and lasted till 8.15 a.m., when it cleared off, still appearing to rain
to north-east and west of this. Clear to the south with the wind from
latter quarter; during remainder of the day weather cleared up in all
quarters with a south wind, although a good many clouds are flying about.
Went round the lake to see what quantity of water was likely to be in the
claypans where it fell the heaviest yesterday; there is not so much as I
expected but still I will start out north tomorrow to ascertain the
nature of the country and see if there be any watercourse in that
direction that may hereafter be of use to parties wishing to pass to the
north coast; but from what I saw to the east, and the country between
that and this, I have very little hope of anything of the kind, but
believe there is a creek to the westward of this that either comes from
or goes to a latitude beyond and east of Sturt's furthest.
Thursday, January 23.
Started out at 11.30 a.m.; got to the top of a sandhill on north side of
Lake Hodgkinson about six miles from camp; camp bearing about 175
degrees; passed (dry) Lake Marraboothana; then through flats and basins,
a large one cutting our course. Changed course and came to a dry creek
called Pantyhwurladgie; then on a bearing of 284 degrees over stony
desert for a large sandhill; a little water back about two miles from
whence we shall have to send for it amongst the stones. Total distance
travelled about thirty-three miles; to the north-east and south all
stones, but sandhills bound the two latter quarters; beyond the
termination of large sandhill there is nothing visible. To the west is a
succession of sandhills running north and south, and terminating in
desert and stony plains. Round to 348 degrees; in the distance are to be
seen some terminations of inconsiderable sandhills.
Friday, January 24.
The country being short of water I merely go out today to return
tomorrow; leaving here all the rations I intended for the journey
northward, which for the present I had abandoned with the intention at a
more suitable time to try it. Natives are with me but they declare it to
be all dry; but I cannot rely on their statements at all times. The
water, our supply for today, is about two miles off in the desert; our
journey being over a succession of very high sandhills and stony flooded
flats; skirting, for the first three-quarters of an hour, the desert to
this spot, with a large red-topped sandhill on our right which terminates
close by; have not seen a drop of water during the day and camp without
it. I return tomorrow early for the last water which will be nearly dried
up by the time I reach it. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles.
Tops of all the hills to north-east and east are very red, quite free
from vegetation on tops and some with spinifex on their sides. To north,
termination of sandhills with stony flats; north-west, unbroken horizon;
from west-north-west round towards south-west a sandhill in the distance;
altogether a dreary spot. A heavy-timbered creek comes in from south-west
into the desert and appears in the distance to have a tributary from
east-south-east; the timber ceases as it comes on to the open desert
plain between four and five miles from this. Quite an unbroken horizon to
the west of north-west for some distance. The sandhills that are in view
are small and detached.
Saturday, January 25.
Started back and got to water just in time to give the horses about half
as much as they could drink and a little for ourselves; rapid evaporation
has taken place since we left yesterday, for then there was enough for
100 horses, now there is not half enough for our eight; so must make for
one of the permanent waters south of this tomorrow; have to close-hobble
our horses and tie their heads down to them to prevent them straying too
far. Strong breeze from the southward.
Sunday, January 26.
Started at 7 a.m. for Coonhadie, a rainwater watering-place in desert,
but found it quite dry; start for camp, Hayward's Creek, and arrived at 1
p.m.; distance about twenty-nine and a quarter miles direct from place to
place, but we made it more, being obliged to go round to avoid sandhills
and rounding Lake Hodgkinson. The horses stood much in need of water and
seemed to enjoy it much, from quantity they drank and the time they took
about it. It was fortunate for us that the weather was cool for the
season of the year. Wind south and east; found all right at the camp and
the men that were ailing much improved. The water in the creek is
diminishing gradually, about three-quarters of an inch per day.
Monday, January 27.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly. Natives very much displeased at our
remaining here but until the weather suits my purpose better than it does
at present they must put up with it.
