collecting on the beach, and who evidently seemed inclined to be
friendly, and disposed to render assistance to the party on shore),
but to no purpose, as we could not make ourselves understood. Happily
for us, at this moment a Chilino rode up: he possessed a pleasing
countenance, and to him we communicated our wish to be guided to
Concepçion, and inquired the distance, which, to our great surprise,
we found to be 180 miles. I introduced Mr. Sarjeant (who understands
the Spanish language thoroughly) to this Chilino, who, after a
few preliminary remarks, agreed to conduct us to Concepçion for a
stipulated sum, furnishing horses and all necessaries on the road:
but as this Chilino’s horses were at his petraro, eight leagues from
the beach, he stood our guarantee for eight dollars with the cacique
Cheuquante, for the hire of two horses to take us there; and about
half-past 4 three horses arrived, equipped in perfect Indian style,
when, after some slight refreshment of biscuit and rum, we took leave
of our fellow-sufferers. We rode along the beach about a league, then
turned off for the interior, pursuing our way to the foot of some low
hills, until we came to the cacique Cheuquante’s dwelling, at about
6 o’clock, at which time it was nearly dark. There we met Don Rafael
Lobo, an Indian apparently of Spanish blood from his countenance. He
speaks the Spanish language well, and acts as interpreter, and holds
the commission of lieutenant of the friendly Indians of the district
of Tucapel, and appears to have much influence over them. He urged us
much to remain the night. We were much questioned whether we belonged
to a merchant ship; if the cargo was saved; of what it consisted; and
when we were going to land it: to which Mr. Lane replied, that she was
a vessel of war, laden with “powder and ball;” which, on communicating
to the group of Indians surrounding us, they held up their hands,
howled, and scratched their savage heads, expressive either of
astonishment or disappointment. After exchanging our horses, which was
the object of our coming here, we continued our way by the side of a
thickly-wooded mountain, until the road, if such it maybe called, the
horses being knee-deep in water, turned off through this forest. We
had not proceeded more than a hundred yards, when the guide called
out, ‘Yo he perdido el camino,’ (I have lost the road.) It was at this
time quite dark. Such were our prospects, on a cold freezing night,
without a dry thread, and Mr. Lane without shoes. The guide rode about
two hours, endeavouring to regain the road, or find an opening through
almost impenetrable wood, whilst we remained on one spot, occasionally
striking sparks with a flint and steel to show our position. At last,
fatigued and weary with disappointment, he returned, and pronounced
sorrowfully that he had quite lost the road, and we must make up our
mind to wait for daylight. Not knowing more of our guide than might
be judged of by inexperienced physiognomists, we thought it prudent,
in spite of his pleasing countenance, to retire to some distance from
him: here we laid down, with our heads on each other’s knees, to keep
them out of the wet, giving the signal to turn when either became so
insufferably cold or cramped as to require relief. During the night
we were alarmed by the frightful neighing of our horses, which our
guide informed us was occasioned by the approach of the pinna, a small
lion of South America, which is reported to be an enemy to horses, but
not to man. In the confusion our guide’s horse got away, and he was
a considerable time before he found it; and we heard no more of the
intruders. To prevent any further accident, we secured the long bridles
of our horses to our arms, in such a manner as made it impossible they
could escape without our knowledge, should we be so fortunate as to
sleep. Shortly after this we were again alarmed by the barking of
dogs, and trampling of horses approaching, as we supposed, in the road
we had lost.
