(fifty-three) necklaces, etc.; there was a considerable number more men
present in the morning but they had gone somewhere before the
distribution. They are a splendid lot of people and in most excellent
condition, much better than the appearance of the country here would
warrant. They appear friendly but were about during last night. A large
flight of galahs just passing. Gulls, pigeons, and ducks of all sorts
abound. It was my intention to have taken the cart round to examine the
lakes and creeks east and south of my present position; but as the
sandhills are rather large and steep I will do it with the camels and
horses, and merely today take the cart to a better place for camping
during the time I am engaged at this work, and more on the course I wish
to follow after this part of the work is finished. Marked tree at camp MK
(conjoined), 26, 27-12-61. Horses, bullocks, camels, sheep all right,
although dropped a lame ewe heavy in lamb last night which has not yet
been recovered. Started at 7.30 and went round northward one mile and
crossed creek at four miles; got to a pretty little lake Wattiwidulo.
Abundance of good feed and water; natives round the lake; but on going
about half mile to top of a small sandhill I then had opened to my view
an extensive basin of water forming part of the lake continuing far off
to south-west by south. A splendid sheet of water which I have named Lake
Hodgkinson after my second in command. Course today 338 degrees.
Immediately on arrival here was completely besieged by the natives, male
and female, young and old, for beads for necklaces which I distributed as
far as they went, but it has much reduced my supply and leaves but a
scanty remnant for the next lot we meet, as meet them we surely will in
such a country as this, affording them as it does such a supply of food.
I will proceed with a couple of camels and some horses to the eastward a
short distance to examine some lakes and creeks reported to be in that
quarter, and will leave the remainder of the party in camp here till my
return. The country travelled over today though a short distance was very
good--plenty of grass on the sandhills of a good sort. Although that
veteran explorer Sturt must have passed not far from this in his last
attempt to gain the centre of the continent he reported to have only
fallen in with, or had reason to believe, there were but few natives. How
the large body of people that is scattered all over this part could have
escaped him I cannot account for. Go where you will you will find them in
groups of fifties and hundreds, and often many more, and generally a
jolly lot of fellows and all in capital condition. As has been noticed by
former explorers the females in number amongst the children are much
greater than the males, but neither very numerous. Amongst the adults
(both sexes) they knock out the four front teeth of the upper jaw; but
there are others both male and female that are quite perfect, more here
than noticed anywhere else on the journey. Killed a sheep on arrival here
today to jerk for our coming journey to the east, but was so fat that the
small flock had to be examined for a poorer one for that purpose. That
does not speak badly of the part of the country we are now in.
Sunday, December 29.
Camp at Wattiwidulo, or Lake Hodgkinson. Just where we are encamped by it
it does not appear to be deep, but to the south and west I fancy there is
a good deal of water. Wind south-west and exceedingly hot and sultry. In
the afternoon an old man arrived here from our old depot and reported
that a party of whites had arrived at the late depot with a number of
horses and were on their way this course from the settled districts. What
faith to put in the report it is difficult to say. Ready to start east in
the morning.
Monday, December 30.
Sky very much overcast and very sultry; wind from north-east. Started at
8.10 with two camels and five horses and a week's provisions. At four and
a half miles got to Appambarra, near old camp at the dray crossing. At
8.45 arrived at about one mile west of dry lake Toondowlowannie; centre
bearing of lake north and south, three miles, by a width east and west of
one and a half miles; well grassed. At ten and a quarter miles passed
south end of lake and travelled on flooded ground on west side of
Cariderro Creek, in which there is water, to where we cut the Cariderro
Creek, about sixteen miles, at a place in the creek where the large creek
branches off east and fills a large lake now dry; abundance of feed. Lake
called Marcourgannie and found water in creek--a short distance south,
from which quarter it appears to come--it is a splendid gum creek, from
eighty to one hundred yards wide and fifteen to twenty feet deep, and
flows a northward course. Started after spelling a time and went one and
a quarter miles on bearing of 239 degrees to Appadarannie, now a dry lake
with abundance of good feed in its bed; then went south by east eight
miles along the Cariderro Creek. It is a splendid one and well lined with
fine gumtrees, and as far as we went I may say was one continuous sheet
of water, and with not less than from 200 to 300 natives. I have named it
Browne Creek after W.H. Browne, Esquire. Many of the natives have
apparently quite white hair and beards; they were particularly anxious
that we should encamp with them; they were the first tribe that we fell
in with so fully armed, every man with a shield and a lot of boomerangs
and some with spears. I thought it better not to camp there as they had a
good deal of sneaking and concealing themselves from bush to bush, and
might have brought about a disturbance, which I did not desire. Took some
water in air bags and started out from the creek one and a quarter miles;
then on a bearing of 5 degrees for Appacalradillie lake, seven miles
fully. Crossed and camped on east corner of dry lake Marcourgannie, and
on the margin of the dry lake Merradaboodaboo; the bulk of this last lake
bearing north from this and splendidly grassed.
