TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.
[Illustration: ENCAMPMENT AT MOLGUILLA, CHILI.
_On stone by W. Walton_
A. _Wreck of H. M. Ship Challenger_
B. _Tent for the Chilenos from Arauco_
C. _Tent put up for Cheuquante’s Indians_
D. _Ship’s Company Tent_
E. _Tent for Capt^n. & Officers_
_Printed by C Hullmandel_
]
A
DIARY
OF
THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP
CHALLENGER,
ON THE
WESTERN COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA,
IN MAY, 1835.
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
THE SUBSEQUENT ENCAMPMENT OF THE OFFICERS
AND CREW,
DURING A PERIOD OF SEVEN WEEKS,
ON THE
SOUTH COAST OF CHILI.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR
LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1836.
LONDON:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.
DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
Encampment at Molquilla _to face the Title_.
Molquilla Beach _to face page_ 6
Plan of Molquilla Camp 30
View of the Leubu Camp 98
A DIARY
OF
THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP
CHALLENGER.
On the first day of April, 1835, His Majesty’s ship Challenger sailed
from Rio Janeiro for the Pacific, with orders to touch at the port of
Concepçion in our way to Valparaiso, at which place we hoped either to
find the commodore commanding on the western coasts of South America,
or directions for our further proceedings. Valparaiso and Concepçion
are the two principal seaports of the republic of Chili; the former
being the most important, as receiving the great bulk of manufactures,
and other numerous and various exports from Europe.
The object of the Challenger’s calling at Concepçion, situated about
300 miles south of Valparaiso, and laying in the route of the latter
port, was for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water, for
which Concepçion offers peculiar facilities.
The first part of our voyage was a series of calms, with light variable
winds; and our progress to the southward was slow, until we reached the
latitude of 31° south. We then began to experience fresh westerly and
southerly winds, which, with little variation, continued until we had
arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Nothing had occurred worthy of
notice, except that numerous flying-fish were seen as far south as the
latitude of 40°. Off the Cape, in latitude 60°, after a short interval
of calm, a number of what we only know by the name of black fish
attracted our attention by the peculiarity of their movements, and the
closeness of their approach to the ship; and we experienced a severe
gale, which began in the south, and gradually veered to S.S.W. and
S.W., accompanied by an unusually high sea, with constant hail squalls.
_May 4._--The wind blew violently from S. and S.S.W., with a heavy sea
and hard squalls of hail and snow. It was of consequence to draw the
ship to the westward, and to this end we carried our close-reefed
main-topsails and reefed foresail; the wind being about two points
abaft the beam; the ship behaving remarkably well, but lurching deeply;
and on one occasion she made so heavy a plunge, that a long lee sea
came in over all, staving in the lee quarter gallery, moving the
sheet-anchor, floating our spars in the lee channels, and actually
wetting the legs of several persons who were securing their holdfast
under the weather bulwarks. We looked on this as a hint to batten
down our main-deck hatchways; to take the canvass off her; and, as
night was closing in, the main-topsail and foresail were furled, and
the ship eventually hove-to, under the fore and main-staysails; the
latter having been, in our first attempt to set it, blown to leeward
by the carrying away of our staysail stay. In this breeze a heavy sea
struck the bows and cutwater, and with a most singular result, for it
carried away the crown of our figure-head from the forehead upwards;
and the ominous remark of the person who reported the circumstance
to the officer of the watch was, “Sir, she has lost her brains.” The
weather continued stormy, with heavy squalls of hail, with little
intermission, till the 6th and 7th of May; when we experienced a
severe gale off the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and under the
double-reefed courses, which was as much sail as the masts and yards
would bear; and, in a long high sea, the good qualities of the ship
called forth the undivided praise of all on board.
_May 17._--In latitude 41°, and longitude 80° 43′ W., the weather
appeared to have undergone a change for the better. The barometer,
which had been for several weeks very low, now rose to the height
usually shown on the coasts of Peru, and the northern parts of the
coast of Chili; and many were the mutual congratulations exchanged
on board, on our having at length got into fine moderate weather,
securing, as we conceived the ultimate object in view, that of arriving
at the port of Concepçion, then only two days’ sail in distance from
us. Good observations were obtained on this day, the results of which
were found to agree closely with our estimation as shown by the dead
reckoning. The topgallant masts were sent aloft, together with the
studding-sail booms, and a variety of gear, which, during our stormy
weather, had been sent on deck to relieve the masts and ship; and all
the necessary sail was made in the direction of our destined port. The
wind S.W.; the course steered N.N.E.
_May 18._--The weather became thick, with a fresh wind. The 19th
produced little change, except that we were enabled to get a good set
of sights of the sun for our chronometers, by which, with our latitude
by dead reckoning, we worked out our longitude, the correctness of
which we had no reason whatever to doubt. At noon Concepçion bore
from us N. 52°, 41° E., 146 miles. At 5 P.M. the ship was hove-to,
the chain cables bent, and the usual preparation made on approaching
an anchorage. The deep-sea lead was tried in upwards of 200 fathoms,
but without striking soundings. Sail was again made in the ship,
treble-reefed topsails, courses, and fore-topmast staysail.
