_faute de mieux_ it is true, but none the less with very considerable
enjoyment, I was fishing the little stream for all three kinds in turn.
On the gravelly bottom of a certain portion of the water, I found a red
Palmer very attractive to the roach which were there in considerable
numbers. Some of them were of fair size, the largest I took turning
the scales at 1-lb., but I am bound to confess that I found these fish
such very shy biters that I generally preferred to try either for dace
or chub. One roach, however, gave rather a novel experience by hanging
itself in a tree, and causing the greatest excitement among our party,
the members of which quickly came from their chosen spots to see and
admire. I was fishing from the shelter of a bush on the top of a high
steep bank, and with some trees close at the rear and a decidedly fresh
breeze blowing, it was not an easy matter to get the line safely out
at all. The water, however, was but little disturbed by the wind, from
which just there it was protected by the high ground, and the fish were
clearly visible in the water below. As there was nothing for it in such
a position but to swing the fish out if I caught one, I did not for
that once wish to make a big capture. Scarcely had the tail fly--this
was a red Palmer--touched the water than one of the usual shy bites was
made, and fortunately my strike secured the prize so far. But he seemed
heavy and was, besides, the gamest of his kind I have ever played.
Quietly we could not manage things, and it was very soon clear that if
I did not then secure him, I need not struggle with the difficulties
of casting again in that part of the stream, for every other finny
inhabitant would have taken the alarm. All my faculties were therefore
intent on the capture. When I saw him at last tired of struggling and
almost beneath me, I tried to swing him up, wondering, as I did so,
if it were possible my light tackle could stand the strain. A flash
of silver through the air, then a puff of wind, and a red-finned,
black-backed roach of about 8-oz. in weight, was dangling over the
topmost bough of a tree which grew up from the lower part of the bank
a little to my left. The poor fish struggled and the line swayed
ominously among the branches, till at last a nimble climber released
them both, and to my delight restored them to me.
For chub I found a larger fly effective, and a Coachman and a Red
Palmer, both tied large, were what I generally used. In my experience,
chub is the most determined biter of any of those I am now discussing,
and he is very game up to a certain point, his dashes and struggles as
he tries to free himself from the hook, being as fierce as those of
many a good trout. The battle, however, will be over much sooner than
with one of the latter species, and when you see the inert form in the
water, you will realise with sorrow that after all he does not belong
to the kind known as "game fish." In fishing for chub you must be as
careful about showing yourself as you would be in trying for a trout,
for he is very quick in spotting anything unusual, and once he has
done this, you may offer him the most tempting flies unavailingly. By
the time you have landed a 2-lb. chub, you will, in my opinion, have
exercised to the full as much, if not more skill, than you would have
done in the capture of a trout, and though the sport of playing him
will be sooner over, it will have been good indeed while it lasted.
[Illustration: _Method of fastening Reel-line to Cast._]
The chub I found to rise earlier in the day in this little Sussex
stream than either dace or roach, the two last on the warm August
evenings often rising freely as long as we could see to cast for them.
The great difference between fishing with the fly for game and coarse
fish lies in this, that while with the latter you require even more
lightness of hand and skill in casting than on any ordinary trout
stream, the intense excitement of the moments when you play a good
trout or salmon will not be experienced to the same extent. But that
sport and good sport may be enjoyed with any of the three varieties I
have named, I have proved to my own satisfaction, and I hope that what
I have said may induce others to try for themselves.
