[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
MÚSGU CHIEF.]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA:
BEING A
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION
UNDERTAKEN
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H.B.M.’S GOVERNMENT,
IN THE YEARS
1849-1855.
BY
HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES,
_&c. &c._
IN FIVE VOLUMES.
VOL. III.
LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.
1857.
_The right of translation is reserved._
LONDON:
Printed by SPOTTISWOODE & CO.
New-street Square.
CONTENTS
OF
THE THIRD VOLUME.
* * * * *
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Page
Rainy Season in Kúkawa 1
Supplies. — The Herbage. — Tropical Rains. — Mr. Vogel’s Statement. —
The Winged Ant. — Various Kinds of Cultivation. — Intended Excursion to
Kánem. — Mr. Overweg’s Memoranda. — Political Situation of Bórnu. — The
Turks in Central Africa. — Sókoto and Wádáy. — The Festival. —
Ceremonies of Festivity. — Dependent Situation. — My Horse.
CHAP. XXXIX.
Expedition to Kánem 23
Money-matters settled. — A Repentant Servant. — Delights of Open
Encampment. — Dawerghú. — Treatment by Slaves. — Variety of Trees. —
Scarcity of Water. — The Town of Yó. — Marriage Customs. — Character of
the Country. — Arrival of Mr. Overweg. — Banks of the River. —
Character of our Freebooting Companions. — Crossing the River. — Town
of Báruwa. — View of the Tsád. — Native Salt. — Desolate Country. —
Ninety-six Elephants. — Another Scene of Plunder. — Arrival at Berí. —
Importance of Berí. — Fresh-water Lakes and Natron. — Submerged in a
Bog. — A Large Snake. — The Valleys and Vales of Kánem. — Arrival at
the Arab Camp.
CHAP. XL.
The Horde of the Welád Slimán 61
The Welád Slimán. — Their Power. — Slaughter of the Welád Slimán. —
Interview with Sheikh Ghét. — Interview with ʿOmár. — Specimen of
Predatory Life. — Runaway Female Slave. — Rich Vales. — Large
Desertion. — A Jewish Adventurer. — Musical Box. — False Alarm.
CHAP. XLI.
Shitáti. — The Eastern, more favoured, Valleys of Kánem 81
Bír el Ftáim. — The Fugábú. — Projects frustrated. — Kárká and the
Keghámma. — Elephant’s Track. — Bóro. — Bérendé. — Towáder. — Beautiful
Vale. — Preparations for Attack. — Left behind. — Regularly-formed
Valley. — Hénderi Síggesí. — Attack by the Natives. — Much Anxiety. —
Join our Friends. — Encampment at Áláli Ádia. — Visited by the
Keghámma. — Camp taken. — Restless Night. — Fine Vale Tákulum. — Vales
of Shitáti. — Return to the principal Camp. — Wádáy Horsemen. — Set out
on return to Kúkawa. — Departure from Kánem. — Alarms. — The Komádugu
again. — Return to Kúkawa.
CHAP. XLII.
Warlike Preparations against Mándará 118
Set out on another Expedition. — The Camp, or Ngáufate. — The _Chef
de Police_ Lamíno. — Army in motion. — Lamíno again. — Major
Denham’s Adventure. — The Town of Márte. — Ála. — Encampment at Díkowa.
— Firearms and Civilization. — Slavery and Slave-trade. — The Shúwa. —
The Interior of Díkowa. — Industry. — Banks of the Yálowe. — Cotton
Plantations. — The Camp Market. — Friendly Services. — Important
Information. — Háj Edrís.
CHAP. XLIII.
The Border-region of the Shúwa 149
News from Mándará. — Áfagé. — Thieves forced to Fight. — The Sweet
Sorghum. — Variations of Temperature. — Shallow Watercourses. —
Subjection of Mándará. — Extensive Rice-fields. — Hard Ground. —
Elephants. — The Court of Ádishén. — The Army on the March. — The
Súmmoli. — The Army badly off. — Entering the Músgu Country. — Industry
pillaged. — Native Architecture. — Affinity of the Músgu. — Their chief
Places. — The Adventurous Chieftain. — Ádishén. — Christmas Events.
CHAP. XLIV.
The Country of the Shallow Rivers. — Water-parting between
the Rivers Bénuwé and Shárí 186
The Deléb-palm. — New Features. — Worship of Ancestors. — Cut off from
the Army. — Spoil and Slaughter. — Alarm and Cowardice. — Músgu
Weapons. — The Túburi not attacked. — Ngáljam of Démmo. — Destruction.
— New Year. — Pagan Chiefs and Priests. — Fine Landscape. — The River
of Logón. — Singular Water-combat. — The Túburi and their Lake. — The
Swampy Character of the Ngáljam. — The River again. —
Water-communication. — Plucky Pagans. — Balls and Stones. —
Consequences of Slave-hunts. — Penetrating Southward.
CHAP. XLV.
Return to Bórnu 229
Another Alarm. — Policy of Negroland. — Cattle Indigenous or Imported.
— Another District Plundered. — The Músgu Slave. — Narrow Escape. —
Attack by Bees. — African Netherlands. — Miseries of Slave-hunts. —
Barren Country. — Residence of Kábishmé. — Native Architecture. —
Ground-plan of a Dwelling. — Amount of Booty. — Wáza. — Encampment at
Wáza. — Re-arrival at Kúkawa.
CHAP. XLVI.
