horses, bedding, and provisions on such a course, 25 1/2 degrees west of
north, as will cut their camp. No tidings of the camels. I went out and
hunted about for them till noon, and just as I got to camp Bell and Davis
returned, having camped out all night after them, but saw nothing of
them--the ground is so hard they leave so little impression on the ground
that it is a difficult thing to trace them; however they have got bells
and hobbles on and will at once be again sent after, with, I hope, more
success. I am exceedingly annoyed at the detention here, more so as the
animals don't do so well here as they have done. Hunted still during the
afternoon for them, but without success. All spare hands will start out
in search in the morning; it will be the sound of the bells or the sight
of them only that will recover them, as track them we cannot in this dry
country. Promised the party a treat on arriving within the influence of
the sea on the north coast, so had baked some flour kept in reserve and
each had a liberal allowance served out to him--that with fresh and
excellent mutton and some salt I brought back from the flats gave all
quite a treat. Sent Poole and Middleton theirs on by Hodgkinson and
Maitland, which in their present half-starved condition would be a still
greater treat. We would all have been in better spirits had the camels
not been absent, but will hunt well for them tomorrow and trust we may
recover them.
Friday, May 16.
I with Bell and Davis started out first thing after the camels, leaving
Palmer, Wylde and Kirby in camp. Searched back towards the old camp again
although they had assured me they had thoroughly searched all the leading
creeks, but I had little faith in their search, which the result proved.
At about six miles south-south-west in one of the creeks that they
particularly assured me had been well-searched I, with Davis, found their
traces (Bell having been sent in another direction) and after losing
their track for about six or seven hours succeeded in finding them about
twelve or thirteen miles south and west of this, I fancy more by accident
than anything else, at about an hour and a half to sunset, and
immediately started to camp where they arrived all right and are now tied
up for the night ready for a morning start, and very glad am I that they
are found.
Saturday, May 17.
Camp 58. Sultry, wind east. All the animals ready for a start and happy
am I to turn my back on this camp which I call Rowdy Creek Falls Camp
after the poor little bullock we killed here, which gave us about 70
pounds of such stuff as one could hardly imagine without seeing
it--nothing like a particle of fat visible anywhere and excessively
tasteless. It is fortunate our two remaining bullocks are in better
condition or we would not be in the most enviable plight on our arrival
at the settled districts, Queensland. Started on bearing of 335 1/2
degrees over good open country. At two and three-quarter miles came to
and crossed a creek coming up from south-south-west; in that direction
there are falls and sheets of rock quite across it and forming above and
below them splendid reaches of deep water with numberless ducks, etc.,
and black macaws and gillates in thousands. Plenty of water in our course
beyond the creek for half to three-quarters of a mile; then over plains
intersected with thin belts of small trees, the river not far off on our
right. At seven and a quarter miles changed course to 334 degrees,
keeping a little farther from the river. At fifteen and three-quarter
miles got to camp, found all right. Natives burning grass close upon our
right on the way here to windward at a furious rate. What their
particular object can be in burning so much of the country I cannot
understand. No natives as yet have voluntarily shown themselves. I met
the same lubra and child again near the same place that I before met her,
but she did not this time attempt to fire the grass round me. A short way
on further I met, or rather overtook, another lubra with two children;
she tried at first to conceal herself but when she saw that she was
observed she immediately set to work to burn the grass round us in all
directions. However I got off the horse and walked towards her, holding
out a fish-hook to her; she did not hesitate much but came forward and
took it and I went on my way. Saw no natives since but look where you
may, except north, and you will see fires raging. About two miles from
this and on our left as we came along is a fine lagoon in the midst of
timber. The tide it appears rises here now from six to ten feet. Not many
fish caught.
Sunday, May 18.
