This morning is clear and beautiful, with the thermometer at 64° degrees
Fahrenheit, having risen two degrees since last night. Nature seems to
be all in smiles to welcome the return of a new year. Oh, that my heart
could feel in unison with this bright and sunny morning!
But while all around is joyous, all within is sadness. The old year of
1865 has come to a close, and the events which have transpired shroud
the retrospect with gloom and sadness. Horrible in their reality, and
almost maddening to the thought, I would gladly if it were in my power
cease to think of what is past. Could the fruitless martyrdom of my
three noble brothers be forgotten, the sad fate of many who are left
behind cannot be torn from my consciousness and consigned to oblivion.
The fact that my own wife and children have been deprived of a house and
home by the ruthless hand of the hostile incendiary, stares me
constantly in the face as a terrible reality. I cannot but feel very
anxious for the present condition and the future well-being of those
near and dear to me.
Four months entire have now elapsed since any intelligence has reached
me from them or other friends, and the disturbed state of society around
them causes me much concern.
My heart feels a weight and depression not in keeping with the advent of
a new year; but, flying from the dark abyss of misery which reflection
brings to view, let me occupy my thoughts with the persons and things
around me.
The sound of music awoke us at early dawn, and several pieces were
performed to welcome the coming of another year. Upon going out, we
found quite a transformation in the plaza, by the planting of forty-two
palm trees (species of palmetto) during the night, making an avenue from
the front of the church. They are not expected to grow, but are merely
placed here as a part of the festivities of the occasion, to be
continued to-day.
The companions of my voyage thus far have now left me to return to
Itapetininga, from which point they will proceed to Botocatu. Two mules
were brought here by Mr. Bennaton, though it was known that no further
provision was to be made for me. This purchase, at forty-seven and a
half ($47.50) dollars for a saddle-mule, and thirty-five ($35) dollars
for a pack-mule, is considerably below the prices at the capital, but
above the average valuation in this region.
The outfit for three men and three attendants now consists of eighteen
animals.
I remain here for the camarada, Senor Pedro Crano D’Oliveiro, to come
with his mules, and proceed with me through the woods to Iporanga. All
these men, though performing menial service, expect a certain deference
to be shown them; and it is customary to give them the title of respect
implied by Senhor on all occasions. In fact, no freeman, white or black,
is ever addressed here without this, but it is usual to prefix it to the
first part of the name, even with persons of distinction, instead of
using the surname or family name as is done with us, in prefixing the
word Mister through respect.
My old friend, the Catholic priest, who is vicar of this district, has
given me a letter to a friend in Xiririca, and has likewise procured
another from a gentleman here to a party in Iporanga, so that I will get
assistance in both places, should I fail to meet Senor Street.
The priest belongs to the order of Friars, and signs himself accordingly
Frei, in the prefix to his name. He has gone out to attend to his duties
at the church, leaving us at his house without seeming to expect that
any of us took any interest in attending the services. The long flowing
gown, with a monk’s hood hanging on the shoulders, is worn habitually,
as indeed the clerical attire is the common dress of priests everywhere
in this country; but when he goes to the church, the ceremonial
vestments are taken by his page to be used in the services.
I went to the church to-day for the purpose of witnessing the
proceedings of the festa by the vicar; and with the assistance of a
number of persons who were attired for the occasion, he went through
various incomprehensible manœuvres, that served to attract and interest
the large concourse of people. At the close of these performances,
rockets and other sonorous fire-works were exploded most profusely.
In the afternoon there was a grand procession of these demonstrative
people, in honor of our Lady of Conception, (Nossa Senhora de
Conceicão.)
The figure of a female seated on a platform, that rested on a sort of
hand-barrow, was carried upon the shoulders of four men, and another
figure, representing some of the saints, supported in like manner,
accompanied it, while a large rich awning was hoisted upon the ends of
six poles in the hands of as many men, under which the old vicar and a
brother priest moved forward with certain symbols, among which was a
silver cross encircled by a halo of brightness. This other priest is
also a friar, and gives his name in full as Frei José de Loro, Director
de Tijuco Preto, Ministerio Apostolico Capuchinho. He is from Italy, as
is also the old vicar, the former being in this country only eight
months, while the latter has been here twenty years, and says he has
almost forgotten his native tongue.
Formed into line, with music in full blast, they marched in much
apparent solemnity with their heads bowed, throughout the principal
streets of the town, accompanied by most of the men, women and children
that were present. On the return of the procession, the explosion of
fire-works was deafening, and had an appearance in mid-heaven like the
bursting of bombshells, when a hot engagement of artillery is
progressing.
An address was subsequently made in the church by the vicar, but was not
adapted to my limited comprehension of the language.
The proportion of men present was small, and for the most part scrawny
specimens, with very shabby dress, having in many instances a sort of
cloak (ponché) which covers all other deficiencies of dress. The absence
of men having better physique is attributable to their apprehension of
being recruited for the army, which induces them to forego the
indulgence of public festivities.
The number of women in attendance was very large, and with few
exceptions of mixed blood, either of the Indian or negro. Some of them
were comely in form and neatly dressed, but far the greater number were
downright ugly. Here, more even than at other places, the old and the
young have the glands of the neck enlarged, constituting goitre, or, as
called here, “papo.” This affection is ascribed to various causes;
humidity of the atmosphere, bad diet, or deficiency of nutritious food,
sleeping in exposed situations, combined with the water of the serras,
are the usual concomitants.
In the vicinity of the Alps, it is known to prevail extensively, and is
attributed by some writers to the use of snow-water. But here we have no
snow-water, while there exists a geological formation in these serras
which corresponds to that mountainous region; and it is highly probable
that there exists some peculiar mineralogical principle in the water
coming from these elevations which produces this result.
The better class of people are rarely seen with it, yet even those with
all the comforts of life are not entirely exempt when living in these
situations adjacent to a serra.
The old vicar has a woman with several children in the house with him,
who is housekeeper and without a husband; while the youngest of the
children indicates clearly its paternity.
Those acquainted with the habits of some of the priesthood in Brazil
will not regard this allusion as indelicate, or involving any thing
unbecoming.
Though there were servants about the house, the vicar insisted upon
doing most that was required for us.
TUESDAY, _January 2, 1866_.
Soon after I arose this morning, my old camarada, Senor Pedro, came in
to make the announcement that all was ready for the anticipated voyage,
and attributed his failure to go on yesterday to the straying of a mule.
But my inference is, that he could not bear the idea of leaving this
festa and grand procession, and availed himself of a subterfuge, to
quiet my impatience under the delay beyond his time appointed for
starting.
I was supplied with a cup of coffee, and gave my old friend, the vicar,
a heartfelt expression of my thanks for his kindness; when he gave me
his best wishes for a prosperous voyage, and embraced me after the
Brazilian manner,[28] with a warmth which made me feel that I was
leaving a real friend.
