accompanied by a dense fog till between 8 and 9 a.m. Wind from
west-north-west. Palmer attacked with same fever that the rest have. The
others very weak but I think a little better. Made a start this morning
at 9.20 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; at 10.14 lagoon on right; at
10.27 crossed creek with plenty of water from south-south-west; at 11.50
lagoon on right--all forest land with a greater number of the paper-bark
tree than any other; at 11.15 much spinifex; at 11.20 creek close on left
with plenty of water; at 11.35 crossed creek, it goes off into many
lagoons southwards and eastwards; good grass and plenty of water, not
much spinifex, the country rather too thickly wooded to be open forest.
Halted at lagoons on the left at 1.20 coming from south of east and
flowing to north of west. Although this country is rather too thickly
wooded to be called open forest it is still an excellent pastoral
country, the grasses sweet and plenty of water, the lagoons being covered
with nymphans or waterlily, and the soil sandy. We passed many patches of
burnt ground, some burnt earlier than the rest, having green grass nine
to twelve inches high. Stopped short today on account of the patients who
are very weak, Kirby in particular; distance travelled twelve and a half
miles. In the afternoon wind from west-north-west. Saw nothing of the
natives this morning before starting. Several palms seen through the
forest, a few close by this camp of no great height; the feed in general
is very dry except in the neighbourhood of the creeks or lagoons.
Tuesday, June 3.
Camp 9. Wind south; considerable dew but nothing to the night before.
There is a good deal of spinifex here and the timber is nothing like so
strong or good as around yesterday's camp and for miles on all sides of
it. Three creeks appear to rise here and join and become one, all from
the southward of east to north of west. Started at 9.8 a.m., the horses
having strayed some distance back to the burnt feed. Bearing 95 1/2
degrees, open forest with spinifex; at 10.30 crossed small creek (dry);
at 10.45 crossed small sandy creek (dry) water on the right; at 11.30
watered horses and then crossed creek from west-south-west to
east-north-east, small creek from south joins close by; at 1.25 crossed
creek with water; at 2.12 crossed sandy creek from north-east to south
and another close by, then scrub and rather thick forest till 5.50, then
camped no water; distance about twenty-six and a half to twenty-seven
miles. One of the horses (Harry) after being ridden into camp appeared to
blow a good deal and from little to more till at last he got seriously
ill and died at 9 p.m. He must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake.
Wednesday, June 4.
Camp 10, or Harry's Camp, after our dead horse. Wind southerly. Started
at 7.18 a.m., still on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; crossed sandy creek
(dry) from north-east to east-south-east; at 9.52 crossed same creek
still dry running to north of east; at 9.15 recrossed same; at 9.20
recrossed; at 9.25 recrossed the creek not far off on the right; country
rather scrubby. Sent Hodgkinson to follow the creek round to ascertain if
water existed in it and if so to stop or overtake us. Went on till about
10.30 when Hodgkinson overtook us having found sufficient water for our
use. Returned at once to it about a mile back and camped. The old female
camel done up; will leave her saddle as it is much knocked about and
divide her load between the others and the horses; she may follow which I
think she will; distance on course to camp about eight and a half miles.
The patients improving, Kirby remains very weak and spiritless. This
morning wind cool from southward; during the day changed round to
east-south-east and in the evening to west-south-west and rather cloudy.
This is a wretched little creek, for some miles sandy, now in its bed are
layers of stone and clay; it frequently loses itself on the flat land.
The timber in the forest consists of two kinds of papery-leafed bark
trees, box, gum, and a very handsome tree, leafless but bears a flower,
besides various shrubs, etc., and spinifex.
Thursday, June 5.
Camp 11. Mild morning, wind from southward and cool, no dew. Started at
9.4 on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees. Creek close on right. At 9.37 crossed
creek. At 9.48 receives a tributary from east-south-east (no water). Very
scrubby for a few miles and then more open forest. At 12.38 came to a
large and broad creek or mass of creeks or river. Water not abundant on
account of its being sandy in its bed. As the camels have had to be tied
up for the last two nights, the country being so densely timbered, I stay
here and camp. Followed the river down about three-quarters of a mile
west-north-west, which appears to be its course. Here it is upwards of
300 yards broad, banks no great height. Distance on course ten and
three-quarter miles. Wind about 11 a.m. changed round to east and north
of east and warm; as we got to camp it blew gently from west-north-west.