Camp 59. Wind easterly; heavy bank of dark clouds to the west and the sun
rose not so bright as usual. Over open plains, bad travelling; on bearing
of 340 degrees at four and a quarter miles struck an immense lagoon
(semicircular) and kept it on our right for nearly three-quarters of a
mile, then still bore 340 degrees for one-seventh of a mile further; then
changed course to 17 degrees; at half a mile struck and went through a
swampy lagoon going east; at three and a quarter miles river close by on
the right; at four and three-quarter miles came to large lagoons in our
course; went a little to the left and passed between two, appears to be a
very heavy one to the left close by. Still on bearing of 17 degrees; at
one and a quarter miles further large lagoon close on right; a couple of
hundred yards further on on the right is a fine creek with abundance of
water and game; at eight miles crossed it still on bearing of 17 degrees;
at two miles further on struck a fine large mangrove creek, a very pretty
spot like an orange grove. Bearing of 321 1/2 degrees for two miles; then
bearing of 35 degrees, crossed the sea running in through mangrove creeks
into the flats like a sluice, and camped at a lagoon and couple of fresh
water-holes close by the river at one mile. We are now perfectly
surrounded by salt water, the river on one side and the mangrove creeks
and salt flats on the other; I question much whether we shall be able to
get to the beach with the horses. Since noon the wind changed to
north-north-west; country very much burnt by the natives--it was dry
enough as it was without the additional use of fire. Lots of the
waterlily in bloom on all the deep waterholes and lagoons, and a very
handsome tree with dark green foliage and a beautiful yellow blossom, and
completely loaded with a round fruit of the size of a crab-apple, now
green, and containing a number of large-sized seeds, some of which have
been gathered, but I fancy they are too green to save the seed.
Monday, May 19.
Camp 60. In camp near the river where are caught occasionally by the
party a few fish, amongst others a young shark which however was not
eaten; started out this morning with the intention of going to the beach,
taking with me Middleton, Poole, Wylde and Kirby, but was quite
unsuccessful, being hindered by deep and broad mangrove creeks and boggy
flats over which our horses could not travel. I consider we are now about
four or five miles from the coast; there is a rise here in the river of
six and two-thirds feet today but yesterday it was a foot higher; killed
our three remaining sheep and will retrace our steps on 21st.
Tuesday, May 20.
Camp 60. Wind yesterday from north and north and east, at daylight this
morning from north, and during the day pretty nearly from all quarters;
afternoon kept more steady from east; sent Hodgkinson and Poole to the
salt flats to collect what will be sufficient for our homeward rambles,
or rather the Queensland settled districts, where we hope to arrive in
due time, the state of the clothing of the party and want of various
things--the principal thing, food, has prevented my directing the steps
of the party to the settled districts of South Australia. A few natives
came to the opposite side of the river this morning during flood-tide and
got up in the trees, and I was a long time in getting any of them
persuaded to cross; at length two of them and then another middle-aged
man ventured on my displaying a tomahawk to them; they were of the
ordinary stamp, and strange to say were neither circumcised nor had they
any of their front teeth out, but were marked down the upper part of the
arm and on the breast and back; after making them a few presents they
recrossed; no information from them, but perhaps we may see something
more of them on a future day. Hodgkinson and Poole returned with from
forty to fifty pounds of good salt, sufficient for our purpose, and we
start in the morning to proceed as far as the Falls, and cross the river
there in the event of not finding a crossing earlier, which I don't
expect. The camels I am sorry to say are getting lame by the burnt stumps
of reeds and strong coarse grass entering the soles of their feet, I hope
they will soon recover. If the bar at the mouth of the river will admit
vessels to enter there is a sufficiency of water at all tides to ship
horses or stock from alongside the banks without any wharf or anything
else, and good country to depasture upon, but the grasses too strong
generally for sheep.
Wednesday, May 21.
Camp 60. Commenced our journey for Port Denison, wind east-south-east. I
forgot to mention before that, running parallel with the river between
this camp and our last, are small ironstone and conglomerate ridges, with
abundance of feed and good sound ground wooded with the silver leaf,
dwarf gum-looking tree, and various others of no great growth but
sightly, and in the ridges, which are of no height to speak of, there are
splendid freshwater lagoons and creeks; came to a lagoon about two and a
half miles south-south-west of our 59 camp on nearly our old tracks;
splendid feed and water. Just as we had started in the morning the
natives made their appearance on the trees on the opposite side of the
river but did not attempt to cross. I suppose we will see enough of them
on our eastern route; this part of the country is well watered and no end
of feed; plenty of it higher than I am, and a considerable variety; the
remainder of our sheep, even with their long journey, fell off but
little.
Thursday, May 22.
