DR. GASTON:_Hunting a home in Brazil

DEAR FRIEND:—In satisfying your request for information in regard to our

missionary work in Brazil, I am compelled to-day to be very brief.

In August of 1859, the Rev. A. G. Simonton arrived in Rio de Janeiro. In

July of 1860, myself and wife arrived. In May, 1861, Mr. Simonton began

preaching in Portuguese to three or four persons. The number of hearers

slowly increased the first year to twenty-five or thirty.

In December of 1861, the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider arrived in Rio de

Janeiro, destined to labor among the German colonists of this province.

He resides in Rio Claro, (São João de,) and has devoted himself to this

special work, amid many discouragements, and seeing but little fruit as

yet of his labors.

In January of 1862, a church was organized in Rio de Janeiro, when one

American and one Portuguese were received on profession, as the first

fruits of our mission. Our church there now numbers forty-nine members,

nearly all natives and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. Hundreds

have heard the word of God preached. The present average attendance is

nearly one hundred, and would doubtless be much larger, but from the

difficulty of getting a suitable hall for preaching. During most of the

years of 1861, ’62, ’63 and ’64, preaching was held in English in Rio de

Janeiro.

In October of 1863, I came to São Paulo, to begin a new station in this

city. In March of the present year, 1865, we organized a church here,

receiving as our first fruits six persons on profession, all natives,

and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. The attendance here ranges

from fifteen to thirty.

In October of 1864, we received on profession to the church in Rio de

Janeiro, O. Senor José Manoel de Conceicão, formerly a priest of the

Roman Catholic church, and vicar of Brotas in this province. He is a man

of fine talents, education, extensive information, and very eloquent. We

expect (D. V.) to ordain him on to-morrow, to the full work of the

gospel ministry. In his former parish of Brotas a church was organized

on the 13th November of the present year, with eleven members, converts

from Romanism. No missionary resides there, and the work has been done

so far by visits from time to time of the persons above-named.

Since 1855, a Scotch physician has been preaching in Rio de Janeiro. The

result is a church, with a membership of more than one hundred, and an

attendance of from two to three hundred.

About a dozen colporteurs are at work in Rio de Janeiro, and in various

parts of the empire, circulating the Bible and other books.

Some seven or eight German ministers are laboring among their countrymen

in various parts.

Yours, very truly,

A. L. BLACKFORD.

I am also informed that a Presbytery was organized yesterday, by these

three Presbyterian ministers, to be in communication with the Synod of

Baltimore. Senor Conceicão having preached his trial sermon this

morning, is to be ordained this afternoon. It was delivered at the house

of Mr. Blackford, in the presence of a mixed auditory, of which Dr.

Shaw, Major Meriwether and myself formed a part. As he spoke Portuguese,

I could only gather a few ideas, and the others had to draw upon their

imagination entirely; but, like the deaf man in regard to William C.

Preston, we could say he made the motions well.

Afternoon. Since writing the above, I witnessed the ordination of Senor

José Manoel de Conceicão (formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic

church) as a minister of the gospel in the Presbyterian faith, of the

Protestant church. He was interrogated by the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who

was joined by the Rev. A. G. Simonton, and the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider,

in the laying on of hands, while Senor Conceicão kneeled in their midst.

Mr Simonton then delivered an address, at the close of which Senor

Conceicão spoke with deep feeling and the most humble appreciation of

his new relations.

This event indicates an important epoch in the progress of Protestantism

in this papal land, and the character of the individual, with his

influence among the people, will doubtless have considerable effect upon

the public mind. He has manifested much independence in separating

himself from the associations of Romanism; and his appearance bespeaks

the character of a high-toned, intelligent gentleman.

MONDAY, _December 18, 1865_.

Our trunks were packed and all our baggage arranged for taking our

departure early this morning; but it was found that there were still

wanting two pack-mules and a pack-saddle to equip us for the tour.

Upon the proffer of Dr. Shaw to pay for the pack-saddle, one was

purchased by Mr. Bennaton, at the round figure of thirty ($30.00)

dollars. Our friend Mr. Sampson procured two additional mules, and the

outfit was pronounced complete.

The President of the province having given Mr. Bennaton the requisite

document and funds for proceeding with us, our party left the capital at

half-past two o’clock P. M., after a detention of five days for

preparation.

