Bernardino, who came to the camp with information, brought by a
horseman just arrived, that the Indians had yesterday been fighting
near us, and might shortly be expected; recommending us to be on our
guard against their insidious mode of attack, particularly about
daybreak, and, like them, “to sleep by day and watch by night.” The
seamen and marines were instantly under arms. The captain made his
disposition of our force, by putting the seamen in quarter watches,
the marines forming a fifth body, each under an officer. Rockets and
blue lights, and fire-balls, which we had made, were in readiness
to throw amongst the horses. Fires were kept in, torches burnt, and
all hands paraded the camp till daylight, when tea was made for the
ship’s company, and an hour or two of rest permitted. The party on
board, under the second lieutenant, were equally on the alert, firing
an occasional great gun, double-shotted, to aid the demonstration
of our watchfulness. The ship had been so uneasy during the night,
that the best bower-anchor had been dropped, to steady her bow to the
surf. Anxiety was expressed by the party of Chilinos for us to move
from our present encampment to the entrance of a small river, twenty
miles to the northward of us, as adding much to our safety from the
Indians, from its defensible situation, and being the nearest spot
from which any approach could be made from sea to afford us relief;
the difficulties of a more distant land journey being impracticable
under the circumstances in which we were placed, and the necessity of
only moving with our arms, provisions, and several sick. Don Bernardino
had, in the first moment of his arrival, urged our moving, pointing out
the danger of remaining, not only on account of the hostile Indians,
but the liability of the flat on which we were being overflowed by the
sea, as well as flooded by the heavy rains which, at that season of
the year, might be hourly expected to fall; also stating that, though
they might possibly be able to collect horses and mules, to assist
our movement, whilst the weather remained dry, yet that, as they must
necessarily come from a great distance, and from the neighbourhood of
Arauco, the first rains would drive them to their homes again, fearing
the impassable state of the country. At night a strong armed watch was
on the look-out in the camp, and scouts kept at the distance of a few
miles, in the direction of the hostile Indians.
Light winds from the southward, with occasional fog. The evident
necessity of strengthening our position, as a precaution against the
liability of an attack from the Indians, caused all hands, after
attending to the cables attached to the wreck, to be employed in
forming such a barricade around our tents as might prove at least a
check to the approach of cavalry. The result of this day’s labour, to
those who witnessed it, will long be with proud satisfaction called to
mind, as a proof of what the stimulated energies of British seamen can
accomplish: they forgot their former fatigue, and, “turning-to” with
a good will, boats, cordage, casks, and every description of stores
useful for defence, were carried on their shoulders, or laboriously
dragged over the heavy sand; and the fortified state of our camp, by
digging trenches, constructing barriers and platforms for our two
boat-guns, which we had got out of the ship, and bringing aft the
long-bow guns on board, so as to flank our encampment, reflected the
greatest credit on every individual who shared in this day’s labour.
Our works were afterwards improved; and, though the known bravery of
the Indians is not to be despised, they would have bought a severe
lesson by attacking us. Still, regret must have attended any sacrifice
in such bootless warfare; and we have just reason to conclude that
their knowledge of our prepared state constituted our security from
molestation. The surprise of the numerous straggling Indians, who were
lookers-on at our laborious efforts, was evidently very great, and, it
is certain, excited a strong feeling of respect towards us.
It has been already observed, that the seamen were divided into four
quarter watches; three of them commanded by a lieutenant, and the
master in charge of the fourth. A fair and equal division of the
fire-arms was made: those who had no musket had a pistol, cutlas, or
pike. Each quarter watch had their appointed station, to form in when
called out under arms. The marines formed in the centre of the camp,
and intended to act, as necessary, in support of the weakest point.
It was understood that silence was strictly to be kept, and not a shot
fired until orders were given from the captain. All were regularly
mustered, under arms, every night before supper; the arms discharged
and reloaded, and the necessary steps taken to ensure their readiness
for use. The two boat cannonades were each in charge of a quarter
watch. At night every body slept with their arms by their side.
Besides the sentinels, who called out the half hours throughout the
night, a watchword was established, and an officer and midshipman
were constantly moving about the encampment and visiting the posts.
Such were the precautions used in our endeavours to secure our camp.
The Indians, who brought from the hills each his grass-net of apples,
potatoes, or fowls, to exchange with us for whatever we had, were
requested to carry on their marketing in a small mound of sand, about
100 yards from us; and we put up a staff, with a cross, to indicate
the spot, getting an interpreter to explain what we wished: for it
was of infinite consequence to prevent an acquaintance with our camp.