Setting out for Bagírmi. — The Country of Kótokó 260
Mestréma the Consul of Bagírmi. — Setting out for Bagírmi. — Remains
of Pagan Rites. — _Poa Abyssinica_. — The Water. — Arborescent
_Euphorbiacea_ — Scarcity of Water. — Ngála; Buildings; Language.
— Rén. — Áfadé. — Historical View of Kótokó. — Former towns of the Soy.
CHAP. XLVII.
Province of Logón. — Logón Bírni 281
Kála, New Character. — Húlluf. — The Deléb-palm again. — Reception in
the Kárnak. — The Ibálaghwán. — Palace of the Sultan. — Sultan Ýsuf. —
The River. — The Water-king. — Embarking on the River. — Names of
Rivers. — Bathing in the River. — Historical Account of Logón. — Date
of their Islám. — Government. — Food. — Manufactures. — Language.
CHAP. XLVIII.
The two Rivers. — Entrance into Bagírmi 310
Crossing the River. — Animated Scenery. — Political State of the
Country. — The Real Shárí. — River Scenery. — Sent back by the
Ferrymen. — Intrigues and Fears. — Trying another Ford. — The Shárí at
Mélé. — Character of the Natives. — Entering a Country by Stealth. —
Overtaken. — Residence at Mélé. — Ordered to wait at Búgomán. —
Character of the River. — Mustáfají. — The Shárí again. — Sent back
from Búgomán. — Búgarí. — Mókorí. — Arrival at Bákadá. — Háj Bú-Bakr
Sadík. — Decay of Bagírmi. — Destructive Insects. — Character of
Bákadá. — The Natives. — Intercourse. — Trees of Negroland. — Return of
Messenger.
CHAP. XLIX.
Endeavour to leave the Country. — Arrested. — Final Entrance
into Más-eñá. — Its characteristic Features 351
Stay in Mókorí. — Importance of Needles. — Want of Water. — Leaving the
right Track. — A Night in the Wilderness. — Kókoroché. — Mélé again. —
Laid in Irons. — Released. — Return Eastward. — Arrival at the Capital.
— The Lieutenant-governor. — Háj Áhmed. — The Fáki Sámbo. — Mohammedan
Learning. — The Fáki Íbrahím. — Suspected of being a Rain-maker. —
Superstition of the Natives. — Becoming Retail Dealer. — The Market. —
Articles of Commerce. — Difficulties of a Journey into Wádáy. — Market
of Ábú-Gher.
CHAP. L.
Description of the Town. — Arrival of the Sultan. — Final
Departure 388
General Character of Más-eñá. — The Palace. — The Bedá. — Patients. —
The other Sex. — Occurrences of Daily Life. — Battle with Ants. —
Arrival of the Sultan. — The Sultan’s Retinue. — His Entry into the
Town. — Despatches and Letters. — A Serious Visit. — Escape by
Frankness. — Audience with the Sultan. — Asked for a Cannon. —
Pardoning Enemies. — Death of Máina Beládemí. — Present from the
Sultan. — Reward of Friends. — Departure from the Capital.
CHAP. LI.
Historical Survey of Bagírmi. — General Condition of the Country
and its Inhabitants 425
Scarcity of Information. — The Dájó. — The Kingdom of Gaoga. —
Introduction of Islám. — Early History of Bagírmi. — Foundation of
Más-eñá. — The Kings ʿAbd-Allah and Mohammed. — Restless Reign of
ʿOthmán. — Subjection to Wádáy. — Struggle with Bórnu. — The Present
King ʿAbd el Káder. — His Policy. — General Character of Bagírmi. —
Mountain Gére. — No Snow on Mountains. — Edible _Poa_. — Vegetable
Produce. — Arms. — Language. — Dress. — Government. — Tribute. — Power
of the Sultan.
CHAP. LII.
Home-journey to Kúkawa. — Death of Mr. Overweg 456
Pleasant Starting. — Bákadá Hospitality. — Ásu and the Shárí. — The
Shúwa of Mókoró. — River of Logón. — Difficulty of Proceeding without
Delay. — Áfadé. — Crossing Rivers. — Bogheówa. — Meeting with Mr.
Overweg. — Treaty signed. — Money-matters. — Rising of the Komádugu. —
Mr. Overweg’s last Excursion. — Death of Mr. Overweg. — His Grave on
the Shore of the Tsád.
* * * * *
APPENDIX I.
Account of the Eastern Parts of Kánem, from Native Information 481
Mʿawó and its Neighbourhood 483
I. — Itinerary from Mʿawó to Tághghel, directly South 484
II. — From Berí to Tághghel, going along the Border of the
Lake 486
III. — The Bahr el Ghazal, called “Burrum” by the Kánembú,
and “Féde” by the Tebu Gurʿaán 487
Mondó, Egé, Búrku, Tribes of the Tebu or Tedá 489
APPENDIX II.
Geographical Details contained in “the Diván,” or Account given
by the Imám Áhmed ben Sofíya of the Expeditions of the King
Edrís Alawóma from Bórnu to Kánem 498
First Expedition 498
Second Expedition 507
Third Expedition 508
Fourth Expedition 511
Fifth Expedition 517
Last Expedition to the Borders of Kánem; Treaty 519
APPENDIX III.
Account of the various Detachments of Cavalry composing the
Bórnu Army in the Expedition to Músgu 521
APPENDIX IV.
Towns and Villages of the Province of Logón or Lógone 525
APPENDIX V.
Copy of a Despatch from Lord Palmerston 526
APPENDIX VI.
Historical Sketch of Wádáy 528
APPENDIX VII.
Ethnographical Account of Wádáy 539
APPENDIX VIII.
Government of Wádáy 554
APPENDIX IX.