In repairing to the house of Senor Pedro, he provided some farina, stew
of beef, and big hominy, with bananas, for my breakfast, which were
despatched with the aid of a spoon, as knives and forks seemed to be no
part of his household furniture. This finished, I found that all the
family were preparing to set out with us, as we were to go that day to a
place owned by this man some twenty miles distant in the country. The
horses for the women were brought through the house and taken into the
back yard for them to mount. They soon sallied forth all astride, with
their skirts so arranged as to cover their nether extremities, and,
having drawers with straps under their feet, they were in regular trim
for the expedition.
The old woman and three grown daughters were all mounted after this
style, and seemed to use their stirrups and manage their horses as if
they had been used to this mode of travelling. Their saddles are
somewhat different from those used by the men, having a quilted seat,
which serves as a cushion to protect them in riding astride.
Upon going out of town, we fell in with another party of women who had a
more genteel appearance, and were seated in the ordinary way upon
side-saddles,—one of them being especially well provided with horse and
equipments. She was a young lady, very tidily dressed, and rather the
best-looking woman seen in this section. One of the women of this party
was the wife of a son of my old camarada, and her husband was carrying
their only child before him on his mule.
The third member of this party was the mother of the other two women,
but they are all of a very different stamp from the family to which they
have become connected by marriage, and I could not but think they viewed
our party of women astride of their horses as presenting a disgusting
aspect. One of the daughters of my escort had a young child, and carried
it most of the way in her arms, while her mother, an old woman of fifty
years, carried it the rest of the time. These women rode the entire
twenty miles astride without dismounting, and did not show any
particular fatigue on arrival.
Within half a mile of Paranapanema we entered the forest, and, for three
miles, the soil was red, and would certainty produce a fair yield of any
thing that might be cultivated.
This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country,
and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the
soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines
interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of
land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use,
but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good
appearance.
Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São
José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of
great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber,
and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to
account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude
wilderness.
After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and
found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten
feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for
thirty bushels to the acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if
the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.
The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a
great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless
that the soil is better than on the level land.
There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines,
and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none
of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.
The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as
the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts
of life, or very little advance in civilized life.
If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately
portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the
meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating,
the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only
seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited
to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.
I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now
the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the
people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to
realize by actual participation.
The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the
yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than
covers one of these hogs.
The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers.
What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter
the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The
people fare worse than the brutes.
My old camarada having me now in his power, informed me that it would be
necessary to take one more horse than was expected in his arrangement
with Mr. Bennaton, and that instead of going for ten dollars as he had
agreed, that he must have seventeen dollars and fifty cents. Upon my
objecting he then named fifteen dollars, saying that he would have to
take provisions for us and the animals; and, under all the
circumstances, I acceded to this proposition, as it is the exact amount
supplied by Mr. Bennaton for expenses.
WEDNESDAY, _January 3, 1866_.
I brought out my blanket and pillow last night to facilitate the
preparations of mine host for my night’s rest; and a rude bedstead with
cords of the sipo vine, over which were some matting, a horse-blanket,
and a sheet, gave promise of comfort. But the numerous fleas beset me so
that I was induced to strip off shirt and drawers and wrap up in the
blanket to protect myself against them. Getting once clear of these
pests, and having the woollen blanket next my person, it was
impracticable for them to make an entrance, as their legs get tangled in
the wool so as prevent jumping, or even crawling to any considerable
extent.
It is somewhat remarkable that no bedbugs or chinches have been seen in
this country, and it is fortunate for the lower classes (who are so
filthy) that this insect does not propagate here to any large extent.
I am sitting upon my trunk writing, while the corn is being shelled and
other arrangements are progressing for our outfit. My two tin-plates,
and knife and fork, have been brought forth for use here, and upon the
voyage. I gave my friends at Paranapanema upon separating a can of
tomatoes, and one of partridge, reserving two cans of tomatoes and one
of mutton for this trip; and, from the present aspect of affairs, they
are likely to be in urgent demand, as supplies are scarce.
One of the men working on this place has shot a large monkey, and these
people tell me that these ugly animals are frequently eaten here, but I
hope it will not be served up for our trip.
One of the advantages I hoped to derive in being separated entirely from
those speaking English was improvement in the use of the Portuguese
language, but these caipiras have such a bad pronunciation that I have
considerably greater difficulty in communicating with them than with
educated Brazilians, and there is not much encouragement to learn any of
the language from them, so that I will talk no more than is needed.
After a great trial to my patience, we started at noon, and I found the
son was to accompany the old man as my escort for the voyage. Making a
halt at the son’s house, I found a cucumber lying on the table, and
getting some salt, it was enjoyed very much. This is a new place, as is
also that of the wife’s family near by, and there are a number of new
shanties through this obscure tract of country, which have been built as
retreats for those getting out of the way of recruiting officers. I
witnessed the modus operandi of dodging the issue this morning, in the
movements of a man and his wife.
She was mounted astride of one horse, and sundry supplies of eatables
were packed in panniers upon another tackey, while the man went afoot
with his gun. Upon inquiry as to their destination, the only answer was,
that they were going into the forest to sojourn for a time.
The country passed through to-day was for the most part hilly and very
poor, having the native pine in great number and of large size, which
here, as its namesake with us, is an indication generally of thin soil.
The wood of this is more like the soft white pine, and not much used.
An hour before sundown we reached a house, when my escort intimated to
me we would stop for the night. I suggested that we had made a very
short journey, being only fifteen miles, and that it was some time until
night; yet he said there was no house, water, or pasture to be found at
any convenient distance, so that I had to acquiesce. Now we shall see
more of caipira life, but in somewhat better condition than the
miserable abode of my old camarada’s family. The house was a very good
mud wall and thatched roof structure, with four divisions; one being for
the corn, another the cooking-apartment, and the two others for
sleeping-rooms. As the manner of constructing the walls of these houses
is characteristic of this class of people, it may be stated that upright
timbers are placed in the ground at the corners, and at such other
points as the size of the building requires, upon which rests the plates
for the roof. Between these uprights are arranged vertically and
longitudinally, making a check-work, numerous small strips or laths of
the palmetto, upon which is plastered a mortar composed of clay with an
admixture of cow-dung. This last-named article is used in this country
to give tenacity to the mortar, and, from the general resort to it, I
infer that it must serve a good purpose. A wall plastered in this way on
the outside and inside gives protection to the inmates from the weather,
and, if not subjected to any violence, will remain for a number of years
in good condition.
These thatched houses (palhaçar casas) are covered with a kind of long
coarse grass, or with the leaves of a species of palm, secured to the
laths of the roof by the sipo vine; and each layer extending partly over
the foregoing, a very thorough security against rain is effected. With
occasional repairs, this covering serves as protection for ten or twelve
years.