Tuesday, December 31.
Started at 6.30 a.m. to Appacalradillie lake, through side of Lake
Merradaboodaboo; passed several flooded flats proceeding east from
last-named dry lake--the first of which was an extensive one, passing on
our course from left round to the right and apparently round to south as
far as visible, then over alternate and indifferent flats and large
sandhills--a considerable deal of flooded land to the westward. At
fifteen miles arrived on top of a very prominent sandhill which I have
named Mount MacDonnell, from which hill opens out to our view two
beautiful lakes which, in honour of her Ladyship and His Excellency the
present Governor of South Australia, I have named respectively Lake
Blanche and Lake Sir Richard, separated by a small sandy rise through
which passes a small channel that connects them, and which I have named
New Year's Straits.
Wednesday, January 1, 1862.
Started at 6.45 round the first lake, Blanche (Lady MacDonnell) to where
the creek passes through a low sandhill and connects it with the other
lake, Sir Richard (His Excellency the Governor). The first-named of these
lakes is, where it was tried, between five and six feet deep and seven
and three-quarter miles in circumference, nearly circular, bare of
timber, and tens of thousands of pelicans on it, one solitary swan, with
innumerable other birds, gulls and ducks of various kinds (one new and
one dark brown large-winged), cormorants, avocats, white spoonbills,
crows, kites, pigeons and magpies of various kinds, and plenty of fish.
The other lake immediately adjoins and its south-east end is more to the
eastward than Lake Blanche, it is nearly circular and is six and
three-quarter miles in circumference, but when casually tried was not
quite five feet deep; pelicans, birds of kinds, fish, etc., as the other.
Between forty and fifty men (natives) came to meet us as we were passing
round the lakes at the creek, which they had all to swim and, from the
appearance of the camp some short distance off, there could not have been
less than about 150, all apparently friendly. Started from north-west end
of Lake Sir Richard and went along the course of the creek that fills
these lakes on a bearing of 305 degrees for ---- miles; then
south-south-west half a mile to a fine basin of water in the valley of
the creek, three-quarters of a mile wide and more than that in length,
and opening again and contracting alternately up to Lake Blanche which,
in honour of the veteran explorer, I have named Sturt's Ponds; abundance
of fish and fowls. From this point course 308 degrees up the creek for
four miles; at two miles a creek went off to the right through a flooded
flat, thence on a course varying from 224 to 239 degrees, principally
through what was recently a large lake--now a splendidly-grassed plain of
vast extent, and at the latter part a few small sandhills. Distance today
thirty-six miles.
Thursday, January 2.
At camp and keeping the New Year instead of yesterday. It is quite a
treat to sit on the banks of this fine sheet of water and look at the
innumerable waterfowl on its surface chasing their prey.
Friday, January 3.
