the working of machinery of various kinds, would be of much importance
to the progress of agriculture and the arts. The negro from the Southern
States could give negroes here a practical illustration in the use of
the plow, which would be worth more to Brazil than all the treatises on
agriculture which are likely to be written for twenty years; and in this
respect a few of these negroes would prove very advantageous.
It is evident, however, that Brazil regards the institution of slavery
as precarious, and we see already in the public prints allusions to
future emancipation, and measures suggested for its gradual
accomplishment, which are intended to prepare the public mind for this
event at no very distant day. Where this question is discussed among a
people whose interests are so largely involved in slavery as in this
country, it may be taken for granted that there is a sentiment of
opposition to it which will by piecemeal attain the end in view. The
overturning of slavery by the result of the war in the United States is
simply a sequence of abolitionism which has been at work for a series of
years in shaping the policy of the government; and it is found that the
same element is working industriously and too surely, for the final
consummation and realization of their views in the securing of equal
rights and free suffrage to the negro. I do not intend to convey the
idea that the institution of slavery cannot be discussed with safety to
the institution, for I hold that it rests upon a basis that is tenable
in a moral, political, and social point of view; yet the presentation of
this subject in the public prints indicates that there are many others
besides those who write holding similar doctrines.
The English element of the population in this country is antagonistic to
slavery, and is quietly instilling this principle, not simply by the
expression of opinions, but in some instances by aiding in the
liberation of slaves through contributions of funds for the purchase of
freedom, and contracting for the service of the party for a certain
period.
The minister informed us that no military service is exacted from
residents of Brazil who are not citizens, and that only the service of
home-guards is required from such foreigners as are naturalized.
No practicable measure has been devised for lessening the price of
private lands which may be desirable for emigrants; but public lands
will be put at the minimum price of twenty-two cents per acre, with the
privilege of five years to pay for it.[21]
I informed his excellency that no formal report of my observations, up
to this time, had been prepared, from the fact that it was my wish to
make a further examination of the country, and that a final report,
covering all, would be rendered when this tour was concluded.
On our way back to the hotel, the extensive and admirably arranged
tannery (cortuma) of Mello & Co., in São Christovão, was visited by the
party; and we were quite surprised to find so much taste and neatness
displayed in the surroundings of the place. The structures are not
simply substantial, but manifesting an architectural skill and
perfection of arrangement that is not often found in buildings for
similar purposes anywhere. The grounds are laid out artistically, and
ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, so as really to make this place
of business a pleasant resort.
The interior is provided with all the appliances for treating the hides,
from packing them down, while fresh, in salt, to dressing the leather
and finishing it off for use. There is a mill run by steam for grinding
the bark and the leaves of the manque bravo and the manque manse, which
furnish the astringent for making the tan ooze.
The small tree affording these materials grows very abundantly in the
swampy lands near the coast in various portions of this country, and the
principle of tannin is so strong in the leaves of the manque manse, that
it makes a black dye which is indelible. There are, also, other trees
growing in the forests here which furnish barks that are used for
tanning; one of which has been pointed out to me, and is found upon the
slopes of the serras in great profusion.
The vessels used in this establishment are huge reservoirs, made after
the style of a half-barrel, with a diameter of five feet and a depth of
three feet, into which a decoction of the astringents is conveyed, and
in this the hides are deposited for a time, and afterwards laid down
with astringents in the vats, to undergo the tanning process.
There are three sets of vats: the fresh water vats for soaking the
recent hides, the liming vats, and the tanning vats. These are all laid
in cement, and of course retaining all the fluids that are placed in
them. The dimensions are about six feet long, five feet deep, and four
feet wide. The fresh water is supplied by a system of pipes, and
regulated according to the demand.
The refuse angles of the hides, and also those portions of the skin
about the feet, with the hoofs, are converted into glue, and every thing
is economized with the greatest care and neatness, preventing any bad
smell.
The average period allowed for the action of the astringents upon the
hides is six months; and I was informed that some three thousand (3,000)
hides are taken out monthly, giving thus an annual yield of thirty-six
thousand (36,000) skins tanned here.
Notwithstanding the apparent system of this extensive establishment, I
understand that it has not proved very profitable to the proprietors;
and it may be that there is more style than efficiency in its
management.
There are three other large tanneries in the suburbs of the city; and,
from the specimens of leather examined, the art certainly seems to have
attained a high degree of advancement. Whether the materials ordinarily
used here are preferable to red oak bark, I have no means of
determining. In some sections, the logwood is a native growth, and it is
employed for tanning the heavy sole leather; but this is not regarded
the best quality of leather for any domestic use, and is generally
shipped to other parts where heavy shoes are more in demand.
Subsequent to the examination of the tannery, Dr. Shaw and myself
visited the butchering establishment, where the greatest portion of the
beef eaten in this little world of a city is slaughtered, and the
appliances are co-extensive with the immense demand. Some of the
machinery for securing and killing the animals would afford an
interesting item for description; but, having no taste for this species
of mechanism, I will pass it over with the simple mention, that it is
evidently well adapted to the object in view. The huge carcases that
were suspended in the building were of the well-defined varieties of
Pharaoh’s cattle, and it occurred to me that I should like to make my
_choice_ here of what I should eat.
