a cycle well suited to the rider. Cyclists of experience get to
know their own requirements exactly and can suit their physical
peculiarities, but more often than not the beginner is entirely in the
hands of the cycle agent. Hence we so often see a slight, frail woman
struggling along with a great, heavy unwieldy machine altogether beyond
her strength, or on the other hand a heavy woman who is obviously
under-mounted. For riders who are of moderate height or even a little
over I believe in 26-inch wheels, but tall women should have 28-inch
wheels fitted to their machines, to look proportionate to the extra
high frame necessary. In the latter case everything else should be also
larger. The 26-inch wheels look well for all but very tall or stout
riders. The usual height of frame is about 21 inches measured from the
top of the frame--the part where the seat pillar is fixed in--to the
centre of the bracket axle (Fig. 7). This will accommodate riders
whose length of leg-reach is up to 32 inches or 33 inches. It is better
on the whole to have the frame too short than too long. It is more
rigid if short, and a little seat pillar standing out will not detract
greatly from the appearance. Always ascertain that there is a margin of
at least six inches between the height of the seat pillar, when down
at the lowest point, and when raised to the fullest height at which it
can be safely fixed. Exactly the same should apply to the stem of the
handle bars, as, if the saddle is raised the handles should be raised
to a corresponding degree, otherwise the rider will be in a stooping
position. The exact position of the handles depends a great deal on the
length of arm and length of body of the rider, but in the ordinary way
the lowest part of the handles should be at least two inches above the
saddle (see Fig. 7), as it is above all things necessary that the rider
shall not have to stoop forward when riding. On the other hand, the
handles must not be higher than is necessary for a comfortable grasp,
otherwise the effect will be extremely ungraceful. As the rider sits
in the saddle with her arms extended straight downward, she should be
able to swing them forward exactly into the riding position, without
bending the elbow in any appreciable degree.
In purchasing a cycle the most important points for the rider to
consider are:
1. Rigidity of frame.
2. Weight.
3. Width of tread.
4. Height of pedal from the ground.
[Illustration: _Fig. 7._]
Rigidity of frame means speed, _i.e._, ease of propulsion. If the frame
is badly designed it will yield sideways to the rider's pressure, and
much of the power which would be otherwise used to send it forward
will be wasted. If you grasp the steering head and the down tube of a
cycle (see Fig. 7) and endeavour to twist the frame, you can ascertain
whether it is rigid or not. It should not be possible to force these
two points towards each other at all, or to pull them sideways out of
line with each other. If you can, there will be no chance of riding up
a steep incline on _that_ machine! There is another essential matter on
which the purchaser can protect herself. This is to see that the cycle
is properly stayed in various parts of the frame. These "stays" bind
the whole frame firmly together and prevent "give" or yielding, when
pressure is applied on the pedals. In addition to the "stays" in the
front portion of frame (examples of which are shown in Fig. 7) there
should be a stay between the two back legs, just above the back wheel.
If you are purchasing a machine with an acknowledged reputation, and
made by a maker of standing, it can safely be assumed that these
matters have been provided for, as they would only be omitted on the
score of cheapness. Never on any account be persuaded to ride a machine
which is not fully guaranteed by a well-known firm. There are so many
points on which a cycle may be faulty, and the only safeguard to the
rider is that the work shall have been carried out in the most careful
and conscientious fashion throughout. Therefore I would repeat never
trust yourself on any but a machine by a good maker. Far better buy
even a good second-hand cycle than a "cheap" new one, for the latter
may cause constant trouble, to say nothing of the possibility of
serious accident.
The weight of an ordinary good-class ladies' machine should not be over
30-lbs. It is possible to obtain them fully equipped at about 28-lbs.,
but to get them at this or less either the weight of the tyres, etc.,
have to be very much reduced, or the fittings are not efficient. If
the tyres are very thin and light they will be constantly puncturing.
The gear case too should be of sufficient stability, and the same
remark applies to the dress-guards and mud-guards; in fact it is in
the fittings that the weight of a cycle is found, the actual frame not
weighing more than 5-lbs. as a rule. This is the reason why American
machines are lighter than English, the simple explanation being that
the former are fitted with the flimsiest of chain covers, mud-guard,
brake work, etc., whilst the English-made cycle is properly equipped
for use in all weathers.
