overcast. Start out eastward to examine the country with two camels, five
horses, and sufficient food for one and a half weeks, taking with me
Middleton, Poole, Frank (a native), and a native of this place. My main
object in going out now is firstly to ascertain if there is a likelihood
of a flood down Cooper's Creek this season, after all the rain that has
fallen along the eastern side of the continent some months back, and
which I thought possible might have fallen as well on and to west of
coast range, so to secure to us an open retreat in the event of our being
able to make some considerable advance northward, and being detained some
time. And secondly to ascertain if anyone was as yet stationed on
Cooper's Creek, to intimate to them my intentions of proceeding northward
for some distance, and the almost certainty of crossing any track of
either of the search parties from the northern coast could possibly make
en route to Cooper's Creek or even Eyre's Creek. Started at 9.15 a.m.,
and passed through nothing but sandhill and flooded flat country till 3
p.m., and arrived at Tac Wilten Creek, containing little water but
drinkable. For the first few miles the sandhills were further apart with,
in the interval, salt-bush and grassy flats. Watered the horses and
camels; crossed the creek, passed up the south side; crossed a sandhill;
crossed the creek, went a short distance to north side of creek;
recrossed it and went up south side to water. This is a long narrow strip
of water, not deep and drying up fast. A number of natives here. Crossed
creek again and went to Aunrinnie; arrived at north-east end of water and
crossed creek at 4.30 p.m. Distance about twenty-five miles. The water
here although enough is quite unfit for use, the horses and camels
refusing it; but there is good green feed in the flat.
Tuesday, December 3.
Started at 8 a.m.; passed over sandhills till 8.43 and made large lake,
dry, Cullamun by name, destitute of vegetation and no margin of trees;
passed over sandhills and flooded flat to a creek very broad, deep, and
well defined by timber, and trending northward; not much water at
present, good here but unfit for use above and below, like that of last
night; creek called Agaboogana. Distance about eight miles. I went there
rather out of my course to water the camels, being the nearest in going
anything like the course I wished; passed sandhills through south end of
large dry lake at 11.22, and again sandhills; then through large flooded
swamp, Narrogoonnoo Mooku, with no marginal trees; southern end a good
deal of cane grass; then again sandhills till 12.46; then large cracked
flooded plain, Wandrabrinnannie, till arrived at a creek with no water;
crossed and rode up creek on south side to east of north to Barka Water,
no feed; got down into the bed of the creek and rode up about
three-quarters of a mile to a water called Moollaney, pretty good; no
great quantity and but little feed. Total distance about twenty-five
miles. A lot of stones of a fruit found here, of a very ornamental little
tree from six to fifteen feet high, which I have secured.
Wednesday, December 4.
At or rather before daylight Middleton, in attending to the camels,
unfortunately got his foot seriously injured by a considerable-sized
stick which was stuck in the ground; its end penetrating deeply into the
foot as he was returning to the camp down the steep bank. I am afraid I
will have to return with him; I have pulled out several ragged pieces of
wood from the wound; a lot of small tendons protrude. I will try one day
up the creek and see if he can stand it. Started at 9.40 leaving creek on
right; crossed small flooded flat to sandhill; then good low sandhills,
firm travelling; passed a water called Appomoremillia, about one and a
half miles to our right in the creek. Crossed creek in the centre of a
cracked flooded flat bearing to the north by west; passed over sandhills
and a heavy flooded cracked and timbered flat in which is a creek bearing
north-east with sandy hillocks and native wurlies. Bore south to creek
Goonnooboorroo with little water. Distance about sixteen miles today.
Middleton's foot pains him much.
Thursday, December 5.
Obliged to camp with Middleton. On a large gum tree marked MK (conjoined)
Dec. 4, 5, 1861. One large creek comes in here from the south; and
immediately below this about 100 yards another from same quarter.
Bronze-wing and crested pigeons here; also some beautiful parrots, black
ducks, teal, whistlers, painted widgeons, and wood-duck in small number;
also parakeets and quail. Some dry grass here on top of banks up to my
waist; further out there is some good tussocky grasses and there has been
plenty oats. Secured seeds from the bean tree and the stones of the fruit
before alluded to. Fish in water here, although there is only a small
quantity and drying up fast. In looking for the horses in the morning up
the main creek found, about three-quarters of a mile from this, where
Burke had camped in the bed and had dug for water. From the appearance of
their camp and quantity of camel dung he slept more than one night here.
I think when they camped there there was water both below and above; it
is now quite dry however. A small quantity of sewing twine was found at
this camp.