In such walls, and with such a covering, an earth floor is usually
found, and this may be the natural soil, if in a clay region, but is
usually made with mortar, such as is used on the walls. As it is very
rare to see a chimney in any kind of a house in Brazil, this style of
building is of course without any other place for a fire than upon the
dirt floor, in the middle of the apartment used for cooking, and the
smoke finds its way through the roof as best it may.
The house at which we are to spend the night is owned by Senor José
Francisco de Aranna, who is a tall, dark-skinned man, and probably
having a mixture of Indian and negro blood; while his wife is a stout
and rather comely white woman, being much fairer complexioned than most
of those seen in this country. She seemed to be expected to perform most
of the labor about the establishment, and got our dinner ready in a
reasonable time.
The table for myself and my two attendants consisted of a large stool,
having a cloth which only partially covered it, upon the middle of which
was poured a large pile of farina, and upon each of three corners were
plates, filled with regular home-made hominy and pieces of pork which
had been cooked with it.
Not having met with any gritz before, since coming to Brazil, I enjoyed
this dish hugely.
After it was disposed of, these plates were removed and others with
small bits of fried pork were set down before each of us, which were to
be eaten with the farina; but my appetite had been pretty well satisfied
with the previous abundant supply, and I ate but little of this, while,
however, my attendants made clean plates. Again we were called upon to
partake of a dessert of big hominy, which was very nice, but beyond the
capacity of my stomach, yet the other men managed to worry down all that
was served.
As I have stated elsewhere, the big hominy is made here with the whole
grains of corn, by being pounded in a mortar, and they don’t seem to
know any thing of treating it with lime or ashes, to remove the outside.
Its use is confined entirely to the category of dessert, even among the
best people in the land, under the name, cangica.
While the articles furnished on this occasion were substantial, and the
surroundings clean, the style of serving them was very primitive and
plain, presenting a fair type of the living among the better order of
caipiras.
Our host filled out the backwoods character by giving me some music on
the viola, which is an instrument resembling the banjo, but with
metallic strings, and is in great repute with these people. He sang at
my request, which gave a zest to his performance, and I gave the best
evidence of the soothing influence of his music by going to sleep during
the rather protracted performance. Being in the dark, none of the party
observed this act of appreciation.
THURSDAY, _January 4, 1866_.
I was honored during the night with the only bedstead in the house,
consisting of some forks driven into the ground, upon which some small
straight poles were laid, and having over them a piece of flag matting.
With the assistance of my blanket and pillow, my sleep was profound and
refreshing.
The old man who accompanied me reposed in the crib upon the unhusked
corn, while the son spent the night in some equally convenient place, of
which I was not advised.
We were not permitted to leave without breakfast, and giving again the
bill of fare will afford a farther specimen of the good things enjoyed
by this class of people. The immense pile of farina on the cloth in the
middle of the stool greets us at the outset, with a big deep plate full
of beans and small pieces of meat for each of us, on the corners of this
temporary table. There being no seats about the house, I use my trunk as
was done last evening, and the others hunker down to it.
This was followed by plates of soup, in which the beans and meat had
been cooked, and we were expected to eat farina with it. There is a
peculiar art with these people, in throwing the farina into their mouths
with a spoon, and not touching the lips with it, so that all use the
same spoon without any indelicacy, in eating from the common pile. Next
came the big hominy, and we closed with plates of sweet milk. These
articles should have been served together, and thus conformed to the
usages among the better class, but they were furnished separately in
this caipira regime.
We had no coffee here, and as it is more in keeping with these people to
use the rum of the sugar-cane, (cachaça), it was tendered but declined.
I observed after eating each time, that my camaradas rose to their feet,
and bringing their hands in contact before them, went through some short
ceremony, which was construed as a thanksgiving for what they had
received. This I presume is peculiar to the class, as nothing of the
sort has been observed among the better order of people. There is no
asking of blessing at table, or returning thanks, nor is there any
family worship, where I have been heretofore; but among these people I
heard a service at the house of Senor Pedro, before I rose in the
morning, which seemed to be some devotional exercise on the part of the
family; and it is evident that some of them have more regard for
religious observance than the more refined class of society throughout
this country.
Returning my acknowledgments for the hospitality received, we took our
leave of this very respectable backwoods family and set out, with the
assistance of another caipira to show us the route.
We were shown first into a blind path, leading down a steep hill, and
with a continuation of hills and hollows through the woods for a
considerable distance, but reached after a time a plainer way, leading
by the most irregular and winding course that ever man or beast has
travelled. It was that style of substitute for a road known here by the
name picado, and consists in having a few of the small saplings and
shrubs cut out, so that a horse may pass, and scarcely permitting a
rider to accompany him.
At one time the knees are in contact with a tree in making a short turn;
at another, a limb or bent cane of immense size endangers the head, and
but for the use of the large sheath-knives carried by the camaradas, the
path would have been impassable in many parts. These tremendous
cutlasses, with which every camarada and almost every traveller is
equipped, are equal to a small axe in clearing away obstructions; and
though it looks somewhat savage to see them sticking in the belt of
almost every man upon a voyage, they are very useful, and even
necessary, in a trip such as the present.
Neither of my attendants wore shoes, and upon entering this narrow and
rugged path, beset with brambles and thorns, they rolled up their
breeches above their knees, having less fear of tearing their flesh than
of injuring their clothes. Indeed their scanty outfit of wearing apparel
made this precaution very proper, in view of the tough appearance of the
natural covering of their legs. With my boots outside of my pants I
secured a like immunity from damage to my raiment.
From our entrance into these woods until we passed out into the Faxina
road, a distance of sixteen miles, we were surrounded by lands which
were evidently of good quality; and yet, for the most part, so hilly as
to render their cultivation very difficult. A portion of the soil is
what is known among us as mulatto land, and other parts of a dark gray
aspect. The supply of water at all points is quite sufficient for
domestic uses, but only two places that would afford facilities for
erection of machinery.
The remoteness of these lands belonging to the public domain from a
market, and the great difficulty of getting a practicable road in any
direction, must be a barrier to the occupation of this territory;
otherwise it might be a desirable location for families.
I observed in the midst of this immense forest a small pole pen, and,
upon inquiry, learned that it had been used for confining hogs at night
that were driven along this route to Iporanga.
The nature of the soil and the character of the growth changed
materially on reaching the large open road; and here again we
encountered the pine, indicating thin land, though lying more favorably.
After proceeding upon this road, leading from the town of Faxina to
Iporanga for four miles, we halted for the night at a beautiful stream,
and I availed myself of the opportunity to take a most refreshing bath
after the fatiguing day’s travel.
We had travelled twenty miles only, but, considering the nature of the
road, it was a good result.
