bushfire we have seen; morning pleasant with wind from south-south-east.
Some or nearly all complained of being sick after eating the first emu,
but I liked it much and so did some of the others; they are a great
acquisition and have saved us three sheep; the largest weighed when ready
for the pot forty-eight pounds; the smaller ones when ready for use
thirty-one and thirty-three pounds, and are much better than the old one.
The grass passed over yesterday although abundant is rank and not of that
sweet description we have before seen, but no doubt excellent for cattle
and horses. Just as the animals were being brought in for packing Davis
found, in a small shallow pool nearly dry, numbers of small nice-looking
fish of two sorts--longest not more than three and a half inches; one
sort like the catfish of the Murray, the other spotted like a salmon. For
five miles over timbered plains on a bearing of 345 degrees; at three and
a half miles struck a small creek coming from west and south with plenty
of water; and at five and a quarter miles further an immense deep creek
with water (gum) crossed at rightangles from the western banks which are
very precipitous. I have called it the Jessie. At six miles came to and
crossed a noble river, now a creek as it is not running, but plenty of
water; from 300 to 400 yards broad. At crossing the first, cabbage palm
seen on its western bank between this and the last creek; on left of
course is a splendid belt of white gums on the dry sound flat; this
river, like the other creek, flows from south of west after crossing a
northerly and easterly course; I have called it the Jeannie after a young
lady friend of mine. At fourteen and a half miles came to a fine lagoon
running easterly and westerly; good water in abundance; went round it and
camped north-west side, as the natives are firing close by on the
south-east side; distance nineteen and a half miles. For some
considerable distance back it has been an open timbered country; plenty
of myall and useful white butt gum; drainage as yet all to the east and
slightly north. I thought the Jeannie bore more north but it bore off
again to the eastward; no game of any kind seen today except a turkey; a
great quantity of vines on which grows four or five black fruit, like
peas and extremely hard, from every flower, and on which the emu appears
to feed much. There were also two other vines or runners on which grow an
oblong fruit about one to one and a half inches long, green like
cucumber, but bitter; the other is a round fruit about the size of a
walnut, darker in colour than the other, not so abundant, and which the
emu seems to exist much on at present. Some seeds of each and many
shrubs, flowers, and fruits before new to me I have obtained. A number of
partially-dried lagoons all round this about three-quarters of a mile
long; one is about six feet deep; a very fine sheet of water.
Thursday, May 1.
Camp 48. Beautiful cool breeze from east-south-east; one native seen by
Palmer (who was behind with the bullocks) running the tracks of the
horses and camels, but when he saw Palmer he was off at full speed; it is
strange we don't fall in with more of them in a country where there
appears to be lots of food and water for them; started on bearing of 330
degrees, at 120 yards crossed a partially dry lagoon, at a quarter of a
mile another, then splendid open forest, well timbered and grassed; at
two and a quarter miles struck a creek flowing about 20 degrees north of
east, deep sandy bed, no water, followed it down for one mile bearing 70
degrees and crossed, not being able to get up the opposite banks being so
abrupt; although there is no water here no doubt from the look of the
creek there is abundance both above and below, dead palm tree branches
amongst the creek-wash; bearing of 330 degrees through splendid open
forest and well grassed; at one mile crossed the same creek flowing to
north of west, at three and a quarter miles struck it again and crossed
it flowing to north of east, and just in a turning to north, still no
water in its bed, at three and three-quarter miles struck it again but
did not cross it, it appearing to bear to north-east out of our tracks;
bearing of 290 degrees one mile, creek on right hand; bearing of 330
degrees five miles; then bearing of 322 1/2 degrees for one and
three-quarter miles; bearing of 330 degrees three miles over open plains
with a few shrubs occasionally, came to a small creek flowing to north of
east, plenty of water; distance travelled seventeen and three-quarter
miles; the grass on all the very open country was very dry and little
substance in it, along the large creek passed and crossed various times
reeds first met with; the large creek when last seen was bearing to west
of north a long distance off, beyond an open plain; the creek I am now
upon divides into several branches just here, which makes this one so
small. Shot a new bird--dark grey, large tail, something like a pheasant
in its flight; it always starts from the ground and settles awkwardly on
the trees, its tail appearing a nuisance to it; the specimen shot is too
much torn for preservation. The days now are very warm and the nights
very agreeable. Short as the time is since they must have had the rain
here it is astonishing how it has dried up in many places. The large
creek crossed yesterday I have called the William after a young friend of
mine.