At the same time that nothing can equal the joy of playing and landing
your first trout, I would be the last to deny, for the day on which
the first fell to my rod is still marked as a red letter day in my
life. This also was in Sussex, in a well-stocked merry little stream
which babbled and chattered over its white stones, giving the last
touch of beauty to the peaceful valley through which it flowed. After
the preliminary walk along the banks of that part of the water I was
to fish, so as to get the knowledge of the position of the pools and
eddies and overhanging banks without which one's labour is likely to
be thrown away, I sallied forth, rod in hand, to the neighbourhood of
a bridge from which I had noted several trout lying with their heads
up stream. A few hundred yards from this, where the banks it is true
did not seem to offer much facility for casting, there was an eddy at
one side of the stream and a mass of rushes on the other, all under
the shadow of trees which rose between them and the bridge. When it is
remembered that I was trying for my first trout--the experience now
lies back in the dim distance of the past--it will not perhaps cause
surprise if I say that my whole being thrilled with the excitement of
the moment. My cast had a red Palmer for the tail fly, and black Alder
as dropper, for at dinner the night before I had been advised to try
these by a local fisherman. I should probably make a mess of it, and
catch my line in one or other of the traps that literally bristled
on all sides of me, was the thought that was uppermost, as after
scrambling down cautiously and keeping well out of view, I craned my
neck to see how I could possibly get my cast to alight on the spot I
had chosen. As I had my hand up for the venture a swift rise just where
my eyes were fixed on the water, told me of the presence of a trout.
My line flew out, and the tail-fly falling within the widening circle
was instantly seized, and a sharp turn of the wrist gave me a trout
with a bewildering suddenness. Up went the point of the rod, and the
good cane bent to the weight beneath. A maddened dash across stream to
the reeds, was the first attempt of the prey, then a trial to get to
the shelter of a rock conveniently near, but slowly and surely he gave
in to the steady pull brought to bear on him, and soon I looked with
unspeakable delight on a 1/2-lb. trout, in the prime of condition, safe
within the folds of the landing net. That no fish ever comes up to the
one you first capture, has since this moment been an article of faith
with me. Others larger, gamer, better in every sense may, and will if
you have ordinary skill and perseverance, fall to your rod, but nothing
will give you the same thrill of rapture you felt when you saw your
"first trout" on the bank at your feet.
[Illustration: _A good Gut Knot._]
To make a good trout fisher there are of course many things to learn,
and one of the greatest charms of the sport lies in this, that you
never come to the end of what there is to know of it. But pre-eminently
is it true that an ounce of practice is worth a ton of precepts. You
must to a very great extent buy your own experience, and though you
will always do well to profit by other people's advice, you must
yourself build up the theories which will show you how, when, and
where to cast so that fish may rise to your fly, when they are proof
against the blandishments of the less skillfully-thrown lure. That you
should always study the lie of the water over which you mean to fish
is a truism, and yet it is a fundamental rule to the neglect of which
many both men and women owe the fact, that they never rise above a
very mediocre degree of skill. Unless you know something of the habits
of the fish and the spots in which he is likely to be found, how can
you hope to succeed in making him acquainted with your fly? To prevent
him catching a glimpse of you, and for this end to be dressed so as
scarcely to be distinguished from the ground upon which you will be
standing, to make no noise or disturbance, to throw with the utmost
delicacy of hand, to strike instantaneously or the reverse according to
the particular class of fish you are angling for, to cast up stream or
partly up and _across_, and never to allow the gut to make a ripple as
you draw your cast through the water, all these constitute the ABC of
an angler's stock of learning.
I believe that most people carry about with them a quite unnecessary
stock of flies, and that as much success will fall to you if you only
provide yourself with different kinds of Palmers, Black and Red Gnats,
the Black Alder, Red Spinner, March Brown, Blue Upright, Yellow Dun,
Stone Fly, Wickham's Fancy, Greenwell's Glory, and on some streams the
Green Drake, having these in several shades and tied on different sized
hooks, never forgetting to supplement them by any others recommended by
local fishermen, whose knowledge remember has probably been bought by
careful study and long and varied experience.
For coarse fish I have found the Palmers, Black Gnat, Artificial Grub,
and Bumble Bee the most successful. The Chub always liking their fly
tied large, the Dace and Roach preferring theirs small.
A rod well-chosen and well-balanced is of course of the first necessity
to your success. To speak again from my own experience, I found an
inexpensive light Greenheart made by Hancock, a delightful rod in every
respect and with this my first ventures both with trout and coarse fish
were made. It only measured 10-ft. 6-in., but was beautifully balanced,
and you could make very fairly long casts with it. As a beginner you
should always get some experienced friend to choose your rod for you,
though like everything else of the kind, you will naturally prefer to
make the choice yourself as soon as you know how to test the balance on
which all else depends.