Collection of Itineraries for fixing the Topography of Wádáy,
and those parts of Bagírmi which I did not visit myself 563
I. — Roads from Más-eñá to Wára 563
II. — Routes in the Interior of Wádáy 570
III. — Routes in the Interior of Bagírmi 588
APPENDIX X.
Fragments of a Meteorological Register 617
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN
THE THIRD VOLUME.
* * * * *
MAPS.
Page
IX. Journey to Kánem 23
X. Expedition to Músgu 118
XI. Kúkawa to Más-eñá 260
PLATES.
1. Músgu Chief _Frontispiece_
2. Yó and the Komádugu _to face_ 35
3. Herd of Elephants near the Tsád „ 48
4. Bír El Ftáim „ 82
5. Hénderi Síggesí „ 96
6. Kánembú Chief „ 116
7. Landscape of the Músgu Country „ 190
8. Encampment in Forest „ 196
9. Shallow Water (Ngáljam) at Démmo „ 202
10. Landscape in Wúliya „ 232
11. Bárëa and the Deléb Palm „ 236
12. Interior of Dwelling „ 250
13. Encampment at Wáza „ 256
14. Logón Bírni „ 310
15. The Shárí at Mélé „ 319
16. Más-eñá, Return of the Sultan from the Expedition „ 405
WOODCUTS.
Granary 176
Harpoon 237
Ornamented Granary 249
Ground-plan of Building 250
Ground-plan of Palace in Logón Bírni 292
Ground-plan of Town of Más-eñá _to face_ 388
ERRATA, VOL III.
Page 203., line 6. read “south-_west_” instead of “south-east.”
„ 240., „ 5. from below, “_southerly_” instead of “westerly.”
„ 298., „ 16. “wórzi” _or_ “berdí” instead of “wórzi berdí.”
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
RAINY SEASON IN KÚKAWA.
I had left Kúkawa on my journey to Ádamáwa in the best state of health,
but had brought back from that excursion the germs of disease; and
residence in the town, at least at this period of the year, was not
likely to improve my condition. It would certainly have been better for
me, had I been able to retire to some more healthy spot; but trivial
though urgent business obliged me to remain in Kúkawa.
It was necessary to sell the merchandize which had at length arrived, in
order to keep the mission in some way or other afloat, by paying the
most urgent debts and providing the necessary means for further
exploration. There was merchandize to the value of one hundred pounds
sterling; but, as I was obliged to sell the things at a reduced rate for
ready money, the loss was considerable; for all business in these
countries is transacted on two or three months’ credit, and, after all,
payment is made, not in ready money, but chiefly in slaves. It is no
doubt very necessary for a traveller to be provided with those various
articles which form the presents to be made to the chiefs, and which are
in many districts required for bartering; but he ought not to depend
upon their sale for the supply of his wants. Altogether it is difficult
to carry on trade in conjunction with extensive geographical research,
although a person sitting quietly down in a place, and entering into
close relations with the natives, might collect a great deal of
interesting information, which would probably escape the notice of the
roving traveller, whose purpose is rather to explore distant regions.
Besides, I was obliged to make numerous presents to my friends, in order
to keep them in good humour, and had very often not only to provide
dresses for themselves and their wives, but even for their domestic
retainers; so that, all things considered, the supply of one hundred
pounds’ worth of merchandize could not last very long.
I have remarked that, when I re-entered Kúkawa, the cultivation of the
ground had not yet begun; indeed, the whole country was so parched, that
it became even a matter of perplexity to find sufficient fodder for the
horses; for the whole stock of dry herbage was consumed, and of young
herbage none was to be had.
It is stated in my memoranda, that on the 5th of August I paid twelve
rotl for a “kéla kajímbe,” or large bundle of dry grass; an enormous
price in this country, and sufficient to maintain a whole family for
several days; but that was the most unfavourable moment, for in a few
days fresh herbage sprang up and made good all deficiencies. While
speaking on this subject, I may also mention, that the herbage of
Kúkawa, being full of “ngíbbi,” or _Pennisetum distichum_, horses
brought from other countries generally fare but badly on it, as they are
reluctant to fill their mouths with its small prickles.
Rain was very plentiful this year, 1851, and I am sure would, if
measured, have far exceeded the quantity found by Mr. Vogel in 1854.
Indeed, there were twelve very considerable falls of rain during the
month of August alone, which together probably exceeded thirty inches.
It must be borne in mind, moreover, that the fall of rain in Kúkawa does
not constitute the rule for the region, but is quite exceptional, owing
to the entire absence of trees and of heights in the neighbourhood.
Hence, the statement of Mr. Vogel in one of his letters[1], that the
line of tropical rains only begins south of Kúkawa, must be understood
with some reserve; for if he had measured the rain in the woody country
north of that capital, between Dáwerghú and Kalíluwá, he would, in my
opinion, have obtained a very different result. It is evident that all
depends upon the meaning of the expression, tropical rain. If it imply a
very copious fall of rain, Kúkawa certainly does not lie within the
limit of tropical rain; but if we are to understand by it the regularly
returning annual fall of rain, produced by the ascending currents of
heated air, it certainly does.[2] There was a very heavy fall of rain on
the night of the 3rd of August, which not only swamped our courtyard,
but changed my room, which lay half a foot lower, and was protected only
by a low threshold, into a little lake, aggravating my feverish state
very considerably, and spoiling most of my things.
