we soon ascended the sandhills, where the whole character of the
landscape is altered; for while the dúm-bush almost ceases, the rétem,
_Spartium monospermum_, is the most common botanical ornament of the
ground where the cultivation of the fields has left a free spot, whilst
fine specimens of the mimosa break the monotony of the fields. Having
passed several clusters of cottages forming an extensive district, I saw
to the right an open space descending towards a green sheet of water,
filling a sort of valley or hollow, where a short time afterwards, when
the summer harvest is over, the peculiar sort of sorghum called másakwá
is sown. Being shaded by some fine acacias, the spot was very inviting,
and, feeling already tired, sick and weak as I was, though after a
journey of only two hours, I determined to remain there during the heat
of the day. I had scarcely stretched myself on the ground, when a man
brought me word that a messenger, sent by Ghét, the chief of the Welád
Slimán, had passed by with the news that this wandering and marauding
tribe had left Búrgu and returned to Kánem. This was very unpleasant
news, as, from all that I had heard, it appeared to me that Búrgu must
be an interesting country, at least as much so as Ásben or Aïr, being
favoured by deep valleys and ravines, and living sources of fine water,
and producing, besides great quantities of excellent dates, even grapes
and figs, at least in some favoured spots.
The morning had been rather dull, but before noon the sun shone forth,
and our situation on the sloping ground of the high country, overlooking
a great extent of land in the rich dress of vegetable life, was very
pleasant. There was scarcely a bare spot: all was green, except that the
ears of the millet and sorghum were almost ripe, and began to assume a
yellowish-brown tint; but how different is the height of the stalks, the
very largest of which scarcely exceeds fifteen feet, from those I saw
afterwards on my return from Timbúktu, in the rich valleys of Kébbi.
Several Kánembú were passing by and enlivened the scenery.
When the heat of the sun began to abate I set my little caravan once
more in motion, and passed on through the level country, which in the
simplicity of my mind I thought beautiful, and which I greatly enjoyed.
After about an hour’s march, we passed a large pond or pool, situated to
the left of the road, and formed by the rains, bordered by a set of
trees of the acacia tribe, and enlivened by a large herd of fine cattle.
Towards evening, after some trouble, we found a path leading through the
fields into the interior of a little village, called Alairúk, almost
hidden behind the high stalks of millet. Our reception was rather cold,
such as a stranger may expect to find in all the villages situated near
a capital, the inhabitants of which are continually pestered by calls
upon their hospitality. But, carrying my little residence and all the
comforts I wanted with me, I cared little about their treatment; and my
tent was soon pitched in a separate courtyard. But all my enjoyment was
destroyed by a quarrel which arose between my horseman and the master of
the dwelling, who would not allow him to put his horse where he wished:
my horseman had even the insolence to beat the man who had received us
into his house. This is the way in which affairs are managed in these
countries.
[Sidenote: Sunday, September 14th.]
After a refreshing night I started a little later than on the day
previous, winding along a narrow path through the fields, where, besides
sorghum, karás (_Hibiscus esculentus_) is cultivated, which is an
essential thing for preparing the soups of the natives, in districts
where the leaves of the kúka, or monkey-bread-tree, and of the hajilíj,
or _Balanites_, are wanting; for though the town of Kúkawa has received
its name from the circumstance that a young tree of this species was
found on the spot where the sheikh Mohammed el Kánemi, the father of the
ruling sultan, laid the first foundation of the present town,
nevertheless scarcely any kúka is seen for several miles round Kúkawa.
The sky was cloudy, and the country became less interesting than the day
before. We met a small troop of native traders, with dried fish, which
forms a great article of commerce throughout Bórnu; for though the
Kanúri people at present are almost deprived of the dominion, and even
the use, of the fine sheet of water which spreads out in the midst of
their territories, the fish, to which their forefathers have given the
name of food (bú-ni, from bú, to eat), has remained a necessary article
for making their soups. The fields in this part of the country were not
so well looked after, and were in a more neglected state, but there was
a tolerable variety of trees, though rather scanty. Besides prickly
underwood of talhas, there were principally the hajilíj or bíto
(_Balanites Ægyptiaca_), the selím, the kurna, the serrákh, and the
gherret or _Mimosa Nilotica_. Farther on, a short time before we came to
the village Kalíkágorí, I observed a woman collecting the seeds of an
eatable _Poa_, called “kréb” or “kashá,” of which there are several
species, by swinging a sort of basket through the rich meadow ground.
These species of grasses afford a great deal of food to the inhabitants
of Bórnu, Bagírmi, and Wadáÿ, but more especially to the Arab settlers
in these countries, or the Shúwa; in Bórnu, at least, I have never seen
the black natives make use of this kind of food, while in Bagírmi it
seems to constitute a sort of luxury even with the wealthier classes.