In the matter of outfit, you will need a creel which should contain
an upper tray for luncheon, a landing net, and one or two casts ready
made for use. The last may be fastened round your hat, and of course if
you have any idea of being independent and going out by yourself, your
creel and net should be chosen with a view to lightness, or they will
naturally add materially to the fatigue of a day on the river bank.
Lastly, I would say, that if you should have the opportunity of going
out with a good fisherman on a river or lake, there to learn the
elements of fly-fishing, by all means avail yourself of it. In no
other way can you master the rudimentary practice so easily as from
a boat, for there will be no bushes or banks, or the hundred and one
difficulties you may have to consider on land, and you will therefore
be able to concentrate your efforts on getting your line out in a
fairly workmanlike manner.
That you should not be easily discouraged it is scarcely necessary to
add, for who that has landed her first trout has not straightway felt
the fever of the rod take possession of her?
Frances E. Slaughter.
[Illustration: _Lafayette._ _Dublin._
_MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING._]
DRIVING.
Of the many forms of sport indulged in by women there is in my opinion
none more fascinating than driving. Single, pair, and tandem-driving
are within the capabilities of most women, though to control a
team thoroughly, especially with a full coach behind it, requires
exceptional skill, nerve and strength. The first thing to learn when
beginning driving lessons is the proper position and use of each piece
of harness, the effect of shifting the reins on the bit, the correct
position of the bit in the horse's mouth, and in pair or team driving
how the horses should be coupled to go well together. There are no two
horses quite alike in character, and each one to go well in harness
requires attention to his individual habits and characteristics. Very
few people realise how much unnecessary pain is caused to horses by
mere thoughtlessness. How many people there are who to be "smart" have
very tight bearing reins, never dreaming of the agony the poor animals
are suffering when left waiting as they often are at the front door,
with their mouths aching and their heads strained up. Yet I do not
by any means wish to condemn the use of the bearing rein altogether,
especially in a crowded city, as it would be impossible to drive many
horses without one. Frequently, too, the bit is put very much too high
in the horses' mouths, and then people wonder why the poor animals are
restless and fidgety while their mouths are being pinched and cut.
[Illustration: _Reins for Single Harness._]
There are so many things to be mentioned in speaking of driving that
it is difficult to know where to begin, what to leave out, and what to
mention. I cannot do better than begin with the start from the front
door. There are exceedingly few women who have any idea how to start
properly. I remember once noticing a very good whip start. She was
ready when the cart came to the door, for she well knew that nothing
is worse for an animal than to be kept waiting. She went and patted
the pony, giving a glance at the harness to see that it was all in its
proper place. Finding the throat lash too tight she let it out a hole,
then unfastening the reins from the off-side terret, she took them in
her right hand with the second and third fingers between the two reins,
got in and sat down immediately. Putting the rug over her knees, she
then transferred the reins to her left hand, the near rein over the
first finger and the off rein between the second and third fingers, and
took the whip in her right hand. When she was quite ready to start,
she dropped her left hand and the pony moved off. My first impression
naturally was, "I am sure that girl can drive," and I was quite right.
In driving there are so very many things to be remembered and others to
be avoided, that I think a few good rules will be the easiest way of
mentioning them:
1. Both the reins should be held in the left hand, on no account should
either rein be taken out of that hand.
2. The hand should be kept just above the level of the waist, fairly
close to the body, the wrist being well bent so as to give plenty of
spring to the horse's mouth, the nails and thumb turned towards the
body and the elbow close to the hip.
3. The reins should be kept close to the knuckles, so as to avoid the
possibility of their slipping out of the hand.
4. The right hand should not be kept altogether on the reins, but when
on them it should be slightly in front of the left, and the hands
should never be far apart.
5. To shorten either or both the reins push them through the left hand
from the front, with the right.
6. To lengthen, pull them through the left hand from the front with the
right hand, never let a rein slip.