At 8 P.M., after a careful examination of the ship’s place on the
charts, directions were given to haul the ship to the wind on the
larboard tack. This was done at about 10 minutes after 8 o’clock, and
it allowed her to lay along shore, N. half E., the wind being about
W.N.W., reducing her rate of going to about four knots; at which pace
it was proposed to allow her to continue, until daylight permitted us
to bear up, and again make sail for our destination, Talcuhuana Bay,
the anchorage of Concepçion. The weather at this time was still hazy,
the wind moderate, the water smooth, and stars appearing occasionally
overhead, with an expected moon at midnight, promising us a quiet fine
night: but the Almighty had ordered it otherwise, and a most awful and
perilous shipwreck awaited us.
At about 9 45′ P.M., the look-out men having been visited but a few
minutes before, breakers were seen at the same moment by them and the
officer of the watch, who also remarked a new and peculiar motion
in the movement of the ship. The helm was instantly put down, and
the watch hurried to their stations to tack the ship; the captain,
calling for the hands to be turned up as he flew upon deck, and as the
ship had answered the helm though rising to a very high sea, and was
coming round, hauled the after-yards. Orders were given to stand by
the anchors; but almost immediately afterwards the order “to keep fast
the anchors,” and haul the head-yards. In accomplishing this latter
operation a high surf struck the bows; the ship, lifting to the heavy
swell, got sternway, and struck with a dreadful crash, her keel taking
the rocks about midships: another sea followed, which threw her
on her starboard beam-ends, the surf at the same time breaking over
and into the ship with a force sufficient to wash the men from the
decks. Most miraculously, however, no serious accident now occurred,
nor was any greater injury sustained than by the men at the helm,
who were thrown over the wheel, and severely bruised. We were now at
the mercy of the heaviest surf it is possible to conceive; the ship
labouring in a most fearful manner, falling over on either broadside,
and righting herself as the weight and force of the sea affected her;
and the warning orders were reiterated to hold on, and keep out of
the way of the masts, which were every moment expected to fall. The
masts, however, stood, though many of the loftier back-stays, stay, and
braces, came down, but, fortunately, without injury to any one.
[Illustration: MOLGUILLA BEACH,
_shewing the Wreck of_
H.M.S. Challenger.
_on the West Coast of South America in_
Latitude 37° 49′ S.
Longitude 73° 34′ W.
_Wrecked on May 19th 1835 at 9.45 P.M._
_Rise of Tide about 2 feet but much depends on the state of the
Weather and Wind at Sea._
Reference to Plan
1. _Ship standing in on a wind, on larboard tack head N.N.E. (true)._
2. _Ship stayed head S.S.W. when the first breaker struck her._
3. _Position when she first struck head S.S.E._
4. _Supposed situation when the mizen mast was cut away, the Ship having
been thrown over a sunken ledge of rocks into 6 feet water sandy bottom
the surf breaking over larboard side with great violence._
5. _Ship at daylight on the 20th when the Jollyboat left with the
lead line._
6. _Situation when abandoned on the 7th June, buried 9 feet in the sand.
The flat staff on the Leubu Head bore from Tucapel Point N b E (true)
about 15 miles._]
A few minutes had been sufficient to place us in this most frightful
and truly awful situation; a situation requiring the greatest degree
of firmness, as well as promptitude of action. A thick dense fog,
which hung on the water, gave us no warning of the silent and terrible
rollers; the first of which, on being discovered, launched us amongst
the breakers, which were now roaring with fury around us, drenching to
the skin every individual on the deck as they broke with violence into
the ship. The brilliancy of the surf and spray, added to the sad and
gloomy character of the night, made our frightful situation the more
apparent; and, for a considerable interval of time, so heavily did the
ship continue to strike, that it appeared impossible for any human
power to prevent her from going to pieces, or to conceal from ourselves
the appalling prospect of a watery grave for every soul on board.
By the important decision of keeping fast the anchors, and cutting
away the mizzen-mast, the ship appeared to be relieved abaft, and to
be thrown over rocks into what we fancied to be a shoal; whereas; if
she had been at all checked by an anchor, all must have perished on
the spot where she struck. A heavy surf continued to roll in on us,
the spray breaking high over us on the decks: the hand-leads, however,
satisfied us that we were on sand, through which the weight of the sea
was forcing the ship; and, as she providentially took up a position
with her bow to the surf, hope began to dawn amongst us of the ship’s
holding together, and hence a chance for the safety of our lives, when
daylight should assist us in discovering the means of attempting it.