They smiled at our arrangement, but were not displeased, and for some
time they adhered to our desire with tolerable regularity. The Indians
had brought each day some supply of poultry, which the crew obtained
from them, at first, at an easy rate of exchange, and they willingly
received buttons or bits of metal in return: the eagerness, however,
of the sailor to add the luxury of a fowl to his mess of salt meat
caused the cunning Indian to demand articles of dress: an old shirt
was what they coveted much; and a jacket was also among the articles
eagerly sought for. On each of our batteries was fixed a flag-staff,
to which a union-jack was secured, and kept constantly flying. A full
supply of grape, canister, and round shot was piled on each platform,
which was composed of cannonade slides sunk into the sand. These guns,
as well as those on the stern of the wreck, were almost every evening
discharged and reloaded, preparatory for the night. None could go in or
out of the encampment without being seen by the sentinels; and at night
the watchword was demanded of all who moved out of their tents. Don
Bernardino kept us constantly on the alert with regard to the Indians.
He had, with the consent of Captain Seymour, despatched an express to
the governor of the frontier town of Arauco, begging him to use his
authority in collecting seventy horses and thirty mules, to be driven
down to the coast to assist in transporting our provisions and baggage
to the Rio Leubu, that being the spot from whence we could alone hope
to be relieved.
_Tuesday, May 26._--Light north-westerly winds and clear weather.
Observations were taken, by means of a false horizon, by the master and
master-assistant, for a latitude and longitude of the encampment, which
gave the latitude 37° 48′ 48″ s., and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ w. The
wreck bore from the camp s.w. by w. We now felt a great satisfaction
and security in our barricade. Our sick list numbered about ten, who
were unfit for active work. Several of the ten were laid up from over
work or rheumatic attacks, the result of their being constantly wet in
labouring at the wreck.
On board the Challenger, at the time of her disaster, was a Spaniard,
who had been engaged in the affair of the Falkland Islands, and was
one of the Gauchos who had been taken as concerned in the murders
committed there in 1833. He had been released, and was a passenger
from Rio de Janeiro, to be landed at Valparaiso; but he had frequently
exhibited such symptoms of mental derangement, that it became necessary
to secure him in his hammock. On the day the evening of which we were
wrecked, he had been unusually unruly, and was therefore placed under
restraint. In the moment of the greatest danger, on the striking of
the ship amongst the breakers, one of the first who ran on deck was
the Spaniard, with scarcely any covering on him. He must have broken
away from the lashings which secured him, appeared perfectly sane, and
prepared to assist in the duties of the ship; and, singular to relate,
on no occasion afterwards, during the whole time of our stay on the
shores of Chili, was there observed any return of wildness. He was very
useful in the camp, from his skill in cutting out and applying the
hides of the bullocks to the fabrication of moccassins.
_Wednesday, May 27._--The wind northerly, with thick weather and fog.
One watch was occupied at the wreck, getting out any undamaged articles
of provisions, private property, or stores that could be got at. The
quantity of water in the holds, however, prevented much being done.
About mid-day, the Cacique Pinoleo, with his wife and daughter, and
several followers, arrived at our camp. He was on his road to join his
brother, the Cacique Colissi, who had sent for more assistance to make
head against the hostile Indians, with whom he had been fighting. After
collecting and mustering the Indians around our camp, and treating us
with their war-whoop, he left us to join his brother, strengthening his
force with the greater part of Rafael Lobo’s Indians. The daily routine
of mustering under arms, with every precaution against a surprise
during the night, was duly attended to. The night was damp and foggy.
_Thursday, May 28._--The weather moderate, the wind northerly, with a
damp fog. Except the necessary attention to the stream-cable fasts,
and the working of the pumps, the crew were allowed a respite from
their previous daily hard labours, the occupation of to-day being
the arrangement of the interior of the tents, and the examination of
their clothes and bedding, and likewise cleaning and sweeping inside
the barricade, and making storage of the provisions. By the captain’s
order a survey was taken by the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, Mr.
M’Donald, the master, and Mr. Barclay, the carpenter, to ascertain,
if possible, the principal damage received in the hull of the wreck.
Towards sunset it was observed that the stern-post was left dry in the
drawback of the surf; and, from the forming of a sand-bank outside the
ship, the iron stock of the best bower-anchor was at times visible
about half the ship’s length ahead of her. The current through the surf
to the southward along shore appeared unusually strong; the weather
to seaward dark and gloomy, with the appearance of an approach of a
strong northerly gale. At 5 A.M. mustered under arms, and supplied
what ammunition was necessary; discharged the arms, and reloaded; and
likewise on board the wreck. A messenger arrived from the governor of
Arauco to Don Bernardino, acknowledging our request to have horses and
mules collected for our removal to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and
promising the exertion of all his authority to forward so important an
object. The wind increased as the night advanced.