On the 5th of August rain fell for the first time unaccompanied by a
storm, though the rainy season in general sets in with dreadful
tornadoes. The watery element disturbed the luxurious existence of the
“kanám galgálma,” the large termites, which had fed on our sugar and
other supplies, and on the 6th they all of a sudden disappeared from the
ground, and filled the air as short-lived winged creatures, in which
state they are called by the people “tsútsu,” or “dsúdsu,” and, when
fried, are used as food. Their tenure of life is so precarious, and they
seem to be so weak, that they become very troublesome, as they fall in
every direction upon man and his food. Of each swarm of these insects
only one couple seems destined to survive; all the rest die a violent
death.
The town now began to present quite a different appearance; but while it
was agreeable to see the dryness relieved, and succulent grass and fresh
crops springing up all around, and supplanting the dull uniformity of
the _Asclepias gigantea_, on the other hand, the extensive waterpools
formed everywhere in the concavities of the ground, were by no means
conducive to health, more especially as those places were depositories
of all sorts of offal, and of putrefying carcasses of many kinds. The
consequence was that my health, instead of improving, became worse,
although I struggled hard, and as often as possible rode out on
horseback. All the people were now busy in the labours of the field,
although cultivation in the neighbourhood of the town is not of a
uniform, but of a varied character; and a large portion of the ground,
consisting of “ánge” and “fírki,” is reserved for the culture of the
masákuwá (_Holcus cernuus_), or winter-corn, with its variety the
kérirám.
On the 8th of August the neighbourhood presented a very animated
spectacle, the crownlands in Gawánge being then cultivated by a great
number of people, working to the sound of a drum. Their labours
continued till the 15th; on which day Mr. Overweg had the honour of
presenting his Búdduma friends to the sheikh of Bórnu. All nature was
now cheerful; the trees were putting forth fresh leaves, and the young
birds began to fledge. I took great delight in observing the little
household of a family of the feathered tribe; there were five young
ones, the oldest and most daring of which began to try his strength on
the 12th of August, while the other four set out together on the 14th.
Marriages are not frequent about this time, on account of the dearness
of corn; but matches are generally made after the harvest has been got
in, and while corn is cheap. I shall speak in another place of the
marriage ceremonies of this country.
On the 5th of September we obtained the first specimen of new “argúm
móro,” white Negro millet, which is very pleasant to the taste when
roasted on the fire; but this is regarded as a rarity, and new corn is
not brought into the market in any great quantities before the end of
November, or rather the beginning of December, when all the corn, which
has been for a long time lying in the fields in conical heaps, called
“búgga,” is threshed out.
My friend, the vizier, whose solicitude for my health I cannot
acknowledge too warmly, was very anxious that I should not stay in the
town during the rainy season; and knowing that one of our principal
objects was to investigate the eastern shore of lake Tsád, sent me word,
on the 11th of August, that I might now view the bahár el ghazál, an
undertaking which, as I have already mentioned, he had at first
represented as impossible. The news from Kánem, however, was now
favourable; but as I shall speak in another place of the political state
of this distracted country, and of the continual struggle between Bórnu
and Wadáÿ, I need only mention here that the Welád Slimán, who had
become a mercenary band attached to the vizier, had been successful
during their last expedition, and were reported on the very day of my
return from Ádamáwa to have made a prize of 150 horses and a great many
camels, which, however, was a great exaggeration.
We were well acquainted with the character of these people, who are
certainly the most lawless robbers in the world; but as it was the
express wish of the British government that we should endeavour to
explore the regions bordering on the lake, there was no course open to
us, but to unite our pursuits with theirs; besides, they were prepared
in some measure for such a union, for, while they inhabited the grassy
lands round the great Syrtis, they had come into frequent contact with
the English. We had no choice, for all the districts to the north-east
and east of the Tsád were at present in a certain degree dependent on
Wadáÿ, then at war with Bórnu, and we were told at the commencement that
we might go anywhere except to Wadáÿ. Instead of fighting it out with
his own people, which certainly would have been the most honourable
course, the vizier had ventured to make use of the remnant of the
warlike, and at present homeless, tribe of the Welád Slimán, in the
attempt to recover the eastern districts of Kánem from his eastern
rival; or at least to prevent the latter from obtaining a sure footing
in them; for this object he had made a sort of treaty with these Arabs,
undertaking to supply them with horses, muskets, powder and shot. Thus,
in order to visit those inhospitable regions, which had attracted a
great deal of attention in Europe, we were obliged to embrace this
opportunity. Under these circumstances, on the 16th of August, I sent
the vizier word that I was ready to join the Welád Slimán in Búrgu;
whereupon he expressed a wish that Mr. Overweg might likewise accompany
us; the stay in Kúkawa during the rainy season being very unhealthy.
Mr. Overweg had returned on the 9th to Maduwári from his interesting
voyage on the Tsád, of which everyone will deeply regret that he himself
was not able to give a full account.[3] Traversing that shallow basin in
the English boat, which we had carried all the way through the unbounded
sandy wastes and the rocky wildernesses of the desert, he had visited a
great part of the islands, which are dispersed over its surface, and
which, sometimes reduced to narrow sandy downs, at others expanding to
wide grassy lowlands, sustain a population in their peculiar national
independence, the remnant of a great nation which was exterminated by
the Kanúri. It was a little world of its own with which he had thus come
into contact, and into which we might hope to obtain by degrees a better
insight. He enjoyed excellent health, far better than when I saw him
before, on his first rejoining me in Kúkawa; and as he was well aware of
the strong reasons which our friend the vizier had for wishing us not to
stay in the swampy lowlands round the capital during the latter part of
the rainy season, he agreed to join me on this adventurous expedition to
the north-east.