Patients except Kirby mending gradually. I should imagine the river to be
the Flinders but if so it must turn after it passes this very much to the
west to enter the sea near where it is laid down on the charts. Its bed
pretty well the whole way across is wooded with the paper-like barked,
narrow-leafed tree, and a few other shrubs. It appears as if there was
not at all a heavy flood down it this season as few or none of the trees
are washed down.
Friday, June 6.
Camp 12. Dull morning, rather cloudy. Patients much improved. The female
camel left behind yesterday has not made her appearance yet, still I have
little doubt but that she will follow. Not a breath of wind at sunrise.
Started at 8.17 a.m. Still on general course bearing of 95 1/2 degrees
over open-timbered, well-grassed land. Afterwards at 10.11 came to and
crossed same river from north-north-east to south-south-west. It was not
far off all the morning to the right. Spelled seven minutes till 10.18.
At 10.36 recrossed river where it is stony and rocky with sand in its
bed, coming from south. At 11.3 struck river on right but did not cross.
Followed along its north-east bank till 11.15. Still close by at 11.27.
At 12.50 crossed small sandy creek from south. Spelled for six minutes
till 12.56. Then bearing along the creek till 1.11 p.m. on bearing of 325
degrees three-quarters of a mile; distance on proper course 95 1/2
degrees thirteen and a quarter miles. Just after camping I found that
what I take to be the River Binoe is about 120 yards east of us, flowing
about 322 degrees, with a lagoon on east bank, with yellow lilies. The
small creek we are camped on has plenty of water. The Binoe River has
none just here. All the creeks and the river have lots of cork-screw
palms in and near them. Good forest all day and abundance of grass.
Saturday, June 7.
Camp 13. But little dew last night. The old camel has not come on;
perhaps she will remain until she freshens up a little and then shape her
way south or east. No wind, beautiful morning. Hodgkinson shot a native
companion; have seen no game for some days. Started at 8.40 on bearing of
110 degrees. In four minutes crossed the Binoe. At 9.8 came to and
recrossed river or creek Binoe. At 9.45 crossed creek with rocky bed and
with water from east by south. Spelled five minutes till 9.50. Quartz
ridges. At twelve o'clock spurs running to south and west. At 1.40 from
top of hill dismal view seen ahead; nothing but bare burnt up ranges.
Struck the River Flinders or one of its largest branches at 2.18 p.m.
Crossed over and camped at a long sheet of water in its bed on
south-eastern side. Distance on course sixteen and three-quarter miles.
The journey today has been over thick scrubby forest which tore our
pack-bags a good deal. From 9 a.m. the ground was a good deal strewed
over with small ironstone pebbles, not bronzed as they usually are, till
9.45 then ridges and ranges of quartz and sandstone. Drainage south and
west. A high range on the left, some 6 to eight miles off, wooded to its
top. Immediately below it runs the Binoe I think. Course of the range is
about 100 degrees. This watercourse comes here from the north-north-east
or even north of that, and bears away to the south-south-west as far as
discernible. Wind during the day from east to south-east. As this is a
good place for killing I will kill our last bullock as he has become a
nuisance in driving the horses by rushing among them on the march and out
through them in front and on all sides, causing them to travel in an
unsteady manner and assisting to further tear the bags. All the patients
getting on well. Natives burning down this creek or river some little
distance and ahead and a little to the left of our course today, the
first we have seen for a few days. I omitted to mention a couple of days
ago falling in with a number of frameworks about six feet long by four
wide and three high, risen by four forks placed on the ground, then side
pieces, and the top covered with similar pieces closely all over
lengthways, and on top of that grass; then fires at head, feet and both
sides. I should say to sleep on during wet weather. Killed our bullock
but little fat on him, but he is not of a fat kind.
Sunday, June 8.
Camp 14. Wind from east and north of east in the morning. Cutting up and
drying the beef; the fat drying won't detain us. A great abundance of the
River McKenzie bean here on the sandy parts of the watercourse. Here the
watercourse is about 100 yards broad, in many places bergues of sand
separating it into different channels. Wild dogs abundant. Saw traces of
kangaroo, emu, and wallaby on our way here yesterday. Wind changed during
the afternoon to south-east and south-south-east. This sheet of water is
from 250 to 300 yards long and twenty yards broad. Kirby much better and
the others getting quite convalescent.