Friday, May 2.
Camp 49. Beautiful morning; wind south-south-west. Bearing 330 degrees
over a plain and at three miles crossed a watercourse flowing east; at
three and three-quarter miles crossed another with plenty of water on
right hand flowing to north of east; at seven and three-quarter miles
came to and crossed a narrow deep creek, plenty water, about fifty yards
wide, and have named it the Dugald, flowing north-north-east; small
ranges visible at crossing this creek; beyond a plain at south-west; nice
open forest before crossing this creek; at ten and a quarter miles over
small stony plain, or rather bald hill, as it ascends and descends; came
to and crossed a box and gum small watercourse; dry at crossing; first
part over plain and latter part over myall forest undulations; at twelve
and three-quarter miles came to irregular small creeks flowing to
north-north-east, plenty of water; at eighteen miles came to a small
creek from the ridges on our left with sufficient water for all useful
purposes. From the last creek, undulations of fair and spinifex country;
and slopes of ridges covered with spinifex (slopes to northward). At this
creek there are a number of beautiful shady trees, leaves about four or
five inches broad and from five to six inches long; besides gums and
various other trees. Spinifex on both sides of the creek down to its
edge. A hill of no great height ahead of us in our course for tomorrow.
Saw plenty of turkey.
Saturday, May 3.
Camp 50. Fleecy clouds; wind east-south-east, blew pretty strong towards
morning. Started on bearing of 330 degrees; for first three miles over
spinifex ridge then small grass flat and another small spinifex ridge; at
four miles over a good-sized plain (drainage all towards south and west
towards heavy timber--where there is I suppose a large creek or river
from the south) and across a small spinifex stony range. Cleared it at
twelve and a quarter miles, following along the slopes of the hills,
drainage west and north; at fourteen miles came to a watercourse,
drainage north, abundance of water; followed along numerous watercourses
both on right and left with plenty of water, and along what is here the
principal creek--not so much water in it although it is better defined.
Camped at sixteen miles. The feed on the open ground is as dry as tinder
and not at all of first-class quality, the only green feed being about
the creek and watercourses. A great abundance of those fine shady
broad-leaved trees; they would be a great ornament in a park; it bears an
abundance of seed but not ripe at present although I have taken some of
it. Very sultry.
Sunday, May 4.
Camp 51. Mild night and morning. Our small stock of sheep got out of the
fold in the night and half of them are missing this morning; I hope they
may be got. Sky a good deal overcast. Wind east. I am glad that the
missing sheep, after a little looking for, were found close by; the loss
of them would have deprived us of at least seven days' food, which would
be no light matter in a country where we seldom can even shoot a duck,
much less sufficient for all the party who are now, I am happy to say, in
excellent health. As this creek--which I have called Davis Creek after
one of the party--bears a good deal on my course of yesterday, and has a
good many irregularities near the bank which make it rough travelling, I
have changed my course to north-west or 315 degrees; at one mile cleared
the creek although it keeps pretty close on my present course and appears
to be hemmed in on the right by the last ridge I crossed yesterday; then
over plains and belts of myall gum; at five and three-quarter miles
crossed a small creek flowing northward over similar country, but more
sound; at ten and a half miles crossed a couple of small creeks flowing
northward (the natives burning a short distance on our left); then over a
variety of fair open country and a small portion of very thick and
scrubby myall forest; then over spinifex ridge; then over well grassed
tablelands for several miles; then over pretty thickly timbered spinifex
rise of considerable length; and lastly for the last five miles over
plains, light belts of timber here and there; got to a creek with
sufficient water at twenty-seven and three-quarter miles. Long day,
rather; did not see a drop of water the whole way, but I fancy we could
have had what we desired at the early part of the day but we did not
require it. The sheep and bullocks got to camp about 8 o'clock p.m., an
astonishing journey for the poor little fellows; they are now, with the
constant travelling and the long coarse grass, falling off in condition,
but had they the feed they were accustomed to they would be much better;
as it is they are far from poor--kidneys well-covered yet and fairish
caul fat.
Monday, May 5.