Return Camp 1. Beautiful morning; this lagoon is about twelve feet deep,
surrounded by a marsh with abundance of green feed. Not a breath of wind
at sunrise. West of this camp about two and a half miles off is a
considerable-sized creek, by the overflow of which this lagoon is formed
and fed; plenty of water in the creek and in side creeks from it, and
most excellent timber on its banks and flats for building purposes; it
comes up from south-west and after passing this bears off considerably to
west of north. I have called it the Fisher after C.B. Fisher, Esquire, of
Adelaide. Returned today by my north-going track, the approaches to the
river were so abrupt that I could not get a crossing-place; some of the
banks nearly precipitous and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty
feet high, although I saw rocks right across the river and could have
gone over, but could not ascend the banks so came to camp at a lagoon
close to the creek, three and a half miles north 25 1/2 degrees west of
Falls camp. This creek, which comes up from the south-west and flows past
this for some miles yet before it joins the river about north-north-east
of this, I have called Boord's Creek after Samuel Boord, Esquire, of
Adelaide.
Friday, May 23.
Camp 2. Started on bearing of 135 degrees; at starting crossed the creek,
and at three and a half miles made the river where it is joined by
another of quite equal size apparently but no crossing-place; so had to
go about one mile south-south-west to the Falls and crossed there with
some difficulty, getting one of the camels and several of the horses down
on the clefts of the rocks and barking their knees a little: just after
crossing and proceeding on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees a marked tree was
observed, the first we had seen, and then close by two others, evidently
by Mr. Landsborough. They were respectively marked on the large tree next
the Falls, a large broad-leafed tree, arrow at 1 o'clock LFE. 15, 1862.
C.5. On the northernmost of the other two trees, about twenty paces to
eastward of the large tree, are a large arrow at 1 o'clock and L facing
the west, and on the other gumtree, a few feet north-east, is the letter
E of large dimensions; facing the opposite way or east we dug round the
tree but could find nothing deposited; saw the remains of broken bottles
and fancied from the broad arrow being pointed upwards that a document in
a small bottle might have been suspended high up in the tree and got at
by the natives, but on after consideration I took the meaning of the
arrow being up that up the river was his course; we saw the traces of his
horses at the marked trees, but the tracks must be quite obliterated up
the river or we must have seen something of them; indeed the heavy rain
that inundated the whole country south commenced where we were on the
27th February, and perhaps he had it a little earlier, which may account
for our not seeing any traces of him ere this. Which way he may have gone
under the circumstances is hard to say, as no doubt he experienced very
rough wet weather indeed, and probably was put to many shifts in
consequence of the heavy overflow of the immense creeks. At scarcely one
mile on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees we came to the falls of the other
branch of the river, and crossed it much more easily than the other; it
is about 400 to 500 yards broad and all conglomerate stone, and quite
treeless or nearly so on its banks as far as the stones went, it then
bore off to the south-east or perhaps east of that; at three miles
further, seeing ridges ahead on our course, we camped at a swamp; lots of
geese and ibis. Marked a small tree near Landsborough's with MK
(conjoined), May 22, 1862, with a knife, as we had no chisel or gouge,
they being lost.
Saturday, May 24.
Camp 3. Heavy dew of late; last afternoon wind fresh from
west-south-west; same this morning but light; geese and all game very
difficult to be got at in this part of the country. Natives burning in
all directions but do not approach us; I almost fancy they have been
reproved for some of their misdeeds to some one or other of the parties
here lately, from their shyness. Bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, half a mile
stony flat; one mile, stony ridge and ironstone flat; two and
three-quarter miles small creek; lagoon with plenty of water.
North-north-east open undulations rather swampy; at three and
three-quarter miles struck and crossed a small creek with a little water,
stony ridges (ironstone) rusty gum, spinifex, etc.; at eleven and
three-quarter miles crossed creek with water from north-east. Left creek
at 11.45; stony ridges, ironstone and slate, with a little spinifex;
rather thickly wooded with rusty gum, silver-leafed gum, etc.; anthills,
turreted shapes. At twenty-one and three-quarter miles came to and
crossed a creek on a plain between ranges; it flows north and east and
takes its rise in the ranges close by to the south-west; plenty of water
and feed. Camped at 3.30 p.m.; take three and a quarter miles off journey
= eighteen and a half.