The reader will see in the course of my narrative, that in Mas-eña I
lived principally on this kind of _Poa_. It makes a light palatable
dish, but requires a great deal of butter.
After having entered the forest and passed several small waterpools, we
encamped near one of these, when the heat of the sun began to make
itself felt. This district abounded in mimosas of the species called
gherret, úm-el-barka, or “kingar,” which affords a very excellent wood
for saddles and other purposes, while the coals prepared from it are
used for making powder. My old talkative, but not very energetic
companion Bu-Zéd, was busy in making new pegs for my tent, the very hard
black ground of Bórnu destroying pegs very soon; and in the meantime,
assisted by Hosén ben Hár, gave me a first insight into the numerous
tribes living in Kánem and round the bahar-el-ghazál. The fruits of the
gherret, which in their general appearance are very like those of the
tamarind-tree, are a very important native medicine, especially in cases
of dysentery, and it is most probably to them that I owed my recovery
when attacked by that destructive disease during my second stay in
Sókoto in September, 1854. The same tree is essential for preparing the
water-skins, that most necessary article for crossing the desert. The
kajíji was plentiful in this neighbourhood. The root of this little
plant, which is about the size of a nut, the natives use in the most
extensive way for perfuming themselves with.
Late in the afternoon we continued our journey through the forest, which
was often interrupted by open patches. After having pursued the path for
some miles we quitted it, and travelled in a more easterly direction
through a pleasant hilly country, full of verdure, and affording
pasturage to a great many cattle, for the Kánembú, like the Fúlbe, go
with their herds to a great distance during certain seasons of the year;
and all the cattle from the places about Ngórnu northwards is to be
found in these quarters during the cold season. But not being able to
find water here, we were obliged to try the opposite direction, in order
to look for this element so essential for passing a comfortable night.
At length, late in the evening, traversing a very rugged tract of
country, we reached the temporary encampment, or berí, of a party of
Kánembú with their herds, whilst a larger berí was moving eastward. Here
also we were unable to find water, and even milk was to be got but
sparingly.
[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.]
Before we were ready to move, the whole nomadic encampment broke up; the
cattle going in front, and the men, women, and children following with
their little household on asses. The most essential or only apparatus of
these wandering neatherds are the tall sticks for hanging up the milk to
secure it; the “sákti” or skins for milk and water, the calabashes, and
the kórió. The men are always armed with their long wooden shields, the
“ngáwa fógobe,” and their spears, and some are most fantastically
dressed, as I have described on a former occasion. After having loaded
our camels, and proceeded some distance, we came to the temporary abode
of another large herd, whose guardians at first behaved unfriendly,
forbidding our tasting a drop of their delicious stuff; but they soon
exchanged their haughty manners for the utmost cordiality, when Mʿadi,
an elder brother of Fúgo ʿAli, our friend in Maduwári, recognised me. He
even insisted on my encamping on the spot, and staying the day with him,
and it was with difficulty that he allowed me to pursue my march, after
having swallowed as much delicious milk as my stomach would bear.
Further on we joined the main road, and found to the left of it a
handsome pool of muddy water, and filled two skins with it. Certainly
there is nothing worse for a European than this stagnant dirty water;
but during the rainy season, and for a short time afterwards, he is
rarely able to get any other.
Soon after I had another specimen of the treatment to which the natives
are continually exposed from the king’s servants in these countries;
for, meeting a large herd of fine sheep, my horseguard managed to lay
hold of the fattest specimen of the whole herd, notwithstanding the
cries of the shepherd, whom I in vain endeavoured to console by offering
him the price of the animal. During the heat of the day, when we were
encamped under the scanty shade of a few gáwo, my people slaughtered the
sheep; but, as in general, I only tasted a little of the liver. The
shade was so scanty, and the sun so hot, that I felt very weak in the
afternoon when we went on a little.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, Sept. 16th.]
I felt tolerably strong. Soon after we had started, we met a great many
horses which had been sent here for pasturage, and then encountered
another fish kafla. My horseman wanted me all at once to proceed to the
town of Yó, from whence he was to return; and he continued on without
stopping, although I very soon felt tired, and wanted to make a halt.
The country, at the distance of some miles south from the komádugu, is
rather monotonous and barren, and the large tamarind-tree behind the
town of Yó is seen from such a distance that the traveller, having the
same conspicuous object before his eyes for such a length of time,
becomes tired out before he reaches it. The dúm-palm is the principal
tree in this flat region, forming detached clusters, while the ground in
general is extremely barren.