Friday, December 6.
Middleton's foot a little easier; thought of returning as he is quite
unfit for work, but have made up my mind now to go on and ascertain the
facts I went out to obtain. I therefore started at 8.25 a.m. for the
upper waters of the creek, keeping on the south bank; crossed several
creeks until 12 o'clock, when we found in the camp, a little above
Pardulli, a gum tree marked W.J. Wills, N.N.W., xlv. yds., A.H. Turned
out our horses here for some time; between the last crossing of the creek
and this I got a view of a couple of red sand bluffs and distant
sandhills, or hills of some kind, to north-west. Started from Wills's
grave at 4.10 and crossed creek; struck the creek again at 5.35 with
plenty of water to Howitt's camp, xxxii.; thence on to Burke's grave,
striking dry creek and following it to Yarrowanda; arrived here at 7.10
p.m.
Saturday, December 7.
Started at 7.7 a.m. and came to Burke's grave--about two miles on south
bank of creek. On the north-east side of a box tree, at upper end of
waterhole, native name Yaenimemgi, found marked on tree R.O'H.B.,
21-9-61., A.H. Deposited a document in case of the return of any party.
Saw a cobby horse on arrival here last night; tried to catch him. Saw the
tracks of cattle up the creek, short distance from him; they had gone
further up the creek to a water, Cullimuno. Spelled today.
Sunday, December 8.
Started back for camp; passed large numbers of natives; marked small gum
sapling MK roughly; made for heavy creek that joins another at
Strzelecki's Creek, and camped at a water called Tacdurrie, a small water
about two miles from Gooneborrow in the main creek. Distance travelled
today about twenty-seven and a half miles.
* * *
[COPY OF DOCUMENT LEFT AT COOPER'S CREEK, DATED 7TH DECEMBER, 1861.]
TO THE LEADER OF THE PARTY OUT FOR THE REMAINS OF THE LOST BURKE AND
WILLS, BUT MORE ESPECIALLY TO THE OFFICER IN CHARGE OF THE DEPOT LIKELY
TO BE FORMED ON THIS CREEK.
Sir,
I beg to state that I have had communication with Adelaide and have
received papers from there intimating the relief of King, the only
survivor of the Melbourne Gulf of Carpentaria party, and an announcement
that the Melbourne Government were likely to have the remains of the late
gentlemen removed from this creek to Melbourne, to receive a public
burial and monument to their memory, and at the same time stating their
intention of establishing a depot somewhere on this creek to await the
arrival of one or other of the parties (in search of the late Burke and
Wills) from Rockhampton, or the Albert, on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
I beg to state I am with my party stationed on a lake about eighty-five
miles westerly of this; and immediately on my return there I start
northward, and for the first part of my journey a little to east of
north, and will, at every suitable camp on my route, bury documents
conveying the intelligence meant to be conveyed to either of the parties,
by the depot party likely to be formed here, of the fate of the late
party; by which means they will be put in possession of the facts, and
can return to the Albert or go on through to Adelaide. There is at
present, and will be for some time to come, easy access to Adelaide by my
route, which the wheel tracks of my cart have clearly defined.
By this means of intimation to the parties in question it will relieve
the party to be stationed here from the necessity of passing a summer in
this hot region. My course will intersect any course either of the
parties out from the northward can make between Eyre's Creek and the late
Burke's depot on this creek.
I beg to remain, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
JOHN MCKINLAY,
Leader of the S.A.B.R. Expedition.
* * *
Monday, December 9.
Started at 7.25 a.m.; followed creek down and passed Goonaboorroo
waterhole; passed flooded cracked flats and sandhills to Molanny Creek.
Distance travelled today seventeen miles.
Tuesday, December 10.
Started and crossed creek at 7.30 a.m., over sandhills, then through bed
of large dry lake or swamp; name of swamp Wando Binannie; a good deal
cracked and bad travelling. From thence through low sandhills, flooded
box flats, steep sandhills; crossed Narro Dhaerrie swamp; crossed creek
at east end of main water; this drying up fast. Crossed creek twice and
camped on south side of lower end of Tac Welter.
Wednesday, December 11.
Started at 6.30; crossed creek and flat; over sandhills and flooded flat
with large saltbush and polygonum; timber to the right and some samphire
bushes; crossed my old single track, with alternate sandhills and cracked
flooded flats, and arrived at our depot camp on Lake Buchanan at 11 a.m.
Distance about nineteen miles.
Thursday, December 12.