There is no general meat-market in Rio as in most large cities; but
there are houses in all the different streets who deal in the flesh of
different kinds, thus supplying all demands. One of the noticeable
features connected with this butchering establishment is the immense
collection of the largest horns that have ever been produced in any
country. It would have afforded quite curious information to have
measured one of these tremendous developments; and, most assuredly, the
slang phrase of taking a horn never had its origin from the use of those
having such proportions as were exhibited here. The cattle from the
lower provinces of Brazil, that furnish many of the beeves for this
market, are very large, and have the most disproportionably large horns
that it has fallen to my lot to see upon the head of any animal, being,
thus, of huge size.
All the juices are extracted from the bones of the animals that may be
left on hand, or returned here for this purpose, and soap is produced
from it, while the substance of the bone is reduced to a charcoal that
commands a good price.
The entrails of the beeves are also cleaned of every portion of the
tallow, and they are afterwards used for making soap on the premises.
The negro women engaged in this operation of washing the intestines
present quite a graphic scene. Instead of using vessels of water, they
carry a lot of these filthy things into a canal of water which is
located between the butchering-house and the boiling establishment, and
the water being considerably above knee-deep, it behooves them to have
their clothing protected from getting wet at the expense of denuding
their entire lower extremities. Their skirts are tucked about their
waists, with a fold passing round between the thighs, which thus gives a
display of nature unadorned.
According to appointment, Mr. Mello called at my room this afternoon,
and Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, Mr. Brown and myself joined him, to make
a visit to the Botanical Garden, and also to call at his mother’s house
on the way.
Taking an outside seat on the hack, I enjoyed a good view of all the
scenery along the drive of five miles, and found the many fine
improvements and the beauties of nature on the mountain sides very
attractive. At several points the road lay close by the water’s edge,
and in one locality the wall which had been erected as a barrier for the
waves had been undermined, and had tumbled down, with a considerable
caving in of the land, reducing our passage to a narrow way. The lofty
peak of the Corcovado was towering above us, and the little rivulets of
water coursing down its sides glittered in the rays of the descending
sun, while here and there along its base were neat cottages or palatial
dwellings of those who sought refuge from the din and confusion as well
as the heat of the crowded city.
Going forward, we reached the garden, with its grand and gorgeous
colonnade of majestic palm trees, which is doubtless the most perfect
type of quiet dignity and simple beauty that the world can present. Much
has been done in rendering portions of these grounds artistically
attractive, and yet the beauties of art are overshadowed by the greater
beauty of nature presented in the forest that has been left upon the
back of the garden. From this hillside there is a stream of water
tumbling down in artificial cascades, and running on to form a beautiful
lake upon the plain below, all fringed with green.
This retired spot has been selected by the authorities for a collection
of rare specimens of trees, fruits and flowers, being hence styled the
Botanical Garden. If any one desires to study in a small compass, many
varieties of rarities, it may be done here advantageously, without a
guide, as the names of most of the unusual fruits are attached to the
trees by a metal card. The almond, the clove and the cinnamon tree are
among this interesting assortment.
The greatest taste has been displayed in laying out these extensive
grounds, and they have been most elaborately supplied with attractions,
making it quite a recreation to stroll leisurely and quietly through the
extended walks. No one should go to Rio without visiting this place, and
a hack takes persons from Rua Direita directly to the gate.
Upon our return we stopped with Senor Mello, and found his mother and
three sisters presenting more of the characteristics of our people than
is usual among the ladies of this country. Though none of them spoke
English, I found that my small acquisition in Portuguese availed to
communicate with them to a limited extent, and the kind disposition
manifested compensated for the lack of language to express their good
will towards us.
Another brother of the young ladies was also present who speaks English,
and with the aid of the two as interpreters, all got on very pleasantly
with our party during the call.
A nice repast, with beer, wine and brandy, was served in the
dining-room, and none of us having any difficulty in comprehending this
phase of the entertainment, all were prepared to appreciate it. With the
best wishes of the old lady, we took our leave of the household.
THURSDAY, _November 30, 1865_.
Going this morning to the office of Mr. C. Nathan for some letters he
proposed to furnish for our visit to Ignape and Cananea, he sent a young
man with us to the post-office to assist in examining the lists, and to
make inquiries for letters. None however were found, and I must be
resigned to the failure of letters by the last packet from the United
States.
Upon returning, Lieutenant Fiske, formerly connected with the
Confederate Navy, called to learn something of my observations upon the
country, and finding that he had concluded to return to the United
States, I presented no consideration calculated to change his
determination, nor did I feel disposed to develop my plans to him.
Mr. Malone came in for a short conference, in which he expressed his
decision to remain in the country with his family. He and his lady had
at one time a female school in Memphis, Tennessee, and they will make a
pleasant addition to the group of settlers wherever they may locate.
