his fair share of the work and that the team is absolutely straight,
otherwise it will be quite impossible to get through the traffic or to
turn corners properly. It is best always to shorten reins by pushing
them through from the front, but at first the beginner will find it
very difficult. If the team is not going straight it can generally be
put right by either shortening or lengthening the two middle reins--the
off lead and the near wheel--these being the two easiest to alter,
being together. Of course sometimes only one rein may be wrong, and if
that is the case it should immediately be either pulled out or pushed
through, or three reins may be too long, and then it is very often
found convenient to lengthen the short one, and then put the right
hand on the reins some inches in front of the left and slide the left
hand up to it. Shortening the reins by this method looks far more
workmanlike than by pulling them through the left hand from behind, and
it does not jerk the horses in the mouth.
A team should always be kept well in hand, and a steady though light
pressure maintained on their mouths. If a horse is found to be pulling
or boring, he should be differently bitted at once, as every horse must
be well under control. Before turning a corner be sure that all the
mouths are felt, slacken the pace slightly, and then point the leaders
in the direction and make the wheelers follow them round. A loop has
to be made in the reins as the horses must not turn together, but the
wheelers after the leaders. The point or loop is made by placing the
right hand on the lead rein of the side to which the turn is being
made, some distance in front of the left hand, this depends on the size
of the turn and whether the leaders answer quickly, the rein must then
be brought back to the left hand and placed under the thumb, which
forms a loop and leaves the right hand free either to hit the wheelers
or be put on the reins to steady the horses. When the leaders are round
the corner the loop can be allowed to slide gradually through the hand,
but should never be let go all at once. In bringing back the loop to
the left hand, the leaders must be watched so as to tell exactly how
much rein is required to be taken up, to make them turn as desired.
Free horses that have been going in the lead for some time, especially
if they know the road well, will only require a very small loop. Horses
too, that have been in the wheel long are apt to cut the corners very
short, as the wheeler on the side on which the turn is being made,
recognises the sign of the leaders being about to turn, by feeling the
lead rein shortened at the side of his head.
In those cases what is called the opposition point is made use of.
For instance, turning to the right the near wheel rein is looped over
the thumb, and the off lead is looped _under_ the first finger, to
the left the off-wheel rein is looped under the first finger, and the
near lead under the thumb. This is by far the easiest way of making
the opposition point, as by this means either loop can be let out by
itself if necessary. Be careful when taking up a loop never to let the
left hand go forward to meet the right. The right hand should always
bring the rein back to the left hand. By turning the left hand towards
one, the near reins get shortened, and by turning it outwards, away
from one, the off reins get tightened. A great deal can be done by
giving the hand. Again a slight curve to either side, not a sharp turn,
may be accomplished by placing the right hand on the lead reins and
one wheel rein. For instance if an incline to the right were being
made, the right hand would take hold of the lead reins and the near
wheel. In London, when the wood and asphalt are greasy, it is best to
drive slowly, as a coach is fairly heavy and not easy for the horses
to stop, in spite of the assistance given by the brake. Going through
the traffic the bars should always chatter, which means that the
leaders should not be doing their full share of the work, when turning,
they should be quite out of draught otherwise the pole would most
probably be snapped. Some coaches have a foot brake, and this is very
useful, especially in traffic when a lady is driving and has to pull
up suddenly, and at the same time it saves the horses' legs greatly,
though it does not do to make too frequent use of it. It is best for a
lady to have someone sitting on the "brake seat," to put on the brake
for going down steep hills, but this person should never touch the
brake till he is told to do so, as only the driver can know the exact
moment when it is required.
When coming to the top of a hill, before going down always take a pull
at the horses, shorten all the reins, and make sure of feeling all
their mouths. The leaders should always be out of draught going down
hill, but they should on no account be too far back on the bars as
otherwise knocking up against them might cause one of the leaders to
kick and get a leg over the trace. Generally when shortening all the
reins on the top of a hill, the wheelers come so far back that the
leaders are brought right back on the bars, and if anything, the lead
reins have to be let out. It is best to begin going down hill fairly
slowly, as the pace can always be increased, but it is most difficult
to lessen it. When pulling up, run the right hand some way down the
reins, and bring it back to the left if possible. It is as well to
shorten the reins slightly in the left hand previously. When putting
the right hand on the rein to steady the horses, it is a very good plan
to place it over three reins only, the third and fourth fingers over
the off rein and the first and second fingers over one of the others.
The lead reins should never be buckled, and on road coaches none of
the reins have buckles on them as a rule.
One of the great difficulties to be overcome at the beginning is the
management of the whip. A team whip should not be too heavy, especially
for a lady's use, but at the same time it ought not to be very light.