Tuesday, January 28.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind east and south, very hot. Several of the
party still complaining, the cause of which is difficult to say as the
water in the creek appears good and there is plenty of it. The water in
the creek is between five and six miles long. There is a lake or swamp
rapidly drying up close by, from which there is a very disagreeable odour
when the wind is from that quarter; the ailing may proceed from the
malaria arising from that place; other waters in the immediate
neighbourhood drying up fast. Natives in a great state of excitement
today, wishing to inform me that the flood, or arimitha, was coming down
and that we must get out of this or we should be drowned (I only wish it
would come) stating that it had now reached as far as a place I know
well, so tomorrow will make it my business to ride over that length to
the south and east to Browne's Creek to ascertain the truth or otherwise
of this information.
Wednesday, January 29.
Wind north and east. Started with Middleton to ascertain if the flood is
really coming down or not; followed this creek round my way and was quite
astonished at the number of natives I saw--they must have been
considerably over three hundred--and I am satisfied that I did not see
them all as I did not go quite up to their camp; we had no conception
that there were any such numbers so close to us, a distance of only some
six or seven miles. There are myriads of fish of various kinds. There was
a camp close by till yesterday, within less than half a mile, but I never
saw more than one hundred in it at one time--averaging from forty to
sixty. They pass our camp with their nets to drag the creek between this
and the lake, and come back loaded with the denizens of the creek; they
are not at all liberal with them. I should be sorry to trust to their
hospitality or generosity as I think they possess but little of either of
those qualities. Arrived at Browne's Creek, at the place named by natives
for the arrival of the flood, but found their tale false--they saw me on
my way there and I suppose knew my errand--some of shallowest waters in
the upper holes of the creek had dried up since I saw them last but there
is abundance lower down.
Thursday, January 30.
Wind east. Camp, Hayward's Creek. Natives kept much aloof today, I
suppose in consequence of my finding their piece of gratuitous
information false. Self and all the party affected with griping and
vomiting with the exception of Middleton and Davis. Cannot make out the
cause; I wish it would rain that I could start through the desert out of
this and get on to the waters to north and west of this, and be doing
something, as this sort of life is worse than hard work on the
constitution. There is one thing, this detention here has enabled us to
have the backs of the working animals attended to better than we could
otherwise have done, and they are all on splendid feed, but the flies and
excessive heat of the sun is very much against the healing of any kind of
sores or wounds. I had occasion to bleed several of the horses and, from
the mere incision caused by the fleam, the necks of several swelled up
very much although every precaution was adopted.
Friday, January 31.
Started out to pick an easy track for the cart towards Moolianbrooana
Lake; found a pretty good one on to the old cart tracks which will do;
went then to ascertain how the waters were standing in Caunboogonannie,
or Lake Jeannie, and found that, although there was still a very
considerable quantity in the lake from the vast number of waterfowl upon
it, and perhaps other causes, it had acquired a disagreeable taste, and I
have no doubt that it will get quite unfit for use in a month or so if it
does not receive a fresh supply during that time. From a hole dug about
eighteen inches from the water's edge I had a drink and a pot of tea of
excellent water; lots of natives round and in the lake, although round
the margin I observed innumerable small fish (parrow) dead, washed in by
the wind and ripple of the lake. Our horses did not seem to admire the
water but that I am not astonished at.
Saturday, February 1.
Hayward's Creek. Wind east; party still ailing.
Sunday, February 2.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Some of party better and some worse. Wind
easterly.
Monday, February 3.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly; digging a well, in case the origin
of our sickness be caused by the water in the creek.
Tuesday, February 4.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind north and gusty with hot puffs. Got the well
down about fifteen feet; the lower part, for about seven or eight feet,
chiefly through sand; abundance of water but salt to the taste and I
think unfit for use. Had it emptied out when it soon filled; the water
continues salt and lathers well with soap and can wash well; it cannot be
used by us although the natives don't despise it.
Wednesday, February 5.
Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind from east and west of north during the
morning with hot gusts, very oppressive.
Thursday, February 6.