Remain in camp; temperature at sunrise 68 degrees; wind east; 11.30 a.m.,
temperature 165 degrees in the sun out of the wind; very hot indeed and
wind north-east; dead calm at 6 p.m.; temperature 100 degrees; sun
overcast; temperature at sunset thermometer exposed to sun and wind 90
degrees.
Friday, December 13.
Dead calm at sunrise; temperature 64 degrees; at 7 a.m. wind north-east
temperature 102 degrees; at 9.15 wind north temperature 150 degrees in
the sun and out of the wind; at 10.30 temperature 158 degrees; at noon
hot; wind west; temperature 138 degrees; sunset light breeze from
south-west; temperature 95 degrees.
Saturday, December 14.
Started at 7.45 a.m.; crossed sandhills and timbered flat and creek
running north about 200 yards wide; passed end of very stunted box-tree
flat running parallel to our course and camped on creek with little
water.
Sunday, December 15.
Started at 8.8 a.m.; passed through long dry grass with scrubby box; then
flooded box flats to Paul Cooroogannie and reached depot at 6.5 p.m. It
blew quite a gale of wind during the day from south-south-west with dust
and a few drops of rain.
Monday, December 16.
Wind changed to east (strong); temperature at 7 a.m. 65 degrees; wind
moderated during the day. Making ready to start tomorrow.
Tuesday, December 17.
Deposited memos to Chief Commissioner of Crown Lands and finders of
deposits under a tree here marked MK (conjoined) from Oct. 20 to Dec. 17,
1861. Dig arrow at 1 o'clock. Bullock dray started at 8.30 a.m., eight
bullocks in team and three loose; crossed north end of swamp; then small
sandhills; then creek or watercourse cutting my course at rightangles;
passed south end of considerable-sized flooded flat, connected by
last-named watercourse. Pole of cart just broken. Left cart and proceeded
with some of party to Goonyanie Creek. Great difficulty in getting a
suitable stick for the pole; sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Palmer with the
bullocks back to our late camp on Coodygodyannie to get a pole there if
possible; left bullocks there for the night. They returned unsuccessful.
Hunted Goonyanie Creek up and down myself with but indifferent result,
but must cut one such as is to be found and make shift with it till a
better can be procured. A great number of natives here; the creek
northward ceases one quarter mile from this and loses itself on a
polygonum plain--no doubt forms again. South of this it continues for
about one and a half to two miles and is lost on flooded flat. There
appears to be a great quantity of fish here; some very fine ones being
caught this afternoon, one of which must have weighed from four to five
pounds (a perch). Although the water here is very much reduced since I
was here about the middle of October the water in two holes is yet pretty
deep; no great quantity of grass here.
Wednesday, December 18.
Natives walking about greater part of last night. Two of them came into
camp, one of whom was known and allowed to remain; the other (a stranger)
was started at once. At their camp, which was about one hundred yards
off, they kicked up a great row for a long time. Started Mr. Hodgkinson
with Palmer and a native to Lake Coodygodyannie for the bullocks, and
Davis and Wylde out to the broken cart (about three miles off) with
water, on two camels, for the party left in charge of it, namely Kirby
and Maitland, today increased by Wylde on account of so many natives. The
bullocks duly arrived during the day, having gone back to the old camp.
Immediately proceeded to cut such a pole as was to be had here, and took
it out to the dray to be got in readiness to suit as well as possible the
purpose required, and returned to camp with the bullocks.
Thursday, December 19.
During the night a native dog came up to the sheepfold and was shot by
Frank (a native). The natives, encamped a short distance from here,
hearing the report of the gun, immediately took to flight and with them
the native Bullingani who was of so much use to me; however another is
easily got. Some of them returned in the morning. Temperature during
afternoon in sun 145 degrees. Was unable to get dray ready early enough
to go a stage, but brought it in here in the afternoon, ready for an
early start tomorrow morning.
Friday, December 20.
Marked a tree on north bank MK (conjoined), Dec. 17, 18, 19, 1861.
Temperature at sunrise 78 degrees. Sky completely overcast. Found Frank
asleep on duty and reprimanded him, when he became saucy and sulky and
determined to return to settled districts. Settled with him to date. He
was twelve weeks with us and received an order for 6 pounds, being the
amount due to him at the rate of ten shillings per week. Started and
passed through flats till we came to a creek where we stopped for a short
time; crossed creek to the margin of a lake bed containing some water.
Went north some distance to get round the lake to where the creek is dry.
This creek fills this lake--Goonaidrangannie. Camped on north-east end at
1 p.m. There are a great number of natives here; the water appears very
deep. Mr. Hodgkinson swam out about 300 yards with a plumb-line and found
the depth 10 1/4 feet; but further south and east it is much deeper. This
lake must be at times a great rendezvous for natives in extreme drought.