Shortly after these gentlemen left, Senor Street entered and informed me
that he was authorized by the Minister of Agriculture to accompany
myself, Dr. Shaw, and Major Meriwether to Conceicão and Cananea, and
that all would be arranged for us to go aboard of the Santa Maria
to-morrow.
Having been informed that it would be agreeable to one of the ministers
who comes from Minas to see us, Mr. Mello had undertaken to arrange for
a meeting, but he returned with the statement that his excellency would
be in conference with the other ministers and the Emperor to-day, so
that he could not see us for the present. As we leave early to-morrow,
our meeting with him must be deferred.
But Dr. Shaw has concluded to make a memorandum of matters desirable to
be known respecting that province, and get Mr. Mello to communicate with
this honorable gentleman from Minas, so that we may be informed at a
future day. One of the points of most interest to me is the facilities
for hiring negroes which are said to be afforded in some parts of Minas,
and it is desirable to know upon what terms they will allow them to go
to other sections of Brazil, for a term of years.
All the afternoon was spent in exploring the city of Rio with Dr. Shaw
and Major Meriwether, for the purchase of travelling-trunks, spurs, and
a thermometer; whereas, an application to some of our friends for the
number and street in which these things could be found would have cost
us but little trouble. Let others profit by this suggestion and save
time and labor.
Though I had many personal matters of business to look after, these
gentlemen desired my assistance, as they were totally unacquainted with
the language, and there being no other person to whom I could refer
them, it devolved upon me to accompany them. We spent a great deal of
time unnecessarily, and walked ourselves completely down.
Being very tired when I returned to my room at night, I lay down upon a
lounge to rest and did not awake until 11 o’clock. I then went down to
search for a cup of coffee, but found every place in the vicinity was
closed; and for once it occurred to me that coffee-houses might very
appropriately keep late hours. Most of the eating and drinking
establishments are shut up at 10 o’clock P. M. My fatigue and drowsy
mood found refuge in my bed for the rest of the night.
FRIDAY, _December 1, 1865_.
Having a reserved stock of clothing in a chest at No. 92 Rua Direita, I
selected this morning such articles as would be requisite for the
projected tour, and proceeded to pack my baggage at a late hour, so that
it was done in great haste. Thus, some things of much importance were
left in the room, but as Mr. Brown retains the same quarters, I trust he
may find them and deliver them to Mr. Carlos Nathan. If a word of
caution can avail to induce others to pack up all baggage on the night
previous to an anticipated journey, it will save them of all confusion
and enable them to employ the last moments before starting much more
profitably.
Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, and myself being in readiness, negroes were
employed to carry our trunks upon their heads to the wharf, and we then
availed ourselves of a row-boat to proceed to the Santa Maria, which lay
out some distance in the bay. The three persons, with all baggage, were
taken for one dollar by previous contract, as I have found that to be
the best mode of doing business with these boatmen.
Our friend Mr. Mello was found on the steamer, having accompanied some
friends aboard. He introduced us to Dr. Fogg, an American dentist, who
has resided in Rio for twenty years and realized a handsome income from
his business.
He retains his citizenship in the United States, as do most of those who
have come from there to this country, and none of them, so far as I have
heard, encourage our people to remove with their families to Brazil. We
place our own construction upon their statements, and prefer to think
and act independent of their advice.
SATURDAY, _December 2, 1865_.
The arrangements upon the Santa Maria all proved very satisfactory to
Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether; and the fare was in accordance with the
usual good table of this boat. A state-room with four berths was set
apart for Mr. Street in conjunction with us, making it a pleasant little
family party. Of course we enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and rose to find
ourselves approaching the city of Santos. Landing at 8 o’clock A. M., I
proceeded immediately to see my friend Mr. Wright in regard to the
measures for visiting the lands near Conceicão. Finding his breakfast at
hand I joined him and his family, and he afterwards came with me to see
the vicar (vigairo) of this district, who was acquainted with persons in
that section.
He manifested much interest in the proposed visit, and said that there
was a person in town from there with whom he would confer as to our
trip. The aspect of affairs was not very promising for an early move, as
this individual could not go to-day and did not know whether it would be
practicable to go to-morrow.
In the mean time the other two gentlemen, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether,
were quartered at the Hotel Milan, and I was a guest of Mr. Wright,
while Mr. Street proceeded to São Paulo to arrange with the President
for the means of defraying expenses on this voyage.
I dined at the house of Mr. Wright’s father-in-law, this being his
birthday, and that also of the Emperor, which made it the occasion for
quite a feast of good things.
After concluding the ceremonies of the table the members of the family
all shook hands with each other, this being a custom of constant
observance among them after dinner, even on ordinary occasions.[22]
Learning that there was a site for buildings with some lands attached,
upon the seaside, which were offered for sale, Mr. Wright went with us
to see the place. He supplied me with a horse, and the other two
gentlemen were supplied from the livery stable. A young man was sent by
the owner to show us the premises, and I observed that he was riding a
mare, which is the first time that one has been observed in service
anywhere in the country. In the stockgrowing region they are confined to
trading, and there seems to be an impression that they are not suited
for the saddle or for pack service, as the valuation of mares is much
below that of horses.