Another danger had also excited our apprehensions, from an appearance
of dark water astern of us, inside the surf, apparently rendering
it indispensable to drop our anchors to hold the ship on the sand,
to avoid foundering in deep water: for we had become aware of the
impossibility of keeping her afloat, as she had been seriously bilged
about midships, the tanks and chain cables rising to the lower deck as
the ship worked in the sand in which she was now embedded. The leads,
however, continuing to assure us that she still bedded with tolerable
firmness, the anchors were kept fast; the prudence and good fortune
of which step daylight fully disclosed to us. On her first striking
amongst the breakers, the rudder was carried away, the gun-room beams
and cabin deck forced up, and a vast body of water coming in astern
flooded the gun-room and lower deck: many of the timbers on the
starboard side were heard to break with a fearful crash.
The excellent conduct and good discipline of all on board, in this
extremity of danger, merited the highest praise. Although every
heart must have felt the hopelessness of our situation, there was
evinced that steady attention to the orders which were given, free
from confusion or the slightest disobedience. How frequently did
we afterwards remark on the fatal result that must inevitably have
followed any rash attempt which, under the influence of terror, might
have been made, to quit the wreck, and, I trust, with feelings of
humble thankfulness to the providential mercy which had thus far
preserved and directed us.
The main-deck ports had been caulked in for our voyage round Cape Horn,
and had fortunately not been started. The main-deck hatchways were
battened down; but it was necessary to scuttle the lower deck, from
the quantity of water taken in over all. From the drawing of the ship
through the sand, the hand-pumps constantly going, enabled us to keep
her sufficiently free to allow us to get up a considerable quantity of
dry biscuit, which was put into some of our empty water-casks: some
ball-cartridges were also got up, and placed in the dryest situation
on the main-deck. Yet, at this time, so slender was the hope of saving
ourselves, or any thing belonging to us, that the ship’s accounts,
with a private packet or two, were secured in a cask, to be thrown
overboard, with the chance of its reaching the shore, and telling the
fate of the poor Challenger.
Towards midnight, some officers and men thought they perceived land
astern; and, on the starboard quarter, many were the eyes which eagerly
sought out a gleam for their deliverance. We now attempted, by means
of blue lights and rockets thrown in the direction, to ascertain the
existence of land, but without success. The moon having at length
risen, we, at about 2 30′ A.M., after anxiously watching the dispersion
of some heavy clouds, got sufficient moonlight to make certain the
sight of land. Those who witnessed that moment will long remember the
joy and emotion which it gave rise to; for the horrors of the preceding
four hours had been surcharged with the torturing apprehension of
lingering death. Dark and desponding must be that mind which, at such a
crisis, could not derive some solace in the hope of succour from that
omnipotent Being, who governs the storm, and alone has the power to
save.
The weather continued dark and gloomy, with occasional drizzling rain,
but little wind, though squally-looking clouds were passing rapidly
over our heads--a high irregular surf breaking on all sides around us
with a noise and roar not to be forgotten. The dangerous nature of
the surf made it evident that no common boat could pass through it in
safety; and the ship having become, in a measure, less laboursome,
the jolly-boat and gig were prepared as life-boats by lashing to them
small boats’ breakers and spars, to be ready for use on the return of
daylight.
_May 20._--At daylight the shore presented a long, low, flat sandy
beach, with a tremendous surf rolling in on it, extending to the
southward a distance interminable to the eye; in the W.N.W. direction
an elevated promontory of land extended out to the westward, with a
reef of scattered rocks, distant from us between two and three miles.
To land the crew was the first object to which our attention was
directed. The only mode to effect this appeared to be by succeeding
in establishing a means of communication by a rope, or hawser, whence
to raft the crew from the ship to the beach, the nearest distance to
which was about two cable-lengths. With this view the jolly-boat was
lowered over the stern into the surf under the charge of Mr. A. Booth,
mate, and a volunteer crew of seven men; and, after a long struggle,
they succeeded in reaching the beach with the end of the deep sea
lead-line; but, owing to the strong set of the current along shore to
the southward, the spot on which they landed was at least half a mile
distant from that part of the beach immediately astern and nearest the
ship. The jolly-boat was no sooner washed upon the beach, than the
crew, thoroughly drenched, began the labour of endeavouring to tauten
the line in the direction astern of the ship; but, after many fruitless
attempts to do so, it was evident to us on board that a second boat,
with more assistance, was absolutely necessary to effect this object.
The bite of the line was much checked by the current and masses of
shifting sand, caused by the immense back-set off the beach. It was
now the gig was launched over the stern by means of the spanker-boom,
rigged as a derick, and secured to the stump of the mizzen-mast,
with a topping lift to the mainmasthead, and hung ready to drop at
a favourable moment into the surf: she was the captain’s gig, and
considered to possess qualities likely to ensure equal success with the
boat that had already reached the shore, being carefully fitted in a
similar manner.
