showers. Cut up the meat of the camel to dry but the weather is very
unfavourable; the rest of him eats much better than the liver; the heart
is quite as good as a bullock's and the meat, considering the condition
of the animal, not at all as tough as one would expect; the party after
starving for two or three meals have quietly taken to him now and rather
like the meat.
Wednesday, June 18.
Still in Camp 19--not the most enviable place in the world. Heavy dew
last night. I am afraid the meat we are attempting to dry will be a
failure on account of the moist state of the weather. I was sadly grieved
on return of the party that went to see after the horses to learn that
one of our very best horses (Rowdy) was lying dead a short distance down
the river, still warm; he must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake;
at present we will feel his loss much as he was so strong and always kept
fat. Although the meat will not be quite dry I will see and make a start
out of this in the morning in case it may be some poisonous herb that may
happen to be in the bed of the river. I will return up the river to where
the main branch joined the tributary we came down, and try by following
it for some distance to get some place where I can ascend the ranges to
the east, but I expect it to be a work of great difficulty; however that
I will think nothing of if I only succeed and get the animals all over
safe. The weather seems taking up now.
Thursday, June 19.
Camp 19. Beautiful morning, not a breath of wind. Try what success we
will have up the main branch of this river in finding a passage over the
range to eastward. Have got rid of everything we can possibly spare and
that will now be of little use to us and had them buried on the
south-west side of creek, under the creek side of large broken-off
standing dead tree, and up the bank about forty yards from a large
gumtree, with a large square patch of bark taken off and small arrow at 4
o'clock in the direction should they be sought for, which I much doubt.
The horses don't look at all the thing I am sorry to see, knowing that
they have some heavy work immediately before them; even before attempting
to ascend the ranges we have to travel in the bed of the river where the
sand is excessively heavy and trying on the poor animals in their present
leg-weary state and want of condition. I never saw animals fall off so
suddenly in my life. Followed our tracks back to the junction of the two
branches about two and a half miles, then took the left-hand or
south-east branch, found it improve much more than I had anticipated; the
rocky hills recede occasionally and leave a nice bank of grass, but most
of it recently burnt by the natives; on our left the rock appeared now to
be chiefly slate, while on the right it still remained sandstone and
quartz; the bed is broad and generally very open and sandy, upon which we
have principally to travel; followed it for about eight miles in about an
east-south-east course. From here (Camp 20) for some distance (seen from
a hill here) the river appears to receive from the east by south
generally plenty of water at intervals and generally at those places
running; no doubt all the way it runs either over or under the land.
Where we are now encamped the river is upwards of 150 yards broad. We
found on turning out the camel meat to air that it was quite putrid and
had consequently to throw the whole of it away; at this time it is a very
great loss to us, the loss of upwards of seventy pounds of food. Even
with the spell our horses have had they come along very indifferently,
and I am almost afraid some more of them will have to be left behind as I
have not sufficient food to wait spelling for them till they get flesh;
there does not appear to be the same nourishment in the grass that there
is almost anywhere else. Saw the smoke of natives a few miles ahead of
us; I suppose we will see something of them tomorrow. Shot a new pigeon,
will try to preserve the skin. Some figs were got by some of the party
this morning before starting; I ate one of them apparently ripe, it was
very insipid, the principal part of them were full of small flies.
Distance travelled by bed of river not direct about ten and a half miles.
Friday, June 20.
Camp 20. Heavy dew last night; sky completely overcast with very heavy
rainy-looking clouds. We have now on hand dried meat sufficient for about
five and a half days, at the rate of one pound three ounces per day
without salt or anything else, which is not very heavy diet. I never saw
a country where less game was to be obtained; what euro and wallaby are
here are so very wild there is no getting near them. Just here the hills
are not so high or so rough as some distance further down; I hope they
may continue so, that the animals won't be distressed more than possible.