After riding five miles through the hot sun we found a location which
might, with a large outlay for improvements, become a very nice
residence for a family. It is at a point where the serra approaches the
water of the ocean, and thus getting the full benefit of the sea-breeze.
The property includes a portion of the level low land with a portion of
the elevated land, and there is a small clear stream of water running
down the slope, which has been used in former days for the machinery of
a sugar-mill. From the antiquated look of the relics, we might readily
suppose that this was the identical establishment erected by Martin
Affonso in 1533, to work the cane grown in this region from specimens
procured in the island of Madeira. There is now only left the stone
basement of the old building, but the stream still runs fresh and pure
water that might again be used for some mechanical purpose, or for other
domestic uses of a family.
SUNDAY, _December 3, 1865_.
We made a commencement of this day in the right direction, by going to
church before breakfast, but it was not with any reverential intentions.
We ascended the high hill, Monteserrate, to take a view of the large
building there located, and to enjoy the wide extended panorama to be
seen all around us. One old horse, that by some legerdemain had
accomplished the ascent of this lofty pinnacle, and a few goats, as full
of frolic and mischief as these animals usually are, constituted the
companions to the rather dreary-looking inmates of the church building.
It is only upon extraordinary occasions that this church is brought into
requisition, and during my former visit to the city there was an
illumination of the windows at night that presented a brilliant and
captivating view from the plain below. We found the ascent of the steep
and narrow winding way very fatiguing, which rendered a rest quite
acceptable upon reaching the summit, and it was well calculated to
recall the resting-place of the dove, from which this is named.
Though it was Sunday morning, and though the service was for the church,
several negroes were employed in carrying baskets of brick upon their
heads, from the base to the top of this mountain, and moved up without
any great inconvenience under their heavy burdens. How they undergo such
labor with such weights upon their heads is a mystery to me, but it
seems to be the favorite mode of transportation by the negroes here and
at Rio de Janeiro.
If these darkies, however, are strong in proportion to the aroma of
their persons, they ought to accomplish wonders, for the scent was
overpowering as they passed us.
Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether joined me to-day at dinner with Mr.
Wright, and concurred in my very favorable estimate of his accomplished
and modest wife.
It was ascertained to-day from Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira that
arrangements would be effected for us to leave here to-morrow morning in
company with him, to make the voyage to Conceicão. But from the various
modifications of the plan and the changes of time for leaving, I feel
considerable misgivings about setting out with this man, and have
requested Mr. Wright to let Mr. Clinton W. Jackson, the book-keeper in
his store, accompany us on this trip as interpreter. He has consented to
this, and upon returning to the hotel with a view to a final
understanding, our escort not meeting us at the hour fixed, Clinton was
under the necessity of going in search of him. He brought him round in a
short time, with an explanation of the delay, and we were told that
every thing was arranged for us to leave at five o’clock next morning in
a diligence to proceed to São Vincente. This is a distance of eight
miles, and thence other means are provided.
Being impressed here with the difficulty of procuring means of
transportation, I telegraphed Senor Street, and wrote a note to Mr.
Bennaton to arrange animals for proceeding on the 9th instant from São
Paulo.
MONDAY, _December 4, 1865_.
We made an early start from Santos in the diligence, accompanied by
Senor Ferreira, and reached São Vincente in good time for breakfast.
Here was the first settlement of civilized man in this region, Martin
Affonso having landed at the port near by, in 1532, and as a preliminary
step erected a fort to protect his people from the Indians who then held
possession of the country. There were various tribes of Indians
throughout the country, and through the intervention of João Ramalho, a
Portuguese who had been left upon this coast by a vessel early in that
century, a portion of these tribes became friendly to the newcomers, and
the town of São Vincente was established. A church and a school soon
sprung up here, and there was a prospect of an increasing population by
accessions from the mother country. But the hostile tribes of Indians
made frequent incursions, in which great outrages were committed, and
the sense of insecurity prevented any material advancement in the place.
The obstruction of the harbor ultimately by sand prevented the entrance
of vessels, and the present site of Santos became the port, and business
was transferred to that place.
The villa of São Vincente has perhaps been stationary for over a hundred
years as regards population; and it seems to be the residence of a lazy,
listless gang of very ordinary people. There is a large church and a
number of houses, perhaps in all, fifty, which form one short street.
The inn at which we got breakfast and a few shops do all the business.
Taking our carpet-bags in our hands we set out at 8 o’clock for the
canoe-landing, and crossed the Bertioga to the main land in about half
an hour. Again we proceeded on foot, with a rain falling that drenched
us thoroughly; and the ground being flat was soon covered everywhere
with water, so that walking was attended with much difficulty. It was
expected that a walk of three miles would take us to the beach, where a
cart was to be in waiting. But not finding any conveyance it became
necessary to travel on foot four miles farther. Here, however, we had
the firm sandy beach, and apart from the rain, the operation of walking
was not disagreeable.
