Monday, November 4.
In the morning wind light from south, veered round to east; blew strong
but cool. From the termination of the trees on creek that fills this lake
Anlaby Hill bears 165 degrees; patiently awaiting a good shower to enable
me to get to Cooper's Creek Depot to ascertain if any further traces of
Burke's party or his camels are there visible, or if Mr. Howitt's party
have arrived. On my way out on Saturday about two miles from here found
dung of horses or mules, of some considerable age, and on my return to
the camp one of the men a short distance from the camp picked up part of
a hobble-strap with black buckle, much worn and had been patched, or
rather sewn, by someone as a makeshift; the leather was perfectly rotten.
No traces on any of the trees round here of anyone having been encamped.
The flies all along have been a thorough plague; fortunately, and strange
to say, we have had no mosquitoes, but thousands of small gnats take
their place, and find their way into everything. Our native Bullingani
not returned. I hardly expected him as he did not seem inclined to give
any further information either as to water or any other subject. He says
they are mustering about fifteen miles south of this for a grand (weima)
or corroberrie, and informs me that they are gathering in from all
quarters, so that I hardly like to weaken the camp here by taking one of
the men away with me. I have generally seen at the break up of those
great meetings that if they can manage it they in some way or other do
mischief, and unless I see a peaceable dispersion of these people I will
not move far away, at least for not longer than a day or two.
Tuesday, November 5.
Wind west; during the day round to south and east; temperature mild. A
few natives made their appearance on the north-west side of the lake some
distance off; towards afternoon four of their young men came to the
opposite side. I sent for them and they came over and had some dinner;
after a few questions about waters, etc. etc., they took their leave
southward, the way no doubt the rest of their tribe had gone.
Wednesday, November 6.
Wind east in gusts and cloudy; in afternoon blew strong. Temperature very
agreeable.
Thursday, November 7.
Wind during the night and at daylight blew very strong from the east,
towards noon it moderated; sky much clouded but I suppose up here it will
all blow past without any rain, although it appears to be falling in the
east. Wind round to south-east and south during afternoon with every
appearance of rain.
Friday, November 8.
No rain during the night but it was very mild and close; wind south-east
with a few clouds but with very little appearance of rain. Anxious to
find water about a day's stage eastward of depot; started out for that
purpose east three-quarters of a mile to top of sandhill close by; then
on a bearing of 118 degrees for large sandhill at quarter of a mile.
Entered a well-grassed flooded flat for about two miles, and at about one
and a quarter miles further arrived at sandhill. About two miles
south-south-east is the grassy bed of a fine lake now dry, unless there
may be a little water in the creek at the south-east end of it. Not
seeing anything in the appearance of the country to indicate the presence
of water on this course, I started on a bearing of 68 degrees over
sandhills, and at two miles came to very cracked flooded flats, and
continued on them for four and a half miles, and at one and a half miles
further came to a long salty swamp running nearly north and south, a
desolate spot; then a sand rise and another of the same. Changed course
then to 90 degrees over sandhills; at seven miles long flooded grassed
flat, north to south; then sandhill; at eight miles came to an immense
flooded flat, north to south, with great width at its northern end. At
two and three-quarter miles further came to top of very high sandhill,
and close under (east) an immense dry salt lake or very large flat. From
this there is the appearance of a large lake northward, bearing 12
degrees 20 minutes; it may be mirage, but I have observed it further back
on the day's stage, and from top of the highest hills it looks more like
water than mirage, and will therefore start for it, and if I find it is
water, it will suit my purpose as a stage on my intended journey to
Cooper's Creek on the arrival of the party now absent at Blanchewater.
For the first three miles over sand-ridges, then over cracked flooded
flats (grassless) for four miles, a box or gum creek on my right running
northward and southward. At the end of this distance I am satisfied that
I have been deceived; and as the day has been very hot and my horse
appears to be ill I will shape my course for the camp. Started at ten
minutes to 4 p.m.; find my horse thoroughly done up with, it appears,
dysentery, and am obliged to camp on top of large sandhill at 6.50 p.m.;
not a breath of wind and smoking hot. I chose this for a camp that I may
be enabled at daylight to see if there are any waters within range of
sight.