7. Always hold the whip in the right hand when driving.
8. The whip should be held where it balances best, usually just below
the collar, and the thong should be kept fairly high so as to avoid the
possibility of the lash tickling the horse.
9. Never jerk a horse when starting, and never flap the reins on his
back.
10. If a horse does not start when you drop the hand slightly, draw
the whip gently over his withers.
11. When whipping a horse, with the exception of leaders, always hit
him in front of the pad.
12. A kicker can often be stopped by a sharp hit on the ears.
13. Always keep a steady, firm, though not heavy hold of a horse's
mouth, "feel" his mouth all the time he is going.
14. When driving through a crowded thoroughfare, remember there
is traffic behind as well as in front that must not be stopped
unnecessarily.
15. Pass all the near-side traffic on its off-side.
16. When turning a corner or pulling up, always indicate your
intention, in the former case by swinging the whip in the direction in
which the turn is being made, or in the latter by swinging the lash
straight above the head.
17. Always go fairly slowly round corners, and keep to the near side.
18. Keep a horse well in hand on greasy wood or asphalt, or when going
down hill, and never hurry going up a steep hill.
19. Always look straight ahead, and on no account at the traffic
passing or being passed.
20. Never hit a horse when the right hand is on the reins, as otherwise
in using the whip the hand necessarily goes forward and relaxes the
hold on the rein or reins.
Of course it is quite impossible to lay down rules for everything,
and a great deal in driving can only be learnt by long and varied
experience. One often hears people talking of self-made whips, but that
term generally means people who think they can drive and cannot. For
anyone beginning to drive it is essential to start by taking lessons
from a really first-class whip. Most of the road coach-drivers give
lessons. It is quite as necessary to have good lessons to drive one
horse as it is to drive four, as the foundation of pair, team, and
tandem driving is to be able to drive one horse perfectly.
A made pair is quite as easy to drive as a single horse, but when it is
a case of driving two horses, which have not been previously in harness
together, it is quite a different matter. Nothing looks nicer than to
see a good pair of cobs in a smart phaeton, going well, driven by a
lady who knows what driving means. Women who drive well, as a rule,
have light hands, though many of them do not keep a sufficiently steady
hold on a horse's mouth. They so often forget that it is a matter of
the greatest importance to feel their horse's mouth the whole time they
are going. It is not an easy matter to get any two horses of about the
same size to go well together, unless the greatest attention is given
to all the lesser details. It is absolutely necessary that the harness
should fit well and be properly adjusted. When starting two new horses
it is as well to do so with the couplings level and bitted cheek all
round. After they have gone a short distance it can easily be seen
whether they are going comfortably and well together and each doing his
fair share of work. If they are not, the reason can soon be discovered,
and the fault rectified. Very often one horse goes a good deal more
freely, and takes a stronger hold of the bit, and in that case it will
be necessary to see that the other horse has sufficient room in the
couplings, and at the same time to put the free horse middle bar if he
is inclined to pull. Frequently though, the mistake is made of shifting
the reins on the bit when only the couplings require altering. Very few
horses carry their heads quite alike, and consequently will require
more or less room in the couplings as the case may he. Many horses too
do not carry their heads straight, and need special attention. For
instance: it the near side horse carries his head over to the left,
the off-side rein will have to be shortened, which means the buckle
will have to be taken on the other horse's off-rein. It requires the
greatest care and nicety to couple horses correctly, for it makes all
the difference as to the way in which they will go. When putting two
horses together it is as well if possible to get them the same size,
colour and build. Size is the most important, and many people consider
colour the next to be considered, but personally I think colour makes
very little difference as long as the horses are the same stamp and
go comfortably together. It is most disagreeable to drive two horses
together, one having a long swinging stride, and the other taking short
"shuffling" steps. It is most trying for the horses too, as the former
is sure to do more work than the latter, which to keep up will be
continually breaking into a canter.