Proceeding with my guardian in advance, we at length reached the town,
in front of which there is a little suburb; and being uncertain whether
we should take quarters inside or outside, we entered it. It consisted
of closely-packed streets, was extremely hot, and exhaled such an
offensive smell of dried fish, that it appeared to me a very
disagreeable and intolerable abode. Nevertheless we rode to the house of
the shitíma, or rather, in the full form, Shitíma Yóma (which is the
title the governor bears), a large building of clay. He was just about
taking another wife; and large quantities of corn, intended as provision
for his new household, were heaped up in front of it.[5] Having applied
to his men for quarters, a small courtyard with a large hut was assigned
to us in another part of the town, and we went there; but it was
impossible for me to make myself in any way comfortable in this narrow
space, where a small gáwo afforded very scanty shade. Being almost
suffocated, and feeling very unwell, I mounted my horse again, and
hastened out of the gate, and was very glad to have regained the fresh
air. We then encamped about 600 yards from the town, near a shady
tamarind-tree; and I stretched my feeble limbs on the ground, and fell
into a sort of lethargy for some hours, enjoying a luxurious
tranquillity; I was so fatigued with my morning’s ride, that I thought
with apprehension on what would become of me after my companions had
joined me, when I should be obliged to bear fatigue of a quite different
description.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
YÓ AND THE KOMÁDUGU.
Sepr. 17th. 1851.]
As soon as I felt strong enough to rise from my couch, I walked a few
paces in order to get a sight of the river or “komádugu.” It was at
present a fine sheet of water, the bed being entirely full,
“tsimbúllena,” and the stream running towards the Tsád with a strong
current; indeed, I then scarcely suspected that on another occasion I
should encamp for several days in the dry bed of this river, which,
notwithstanding the clear and undoubted statements of the members of the
former expedition with regard to its real character, had been made by
Capt. W. Allen to carry the superfluous waters of the Tsád into the
Kwára. The shores of the komádugu near this place are quite picturesque,
being bordered by splendid tamarind-trees, and “kínzim,” or dúm-palms,
besides fine specimens of the acacia tribe on the northern shore. At the
foot of the tamarind-trees a very good kind of cotton is grown, while
lower down, just at this season of the year, wheat is produced by
irrigating regularly laid-out grounds by way of the shadúf or “lámbuna.”
Cotton and small quantities of wheat are the only produce of this
region, besides fish and the fruit of the _Cucifera_ or dúm-palm, which
forms an essential condiment for the “kunú,” a kind of soup made of
Negro millet; for the place is entirely destitute of any other
_Cerealia_, and millet and sorghum are grown only to a small extent.
Cattle also are very scarce in Yó; and very little milk is to be
procured. Fish is the principal food of the inhabitants, of which there
are several very palatable species in the river, especially one of
considerable size, from eighteen to twenty inches long, with a very
small mouth, resembling the mullet.
I saw also a specimen of the electric fish, about ten inches long, and
very fat, which was able to numb the arm of a man for several minutes.
It was of an ashy colour on the back, while the belly was quite white;
the tail and the hind fins were red. Mr. Overweg made a slight sketch of
one.
During the night a heavy gale arose, and we had to fasten the ropes
attached to the top of the pole; but the storm passed by, and there was
not a drop of rain; indeed the rainy season, with regard to Bórnu, had
fairly gone by.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, Sept. 17th.]
Enjoyed in the morning the scenery and the fresh air of the river. Men
were coming to bathe, women fetching water, and passengers and small
parties were crossing the river, swimming across with their clothes upon
their heads, or sitting on a yoke of calabashes with the water up to
their middle. A kafla or “karábka” of Tébu people from Kánem had arrived
the day before, and were encamped on the other side of the river, being
eager to cross; but they were not allowed to do so till they had
obtained permission; for, during several months, this river or valley
forms annually a sort of quarantine line, whilst, during the other
portion of the year, small caravans, at least, go to and fro at their
pleasure.
The only boat upon the water was a mákara, formed by several yokes of
calabashes, and of that frail character described by me in another part
of this work, in which we ourselves were to cross the river.
Unfortunately it was not possible to enjoy quietly and decently the
beautiful shade of the splendid tamarind-trees, on account of the number
of waterfowl and pelicans which reside in their branches.
On removing some of my luggage, I found that the white ants were busy
destroying, as fast as possible, my leather bags and mats; and we were
accordingly obliged to remove every thing, and to place layers of
branches underneath. There are great numbers of ants hereabouts; but
only moderately sized ant-hills are seen; nothing like the grand
structures which I afterwards saw in Bagírmi.
[Sidenote: Thursday, Sept. 18th.]
About two hours after midnight Mr. Overweg arrived, accompanied by one
of the most conspicuous of the Welád Slimán, of the name of Khálef-
Allah, announcing the approach of our little troop; which did not,
however, make its appearance until ten o’clock in the morning, when the
most courageous and best mounted of them galloped up to my tent in
pairs, brandishing their guns. There were twenty-five horsemen, about a
dozen men mounted upon camels, and seven or eight on foot, besides
children. They dismounted a little to the east of our tents, and formed
quite an animated encampment; though of course quarrels were sure to
break out soon.