Into the gig went Mr. Gordon, midshipman, a most zealous volunteer, who
had anxiously sought the dangerous attempt of going in the first boat:
with him were six volunteer seamen. One of the six, serving his time
on board for having been a smuggler, and possessed of great activity
and strength, was placed in the charge and management of the steer-oar,
the nature of the surf rendering a rudder useless. On leaving the stern
of the ship, cheered by all on board, they passed over a roller or two
in security, and the superior management of the steer-oar appeared to
promise certain success. But, alas! another and another terrific roller
followed, the gig broached-to, was instantly capsised, and whirled
over and over. This heartrending sight again damped the hopes of all;
and what added to the cruel and distressing situation of those in the
ship, was the impossibility of rendering the least assistance to our
poor shipmates, now struggling with death in the dangerous surf. Most
anxiously were our glasses directed to the spot, when occasionally, as
they drifted to the southward, their heads were at moments visible.
By this melancholy accident perished Mr. Gordon, a most excellent
young man, possessed of every quality to fit him for the highest
station in his profession. He was much esteemed by his captain, not
only for his efficiency, but for his many estimable qualities. He was
greatly beloved by his brother shipmates, and much regretted by all.
John Edwards, an excellent seaman, was also lost by this sad event.
Their bodies were never found, and were supposed to have either been
carried out to sea by the back-set, or buried in the sand. The others
of the crew of the gig were taken out of the water by the crew of the
jolly-boat, nearly exhausted, and more than three quarters of a mile to
the southward.
At about 6 A.M. this morning (20th), a ship was discovered through
the haze about three or four miles outside the breakers, standing in
for the land. Seeing the danger of her situation, one of the after
main-deck ports was opened, two guns fired as a signal to her, and
an ensign hoisted to the main-topmast crosstrees, with the union
downwards: she tacked, and stood off, hoisting Swedish colours. The
rollers broke outside us, to a distance of at least a mile and a
quarter, and it was impossible for her to render us any assistance:
little doubt existed amongst us, that we were the hapless beacon of her
danger: another hour’s dark might have placed her alongside us.
A three and a half inch hawser had, after much labour, been dragged to
the beach: we had now constructed two rafts, by lashing on empty casks
strong cross spars, yards, and mess tables; and about 11 A.M. it was
determined to try the first by sending a lieutenant and seven men, a
kedge-anchor, a stout hawser, and a hawling line, which reached the
shore with difficulty, far to the southward, and was thrown so high on
the beach, and so shaken, that she could not again be launched this
day. About 2 P.M. the second raft was hoisted over, and, with the first
lieutenant, assistant surgeon, captain’s clerk, several of the junior
midshipmen, who were secured to the raft by life lines, and thirteen
seamen, making a total in number of nineteen persons, were successful
in landing in safety. The weight and draft of this raft, from its load
(having, in addition to the passengers, several articles of provisions
and arms), made the operation of getting a footing on the beach, from
the back set of the surf; a critical one; and it was on this occasion
that a small body of Indians, on horses, many of whom had been first
seen approaching from the hills soon after daylight, dashed into the
water, and with their lazos assisted the landing of those on it. One of
the most active of the party was an Indian woman.
Our kedge anchor was now buried, and the stout hawser hauled on board,
and hove taut, and an attempt to make a second trip with the last
raft; but it was upset in the surf, under the stern, and one seaman
who had jumped upon it was a long time in great peril of being washed
off it, whilst it drifted back to the beach, the slip rope which had
attached it to the hawser, by which it had been hove off, having
parted. At 3 P.M. the ship appeared to have neared the shore, and it
was determined to lash some stout spars to the cutter, and launch her.
She landed safely, though nearly filled with water, having conveyed on
shore officers, seamen, and marines, to the number of thirteen. It was
now nearly dusk, and the whole number landed scarcely exceeded fifty
persons. All hands were greatly exhausted, from fatigue both of mind
and body, were drenched with wet, and required rest. The comfortless
situation of those on shore, on a barren sand, wet through, with
scanty refreshment, and a bitter cold frosty night, may be imagined;
great anxiety also existing as to the fate of their shipmates on
board. A watch was kept on the beach throughout the night, whilst
others got shelter under the rafts, and on the side of a mound of
sand, at some little distance. To those in the ship an equal share of
excessive fatigue and mental anxiety had rendered rest from labour most
necessary. The ship continued buried in the sand, and was comparatively
quiet, although at intervals labouring, and feeling most sensibly the
weighty shocks of the unceasing rollers. A watch attended throughout
the night to observe the lead lines; the anchors were kept ready in the
event of its being found necessary to drop them, in order to retain
the ship’s bows in their position towards the rollers; and the pumps
kept working. Much had been done during the past day not yet mentioned:
the danger as well as difficulty of communication with the shore had
occasioned a vast quantity of the bedding and clothes of the crew to be
thrown overboard, attached to pieces of spars, which, on being washed
on shore, were received by those on the beach. In addition to these
articles were casks filled with bread, casks of salt pork, and a great
number and variety of other things. Amongst these a quantity of segars,
which had been put into empty bottles and securely corked, were washed
up in good condition.