Heavy dew. Started out this morning with two camels and five horses to
examine some lakes and creeks to west and south of this position; I take
with me Mr. Hodgkinson, Middleton, Wylde, and native. On my return intend
moving camp to north and east to where I saw the creek bearing off to the
right or north-east from about two miles north-west of Sturt's Ponds;
which creek I am led to believe runs off into the interior by north on
the round by west and south, passing my old depot, Lake Buchanan. On
second thoughts I have moved camp to a better place on this lake, north,
on the opposite side, where there is better shade, and the glare of the
sun less injurious to the eyes of the party than here. Marked tree MK
(conjoined) from 28-12-61, to 3-1-62, and started to examine the lakes
reported to be south and west. At six miles arrived on opposite side of
where we camped for the last few days, and estimate its circumference at
fifteen to sixteen miles, its greatest breadth two miles, its least about
600 yards--at a promontory that runs into it from the south-east side. A
large creek fills it from south-east, about two and a half to three miles
west-south-west from our New Year camp which I have named Hayward, after
Frederick Hayward, Esquire, of Aroona, South Australia--a deep swimmable
creek, well timbered, plenty of fish and fowls--then went southward to
Lake Wattygaroony, a fine deep lake which is named Lake Strangways after
the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands. The creek that fills it
from the south and east I have called the Alfred. The lake is quite nine
miles in circumference; scant of timber; from the creek round south-west
end and side; abundance of feed, etc., from north side of lake and one
mile north-westerly of clearing it; our new camp on Lake Hodgkinson bears
71 degrees. About eight miles; returned to camp same day.
Saturday, January 4.
Camp, Lake Hodgkinson. Shoeing horses, repairing pack-bags, etc.
Sunday, January 5.
I, with Poole and a black, went out north to see what the country was
like. On bearing 360 degrees over sandhills arrived at and found lake
dry; four and a half miles of stones around it, same as in stony desert;
went through the middle of it, it sweeps round from north-east to
south-west; passed through it where it was two miles broad, it is fed
from Lake Goonalcarae (now dry); the lake passed through has not had a
supply of water for years apparently; lots of dead mussels and crayfish
in its bed. At two and a half miles further (nine miles in all) over
sandhills, changed course to 16 degrees for a large sandhill in the
distance, the country to the north being rather low. At two and a half
miles on this course came upon a succession of flooded basins, some of
great extent, Gnatowullie, and slightly lined with stunted box, some as
high up the sides of the sandhills as forty-five to fifty feet, entirely
supplied by the rains but have not had a supply for some time, as there
was neither water nor vegetation; which flooded basins continued till I
went nine miles on this last course and from the top of the hill could
distinctly see the beds of innumerable others of the same kind. From west
round to north-east and east some dark-peaked sandhills, north-east of
last course, as far as I could discern with the aid of a glass; turned
back on course of 200 degrees to where I saw some shady box trees about
two and a half miles, and turned out horses to rest and went to camp
direct. On bearing of 187 degrees at five and a half miles came to the
watercourse that supplies the dry lake Marroboothana from Goonalcarae,
which I have named the Ellar, and the creek that fills it, in which there
is at present water, Ellar's Creek.
Monday, January 6.
Marked tree MK (conjoined), from 3 to 6-62, Dig arrow at 7 o'clock, and
deposited a document in tin envelope for the search parties from the
north coast. Started at 6.30 with the bullock-cart, the horses and camels
following, for Lakes Lady Blanche and Sir Richard, for the purpose of
following the creek I observed when there the other day, and which the
natives inform me goes northward, then westward and southward, through
the stony desert. Arrived about 3.30 by rather a circuitous route to the
northward of our proper course, but was guided that way to avoid many
heavy sandhills. Distance between twenty-two and twenty-three miles.
Tuesday, January 7.