Mr. J. J. Auburtin, general superintendent of the Santos and São Paulo

railway, accompanies us on the tour as far as Sorocaba, having his own

servant, and also his own riding mules. But it seems that he is supplied

with a pack-mule and pack-saddle by Mr. Bennaton, and hence the

necessity for another to be purchased.

There are two camaradas and a servant with us, and the number of animals

is fifteen, there being three pack-mules, with five loose animals,

besides those under the saddle, exclusive of the two mules of Mr.

Auburtin. Two or three of the animals furnished by the government are

not in good condition, but those furnished by private parties are well

fitted for service, and we have much reason to be thankful for the

generosity of these gentlemen in supplying them for our use.

I have the good fortune to be mounted again upon Jack, the mule which

was furnished by Mr. Gephardt for my former tour. He has now been

purchased for the public service by Mr. Bennaton, in view of a

commission which has been intrusted to him by the Minister of

Agriculture, for a survey of routes from Campinas to Itu, and to

Araraquara, with reference to the location of a railroad. After closing

the present expedition, he expects to enter upon that service. This is a

very important movement for the future prospects of any of our people

who may locate near these places, but we cannot rely upon any thing

definite being accomplished speedily for the improvement of

transportation in that direction.

Upon leaving I called at the residence of Mr. Blackford, and got a

Portuguese and English Testament for Dr. Shaw, and, on offering to pay

for it, he told me that payment would be received in farina when

business was commenced in this country, or, in other words, it was a

present.

We halted for the night at the Ponte Cretia, where the establishment and

the feminine tenant gave but little promise of comfort. Corn, however,

for our animals, and supper of chicken and rice for ourselves, with

tolerable beds, reconciled us to the necessity of the situation. In

driving the animals to a pasture in the dark, a horse fell over a

precipice and was left for the night.

TUESDAY, _December 19, 1865_.

After getting a cup of coffee and having corn given to the stock, we got

off from Ponte Cretia at 7 o’clock this morning. The horse being

extricated from the ravine proved to be but slightly injured, and all

moved on towards Itu. A number of trains of pack-mules were passed,

laden with cotton, some of the bales being marked three and a half

arrobas, (one hundred and twelve pounds,) while others were marked three

arrobas, (ninety-six pounds,) and larger in bulk than those observed

from other parts of this province. These bales correspond very much to

the bales of Osnaburg, seen in South Carolina and Georgia, being,

however, a little longer and not so broad. They are enclosed in bagging,

with the sipo vine used instead of ropes.

We met on the road Colonel Fortunato José de Camargo, who resides near

Faxina, and is engaged largely in raising horses, mules and cattle.

Mr. Auburtin informs me that he owns eighty (80) square leagues of

territory, being the largest landowner in the province.

Our weather-protectors were brought into requisition to-day to keep off

the shower of rain.

We stopped early in the day at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim José de

Silva, some two miles from the main road, where every thing needful was

provided for us.

We saw here a patch of tea-plants which had evidently grown well, but

was now neglected. The seed are round, of the size of a small acorn, and

three in each pod.

Cotton which had produced a crop last year was again growing well, after

being cut off near the ground.

Corn is also looking vigorous, and promises a good yield. All this land

is very steep and hilly.

WEDNESDAY, _December 20, 1865_.

After our horses and mules came from the pasture this morning, it was

observed that some of them had blood upon their necks, caused from the

bites of the bat, known as the vampire, that not unfrequently attacks

animals at night, and fixes itself upon a vein of the neck.

Being supplied with an early breakfast, we took leave of Senor Silva and

his two good-looking daughters, who were seen then for the first and

only time during our visit. His son went with us to the Freguezia

Avasariquama, or Piedede, avoiding the steep hills by which we had

approached on the day previous.

One league beyond this place we reached the margin of the Tieté, and

proceeded along it by a very fair road fifteen or sixteen miles, when we

turned to the left, and reached the city of Itu at 6 o’clock in the

evening.

This region of country is very irregular and even mountainous, yet we

found cane growing well, and also a good prospect for corn and rice. The

river is not suited for navigation, and the settlements on both sides

depend upon the road we travelled for sending their products to market

by carts or pack-mules.

We made a halt of three and a half hours during the heat of the day at

the inn of Verzinha, getting dinner and refreshing our animals.