Saturday, November 9.
At daylight have a splendid view of the country round but not the
slightest appearance of water anywhere; start at 4 a.m. and I scarcely
think from the look of the horse that he will be able to take me in. I
never in so short a time saw an animal fall away so much. At 7 a.m.
struck the tracks of our horses and camels as we returned from
Cadhibaerri and followed them to camp. They led a little more to the
south than my course, as I now find that would take me out on the lake
camp about two miles north of camp. At about 8.10 a.m. got to camp, the
horse very seedy and myself not feeling very well. Some natives visited
the camp during my absence and I now see some on the opposite side of
lake. I sent for one to endeavour to get some information from him. They
had started off for our old camp before the messenger arrived but he
followed and one of them came back and stopped the night. I mean to take
him out east if he stops. I am getting very unwell from dysentery. Wind
strong from the north and very disagreeable.
Sunday, November 10.
Very unwell today; fortunately we have plenty of medicine. Wind moderate
from north-east to east and south-east. The native visitor, under
pretence of going to bring a net from the opposite side of the lake, took
French leave. I dare say when well I shall be able to get another.
Monday, November 11.
Worse rather than better today. To add to my misfortunes I have got my
right knee and back tendons become very stiff and painful, so much so
that I can hardly move. Very cloudy; wind changeable from north-east to
south-east.
Tuesday, November 12.
Wind strong from east and south-east. Little better today but leg equally
sore and stiff. Getting the cartwheels wedged and put to rights. From the
awful torment of the flies, the horses, although on magnificent feed, are
not in anything like the same condition as they were ten days ago; to
endeavour to escape them they go into the lake, and remain there for
hours at a stretch, lying down in the water and occasionally ducking
their heads under but to no purpose. Killed a sheep as the part of the
last one that was not jerked got putrid during next day and had to be
thrown away. Am sorry also that the sausages, after dragging them so far,
after all have to be thrown away, being perfectly unfit for use; had they
been good they would have been a splendid thing. We find the bacon an
excellent standby. Threatens much for rain.
Wednesday, November 13.
Rain blown off. Much better today. Wind very strong from east and
particularly cold, so much so that I can keep my coat on and not feel
inconvenienced by it; whereas before one's shirt was sufficient. Wind
chopped round in the evening to south, pretty strong.
Thursday, November 14.
Getting quite well again but knee quite stiff and painful. Very cold
during the night and at daylight quite ready for a topcoat. Wind strong
from east; moderated at noon and got warm. It is quite a pleasure to see
how well the bullocks are freshening; some indeed fit to kill; they don't
seem to suffer so much from the flies as the horses or camels. Two of the
latter (the Melbourne ones) had their backs slightly bruised and,
although constantly attended to, take a very long time to recover.
Friday, November 15.
Wind east at daylight. Thermometer stood at 54 degrees; this is lower
than I thought it would have been and the morning is not anything like so
cold as yesterday morning. I will notice the temperature during the rest
of our stay here. At five in the afternoon it stood at 100 degrees.
Bullingani and his two lubras came to the camp accompanied by another
native of Lake Perrigundi.
Saturday, November 16.
Wind east at daylight; thermometer, 63 degrees; breeze very moderate; at
noon died away to a calm. At 2 p.m. thermometer in sun 140 degrees; at 6
p.m. 106 degrees in the sun. Some natives opposite fishing in the lake;
one here busy making a net from the rushy grass that abounds round the
lake. At sunset quite a calm.
Sunday, November 17.
Quite a calm at daylight; temperature in open air 68 degrees; at 8 a.m.
slight breeze from north, thermometer in sun 118 degrees; at 10 a.m. 136
degrees; at noon 160 degrees with wind from north-west with a number of
thunder-looking clouds. At sunset temperature 97 degrees; still cloudy. A
further arrival of natives on opposite side of lake.