Sunday, May 25.
Camp 4. No dew; started at 8.35 a.m.; wind south a.m.; afternoon
south-east. Over half a mile open plain; then ridges, and on top of first
range at 9.53; very rocky; spinifex, rusty gum, etc. At twenty minutes
past ten stony flat; at twenty-five minutes past ten crossed creek; at 12
o'clock along creek on the left; at 12.15 rocky hill on right and lagoon
with water close under; top of next hill at 12.50; at 1.5 on the open
plains and undulations and pretty well clear of the stones. Tier of
ranges immediately on the left for a mile or so; at 2.18 crossed dry
creek from west-south-west; at 2.28 came to another creek from the
south-west. They are both dry where struck; followed the last one down,
bearing of 60 degrees for one-third of a mile; water in creek and in a
lagoon on the east side; travelling about six hours besides the one-third
of a mile. Creek flows to north-east; distance about eighteen miles.
Monday, May 26.
Camp 5. I find that my watch, the only one in going order or rather
disorder, gains eleven minutes in the hour with the regulator hard back
to slow--now and then, without any apparent cause, stops; until by sundry
shakings and bumps it is prevailed upon to go again--which is most
unsatisfactory, situated as I am here, in calculating distances. Wind all
night strong from south-east to south-south-east and very cold; no dew.
The waters are drying up very fast; during the afternoon of yesterday the
country looked well; nice open ranges on all sides with a large space of
open country, well grassed in the centre. Started at 8.15 a.m. on bearing
of 95 1/2 degrees; at 9.17 passed till this time rather thickly wooded
(low) small ironstone, pebbly country, well grassed--ridgy on both sides;
at 9.17 entered open plains; large creek ahead; first part of plain much
subject to inundation; at 11.24 lagoon apparently about one mile south.
Hills cease south about four miles; passed a couple of belts of timber,
mistaken in the distance for large creek. At 1 p.m. swampy (dry); at 1.15
small creek with plenty of water and feed, from west-south-west to
north-east or east-north-east; at 1.30 made a swamp with good feed and
water. Camped; distance about seventeen miles. The horizon appears to be
one dense cloud of fire and smoke on our way and on all sides of us; saw
no natives.
Tuesday, May 27.
Camp 6. Cold keen wind from south-south-east. The camels I am sorry to
say are very lame, caused by the burnt reeds running through the soles of
their feet whilst near the coast; boots of leather have been made for the
worst of them but they seem to suffer much, and it pulls the flesh off
them more than their work. Started at 8.40 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2
degrees; at 9.15 lagoon close by on the left; country all burnt. At 9.45
struck large creek with abundance of water, boggy where struck; spelled,
looking for a crossing till 10.5. Went down the creek north-east or
east-north-east till 10.16; then on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, till at
10.23 struck what I take to be Morning Inlet, about 150 yards broad with
reeds and grass, no water at crossing; 10.42 left Morning Inlet where we
watered horses. At 2.53 p.m. changed course to 32 1/2 degrees for a belt
of timber, thinking to camp; no water. At 3.12 p.m. changed course to 95
1/2 degrees till three minutes to five, when changed course to 135
degrees until 5.39, then on bearing of 75 degrees till 6.21; no water,
but a very little drop about half a mile back, to which place I returned
and found there was even less than I expected. This is a most deceitful
part of the country; every five minutes you are in expectation of coming
to water but it was our fate to meet none but this muddy little drop,
barely sufficient for our own use, and none for the animals. From about 3
p.m. till we camped heavy belts of swampy box and large gums; many
patches of reeds and coarse grass; water recently dried up; and belts of
plain. Numerous birds seen--cockatoos, hawks, crows, galahs, etc. etc.
etc.
Wednesday, May 28.