The width of "tread" is important, as both for comfort and speed and
also on the score of appearance, the rider's feet should not be
wider apart than is absolutely necessary. A narrow "tread" is the
sign of a well designed machine. To measure this, the distance should
be ascertained between the inside faces of the two cranks, and this
distance should not be above five inches.
The height of the pedals from the ground is a point which is never
overlooked by a really good firm of cycle makers. It is desirable
to get the pedals as near to the ground as possible for comfort in
mounting and for ease of propulsion; but there is a limit, as if too
low, the pedal would be likely to catch the ground when the machine
leans over on a sharp corner. The consequence of this would be
disastrous to the rider. There is also the lesser danger of the pedal
striking a stone if too near the ground. The usual distance is about
ten or ten-and-a-half inches from the centre of bracket-axle to the
ground.
Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of
exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it
is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere,
from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free
circulation. Having said this, little more remains to add, as each
rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she
prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against
chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue,
I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen
knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these
which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very
heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to
give warmth.
A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time
of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of
our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut
skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few
really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they
should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or
other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit
well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not
hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right
length, she will not look well in motion.
The great difficulty is of course to get the "hang" right beside the
saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have
originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well.
This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material
of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at
the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not
move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is
made in mounting.
The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of
course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where
it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt
should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards
width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than
a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot.
At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of
movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the
right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should
always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as
only so can you tell how it will really answer.
For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I have found nothing better
than to pass the feet through a strap of 1/4-inch elastic, about nine
inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps
should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front
of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.
As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is
in my opinion the most suitable.
For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and
as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing
better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and
workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great
deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion
through any but the stillest of atmospheres.
As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be
recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.
An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health,
who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a
chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before
putting on a complete set of dry underclothing. It is by standing
about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which
was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a
shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your
pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not
even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should
for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then
put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally
prevent you from suffering any ill effects.
You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully
wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the
enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth,
and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has
dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather
or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to
keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub
with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight
application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts,
it will brighten them considerably. When it is known that the machine
will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts
should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood
in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also
very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings
should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally
overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out
when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for
the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat,
the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above
all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance
drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully
wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or
three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should
require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a
small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused
by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but
first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very
often a little attention to them will put matters right. As there are
so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little
use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily.
In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end
is unscrewed--after the dust cap is taken off--the whole mechanism
of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist
only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This
piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the
rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap,
attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the
end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.
If the rider does not object to a little trouble, a puncture can be
repaired at home, though the chief objection to the operation is the
dirty state in which it is apt to get the operator, unless indeed the
tyres are thoroughly cleaned first. When you buy a machine, the exact
details are given with each particular class of tyre, and general
instructions for repairing will be found included in the repair-outfit,
which can be purchased for about sixpence. This tyre-outfit consists
of a small quantity of solution--which be careful not to get on the
fingers--some rubber patches, and French chalk. When the inner tube
has been taken off, the valve should be refitted to it, and the tubes
inflated. Then pass the tube through water, using a shallow bowl for
the purpose. From each spot where there is a puncture, little air
bubbles will come out whilst the tube is under water. Mark these with
a pencil, let the air out--by the valve--and dry the tube. Then with
a piece of glass paper, clean the tube from sulphur--till the natural
dark colour of the rubber appears--where the puncture is, say for a
space as large as a sixpence. Put some solution thinly on the rubber
patch, let it nearly dry, and then press it down on the tube, on the
spot cleaned from sulphur, and hold it there for a minute or two. The
puncture of course will be in the centre of this spot if you have
managed properly. A little French chalk dusted over the patch will
prevent any solution there may be round the patch, from sticking to the
outer cover when the tyre is put together again.
With regard to the general adjustment of a cycle, it is most essential
that all the bearing parts should be in proper order, as any one
of them will make a very great difference in labour to the rider.