Camp, at Hayward's Creek. Wind north till late in the afternoon with some
thunder and lightning and a good many clouds; appears in the distance to
be raining in patches, but I have so often been deceived that I now take
less notice of appearances of that kind; late in the afternoon the wind
chopped round to south. Has been very hot and sultry all day. Intend in
the morning to send Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie
to ascertain for certain if that lake still contains abundance of water,
and good, as I think it does--and on the way to pass and examine Lake
Moolionboorana to see if it will suit as a stage to camp at on our
journey to Goonaidringinne, as it was not very deep when I was there last
and I have my doubts about it. The natives report a considerable quantity
of rain to have fallen to the east and towards north-east in the country
north of Lakes Blanche and MacDonnell or Appacalradillie. If so I wish it
had fallen when I was there that I might have been able to have examined
the country there thoroughly.
Friday, February 7.
Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie. Wind from
all points of compass with many clouds; weather disagreeable and sultry
during the day; rained steadily once or twice during the night with a
good deal of thunder and lightning in the distance; much rain must have
fallen to east and north of east as well as to the south.
Saturday, February 8.
Splendid rain and steady. Thundering all round with every appearance of a
considerable quantity of rain which will, I trust, come in such abundance
as to enable me to push to the north-west across the desert, as up to
this time I have been completely shut up, as it were, here for want of a
decent shower to enable me to do anything of service anywhere; and the
provisions gradually getting less although the ration is now as low as I
can well make it. I have reduced it first from 8 pounds of flour per man
per week to 7 pounds, then to 6 pounds, then to 4 1/2 pounds; sugar
reduced from 2 pounds per man per week to 1 1/2 pounds; and tea from 4
ounces to 3 ounces per man per week, with plenty of good mutton; but we
find the supply of flour very scanty at the 4 1/2 pounds. There has been
a good deal of loss in weight in the bags of flour, as much as 9 pounds
per 100 pounds; and a great portion of it had a most disagreeable taste
and flavour from some naphtha, or some such liquid, having been
carelessly allowed to be spilt over it on its way, I understand, from
Port Augusta to Blanchewater; and I attribute the whole of the illness of
the party to the use of the flour saturated as it is by this rascally
stuff. In the afternoon Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton returned; they
report having seen a considerable quantity of rainwater about thirteen
miles this side of Lake Goonaidringinnie, and plenty of water in that
lake and good; also plenty of natives on its banks. Lake Moolionboorana
very much reduced and unfit for my purpose. Heavy rain all through the
night with heavy thunder and lightnings. I have now abandoned the idea of
going to Goonaidringinnie and will start towards Eyre's Creek, passing or
following, at some seventy miles from this, a large creek named by the
natives here Panbacra.
Sunday, February 9.
Still raining a little and the ground too soft to travel over but, if
much more does not fall, will start in the morning. The rain that has
fallen is quite a godsend, both to this party and to the natives who have
started off to the sandhills in all directions to obtain the lizards and
other animals that escape to the sandhills for protection from the
floods.
Monday, February 10.
Started the cart at 7.50 a.m., and horses and camels to start afterwards
for Wattiegoroonita. Passed over sandhills to top of a sandhill that
rounds the lake, and over alternate sandhills and bare flats for nine and
a half miles, passing at about six miles on the last course a small salt
lake; travelled on the north-east side of it as it was boggy. The lake is
called Warmagoladhailie. The ground very soft and heavy travelling.
Travelled along the sand ranges and over spinifex and stony flooded
flats, then over one small sandhill and stony desert. Camped at a few
bushes to boil the teakettle, there being not a blade of grass; but a few
saltbushes are near which the animals must do the best with for one
night. Astonishing the small quantity of water passed for the last eight
or nine miles. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. The natives
are out here looking for the snakes and other small reptiles and animals
that live in the sandhills everywhere in this quarter whether hot or
cold, regardless of the want of water. This is a most dismal-looking
camp; there are a few isolated sandhills north and west of this. Cart and
sheep not up tonight.
Tuesday, February 11.