A whip should always be kept hung up, and it is a very good plan to
keep one handy and have it down from the wall every day for five or ten
minutes' practice even after you have learnt to fold it. The common way
of learning to fold or catch is to chalk a big [Illustration] on the
wall, and beginning at the bottom of this go upwards towards the right,
swinging the lash upwards, and then allowing it to come back to the
stick. The whip should be held with the first finger pointing up the
stick, and the lash under the second finger. An expensive whip is by no
means necessary. Schomberg, in the Brompton Road, has some useful ones
at 14s. 6d. In choosing a whip it is best to get a springy one, with
several knots on the stick near the quill so as to keep the thong on
the stick when folded. It should balance well when held near the collar.
When on the box the whip should be held in the right hand under the
thumb, with the lash twisted a few times round the stick, which is
also held under the thumb. The lash should always be in a big loop,
so that there is not more than six inches to spare beyond the hand.
The wheelers should always be hit before the pad with the double
thong, and the leaders should be hit on the hind legs, by the end of
the lash of course. When about to hit the leaders unfold the whip and
bring the stick back to the side of the coach, and then by a movement
of the wrist send the lash in the required direction under the bars.
Afterwards bring the thong back to the stick and fold it up again. When
the thong is on the stick, put the left thumb through the loop that is
on the stick, pull off the lash and give it one or two turns to the
left. In hitting wheelers one must remember that they cannot do their
fair share of work if the leaders have too much head room, and it is
quite useless hitting them without first shortening the leaders' reins.
Above all, when driving a team, keep them well in hand and feel their
mouths.
Tandem driving in many respects closely resembles team driving. The
reins are held in the same way, and the whip is practically the same
though generally rather lighter and the lash a trifle shorter, but
this will depend of course on the size of the horses you are driving.
Many people consider a tandem, even apart from the difference in
the weight of the reins, more difficult to drive than a coach, but
personally I have always considered tandem driving the easier of the
two; it is easier to pull up in the traffic and you can turn in a
fairly small space, though to make the horses go well they require
neat, quick, handling, and exceptionally light hands. Many horses will
make good tandem leaders that will not go in any other form of harness;
of course, there are many too which make safe leaders, but at the same
time could not be called "good." A perfect leader should be quick and
free, and always be taking a slight hold of the bit, he should go
wherever he is driven and not shy off omnibuses, etc. A slug in the
lead is most difficult to drive, and quite takes away from the pleasure
of a tandem.
There are two kinds of harness, with and without bars. With bars is
supposed to be the safer of the two, but, if proper care is taken,
there is practically no danger without bars, as the leader should never
be allowed to get far enough back to risk his getting a leg over the
trace. To turn, a loop can be taken up just the same as in turning a
team, but it is necessarily much smaller, and great care must be taken
not to allow the leader to come completely round. Most corners, if not
sharp ones, can be turned by placing the right hand over the lead reins
and one wheel rein, but a great deal depends on the give and take of
the left hand. This is a most important thing, as a tandem turns very
easily, a turn of the wrist being usually sufficient to move the horses
across the road. When the right hand is kept on the reins, it should
be in the same position as on team reins. When getting into the cart
the reins should also be taken the same way as team reins, first in
the left hand and then passed to the right, and finally, when seated,
transferred back to the left hand. Before taking the reins to get into
the cart, the whip should always be neatly folded and placed in the
socket ready for immediate use. Though the wheeler starts the cart, the
leader should have plenty of head room, or otherwise he will be liable
to jib. A tandem is most useful for going fairly long distances at a
good pace, as the weight is not great and the leader can do his full
share of the work going up hill. Except when going up hill a leader
should only do a very small share of the work. If proper care is
taken, the danger of a tandem is by no means so great as is generally
supposed, and a good tandem is a most enjoyable turn-out to drive.
[Illustration: _Downer._ _Watford._
_MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING._]
I hope the foregoing hints may be of some use to those interested in
driving, who wish to become steady and clever whips. The most necessary
things to ensure success are plenty of practice in driving different
horses, and great care and attention to all the minor details. There is
nothing more enjoyable than road coach-driving, in my opinion, except a
day with foxhounds. But women should not attempt coaching unless they
are fairly strong, and have had plenty of experience.
Before I end I cannot help mentioning one whip whose driving I have
always particularly admired, and that is Ernest K. Fownes, of Rocket
fame. I have often had the pleasure of seeing him drive, and a useful
lesson it has been each time. It is most interesting to watch how he
goes through the thickest traffic, never stopping it, and never seeming
himself to stop, his horses going as one.
Ada J. C. Massey-Mainwaring.
[Illustration: _MRS. A. C. HILLS._]
CYCLING.