“We distinctly heard the voices of Indians, and, if we had known
their language, might have been in possession of their intentions:
we had no doubt but that they were the party we left at the raucho,
who endeavoured to prevail on us to stop the night, and that they
were in search of us. When they were so near as to hear if we uttered
a word, our guide, in a low tone, said ‘Hush!’ and when the horses
made a rustling noise amongst the bushes, he evaded suspicion by
grunting like a pig. We asked no questions, but remained in a state of
indescribable anxiety till daylight, the 21st, when, wet, cold, hungry,
and miserable, we rubbed ourselves to circulate the blood and reanimate
our almost frozen limbs. Some time was lost in searching for Mr. Lane’s
coat, which had been lost when Camilo’s horse took fright, as we
could make no use of it as a covering or protection from the weather,
it having been washed on shore, and consequently thoroughly wet. On
finding the coat, we saddled our horses, mounted, and discovered the
road to be only ten yards from us, and that we had not more than a
hundred yards of the forest to pass through. We continued our journey
at seldom less speed than a canter; these horses having a peculiar sort
of pace, which they can maintain for a length of time almost incredible
to an English traveller. We came to a branch of the river Leubu, about
twenty or thirty miles inland: with little difficulty we crossed it on
horseback; and our guide’s horse being fagged, he took mine, fixed his
lasso to the saddle, rode after a few horses which were grazing near
us, and in a few minutes entrapped one of the poor animals in that
never-failing lasso: this was accomplished in less than ten minutes,
and we continued our way across the country till we came to the Rio
Leubu. (We had gone to some distance out of our way for the purpose
of getting this horse.) Here we dismounted, unsaddled our horses, and
hailed an Indian woman on the other side of the river, distant about
fifty yards, to know if she had any means of conveying us over. She
pointed to something in the shape of a canoe, lying on the bank of
the river, filled with mud and water, which, with the assistance of
another woman, she managed to turn bottom up, when it proved to be
nothing more than a trough, in which they kept their apples for making
chiahi, or cider (a very common beverage amongst them): after partially
cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they floated it, and one of
the women embarked, and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on
one side; and when the river turned, she allowed the current to sweep
it across, which nothing but her local knowledge of its windings could
have enabled her to accomplish. I was the first nominated by our guide
to trust to this conveyance, and accordingly slid down the bank (for
it was impossible to walk), and introduced myself to the goddess of
the deep, by the friendly Indian expression of ‘Mai mai,’ which serves
for ‘how do you do?’ ‘good bye,’ ‘very good,’ and is the beginning of
every friendly conversation. I embarked, after relieving myself of all
incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &c. thus preparing myself to
swim, if necessary; and, standing upright, balanced myself, much to
the satisfaction of my _waterwoman_. Mr. Lane and Camilo (our guide)
came over in the same way, each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to
embarkation our guide drove the horses into the river, over which
they swam without difficulty; and, on landing, the lasso was thrown
over their necks, which immediately stopped them. Here we went into
a raucho, where our waterwoman assumed the character of hostess, and
appeared to keep an Indian eating-house, from the quantity of dried
beef hanging about the raucho, and some boiling in an earthenware pot
on the fire, which she served up in a wooden bowl, when it proved to
be cascuella, made from cherqui and ahi (capsicums) boiled together.
As a substitute for spoons we used muscle-shells, and for bread we had
heated corn, beaten between stones, and moistened with water, something
about the consistency of birdlime. Our beverage was a mixture of water
and roasted barley, pounded; which, being put into a bullock’s horn
and violently stirred, produces an effervescence, in which state it is
drank. I need not say, however foreign as this was to our usual fare,
we made a hearty meal, not having eaten any thing substantial since
the night of the wreck. This repast occupied us about ten minutes;
after which we lighted our pajitas, and resumed our journey towards
the patraco of our guide, called Eurihuillin, from the river of that
name, which runs through it. Here we dismounted, and our guide, with
the assistance of his major-domo, went out and caught fresh horses,
while we sat by the fire drying our clothes, amused by the interesting
interrogations of two old dames, the major-domo’s wife and wife’s
sister, who were feeding us with roasted apples and potatoes.
Our guide came in with his trousers very much torn; and knowing that I
had a needle and some thread about me, applied to have them repaired.