[Illustration: _THE HARNESS._
1. _Brow Band._
2. _Blinkers._
3. _Nose Band._
4. _Liverpool Bit._
5. _Curb Chain._
6. _Cheek Strap._
7. _Throat Lash._
8. _Collar._
9. _Hames._]
When putting in a young horse for the first time, it is best to put him
in a brake with a steady old horse which knows his work. The off-side
is best for the youngster just at first, but he should be perpetually
changed sides, as otherwise he will be apt to develop numerous bad
habits, besides getting a crooked mouth. When starting get somebody
to hold his head till ready to go, and then the man should run beside
him for a few minutes, without holding him. Be sure to drop the hand
to the horses well as they move off, and do not on any account allow
the young horse to be the first to get into his collar, as if you do
he will feel the whole weight of the brake and the other horse, and
be unable to move, and will in all probability jib. Once a horse has
learnt that he can jib, it is a most difficult habit to break him of.
Therefore, avoid letting a young horse find out that he can do so. Very
often a young horse will go better through the traffic in London than
he will round the Park when it is empty, as in the traffic there are so
many things to occupy his attention that he will forget to resent he is
made to work. If anything frightens him and he refuses to pass it, get
him led by and do not hit him, as otherwise he will always associate
that particular thing with being hit, and think it is the object of his
fright which caused him to be hit, and afterwards either jib when he
sees it again, or rush by it. Before a young horse is driven he should
be thoroughly accustomed to having the harness on and the bit in his
mouth. It is best to have the harness put on with very long reins, so
that a man can walk behind him and make him walk as it he were being
driven. His first lessons should be short so as not to worry or tire
him.
Once a woman can drive _any_ two horses together and make them go well,
she will probably be capable of learning to drive a tandem or team.
It is very hard to say which is the better of the two to begin with.
Personally I think if both are going to be taken up, it is as well
to start with a team, but it really makes very little difference. Of
course a team requires a great deal more strength, but very often to
drive _any_ two horses together makes a large demand on your strength.
One of the best ways of learning is to watch a good driver, both going
through the traffic and driving in the country, and to pay great
attention to his hands as well as the horses, so as to notice how the
turns, etc., are done. An easy means of doing this is to take the box
seat of a road coach when a professional is driving, and afterwards to
take lessons from a road coach driver. A great deal can be learnt at
first, simply by watching a person's hands, noting how a loop is made,
how when the leaders are turning the wheelers are kept "off" a corner,
and how the team is straightened.
[Illustration: _How to take up Reins._]
The most difficult thing for a beginner to learn is how to start the
horses properly, and how to pull up well. It is absolutely necessary
always to see that the horses and harness are in their proper places,
and the horses correctly bitted, as anything being out of place may
easily cause a serious accident. Avoid keeping the horses waiting once
they are ready to start. Go to the off-side wheeler and take the reins
first in the left hand, the first finger between the lead reins and the
middle finger between the wheel reins, take them gently so as not to
touch the horses' mouths, then pull out a good piece of the off reins,
so that the buckles and splicings may be about level when you are
seated. Transfer the reins to the right hand, the middle finger between
the lead and the third finger between the wheel reins, get on the box,
and sit down immediately, so as to avoid being jerked off should the
horses start suddenly. Then transfer the reins back to the left hand.
All reins do not have the splicing quite in the same place, but as a
rule the buckles and splicing will be about level. Gently feel the
wheelers' mouths and then the leaders', the latter should be standing
away from the bars. The near wheel rein may be a trifle shorter than
the off, as this is the most difficult one to take up in a hurry. Be
sure that the leaders have plenty of head room when starting, otherwise
they will be likely to jib. Though the wheelers should start the coach,
if any one of the horses is inclined to jib he should not be allowed
to feel the weight of the coach when moving off. Once started the lead
reins can easily be shortened a trifle. Take the whip in the right
hand, and drop the left hand well to the horses just as they start,
and then bring it back to its proper place. Be careful when dropping
the left hand not to bend forward and lean over the reins; nothing
looks worse. The proper position of the left hand is about level with
the waist, the elbow close to the side, the wrist well bent, and the
fingers and thumb turned towards the body, in fact practically the same
as for driving a single horse or pair, but as the driver is higher
over the horses and the weight of the reins is greater the hand will
probably be a trifle lower.
[Illustration: _Position of Hands and Reins._]