Camp 52. Mild night with dew and calm, still morning; very cloudy and
rainy-like to north and south of east. Heard a native wailing for some
lost friend or relation during the night but as yet have seen none of
them, although they were burning on left of our track yesterday within
two miles. This creek comes from southward and flows to west of north
considerably; it is well defined with box timber, but not at all deep; it
appears more like a side creek to a larger stream. There is here a
considerable plain on both sides and as yet no main creek visible
although I fancy there must be one, all the drainage yesterday being to
left of our course, no doubt to meet some large creek to south and west.
Started on bearing of 315 degrees; crossed the creek obliquely at
starting; then over a plain; at three and a quarter miles into a mulga
forest, or rather belts of it, and amongst which there was at three and a
quarter miles a swamp with water; then over plains and a gentle rise,
thinly interspersed with small lots of shrubs and thin belts of timber
(light); at thirteen and a half miles to a watercourse, sufficient water
for our use, although rather opaque, but we can easily put up with that
once in a way. I have made the journey short today in consequence of
yesterday's one being so long. At the conclusion of today's stage from my
calculations it places me exactly on Gregory's track, twenty miles east
of where he crossed the Leichhardt River. I hope in reality it may be so,
but I am hardly sanguine enough to expect it, taking everything into
consideration--bad time-keeping watch and nothing to go by but the guess
of your horse's pace.
Tuesday, May 6.
Camp 53. Dull morning, cloudy, wind south-south-west. A vast number of
galahs, corellas, macaws, cockatoo parrots, hawks, and crows here.
Started on bearing of 310 degrees over alternate plains and through belts
of small timber. At seven miles passed swampy country where some heavy
belts of timber are to the right of course. A great number of birds;
water I am sure could be had if required; over alternate plains and
strips of forest as before. At seventeen and three-quarter miles came to
a native camp near swamp (water). Saw two of them in the distance some
few miles further, but they scampered off and I did not go after them.
Over similar country, latterly more open and even. At twenty-two and a
half miles struck the Leichhardt River at what appears an island. Plenty
of deep water; banks too precipitous for the animals to water. Followed
down it bearing 330 degrees for two and a half miles and came to a bend
of the river. Good sound watering-place; shingly and sandy beach for
about a mile. Camped near the upper end of it. Hodgkinson caught a small
fish; large one seen but not caught. It is a splendid river and from bank
to bank is from 150 to 180 yards where we are encamped; but the water is
here and for nearly a mile confined to a space of fifteen to twenty
yards. Here on the western side, and a little further in at a
crossing-place on the eastern side where it is still running a nice
little stream, stony bottom, and only a couple or three yards wide.
Wednesday, May 7.
Camp 54. Very dull morning and sultry; every appearance of rain, sky
perfectly overcast. Started down bed of river on east side on bearing of
37 degrees for one and one-eighth miles; crossed; a quarter of a mile on
bearing of 220 degrees; bearing 260 degrees for one mile, following along
the western banks of river, where it is full of sand and timber, and
fully 500 yards wide; bearing 282 degrees, still along the banks for half
a mile; then bearing of 310 degrees as the river goes suddenly off north
and eastward; one mile on last bearing through, since crossing river,
pretty open forest land; on bearing of 352 degrees at one and a quarter
miles came to a fine lagoon or swamp with plenty of water and green
grass; bearing of 352 degrees, at half a mile further crossed a deep dry
creek going west to or by the swamp, at one and a half miles further came
to and crossed a deepish creek from the south and west, sandy bottom
(water); at one and three-quarter miles further struck the river, plenty
of fresh water, and good crossing if necessary; at two and three-quarter
miles further came to a nice lagoon, plenty of water and feed, river
apparently some distance off, on the right; at seven and three-quarter
miles further over open forest and plains with light timber. Seeing no
chance of water ahead changed course for the Leichhardt; bearing of 109
1/2 degrees for 3 and one-third miles to river; crossed it and camped in
the sandy bed; lots of stones for the last two miles and stony about the
riverbank.
Thursday, May 8.
Camp 55. Strong south breeze, all appearance of rain blown away. Started
on bearing of 355 degrees, water in the way; at one mile, between the
start and that, there were stones and a little spinifex; then over open
plains, small belts of clumps of small trees; halted at nine and a half
miles; water quite sufficient for our use. I never saw such flights of
Sturt's pigeons--at times completely darkening the ground over which they
flew--a vast body of them seem to be wending their way to north-west from
south-east, but vast numbers are here on the plains notwithstanding;
natives burning on the Leichhardt in all directions, and one or two fires
towards the Albert; took Middleton with me to ascertain what kind of
country there is between camp and coast. On bearing of 355 degrees at six
miles came to and crossed a creek, plenty of water, flowing to
north-north-east; at sixteen and a half miles struck a creek with heavy
box and gum timber, and water where we struck it in small lagoons and
side creeks. Camped; natives burning ahead of us and a little east. A
great portion of the country we have come over from camp is inundated and
has now coarse grass and reeds. This creek flows here about north; south
of this it comes more to the north-north-east.