The cart did not arrive last night as above-mentioned for the reason that
one of the bullocks was taken with the staggers. They camped about two
and a half miles back and arrived here this morning at 5.45 a.m.; turned
the bullocks out for a time to get a drink and pick a few bushes, and
started again at 7.48. Travelled for nine miles over desert stony plains
and got to top of large sandhill. This hill is called Cannacannanthainya.
Some distance off another sandhill called Mallapoorponannie; and another
not quite so far called Cookorda. Another long leading sand range in the
distance called Goontyaerie, at the northern termination of which is at
present a dry creek known by the above name. There is a native well there
and another a little further west. To give the ailing bullock, as he is a
good one, a chance of recruiting, I have dipped down the sandhill and
camped at 11.35 a.m., and for another reason, it looks like rain. During
the afternoon several nice showers.
Wednesday, February 12.
Steady rain for about four hours last night and this morning breaks fine
and clear with a wind north. Plenty of water lying all over the desert.
Dray started at 7.40 a.m. and at six and three-quarter miles distant got
to Mallapoorponannie sand range, the southern end of which is called
Cookorda; about two miles off its northern end dwindles down to nothing
in the desert. To the northern end of Coontarie sand range a creek and
well by the same name; about twelve miles off a detached sand range in
the desert, at the north-west end of which are two waters named
respectively Dhooramoorco and Moongaara; also on north-east side of sand
range another water in creek called Caddryyerra, also a sand range about
four to five miles distant. There was a number of small detached
sandhills going round to the westward, then a perfect blank round to
Coontarie well. At about three to four miles struck the flooded flat from
the main creek I am now going to. At eleven and a half miles further came
to and crossed a deep creek crossing my course at rightangles. At two
miles further came to water in Daeragolie Creek, same creek that I
crossed before two miles from this; within this last two miles the whole
flat is cut up into innumerable channels most difficult to travel over, I
must therefore see and get a better road for the cart. Here there is not
a green blade of grass to be seen; there are some green shrubs in the bed
of the creek that the camels are fond of. I arrived at this camp at 2.5
p.m.; distance travelled today twenty-three and a half miles. This is an
immense creek, timbered on its bank with box, bean, and other trees, the
water is in detached holes but good and apparently plenty of fish and
ducks. No natives seen yet although their tracks are fresh; the natives
that are with me say a number of them have taken advantage of the rain
lately fallen and gone out to the sandhills on both sides of this creek.
By native report the creek flows just here south and east, but within two
miles from this it turns quite round by south-west and west, passing
Coontarie. Neither cart nor sheep arrived in camp tonight.
Thursday, February 13.
The cart on its way here this morning had an upset in one of the creeks
close by but fortunately little damage done. The road it appears to me
from this on our course is much better than we have come over, if so we
shall make good speed. I spell the remainder of today refreshing the
animals. This creek is about eighty to ninety yards wide, very
precipitous banks, and from fifty to sixty feet deep, with innumerable
small creeks. About 400 yards from this, above us, a large creek leaves
this one, heavily timbered and well-defined. Limestone crops out in many
places. It is from fifty to seventy yards wide and from fifteen to thirty
feet deep. It sweeps away to the west and south, close under some
sand-ridges that are close by. Wind from south and west, very sultry.
There has been a good deal of rain here lately (and from the appearance
of the country there has been none for some time previously). Nothing
green except in the bed of the creek and the trees. The whole country
looks as if it had been carefully ploughed, harrowed, and finally rolled,
the farmer having omitted the seed. Two natives came into our camp at
dark, apparently without any fear, and stayed with us for the night.
Friday, February 14.
Started at 8 a.m. On the west side of the creek Panbaera a large creek
leaves it at about 400 yards from camp, and the ground heavy, with
intense heat. I camped after a journey of fifteen and a half miles on
same side of creek, close to a deep waterhole in the creek. Name of creek
Toomathooganie. Immediately above the camp on opposite side of creek a
large red sandhill comes right on to creek called Manganhoonie, from the
top of which one gets an extensive view of such country as there is, the
creek in the distance, north, it filling the valley with its timber
bearing 340 degrees. On our way here today, about three miles from camp,
passed the remains of Burke's horse and saddle; they were recognised as
his by camel dung being about the camp. No marks on any of the trees
visible. Camel dung also close to our camp. Another of our best bullocks
was obliged to be left, having been struck down with the sun as the other
was a few days ago. Cart late in arrival at camp in consequence. One of
our natives took French leave immediately after getting to camp; the
other tried hard also but was too closely watched.