_May 29._--The weather dry, but with strong breezes, and cloudy from
the northward; an unusually heavy surf rolling in on the beach,
breaking with great violence and height on the breakers to seaward: the
ship very uneasy, so much so as to threaten a separation of the decks
from the lower body of the ship; to relieve her the foremast was cut
away, and driven up on the beach to the southward, and the larboard
sheet-anchor let go, the mainmast and bowsprit being the only spars now
standing. A second small anchor was got on shore to assist in steadying
the wreck, with the fore-gaugers and chain-messenger bent to it and
hove taut. As the duty permitted, the officers and men were allowed
to stroll to some little distance from the camp; and, with one of the
Chilinos as a guide and interpreter, a party was occasionally made, in
accordance with inclination, as well as appetite, in search of game of
any description that might assist in adding to and varying our dinner.
Persuaded by Don Bernardino, who furnished horses, the captain, with
Mr. Sarjeant and a guide, rode for an hour two or in the direction
of the ground pointed out by Rafael Lobo, and as far as the Cacique
Cheuquante’s residence, over the hills north of us, distant about two
leagues. There they found one of Pinoleo’s wives and a daughter, and
attendants. They passed on their road one of the few evidences of a
burial-ground which was seen by us. It was a spot of ten or twelve
yards square, securely fenced by trunks of large trees piled round, the
ends being rudely morticed into each other. The beauty and luxuriance
of the country on the hills was a great contrast to the barren sandy
flat on which we were situated. The variety and size of the evergreens
were most striking. Many trees which bore fruit were also pointed
out as much esteemed and eaten by the Indians: some cranberries were
also gathered. Abundance of partridges were seen. At 4 P.M. Mr. Lane,
the assistant-surgeon, arrived from Concepçion, bringing the welcome
intelligence that his companion, Mr. Jagoe, with the consul, Mr. Rouse,
were on their road to us, and hoped to reach our camp on the next day.
Mr. Rouse was bringing with him several mules laden with articles
which he considered we might have need of, as spirits and bread; not
knowing of our success in saving out of the ship sufficient provisions
for the present support of all. These mules delayed his movements; he,
therefore, very properly, had pushed Mr. Lane on with a safe guide to
convey to the captain, with as little delay as possible, a reply to his
letter, naturally supposing the anxious suspense we were under to hear
from him. The consul was also bringing some presents, to conciliate
the good-will of the caciques on the road and around our encampment.
Towards sunset our camp was put in movement by the appearance,
through the distant haze to the southward, of an approach of several
groups of horsemen, and a mounted scout was sent by Don Bernardino to
reconnoitre. They turned out to be some of Cheuquante’s Indians, who
were returning from the late battles fought by Colissi against the
hostile Indians. Towards night it blew a heavy gale: its effect on the
sand, which we were on, was most inconvenient and annoying, finding its
way into every thing inside the tents.
_Saturday, May 30._--Strong gales from the northward, with heavy rains,
which penetrated the tents a good deal, causing many attempts on the
part of the sleepers, during the night, to discover the driest spot
inside to lie down on. Daylight saw a crowded group huddled together
in the centre of the tent, as being the most free from rain. It was
necessary to turn all hands on the pumps to clear the holds of as much
water as possible, in order to endeavour to get at the remainder of the
provisions, which might have escaped injury. The heavy surf which broke
this day on the ship made her very uneasy. Amongst the articles secured
to-day, out of the after-hold, were a quantity of salt provisions
and other articles, many of which were too much damaged for use, the
whole of the lower frame of the ship having been a long time under
the influence of sea-water. The provisions and spirits were carefully
transported to the camp; the latter placed in the officers’ tent; the
former ranged outside of it, in a trench, and covered with sand, thus
securing and steadying the tent.
At 12 30′ P.M. we experienced a severe shock of an earthquake, causing
a very strong vibration to every article in our tents, and instantly
arousing several who were asleep, resting from fatigue. An account
of the whole of the provisions saved was carefully taken, and such
daily issues made to the crew, under the management of Mr. Sarjeant,
the purser, as the quantity of the various species would admit of.