Upon reaching the town of Itu the urgent thirst of some of the party was

satisfied with beer, after which we repaired to the elegant and

extensive establishment of the Baron of Perecicaba. I was sorry that his

son, Antonio Paez de Barros, had left home, as my acquaintance with him

would have enhanced the pleasure of the visit.

The old gentleman, however, received us with the greatest cordiality,

and tendered us any thing he could do or furnish for our comfort.

Leaving Mr. Auburtin to talk with the baron, the rest of us strolled out

to the extensive fruitery, which is nearly a mile in length, and filled

with a great variety of trees and vines.

The best quality of pine apple, called Abacashi, is growing here

abundantly. Oranges, bananas, jaboticabas, pomegranates, figs, peaches

and apples all grow here advantageously. There was a specimen of dwarf

apple, spread over the ground like a small shrub, in the spaces between

the other trees, and having a small, pleasant-tasted fruit. Upon inquiry

I learned that this is a peculiar variety, and not the result of any

special mode of culture.

Grapes of various kinds were growing vigorously in different parts of

the grounds upon frames put up for the support of the vines. We enjoyed

a delicious treat of these fine grapes.

The tea-plant was growing over a large area, and looks flourishing,

affording a good article for table use. This shrub presents much the

aspect of the boxwood tree, and from two to four of the tender leaves

from each branch are picked off at each gathering of the crop.

Coffee likewise has a place in this collection of trees, but the soil

has not that fertility which is requisite for a good yield, and manure

is employed to give vigor to its growth.

The climate and soil of this region is regarded as particularly adapted

to the yield of fruits.

Supper was announced at 9½ o’clock, and was of the most substantial

order, with beer and wine.

Mr. Auburtin brought out his own black tea by permission.

THURSDAY, _December 21, 1865_.

After breakfast the Baron joined us in a ride to the Salto of the Rio

Tieté, four miles distant.

This is an irregular water-fall, making quite a cascade at one point of

perhaps twenty feet. The entire fall of water is about fifty feet, and

the site is well suited for machinery of any magnitude that may be

desired. A large cotton factory might be located here with a prospect of

being supplied with raw material from the country below; and much of it

could ascend the river in canoes or boats to the foot of this fall.

There has been a small mill here upon a site that would warrant

extensive works, with command of any amount of water-power, and the

investment would doubtless pay handsomely.

A public highway is projected from this place to Jundiahi, the present

terminus of the railway from Santos; and this distance of thirty miles

with wagons and mules would not increase greatly the expenses on the

products of a factory.

Upon pricing a lot of horses and mules which passed over the bridge

while we were at the Salto, it was found they could be bought from

twenty-five dollars a head to forty dollars a head, but none of them

were above medium quality and many quite inferior.

In passing through the city of Itu we were shown an establishment in

which an eighteen-saw cotton-gin was moved by a portable steam-engine;

and there was in the building a thirty-saw gin idle which might have

been brought into operation by the same power. There was also a small

press in use, and I counted ten hands of various sizes employed around

these little contrivances.

Mr. Auburtin was much interested in this cotton-cleaning and packing, as

he is desirous of getting information as to the extent and nature of the

attention bestowed upon the culture and treatment of the cotton in this

and the neighboring sections.

It is important for the railroad interest that cotton shall be

successfully cultivated in this region of country; and this gentleman,

with others connected with the company, have done much in placing seed

in the hands of planters and in encouraging the growth of this staple.

His visit now, so far as I learn, has for its object the ascertaining of

the wants of the planters with a view to facilitating their growth of

cotton; and, as Major Meriwether has given him the benefit of his large

experience in growing this staple in the Southern States, he may be able

to enlighten the people of Brazil somewhat in his next article.

A number of gentlemen, among whom were two brothers of the Minister of

Agriculture, accompanied our party this afternoon to the quarry

(lapidarea) of flagstone within a mile of the city. There is an

inexhaustible bed of crude slate, of which the pavements of Itu present

fine specimens; and it is so firm that horses pass along the side-walks

without damage. The slabs in the quarry may be made of any proportions

desired, from the tile of a house-top to massive steps and columns. It

is so smooth and regular as to require no polishing. While at the quarry

we saw a huge block raised from the mass beneath by simply inserting

crow-bars between the adjacent lamina of the stone. Different strata

present different thicknesses of these lamina, suited to different

objects.