Monday, June 9.
In Camp 14. Drying the beef, shoeing, mending pack-bags, and various
other little things etc. No dew last night. Still morning. Most beautiful
weather. What little wind there is is from south by west but hardly
perceptible. I took Middleton with me to go out to reconnoitre and feel
our way for next stage through the hills ahead. Found that the
watercourse comes from north or a little west of north from between the
heavy-timbered ranges to north and west, and bald hills, or nearly so, to
north and east, and probably winds round nearer its source more to the
east. A number of thinly-wooded hills with small creeks running from them
to west and south appear to run round south for some distance, perhaps
ten to fifteen miles or more. Beyond the highest in the distance the
natives are busy burning, and this leads me to suppose they are on the
other or principal branch of the Flinders River; but I shall know more
about it in a few days. Abundance of water in the small creeks as far
east and south as I went today and some lagoons in the flats. The natives
commence their range of fires from 20 degrees west of south to 30 degrees
east of south, and I think I shall find that it will meet me on my
course. Wind in the afternoon from south by east, strong occasionally,
towards evening it died away. Beef now dry. We start from here tomorrow
if all is right and we have nothing more to detain us. The horses are
shod except one and that one, one of the best, no shoes being large
enough. I hope he will be able to get along. Our food now consists of
about 230 pounds of dry and salt beef, everything else in the shape of
food gone but I think we will have sufficient to carry us into the
settled districts of Queensland on the Burdekin River where we will be
able to get a fresh supply. We have a little salt and amongst the lot
about half a pound of soap.
Wednesday, June 11.
Camp 14. The bed of this branch here is one mass of concrete and
conglomerate, with small and large masses of ironstone, just as if it had
lately escaped from a furnace, with pebbles and pieces of quartz, some
sandstone, and sandstone in which is a mass of quartz. In many other
places it is quite a bed of sand its full width, and in other places
separated into different branches by bergues of alluvial deposit and
sand, with trees of different kinds and shrubs and reeds upon them. There
is a table-topped hill down on or near the north-west bank a few miles,
lightly wooded from north-north-east to south-west and apparently stony.
Not a breath of wind at daylight; afterwards in forenoon from
east-south-east. Started at 8.30 a.m. on bearing of 110 degrees, for
first few miles through open forest intersected with small creeks flowing
to west and south, some containing water with lagoons on the flat
occasionally, the drainage of the ranges to the eastward and north of our
course. The spurs coming down close on our left stony but well-grassed
and very lightly timbered, in fact nearly bald ridges. Over first stony
ridge at 10.10 and considerable-sized double creek at 10.17, dry at
crossing. Top of next high range at 11.15; five and a quarter miles. Very
extensive view. Spelled on top of hill waiting for the camels for
forty-five minutes till noon. Then started on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees
for south-west end of large range in the distance that would otherwise
come right across my original course. There is an immense large black
circular range from 127 1/2 degrees round by east to west-north-west,
with reaphooky faces and scrubby tops, and a number of detached conical
and coronet-topped hills. At 1 p.m. water in a rocky creek close to the
right. Watered the horses. Spelled ten minutes till 1.10. Crossed creek
at 1.15. Sandy, scrubby forest. Crossed another sandy creek at 1.57.
Crossed another sandy creek at 2.3. At 3.15 on top of rocky mulga hill
with granite and mass of quartz pebbles. Some difficulty in getting over
and down a rocky range (granite principally). Struck a small creek with
sufficient water for our use and good feed, and camped at 3.50 at
distance of ten and three-quarters to eleven miles on last bearing.
Distance travelled about sixteen miles. Course of the ranges close by,
the one that we last crossed and the one just close by before us, 40
degrees west of south with the drainage in same direction.
Thursday, June 12.
Camp 15. Dewless night, wind at daylight east-north-east. Started at 8.6
a.m. on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees, top of first mulga range after
passing over very rough ranges; at 9.20 struck creek north-east of the
large range I am making for, watered horses, etc. After scrambling and
creeping over rocks and precipices arrived at south-west end of large
hill; at 10.15 at about three miles spelled for thirty-four minutes till
10.39. From top of hill on which there is a little spinifex you command
an extensive view; the whole country is black and dismal in appearance in
every direction; a fine large range appears in the distance from 100 to
150 degrees, with well-defined gaps, etc., drainage all to the southward
and westward. Now rounded this hill and went on a bearing of 100 degrees;
just after beginning to descend traced a party of horses going northward
under eastern side of large range, apparently when the ground was wet.