Not a breath of wind this morning. Our course as seen from a hill close
by last night will be about east-south-east for some distance this
morning. Started at 8.10 a.m.; at three and a quarter miles came to a
barrier right across from range to range, and after considerable
detention succeeded in finding a road on our left round the range that
the barriers form from; at four miles came to where one branch (the
largest) comes from the south with plenty of water in its bed in the
stone and rocks; the other branch is considerably to the east so will try
it, although it does not at all look a watery branch but is much more in
the direction I want to go. About the same course, over much more open
country, hilly and thinly clad with small ironbark timber, and is chiefly
of slate formation and well-grassed, but no water in its bed as far as we
went, say about five and a half miles further where we fortunately got
sufficient at the junction of a small side creek with the main
watercourse to suit our immediate wants. It is perfectly surprising to
see such a broad channel with such ranges close by and no water. One
other of our best horses obliged to be left behind today; he has been
ailing for some short time and all at once refused to proceed. A few
kangaroo seen today. I trust we will fall in with plenty of water
tomorrow, our horses never do so well as when they can go to water
themselves instead of watering out of buckets. For some distance the
creek bears to north of east; in fact the next bend, about a mile long,
is from north or so, when it appears to turn to south and east. We
managed occasionally during today to get upon the slopes from the hills
on either side of the creek, which was much better travelling than in the
soft sandy bed of the creek, which I have called Stuart's Creek after Mr.
McDouall Stuart, the indefatigable explorer of South Australia. This part
would make a good sound sheep country if water at all times was
obtainable. A number of oaks all along this branch, and more just here on
our left side of the creek where the water is, and we are encamped.
Saturday, June 21.
Camp 21. The clouds of yesterday passed over with only a few drops of
rain just after starting. Today cloudy again; wind from east by north;
started at 7.53 a.m. As the horses came in to water, just before
starting, we found that the horse Jamie had come up during the night but
looks hardly able to drag his legs after him. It is a great pity as he is
a splendid hackney and is a great loss at present. The narrow-leafed
papery-barked tree grows on the sides of the creek to a great size and
height, completely overtopping the gums, oaks, etc. There is very little
feed in this part of the country that the camels are fond of. At about
four miles, creek running, with plenty of feed; for three and a half
miles further the creek comes from north-east by north, then a little
more east. General course today about north-east and distance travelled
about sixteen miles, when we fortunately got sufficient water in a
barrier in the creek, evidently from recent rain, the bed of the creek
otherwise perfectly dry. Three more horses knocked up and obliged to be
left behind, namely Bawley, Fidget, and Camel (mare) although good
travelling. Ascended hill at camp and found that the first leading main
range bears east and about 40 degrees north, which I intend making for.
Sunday, June 22.
Camp 22. Wind from east by north and cloudy; obliged to lighten further
our load by leaving the tents and spare pack-saddles and bags here on
north side of creek; started at 8.20 a.m. The barrier here is composed of
a yellow close-grained stone impregnated with small specks of quartz, and
the hills on either side, pieces of granite of the same kind are also
strewed in the bed, brought down by the currents. A few oak-trees
immediately above this camp. Passed over hilly well-grassed ironbark
granite country on a bearing of about 90 degrees (but first of all a
little to the north of that, and afterwards as much to the south, which
equalised the bearing) for the point of a range which I mean to ascend.
Got to it at eleven and a half miles; then quarter of a mile along top of
range, the ascent of which we found excessively difficult, and had two of
our best horses nearly killed by falling backwards down the hill, and
only being brought up from going to the bottom and getting smashed by
some trees and rocks; the camels especially we had to unpack twice (two
ascents) and I once thought we were not to get them up they are so weak,
especially the smallest one--a splendid little animal. Then we got a
comparatively easy descent and made for north end of a heavy range close
by on a bearing of 85 degrees. At three-quarters of a mile got to the end
of it, over rough country intercepted with innumerable creeks, hills,
rock, and timber; then bore east-south-east for distant bluff of range
along well-grassed but very hilly sound country for two miles. Could
hardly get the small camel along, and no appearance of water, and it
within an hour of sunset. Went down the spur of a small range we were on
and providentially at the bottom found in a little blind creek sufficient
excellent water for ourselves and all the animals. I'm sure I don't know
what the poor animals would have done had we not found them water; and to
our uneasiness two of the men, Maitland and Kirby, were seized with
sickness on the road and useless to us. I found after getting over the
large range that I could have got round it had I kept south, and by
travelling a circuitous route, but from the western side of the range the
way I came was the only way visible that was passable, and it was nearly
as impassable as it was possible for it to be. From the top of it you
command a very extensive view in all directions. To the south in the
distance is a fine long leading range, apparently running from
west-north-west to east-south-east; to the north and west high black
ranges; to the east heavy dark ranges but don't appear united. Drainage
can't make out.