The subject of cycling is distinctly a many-sided one. While the same
general remarks which apply to the subject of exercise for women, apply
also to the use of the cycle, we should remember that though every
woman is benefitted by exercise of some kind, there are a few women
who are not fitted to ride the cycle at all. This may seem a strong
assertion from one who is devoted to cycling, and who so thoroughly
believes in its health-giving properties. But though to the practised
rider cycling is much easier work than walking, to the novice, or
to the unskilled rider, and even to the skilled rider who is out of
form, it becomes hard work. Especially in learning, an amount of
muscular effort is required which some women are unfitted to undertake.
Therefore, we must assume that the would-be cyclist is a person of
average health, strength, and activity, and to such an one, the cycle
should be a boon indeed. It is impossible to lay down rules as to who
is fit or unfit to take up the pastime, for even doctors are sometimes
much at fault on this point. My own view is that any girl, or older
woman either, who is used to a fair amount of exercise, should be able
to cycle and to cycle well, _in time_. But those with weak hearts or
similar complaints should not attempt to cycle, any more than they
should run upstairs quickly or climb steep hills.
Before leaving the health view of cycling, I wish to impress most
strongly on all who take up cycling the necessity of "taking it easily"
at first. Apart from the fact that actually the hardest work is in the
learning, it must be remembered that even after the learner can ride
without assistance, the body has to become accustomed to an entirely
new form of exercise. If you took a good walker and stopped her from
all walking exercise for a few months, how tired she would get when
she began again. This fatigue would continue until her muscles had got
into good order again, and yet walking comes naturally to everyone.
Cycling does not come naturally, except in very rare instances, so how
much more necessary is it to begin carefully, and let the body become
gradually accustomed to it. The girl who rides ten or fifteen miles
after being on a cycle only once or twice, and who--from not having
mastered the art of riding--uses two or three times more exertion over
it than she need, would not dream, perhaps, of walking five miles on
end at a good pace. Yet she then pronounces the cycle "hard work," and
says she finds no pleasure in it. No wonder!
Really to appreciate cycling many conditions are necessary, and that
is why I called it a many-sided subject at the outset. First of all
it is an active exercise, so those who have not been in the habit of
taking enough outdoor exercise in other forms, must not expect to cycle
with comfort or enjoyment until they have gradually got their general
health, into a state which is known as "fit." Then when the cyclist
is fitted in herself to enjoy riding, there are other things to be
considered, and these I put as follows:
(_a_) To ride correctly; (_b_) to have a good cycle, suited to the
particular requirements of the rider, and properly adjusted; and (_c_)
to look well.
First then as to Riding, and here we are met by the reflection, how few
women ride really well. It makes me sad to see how badly three-fourths
of the riders one meets are getting along, and when I reflect how much
more they would enjoy themselves, and _how much better they would
look_ if taken in hand for a time by a good tutor, I feel angry at the
so-called "Instructors" one usually has to put up with at the average
riding school.
When you are learning, you should if possible select a grass lawn,
or failing this a quiet piece of broad road, and practice on this
_little and often_. Short rides, even of a few yards, are valuable,
if done frequently. The pupil should not get over-tired, or struggle
on after her efforts become worrying. She should take a rest and have
another turn a few hours later, and will then find the result very
different. To the novice my advice is, do not trouble about mounting
and dismounting without assistance, as this will come later as a matter
of course.
The object must be to sit quite still in the saddle, and not to rely on
the handles. Good riders never move their bodies at all, but ride with
their hands just resting lightly on the handles, _not_ pulling at them.
In time it will be found the machine can be steered by just slightly
inclining the shoulders in the direction in which it is wished to turn.
Above all things when you are learning do not fix your eyes on the
front wheel, but look ahead. This is essential.
When the machine goes naturally in a straight line, then the rider
will know that she is not only sitting well, but has begun to acquire
the art of pedalling. There is a very great deal in pedalling evenly,
as this not only lessens the labour but takes away all difficulty of
steering. When a rider sits well and pedals well, there is practically
no steering to be done, for the machine will go automatically in the
direction desired by the rider, or so at least it will appear. The
saddle should be so adjusted that when the pedal is at its lowest
point, the foot of the rider should be just able to drop on to it
naturally, without quite straightening the knee. A good way to test
this, is to stretch the toe out as far as it will go (knee quite
straight) and if the foot will just go underneath the pedal, no more,
the length of reach is correct.
Force should never be exerted in driving the pedals, they must be
"coaxed" round, for this in a word is the art of "ankling." When the
pedal is at the top of the stroke, the heel should be downward as in
Fig. 1. As the pedal travels forward and down, the foot should follow
it, keeping the ankle as still as possible, till at the bottom of
the stroke, the toe is pointing downwards, and the heel is highest.