At Lake Blanche; went out north with Mr. Hodgkinson and native to examine
the creek alluded to, but to my disappointment found that it only formed
a large valley and, at some distance on a dry lake, Millie Millie, to the
eastward of Lake Sir Richard, over some high sandhills; returned very
much chagrined and have made up my mind to stay here a short time,
although very poor shelter from the excessive heat of the sun (today even
it blows as if from a furnace) and endeavour with the camels to ascertain
the description of country first to the east, and probably also from
here, if the camels will stand it, to the north; from the appearance of
the country about here I do not expect any water at least for some
distance; the land low, hills between the two lakes and running northward
for some five or six miles have just the appearance of dirty drift snow
heaps with heath bushes protruding; whereas those round to north-east,
east, south, and south-east are a glaring red, with coarse grass and
shrubs. Shortly after my return today a number of natives got the
bullocks on the east side of the creek New Year Straits, about two and a
half miles from camp and raced them round Lake Blanche from us in sight;
on seeing which five of the party got mounted and armed and went after
them; they had taken the bullocks two-thirds of the way round the lake
and by some means they broke back from them; they did their best to
overtake and turn them again for about two or three miles; when they
observed the horsemen they immediately took to flight, and where shelter
was so abundant, of course, were immediately out of reach and sight of
the horsemen. What their intentions were was difficult to say but it
looked rather suspicious; took the bullocks to camp late and hobbled most
of them. The evening before leaving Lake Hodgkinson, about 8.30 p.m.,
they took both horses and bullocks and raced them round from us for about
three miles but were pursued on foot by three of the party who succeeded
in getting all the bullocks and horses after having broken three-fourths
of their chains, and were in a very excited state, nor could the horses
be quieted for more than two hours afterwards, but the wary savage was
nowhere to be seen.
Wednesday, January 8.
Moved camp about three-quarters of a mile to a little wood and camped.
Fearfully hot, wind east-north-east.
Thursday, January 9.
Camp, Lake Blanche, between the two lakes, where one would imagine the
breeze from such a body of water would render the air cool, but the heat
is almost intolerable. Wind from east-north-east to east-south-east blew
quite a gale in the night, levelling tents, etc., to the earth,
accompanied with a good deal of thunder and lightning and slight spitting
of rain for a few minutes, when it ceased. The gale kept on for two and a
half hours and gradually died away.
Friday, January 10.
Camp, Lake Blanche. One would suppose that after so much thunder and
lightning the air would be more pure and cool, but nothing of the kind
was apparent, nothing but intense heat, prostrating all the animals.
Horses and sheep taking refuge from the intense rays of the sun round and
under such bushes or trees they could get till the cool of the evening.
Wind light easterly. I sincerely wish we had a change of the weather,
warmer it cannot get, so that the change must be for the better, and
enable us to be doing something. This is far from the most agreeable
position for a camp for, although we have any quantity of water, we have
no shade, and the glare reflected from the low light-coloured sandhills
and flats is very trying to the eyes; even the natives who are a numerous
body here (150 to 200) scarcely stir out, except morning and evening for
fishing, fish being their chief sustenance with addo, Burke's nardoo.
Saturday, January 11.
Sun rose red as a ball of fire. We had a magnificent sunset last night;
wind chopping all round the compass; intense heat; fleecy clouds.
Sunday, January 12.
Camp, Lake Blanche. Before daylight a considerable deal of thunder and
lightning. Squally but passed off without any rain. Cloudy during the
day. Wind from all quarters, heat intense, and sultry towards evening,
threatened much for rain; wind from east to north-east, accompanied with
thunder and lightning. I sincerely trust that we may have a good fall of
it, if it comes at all. Rain all blew past and wind chopping in all
directions.
Monday, January 13.
Wind from all quarters but rather more cool than for the last few days.
If nothing particular occurs before tomorrow morning will make a start
out eastward for fifty or sixty miles to see what sort of country it is,
and if there is any main creek running north up through it. It is very
calm towards evening with heavy clouds all round the horizon.
Tuesday, January 14.
Eastward today over undulations, sandhills, claypans, and flats for
nineteen miles till we reached a very prominent high hill which I have
called Mount Wylde. A considerable range is visible to east and south of
east. Went on for seven miles further over sand ridges covered with
spinifex, successive box-covered flooded flats, formed by heavy rains,
through which were innumerable small creeks no doubt in heavy rains
forming source or tributaries to Cooper's Creek. Took the horses out this
morning to make the work lighter for the camels on the march. Sent the
horses back again this afternoon; gave the camels from three to four
gallons of water each--they appeared as if they could have drunk all that
we possessed. Distance travelled today about twenty-six miles. East in
the far distance I can trace the continuance of the range.
Wednesday, January 15.