At length the covered cart or diligence of this Senor Ferreira was
reached; and all hands being in good keeping for a lunch, the eatables
provided for us at Santos were drawn forth. With a cup of hot coffee
prepared by the inmates of the house where we stopped, and the bread
stuffed with sausages, all were refreshed for the progress in the cart.
This turnout for the transportation of persons along the beach is quite
a novelty, both in mode of construction and in its being recently built
for this express line. The wheels are made of hard wood and have no iron
tire; but the axles are of iron, and the mechanism by which the front
connects with the body is quite too complicated for description. The
body is panelled, with seats extending along each side within, after the
omnibus style. The cover is of cotton cloth which has been smeared with
oil, but not serving to exclude water, as we had ample opportunity to
testify. The three mules moved off at a fair gait under the frequent
lashings of our German postilion; but after travelling eight or ten
miles they became very dull, and their pace was so much slackened,
notwithstanding the German’s antidote, that the progress was suspended
for the jaded animals to recuperate their energies.
In the mean time Major Meriwether and I proceeded on foot, so as to
relieve the mules of our weight when they might resume the advance. It
was raining some and blowing considerably, but fortunately the wind came
upon our backs so as to assist our progress. Any one who has ever been
upon a sea-beach with a strong wind can fully appreciate the importance
of having it to favor your course. With this firm level beach and a very
light vehicle, with sails attached, it would have been quite practicable
to keep ahead of these slow movers. Indeed the idea of a windmill
attached to the wheels of a car upon a railway might be made available
for running even against the wind. The cogs upon a trunnel head might be
so adjusted as to work upon the cogs on the axles, giving them
progressive motion; though the wheel of revolution by the wind should be
turned to front or rear or to either side. If this suggestion could be
applied to the stern-wheel of a small propeller, might it not be used to
advantage in some circumstances? We know that windmills are used to draw
water, and why not for turning a wheel in water in like manner?
This thought is original and perhaps novel; though it may have very
little practical merit, let some one try the experiment and report the
result, as the outlay for materials will be but small.
After walking four or five miles we found upon the shore a boat-shelter
with a thatched roof, under which lay a large canoe. As this afforded
some protection from the rain and wind, it was thought best to stop here
and rest a while. A mulatto resident of the coast passed by our
resting-place and said it was but two leagues (eight miles) farther to
the village; but feeling inclined now to avail ourselves of the cart, we
were not in a hurry to move forward. Major Meriwether observed a mulatto
girl at some distance indulging her curiosity by looking at us, and
supposing there must be a residence near at hand I rose and started
towards her, when she left precipitately at a full run. Upon proceeding
in the direction of her retreat I came upon the house or rather the
shelter where the family resided, and asked for oranges and bananas, but
was told that none were to be had in these parts. The only thing seen
about the premises that could afford subsistence was a few stalks of
mandioca; and the interior of the establishment displayed a meagreness
of every thing that could contribute to comfort.
I learn that these people living along the coast depend chiefly upon
fish for a living, and consequently they don’t trouble themselves much
in cultivating the earth. Such things as are produced spontaneously or
with little labor afford a scanty addition to their supplies from the
water, and they care for nothing beside. One of these fellows had been
engaged to carry our luggage before reaching the station where we took
the cart, and he seemed nimble on the foot, with sufficient endurance,
but this job would doubtless satisfy him for a week.
Being rested we set out afoot again, leaving a notice upon the sand, “We
proceed,” and after walking two miles further, the cart was seen far to
the rear. Not intending to concede that we were particularly anxious to
ride, the march was continued until overtaken, which took us at least
one mile more on our way. Thus we travelled on foot not less than
fourteen or fifteen miles, and as the Major carried a considerable
quantity of fat, with new boots that did not yield to the pressure, his
feet were very much excoriated, or, as I put it, he had gum-boils on his
heels.
The mules still made very slow progress, and it began to be a matter of
concern whether they would take us to our destination; but a while after
dark our escort announced that we were approaching the place, with the
suggestion that a portion of the party should get out, and thus lighten
the load through the heavy sand after leaving the beach. Upon halting
opposite the store of our companion, several rockets illumined the dark
regions above us, and reverberated in the stillness of this retired
settlement, to signalize our arrival at Conceicão. After considerable
delay we were shown to a house having nothing but bedsteads to cheer our
vision, and told to make ourselves at home. A bottle of gin was the only
relief to the wet, cold and hungry travellers, and as none of us had any
particular fondness for this beverage, it was touched very lightly. I
did not hesitate to ask for a fire, nor did I scruple subsequently to
urge a more ample supply of fuel. But it was built upon an elevated
scaffold, in a small room without a chimney, so that it was difficult to
get any of the warmth of the fire, and the smoke pervaded every corner
of the apartment, so that it was almost intolerable.
After so long a time we were served with coffee, and the remnants of our
day’s lunch, which seemed to indicate that the resources of our chaperon
were rather slim. But we were still further impressed with this fact
when their flagmats and a single spread upon the hard boards of the
bedsteads were provided for our lodging. We certainly had bed and board
combined in this establishment, and a harder lot I never encountered in
all my rough-and-tumble progress through the world.