Monday, June 23.
Camp 23. Heavy dew, cloudy morning. Will be obliged to stay here to
recruit the animals where there is plenty of excellent feed and
sufficient water, and am sorry to say kill a horse and endeavour to dry
or jerk him, in the meantime I hope the weather may prove favourable for
that purpose. I did hope not to be driven to killing the horses; had I
for a moment thought so when at the Gulf I would have shaped my course
south for Adelaide, but I never dreamt of such a rough country as I found
in this direction, Walker and Landsborough will have found it so
likewise. Ascended one of the ridges close by but could not tell which
way the principal drainage went, it is open forest land from north of
east by south round to north of west for a great extent of miles, with
heavy ranges beyond, and a couple of breaks apparently in the range at
110 and 145 degrees, which to take I have not yet made up my mind, and
the horses are so weak that I don't wish to take more out of them than
can possibly be avoided, and reconnoitring at present would only cause
probably another horse or two to be left, which is everything but
advisable. Wind was fresh during the night. Killed one of the horses had
of Mr. Scott, being most suitable for our purpose, and an excellent
packhorse he was, always having carried during our travels one of the
heaviest packs, and was one of the unfortunate animals that fell down the
range yesterday. It is a little cloudy but I hope it will blow off and
give us favourable weather for drying his flesh; ate his heart, liver,
and kidneys, and found them excellent made into a sort of hash with a
little remnant of pepper we had.
Tuesday, June 24.
Camp 23. A little dew early part of the night, but little the remainder.
Keen cold wind from all quarters, chiefly from north-east to south-east
and clear sky; if it continues will suit our meat-drying well, which will
be of vast advantage to us; to lose the flesh of another animal as we did
the camel's would indeed be a serious loss. Our two patients Maitland and
Kirby deadly sick; whatever can be wrong with them I can't imagine; the
latter has been ailing off and on for some time and has got dispirited in
the rough country. Busy this morning cutting up the flesh of the horse
and tying it on the lines to dry; had he been in good condition it would
take a good judge to distinguish his flesh from beef; it makes most
excellent hash and soup. One of our horses has mysteriously got lame in
his stifle since coming here, I hope not permanently.
Wednesday, June 25.
Camp 23. Wind the same as yesterday and fluctuating--very heavy dew last
night and very cold. The last two days have been warm and suit our
purpose for meat-drying admirably. The two invalids are still very
unwell, but trust they will be better by the time the meat is thoroughly
dry and cause us no unnecessary detention till we get into the stations
on the river Burdekin, where they can have a change of food. The horses
appear to benefit on this spell and feed.
Thursday, June 26.
Still in Camp 23. Heavy dew, foggy morning till about 10 a.m. when the
meat was hung out to dry. Wind from all quarters but turned out rather a
nice warm day, and will be about sufficient to dry our meat to enable us
to start in the morning. Shoeing some of the horses that cast their shoes
over the rough country, and preparing for a start; the lame horse is a
little better; the invalids I cannot say are much improved. There is a
great scope of good pastoral land here but rather hilly. I have made up
my mind to try what appears to be the easiest and, from here, the
straightest course on a bearing of 110 degrees. The drainage appears to
go from here firstly to the south-east, receiving all the drainage of the
large ranges apparently from 110 degrees round to south, when it appears
to turn suddenly round some prominent ranges after receiving drainage
from the westward of this, and uniting in one large watercourse and
flowing behind a large leading range to south and east. Probably the head
of the River Clarke takes its rise here.