One of our best working bullocks, before he came ten miles, was killed by
the heat although, after getting to camp at 1 p.m., the thermometer was
tried and the greatest heat arrived at was 144 degrees. I was not aware
that the bullock was dead until the arrival of the cart later in the
afternoon. The driver, seeing he was much exhausted, had him and the one
and the one yoked with him turned out of the team, and went on a short
distance and sent back for them, however, shortly after, when the animal
was found quite dead--consequently we were unable to secure any of him
for food as it would not keep; but at daylight in the morning I will send
for his hide as it will be much needed. He will be a serious loss to us
out in such a country where we require a spare bullock to spell another
occasionally. A good deal of thunder and great indications for rain, but
blows off with only a few drops; quite a hot wind and altogether has been
a very disagreeable day. Wind from north.
Saturday, December 21.
Started three men out to skin the bullock and bring in the hide. Wind
south; sky overcast but hardly expect rain. Tree marked MK (conjoined),
20-12-61 on south side. The men returned with the hide at 8.10 a.m. The
bullocks, after their distress of yesterday, were left unhobbled and have
strayed to some distance, not having come up yet at this hour--8.10 a.m.
Bullocks arrived, and we started at 10.20 a.m. Camels and horses started
at 12 o'clock. Came through some splendid feed to another lake containing
but very little water and that quite bitter. Start for Moolionboorrana at
3 p.m., and arrived there at 5.53 p.m. Distance about twelve and a half
miles; first half distance was flooded flats and sand-ridges. On our way
to Thoorabiengannie at four and a half miles made the bed of a dry lake,
Tiedhenpa, with splendid feed and park-like appearance of considerable
extent. The remaining part of the distance was alternate low sandy hills
and flooded narrow flats. Camels and horses arrived at Lake
Moolionboorrana camp on north-east side of creek at 3.30 p.m. Distance
about eleven miles. Exceedingly scant of timber. The cart and sheep not
having got to camp, started Bell and Wylde with three horses back to
ascertain the cause of detention, and take food for the men if they were
unable to bring the dray during the evening; but it became so dark that
they could not retrace the tracks of their horses. At 10 p.m. returned to
camp without having seen or heard anything of cart or sheep. Will start
off again at daylight. A number of natives round the lake. Innumerable
pelicans, and numbers of ducks, gulls, waders, cormorants, fish, and
pigeons, and abundance of green grass; but no shade or protection from
the extreme heat of the sun. Rain has fallen here some short time since,
small quantities being still in the claypans; and from the cloudy
appearance of the sky with thunder to the north I fancy it has fallen
heavily in that quarter.
Sunday, December 22.
At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, and a native with four horses to
cart, to know cause of detention, etc. Unfortunately the thermometer got
broken yesterday which will prevent in future our ascertaining the
temperature of the interior, which is much to be regretted as no doubt it
would interest many. Wind south. Bullock cart got to camp at 8.20 a.m.
having had an upset. Nothing particularly wrong with it. Sheep all right.
Will spell today to recruit bullocks and men that were with them, all
having had to be on watch during the night as the natives were round and
about them the whole time--for what purpose they did not know. At 8.30
wind chopped round to north-north-east and very warm. This lake is
circular and almost without timber; but is a fine sheet of water and will
stand the weather well. There is a great deal of soda in it. It is about
two and a half to three miles long from north to south and about two
miles from east to west; the creek that supplies it (filling it from
north-west end) coming from north. The bullocks are so jaded with the
heat of the past two days and the heavy nature of the ground that they
have hardly left the water during the day without being driven; they even
went so far as to go out and lie down in it for hours.
Monday, December 23.