This I was most ready to do, in return for the kind treatment we had
received, and the essential services he had rendered us. He then
killed a sheep, which was cut in halves, and put under our saddles,
as provisions for the journey. About one we again mounted, leaving
directions for the horses to be returned to the Indian from whom we
had borrowed them, took leave of our kind hostesses, and galloped
off on our fresh steeds, much invigorated; but before night things
we realtered--we were for galloping, and they for walking. About two
leagues from our guide’s residence, we crossed the river Euriheullin,
which forms the boundary of this part of his portraco, which is
about twelve miles in length, and as many in breadth, and consists
principally of coarse grazing ground in its primitive state, with
plenty of wood. For this estate he pays sixteen dollars a year to the
widow of a cacique. His stock consists of about 100 bullocks, and as
many sheep; the former valued at sixteen dollars, and the latter at six
reals each. A man’s rank or station in life is here generally estimated
by the number of cattle he possesses, together with the quality of the
poncho or mantle he rides in, without reference to the appearance of
any other part of his dress: from this we judged our guide to be above
mediocrity. During this day we rode from eighty to ninety miles, over a
rich and beautiful country, where Nature has bestowed her favours with
a liberal hand on an indolent and savage race, who are strangers to
every kind of agriculture beyond the cultivation of a few potatoes, for
which they prepare a fresh spot of ground every year. This will account
for the fine specimens we have met with in this country.
About 4 o’clock this afternoon, I lost my sword, from my carelessness
in forgetting to buckle my belt, after looking at my watch on
horseback. We were an hour looking for it; and this delay occasioned
our being benighted on a thickly wooded mountain, where we encountered
many difficulties from the intricacies of the passes, and the quantity
of water we had to wade through; but as our guide knew this part of the
road much better than that of the preceding day, we surmounted them
all, and reached the Indian pueblo of Albarada at 9 o’clock. Here we
went into a large rancho, crowded with dirty figures of both sexes,
and all sizes; besides a number of dogs, which were kicked out, and a
place near the fire cleared for us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying
tobacco and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which was soon done,
as they appear to have the pot always boiling, and also plenty of
potatoes at hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous manner, with
the edge of a muscle shell. Meanwhile the grey-headed dirty señora
of the family was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one of the
halves of the sheep, and putting it into the boiler with potatoes and
ahi. In the course of an hour it was served up in the usual way; and,
after inviting the señor and señora of the party, we brandished our
muscle shells in style, having become adepts in an art in which we
were novices but yesterday. We made a hearty meal, and having drunk a
sufficient quantity of chichi, we prepared our comfortless beds, having
only our saddle gear on which to rest our weary limbs. These we placed
close by the fire, and lay down to rest, surrounded by dogs and dirty
children: however, after our excessive fatigue, we slept tolerably well.
At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of some of those
intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas (with which we were covered), by
taking off and shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted potato,
saddled our horses, and mounted. The ground was frozen very hard, and
the air exceedingly cold. We had not gone far when my horse showed
symptoms of weakness, or disinclination to proceed, which obliged us
to go a considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique known to
our guide, to procure another. We had not only to go out of our way,
but down a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the greatest part
of the way on their haunches, when we came to a beautiful valley,
rendered still more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly risen
sun. Here, by the side of the river, were scattered a few huts or
ranchos, out of one of which came the cacique, who hailed us with that
friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously returned. Our guide
told him the nature of our expedition, and the cause of our visit,
when he immediately introduced us to the inmates of his dwelling (all
women, the caciques being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched
his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat by the fire smoking
pajitas, or eating roasted potatoes, occasionally making ourselves
understood by the women, to whom we offered some snuff, which, from
having been wet, was become caked: this they readily accepted, and
were about to put it into “_the general receptacle_,” when I stopped
them, and made them understand that it was not to be eaten, by taking
a pinch myself. They followed my example, but in a most strange
manner, by forcing it up their nostrils, and laughing hideously at
the ridiculous use thus made of their “smelling _apparatus_.” Being
gratified with the pleasing excitement this pungent powder produced,
they begged me to put some in a paper for them: this I was most happy
to do, as it was the first opportunity we had (even in this small way)
of showing our gratitude for the many and great kindnesses we had
received. My horse being brought and saddled, we mounted, leaving
directions for the disposal of the fagged horse. We then purchased
a goose, which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted our pajitas,
and took leave. We ascended this steep mountain in a manner more like
going up stairs than any thing else I can compare it to, the heavy
rains having given it the appearance of steps; the only support to the
horses’ feet being the roots of trees, which intersected the path, and
made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down on our horses’ necks to
escape being dragged off by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy
over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens, some having beautiful
flowers. We particularly noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower,
growing as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops of the tallest
trees, and striking the eye of the inexperienced traveller with its
incomparable beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the frontier
town of Chili, which is situated twenty leagues south of Concepçion,
on the extremity of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in length,
bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other by hills,
backed by the Cordilleras. This town (which formerly was nothing
more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by incessant warfare
and stratagem, subdued the Indians, and advanced thus far into their
territory,) is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the command of
Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo José Valenzuela, who was at this
time at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town, the knowledge of
our arrival having reached the second in command, Major Don José Sylva,
he ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress, and took us to
his quarters, and introduced us to five or six officers, to whom, with
himself, we shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like kindness
and hospitality, which, if I were not an Englishman, I ought to say
could not be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined: they informed
us that they would immediately despatch the brother of our guide,
Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry, with
a party of twelve men, to guard the wreck at Molquilla; at the same
time telling us that their reason for sending so small a number was,
because the Indians, so far south as the place where the ship had been
wrecked, had acknowledged the government of Chili, and were at present
assisting them, or rather themselves, by carrying on an interminable
and murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected towards
the government: the small force they were about to send was merely
to act as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile, and to
prevent treachery on the part of the friendly tribes, the place of
the shipwreck being on the extreme verge where they acknowledged the
government of Chili, and where their desperate battles are fought.