The city of Itu is made up to a large extent by the residence of parties

who own planting interests in the country around, and many of them

owning houses here spend most of their time upon their fazendas, so that

the population is not usually proportionate to the number of the houses.

The buildings upon the main plaza have a fine appearance, with iron

railings in many instances to the second-story balconies, which are

ornamented with tasteful figures, gilding, &c. I am informed that a good

dwelling may be rented here, with garden, fruit trees, &c., for less

than a hundred dollars a year; and the health of the location has a

widespread reputation. The people seen about this place have a genteel

look, and are generally neatly dressed, which bespeaks a favorable

feature of the society and the character of the inhabitants.

Our old friend the Baron presented each of our party with ear-picks and

tooth-picks made by himself from the native wood of the country, and

showed us a very old plain knife which was the only instrument used in

making them. This may be considered the baron’s amusement, and by giving

them to his friends he establishes a very close link of association, as

these two articles are more directly personal than almost any thing else

we use.

By the way, the habit of placing tooth-picks upon the table to be used

after eating is a common usage of the best people throughout all this

country; and the fancy stands for holding the wooden tooth-picks are

generally of china, but very frequently of silver, and representing a

peacock or other fowl.

FRIDAY, _December 22, 1865_.

Our energetic old friend, the Baron, being apprised of our wish to make

an early move, gave us breakfast at 6 o’clock. For this we should

doubtless feel under special obligations to his two daughters, who are

inmates of the house at present. One is the wife of Senor Barros, at São

Paulo, from whom I brought a letter to the Baron, and with whom I had

travelled in the diligence in my first trip from Santos. The other

daughter is a widow whose husband died a few years since.

These ladies present an intelligent expression, and not only graced the

table with their presence on previous occasions, but even at this extra

early hour.

Taking our leave of this pleasant family we set out for Porto Feliz,

sixteen miles distant.

The lands on this route are quite thin, but the cotton is found to give

a fair yield; and many farmers, who could barely support their families

formerly, have, by the cultivation of cotton, realized a good return.

Our friend Mr. Auburtin has the credit of saving them from starvation by

introducing the cotton seed into the country; and, as an old minister of

the gospel told an abolitionist in by-gone years, that the negroes of

the South were fed on cotton seed, so I tell him it is with these

people. The amount and quality of the grass in this region does not

warrant grazing farms, and yet the cattle seen on the roadside were

generally in good order.

We reached the town of Porto Feliz at 11 o’clock A. M., and were

hospitably received by Senor Angilo Custodo de Morais, who is a

substantial and plain gentleman of much kindness of heart.

The houses here are extended upon one street for half a mile, and mostly

one-story buildings, without much taste in their structure. The church

is a large building of less antiquated style than most of those seen

elsewhere, and, with a spacious open plaza in front of it, presents the

most comely feature of the place.

We were informed that the best and most commodious houses in the town

could be rented for three dollars or four dollars per month, and living

in other respects is doubtless equally cheap. I observed in one store a

very full assortment of all the variety of goods and utensils that are

ordinarily found in one of our promiscuous country-stores, and on

pricing various articles concluded that every thing was quite as cheap

as in the United States.

Having need for some medicine to give Mr. Bennaton, I went to a

druggist’s shop and was surprised to see the variety and cheapness of

the various standard articles of the materia medica that are in common

use.

The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be

very good.

The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on

an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old

port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons

descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from

this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take

a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and

I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I

called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded

into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back

had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting

ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I

could not resist it even when on my feet.

We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the

towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing

clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil

clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed

into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a

preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I

have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a

lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process

of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several

days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a

very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a

great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.

The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this

river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities,

nor did we see any other fish at this place.

We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this

municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but

my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could

not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this

colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he

professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to

come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of

Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a

large admixture of the African blood.

The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in

this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to

illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark

hue in most instances.

Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as

elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not

clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair

and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and

curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue

results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot

sun or the tropical climate.

In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is

fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue

of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood

generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro

element.

Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast,

but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh

eggs, would be acceptable.

SATURDAY, _December 23, 1865_.

Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had

considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a

guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.

Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet

were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in

corn and cotton, with moderately good results.