Descended much more easily than we ascended; we got into a fine valley
with good timber and plenty of grass, and at 11.50 about three miles came
to a running creek from northward. Traces of a hurricane along the creek,
tops of all the trees on the ground or suspended in the air by bits of
bark; the timber on each bank does not appear here at least to have been
touched. Obliged to stop here as Maitland has not overtaken us; he stayed
behind at the camp for some purpose or other and did not afterwards come
up; I am afraid he has missed the tracks as it is stony and rocky. This
large hill is composed of sandstone of various degrees of fineness,
quartz, pebbles, etc., principally; distance travelled six miles direct.
Here the creek or river is timbered across with the narrow-leafed
papery-barked tree; some short distance up the stream from here this
description of timber nearly gives place to gums. I have no doubt but
that some day or other this place will be taken up as a station. Fish are
in the deep holes, some that I saw about a couple of pounds weight. I
also saw some young guardfish from nine to twelve inches long and many
smaller. Lots of euro and kangaroo but very shy. Maitland made his
appearance shortly after camping.
Friday, June 13.
Camp 16. Dewless night, wind from east by north. I take this to be the
main branch of the Flinders; the hills on its right proper banks are very
bold and must be over 3000 feet high. If they are not before named I have
called them Gregory's Ranges after Augustus Gregory, Esquire, now
Surveyor-General of Queensland. The point I changed my course at
yesterday I have called Mount Wildash after F. Wildash, Esquire, of
Queensland. Immediately east of Mount Wildash close by is another bluff
equally high which I have called Hawker's Bluff after the Honourable G.C.
Hawker. Started at 7.58 a.m. on bearing of 100 degrees for the southern
end of dark range in the distance; at 8.30 south of conspicuous sandstone
rocky peak which I have called Morphett's Peak after John Morphett,
Esquire, of Adelaide; dip of about 35 degrees in the sandstone to about
north-east or a little more east. Kept the above course three miles over
good travelling country; spelled a few minutes then up and down and over
very rocky ranges, in many places precipitous and most intricate
travelling from 9 a.m. till 11.30; three and a half miles farther, then
table-land till 1.50, the drainage is to the east, no doubt to go south
after it has cleared the rocky ranges; spelled, watering the camels from
2.25 to 2.45 p.m., up to this eight and three-quarter miles further.
Commenced ascending another mass of similar rocky ranges; stopped at 3.40
two and a quarter miles further to look out a track to endeavour to get
out of this awful place. Started again at 4.55 p.m. after spelling one
and a quarter hours, could not get the animals over. Went back till 5.22
one mile on our track, or to sixteen and a half miles on bearing 100
degrees, to try another place, southerly and westerly along and over very
rocky ranges till 6.15, about two miles on average bearing of 215 to 220
degrees. Came to a small sandy creek, then another, where by digging we
will be able to give the animals some water, there is plenty of feed; it
has been a very distressing day for the poor brutes; distance sixteen and
a half miles on course of 100 degrees, and two miles on 220 degrees; gave
each of the animals from two to five buckets. Although when first seen
the little water that was visible did not exceed a quart with a few small
dead fish about 1 1/2 inches long, but after digging and clearing away
the sand we got sufficient for tonight and tomorrow morning. It has been
close and oppressive which has added to the distress of the horses and
camels. One of the latter, an old Indian, could hardly be persuaded to
come along. Very light rain commenced about dark or a little after, but I
doubt whether it will come to anything; however it will damp the grass
for the poor animals and make it more palatable.
Saturday, June 14.