A servant was directed to report to us for supplying any wants we might
make known, but we were so nearly in want of every thing that it would
have been an endless undertaking to have specified those things
requisite for our comfort, so we determined that whatever a night may
bring forth will be seen with the light of another day, and waited for
something to turn up.
The reception afforded here by Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira differs
so entirely from the good cheer of a Brazilian welcome, such as I have
been accustomed to receive during my tour in the interior, that I have
thought it proper to make a record of the details as an exception to the
usual hospitable treatment extended to me by the people of this country.
This man is not without means, and though he has a family residence in
the villa, this unoccupied house has been set apart for our
accommodation, that we might not be disturbed by the children, who are
represented as dirty little brats.
TUESDAY, _December 5, 1865_.
I had resolved and re-resolved as I turned from side to side upon my
hard support for the night, that upon the first indications of light I
would assume the erect position, and my companion in affliction, Dr.
Shaw, complained aloud most bitterly, insisting that he could not remain
in this position until daylight. Our neighbors, Major Meriwether and Mr.
Jackson, who bunked together, murmured in like manner audibly of their
hard lot. After all of us had risen and dressed, a servant came to
inform us that in the first place coffee would be prepared for us, and
within two or three hours breakfast might be expected.
Under these circumstances I proposed a visit to the convent which stands
out in bold relief upon an elevated hill. As the morning was cloudy our
view was circumscribed, but sufficient to show that the plain of low
land upon which Conceicão stands extends to a considerable distance, and
is limited by the serra on all sides excepting next to the ocean.
The old building gives indications of decay in many parts, while in
others repairs are progressing to fit it for the approaching festa on
the 8th instant. This festival is superintended by Colonel Albuquerque,
of Santos, who has been elected as the Festeiro, and will have to expend
over a thousand dollars in the preparations for this huge folly.
We next called upon the Roman Catholic priest of this place, with a
letter of introduction from the vicar at Santos. He was found in an
uninviting apartment, and received us with that dry courtesy which makes
one feel that it is better to go away as soon as civility will permit.
Having disposed of a very substantial breakfast, we waited until 12
o’clock for the tide to assist us in ascending the Rio Conceicão, and
set out with Senor Ferreira in a canoe, made after the style of the
Mississippi dug-out. With a supply of farina and boiled jerked-beef to
meet our wants for subsistence, and some matting to keep us from contact
with ground at night, as well as to set upon in the canoe, we were
propelled by three able-bodied mulattoes, who used the paddles as if
they were trained to this service upon the water.
Upon embarking, we observed that the mouth of the river was very
shallow, but we were told by Senor Ferreira that at high tide a small
schooner could enter, and that he had a vessel which came in to load and
unload. There is a narrow neck of land separating the river from the
ocean, through which an artificial channel might be opened without a
great deal of labor, giving a much better entrance than across the
present rocky bar of the outlet to the sea. Should the resources of the
country warrant this proceeding, it looks as if it would be entirely
practicable. After passing the bar the river is deep, and well adapted
to navigation for eight or ten miles, up to the mouth of the Rio Prata,
and thence the last-named is said to be navigable for twelve miles.
The main channel of the Rio Conceicão is not fitted for navigation above
the mouth of this river, and but for the increase of water by the recent
rains, our canoe could not have ascended more than a few miles beyond
this point. Below, however, this river presents a fine body of water,
and is for the most part from ten to fifteen feet deep.
After ascending about twelve miles it began to rain, and going some
three miles further we stopped for the night at a rude shanty occupied
by a woman and five children. One son and one daughter were nearly
grown, but the whole presented a scene of slovenliness and abject misery
which made us realize that our lot was cast in even a worse place than
the night previous. But this time there was no alternative, and we took
it in the true spirit of wayfarers and explorers.
After eating pretty heartily of our cold victuals with hot coffee, I
indulged my curiosity by going into the end of the house where the
family were clustered around the small fire upon the dirt floor, and saw
in the imperturbable don’t-care expression of the woman that no
situation in life is so debased but that it affords satisfaction. While
that filthy creature sat on the ground smoking her pipe, with a few
small fish in a pan and a little sour and stinking farina in another
vessel as the only provision for the wants of her household, she
doubtless had less concern for the future than many who are surrounded
by the comforts of life. The idleness and the niggardliness of this
class of people here[23] presents a most despicable view of life, and
the worst feature of all is, that they seem entirely reconciled to this
mode of living. I felt a constant apprehension of vermin while in this
shanty, and my only consolation was, that “life as it is” could be seen
and studied in a phase that was not often presented for my observation.
When we were ready for sleep sundry doors and benches were brought into
use for spreading our mats; and, Dr. Shaw taking a place with me, the
irregularities of the door proved worse than last night.
WEDNESDAY, _December 6, 1865_.