Those regions had, from the very beginning of our setting out from
Múrzuk, attracted Mr. Overweg’s attention, and while as yet unacquainted
with the immense difficulties that attend travelling in these
inhospitable tracts, he had indulged in the hope of being able, at some
future time, to ramble about with our young Tébu lad, Mohammed el
Gatróni, among the fertile and picturesque valleys of Búrgu and Wajánga.
For this reason, as well as on account of my debility, which left me,
during the following expedition, the exercise of only a small degree of
my natural energy, it is greatly to be regretted that my unfortunate
companion, who seemed never fully aware that his life was at stake, did
not take into consideration the circumstance that he himself might not
be destined to return home, in order to elaborate his researches. If all
the information which he occasionally collected were joined to mine,
those countries would be far better known than they now are; but instead
of employing his leisure hours in transcribing his memoranda in a form
intelligible to others, he left them all on small scraps of paper,
negligently written with lead pencil, which after the lapse of some time
would become unintelligible even to himself. It is a pity that so much
talent as my companion possessed was not allied with practical habits,
and concentrated upon those subjects which he professed to study.
The political horizon of Negroland during this time was filled with
memorable events, partly of real, partly of fictitious importance.
Whatever advantages Bórnu may derive from its central position, it owes
to it also the risk of being involved in perpetual struggles with one or
other of the surrounding countries. And hence it is that, under a weak
government, this empire cannot stand for any length of time; it must go
on conquering and extending its dominion over adjacent territories, or
it will soon be overpowered. Towards the north is the empire of the
Turks, weak and crumbling in its centre, but always grasping with its
outlying members, and threatening to lay hold of what is around: towards
the north-west, the Tawárek, not forming a very formidable united power,
but always ready to pounce upon their prey whenever opportunity offers:
towards the west, the empire of Sókoto, great in extent, but weak beyond
description in the unsettled state of its loosely connected provinces,
and from the unenergetic government of a peacefully disposed prince; for
while one provincial governor was just then spreading around him the
flames of sedition and revolt, towards the south another vassal of this
same empire was disputing the possession of those regions whence the
supply of slaves is annually obtained: and towards the east, there is an
empire strong in its barbarism, and containing the germs of power,
should it succeed in perfectly uniting those heterogeneous elements of
which it is composed,—I mean Wadáÿ.
With regard to the Turks, the state of affairs at this time was
peculiar. Bórnu, as we have seen in the historical account of that
empire, once embraced the whole region as far as Fezzán,—nay, even the
southern portion of Fezzán itself, and even Wadán; but since the decline
of the empire in the latter half of the last century these limits had
been abandoned, and the communication with the north had, in general,
become extremely unsafe. This state of things is necessarily
disadvantageous to a country which depends for many things on the
supplies conveyed from the north; and the authorities naturally wish
that, since they themselves in their present impotent condition are
unable to afford security to this important communication, somebody else
may do it. Hence it was that, after my arrival in April, when the vizier
was conversing with me about the prospects of a regular commercial
intercourse with the English, he declared that he should be much pleased
if the Turks would occupy Kawár, and more particularly Bílma; and by
building a fort and keeping a garrison near the salt-mines of that
place, exercise some control over the Tawárek of Aïr, and make them
responsible for robberies committed on the Fezzán road. It was in
consequence of this communication that I begged Her Majesty’s government
to enter into communication upon this point with the Porte.
But the matter was of a very delicate nature with regard to Bórnu.
Indeed, it seemed questionable whether the Turks, if once firmly
established in Bílma, would not think fit to exercise some control over
the latter country. Nay, it was rather to be feared that they might try
to obtain there a firm footing, in order to extend their empire; and
when the news arrived in Bórnu that the ambitious Hassan Bashá had
returned to his post as governor of Fezzán, with very ample
instructions, the whole court of Bórnu became alarmed. The effect of
this news upon the disposition of the sheikh and the vizier to enter
into friendly relations with the British government was remarkable. On
the 5th of August they were not able to conceal their fear lest a
numberless host of Englishmen might come into their country, if, by
signing the treaty, access was once allowed them, as proposed by Her
Majesty’s government. For although they were conscious of the poverty of
their country in comparison with Europe, at times they were apt to
forget it. In the afternoon of the 6th the courier arrived, and the same
evening Háj Beshír sent me word that they were ready to sign the treaty;
and afterwards they were very anxious that the English government should
endeavour to prevent the governor of Fezzán from carrying out the
ulterior objects of his ambition. At that time I had assured myself that
a northern road through the desert was not suitable for European
commerce, and that a practicable highroad, leading several hundred miles
into the interior of the continent and passing to the south of Kanó, the
great commercial _entrepôt_ of Central Africa, and only about two
hundred miles in a straight line to the south of Kúkawa, had been found
in the river Bénuwé.
With regard to the empire of Sókoto, there happened at this time a
catastrophe which, while it was an unmistakeable proof of the debility
of that vast agglomeration of provinces, proved at the same time
extremely favourable to Bórnu. For on the 1st of August the news arrived
that Bowári or Bokhári, the exiled governor of Khadéja, who had
conquered the town and killed his brother, had thrown back, with great
loss, an immense army sent against him by ʿAlíyu, the emperor of Sókoto,
under the command of his prime minister, ʿAbdu Gedádo, and composed of
the forces of the provinces of Kanó, Báuchi, Katágum, Mármar, and
Bobéru, when several hundreds were said to have perished in the
komádugu, or the great fiumara of Bórnu. In the spring, while Mr.