In one instance, where the more fertile soil had been cleared and

planted, the weeds and bushes had outgrown the corn, so as to lead to

the abandonment of the crop; and it really looks as if the richness of

the soil, which gives trouble to keep the land clear, becomes a reason

for not cultivating it. There is a strange want of energy among the

common people of this country; and whatever requires much labor, even to

attain the best results, does not suit their habits.

In all this region, where coffee cannot be grown successfully, the

planters are engaging in the culture of cotton, and with some there is

quite a mania on the subject, so that breadstuffs are likely to be

neglected as formerly with us.

We reached the iron-works at Epanema about 11 o’clock A. M., and the

present superintendent, Senor Dom Joaquim de Sonsa Mursa, extended a

cordial welcome to our party. His wife is a German lady, of fine

appearance and much intelligence, who speaks English; and by her kind

attention to our comfort made us feel quite at home. The large house was

clean and neat in all its parts, and her table was very creditable to

her skill as a housekeeper.

In looking around the old structures of this vast establishment for

working iron, it is a matter of surprise that all should have been

suffered to go to wreck. The gentleman who has now undertaken the

restoration of the iron-works has a task imposed upon him which requires

an energy and tact independent of scientific attainments; and there are

practical difficulties which are not likely to be overcome while the

place continues under the auspices of the Brazilian government.

There is a mountain of iron ore of superior quality which must furnish

material to any desired extent for all future time. An inexhaustible

supply of limestone is likewise near at hand to furnish the requisite

flux, besides affording lime of an excellent quality. Sandstone is

likewise found in abundance near the works, and is now being used to

face the furnaces that are being refitted. In addition to these articles

a quarry of slate or flagstone is located in close proximity.

There is also a large amount of good timber growing upon the

mountain-slopes belonging to this property, which may be used for making

charcoal to be employed in the furnaces.

The lands are of prime quality, being the best description of terra

rocha upon the slopes adjacent to the vast reservoir of iron ore.

Under proper cultivation the soil here is suited to produce every thing

to the best advantage; and would yield all the provisions that could be

required by any number of operatives that would be necessary for the

successful working of the place.

A number of negroes, most of whom are now very old, some cattle, and

horses, and mules, belonging to the government, are here under the

charge of Major Dias Albuquerque, who resides at the works, and has been

the agent of the government for several years, simply keeping the

property together without accomplishing any thing towards arresting the

decay of buildings and machinery.

It is a magnificent ruin; and one feels like he had been transplanted to

some vast relic of the ancients, to witness such immense resources lying

in a state of entire disorder and neglect.

This place was put in operation more than fifty years ago, and at one

time did a large business; but was subsequently discontinued, and some

of the machinery was removed to be sent to another iron mine in the

province of Matto-Grosso. This never reached its destination, and lies

useless at some, point from which it is now impracticable to have it

returned.

The site labors under a great difficulty in its isolated position and

want of transportation. But the resources for producing the iron rail

for a road would warrant the erection of a rolling-mill, to prepare the

means of building a line of communication to some eligible point, and it

would be well for some enterprising capitalists to seriously examine the

advantages of a contract for these works, with a view to a permanent

occupation.

In visiting the various points we were supplied with riding animals; and

Mr. Bennaton will be furnished here with two mules of the government to

expedite our farther exploration of the country.

SUNDAY, _December 24, 1865_.

All of us had comfortable quarters for the night, and Dr. Shaw and Major

Meriwether slept in a large bed, over which a crown was suspended, in

which the Emperor slept upon the occasion of his visit to this

establishment some years ago.

Being supplied with breakfast, consisting in part of fresh milk and

butter of superior make, our party left Epanema at 7 o’clock this

morning and rode twelve miles to Sorocaba.

The greater part of the route lies through campo lands of the dark red

order, having a hard and dry-looking grass that is not eaten much by

stock, and here and there a few clumps of trees known as camponia, such

as are left in a rocky place of a field.

Upon reaching the town we were received at the house of Senor Coronel

Manoel Lopez Oliveiro, to whom Mr. Auburtin had a letter from the

President of the province. He was so much occupied with his cordial

reception that he did not introduce the rest of us until requested to do

so by Mr. Bennaton. So goes the world!

Mr. Auburtin being the honored guest, was assigned a suite of rooms

alone; and the other four of us were quartered together in an apartment

of the same size, but all were very comfortably provided for in every

respect.