Captain Seymour had hastily written a letter to His Majesty’s consul
at Concepçion, from which place we hoped we were not very distant,
of which the assistant surgeon, who spoke a little Spanish, and the
clerk of the Challenger, had volunteered to be the bearers. They had
landed in the second raft; and to find a fit person to conduct these
gentlemen, in an unknown country, through thick woods, across rivers,
along roads in places almost impassable, was an object of the greatest
interest and importance, and which the suspicious countenances of the
Indians, who had become numerous around us, and to whom we could not
make ourselves understood, afforded little promise of accomplishing. By
a most providential circumstance Camilo Hermosillo, a Spanish Chilino
from the neighbourhood of the frontier town of Arauco, had come to the
southward to purchase cattle, and hearing of a wreck, had accompanied
an Indian cacique to the spot of our misfortune. This honest man gave
the clue to all our future correspondence.
After much negotiation, and being piqued on his Castilian blood, and
with fair promises of reward, Camilo undertook to become the guide,
and procure the horses necessary for a journey to Concepçion. We were
indebted to the zealous exertions of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, for our
success, which is to be attributed, in a great measure, to his perfect
knowledge of the Spanish language and character.
From Camilo we obtained the first outline of our situation. We
were informed that the name of the spot on which we were wrecked
was Molquilla, in the province of Arauco, sixty leagues south of
Concepçion, and about thirty-five miles from the island of Mocha; and
by observations afterwards taken on shore with our artificial horizon,
in latitude 37° 48′ 48″ south, and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ west. It
lies at the extreme southern verge of that portion of the Araucanian
Indian territory in which the Indians tacitly acknowledge the authority
of the Chilian government; and under its influence the caciques had,
for the previous twelve months, been carrying on a war of extermination
against the more southern Indians of Tucapel, Tercia, and Imperial. We
also learnt that, on the 20th of February last, the city of Concepçion
had been totally destroyed by an earthquake, since which shocks had
been continually felt upon the coast in the vicinity, and of which
we had soon experience. The position on the beach where the landing
had been made was described as untenable; and it was recommended to
take the highest elevation that the small sand-hills on the extensive
flat around us afforded, as a security from the rising of the sea,
which in three days after rose far above the spot on which our first
communication with Camilo took place, and level with the base of
the small sand-hill of scarcely ten feet elevation on which we were
encamped.
With the assistance of the Indian cacique, horses were procured; and
with the greatest satisfaction we saw from the ship our two shipmates,
with their guide, at half past four, depart on their journey to
Concepçion, the Indians retiring to the hills on the approach of
dusk. In the ship, six larboard after-main-deck guns had been thrown
overboard to counteract an inclination which she had to fall over on
her larboard broadside, the fore-topmast cut away, and the main-topmast
struck, and the sails cut from the yards, and sent on deck ready to
transport to the shore for tents.
_May 21._--At daylight all hands were labouring hard in working the
rafts between the shore and the ship. So powerfully had the surf acted
on the hull of the ship during the night, that she was forced one half
the distance that we had been, on the 20th, nearer the beach; and
hence our future operations, though still harassing from the breaking
in of the surf, were rendered free from danger. The weather proving
fine, the sick were landed during the morning: we had three in cots,
who were hoisted over the stern, and secured on a heap of bedding
and casks sufficiently high to prevent more than a little spray from
reaching them. They were carried up to the mound of sand on which the
choice had fallen as the site of our camp. Numerous Indians came from
the neighbouring hills to reconnoitre us, with the Cacique Cheuquante,
with a considerable retinue of them and a Spanish interpreter, offering
assistance against the southern Indians, of whom they evinced a great
dread. Although the disinterestedness of these offers were prudently
estimated, policy enjoined address and conciliation to cultivate their
confidence and good opinion; and the captain, who had observed the
increase of Indians, landed about 2 P.M. to organise the crew and
construct a camp, and keeping in view these considerations, accepted
the services of a few as look-out men.
A large tent was erected on the mound of sand for the crew, composed
of two topsails, a main course, and some studding sails, and near it
a smaller one for the captain and officers. Into this latter tent
were conveyed all the small arms which had been landed, cutlasses,
pikes, and some ball cartridges, together with any other articles,
which time and labour had allowed us to collect and bring up for the
night. The spot on which we had fixed for our encampment was distant
from the wreck about half a mile: the beach, which we learnt was
about forty-five miles in extent, formed the line of sea boundary to
the swampy, sandy marsh, in which was situated the mound which held
our camp. This flat extended inland to a chain of irregular hills,
distant four or five miles, on which were visible patches of trees and
underwood. From these hills ran, in the direction of the sea, a small
stream of good fresh water, which passed immediately at the base of the
mound on which we were encamped. This stream proved to us a blessing of
inestimable value, for our stock of water on board had become damaged
soon after our misfortune, from the overflowing of the sea-water
into the tanks; and to have sent to any distance for water, in our
increasing apprehension of the conduct of the Indians, would have added
much to our embarrassment. Before the night had closed in on the 21st,
we had, by the construction of tents, secured a tolerable shelter for
all who were on shore. An officer, with an appointed number of men,
remained on board the wreck to attend to the working of the pumps, the
tautening of the hawsers, and to watch the labouring of the hull, the
surf continuing to roll in with its usual overpowering force, the noise
of which on shore, during the night, was quite stunning. The weather
throughout the day had been tolerably fine, the wind moderate from the
N.W., and the night threatened to be cold and frosty. On the approach
of night, the Indians, who had been numerous, moved off in various
directions towards the hills: they usually came in the morning, in
groups, on horseback and on foot, from six to eight in a party, making
the shortest route to our camp which the standing pools of water, which
were numerous, would allow.