After the horses had grazed around until they were satisfied, they all
came up near our rancho and stood for some time, in expectation of
something more substantial. But just then the men were preparing dinner,
and while we were eating our broiled pork and farina, of which the meal
consisted, the animals all moved off upon the road we had come. I
intimated to them that the animals were going away, “Os animals estão
indo embora,” to which one of them simply replied, that they would not
go far, “Não vão longe;” but after finishing his grub the old man set
out in search of them upon my suggesting that they would probably return
to his house, “Talves aquelles animals voltarão a sua casa.”
After he had been gone for half an hour, I perceived the son was getting
very anxious, but nothing was said indicating any misgivings, while it
struck me very forcibly that we might be destined to camp here much
longer than desirable. At length the young man started off on the road,
when I called to him “Onde vai, Senhor?” (Where are you going, sir?) To
which he replied that he was going for fuel—“para lenha,” and turned
into the woods. My impression was that he was starting to look for the
old man and the mules, but I had no idea of being left here in the wild
woods alone, and I kept my eye on his movements closely. At length the
old man returned with the animals, having run some two miles to overtake
them on their homeward-bound course; and they have received a caution,
which will enable them in future to understand the movements of these
brutes. They now gave them their corn, and confining the only horse in
the train with a bell on his neck, as a rendezvous signal, the mules
were allowed to go at large for the night.
We found at this place an old dilapidated rancho of the palm leaves, and
seeing that a rain was approaching I stretched my blanket under this,
and it served to protect all three of us from the showers that occurred
at intervals during the night. My position was on the outside, the
others between me and the fire; and the thought occurred to me more than
once that any wild beast that might approach from these dense woods must
come upon me first, yet I did not care to lie so near the fire as the
change would bring me, and gave no signs to them of having any
apprehension.
FRIDAY, _January 5, 1866_.
A pot of beans with the shank-bone and feet of a shoat having boiled
over the fire during the night, the coffee was promptly prepared and the
breakfast was soon served, when I moved off to encounter the worst roads
that can ever be travelled. Each of the party was well mounted, and our
two pack-mules were substantial and active; but it was with the greatest
difficulty that the animals scrambled up the hills, and required the
greatest care in sliding down the steep slopes, while the ridges and
mud-holes in the comparatively level portions of the road were most
serious obstacles to their progress. These roads, where pack trains of
mules travel, become crossed from side to side with alternate ridges and
hollows by the constant treading of the animals in the same tracks. In
strict keeping with the Brazilian character, they follow in the
footsteps of those who have gone before, and nothing induces them to
change their unvarying adherence to the same track. Thus, one after
another, and four or five abreast in a broad road, lines are formed
entirely across, resembling when they become dry the ridges formed for
planting the sweet potato. Indeed this correspondence is so striking
that the first instance seen, being upon a road that had ceased to be
travelled by these troops of pack-mules, induced me to think that a crop
of potatoes or other roots had been planted there. Yet, upon inquiry, I
learned that these ridges resulted from the very thing encountered on
the road to-day, and by lapse of time all signs of tracks had
disappeared.
On our route the depressions were either full of water and mud, or the
slope at one side kept them drained; but in either case it was difficult
for the mules to step over the high ridges, and one needs but to try the
experiment of stepping repeatedly over elevations of this kind to know
how tiresome it must prove to the animal when kept up for some
considerable time.
On the hillsides the clay was for the most part solid, and with a slight
rain that was falling it was very slick, which impeded our ascent; and
our descent of these slick smooth slopes was something very peculiar,
and to me quite amusing. The mules seemed to understand the thing
perfectly, and would glide down as boys descend a steep clay bank upon a
slide, making a continuous impression like the trail of a small narrow
slide upon the side of the hill, from top to bottom. The two pack-mules
were kept ahead, and upon reaching the top of one of the hills, away
they would go one after the other, and as soon as they were out of the
way, then down went the animals of the camaradas, as if upon skates, in
quick succession, and going with that great speed resulting from the
declivity. At the outset, I felt some concern as to following this
example upon my staunch and rather tall mule, hunting for a rough part
of the ground to descend so as to keep his feet from sliding. But I soon
found that it was better to let him go as the others did, and when he
would get under way on a long, steep hill, he went down almost with the
velocity of a locomotive-engine.
These mules are without shoes, and indeed the best-secured shoes would
probably be lost in the stiff mud. The hoof penetrates the clay in the
soft parts of the road, and when drawn out it pops at every step like a
cupping-glass jerked suddenly from the skin. Only one of the animals
made a complete fall during the day, and that was the horse, which was
running loose at the time. The mules frequently slipped upon their knees
in ascending the slick hills, but were upon their feet again in an
instant. These men give their mules the rein entirely loose in
descending the hills; and though I felt like keeping a check upon my
bridle at first, I observed that the others got on better without
tightening their reins, and that the pack-mules went safely without
bridles, so that I soon concluded to give my brave and sturdy mule his
will, letting him select his own way and his own speed in descending the
hills.
When we approached the crest of the serra, the route became so very
steep and rugged that, in compassion to my faithful animal, I dismounted
and walked up several hills. The camaradas had previously on sundry
occasions relieved their animals by walking; and the old man got a fall
in going up a slick hill very much such as that which occurred to the
horse.
There has been a considerable amount of labor bestowed upon this route
across the serra, to make it practicable for pack-mules and those under
the saddle; yet it is very difficult to make the trip even with
excellent animals, and inferior stock could not traverse this awful
road.
I am now entirely satisfied as to the cause of the cotton and other
freight going from Faxina and other neighboring places, over the long
route by way of São Paulo, to Santos upon pack-mules.
The difficulties of the passage across this serra may not be so great
elsewhere as the route by which I travelled to-day; but from all that
can be learned it is not likely that communication will ever be made
easy from that region to the navigable waters of the Ribeiro de Ignape.
Should the same amount of labor be given to the line from Itapetininga
to Sette Barros which has been expended upon the Serra de Santos, it is
most likely that a practicable road could be made there; and that route
is perhaps the most important of any that could be selected for the
accommodation of the public interests of the country. The vast and very
fertile region of Botocatu would find a ready outlet for its products by
this line of communication, and the large tract of agricultural country
lying between this place and Apiahy calls loudly for a road to this
river, over which wagons as well as pack-mules may pass with facility. A
road to Sette Barros, or some point on the Rio Inquia, would secure
steamboat transportation, and redound to the greatest benefit of the
people throughout this entire region, while it would promote vastly the
interests of the government. If the difference of freight by such a
line, and the long line of pack-mules to Santos, is considered, it ought
to induce prompt action in effecting it.
In different parts of the serra, which is here known as the “Morreo de
Chumbo,” (hill of lead,) large mines of lead ore have been discovered;
and the large proportion of metal and its freedom from impurities would
insure an abundant yield.