Monday, November 18.
At daylight calm; temperature 73 degrees in open air. At 10 a.m.
temperature 143 degrees in the sun out of the wind; wind from north to
north-west. A number of natives arrived this morning. At twenty minutes
to 11 a.m. temperature 154 degrees; at noon cool breeze temperature 146
degrees; at sunset light breeze from north-west, temperature 102 degrees.
Anxiously expecting the party under Mr. Hodgkinson.
Tuesday, November 19.
Wind north at daylight; temperature 77 degrees in open air; up till noon
blew strong. Temperature at noon in sun out of the breeze 136 degrees. At
sunset wind moderated; heavy clouds from south-east round by south-west
to north. At 9 p.m. temperature 96 degrees. At 12 blew a strong gale from
south-east accompanied by a very little rain. A good deal of lightning
and a little thunder from the southward of west, round west and north of
west and apparently raining.
Wednesday, November 20.
Wind working round from south of east to north of east. At 6 a.m.
temperature 84 degrees; very cloudy and threatens much for rain--perhaps
when the wind moderates we may have a fall. For the last few days
Middleton has been laid up with a very bad sore ulcerated throat but is
now nearly recovered. I am now quite recovered and anxiously awaiting the
return of Mr. Hodgkinson's party that I may be enabled to start for
Cooper's Creek by a route a little more to the southward than when I
tried when last out. At 1 p.m. wind fallen and changed to
west-north-west; temperature 98 degrees. Wind suddenly chopped round by
west to south from which quarter till dark it blew quite a gale, causing
the lake to recede about 600 yards further north. Highest temperature
during afternoon 105 degrees; at 7 p.m. 90 degrees. It looks exceedingly
like rain and very boisterous. Mr. Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. At
midnight a few drops of rain with the high wind.
Thursday, November 21.
Quite a calm, the sky completely overcast; whether it will rain or not
remains to be seen. The water in the lake has returned to its old bed.
Temperature at daylight 85 degrees. From a long conversation I had with a
native yesterday, who came to the camp, I am led to believe that only one
of the whites was murdered at Lake Cadhibaerri at the time of the attack
upon them by the natives there. On the return of the party from the
north-west they repulsed the natives, killing some and wounding others;
the party buried their comrade and marched southward. The natives, on
seeing that the whites had proceeded onwards, immediately returned to the
scene of the disaster, dug up the body, cut off all the principal
muscular parts, and feasted upon their revolting repast. So minutely does
this native know all their movements that he has described to me all the
waters they passed and others at which they camped, and waters that they
remained at for some time, subsisting on a sort of vetch seed that the
natives principally use here for food, and obtained in large quantities
on many of the flooded flats by sweeping it into heaps, then winnowing
it, then grinding or pounding it between two stones, then mixing it with
water into the consistency of damper, and finally making a cake and
putting it into the ashes the same way as damper--when cooked and fit for
use it tastes rather strong, but no doubt they could live upon it for a
long time as it must be wholesome. That, with the game and fish they
could get from the waters of the creeks and lakes, would keep them alive
very well if they did not further attempt to make their way to the
Darling (which the native says they did) but I hope soon to see and trust
they have not attempted to do so. If they have not done so, and that they
are alive and escaped the natives, their relief is certain. One thing I
cannot arrive at is how long or how many moons it is since they were
attacked at Lake Cadhibaerri, as I then could form a much more accurate
idea of the truthfulness or otherwise of the native's statements; but it
must be some considerable time as the body I found was perfectly
decomposed, and on the skull even there was not a particle of skin, but
as bare as if it had lain in a grave for years. A slight shower this
afternoon, hardly sufficient to wet one's shirt. Temperature highest
during the day 104 degrees, very close and disagreeable; at sunset
temperature 88 degrees, heavy clouds all round, not a breath of wind.
Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. If he does not come within the next
two days I shall feel very uneasy. Had a visit from about a score of
natives, some of them from the north-east, other two from the
west-north-west about the stony desert, as they describe an abundance of
stones in that quarter. Wind from south-east to south, during the night a
very little rain.
Friday, November 22.
Daylight quite cloudy and like rain. Temperature 82 degrees, wind
chopping all round; at noon south and north of west. Temperature 142
degrees and still a cool breeze blowing; sunset temperature 90 degrees,
wind southward and strong. No appearance of Hodgkinson and party. The
natives in a great stir here tonight about something--about a dozen of
them crossed the lake to us after dark, wishing to camp near for the
night; but as I did not approve of their movements in the evening
immediately sent them off again.
Saturday, November 23.
At daylight wind strong from the east; temperature 80 degrees, at 5.30
a.m. blew quite a gale from south, the sky quite overcast and in every
other part of the country would make preparations for a heavy fall of
rain, but I have seen so much of this here that I don't expect rain till
I see it. Temperature noon 110 degrees, rain all blown past; at sunset
wind still strong from south; temperature 84 degrees. No appearance of
Hodgkinson's party. Natives assembling in great numbers on this
lake--distributed some beads, bracelets, and other trinkets amongst them,
at which they seemed much pleased.
Sunday, November 24.
Wind south-east beautifully cool; temperature at sunrise 63 degrees; at
noon in shade 84 degrees; at sunset wind south, temperature 76 degrees;
cloudy. Hodgkinson not arrived.
Monday, November 25.
At 1.30 a.m. temperature 62 degrees; at sunrise temperature 58 degrees,
wind east-south-east, beautifully cool; at noon temperature 106 degrees
in the sun and wind; at sundown 82 degrees, gentle breeze.
Tuesday, November 26.
Wind east, at sunrise temperature 63 degrees; at noon in the shade
temperature 79 degrees, very light breeze: temperature at 2.30 p.m. 110
degrees, wind west-north-west and cool; at sunset temperature 90 degrees,
calm. No appearance of the party from Blanchewater.
Wednesday, November 27.
Calm at sunrise, temperature 60 degrees; at 9 a.m. 116 degrees in the
sun; at 1 p.m. 118 degrees. Got the horses in the forenoon and went east
three and a half miles; first three-quarters of a mile over sandhills,
rest of the way over flooded ground to Goderannie Creek; not much water
now; then to Palcooraganny. At present this is the dry bed of a small
lake with plenty of dry clover and grasses in the dry bed. On the
north-east side of the lake is a well dug by the natives about ten to
eleven feet deep with about one foot of water at present in it and good.
I suppose a considerable quantity could be had if the hole were enlarged.
Close by there was an encampment of blacks, in all about a dozen, not the
same apparent well-fed fellows that frequent the lakes and main creeks.
From enquiry it appears that during the dry season this is the sort of
water they have to depend upon, and I think the wells are few and far
between. A high sandhill was some little distance off and to it I went;
from the top of which I had an extensive view. Could see nothing
northward and westward but a jumble of lower sandhills looking very
dreary without even a creek with its timber to break the monotony of the
view. From the top of the hill there was water at a distance of one and a
half to one and three-quarter miles. Depot about sixteen miles distant.
Goderannie Creek is deep, with abundance of fish of various sorts, and
drains all the creeks that fill our depot lake, and the creek to the west
of the lake over the sandhills. Started the blackfellows and whites to
dig a well close by the depot before I went away this morning. At eight
feet eight inches struck water (good). Will deepen it tomorrow and see
what supply would be likely to be had if necessity would require it.
Party not yet returned; feel quite uneasy about them but suppose they did
not get what they were sent for as soon as they expected.
Thursday, November 28.