Before the crew were permitted to partake of any refreshment, the
arms were distributed to be dried, cleaned, and prepared for use, and
all were cautioned as to their conduct to be observed towards the
Indians. The scene of our encampment on this night it is not in the
power of any one to imagine, who was not witness to it. The exhaustion
from incessant labour throughout the day was evident in all; not
an article of clothing or bedding had reached the shore, without
having experienced the drenching effects of the surf, and the heaps
of innumerable articles that were scattered on all sides, formed a
melancholy contrast to our customary order and regularity in our poor
lost ship. Bounded in our rear by a marsh, which the rainy season, now
at hand, would convert into a lake; the ocean in our front, rising
occasionally within little more than a hundred yards of our camp, and
from which the effects of an earthquake, (slight, indeed, compared to
that which so recently occurred at Talcahuana, where the sea rose
thirty feet,) might have swept us away; and the probability of a visit
from the hostile southern Indians, who the preceding year had plundered
of every article the unfortunate crews of four merchantmen, wrecked
upon the coast, left us only the uncheering prospect of equivocal
hospitality from our northern neighbours,--a barbarous race who murder
the adults, and sell for slaves the infant children, of their captured
enemies. Fires were made, and some salt pork cooked for our suppers;
each also receiving an allowance of rum. A watch, consisting of an
officer, a midshipman, and a proportion of the men under arms, was
established for the night, and rest anxiously sought for on the sand
under our canvass.
_May 22._--Daylight saw all hands, who were not disabled from previous
exhaustion, hard at work in tautening the hawsers from the wreck to
the shore, working the pumps, and getting on shore our stream-anchor,
which, after some difficulty, was buried in the sand, and backed with
a gunslide: to it we bent the chain and hemp stream-cables, which were
brought to the capstan on board; and, by keeping a strain on them, the
hull continued, from the force of the sea, and daily becoming lighter,
to near the shore. We now worked hard to secure whatever provisions we
could get at, spars and sails to strengthen our tents, and arms and
ammunition for our protection against molestation on the part of the
Indians.
One of our nine-pounder long guns was also got up and pointed over the
stern of the ship, so as to cover our camp, as well as give protection
to the ship. The weather to-day was cold and frosty, with fog: the surf
appeared to be forming a ridge of sand outside the bows of the ship;
the hull at times working a good deal, particularly in her lower frame,
the stanchions and bulkheads in the lower deck and holds having given
way, and the chain-lockers displaced. She was in sand to the depth of
eight or nine feet. The fore-yard was got over the side, and drifted to
the beach. Many stores and provisions were collected, and taken to the
encampment, with several articles of comfort, such as tea, which had
escaped damp, wine, and cooking utensils; likewise the coppers for the
ship’s company’s cooking.
A party had erected another large tent for the captain and officers,
their previous tent being now appropriated to the warrant officers
and stores. At one end of the officers’ tent was placed the dingy,
now converted into a powder magazine. The state of our arms was
particularly examined into in the course of the day, and the camp as
much organised as circumstances had as yet permitted us. The Indians
had been numerous throughout the day, but not unfriendly, and many
exchanges had been made between them and the crew, of apples, fowls,
and potatoes, for wet clothes, or any description of metal: still we
were far from feeling easy about them, from their known savage and
wild character. Several of the Cacique Cheuquante’s Indians arrived,
with their long spears, and had collected close to us, as our accepted
look-outs against their brethren the hostile Indians, who were in
force beyond the neighbouring hills, but kept in check by an opposing
party, under the influence of the government of Chili, in command
of the Cacique Colissi. With Cheuquante’s Indians was the Spanish
interpreter before mentioned,--Rafael Lobo, a half-bred Indian, who
assumed an authority over them, and with whom we had afterwards much
communication. A vast quantity of scattered articles was collected
from the beach, and brought within the limits of our camp. An armed
watch was at dusk placed round the tents, and twenty-five men, under
the command of the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, remained on board in
charge of the wreck.