Large masses of limestone are also present in several places. In one
place, iron ore was likewise observed, which is doubtless connected with
an extensive deposit. I was particularly struck with collections of
superior red chalk, which would be well adapted for red pencils, as well
as the ordinary marking purposes of chalk, while it might also serve as
a pigment when ground. There is said also to be a deposit of coal in the
range of hills next to Iporanga, but this may be a misapprehension of
inexperienced persons. Should there prove to be coal-mines here, the
value of the whole assemblage of mineralogical specimens would be
immensely enhanced.
All these treasures might be made available which are located upon
slopes of the serra looking towards Iporanga, but on the other side the
difficulties of transportation are almost insurmountable.
Upon the top of the serra, between two ridges, there is a farm, upon
which corn was growing most luxuriantly. Bananas and coffee trees were
also seen at another place, looking very well.
An exceeding fine black bull was observed all alone far up on the ridge,
and his appearance indicated fine stock. Other cattle in excellent
condition were seen elsewhere, and in one group there were four bulls,
two of which were very large.[29]
SATURDAY, _January 6, 1866_.
We reposed last night at an old site of a fazenda, belonging to the
estate of Senor Rafael, who died about a year since leaving a large
property. A negro woman, having charge of the house, gave it up to our
possession, and assisted us some in our culinary arrangements, for which
she was rewarded by taking breakfast with these camaradas, after I had
eaten my frugal meal. The farina was made into mush this morning, and
thus furnished something of a variety in our fare.
Having now descended from the elevated land, we proceeded along a
stream, called the Ribeirão de Camarga, which was crossed no less than
nine times within a few miles; and after leaving it, three other smaller
streams were crossed within as many hundred yards, all converging to
empty into one channel that was subsequently passed, as it made its way
into the great receptacle of these waters, the Ribeira de Ignape.
Within six miles we reached the village of Iporanga, and ascertaining
that Senor João Paulo Dias, to whom I bore a letter, was not in town, I
called at his house, and found Senor Joaquim José Vieyra da Rocha in
possession, who treated me very kindly. He provided a very good meal for
me, and yet having no knife on the table, left me to manage with a fork
and a spoon. Upon intimating my wish to arrange for proceeding upon my
journey, he went and brought Senor Manoel Joquim da Rocha, who advised
me to proceed to Xiririca in a canoe, and arrange there for farther
progress.
To this I acceded, and requested him to make all the requisite
arrangements for the trip on the water, and let me know what was to be
paid. He stated that it would be better for me to go this afternoon,
some eight miles down the river to the situ of Senor João Paulo, to whom
I had brought the letter, and spending the night with him, I could
resume my voyage to-morrow morning. All being in readiness, he went with
me to the point of embarkation, and upon my proposing to pay, he said
all was settled in advance, and that I had nothing to pay. Besides this,
he gave me two letters to parties in Xiririca, to facilitate my progress
from there. This gentleman being an entire stranger, and having no
personal interest whatever in serving me, I appreciated most gratefully
his kindness in this matter.
I learned from Senor Manoel that Senor Street had been here some days
ago, but had returned to Cananea, and perhaps to São Paulo; yet it was
my expectation that he might still be found at the former place, and my
wish was to communicate with him if possible in this region.
In descending the river, my negro boatman told me that the gentleman to
whose house I was going was one of a party in canoes at a landing near
by us. I directed him to stop his canoe at this place, and upon meeting
Senor João Paulo, the letter of Senor Joaquim Custodio Merada of
Paranapanema was delivered to him. He invited me to return with him and
his family to the town; but upon stating to him my destination, he
proposed at once to go back with me to his situ below.
I suggested to him that this would perhaps incommode his family, but all
seemed to acquiesce cheerfully, and returned.
His cotton field was visited, and the land seemed to be well adapted to
the growth of this article; but the work was very deficient, and the
want of proper culture was indicated in the large number of stalks that
were allowed to remain in a hill. In some instances, I counted as many
as eight stalks growing in close proximity to each other, and the hills
generally had more than three stalks. I advised him to reduce the stand
to two stalks in a place, for a portion at least of his crop, that he
might see the benefit of thinning it out. I selected one stalk which
happened to be alone, and counted upon it twenty-two squares; and no
stalks where there was two or more in a place exceeded sixteen squares,
thus illustrating on the spot the advantage of more space.
A portion of the plants on this place have been destroyed by the ants,
(formica,) and I suggested to him that the use of the plough in planting
and in the subsequent cultivation of the cotton, would be likely to keep
the soil free from the ant:
Another portion of the field was overrun with the weeds; and even the
hoe had not been used in any part of his cotton, so as to afford a good
result. A part of this land is river bottom, but above ordinary
inundations, while another part is elevated land, running up from this
flat, and it seemed that the latter was the best suited to the
production of cotton, being also less liable to the attacks of the ant.
This low land would doubtless suit corn well, yet it is here as we see
all the world over, the article that is supposed to bring most money has
precedence; and no corn was seen, though he stated that it was planted
in some other portions of land.
The lands lying along the river thus far are very hilly and almost
mountainous, with here and there, as at this place, a level space in
which cotton, corn, or sugar-cane is planted. The more irregular lands
are usually covered with mandioca, the root of which is the great source
of farina, that is so generally used as food in this country.
Coffee trees were observed growing well in the yard at this place,
having a good crop of berries and abundant blooms, where the berries
were not yet formed. Senor João informed me that coffee gives a good
yield here, and that there is no frost in this section to damage the
crop.
There is a rice pounding-mill in operation adjoining the dwelling, and
it is expected to connect a cotton-gin with the same water-power.
As yet there are no cotton-gins in this region of country, and any one
who would anticipate the supply of the planters by erecting machinery
for cleaning and packing cotton upon this river, would realize a fine
return from his investment.
Senor João gave me this evening a fine specimen of lead ore, taken from
a deposit within five miles of Iporanga; and he says there is certainly
a bed of coal in the same vicinity, specimens of which he has sent to
Rio de Janeiro, but no report has yet been received from the examination
of it. He states that a good road can be made from the site of this lead
and coal to the river, and transportation in large canoes thence to
Xiririca, at which point the river becomes navigable for steamboats.
A large coal-mine here would be far more valuable than a gold mine to
the fortunate owner.
Senor João Paulo Dias is the delegado of police for the municipality of
Iporanga, and occupying a position in society which entitles his
statements and opinions to respect. Upon inquiring the facts as to
health and climate in this locality and the adjacent country, he gives
an unqualified voucher for their salubrity and pleasantness. I see
nothing that could induce disease; and the atmosphere is dry, with the
sun shining all the day brightly, while the elevation gives a more
pleasant temperature than in lower places, or even in the plateau lands.