Camp 7. The bullocks (two) with Palmer and Kirby on horseback and
Maitland on foot did not come up to camp last night, but immediately
after sunrise the two horsemen and bullocks arrived, but not Maitland, he
being on foot from having injured his horse so much as to render him
unfit to ride, as is his usual way with every horse he gets, taking no
care of him whatever. I told him when he injured the last that if he did
the same to this one he should walk; and good to my word I made him walk
yesterday. Rode a short distance at sunrise, having heard some native
companions calling out after daylight, and found within a quarter of a
mile of us, almost within view, two splendid lagoons. Immediately
returned to camp and moved it at once to the nearest one; it bears from
last night's camp nearly due south, a quarter of a mile or little over;
the other lagoon is distant about 300 yards south-east of this. Great
abundance of feed. As the camels are lame and in need of a spell and we
want to kill a bullock and Maitland not come up yet I have made up my
mind to stop here till all are put in travelling order. In the morning
the wind bitterly cold from south-east to south-south-east. Middleton has
been laid up for the last three days and lost the use of his legs
yesterday afternoon but hope he will soon be all right again. He is much
better today; I should get on indifferently without him. Although we met
with no water coming along last afternoon I have no doubt but that there
was plenty of it, as the natives were burning everywhere as we came
along, particularly close on our right. It is still a splendid country
for grass and timber. As soon as we moved to camp we had one of the
bullocks (Boxer) up and killed; he is very fair beef. The other is not so
good, but stands being kept in hobbles; whereas this one would not or he
would have been kept till last on account of his better condition.
Providentially Maitland made his way to camp late this afternoon. Had we
been obliged to go on again a stage without luckily hitting upon this
place I think he would have gone frantic as he appeared in a sad state of
mind on his arrival; I hope it will be a caution to him in future to see
to his horse better.
Thursday, May 29.
Camp 8. Wind as yesterday and cool. I am sorry to say I have three of the
party on the sicklist--all seized first with cold shivering then
excessive heat, ultimately a numbness and want of proper use of their
limbs, sickness, and want of appetite and headache. They are Middleton,
Hodgkinson, and Kirby. They are confined to bed; but I hope with a little
care will soon recover, as it is an awkward part of the world to be taken
ill in. Getting the meat jerked and putting the pack-bags, etc., to
rights. The other bullock as yet appears to stay contented; he came up
during the night and took a survey of his dead companion and quietly
returned to his feed.
Friday, May 30.
Camp 8. Wind as usual, south-east to south-south-east; keen and cold, the
day pretty warm. The invalids I think a little better, but far from well.
The sore-footed camels improve; but my impression is that their feet will
not thoroughly get well till they arrive in the settled districts where
they can have a spell for some time. Meat-drying, bag-mending,
horse-shoeing, with other little matters. If these lagoons are permanent
(and no doubt there are many more) this is a splendid pastoral country,
feed good enough for any stock and timber to suit almost any purpose.
There are here several fruit-bearing trees but unfortunately the stone
happens to be the largest portion of the fruit and at present none of
them are ripe. A vast quantity of large beans are here on a runner, the
same that Dr. Leichhardt used, when burnt, for coffee and rather seemed
to like. None of our party seem to care trying it, although we have now
nothing but meat and salt and from four to five pounds of flour to make
gruel in case of sickness. All have been till within the last few days in
excellent health and nowise short of appetite. From the time we are out
beyond what was anticipated I suppose the people of Adelaide have given
us up as lost. I hope however they will not think it necessary to send a
search party out after us.
Saturday, May 31.
Patients about the same. Middleton rather worse. Wind in the morning from
south-east and south-south-east, at midday changed to east, then north
and afterwards to north-north-west. Meat nearly dry.
Sunday, June 1.
Still in Camp 8. Patients about the same, very weak and feverish, but
must endeavour to make a move tomorrow. Wind from north, north-west to
west, and rather warm. Had a visit from a number of natives, they do not
appear so shy as usual; they do not circumcise but have one or two teeth
out in front of upper jaw. From what I could see the young men are not
allowed to talk, but merely making a hissing and twittering noise to make
themselves understood, and pointing and motioning with the hand whilst
the old men do the talking business. I could make but little out of them.
I made them a few presents with which they seemed much pleased; got a few
words of their language and with a promise to return tomorrow they took
their leave. They are not at all such a good sample as are at the lakes
north and east of Lake Hope. They say there is plenty of water ahead on
the course I intend to take, but from want of knowledge of their language
could glean nothing of the parties that came in search to the north
coast; but that they have seen whites was quite evident from their
knowledge of the use of the axe. They seemed much in dread of the camels,
the only animals that were near the camp at the time, and expressed by
motions a desire that they should be driven away.
Monday, June 2.