We took this opportunity of informing Captain Seymour how far we had
advanced on our journey; and Major Don José Sylva availed himself of
our going to Concepçion for communicating to their government what he
had done for the protection of the wreck.
At 2 P.M. we bade a reluctant adieu to these hospitable fellows,
deeply impressed with a sense of their kindness and our obligation.
We rode along the marsh, observing here and there a rancho, with a
spot of cultivated ground, till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos
(scarcely deserving the name of a pueblo) about three miles from
Lianco, called Caremfranque, after the river which runs near it.
Here we were introduced to the family of our guide, who all ran and
embraced their parent with affection, and heard from him all the
particulars connected with us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the
peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and put on a better poncho.
It has already been observed, that this part of the habiliment tends
to point out the station of life of him who wears it: it is due to
our guide to make known that his was a _very good_ one, confirming
his respectability and the good character given of his honesty by
the officers at Arauco: we can only add that, with the essential
service of guiding us to the consul (which we trust will be the
foundation of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown us the most
christian-like kindness and attention, entitling him to the friendly
appellation of “old Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave of
his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune and came to a few
scattered ranchos, named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity,
“Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced to a Chilian señorita,
a pretty brunette, gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo” that
we should stop at her house for the night, and, by starting the next
morning early, should most probably reach Concepçion in good time,
as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified by this pleasing
information, we dismounted, and after begging pardon for our dirty
appearance, supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was soon prepared,
and served up in the Chilian style by our industrious hostess, who, of
course, supped with us. During conversation, she told us that there
were some Englishmen in the village, and sent for them: they soon made
their appearance, and in the course of conversation we discovered them
to be North Americans. They made us a present of a dirty pipe and a
small quantity of tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this was no
treat, as we preferred the pajitas made with mild tobacco, wrapped in
the Indian corn-leaf, and presented by our charming hostess, who was an
adept in making them. After enjoying our aquaediente and pajitas, we
retired to bed and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed at daylight
on the 23d. We were delayed until seven o’clock for the horses; and
if the nature of our mission had not been so important, we might have
said the loss of time was not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was
busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At 7 we took leave, promising
to call on our way back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain
called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians “Muguana”--(this
being the place where they defeated the Spaniards and gained their
independence)--then over a plain of six leagues and upwards in length,
with here and there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered with
water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of San Pedro, on the southern side
of the Bio-bio, immediately opposite Concepçion.
Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to the means of conveying us
across the river, while we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom
he introduced us: she kindly brought us water, and we washed, leaving
our linen to undergo the same process, as we were covered with fleas.
Camilo returned, and told us the launch would not be ready for some
hours, and recommended our taking breakfast, which we were too happy to
agree to: we sat down and made a hearty meal.