Overweg was staying in Góber, the Mariadáwa and Goberáwa had made a very
successful expedition into Zánfara; and the emperor of Sókoto could take
no other revenge upon them, than by sending orders to Kanó that my
friends the Asbenáwa, many of whose brethren had taken part in the
expedition, should be driven out of the town, which order was obeyed;
while only the well-known Kandáke, the same man whom Mr. Richardson, on
his former journey into the desert, has so frequently mentioned, was
admitted into the town through the intercession of the people of
Ghadámes.
The immediate consequence of these circumstances was, that the court of
Bórnu tried to enter into more friendly relations with the Asbenáwa, or
the Tawárek of Asben, with whom at other times they were on unfriendly
terms, and the prisoners whom they had made on the last expedition were
released. The coalition extended as far as Góber; and the most ardent
desire of the vizier was to march straight upon Kanó. To conquer this
great central place of commerce was the great object of this man’s
ambition; but for which he did not possess sufficient energy and self-
command. However, the governor of that place, terrified by the victory
of Bokhári, who was now enabled to carry on his predatory expeditions
into that rich territory without hindrance, distributed sixty bernúses
and three thousand dollars among the Mʿallemín, to induce them to offer
up their prayers to Allah for the public welfare.
We have seen above, that the Bórnu people had given to their relations
with Ádamáwa a hostile character; but from that quarter they had nothing
to fear, the governor of that province being too much occupied by the
affairs of his own country.
I will now say a word about Wadáÿ. That was the quarter to which the
most anxious looks of the Bórnu people were directed. For, seven years
previously, they had been very nearly conquered by them, and had
employed every means to get information of what was going on there. But
from thence also the news was favourable. For although the report of the
death of the Sultan Mohammed Sheríf, in course of time, turned out to be
false, still it was true that the country was plunged into a bloody
civil war with the Abú-Senún, or Kodoyí, and that numbers of
enterprising men had succumbed in the struggle.
The business of the town went on as usual, with the exception of the
ʿaid el fotr, the ngúmerí ashám, the festival following the great annual
fast, which was celebrated in a grand style, not by the nation, which
seemed to take very little interest in it, but by the court. In other
places, like Kanó, the rejoicings seem to be more popular on this
occasion; the children of the butchers or “masufauchi” in that great
emporium of commerce mounting some oxen, fattened for the occasion,
between the horns, and managing them by a rope fastened to the neck, and
another to the hind leg. As for the common people of Bórnu, they
scarcely took any other part in this festivity than by putting on their
best dresses; and it is a general custom in larger establishments that
servants and attendants on this day receive a new shirt.
I also put on my best dress, and mounting my horse, which had recovered
a little from the fatigue of the last journey, though it was not yet fit
for another, proceeded in the morning to the eastern town or “billa
gedíbe,” the great thoroughfare being crowded with men on foot and
horseback, passing to and fro, all dressed in their best. It had been
reported that the sheikh was to say his prayers in the mosque, but we
soon discovered that he was to pray outside the town, as large troops of
horsemen were leaving it through the north gate or “chinna yalábe.” In
order to become aware of the place where the ceremony was going on, I
rode to the vizier’s house and met him just as he came out, mounted on
horseback, and accompanied by a troop of horsemen.
At the same time several cavalcades were seen coming from various
quarters, consisting of the kashéllas, or officers, each with his
squadron, of from a hundred to two hundred horsemen, all in the most
gorgeous attire, particularly the heavy cavalry; the greater part being
dressed in a thick stuffed coat called “degíbbir,” and wearing over it
several tobes of all sorts of colours and designs, and having their
heads covered with the “búge” or casque, made very nearly like those of
our knights in the middle age, but of lighter metal, and ornamented with
most gaudy feathers. Their horses were covered all over with the thick
clothing called “líbbedí,” with various coloured stripes, consisting of
three pieces, and leaving nothing but the feet exposed, the front of the
head being protected and adorned by a metal plate. Others were dressed
in a coat of mail, “síllege,” and the other kind called “komá-komí-
súbe.” The lighter cavalry was only dressed in two or three showy tobes
and small white or coloured caps; but the officers and more favoured
attendants wore bernúses of finer or coarser quality, and generally of
red or yellow colour, slung in a picturesque manner round the upper part
of their body, so that the inner wadding of richly coloured silk was
most exposed to view.[4]
All these dazzling cavalcades, amongst whom some very excellent horses
were seen prancing along, were moving towards the northern gate of the
“billa gedíbe,” while the troop of the sheikh himself, who had been
staying in the western town, was coming from SW. The sight of this
troop, at least from a little distance, as is the case in theatrical
scenery, was really magnificent. The troop was led by a number of
horsemen; then followed the livery slaves with their matchlocks; and
behind them rode the sheikh, dressed as usual in a white bernús, as a
token of his religious character, but wearing round his head a red
shawl. He was followed by four magnificent chargers clothed in líbbedí
of silk of various colours; that of the first horse being striped white
and yellow, that of the second white and brown, that of the third white
and light green, and that of the fourth white and cherry red. This was
certainly the most interesting and conspicuous part of the procession.
Behind the horses followed the four large ʿalam or ensigns of the
sheikh, and the four smaller ones of the musketeers, and then a numerous
body of horsemen.
This cavalcade of the sheikh’s now joined the other troops, and the
whole body proceeded in the direction of Dawerghú to a distance of about
a mile from the town. Here the sheikh’s tent was pitched, consisting of
a very large cupola of considerable dimensions, with blue and white
stripes, and curtains, the one half white and the other red; the
curtains were only half closed. In this tent the sheikh himself, the
vizier, and the first courtiers were praying, while the numerous body of
horsemen and men on foot were grouped around in the most picturesque and
imposing variety.