Friday, June 27.
Wind as usual for the last few mornings--northerly; heavy dew but a
beautiful morning. The natives were busy grass-burning south-south-east
of this in the valley last afternoon. It was observed too late or I would
have gone down to them and might have got some information from them as
regards the courses of the different creeks, etc. etc., and probably the
whereabouts of the nearest station on the Burdekin or one of its
tributaries, so that we might be enabled to get a supply of food by the
time this is exhausted. The horse turned out for us about seventy pounds
of nearly dry meat which I trust will last us till we get to where there
is beef or mutton. Started at 8.30 a.m., first on bearing of 119 degrees
for a saddle in a low ridge between this and the large range for two and
a half miles, then drainage to this point southerly; then bearing of 110
degrees for five and a half to six miles farther, drainage for two-thirds
of this distance to the northward; at the end of the distance arrived at
a nice brook running to southward close under the range. Got to a peak in
the pass at two miles farther on last bearing (110 degrees) then bearing
of 101 degrees, firstly over rather rough granite country, latterly over
good pastoral, and latterly to a reedy swamp with small water-creeks
coming in from right and left. Followed on the south-eastern side of the
swamp for some little distance and camped at two and a half miles
further. The whole country today is I may say composed of granite, and
sound country well-grassed and watered. Distance travelled about ten and
three-quarters to eleven miles. After getting to camp went and ascended
one of the highest hills near to get a view of the country ahead; had a
very extensive view from it, apparently comparatively level country from
62 1/2 to 103 1/2 degrees for some distance, with a sudden dip at about
twelve to eighteen miles distant, heavy ranges in the distance beyond,
and as seen from this hill very rugged and mountainous country from 62
1/2 degrees by north round considerably to east of south. On a bearing of
about 140 degrees under the range I am now on there appears to be a
considerable tract of openly timbered and level country, but which way
the drainage goes is difficult to determine from top of hill. The swamp
and creek we are encamped on and after passing this appears to flow about
north, or a little to west of that, but from the top of the hill could
see no break in the main ranges to allow of its passing through to either
northward or westward.
Saturday, June 28.
Camp 24. Course 90 degrees, heavy dew, beautiful morning. The water
although running strong here is of a milky appearance. Started at 8.10
a.m. over granite ridge and crossed swamp and water-creek to north. At
two and a quarter miles boulders of lava on the eastern side; at two and
three-quarter miles crossed large creek with plenty of water, which I
have called Frank's Creek after F. Marchant, Esquire, of Arkaba north of
Adelaide. It comes from southward. At four and a half miles crossed small
running rivulet from south; at five miles crossed a larger one from same
direction; at six and three-quarter miles crossed a running creek in a
swamp from south also; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed a
splendid creek with oaks, etc., quantity of swampy ground on either side
flowing same as last, which I have called the George after George
Marchant, Esquire, of Wilpena north of Adelaide. At ten and a quarter
miles crossed rivulet running to south; at ten and three-quarter miles
examined boggy swamp with plenty of water, drainage to south. At eleven
miles on top of small rocky range. Most extensive view ahead of
level-looking country. At twelve and a half miles boggy swamp, went round
the south end of it, its drainage is northward; at fifteen miles crossed
a good-sized creek with sandy bed, some oaks, the water merely trickling
through the sand but sufficient for all our wants; good timber. Camped
here. Two of the horses nearly knocked up. Creek flows east on passing
this.
Sunday, June 29.