The precaution of securing a large proportion of our bread, at the
moment of our disaster, and putting it into casks, proved of the
greatest consequence to us; for, although it ran short, the third, and
afterwards, as long as it lasted, a fourth, of the established daily
allowance was of infinite service to us. The powder cases from the
magazines, many of which were got out, were discovered not in every
instance to have resisted the wet; yet we fortunately had an ample
supply for all our necessities. The weather broke a little towards the
evening, but with frequent squalls, attended by heavy rain.
_Sunday, May 31._--The wind still northerly and fresh, with heavy
rain, rendering our camp and tents very uncomfortable. The marsh and
flat round us was much flooded, and gave us some idea of what we might
expect, should the winter rains commence before we were enabled to quit
our present spot, which had, in several points of view, the appearance
of an island. The little stream of water which skirted the base of our
camp rose amongst the hills inland, in which direction it partook of
the character of a small river; and a few small fish were occasionally
to be seen jumping in its deepest parts. Its increase after rain was
considerable; resuming its ordinary size and force on the return of
dry weather. At the camp, in the absence of washing apparatus, it
became the scene of each morning’s ablution; and was on every account
of inestimable value to us, for it was of excellent quality. A walk
on the banks of the little stream could be extended to three or four
miles, and yet continuing in sight of our camp, from the flatness of
the ground. Duck and widgeon constantly sprang up from under the banks,
which were towards the hills, covered with myrtles, rushes, and a
gigantic weed peculiar to the marshes of that part of Chili.
On the north side of the stream the officers had, as duty permitted
them, gone out with their guns, and seldom returned without a supply of
partridges and wild ducks, excellent in flavour, and most acceptable
to our numerous mess, which included the officers of all grades, our
excellent shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, being the caterer, and fulfilling,
under circumstances, so laborious and troublesome this duty, in a
manner deserving the hearty thanks of his messmates. Anxious on every
account to advance the necessary and evident object of moving to the
banks of the Rio Leubu, and desirous of ascertaining the nature of that
spot by an eyewitness of our own, in order that, on the arrival of the
consul, no time might be lost in deciding on our future operation as
concerned the Leubu, the captain at 10 A.M. despatched two officers,
with a guide from the Chilino party, to examine the entrance of that
river, with reference to forming an encampment there, and to the
possibility of being able to embark from it. Every hour now sensibly
proved to us the impossibility of remaining on our present ground. We
had been dependent on the wreck for fire-wood, the quantity of which
we had burnt was very great. Our spars, from their usefulness as
tent-poles and as part of the barricades, we could not suffer to be cut
up; parties, therefore, daily foraged the ship and beach for whatever
was to be got at to supply the wants of the cooks: our distance from
the wood on the hills was too great to send there, besides the risk of
separating our force. The surf continued heavy, and the appearance of
the weather to seaward squally and unsettled; the ship was working very
much in her top sides, and sinking deep forward.
A pest, which eventually became very destructive and annoying to us,
had now begun to trouble us, in the shape of a multitude of a large
kind of mouse: our provisions, stores, clothes, tents, all suffered
from their constant attacks, and the freedom with which they visited
the sleepers almost exceeded belief.
At 5 30′ P.M. the British consul, Henry William Rouse, Esq. from
Concepçion, arrived at our barricade, accompanied by Colonel Don
G. J. Valenzuela, the governor and military commandant of Arauco,
with Mr. Jagoe. They had had a severe journey, from the effects of
the heavy rain that had fallen in a country where the existence of
a road is unknown. Their arrival was hailed with joy as the dawn of
our deliverance, and gave us fresh stimulus to exertion. They were
fatigued, and gladly partook of what we had to offer them, which
included some good wine we had got out of the wreck; and sought some
early rest, deciding on the morrow to concert measures for our moving
towards the Rio Leubu. The governor expressed himself highly pleased
at the manner in which we had barricaded ourselves. We were indebted,
for the governor of Arauco’s presence, to the high esteem in which Mr.
Rouse is held, amongst the authorities, throughout the country which
surrounds Concepçion, where he is much beloved. On Mr. Rouse’s arrival
at Arauco, the governor, to whom he is known, insisted on accompanying
him to Molquilla, urging the benefit which his authority and presence
might be of in assisting him on a journey, if not of danger, at least
of great discomfort, and having interviews with the different caciques
who were considered friendly to the Chilian government. The reader may
possibly feel an interest in knowing what occurred during the journey
performed by our two shipmates to Concepçion, and on their return. Mr.
Jagoe’s account of it is nearly as follows:--
“The captain had put me in charge of a letter to the British consul at
Concepçion, with directions to take it, or find means of transmitting
it: he also spoke to Mr. Lane on the same subject. We therefore
consulted together as to the best manner of executing this mission, on
which so much depended.