Meanwhile I made the round of this interesting scene, and endeavoured to
count the various groups. In their numbers I was certainly disappointed,
as I had been led to expect myriads. At the very least, however, there
were 3000 horsemen, and from 6000 to 7000 armed men on foot, the latter
partly with bow and arrow. There were besides a great multitude of
spectators. The ceremony did not last long; and as early as nine o’clock
the ganga summoned all the chiefs to mount, and the dense mass of human
beings began to disperse and range themselves in various groups. They
took their direction round the north-western corner of the east town,
and entered the latter by the western gate; but the crowd was so great
that I chose to forego taking leave of the sheikh, and went slowly back
over the intermediate ground between the two towns in the company of
some very chevaleresque and well-mounted young Arabs from Ben-Gházi, and
posted myself at some distance from the east-gate of the western town,
in order to see the kashéllas, who have their residence in this quarter,
pass by.
There were twelve or thirteen, few of whom had more than one hundred
horsemen, the most conspicuous being Fúgo ʿAli, ʿAli Marghí, ʿAli
Déndal, ʿAli Ladán, Belál, Sálah Kandíl, and Jerma. It was thought
remarkable that no Shúwa had come to this festivity, but I think they
rarely do, although they may sometimes come for the ʿAid-el-kebír, or
the “ngúmerí layábe.” It is rather remarkable that even this smaller
festivity is celebrated here with such _éclat_, while in general in
Mohammedan Negroland only the “láya” is celebrated in this way; perhaps
this is due to Egyptian influence, and the custom is as old at least as
the time of the King Edrís Alawóma.
I had the inexpressible delight of receiving by the courier, who arrived
on the 6th of August, a considerable parcel of letters from Europe,
which assured me as well of the great interest which was generally felt
in our undertaking, although as yet only very little of our first
proceedings had become known, as that we should be enabled to carry out
our enterprise without too many privations. I therefore collected all
the little energy which my sickly state had left me, and concluded the
report of my journey to Ádamáwa, which caused me a great deal of pain,
but which, forwarded on the 8th of August, together with the news of Mr.
Overweg’s successful navigation, produced a great deal of satisfaction
in Europe. Together with the letters and sundry Maltese portfolios, I
had also the pleasure of receiving several numbers of the “Athenæum,”
probably the first which were introduced into Central Africa, and which
gave me great delight.
Altogether our situation in the country was not so bad. We were on the
best and most friendly terms with the rulers: we were not only
tolerated, but even respected by the natives, and we saw an immense
field of interesting and useful labour open to us. There was only one
disagreeable circumstance besides the peculiar nature of the climate;
this was the fact that our means were too small to render us quite
independent of the sheikh and his vizier; for the scanty supplies which
had reached us were not sufficient to provide for our wants, and were
soon gone. We were scarcely able to keep ourselves afloat on our credit,
and to supply our most necessary wants. Mr. Overweg, besides receiving a
very handsome horse from them, had also been obliged to accept at their
hands a number of tobes, which he had made presents of to the chiefs of
the Búdduma, and they looked upon him as almost in their employment. He
lost a great deal of his time in repairing, or rather trying to repair,
their watches and other things. Such services I had declined from the
beginning, and was therefore regarded as less useful; and I had
occasionally to hear it said, “ʿAbd el Kerím faidanse bágo,”—“ʿAbd el
Kerím is of no use whatever;” nevertheless I myself was not quite
independent of their kindness, although I sacrificed all I could in
order to give from time to time a new impulse to their favour by an
occasional present.
The horse which they had first given me had proved incapable of such
fatigue as it had to undergo, and the animal which I had bought before
going to Ádamáwa had been too much knocked up to stand another journey
so soon; and after having bought two other camels, and prepared myself
for another expedition, I was unable, with my present means, to buy a
good horse. Remembering, therefore, what the vizier had told me with
regard to my first horse, I sent him word that he would greatly oblige
me by making me a present of one, and he was kind enough to send me four
animals from which to choose; but as none of these satisfied me, I
rejected them all, intimating very simply that it was impossible, among
four _nags_, “kádara,” to choose one _horse_, “fir.” This hint, after a
little farther explanation, my friend did not fail to understand, and in
the evening of the 7th of September he sent me a horse from his own
stable, which became my faithful and noble companion for the next four
campaigns, and from which I did not part till, after my return from
Timbúktu, in December, 1854, he succumbed to sickness in Kanó.
He was the envy of all the great men, from the Sultan of Bagírmi to the
chiefs of the Tademékket and Awelímmiden near Timbúktu. His colour was a
shade of gray, with beautiful light leopardlike spots, and the Kanúri
were not unanimous with regard to the name which they gave it, some
calling it “shéggará,” while others thought the name “kerí sassarándi”
more suitable to it. In the company of mares, he was incapable of
walking quietly, but kept playing in order to show himself off to
advantage. The Bórnu horses in general are very spirited and fond of
prancing. He was an excellent “kerísa” or marcher, and “doy” or swift in
the extreme, but very often lost his start by his playfulness. Of his
strength, the extent of the journeys which he made with me bears ample
testimony, particularly if the warlike, scientific, and victualling
stores which I used to carry with me are taken into account. He was a
“ngírma,” but not of the largest size. Mr. Overweg’s horse was almost
half a hand higher; but while mine was a lion in agility, my companion’s
horse was not unlike a hippopotamus in plumpness.