Camp 17. Only rained sufficient to damp the grass. Still cloudy; not a
breath of wind at daylight. Craggy hills to commence the journey with
this morning. This sandy watercourse flows to west and south, a mere
narrow channel, but it was of much service to us; we would have fared
badly for the poor animals had we not fallen in with it, insignificant as
it appears. Our pack-bags got sadly torn yesterday with broken timber and
rocks, all of which latter is sandstone. We passed much splendid
splitting timber on our way yesterday, stringy-bark and other trees I
don't know the names of, but useful timber. Crossed the creek at 8.38
a.m. on bearing of south by east till 8.55 three-quarters mile; spelled
looking out on top of hill sixteen minutes, then on east course chiefly;
at 11.30 six miles south one mile from the hill I was making for
yesterday. Still on easterly course up and over a rugged and scrubby
range till 2 p.m. about three and three-quarter miles. Lost an hour in
searching for one of the horses that bolted and kicked off all his load
prior to this. Boco (horse) obliged to be left behind. Then about
north-north-east descended a range very steep and rough, then spinifex
precipices, sharp ledges of rocks and every roughness one could imagine
for about two miles or thereabouts, chiefly in the creek, then creek bore
about east by north to east-north-east which I followed till after dark
about six and a half miles, altogether about nineteen miles. Obliged to
leave another horse (Governor) in the creek, fairly knocked up. He has
been very soft although the highest priced horse of the lot, one bought
of Mr. Boord for 50 pounds. There is another will have to be left if the
country does not immediately change for the better; fortunately we found
water in several places in the bed of the creek or the horses would have
fared badly--a little grass of a very coarse nature just in the sides of
the creek, the rest all spinifex and scrub, the latter the camels
greedily devour; the rough country has told much on the feet of the
latter, another of which, the old Indian, I am afraid will have to be
left behind. First pines seen today since crossing Lake Torrens.
Sunday, June 15.
Camp 18. Very cloudy, every appearance of rain. Started at 9.10 along the
bed of the creek still about east by north; at 10.35 three miles the
creek receives a considerable tributary from the south-east, in fact it
is the main channel and the one we are in the tributary, then it flowed
north 15 degrees west to north or nearly so till 11.45 when the horses
knocked up, must camp and give them the rest of the day and probably
tomorrow; on this latter course about two miles; distance travelled
between five and six miles. After getting to camp ascended the hills on
the right or eastern side of the river and never beheld such a fearfully
grand country in my life, nothing but towers and pinnacles of sandstone
conglomerate, fit for nothing but wallaby and euro; and if it is for a
thousand years from this time it can be used by no other animals but them
and the natives as it is at present. The apparent course of this river
from the greatest height I could get to is about 305 degrees, going in
the first place after passing the camp a little more north for three or
four miles--it is a terrible country. Should the river, on a closer
examination tomorrow, prove to go as I imagine it does, I have nothing
for it but to retrace my steps and go up the main branch and try and
cross the range at top. Still very cloudy and looks as if it would rain
every minute. I wish I had a little more food, if I had I would give the
animals a week here but I have barely sufficient for six days. Oaks have
been seen today in the bed of the river since the junction of the two
channels. The river runs below the junction of the two branches for some
distance, but here it is dry its full width which is about 150 to 200
yards and is very picturesque, with beautiful drooping gums, papery-bark
trees, and various others, and the bold cliffs towering one above the
other with awful grandeur. No one can conceive how much effect the travel
of the last few days and the shortness of nourishing food has had upon
our animals which ten days ago were fit for anything--always excepting
this description of awful country. Wind from all points of the compass.
Monday, June 16.
Camp 19. In the bed of the River Gilbert (I take it to be) no room for
camp anywhere else. The country is literally teeming with euro and
wallaby, but as the natives are about in the rocks and precipices hunting
we have no chance of shooting any. Very cloudy yet; rained a little
during the night but nothing of any consequence; we cannot now be more
than from sixty to seventy miles from the River Burdekin but from this
spot utterly impracticable. Had to come down this length for anything
like feed; traces of numbers of natives and their fires still burning.
Went up the rocks and precipices on the eastern side of the river, and
found that a high range extends eastwards, running north-west and
south-east, completely blocking us in from here. Rode down the river to
see if there is any likelihood of our getting out east by a tributary
that it receives about one and a half miles down but found not. Rained a
little in the forenoon and slight showers during the afternoon. Found
that the old Indian camel (Narro) was unable to get up and go about to
feed so, considering that the horses and the two remaining camels (Arabs)
wanted a spell for a few days, I resolved upon killing the old camel and
using him whilst here to save our dried beef, reluctantly as he is
everything but a favourite morsel, but when we are compelled it is no use
hesitating so had him shot; and firstly had his liver stewed or steamed,
which I must say was the most extraordinary morsel I ever attempted to
eat; it was as dry and juiceless and of as little flavour as if it had
never formed a component part of any living animal; scarcely any of the
party could touch it.
Tuesday, June 17.