A few brief notes on the principal parts will enable the rider to
ascertain if her mount is in proper condition to do justice to her
own riding powers. First the chain. This should be oiled occasionally
in its whole length, so that each joint is properly lubricated. When
it has been oiled along the top half, the wheels should be revolved
sufficiently to bring the other half on top for oiling. The chain must
not be too tight, or the machine will be hard to drive, neither must
it be too loose, or accidents will occur. The state of the chain can
be ascertained by taking hold of one pedal, whilst the machine is at
rest with its weight on the ground. The pedal and crank should just
show the slightest perceptible movement, without moving the machine,
if the chain is in good order. The pedals should revolve twenty or
thirty times at least, when given a good sharp spin with the hand, and
there should be no perceptible shake in them. The steering is a very
important point, as if this is stiff it will increase the labour in
riding. If the front wheel is lifted from the ground, its own weight
should make it drop over to one side or the other, which ever way the
machine lies, else the steering is too stiff for easy riding. There
should be no shake whatever in the steering, the front wheel, when
tested, should be immoveable from the rest of the machine, either
backwards or forwards. All the bearings require a moderate oiling for
about every fifty miles you ride. Olive or other clear oil is used for
lubricating the bearings, and on no account must paraffin or a similar
oil be used, except for _cleaning_ the bearings out. Most cycle depôts
supply a suitable oil for lubricating. Once or twice in the year it
is advisable to run paraffin through the bearings, but care must be
taken to drain it all out afterwards, and the bearings should then be
oiled with proper lubricant. Sperm or colza oil is good for burning
in the lamp. Add a small piece of camphor to this to give a clearer
light. A little paraffin may be put on the top of the wick at the
burner, to make the lamp light easily, but if this is added to the
burning oil, the lamp will smoke, and be liable to jolt out over rough
places. If the machine is properly adjusted and well oiled, the wheels
should--after being revolved--swing back and forth once or twice with
their own weight. At the same time, no "shake" should be discernible
sideways, but the wheels should appear to be a rigid part of the
machine.
Lillian J. Hills.
A very useful aid to wheel-women is the _Cyclists' Pocket
Book_. Most portable and well printed, it contains all kinds of
useful information as to the obligations of cyclists, the care
of the machine, and some most excellent and practical hints to
those about to take a tour. A list of reliable cycle repairers,
of hotels which cater for cyclists, besides an almanack and
other items usually found in pocket books, are contained within
its covers. As there are books which no gentleman's library
should be without, so this is one of which no cyclist's pocket
should be empty.
[Illustration: _Fig. I_]
[Illustration: _Fig. II_]
FANCY FIGURES AND MUSICAL RIDES.
The branch of Cycling familiarly known as "figure riding" is open
to all, and there is no doubt that the short turns and rapid curves
required are not only fascinating, but at the same time excellent
practice. The control over the machine given by them will enable the
rider to pick his or her way very exactly through the most difficult
pathway. Some may laugh at the idea of "riding to music," but having
once tried it you will find they are generally glad to do it again.
The figures, varied as they are, and presenting almost endless
possibilities, are intricate enough to give a beginner in this branch
of the art, absorbing work, and even afterwards, when perfection has
been attained, there will be found a charm in winding in and out in
the execution of the figures, so long as everyone engaged in the ride
keeps time. For it must not be forgotten that it is in the neatness and
precision with which they are done that the fascination exists.
It was while staying at an hotel in the country that a rainy day drove
me to the nearest Gymnasium to try Cycling for the first time. As it
happened, the instructors were accustomed to put up clubs and teach
their pupils to circle round them so as to ensure balance and absolute
control over their machines. I believe it was by accident that they
first tried riding to music, but once tried it was never abandoned,
as it was found an enormous help in keeping a regular pace, and in
enabling the leader to guide the ride more accurately. Nothing but a
waltz, however, will be found suitable. In the summer, shortly after
this, I first turned figure riding to account, as a means of amusing
my guests, and I found it so popular that eventually I procured the
services of an instructor, and we used to ride every afternoon.
It is surprising how many miles one goes, simply turning and
twisting, and going over the same ground. With tea spread near by,
and comfortably seated in easy chairs, placed so as to command a view
of the riding, even the onlookers, I found, were well amused, and
for those who wish to spend a delightful summer's afternoon in an
exercise, combining sociability and amusement, I know of no better
pastime than this.