_May 23._--began with fog, and moderate northerly wind. The operation
of tautening the cables was attended to as the wreck continued to
be forced farther on the beach. Several more of the main-deck guns
having been thrown overboard, assisted this. To aid the landing heavy
articles, the lower yards were secured with hanging lashings to the
stern, and pointed towards the beach. On these were lashed cross
spars; and eventually a rough platform was established, which proved
of infinite utility in our operation of clearing the wreck. The
chain-pumps were occasionally worked to get at the store-rooms and
holds, which had become flooded as high as the situation of the hull in
the sand allowed, the depth of water in the holds averaging from seven
to nine feet. Cheuquante’s Indians had increased their number of spears
to twenty-seven, and with them were a numerous body of straggling
Indians, who had collected from all directions, in numbers exceeding
our force. Some apprehension was felt by the crew lest they might
become victims to treachery. This immediately reached the captain’s
ear, who, without loss of time, summoned the men and officers in camp
around him, explained to them the better motives of the Indians, yet
pointing out the propriety of observing distance with them, and that
his orders would exclude them from communication with our camp; that
his determination was to assume the best possible state of defence,
and to maintain our position, in the event of an attack, until
information might arrive from the consul at Concepçion, to govern our
movements; and that, as British seamen, he felt confident they would
show, by obedience and good conduct, their title to that character.
This short and well-timed address dissipated their misgivings, and
forcibly exemplified the general confidence which the mild exercise of
authority is calculated to inspire. The men were satisfied, returned
cheerfully to their tents, and their hardships and privations in
camp, although extended to a period of seven weeks, never afterwards
excited a murmur. The constant and laborious operation of landing the
stores and provisions, the men being constantly wet through, from
the breaking-in of the surf, may, at least by the naval reader, be
comprehended: our exertions, however, enabled us to rely on our own
resources for subsistence as well as defence. No sooner had we begun to
examine our situation with reference to strengthen it, than Rafael Lobo
expressed great apprehensions and alarm that an attack from the hostile
Indians, or, as he termed them, “Enemigos” Indians, would be made
upon us, and urgently advised our removing two leagues distant to the
northward; for, said he, if we remained in our present position, they
would have an advantage, from our exposed situation in a flat plain,
and, to use his own meaning, the mounted Indians would ride over us.
Captain Seymour consented, therefore, to send two officers with him,
for the purpose of examining the ground; but the disadvantage of being
at such a distance from the wreck was greater than any slight security
that would be afforded us by changing our present position. He was
therefore told by the captain his determination to defend the ground he
now occupied; and with that view he proceeded to strengthen it by every
means in his power.
[Illustration: _Plan of Molguilla Camp, showing the Position of the
Crew under Arms._]
An offer was made to Rafael Lobo to put up a small tent, at a little
distance south of our camp, for shelter for himself and his armed party
of Indians, which was accepted. It may not be here misplaced to give
a slight sketch of the history and character of the savages amongst
whom it had been our fate to be thrown. The population of the province
of Arauco in Chili is by far the most warlike in the whole of South
America: all the valour and experience of the Spanish arms, in the
days of their greatest glory, failed in their obstinate and repeated
endeavours to subdue the Indians of Arauco, who have maintained their
independence to the present day, and are denominated by the Spaniards
“The unconquerable Araucanos.” A beautiful epic poem in the Spanish
language, written by Don Alonso de Ervilla y Zunija, published in
1590, describes the battles in which he was actively engaged. His
descriptions of the wonderful valour and perseverance of those valiant
Indians would appear exaggerated, did not their protracted and heroic
resistance against the best men of Spain, at a period when every
Spanish soldier was a hero, fully justify the truth of the narration.
The greatest part of the Araucanos are, to the present day, engaged in
a war of extermination with the Chilino Spaniards.
The Araucano Indian is strong-built and active, with long shaggy
dark hair hanging all round his head, as low as his shoulders; and
when attacking an enemy, it is allowed partially to cover his face:
his person is on these occasions frequently smeared over with mare’s
blood. His legs are bare to the knees; he wears a kind of short
loose drawers, made of Indian manufacture, with a poncho of the same
material; rides a horse of poor appearance, but great capacity, with
large spurs of iron, if he can get them, secured to his bare heel
with hide straps; his stirrups are only large enough to admit his
great toe. Under his poncho, round his waist, is a large knife, often
as broad as an English billhook; a set of bolas[1]; and attached
to his saddle is his lasso. His spear is a long bamboo staff, with
a sharp iron point on its end, which, from its length (twenty-five
feet or more), is very flexible, and when in use is kept constantly
moving, so that the eye of the adversary cannot discover the intended
spot of thrust. The women are often mounted in a similar manner,
with the addition of a sort of wrapper round the upper part of the
legs. Their cunning is very great. They are very dirty; and they
appear, in point of civilisation, a most degraded race of savages.