This gentleman is a man of large means, and has two cotton-gins with

steam-power in the city, where he prepares for the market not only the

yield of his own fazenda but a large amount purchased in the seed. He

seems under some special obligation to Mr. Auburtin for introducing his

cotton to favorable notice in England.

MONDAY, _December 25, 1865_.

The explosion of a few rockets, and the ringing of the church bells at

midnight, in commemoration of the birth of our Saviour, is the only

indication we have had here of Christmas. The only thing to attract

attention is the suspension of the ordinary avocation of life, and every

one seems to wear rather a serious aspect, than to indulge in any

hilarity or festivities on the occasion.

We walked out before breakfast to deliver some letters of introduction

to parties in the town, but none of them were found, excepting Dom

Oliveiro, who treated us very courteously, and tendered us any

assistance in his power. We called also upon Senor Carlos Tolemei, who

manifested great readiness to aid us, inviting all to his house

to-night. Coffee had been served before going out, and we did not get

breakfast until ten o’clock, which was accompanied by tea and cakes, as

has been done at some other places, instead of coffee and milk.

We all rode out with Colonel Lopez to-day, to visit his plantation, and

found cotton, corn and beans, all growing together upon the same ground.

There is no regard for rows in planting any of these articles, and the

stand of cotton is in some parts a little deficient, but in the main

average; the growth is good, and the number of bolls upon the advanced

portion is large. Some of the cotton has been planted this season, but

another portion has been cut off from the growth of last season, and is

springing up again very luxuriantly. The crop gives evidence of good

culture with the hoe, and is quite free from grass or weeds, but the

cotton must suffer by mixture with corn and beans. The soil, is dark and

loose, with an admixture of large gravel, making it very liable to wash,

and hence the absence of the plough in its culture is rather

advantageous than otherwise, and more especially as there are many steep

hills under cultivation. This land corresponds more to some of the

cotton lands of the up-country in Georgia than any territory I have seen

in Brazil.

Senor Carlos rode out with us, and invited the party to visit his

cotton-gin, moved by water-power, a few miles from town, but time did

not permit. Besides these, there is also a cotton-gin in the town moved

by steam, which is owned by Senor Machado.

We were visited this afternoon by Dom Oliveiro, Dom Americo, Delegado of

Police, and Municipal Judge, and Senor José Leite Pintead, who proposed

that we should remain for an entertainment by the citizens, but our

motto being “duty before pleasure,” it could not be accepted.

Dr. Vas, of Campinas, called also to see us, being here on a trip of

recreation. He informs me that Settequéda has gone to Jahu, to purchase

a fazenda in that section, which is the first point of our exploration

of those lands.

The visit to the house of Senor Carlos was enjoyed by all very much. His

wife performs skilfully on the piano, and he sings admirably well. Beer

and champagne were served with other refreshments.

Sorocaba contains about five thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a

great mart for mules, there being eighty thousand sold here in a single

season. It is very healthy, and there is but one physician in the entire

district to meet all the needs of the people.

The city is located upon the Rio Sorocaba, from which it doubtless

derives its name.

There is a factory here of fancy whips, that is somewhat famous

throughout the province, and many of the ladies receive presents of

Sorocaba riding-whips from those who wish to pay them a compliment. The

structure of the whip is most elaborate, being plated with material of

different colors, and a part of the larger end interwoven with fine

pieces of the quills of the porcupine. The butt of the whip is covered

with silver, and has a silver chain with some ornament attached to it,

while there are two or three bands of silver on the stock.

At the same place will be found also fancy bridles, trimmed with silver;

belts of most fantastic style; girth of rare patterns; cruppers of every

variety, and saddle cloths, which are intended to be very ornamental on

the animal.

To appreciate the importance of this class of articles, it is requisite

to understand that many people here lay great stress upon their outfit

for riding, and the style differs materially from that which we have

been accustomed to see. The bridles are made in this establishment by

platting a number of thongs of raw-hide into a flat or round form, which

constitute the headstall and reins of the bridle, with sundry silver

rings at different points of each.

Where the reins unite at the hand there are two rings, secured together

by a small strap, and from each of these extends loose ends of some two

feet in length, which may be used for whipping or for securing the

animal. Martingales are very seldom used in this country.

TUESDAY, _December 26, 1865_.