I am informed that none of these troublesome little insects which
penetrate the skin of the feet, and other parts, are found here, and yet
there are hogs constantly about the yard.
I learn here that the lands of Dom Prates, of which mention was
previously made, are located near the route from Apiahy to Iporanga, and
though hilly are considered fertile. It is stated, however, that the
coffee trees planted there have all died, from some inscrutable cause. I
am satisfied that the land is very unfavorably located for
transportation, and shall not try to visit it under all the
circumstances.
The important matter in selecting a place is to secure lands adapted to
all the variety of products, which are exempt from liability to
sickness, and affording ready means of communication with a market, by
means of navigation. Such I trust may be found combined in the
neighborhood of Xiririca; and without spending time looking at other
points I will proceed to investigate those lands.
SUNDAY, _January 7, 1866_.
Though this day should have been observed as a day of rest, the
arrangement of Senor Manoel made it incumbent to proceed in his canoe
down the river to-day. After breakfasting with Senor João Paulo I was
provided with a supply of chicken, fish, etc., etc., for my dinner, and
took my departure at 9 o’clock A. M. The large fish, of which I had a
part, and had also partaken at breakfast, was caught with a hook from
the river, and though the name has escaped me, it was a fine specimen of
what these waters produce. I understand that large fish are not so
frequent here as lower down in the stream, but that there are a great
many of good size for table use in all parts of the river.
While coming down in the canoe I read in the Portuguese Testament the
sixth chapter of St. John’s gospel, and tried to profit by the lessons
of dependence upon the Lord which it inculcates.
In the early part of my descent the lands were quite mountainous on each
side of the river, but the irregularity of the surface gradually became
less, until I reached a region where the elevations afforded only an
agreeable relief to the more uniform configuration of the surface.
All the corn seen in the first part of the voyage seemed to have been
planted early, and had become prematurely dry, giving an unfavorable
impression of the yield of this region. But that observed lower down,
and more recently planted, looked fresh and vigorous, while the corn
approaching maturity was evidently of better stamina than that passed
above. This change was evident after descending twenty miles, and
decided after reaching the Inguary. This small river enters opposite to
a very pretty island, which looks as if it would be productive; and the
appearance of the corn on each bank of the Ribeira indicated good soil.
Upon descending further, the Laguary, a larger stream on the left, was
passed, and I was told that canoes ascend it to a considerable distance.
Below this is the island of Bananal Grande.
My sturdy negro boatman did not seem inclined to expend much his
energies upon his paddle, and I endeavored to stimulate him by offering
a reward for a quick trip. But he subsequently sat down to paddle, and
actually went to sleep. I then said that he must be very tired, and
proposed to relieve him for a time, but he insisted there was no need of
my doing so, and seemed to turn over the paddle to me reluctantly. My
progress was not the most satisfactory, and getting into a swift place,
the canoe made headway towards a point of land which I had to turn. The
negro, perceiving my inability to manage his craft, again took the
paddle, and after this there was no more sitting down to sleep. These
fellows stand up in using the paddle or pole, and it is surprising how
long they can continue this severe labor without intermission. This
canoe was a regular dug-out, as are all on this river. It measured about
twenty (20) feet in length, two (2) feet across the mouth, and eighteen
(18) inches deep. The general thickness did not exceed one inch, with a
belt of increased thickness in the middle, and with somewhat more
substance in the bottom.
The negro informed me that such a canoe could be bought for six dollars
($6.00) at Iporanga.
Reaching Xiririca shortly after 6 o’clock P. M., I went immediately to
the house of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorgi, and upon presenting the letters
I bore from various parties, he proposed that I should proceed with him
and his family down the river to his situ. To this I cordially assented,
saying, “En eston as suas ordens.” His wife was introduced to me, and
having learned that she spoke English, I forthwith propounded the
interrogatory, “Falla Inglez, Senhora?” But I was answered, “Não,
Senhor. Esquece toda lingua Ingleza.” She had spoken English when she
was first married, but having no one to converse with for eight years,
it had been forgotten, and I was left to my small acquirements in
Portuguese as the only means of communication with this family. Senor
Guilherme, a son of Senor Miguel, was also presented to me, and a number
of other gentlemen who happened to be at the house when I entered. I
escorted Senhora to the canoe-landing, giving her my arm, as I had
learned this act of civility was viewed much in the same light as with
us. All that was said by either was mutually understood, and my prospect
for getting on in my communications with intelligent, educated people,
is far more encouraging than in my intercourse with the caipiras with
whom I have been for several days past in coming across the country.
I was accommodated in the huge family canoe, which had a covering of
raw-hide, and all were comfortably protected for the voyage of ten
miles.
The negro with the other canoe, in charge of my baggage, was directed by
Senor Miguel to follow us.
MONDAY, _January 8, 1866_.
Requesting Senor Guilherme to write a note of thanks for me to Senor
Manoel Joaquim da Rocha, for the service rendered by the man and the
canoe in bringing me down the river, they were dismissed this morning at
an early hour to return to Iporanga.
Having learned definitely that Senor Street has left this section, I am
thrown upon my own resources in making any exploration of the lands,
and, as Senor Miguel seems very kindly disposed, I have accepted his
invitation to remain a few days for the purpose of looking around the
country.
His dwelling and all its appliances present an air of substantial
comfort, and even of elegance in some respects. The parlor is a large,
well-furnished apartment, and has a piano of the bureau order, which is
very fashionable in this country. His wife performs well upon this
instrument, and has also the accomplishment of speaking French and
Italian, though she has forgotten most of her English. She is very
sprightly, and appears quite young for the wife of a gentleman of
fifty-five years, as I take Senor Miguel to be from his appearance. He
is originally from Spain and retains much of the harsh accent of that
country in speaking the Portuguese, so that I do not understand him with
the same facility as I do his wife or his son. The only fruit of the
present marriage is one pretty little girl, who is quite a prattler. By
a former marriage he has this son and two others, one a lawyer at
Ignape, and the other a Catholic priest at Bahia.
Senor Miguel has at this place extensive machinery with water-power, for
treating rice and sugar-cane, from the latter of which the rum (cachaça)
is the chief yield, as it is found to pay better than the sugar or
molasses.
I was struck with the convenience of his rolling scaffolds for sunning
the rice, there being three or four of different elevations, so that one
goes under the other, and each having its separate track, they can be
compactly stored under a house or drawn out to be exposed to the sun. A
similar plan to this would be well suited for drying coffee, yet nothing
of the kind was seen in the coffee establishments, and they should
profit by the suggestion. Upon these a few of the women and children
about the house can draw out or run under shelter, as may be required, a
large amount of rice or coffee.
There is also a saw-mill in operation here which seems to be of long
standing, and has a perpendicular saw that works rather slowly.