There are a few simple rules to be attended to, which it may not be
amiss for me to state, and then by the aid of some diagrams I hope to
give the key to what may look difficult, though, in reality, it is easy
enough.
1. In the first place either a Gymnasium or smooth lawn must be
selected to ride on. In the latter case it will not hurt the grass,
no matter what your gardener may say to the contrary, and if he will
only water it and roll it daily, or even twice a day, you will have a
delightful ground, and in the following year an even better grass crop
than if it had not been so treated.
2. The lawn should be the size that is usually allotted to a full size
Croquet lawn. However, there is no rule as to size, though with a
greater number of riders, you will have to go over a larger space. I,
therefore, recommend a fairly large ground, especially as after rain
the grass is apt to become slippery, and even in those rides which are
done by only four riders you will have to make larger circles to avoid
accidents.
3. Never attempt to do the rides too quickly. Sacrifice speed to
exactitude when necessary, and pay great attention to making all your
turns simultaneously.
4. If a mistake is made in a figure, dismount and begin again. In some
of the rides if one person makes an error, she can _ride to the side_
and dismount, while the others continue, but in most cases this will
put the ride out, and it is better for all to stop. In any case no one
should ever try to cut in and resume her original place or join in a
ride after it has begun.
When possible, it is best to have someone on foot who will give the
word of command, for this is a great help, not only to the leaders but
to all who are riding.
Before mounting or dismounting, have the order given to do so very
distinctly, and make it a never-failing rule _never_ to let the
riders be taken by surprise. I think too, at a garden party, it is
always a good plan to let all who are going to take part in the ride
join in the first figure, as it will make them feel more interest in
the proceedings, and give everyone time to become at ease on their
bicycles. For this purpose I would suggest the "double snake" through
clubs. (See Fig. 1.)
For this you will begin with "single snake," by riding once round the
lawn. Be sure that everybody is in line when the word to mount is
given; it creates confusion and leads to unnecessary collisions when
several mount in a group. Of course the pace must be regulated by the
leader. Starting at the corner below clubs C, this rider will go round
_outside_ the clubs, and having reached the point marked (*) will turn
in and ride straight between clubs A, then going to the right between
those marked B, and afterwards through C. At the same place the turn
was made the first time it should be repeated, and having passed
between A turn to the left through E and D. After repeating some four
or five times begin the "double snake."
Up to this point all have followed one leader, now two will be
required. Continue as before, but when leader No. 1, after passing
through clubs A turns to the right to clubs C, leader No. 2 will turn
to the left between E and D. The third rider will then follow No. 1 and
the fourth No. 2, each keeping her original distance, for when leader
No. 1, having passed clubs C turns through A again, No. 2 will fall in
behind, and the same with all the others, each resuming her original
place. The next time No. 1 will turn to the left, No. 2 to the right,
each leader being followed by half the riders, dividing alternately. To
finish the ride all will follow leader No. 1, and having again been the
round of the lawn should dismount _together_. To add to the effect it
is most important that this should be done in line and simultaneously.
Although exceedingly easy, when done with care and in time with the
music, this is a very pretty ride.
The next ride is commonly called "Centre Circles." This cannot be done
by more than four. Each rider will start from her own corner, and while
riding separately should remember that No. 1 _always_ regulates the
pace, and the others must keep in time with her. The proper distances
should be kept in the ride round the ground, and then No. 1 having come
abreast of club E, No. 2 abreast of club D, No. 3 with club C, and No.
4 with club B, at the word "circle" all will circle to the left, making
a semi-circle, and when abreast of club A circling that _fully_, and
branching off when No. 1 is again beside club C, which she encircles.
Thus: As No. 1 goes round her club (E) the others will circle theirs,
and as all are doing the same figure at the same time the four will
meet in the centre circle (A), and when No. 1 turns off to circle club
C, No. 4, who began by circling club B, will go to club D, and circle
that, and No. 3 who began at Club C will go to club E (for her second
circle), etc. This can be continued as long as desired, the riders No.
1 and No. 3 alternating between clubs C and E, and the other two taking
clubs B and D. Each one, from her own starting point, does exactly the
figure as drawn in Figure 2.
[Illustration: _Fig. III_
_Cross bows._]