Wind north-north-east; sky very much overcast to southward and round by
west to north. Bullocks started at 7.40 a.m. I started with native at the
same time and reached the Creek Gadhungoonie, with a considerable
quantity of water and fully half a mile in length; but so thoroughly
bitter and salty that it was quite unfit for man or beast. Must now start
out to another creek some distance off (by report) although I meant to
give the bullocks a short day of it. Spelled till the camels came up and
started on to Abberanginnie Lake Creek, or rather I believe,
Watthiegurtie Creek, which is the creek that fills the lake--the latter
being now dry. Came over some seven and a half miles of country to
Watthiegurtie, which is also salt and bitter, and started then for
Caunboogonannie. At 2 p.m. passed in my way two salt lakes to the south
with salt-water in them, respectively named Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie;
passed also to north a recently dried up lake named Gnooloomacannie, well
timbered round its shores, with abundance of grass all over it. Arrived
at this splendid lake (Caunboogonannie) at 3.55 p.m. Splendid water and
feed. This lake also is nearly circular and about two and a half to three
miles in diameter. This lake I have called Jeannie after a young lady
acquaintance--Miss Pile of Gawler. The cart could not get further than
the last bitter water we passed today. Immediately south of that is the
dry bed of Lake Uilgobarrannie, and immediately on the north-west side of
that lake is the dry bed of Lake Caunmarriegoteinnie. This little creek,
flowing nearly south, fills Abberingannie Lake, now nearly dry, and Lakes
Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie--both at present with water but unfit for
use; plenty of good feed round all.
Tuesday, December 24.
At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson to the cart with a packhorse and two
canteens of water, and to point out a more firm place for the cart to
cross Watthiegurtie Creek than where we crossed the camels and horses, it
being very boggy. A vast number of natives here, and upon the whole about
the finest race I have seen in the colonies, and at present apparently
friendly. Any quantity of fish and hundreds of pelicans. This country is
fit for any description of stock and, with anything like a moderate
supply of rain, would be most excellent country; even as it is it is not
equalled to the southward as far as Kanyaka, Mr. Phillip's station near
Mount Brown. Mr. Hodgkinson found a better crossing for the cart a little
north, and it arrived here in safety at 12.30 p.m.--they found a little
drinkable water last night. Kirby, with the sheep, got astray today but
was soon picked up again and brought to camp about sunset by Wylde and
Bell.
Wednesday, December 25.
Christmas Day; wind variable, principally from the south, but warm.
Natives were prowling in numbers about our camp late last night. I sent
up a rocket that exploded well and had the desired effect, causing a
general rush of the whole of the sable gentry towards their camp, which
latter in their fear did not check their mad career until they found
there was no pursuit; but today they again came up to our camp quite
unconcerned as if nothing had happened--better it should be so as no
doubt I shall find them of great use in pointing out the principal waters
within their knowledge. Spelling to recruit everybody and everything, and
hope to make a good start tomorrow morning. Had an excellent dinner of
roast mutton and plum pudding and did not envy anyone in the City of
Adelaide.
Thursday, December 26.
MK (conjoined), Decr. 23, 24, 25. Dig. Arrow at 7 o'clock. Documents
deposited for relief party under tree marked as above. Wind strong
south-south-east. All the animals right this morning; started the
bullocks and sheep at 7.45, rounding the north end of lake--my course is
right through it bearing 89 degrees for Lake Dhalinnie. At two and a half
miles came to creek that falls into this one we are now encamped on; go
up it half a mile north-east to cross it; sent the cart round by the
creek to be on level ground whilst I go direct to Dhalinnie. At four and
a half miles clear the lake, and at three and a half miles further arrive
at the Lake Dhalinnie--a treeless lake, fully a mile from north to south
and little better than half a mile from east to west. Appam Barra from
this bears 4 degrees, Cannboogonanni camp 269 degrees. Started at 10.11
a.m. to meet the cart on a bearing of about 330 degrees to take them to
Appam Barra; meet the camp 10.30 and go on a bearing of 6 1/2 degrees for
Appam Barra at 10.40. After spelling ten minutes crossed creek at 11.53;
at 12.10 got to Appam Barra Creek, well filled with water, going
north-north-west from north-north-east, then round to south-south-east
and south, in the distance filling a few lakes in its course on coming
from the first quarter--a considerable number of natives here. Went on
the north-north-east course one and a quarter miles on bearing of 8
degrees; camped immediately beyond where a branch leaves the main creek
going southward--a good-sized creek about, at its junction, seventy yards
wide and fifteen feet deep; main creek about one hundred yards wide and
twenty to twenty-five feet deep; lots of mussels, crayfish, and fish of
all sorts. No great abundance of feed here nor is the country so good as
has been passed, having a very desert and sterile appearance with a
jumble of sandhills, flooded land, and a considerable quantity of
samphire bushes, large saltbush, polygonum, and other shrubs. The natives
(a fine body of men) whether from curiosity or otherwise, were with much
difficulty got away from the camp at night.
Friday, December 27.
Wind north-east; the animals went straying some considerable distance and
were late in being recovered (4.30 p.m.) having gone back to last camp,
therefore we did not get a start today. Half of the horses broke and lost
their hobbles; and the loss of chains is serious as they cannot be
replaced here.
Saturday, December 28.