The water-power used for these several purposes is a stream of no great
magnitude, that comes into the Ribeira at this point, and by throwing a
dam across some short distance above, he secures sufficient water for
his purposes.
The residence and other buildings are located upon the bank of the river
within a short distance of the water, and sundry large canoes supply the
means of transportation to and from this place, which is called
Caiacauga.
These canoes are of various sizes, made out of a solid log of wood. The
one in which we all came down last night is forty-five feet long,
thirty-two inches deep and thirty inches across the mouth. But there are
others larger than this in all respects, and some measuring three feet
across the mouth.
The largest canoes will carry ten thousand pounds of freight upon this
river, and are worth about one hundred dollars; those of eight thousand
pounds capacity may be bought for ninety dollars; while those of five
thousand pounds capacity are valued at fifty dollars. From this down to
the size capable of carrying two men and their baggage, the price ranges
even as low as five dollars. This is found to be a very economical means
of transportation, and those who employ their canoes for the public
charge but twenty cents per head from Xiririca to Ignape, a distance of
between ninety and one hundred miles. The steamboats adopt the same
scale of rates; and from Ignape to Rio de Janeiro the rate of
transportation is forty cents per head, making the entire freight from
Xiririca to Rio de Janeiro only sixty cents per head when transported by
water.
In comparing this with the table of published rates from Santos to Rio
Claro, or any of the interior towns in the direction of Araraquara, it
is found the latter is two dollars and forty cents per head without
including the further item of shipment to Rio de Janeiro from Santos. So
much for the difference of water and pack-mule transportation. We may
reasonably calculate that the transportation to Rio from Araraquara will
be five-fold greater than from Xiririca, even when the line of railroad
is completed from Santos to Campinas. The pack-mules being placed on the
upper part of the line will continue to exact a heavy tariff before
articles reach the cars, and the rate of freight by railroad must exceed
very much that by water.
This matter is of great consequence in the profits of a crop; and while
many articles are entirely precluded from market, by the rates of
transportation on pack-mules from the interior of this province, even
coffee and cotton cannot be forwarded to any advantage, except when the
prices of these commodities are very high. On the other hand, there is
scarcely any thing marketable which could not afford to pay the freight
from Xiririca and leave a margin of profit; and all that is saved upon
coffee and cotton is clear gain to the planter in this region.
The Ribeira de Ignape is navigable for steamboats of light draught at
all seasons up to Xiririca, and at the ordinary state of the water,
during the rainy season, those drawing eight feet can pass up it. The
part affording least depth of water is at the mouth, all other parts of
the river, being very favorable for navigation.
It runs very smoothly opposite the site of Caiacauga; and in passing
down a few miles this afternoon, I was impressed with its special
adaptation for navigation.
I visited, in company with Senor Miguel, the farm of Senor Manoel
Roberto de Almaida, about two miles down the river; and though being
under cultivation, it interested me greatly.
Cotton of American seed had been growing four years without pruning, and
yielded two crops a year. The present prospect for a crop is fair, and I
counted an average stalk having forty-two grown bolls upon it, while an
isolated stalk had eighty-five bolls. I saw a very large stalk of cotton
separate from the planting of the field, where it had ample space to
spread, which must have had, at the least calculation, two hundred
bolls.
This is the first specimen seen which has been growing for such a length
of time, and it has not even been cut off, as most of the plants have
been, which are more than one year’s growth. The appropriateness of this
climate for the continuous production of cotton from a single planting
during four years, is illustrated by a considerable field growing in
this place; and apart from being arranged in rows, it affords but little
evidence of attention. The land is evidently inferior to most of the
surrounding territory, and yet it is of that dark gray order, with an
admixture of coarse gravel, that is usually best adapted to the culture
of cotton. The recently planted cotton also looks well, and if it was
cultivated properly, would doubtless far exceed the yield of that which
has been on the land four years.[30]
Coffee trees of great age were seen here still bearing some fruit, and
younger trees, with a full crop of the berries, indicated a climate well
suited to this article. This man is eighty-five years old, and has a
sister ninety years old living in this neighborhood, giving good
evidence of the healthfulness of the country.
TUESDAY, _January 9, 1866_.
I came down the river this morning in a canoe with Senor Miguel and his
son, to his plantation at Ponto-Grosso, a distance of forty miles from
Caiacauga. The rain was falling most of the time of our descent, and
prevented me from seeing much of the land or crops on either side of the
river. The few patches of corn seen did not present a favorable aspect,
but having no information as to the period of its planting, I could not
judge correctly of it.
We landed at a sandy beach, and breakfasted upon the abundant supplies
brought with us; and dined after our arrival, having taken eight hours
to make the trip.
The Rio Inquia enters the Ribeira eight miles above here, and adds
greatly to the amount of water, so that it bears a striking resemblance
to the Mississippi river, in the character of the stream and the general
aspects of the adjacent country. It is a magnificent body of water, and,
with the exception of a single small steamboat, is only navigated by
large canoes, which transport the products along its margin to Ignape, a
distance of forty miles below this point.
The lands along the banks of this river are covered for the most part
with a most luxuriant growth of the copine grass, which is relished
greatly by cattle, horses, and mules; but it is so succulent that it
does not seem well for drying so as to make hay, and the land is too
valuable to be left open for pasturage, so that very little of it is
made available.
The soil of the river bottoms is a dark ash color, of a fine loamy
consistence, and of great depth, so that it does not become exhausted by
cultivation; and corresponds (so far as my limited knowledge of the
lands of the Mississippi enable me to speak) very much in all respects
to the Mississippi bottoms.
Upon visiting a field where cotton and corn are planted, the former was
found to be growing too luxuriantly, and will be likely to make a large
stalk without affording a good yield. The stand was irregular, and had
been but partially supplied by replanting and transplanting. This last
process is entirely new to me, and though not resorted to in the
Southern States, it has a fair prospect for success here in the rainy
season. The importance of having the stand of cotton all as nearly of
the same age as practicable, and getting it forward during the wet
months, will warrant the trouble, if it is found to succeed well. It is
demonstrated that the plant takes root and grows, but how it may thrive
or yield subsequently is yet to be tested. It has not been tried by any
other person who I have met in Brazil, and has been resorted to in
compliance with a suggestion of Dom Frederico Leopoldo Cesar Burlamaqui,
a writer upon the culture of cotton, whose paper was published in 1863,
with a view to induce the planters of Brazil to plant cotton while its
culture was suspended in the United States.
The corn is planted in rows, with five rows of cotton intervening, and
consequently too far apart for the pollen from the tassels to have its
full effect upon the silks. The ears are therefore not well filled with
grains, and the general size of the ears do not seem in proportion to
the large stalks. The white flint corn is planted here exclusively, and
the same seed has been used from time immemorial, so that a change of
the grain is perhaps now indicated for the improvement of the crop. Of
course the corn ought to be planted separate from the cotton, and the
rows being in closer proximity would secure a better result.