The effect of this will be first of all to give power in riding as
shown by Fig. 2. If the foot is pressed downward only, it will be in
operation for a very small part of the stroke, as the pedal moves in a
circle, but by ankling, it will easily be seen (Fig. 3) that power is
maintained for a much longer time.
[Illustration: _Fig. 1._]
[Illustration: _Fig. 2._]
From a woman's point of view too the effect of ankling is still more
important, as beside the gain in speed, it promotes gracefulness.
The rise and fall of the knee in riding, is reduced by one half when
the ankles are used properly, and the result to the onlooker is
consequently more pleasing. For the skirt to hang gracefully and the
rider to look well, there should be as little movement of the knees
as possible. Therefore, if you sit sufficiently high and use your
ankles properly, you will not only be using your powers to the very
best advantage, and lessening fatigue, but will at the same time be
attaining gracefulness, and in every way improving your appearance in
the saddle.
[Illustration: _Fig. 3._]
Another important point is to keep the legs _straight up and down_
when riding. The knees should not be allowed to go either inwards or
outwards on any account, and there should be no "wobbling" in the leg
action. The toe and heel should be in a line, at right angles across
the pedal, that is, exactly parallel with the crank all the time. Take
care that the heel does not twist at all (Fig. 4) on the stroke.
[Illustration: _Fig. 4._]
Learn to mount from either side of the machine, and to do so lean the
machine a little toward you with the outside pedal up, and rather
forward, then place your foot on the pedal furthest from you, and as
you raise yourself into the saddle, the weight of your body will bear
on that pedal, thus sending the opposite one up to meet the other foot.
The dress should be caught in the hand as you put your foot across
the machine on to the pedal, and if any further arrangement should be
necessary you will, when you are at home in the saddle, find it easy to
do this as you go along. A slight pull to the side will be all that is
required. When once in the saddle, do not be anxious to find the other
pedal, simply keep the machine straight, as it will run a surprising
distance of its own accord after the start given to it by the act of
mounting, unless, indeed, you should be mounting up hill, which is
never desirable for a beginner to attempt. If the foot which was on
the ground is allowed to hang downwards as soon as the rider is seated
in the saddle, it will find the pedal quite naturally, in fact the
pedal will come round to the foot. In dismounting as in mounting, the
rider should learn to do it with equal ease and confidence from either
side. When the pedal is coming upward, throw the weight upon it--this
stops the momentum of the machine--at the same time rising out of the
saddle, then pass the other foot over the cycle and step down in front
of the pedal, on which the weight of the body is resting. A firm grasp
should be kept on both handles, and the machine inclined towards the
rider, on the side she dismounts.
_The rule of the road_ is usually ignored by cycling women, but nothing
in connection with the pastime is really more important. To observe
it always whether necessary or not, is to reduce the possibility of
accident to a minimum. It then becomes a habit, and in an emergency
the instinct is to do the right thing immediately, the value of which
can scarcely be over-estimated. Always ride then to the left side of
the road, whether there are vehicles about or not. Remember, it is the
unexpected that always happens, and should a cart or cycle suddenly
appear from a bye road, an accident will almost surely happen if you
are on the side that should be free for them. If in spite of your
caution an accident happens, you will at least have the chance of being
compensated if you can prove that you were on your proper side at the
time; you certainly would not, if you were on the wrong side. There
are only two occasions on which this rule is deviated from, viz.: when
passing a vehicle which is going in the same direction or when passing
a led horse going in either direction. When overtaking a vehicle,
never pass between it and the pavement or side-walk, for the tendency
is for the driver to pull in toward the left when he hears anything
behind him. With a led horse the custom is to keep the man in charge
always _between_ oneself and the led horse, no matter in which part of
the road the latter may be. The reason is obvious, led horses being
sometimes playful with their heels.
The most fruitful cause of accidents is the wrong taking of corners.
The right way to do it, however, is very simple. Thus if proceeding
along a road, and desiring to turn off to the left, make the curve (if
possible) in the road you are in, and thus enter the other road on the
left, _i.e._, safe side. Remember that you cannot see what is in the
other road, and the act of turning will make the machine swing out more
or less from the proper side (Fig. 5).
[Illustration: _Fig. 5._]
The principle is reversed when taking a turn to the right. Never cut
across the nearest corner in doing this. Go nearly across the side road
so as to turn into it on your proper side thus (Fig. 6).
[Illustration: _Fig. 6._]
If these simple matters are borne in mind, a cyclist may go many years
without even the risk of an accident. Another thing to remember, is
never on any account to lose control of your machine when descending
a hill you do not know, if the bottom of it cannot be seen. Though
to "fly" a hill is the height of enjoyment, safety demands that the
end of the spin should be visible, or that you should know your ground
thoroughly.