Having exhausted the resources of the place by our observations, we left

Sorocaba at eight o’clock this morning, after being supplied with a cup

of coffee and some biscuits by our host.

Our passage through dreary campo lands for three leagues (twelve miles)

brought us to Campo Largo, which is a very comely little village of the

mud-built type. Proceeding from this some miles, we began to observe the

slopes on our right under cultivation, with a number of neat settlements

along the lower part of the hills, which continued for a considerable

distance on our course.

The rain fell heavily at one time, but we had the good fortune to have a

house for protection, having stopped to examine some mules.

We stopped for the night at Capello de Alto, and soon found that a pile

of pea vines had to be our bed, while there were no knives and forks to

eat with. A can of my tomatoes assisted in making out the grub, and with

collards, beans, farina and stewed chicken, we made a very substantial

repast, this being the only meal of the day.

My blanket and pillow, which had been of little use heretofore, came now

into requisition, and the others used their overcoats for bedding.

The proprietor of this establishment was evidently well satisfied with

the outfit of his house, and we all thought him the most

independent-looking personage we had met. He was attired in white cotton

pants or drawers, with a short shirt of the same material outside.

Having a large goatee, and long, uncombed hair, he cut a figure.

WEDNESDAY, _December 27, 1865_.

With the conviction that we could not fare worse elsewhere, we made an

early move from Capella de Alto, hoping to find a place for breakfast

within ten or twelve miles. But there was no suitable place to stop

until we reached Lamberi, sixteen miles distant, and having rode very

slowly, we got nothing to eat until two o’clock P. M.

Our road to-day lay through a hilly country, and though the soil was for

the most part thin, there was some very fair farming land. In several

places there were campos of waste land, growing only a rough grass and

the scrubby palm.

Quite a number of the native men of the country were seen about the

ranchos on the roadside, and the recruiting officers might find a good

harvest in this region. Many of the older men, and most of the women,

were affected with the goitre, that swelling of the glands of the neck

which is prevalent in the proximity of most of the serras. We observed

also, as we approached this place, quite a number of persons laboring

under the leprosy (Morfea) posted on the roadside, to ask alms of those

passing.

This miserable condition is a disease of the skin and other tissues,

which is supposed to result from the climate in connection with improper

diet; and is complicated in some instances with syphilis, or other

degenerated states of the system. The treatment of it has not heretofore

been attended with satisfactory results, but I learn that a vine has

been discovered which cures this terrible malady, and the efficacy of

this treatment will ere long be fully tested.

The subjects of this disorder are excluded from all association with

other persons, and are often found in tents or rude huts, in some

isolated spot, near the thoroughfares, so that they may gather a small

pittance from travellers, to purchase the means of subsistence. They

seem very grateful for even the smallest amount that may be given, and

we have usually thrown them a few dumps, but there was none in hand

to-day.

This being my forty-first birthday, I find myself at the middle period

of life with a crisis in my affairs which must influence the future of

myself and family very materially. To commence the world as it were anew

with six young children involves great responsibility to my wife and

myself; but I trust that all may be accomplished for our mutual welfare

and comfort, by the issue of my present investigations in this county.

The past is to be separated from the future with more distinctness than

any other periods of my existence have been, not only by the change of

events but by the alterations of our social relations; and the rending

of old ties and establishing of new associations makes the prospective

change of location a very serious consideration.

The circumstances in which we will be placed may not admit of those

advantages in rearing and educating our children which they would have

enjoyed under a different order of things; and I realize that many

duties as a man and parent devolve upon me now that differ much from

those of former years.

But being imbued with a deep-rooted sentiment of self-reliance, it is

still my privilege to exercise those energies of body and those

faculties of mind which God has given me, for promoting the welfare of

those dependent upon me.

THURSDAY, _December 28, 1865_.

Having taken a cup of coffee at the inn of mine host, Captain Marianno,

we set out at 5 o’clock this morning, and after a ride of twelve miles

over hills and plains, we reached the town of Itapetininga.[26] The

first four miles lay through an irregular matto, with numerous very

steep hills; but the remaining eight miles were through campos of gently

undulating lands. Upon these there were several groups of horses and a

few herds of cattle, but neither presented an appearance that would

recommend this region for stock-raising.