About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed oblong launch, with
nearly a dozen passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs, and
several sacks of wheat. This conveyance was kept under command, against
a strong current, by an immense oar which answered the purpose of
a rudder. A man was stationed at each end of the launch with a long
pole, which, on first starting, was made use of a little, but when in
deep water she was merely kept end on to the current by means of the
rudder, until we approached the shallow water on the northern side,
which covers an extensive flat of sand. On grounding, the horses,
bullocks, and pigs disembarked, and the launch being again afloat,
was, by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance over the
flat, but still a considerable way from the beach. We disembarked, by
mounting our horses from the launch, and entered the city of Concepçion
(situated on the Bio-bio), which we found in a state of complete ruin,
not a single building standing, and the inhabitants living in tents
or wooden houses, which some of the more opulent had been able to
erect, as temporary residences. We learned that it had been destroyed
by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last: the fatal shock which
produced this devastation was felt at mid-day, without giving the
slightest warning, when every house and public building fell; and it
appears miraculous that only a hundred lives were lost. The port of
Talcahuana felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is reported
to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately after the earthquake,
breaking up on the ruins, inundating the flat on which the town was
situated, and sweeping every thing before it, barely giving the
inhabitants time to effect their escape to the hills.
About half-past 3 P.M., in one of these temporary wooden houses, we
found H. W. Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say
how happy we were to introduce ourselves to him, and deliver the
Captain’s letter. From our shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for
a moment eyed us with suspicion; but having opened the letter, his
countenance assumed an expression of benevolence and pity. He shook
hands with us, called for wine and water; and we immediately saw in
him all those characteristics which endear us to one another. He then
left us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the letter we brought
from the officers at Arauco: he did not return till 6, when we dined;
and the circumstances attending the wreck formed the subject of our
conversation, as Captain Seymour’s letter put him only in possession
of the bare fact. At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned in” to
comfortable beds, the Consul having previously left us to pay his last
visit to a dying native, and did not return till 4 in the morning, when
he awoke me, and related a few particulars connected with his visit,
and the customs of the people in such a case. This story was not at all
calculated to strengthen the nerves of a person whose whole system had
recently been severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him for the
shock of an earthquake which at this moment threatened destruction.
This shock roused me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped out
of bed, and was about to escape from the house, when the Consul called
out, “It’s over!” and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened
to expect more sleep. The Consul told us they had been visited with
shocks, more or less severe, ever since the great earthquake, which
amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch, as in conversation they
date every thing so many days before or after “the earthquake.” The
24th and 25th were employed in busily writing with the Consul, who
determined on accompanying us to the wreck; and requested our whole
assistance in preparing despatches for the Consul-general at Santiago,
and other persons likely to be the means of affording relief to the
unfortunate crew. I need not say that our undivided attention to
this and other services was commanded by this gentleman, in order to
expedite our return to the wreck, which was his most anxious desire,
his whole head and soul being in the hope of relieving or rendering
assistance to his distressed countrymen, fully aware that even if they
had all succeeded in reaching the shore in safety, there was great
danger to be apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should they come
upon them by surprise, or if they had not been able to save the means
of defence against that vindictive race of savages, who on former
disasters had plundered the unfortunate crews of four vessels wrecked
upon their coast, and who were more particularly to be feared at this
season of the year, as that intoxicating drink chichi is plentiful; and
when excited by this beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback,
armed with spears of bamboo from twenty to thirty feet in length, and
are not an enemy to be trifled with.
_May 26._--The despatches, having been completed at a late hour last
night, were sent off this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary
courier, who was to be rewarded for his services according to his
expedition: if he reached Santiago in seven days, he was to have
forty-five dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for every
day less than seven, and decreased in the same proportion for every
day more than seven. We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged
in preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing presents to
conciliate the Indians, indigo and other articles to traffic with them,
and hiring mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and guard the
numerous things the Consul thought might be of service to the crew,
whom he supposed might be destitute. We left Concepçion at half-past
five, and rode to the bank of the river, intending to cross and sleep
at San Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the launch had gone
over, and we were obliged to return to the Consul’s house, where we
dined and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak next morning.
_Wednesday, 27._--Arose, took an early breakfast, and crossed the
river. We were delayed at San Pedro till 2 P.M. in arranging loads for
the mules, hiring horses, &c.; at sunset had only reached the extreme
end of the plain before described.