Feeling a little stronger, I mounted with my fellow-traveller in the
afternoon, in order to make a small excursion along the southern shore
of the river, in a westerly direction. The river, in general, runs from
west to east; but here, above the town, it makes considerable windings,
and the shore is not so high as at the ford. The vegetation was
beautiful; large tamarind trees forming a dense shade above, whilst the
ground was covered with a great variety of plants and herbs just in
flower. On the low promontories of the shore were several small fishing
villages, consisting of rather low and light huts made of mats, and
surrounded by poles for drying the fish, a great many of which,
principally of the mullet kind, were just suspended for that purpose.
Having enjoyed the aspect of the quiet river-scenery for some time, we
returned round the south side of the town. The ground here is hilly; but
I think the hills, though at present covered with verdure, are nothing
more than mounds of rubbish formed in the course of time round the town,
which appears to have been formerly of greater extent.
[Sidenote: Friday, Sept. 19th.]
Overweg and I, accompanied by Khálef-Allah and a guide, made an
excursion down the river, in order, if possible, to reach its mouth; but
the experiment proved that there is no path on the southern shore, the
track following the northern bank: for on that side, not far from the
mouth, lies a considerable Kánembú place called Bóso, though, in the
present weak state of the Bórnu kingdom, much exposed to the incursions
of the Tawárek. Having penetrated as far as a village, or rather a
walled town, named Fátse, the walls of which are in a decayed state, and
the population reduced to a dozen families, we were obliged to give up
our intended survey of the river. As for myself, I was scarcely able to
make any long excursion; for, on attempting to mount my horse again, I
fainted, and fell senseless to the ground, to the great consternation of
my companions, who felt convinced my end was approaching. We therefore
returned to our encampment. In the evening I had a severe attack of
fever.[6]
[Sidenote: Saturday, Sept. 20th.]
It had been determined the day before that we should cross the river to-
day, and the governor’s permission had been obtained; but as the
vizier’s messenger had not yet arrived, we decided upon waiting another
day. Feeling a little better, I made a rough sketch of the town, with
the dúm-palms around it, and prepared myself, as well as I was able, for
the fatiguing march before me. We had a good specimen to-day of the set
of robbers and freebooters we had associated with in order to carry out
the objects of the mission. The small Tébu caravan, which I mentioned
above as having arrived from Kánem, and which had brought the news that
the people of Wadáy had made an alliance with all the tribes hostile to
the Welád Slimán, in order to destroy the latter, had not been allowed
to cross the river until to-day. They were harmless people, carrying
very little luggage (chiefly dates) upon a small number of oxen; but as
soon as they had crossed, our companions held a council, and, the
opinion of the most violent having gained the upper hand, they fell upon
the poor Tébu, or Kréda, as they call them, and took away all their
dates by force. The skins were then divided; and the greater part of
them had already been consumed or carried away, when an old Arab
arrived, and, upbraiding his companions with their mean conduct,
persuaded them to collect what remained, or that could be found, and
restore it to the owners. In the evening the vizier’s messenger arrived,
and the crossing of the river was definitively fixed for the next day.
[Sidenote: Monday, Sept. 22nd.]
Rose early, in order to get over in time, there being no other means of
crossing than two mákara, each consisting of three yokes of calabashes.
The camels, as is always the case, being the most difficult to manage,
had to cross first; and after much trouble and many narrow escapes
(owing principally to the unevenness of the bottom of the valley, the
water-channel having formed a deep hollow—at present from ten to eleven
feet deep—near the southern shore, while in the middle the bottom rises
considerably, leaving a depth of only six or seven feet) they all got
safely over, and were left to indulge in the foliage of the beautiful
mimosas which embellish the northern border of the river. The horses
followed next, and lastly we ourselves with the luggage.
About nine o’clock in the morning I found myself upon the river on my
three-yoked “mákara,” gliding through the stream in a rather irregular
style of motion, according as the frail ferry-boat was drawn or pushed
by the two black swimmers yoked to it. It was a beautiful day, and the
scenery highly interesting; but, having been exposed to the sun all the
morning, I was glad to find a little shade. When all the party had
successively landed, and the heat of the day had abated, we loaded our
camels and commenced our march. We were now left entirely to the
security and protection which our own arms might afford us; for all the
country to the north of the komádugu has become the domain of
freebooters, and though nominally sheikh ʿOmár’s dominion stretches as
far as Berí, and even beyond that place, nevertheless his name is not
respected here, except where supported by arms.
The country through which we were passing bore the same character as
that for some miles round the capital; a very stiff, black soil, clothed
with short grass and a few trees far between. Having encountered a flock
of sheep, our friends gave chase; and after they had laid hold of three
fat rams, we decided to encamp.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, Sept. 23rd.]