Friday, May 9.
Middleton and I still out; party in camp. Started on bearing of 40
degrees; wind strong, south; at three and a half miles struck the creek,
now a very considerable size and flowing to the eastward and a little
south; followed it for a quarter of a mile, keeping it on the left on
bearing of about 110 degrees, and crossed it at a long grassy flat; in
its bed native wurlies between where we first struck it and crossed it;
bearing of 40 degrees, long deep reach of water, banks well defined;
bearing of 40 degrees, at three-quarters of a mile, creek, recrossed same
on a bed of lava, all rent, abundance of water; at five and a half miles
further struck the Leichhardt, its bed vast sheets of stones--rocks and
small stones opposite side, lower down--the water in its bed is about or
upwards of 150 yards wide; at two miles, bearing of about 210 degrees,
struck the river at a stony and rocky fall and went westward half a mile
to avoid the bend; struck river again at three miles on same course as
above; then at four miles struck the river, water in its full width now
upwards of 250 yards, a splendid-looking place, and lined on its banks
with splendid timber of various kinds, with a variety of palms, etc.;
then to the southward of south-west for between six and eight miles, but
the rugged banks were so intricate that it was impossible to calculate
the distance correctly; in a great many places, half a mile from the
riverbanks, the plains drop off precipitously from three to ten feet, and
slope off in undermined deep earthy creeks, finishing at last in deep
reedy creeks close to the river; water in nearly all the side creeks and
compelled us to keep out, but sometimes we were caught in them, thinking
the timber we were advancing to was a lagoon or belt of timber, and then
we were compelled to go round it; then cross a very fine creek running
into the river the same, I believe, we crossed yesterday about six miles
from camp on our outward course. From this to our camp I make out about
thirteen miles on a bearing of about 200 degrees; got to camp about 8
p.m., for the last seven miles guided by a roman candle shot off at the
camp. Fireworks are most useful in expeditions of this kind as in many
cases some of our party have been guided up to camp near midnight.
Saturday, May 10.
Camp 56. Very cold during the night; in the morning wind south-east but
beautiful weather. Started on bearing of 20 degrees over land subject to
frequent inundations, with reeds thinly scattered over it and narrow belt
of small timber. At twelve miles came to and crossed the creek seen on
our way out on Thursday afternoon last, about six miles from camp (56 the
camp). At thirteen miles struck a lagoon, then another, and another at
fourteen and a quarter miles, all of which have abundance of water; at
the last of which I encamped, excellent feed. I forgot to mention that
yesterday on return to camp from first striking in Leichhardt's River I
observed apparently a native firing the grass a short distance on my
right. I made towards it and saw one coming steadily towards us, still
spying us, retreated at full speed; as I had some fish-hooks and line I
was determined to pull him or her up. Started off and overtook what
turned out to be a gin and her piccaninie, and had a load of something,
which in her retreat she dropped. She screamed and cooeed and set fire to
the grass all around us to endeavour to get rid of us, but all to no
purpose. I held out to her a fish-hook but she would not take them to
look at even, but busied herself screaming and firing the grass; upon
which I got off the horse and approached her. She immediately lifted up
her yam-stick in the position the men throw their spears, and prepared to
defend herself, until at last she quieted down on observing the
fish-hook, and advanced a step or two and took it from me, evidently
knowing the use of it. I then gave her a line and another hook, and by
signs explained to her that I would return in the direction the day
following. She wished me to understand something, holding up four of her
fingers, but what she meant I could not guess. I tried to make out from
her how far the coast was, making motions as if paddling a canoe, but
could not get any information; as soon as we were clear off she set to
work to make an immense smoke to attract the notice of her people to give
them the news. This afternoon three of the party went over
east-south-east about three-quarters of a mile to the river and caught
about a dozen fish of small size and three different sorts, and a turtle
about a foot long. The river during the day has almost always been in
sight from thirty six miles off till crossing the creek, when it was not
more than one mile off.