Camp 25. Maitland very unwell, Kirby only so-so. There is also water in a
small creek close by to south which joins this creek close by; ranges
visible within a few miles to south of south-west; wind from southward
chiefly but variable; I have called the creek we encamped on last night
Burt's Creek after G. Burt, Esquire, of Adelaide. Started at 8.18 a.m. on
course of 90 degrees; at half a mile crossed large rocky creek from the
south with boulders of lava in its bed; there was lava also at starting;
a continuation of rough lava country for three miles; bad travelling. At
three and three-quarter miles crossed strong running river or creek,
granite bed; fish; with oaks, current to northward. At six miles crossed
small dry sandy creek to east-north-east; top of granite ridge at six and
one third of a mile: spelled nineteen minutes for a view; bearing of 84
1/2 degrees for a distant knoll in what appears a leading range, and a
possibility of getting easily over it. At one mile crossed a small dry
creek to east-north-east; at two miles crossed dry sandy creek to
east-north-east; at two and three-quarter miles crossed oak creek (dry)
to east-north-east; at five and two-third miles crossed large oak creek
(dry) to east by north; at one and three-quarter miles further came to
lagoon, not very large but suits our purpose for a camp as one of the
horses can't be persuaded to come on. I expect I will have to kill him to
live upon for a few days whilst the other horses spell; some of them are
very weak but the feed is too dry to kill him here; distance travelled
about thirteen and three-quarter miles. Saw three emus today and a few
turkeys; kangaroos were also seen for the last two days; the strong
running river that we crossed at three and three-quarter miles from camp
this morning I have called the McKay after G. McKay, Esquire, of Mellia,
William's River, New South Wales. The latter part of today the feed has
been very dry but generally speaking it is an excellent country for any
kind of stock; the only impediment to sheep is the very abrupt banks of
the creeks for drays for the cartage of wool, but that would be got over
with well searching; saw a native but he made off at full speed when he
observed us.
Monday, June 30.
Camp 26. A good deal of box and apple-tree about here; our chief timber
of late has been ironbark and other very useful trees, with gums always
about the creeks and swamps. Saw yesterday on the way a few of that
ornamental fruit-tree of Cooper's Creek, which I have not seen for some
time, but it was of small growth; the soil I suppose not being suitable.
Will go on for some distance on same bearing as yesterday, to see if I
meet better and more green feed accompanied with water to spell the
horses. Although I am quite satisfied that I am close upon the Burdekin
still I may not be close upon any of the stations. Little dew last night,
wind light, and latterly a little inclined to be cloudy; sun rose 58
degrees east of north. Started at 8.3 a.m. At three-quarters of a mile
crossed a creek from the east-south-east, deep and dry; rather thickly
timbered country and not so rich. Gradual ascent to top of ridge;
division of waters about three-quarters of a mile west of the mound or
peak I was steering for at four miles. Abreast of peak at four and
three-quarter miles; went to top of it; it was very steep and composed of
very rough sandstone, granite, and decaying slaty stones. Had a pretty
extensive view from it; but my view north, of 62 1/2 degrees, was
intercepted by rough ranges. The drainage from this tier of ranges,
eastern side, appears in the first instance to go to east-south-east or
even south of that; and afterwards when all the watercourses unite in the
flat some distance off to go to north and east. Started from this peak on
bearing of 62 1/2 degrees for a break I observed in the distant range; at
one mile crossed an oak creek (dry) to east-south-east; at three and a
half miles crossed another oak creek (dry) lots of kangaroo about, and no
doubt there is water although we did not see it in our course; at four
and a quarter miles came to and crossed a swamp and creek with water in
one hole that will be sufficient for us and camp. Maitland so ill he can
hardly hang on the horse's back and the horse Jack knocked up; killed him
during the afternoon; although a bag of bones he will make soup for a few
days and give Maitland a chance of recruiting, and will be a means of
refreshing the horses and camels. Journey today about nine miles, the
latter part very ridgy and rather rough although well-grassed; but
indifferent travelling on account of the watercourses down the slopes
being rather deep and steep on both sides. Kirby still keeps about the
same thing; he is a mere bag of bones compared to what he used to be.
Palmer has been complaining for some time and gets little better or
worse; a violent headache generally seizing him about noon every day.
Hodgkinson is also generally complaining. Wind afternoon from north.
Tuesday, July 1.