We stopped with Senor Lenente Coronel Manoel Affonso Pereira Chaves, and

though plain in his garb and manner, we were made to realize that we

were heartily welcomed, while he exhibited an intelligence and general

acquaintance with this region which promises to be very useful to us.

Upon conferring with a French engineer named Prudent, who has been

employed by the government in constructing a road from this place to

Sette Barros, on the Ribeira de Ignape, Mr. Bennaton concluded this

route would be impracticable, and determined to proceed to Paranapanema.

All the roads across the serra leading to the river are said to be in

very bad order, but it being the business of this engineer to put this

road in good order, it would be well for the authorities to investigate

the cause of failure, and perhaps it would be found that another man

would be more faithful to his charge.

The people here partake generally of the mental and physical

characteristics of the country, and there is very little taste displayed

in their dwellings or other houses.

A new theatre, which is not yet completed, is by far the neatest

structure in the town, while the church is ready to tumble down from age

and decay.

The plan of the place is similar to most of those seen, having a central

open space near the church, and the streets laid off elsewhere at right

angles and not usually more than thirty feet wide.

Most of the houses have but a single story, yet there are some

exceptions, and our host has quite a large two-story residence, which,

however, is not yet completed. Senor Chaves has presented me with a

history of the province of São Paulo, for which I feel very thankful;

and it will be made one of my text-books in learning the Portuguese

language.

There is a stream of water on one side of the town upon which there is a

saw-mill, and a cotton-gin is soon to be in operation also at the same

place.

Notwithstanding this facility for water-power, we witnessed the

stupendous folly of a small cotton-gin with eighteen saws in operation

by the force of a treadmill, worked by the leg-power of men; and a screw

was also seen at the same place worked by manual force of these bipeds.

In this apparatus there is a huge upright wheel of fifteen feet

diameter, in which a man is constantly walking, and yet not advancing;

and two other men are standing upon a platform outside of the rim of the

wheel so as to use their feet upon certain pegs of wood, and thus assist

the rotary motion. Four different bands and wheels without number are

used to communicate this motion to the gin, and all this when mules and

oxen are running idle about the town. A Portuguese is the owner of this

stupid contrivance.

FRIDAY, _December 29, 1865_.

Our host favored us with an early breakfast, and we set out at 8 o’clock

A. M. on the road leading to Paranapanema. Passing the Rio Itapetininga

we traversed campos varied with patches of matto for twenty miles, when

we stopped at a wayside inn kept by Senor José Ribeiro. The

configuration of the lands over which we passed was irregular, and in

some places extensive gullies or ravines had resulted from the washing

of the rains. Most of the soil of the campos in this region is of a

reddish aspect, while the matto lands are of a dark gray color, and

producing fair crops under cultivation. Corn was observed growing well,

and cotton is said to yield favorably.

The Irish potato was seen in a flourishing state at one place on the

road to-day, and we are informed that this vegetable grows successfully

in most parts of the country.

Those who plant cotton in this section are under the necessity of taking

it in the seed to the gins at Itapetininga, and we saw some being

carried on pack-mules in this form, a large basket being on each side.

At our stopping place we were informed that the proposed route from

Paranapanema to Xiririca was in wretched condition, and I suggested that

it would still be practicable to reach the Ribeira de Ignape at

Iporanga, by way of Faxina and Apiahy. This lead to a warm controversy

between Mr. Bennaton and myself as to undertaking that trip under all

the disadvantages presented, but it was finally concluded to continue

our present course.

SATURDAY, _December 30, 1865_.

Starting at 7 o’clock this morning we passed over a beautiful campo

country with a portion of fair matto land, and crossing the Rio

Paranapanema we reached the town of that name at 3 o’clock P. M., making

a distance of twenty-eight miles.

There were more horses and cattle seen to-day upon the green plains than

upon any previous portion of our route, and this presents a fine

prospect for raising stock of all kinds.

Small patches of good arable land, with a growth of trees, are scattered

at long intervals throughout these extended undulating campos, and there

are also trees growing along the small streams which meets all the

demands for fuel or for making enclosure about the houses.

Within four miles of the town there is a large fazenda in the open land

owned by Senor Francisco Antonio D’Aquiar e Castro, (son of the Marquiza

de Santos,) who resides at São Paulo.

Here we saw that manure renders these lands productive, and the best

specimen of cabbage seen in Brazil was growing in the garden, while