After a night long to be remembered in the annals of rancho lodging, we
were glad to make an early rise, and all sung out with one accord, let
us go away, “vamos embora! vamos embora!” Our escort insisted that we
should remain until some coffee was prepared, and a pigeon, shot by
Major Meriwether on yesterday, being boiled at the same time, we enjoyed
a taste of it with some crackers, which constituted a very dainty
repast.
In the mean time one of the boys of the family was presented to Dr. Shaw
for prescription, and viewing his state as the result of the
impoverished state of the blood, he directed that some vinegar should be
put into a bottle with nails, and that he take fifteen drops of this
fluid three times a day. In the absence of other remedies this was a
good expedient, and could not perhaps be improved if the whole materia
medica were at hand.
The older son, who was nearly grown, hoping for some improvement of his
sanguiferous system, also applied to the Doctor for the exercise of his
skill.
On bringing him up Mr. Jackson, who was acting as interpreter,
suggested, that as the other was to take the vinegar, this fellow might
perhaps derive benefit from taking the nails, and he urged this more
especially as he was complaining of a stiff neck, that might be modified
by swallowing a few of these large iron spikes. The Doctor, however,
thought that a double dose of the vinegar would suffice, with the use of
a plunge bath and good scrubbing every morning. This latter clause might
have been recommended as a prophylactic to the whole family, with the
free use of soap, &c.
Getting into our dug-out the expedition was continued up the river, and,
after ascending five or six miles, the stream became shallow and very
swift in its course from the serra, which was now very near. Our canoe
was stopped at a flat, broad sandy beach, having large pebbles
intermixed with stones at one extremity, and we availed ourselves of the
latter to erect a small monument to the folly of the personage who
accompanied us on this voyage. He had, in compliance with our request to
see the lands suited for agricultural purposes, transported us upon
water to a point from which there was no egress, even on foot, and, in
the mean time, he was industriously occupied in delineating upon the
sand the course of the river, and its tributaries, with the crests of
the serras intervening, by which he undertook to illustrate the
desirableness of the lands for the settlement of our people. After
concluding his comments upon this sketch he manifested great anxiety to
know how we were pleased with the country. To this I returned the rather
equivocal answer, that all were satisfied with his drawing and
explanations, and were ready to return in the canoe to Conceicão.
In our descent of the river we stopped at one of the four settlements on
the margin, and a woman in great trepidation commenced hallooing, in a
tremulous voice, João! João! Efforts were made to quiet her fears by
Senor Ferreira, and to convince her that our mission was one entirely of
a pacific nature, but she did not seem satisfied until the man João came
to the house, and then another girl came out also to see the curious
strangers.
Here was seen perhaps one of the best samples of the lands of this
section, it being immediately at the foot of the serra, and thus
receiving the deposits of decayed vegetable matter and portions of soil
that are washed from its sides by the rains. Vegetation was quite
vigorous, and the ground that was intended for the growth of a crop was
preoccupied to a great extent with weeds and shrubbery, indicating a
good soil, but a want of industry and a want of the proper information
for its cultivation. We were shown a specimen of the sugar-cane growing
in the midst of rubbish from the fallen timber, and choked by a growth
of grass which still showed the adaptation for this crop, and all were
of the impression that, with judicious management, the cane would yield
profitably in this land.
The other articles which were planted, corn, beans, and sweet potatoes,
were growing under great disadvantages, but gave signs of sufficient
fertility in the soil to warrant better results. Upon inquiry as to the
growth of cotton, we were shown two stalks that had sprung up among the
brush, which gave very little promise of a yield, and no inference could
be drawn from such a specimen.
Some coffee trees of three years growth were seen upon this ground, but
their appearance was unfavorable, and it is most likely this crop would
prove unprofitable in this sea-coast region.
The soil of the serra being mixed with that of the flat land in this
particular locality, gives better results than could be obtained from
either taken separately, and it would doubtless make a good return for
labor bestowed in transferring soil from these slopes to the damp flat
land below.
It is due to the man João and his two sisters, to state that they were
neat and clean in their dress, and presented rather more of a genteel
appearance than is seen among the lower class of people in this country.
With their decent bearing, it was a matter of surprise that no more
skill or industry was manifested in the culture of the small piece of
land which was planted.
We got one of these women to prepare coffee for us, and with the remnant
of our cold victuals made a very respectable breakfast. Some of the
party had partaken so freely of sugar-cane, that it became a subject of
discussion as to the bill for damages that might be brought against the
consumers of the products of this man’s farm.
After descending two miles further, we stopped at a farm of Senor
Ferreira, where there is a building for a residence, including the
machinery for a rice-mill. Here we saw corn growing tolerably well, and
also rice and sugar-cane of fair quality; but the cultivation of the
land showed but little more care than at the other place. It is evident
that this property, which he desires to sell, has induced him to confine
his arrangements to an examination of the few points worthy of notice
along this river. But we saw enough here to convince us that the country
is not adapted to our purposes.
Mr. Jackson bought at this house two otter skins for fifty cents each,
the boy declining to take the price until we got some distance from the
house, when he came running after us with the skins, asking for the
money.