Sunday, May 11.
Camp 57. Could not have finer weather for travelling; abundance of feed,
though on anything like high ground it has shed its seed and is now dry;
plenty of good water as yet and fair feed round it generally. Lagoons
wooded round generally with rusty gum, box, and white gum; wind
east-south-east and pleasant. Started to clear some broken slopes ahead
towards the river on bearing of 345 degrees. At two miles over plains
came to and crossed a creek running into the river about a mile off; at
two and a quarter miles changed course to 9 degrees, over open
country--generally sloping to north-east from river with plenty of water
on each side; at six and three-quarter miles struck the river at the
falls. Messenger overtook me to say that one of the bullocks we had been
using for the pack could not be brought on so determined to kill and jerk
him; and went west half a mile on a small creek with running water and
where the feed was better and more green than on the river. The bullock
was got to camp about evening and slaughtered; plenty of guardfish,
swordfish, and sharks under the falls, which are about fifty to sixty
feet high with no current. Deep water above and below, and water oozing
through the fissures of the rock which appears a sort of burnt limestone
and indifferent agate. Found an eatable fruit on a handsome tree of the
palm kind.
Monday, May 12.
Camp 58. Wind south-south-west; not an ounce of fat upon the bullock;
won't take so long to jerk. I started out today to examine the country
ahead, taking with me Middleton and Poole. At one mile over plain 5
degrees; changed course to 355 degrees; at five and a half miles struck
the river and changed course to 285 degrees; at five-sixths of a mile
struck and crossed creek from south to river; at two and five-sixths
miles crossed smaller one from same direction; at a quarter of a mile
further changed course to 340 degrees; at eleven and three-quarter miles
over very bad travelling country, plains subject to much inundation, to a
creek running into the river with splendid water and feed; at twelve and
a half miles came to the river, with an immense sand-spit opposite;
appears to be within the influence of the sea and is about 600 yards wide
and dry half across. A number of pelicans up some distance; water either
brackish a little or with some other peculiarity about it. Started for
apparently another bend of the river, on bearing of 329 degrees. One and
three-quarter miles saw a lagoon, on the left ahead; and as the horses
are tired will bear for it and turn them out. Course 282 degrees,
three-quarters of a mile; abundance of water and feed; lots of geese,
ibis, ducks, and spoonbills. North three-quarters of a mile from this is
the river, about 500 yards wide, treeless on the west bank and cliffs
about twenty to thirty feet high, all round an immense sweep; sandy beach
opposite, within the influence of the sea, a rise and fall of four feet
observed--and at high-water a little brackish. Caught a few fish; the
only thing we had for supper; would have done well had there been
sufficient of them.
Tuesday, May 13.
Started on bearing of 330 degrees for a distant point like river timber
which turned out to be a small hill or ridge with spinifex; a lagoon on
the left at its base; struck it at five miles. At five and a half miles
changed course to 355 degrees; at ten miles first part over firm, small,
stony plains, good country; then at four miles crossed a salty timberless
creek; and then over a succession of salt swampy flats with grassy plots
intervening. Middleton's mare Counterfeit knocked up and he had to stay
with her. I and Poole went on on a bearing of 355 degrees still; at two
miles came to a mangrove creek; at two and a quarter miles the banks of
the Albert River; salt arm, from half to three-quarters of a mile broad.
Returned to Middleton and started back for the Leichhardt River on
bearing of 110 degrees to camp, as soon as we could get water and feed,
to endeavour to get the mare back to camp or part of the way. On bearing
of 110 degrees for about four miles, first part over salt swamps; passed
a long rocky lagoon full of water and half a mile long from north to
south, and several other smaller ones between that and the river;
mangrove banks in all the flat parts. Banks on this side treeless;
country much burnt up. Top tide at least five hours earlier than when we
camped last night; caught a few fish--in all about enough for one but had
to do for the three of us. Rise and fall of river somewhere about five
feet.
Wednesday, May 14.
Wind south; was very cloudy during the night and this morning; mosquitoes
very troublesome during the night. Bearing homewards 170 to 215 degrees
for the first eight or ten miles, leaving Poole and Middleton to get on
to our first camp till I bring on the party on the morrow. Got to camp
myself a little after sundown, and to my disgust found all the camels
astray and Bell and Davis in search of them.
Thursday, May 15.