With such a horse, I prepared cheerfully for my next expedition, which I
regarded in the light both of an undertaking in the interests of
science, and as a medicinal course for restoring my health, which
threatened to succumb in the unhealthy region of Kúkawa. Besides two
Fezzáni lads, I had taken into my service two Arabs belonging to the
tribe of the Welád Slimán, and whose names were Bú-Zéd and Hasén ben
Hár.
[Footnote 1: Published in Journal of the R. Geogr. Soc. vol. xxv., 1855,
p. 241.]
[Footnote 2: It will perhaps be as well to call to mind the prudent
warning of Col. Sykes, in reference to the observations of Prof. Dove.
“These observations,” he says, “suggest to us the necessity of caution
in generalizing from local facts with regard to temperatures and falls
of rain.”—_Report of the National Association_, 1852, p. 253.]
[Footnote 3: I shall return to the subject of Mr. Overweg’s voyage.]
[Footnote 4: I shall say more on the military department in my narrative
of the expedition to Músgu.]
[Illustration: DR. BARTH’S TRAVELS IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA Sheet No.
9.
JOURNEY TO KÁNEM 11. Sept. To 14. Nov. 1851.
Constructed and drawn by A. Petermann.
Engraved by E. Weller, _Duke Strt. Bloomsbury._
_London, Longman & Co._]
CHAP. XXXIX.
EXPEDITION TO KÁNEM.
[Sidenote: September 11th, 1851.]
Having decided upon leaving the town in advance of the Arabs, in order
to obtain leisure for travelling slowly the first few days, and to
accustom my feeble frame once more to the fatigues of a continual
march, after a rest of forty days in the town, I ordered my people to
get my luggage ready in the morning.
I had plenty of provisions, such as zummíta, dwéda, or vermicelli,
mohámsa, and nákia, a sort of sweetmeat made of rice with butter and
honey; two skins of each quality. All was stowed away with the little
luggage I intended taking with me on this adventurous journey, in two
pairs of large leathern bags or kéwa, which my two camels were to carry.
When all was ready, I went to the vizier, in order to take leave of him
and arrange with my former servant, Mohammed ben Sʿad, to whom I owed
thirty-five dollars. Háj Beshír, as usual, was very kind and amiable;
but as for my former servant, having not a single dollar in cash, I was
obliged to give him a bill upon Fezzán for seventy-five dollars. There
was also a long talk on the subject of the enormous debt due to the
Fezzáni merchant, Mohammed e’ Sfáksi; and as it was not possible to
settle it at once, I was obliged to leave its definite arrangement to
Mr. Overweg.
All this disagreeable business, which is so killing to the best hours
and destroys half the energy of the traveller, had retarded my departure
so long that the sun was just setting when I left the gate of the town.
My little caravan was very incomplete; for my only companion on emerging
from the gate into the high waving fields of Guinea corn, which entirely
concealed the little suburb, was an unfortunate young man, whom I had
not hired at all; my three hired servants having stayed behind, on some
pretext or other. This lad was Mohammed ben Ahmed, a native from Fezzán,
whom I wanted to hire, or rather hired, in Gúmmel, in March last, for
two Spanish dollars a month; but who, having been induced by his
companions in the caravan, with which he had just arrived from the
north, to forego the service of a Christian, had broken his word, and
gone on with the caravan of the people from Sókna, leaving me with only
one useful servant. But he had found sufficient leisure to repent of his
dishonourable conduct; for having been at the verge of the grave in
Kanó, and being reduced to the utmost misery, he came to Kúkawa, begging
my pardon, and entreating my compassion: and, after some expostulation,
I allowed him to stay without hiring him; and it was only on seeing his
attachment to me in the course of time that I afterwards granted him a
dollar a month, and he did not obtain two dollars till my leaving
Zínder, in January, 1853, on my way to Timbúktu, when I was obliged to
augment the salary of all my people. This lad followed me with my two
camels.
All was fertility and vegetation, though these fields near the capital
are certainly not the best situated in Bórnu. I felt strengthened by the
fresh air, and followed the eastern path, which did not offer any place
for an encampment. Looking round I saw at length two of my men coming
towards us, and found to the left of the track, on a little sandy
eminence, a convenient spot for pitching my tent. I felt happy in having
left the monotony and closeness of the town behind me. Nothing in the
world makes me feel happier than a wide, open country, a commodious
tent, and a fine horse. But I was not quite comfortable; for, having
forgotten to close my tent, I was greatly annoyed by the mosquitoes,
which prevented my getting any sleep. The lake being very near, the dew
was so heavy that next morning my tent was as wet as if it had been
soaked with water.
[Sidenote: Sept. 12th.]
Notwithstanding these inconveniences, I awoke in the morning with a
grateful heart, and cared little about the flies, which soon began to
attack me. I sat down outside the tent to enjoy my liberty: it was a
fine morning, and I sat for hours tranquilly enjoying the most simple
landscape (the lake not being visible, and scarcely a single tree in
sight) which a man can fancy. But all was so quiet, and bespoke such
serenity and content, that I felt quite happy and invigorated. I did not
think about writing, but idled away the whole day. In the evening my
other man came, and brought me a note from Mr. Overweg, addressed to me
“in campo caragæ Æthiopiensis” (karága means wilderness).
[Sidenote: Saturday, Sept. 13th.]
I decided late in the morning, when the dew had dried up a little, upon
moving my encampment a short distance, but had to change my path for a
more westerly one, on account of the large swampy ponds, formed at the
end of the rainy season in the concavity at the foot of the sand-hills
of Dawerghú. The vegetation is rich during this season, even in this
monotonous district.