Their principal food is potatoes, sometimes a little meat, frequently
the flesh of mares; and they eat many of the numerous kinds of nuts
and berries which abound on the hills in the interior of their
country. Salt is an article much in request amongst them. It was not
uncommon to see a group of them squatted round a grass net of boiled
potatoes, with a lump of rock-salt, which they constantly passed from
mouth to mouth, round their circle, each taking a hearty suck. The
surf continued heavy, and, at intervals, affected the wreck a good
deal. The evening closed in with foggy damp weather: the arms were
examined, and the watches on board, as well as in the camp, mustered
preparatory for the night.
_Sunday, May 24._--The necessary operation of heaving in on our
stern-fasts was early attended to. The hull had, during the night, been
labouring heavily, and was a good deal displaced from her position of
yesterday: the wind was northerly, and the rollers broke so heavily,
that the surf passed over its usual mark, and rolled far up towards
the mound of sand on which we were encamped; moving the boats, and
several articles which were laying, as was supposed, on a spot free
from the approach of the surf. This day had been set apart as a
day of rest; and we were about to make arrangements for performing
divine service, when a party of horsemen were seen approaching from
the direction of Arauco. They proved to be twelve men belonging to
the militia established there, under the charge of Don Bernardino
Hermosillo, a captain in that corps, who brought a letter for Captain
Seymour from Mr. Jagoe, one of the officers despatched to Concepçion,
reporting their progress, and that every facility would be given in the
further course of their destination. It appeared that our shipmates
were received at Arauco with great kindness by the Chilian authorities,
who immediately ordered to Molquillo (the place of wreck) the above
party, with a view, as the Spanish despatch of Don José Bustermente to
the minister of the interior afterwards expressed, “to prevent robbery
and extortion, and to advise and aid in resisting any attack that the
Indians might be induced to make from the attraction this misfortune
might present to them for pillage.” To send a force capable of ensuring
protection to us was not in their power. This party was accompanied
by the Cacique Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, with an escort of
several Indians, all mounted; he presented the captain with a small
ox, supposing us to be straitened for provisions. We offered them a
little rum and water, and biscuit; and, after a long interview, the
cacique and party retired to the tent of Rafael Lobo, and eventually to
the hills. Pinoleo is a fine powerful-looking man, but understood to
be very absolute and passionate. The captain had, in thanking him for
his present, regretted his having nothing to offer him in return for
his kindness; which caused him to rise, and, with great vehemence of
expression, in his Indian language, to declaim against the supposition
that, in our condition he should seek for a return. Pinoleo is the
brother of Colissi, the cacique, who, with the aid of 100 carbineers of
Arauco, was fighting and keeping in check Cadin, the hostile cacique of
Jucapel and Tirua. He was the most civilised-looking of the caciques
which we had occasion to meet. He wore a cloth cap with a gold-lace
band; had a very large set of bolas round his waist, under his poncho,
with the usual knife. His wife (who, we were informed, was one of
many) and daughter were much ornamented with glass bead necklaces, and
small silver plates, bits of brass or other metal, strung round their
heads and necks: they wore, over their feet and legs, boots made of
the skins of a colt’s legs, the hair inside, the knee part forming the
heel of the foot, and the rest so shaped as to prove a convenient part
of dress. A small handkerchief bound round their heads, and a band of
braided beads in the form of a crown, confined their hair. They managed
their horses equally as well as the men, riding in the same manner. The
captain, and one or two of the officers, found a few presents for the
ladies, which caused much pleasure to their party. We shortly after
heard that, in a fit of drunkenness, Pinoleo had killed this wife, by
knocking her on the head with his bolas: this occurred at the hut of
a poor Indian, who had taken pains to entertain Pinoleo and party, as
liberally as his means would allow, at supper. On this Indian he called
for an indemnification for the loss of his wife, and the payment of a
sum of dollars, which had led to the misunderstanding with his wife;
but, not having it in his power to satisfy the cacique, he was forced
to fly from his lands, his property of cattle becoming the prey of
Pinoleo. Such is the present state of justice between man and man in
the province of Arauco.
Our worthy shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, with his intimate
knowledge of the Spanish language, was the source of all our
communication with the Chilinos, and, through an interpreter, with the
Indians: his valuable assistance was of vital importance to all; but
his patience was sadly tried, from the unceasing calls made on his
attention as spokesman.
A tent was erected outside our line of camp for our new force of
Chilinos; who zealously commenced the important service of establishing
a line of scouts, in the direction of the hostile Indians, amongst
the hills to the southward. Don Bernardino liked not the vicinity
of our Indian look-out, aware, as he stated he was to us, of their
frequent acts of treachery. To his party we spared a daily proportion
of our provisions, which, in addition to an occasional forage to the
northward, which some of them made, fully satisfied their wants.
Through Don Bernardino we were enabled to obtain, from some one of the
caciques, a bullock or two, which were driven down to our camp for
beef; and from the hills were brought, by the daily straggling Indians,
a moderate number of fowls, with potatoes and apples, for which the
officers and crew bartered whatever they had to spare that attracted
the rapacity of the Indian. The weather, towards night, became thick,
the surf sounding loud and heavily. Our usual precautions were taken in
watching through the night.