There has been a change made in the rice planted here, within the last
three years, and the superior quality of the yield over that of other
specimens is very evident. A part of the new supply was from Santos,
which is regarded an excellent place for rice; and another portion was
procured from South Carolina, the rice from that State being considered
the best of the world. Senor Miguel tells me the seed of the Carolina
rice yields more grains to the head, but not larger or better quality
than the other. The rice culture here is not confined to low lands, but
is mixed with corn and cotton by some persons in uplands. My friend has
at this place a rice-mill in operation, with a dozen mortars and
pestles, and cleans ten sacks of rice daily. This is a task assigned to
those working in the establishment, and they have to complete it before
stopping the mill. It requires it to go quite early, and continues until
after night, to accomplish the whole process.
WEDNESDAY, _January 10, 1866_.
We set out this morning before breakfast and visited a field of corn
which was approaching the period of tasseling, and presented a vigorous
growth, though too much crowded in the drill.
A coffee field was next examined, containing twenty-five thousand
(25,000) trees of two years and younger which had been transferred from
a nursery. They were evidently retarded in their development by a
luxuriant crop of mandioca that surrounded the plants and shut out the
sun to a great extent; yet the most of them look in a healthy, thriving
condition, and some have blooms or a few berries of coffee. This coffee
is planted upon elevated land, and the soil is dark gray with a mulatto
base. These conical-shaped elevations are frequently observed here, and
stand out in bold relief to the general flat character of the land near
the river.
The mandioca presents an appearance very similar to the castor oil plant
when fully developed; and the root is the great source of farina which
is eaten by whites and blacks throughout Brazil. There are two distinct
varieties, one of which is very similar to the sweet potato, being eaten
in the same mode; while the other contains a poisonous juice which must
be expressed from the root before the solid portion is used for food.
This juice is said to be fatal to man or animal if taken in any
considerable quantity; and the presence of it to a greater or less
extent in some specimens of the farina is doubtless prejudicial to
health, and may perhaps be a source of leprosy in some instances
elsewhere.
The farina, however, when properly prepared from this poisonous root, is
found to be nutritious and healthy; and this variety of the mandioca
supplies most of the people with a substitute for bread. The roots are
scraped and grated by a machine, when the coarse powder is subjected to
compression under a screw to express the juice, after which the solid
portion is pounded in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. This is
then dried in shallow pans over a furnace, and undergoes a cooking or
parching process that fits it for keeping in sacks or barrels for any
length of time. It is generally put on the table in this dry state, and
is mixed with almost every thing else that may be eaten, in the same
manner that we use bread.
Besides this, there is also a beautifully fine and white powder made
from the mandioca by a process similar to that of preparing starch; and
it is used for diet under the same circumstances that arrow-root is
employed with us.
The mandioca grows well upon this land, and yields without culture, but
should be allowed to remain in the ground from eighteen months to two
years to attain maturity.
One stalk, which was torn out of the ground this morning for me to
examine the roots, had twenty developments resembling sweet potatoes,
and the whole would have filled a peck measure, thus affording a most
abundant yield. It is propagated by cuttings from the limbs of the
growing plants, and these are planted so that the trees cover the entire
land densely and uniformly.
After breakfasting, the extensive new ground (roça) was visited. One
hundred and sixty (160) acres planted in cotton and twenty acres in corn
and rice present quite a promising prospect, though as yet nothing
definite can be determined as to the result. The cotton is all young,
but the most advanced looks well, notwithstanding there is in some parts
a considerable admixture of fern and poke-stalks, calling for the hoe,
and the dead trees are lying promiscuously over the ground. There has
been an attempt to plant in rows, but they are very irregular; and the
stand of cotton is in many places deficient, though it does not seem to
be the result of destruction by the ant as in other places.
All the work here is done with the hoe; and the planting is effected by
digging a hoeful of dirt, dropping five or six seed, and then covering,
at intervals of two feet, more or less.
This land is elevated and the soil dark gray, with an admixture of sand,
presenting very favorable conditions for cotton if the culture was
properly conducted.
The corn was yet young but flourishing, and is expected to yield without
farther work.
The rice is planted in the flats between the more elevated grounds, and
evidently will give an excellent yield.
Pine-apples were found growing promiscuously in different parts of this
plantation, and I had the opportunity of eating this most delicious
fruit to my complete satisfaction; and we started back with our canoe
well stocked with large, yellow, sweet-scented cones.
In returning I observed the settlements more than in descending, as it
was no longer raining, and there was a large number of dwellings on the
margin of the Ribeiro, having in many instances a rice-mill connected
with the establishment. These mills are moved usually by small streams
of water coming into the river from either side; and a prime object in
locating a residence is to be near one of these streams.
At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da
Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor
Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.
This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms
of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves
irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used
by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish
constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of
living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the
population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the
local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to
do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and
children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are
but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want
of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something
unfavorable to health, and I should not like a location so low down on
the river, or so immediately upon its margin.
THURSDAY, _January 11, 1866_.
Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the
house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the
floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed
our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse
(Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line
between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.
It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a
resemblance to a horse.
Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies
brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found
to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to
remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of
cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in
a private dwelling.
As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend
gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his
opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.
We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José
Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states
that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per
tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as
thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that
neighborhood is sure and of good quality.
It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected
by a covering of raw-hides.
FRIDAY, _January 12, 1866_.
After enjoying a comfortable night in the hospitable mansion of my
friend, Senor Miguel, I went this morning with his son to set a gill-net
for fish, and thence across the river to gather some grapes. This
planting is made from cuttings of vines in the United States, and is now
bearing a crop of fine fruit. The vines are arranged upon a large wooden
frame, and appear vigorous and healthy, though upon the low land near
the river, which is certainly not a very favorable site for the grape
culture.
That celestial fruit, the jaboticaba, was also found growing in the same
locality, but only a few remained of the abundant crop which the trees
are said to have borne this year.
Several other varieties of fruit trees were seen, but it not being the
season of maturing, I had no opportunity to test their qualities.
On returning to the gill-net quite a number of small fish were entangled
in its meshes, and Senor Guilherme has since visited it again, getting
quite a full mess for the entire family. Some of them, called cascudo,
are a new order of fish to me, having a hard skin with scales like the
pike or gar, and a very large broad fin upon the back, spreading out
like a fan.
The sun was shining brightly during our walk, but it subsequently
clouded up and rained.
Senor Miguel showed me this afternoon a field in which cotton and
sugar-cane had been planted together, the crop of cotton being gathered
some months ago, and the cane being now cut so as to permit the cotton
to make another crop from the old stalk.[31]
SATURDAY, _January 13, 1866_.