Saturday, February 15.
Started some hands back to see if the bullock was still alive, if so and
unable to travel, to kill him and have him jerked, and if dead to have
him skinned. They brought back word that he was still alive and might get
over it. Late getting ready to start owing to the uncertainty whether the
bullock was to be jerked or not. Bullocks started at 10.35 a.m., and if I
get feed must make a short day of it. If the road keeps as heavy as it
has done since coming to this creek I shall have to abandon the cart,
which for many reasons I shall regret. Wind north and disagreeable. Got
to camp at five miles bearing 337 degrees. The heat so oppressive
travelling completely out of the question. Will leave the cart and many
sundries here. Seized with a violent attack of dysentery. Our remaining
native quite broken-hearted at losing the other, shall be obliged to let
him go this afternoon; it is a pity as he would have been of much service
in giving me the names of the different waters and places which to
someone in future might be of much use. However I may get another if I
soon meet with other natives; but unfortunately at present, from the rain
that has lately fallen, they have principally left the creek and gone to
the sandhills. Their habitations are very numerous on the creek so they
must be pretty strong in number here. Lots of fish still in the holes;
appear to be multa multa principally. We got some from the two natives at
our first camp on the creek, and lots of mussel shells about their old
fires.
Sunday, February 16.
In camp, very ill.
Monday, February 17.
In camp, very ill; still getting the gear ready for tomorrow, if I am
able to start--pain slightly gone. Had the curiosity to weigh and found I
had lost fourteen pounds in three days from the violence of the attack;
when I left town I weighed fifteen stone eleven pounds, now I weigh
exactly twelve stone. Clear but excessively hot with occasionally a
little thunder and some showers this morning, and it looked as if we were
going to have it heavy but it passed off.
Tuesday, February 18.
With one thing and the other, and one of the bullocks absent, was late at
starting. Pain gone today but excessively weak. Started at 11.30, course
340 degrees; flooded box-cracked land for one mile. At seven and a half
miles further passing over bare mud plain destitute of any vegetation,
with a couple of sandhills and the main creek beyond them to the east. On
this distance half a mile off is the bed of a large creek flowing to the
south and west, no water at present in it. Close to this point one of our
best bullocks was struck dead with the heat of the sun walking leisurely
along carrying nothing; the rest of the party were much in advance and,
as it was such a fearfully hot day and not a drop of water near, nothing
could be done with the flesh of him unfortunately. At five miles further
came to a large deep creek flowing westward, no water in it. Up to this
point was to be seen in the distance westward apparent breaks in the
sandhills with box timber in each; and I have no doubt many of those
places form into large creeks by the terrific overflow of this main
creek. At one mile further on (340 degrees) crossing this creek on to top
of sandhill, changed course to 38 degrees, the creek from the sandhill
bearing considerably eastward. At two and a quarter miles over flooded
flats and at some rainwater where I afterwards camped; at two miles
further struck the creek but not a drop of water; searched up and down
for some distance but none to be found, so returned to the rainwater two
miles back from the creek, where fortunately there was sufficient for all
the animals. The flood here, when it does occur, fills the whole valley
between the sandhills on either side of the creek, and after such
occasions must appear a splendid country; but at present no country could
possibly look more desolate. This cannot possibly be Eyre's Creek as it
is much larger in the first place, and seems to bear away too much to the
east ever to be a continuation of Sturt's Eyre's Creek. Traces of Burke's
camels and horses are still to be seen on the creek; I fancy on his
return from the Gulf. I feel very ill this evening, hardly able to sit in
the saddle.
Wednesday, February 19.