At daylight wind strong from south-south-east, at sunrise temperature 63
degrees. Enlarging and deepening the well. Temperature at noon in the sun
and wind 106 degrees; at sunset 73 degrees. Finished the well, now being
nine feet six inches deep, three and a half feet broad and five feet
long. For the first four feet it was a mixture of light-coloured clay and
fine sand, next three and a half feet was a mixture of gypsum and blue
clay, next to bottom a little clay mixed with chiefly fine sand, then the
water seemed to come in from all quarters. Party not yet
arrived--exceedingly anxious about them.
Friday, November 29.
Wind south-south-east and cool at sunrise, temperature 54 degrees, being
much lower than we have had it except once. There is a depth of ten
inches of water in the well during twelve hours. At 7.30 a.m. two natives
arrived on opposite side of the lake, bringing the joyous tidings that
the party under charge of Mr. Hodgkinson had camped at a creek called
Keradinti about eight miles from this last night, so that I expect them
every hour--I was heartily glad to hear of them. At 9.30 a.m. Mr.
Hodgkinson and party arrived safe, for which I was truly thankful; I was
afraid something had happened to them from their apparent long absence. I
am sorry that the native Jack, that accompanied them from this, deserted
about the inner stations, having heard some idle report of something
having happened to the party here. Mr. Hodgkinson has brought back with
him nearly everything I required. By him I also received some Adelaide
papers in which were some Melbourne telegrams, one of which announced the
rescue by Mr. Howitt of one of Burke's party, King, so that I have been
deceived as to appearances at Lake Cadhibaerri respecting the different
colours of hair found. Still I am under the impression that when Burke's
diary is published that it will show of some affray with the natives
about that place, or they would not have acted towards us when there as
they did. By receipt of such intelligence, and that now the whole of the
unfortunate party are accounted for, it renders my journey to Cooper's
Creek, as I intended, useless for any purpose of relief. Had they on
their arrival from the north coast at Cooper's Creek depot only pushed
westward this length they could, with the greatest ease to themselves,
have made the Adelaide stations. I am quite surprised that they could not
get south by Strzelecki's Creek, being under the impression that
two-thirds of the water of Cooper's Creek was drained off by that
watercourse southward. My impression from observation here is that a very
great portion of the waters of Cooper's Creek is drained northwards from
this. Before leaving this it is my intention to push eastward some
distance to ascertain the character of the country, and on my return to
push westward for some distance to ascertain if the stony desert exists
so far southward as this; I will then proceed northward and examine the
waters reported by the natives to exist in that quarter, and ascertain if
they are likely to be of permanent use to South Australia. From them I
shall be entirely guided by the appearance of the country there as to my
future movements. I am now satisfied that water can be had by digging. By
the time I return from the east and westward the horses that have been
down to the settled districts will have so far recovered from their
fatigue, and be again able to proceed northward. At 5 p.m. depth of water
in the well fifteen and a half inches, the water very hard and clear,
quite the opposite of the lake, which is very soft and rather milky in
colour. Mr. Hodgkinson, since he has been absent, has had a severe attack
of illness brought on, I believe, by injury sustained from a pummelling
he received at Apoinga, near the Burra, from one of the camels, Siva, who
at that time was very unruly and inclined to be vicious. He has
repeatedly complained and even now is not at all the thing. I trust he
will thoroughly recover as he is a very energetic little fellow and the
want of his services would be a considerable loss to me on my coming
journey. Highest temperature during day 120 degrees.
Saturday, November 30.
Wind south-south-east. Temperature at sunrise 70 degrees; depth of water
in the well at 5 a.m. eighteen and a quarter inches. Temperature at noon
99 degrees in the sun and wind. Temperature at sunset 84 degrees; wind
west of south a little cloudy; so it was last night.
Sunday, December 1.
A little rain during the night but not enough to wet a sheet of paper. At
sunrise temperature 70 degrees, calm. At noon slight breeze southerly;
temperature 110 degrees. Found suspended the spring of one of Terry's
breech-loading rifles round the neck of a native; he describes the
remaining portions of the rifle out to the north-east, which will be
nearly in our north course. Highest temperature during the afternoon in
the sun 129 degrees; at sunset 99 degrees.
Monday, December 2.