Every appearance of a hot day. Followed over hard sand undulations,
well-grassed with some little spinifex intermixed, with a creek on our
left, and crossed it at eight miles going south-east then apparently
south--gum and box on creek and a sandy bed. We then passed over some
good grassed country with stony flats and latterly a stony sandhill, the
ascent difficult for the camels on account of the sharp stones for ten
miles; distance making in all eighteen miles. Low hills about six or
seven miles ahead running north and south; nothing very marked about
them. The heat fearful; camels not doing so well as I could wish so will
give them all the water that is to spare and proceed towards camp this
evening in the cool--they won't feed nor stay without constant watching.
Started back at 8.30 p.m. Went first to the south of west to avoid a
stony hill by going round a valley then went on for about fifteen miles.
Thursday, January 16.
Started at 6 a.m., then bore for Mount Wylde. The greater portion of last
night's and today's journey was over spinifex country. Passed immediately
after starting a couple of creeks, drainage to the north--whether they
continued that course and gradually swerved to the east and joined a
larger one under the main range to east and formed one and passed on to
the southward to Cooper's Creek, or formed rainwater lakes (vast numbers
of them here and well timbered and often visited by natives) I cannot
pretend to say. From Mount Wylde came in on the lakes on our outward
track and arrived at camp at 2 p.m. Found some of the party, namely Bell,
Davis, and Maitland, laid up with dysentery, the former seriously. Have
made up my mind to leave this after one day's spell for the camels and go
back to different water, as this must contain some medicinal properties
that I am ignorant of, and affects all of us more or less; no doubt the
weather has a good deal to do with it--the heat is fearful.
Friday, January 17.
Wind east by north. If nothing particular occurs will start from this in
the morning as I see nothing can be done here but going north for some
distance, and that I can do from where I proceed tomorrow as well as from
here, and with better water for the party. Excessively hot and sultry
today and very cloudy. We have more or less lightning every day or night
and it appears occasionally to be raining all round us but never gives us
a benefit. Blew strong from south-east all night. Marked tree MK
(conjoined), fm. 6 to 18-1-62.
Saturday, January 18.
Wind from south-east. Bell very little improved, the rest much better.
Bullocks up and yoked before sunrise. It appears to be gathering all
round for rain but as usual I suppose will pass off without our being
favoured with any. The natives lately have hardly ever visited the camp;
I suppose their curiosity was satiated after the first few days, and when
they found they could not drive off the animals without being heard or
observed, and the probable consequences, they thought proper to keep
aloof. Start this morning for Goonalcarae Creek, or Ellar's Creek, where
there is abundance of fine feed, water, and protection from the excessive
heat of the sun. Bullocks start at 7 a.m.; passed on our right the
recently-dried bed of a very nice lake, and so deceptive was it from its
appearance some distance off that even the natives insisted that there
was still water in it, but there was not any. The lake I have called
Deception--it is a nice lake and retains water for a very long time. I
pushed on through the flooded and well-grassed bed of Goonalcarae, or
Ellar's Swamp. First went on a westerly course then on a southerly to the
creek, but did not admire the water which was neither abundant nor sweet,
although there were innumerable birds and some natives there. Went on to
Lake Hodgkinson and was astonished to find it so much dried up in only
twelve days, that being the time since we left it, and the water now
quite bitter; then went on to Hayward's Creek that fills Lake Hodgkinson,
and there found abundance of everything that we required--feed, water,
wood, and shelter from the broiling sun. The dray did not get this length
but camped on east end of lake, and obtaining for their use water, by
digging, at four feet from the surface, good and clear; the cart will
come on here in the morning and I shall remain here till there is a
change in the weather as it is fearfully trying; there has been a shower
on our course since we passed on our way to Lakes Blanche and Sir
Richard, but nothing of any consequence. The horses were more done up
today than I have yet seen them from the oppressive heat.
Sunday, January 19.
Dray came in about noon; a considerable number of natives here on creek.
Monday, January 20.
Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind very strong from north-east to south-east.
Tuesday, January 21.
Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind chopping all round; heavy rain apparently to
the north and north-east, but little of it came this way; gave the native
who has been with us so long an old ewe to distribute amongst his
friends.
Wednesday, January 22.