In going down the river several shots were fired with pistols at
water-birds, a ligarto, &c., but there was no execution done by any of
the party.
At one point on the margin of the river we saw several parties preparing
to embark in canoes, with stores of various kinds, intended to serve
them in visiting the villa during the approaching festival.
Following after us were two canoes, in each of which a woman was
assisting to paddle while standing up, and seemed to be accustomed to
this kind of service. Already a number of people from the surrounding
country have arrived with their supplies, bringing even their fuel in
the canoes, and they live in freedom from all restraint, after camp
style, during their sojourn at the place. These festas are religious
ceremonies, without much show of solemnity, in which mass is said, and
is followed by sky-rockets and fire-works of various kinds. Then comes
the banquet by the festeiro, and such other festivities as the occasion
may suggest, or the people desire for recreation.
After reaching the landing at Conceicão we assisted in drawing the huge
canoe from the water upon rollers of wood, and thus taking it upon the
beach beyond the ordinary rise of the water. Here lay quite a number of
similar vessels of these people awaiting their further movements upon
the water.
We brought down with us a supply of the palmetto, which is prepared by
stripping off the outer layer, until the central tender and white stem
alone remains. This is then chipped off from the end by a knife, and
boiled or stewed with a little fresh meat, and seasoned with pepper and
salt, making one of the best vegetables I have eaten in Brazil. The
portion used is about a yard long, presenting a green exterior, and
found at the top of the trunk of the palmetto, (a species of palm,) with
the leaves spreading out at its upper extremity. There are the sweet and
bitter, of which the latter is particularly good for the stomach.
THURSDAY, _December 7, 1865_.
It being understood that the cart was to be ready for us to start upon
our return at six o’clock this morning, we rose and got a cup of coffee
shortly after five o’clock a. m. But, on repairing to the cart, it was
found that the mules were not even caught from the open common in which
they had been grazing, and that it would be necessary to find them
before they could be harnessed for the trip.
As Senor Ferreira did not make his appearance, we sent a messenger for
him, and in the mean time, the head man of the trio who paddled the
canoe up the river presented his account. He was informed that this
would be settled, with any other claims which might be rendered, through
Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, for services received by our party
during this trip.
Up to this time, we had no means of knowing our true relations to this
personage, and were doubtful whether to consider ourselves the guests of
a gentleman who had taken charge of us at the request of his friend the
vicar at Santos, or were to regard this man as simply a business agent
to procure what might be required on our account.
This question was summarily solved by the presentation of an account, by
him, for all accommodations afforded us, as follows:
Carriage from Santos to São Vincente $4 00
Passage in canoes from São Vincente 2 00
Eating breakfast at São Vincente 2 00
Lunch and porterage on the way 3 00
Boating up and down river 5 00
Eating at Conceicão 5 00
Transportation on the beach 20 00
——————
$41 00[24]
In addition to this, the servants at the house were paid two dollars and
fifty cents for their attention; and thus it is hoped and believed that
all obligations are cancelled to this Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira,
of Conceicão.
It is proper to remark, that the cart and mules used for our
transportation on the beach were the property of this individual, and
that the turn out was kept for the purpose of making money out of the
passengers on this route along the beach.
Colonel Albuquerque, having arrived during the night, called to see us
while awaiting the slow movements of our postilion; and I was pleased to
find that he spoke some English, as did each of his three sons, who had
gone a voyage on the Onward, with Captain Clark, who married their
sister. The Colonel, thinking of our needs during the day, sent us a box
containing a chicken, some Dutch cheese, biscuits, grapes, and a bottle
of excellent port wine, which afforded a good repast on the beach.
Though our acquaintance was slight, and he was merely sojourning here
temporarily with his family, yet he extended that consideration to us
which has characterized the bearing of all Brazilian gentlemen
heretofore.
The Catholic priest had called to see us at our quarters, and gave us a
passing call this morning, when proceeding on some professional duty in
the vicinity of our rendezvous.
There is a large church besides the convent in this place. The buildings
are chiefly in one straight row, and a few for a short distance on the
opposite side, with a sorry and woe-be-gone population not exceeding
twenty-five or thirty families, doing but little business.
The mules being at length in readiness we made a start with a team of
four at 9 o’clock A. M., but only proceeded a short distance when the
double-tree in front was broken, and it became necessary to proceed with
but three mules. On reaching the beach the lead mule became unmanageable
and ran into the sea, taking the others and cart so far that upon the
return of the waves from the tide we were likely to go afloat, thus
facilitating our transportation rather more than was desirable.
This trouble was corrected for the future by placing a man, who
accompanied the driver, astride of the front mule, but the great
difficulty of slow movement was not so easily overcome, though he was
supplied with a pair of our spurs, and both these drivers plied the rod
most vigorously upon the animals.
I counted the number of blows inflicted upon one of these beasts within
five minutes at two different periods, and they averaged ten to the
minute; which for five hours, the term of the trip, would make the round
sum of three thousand lashes received by this mule.
Our postilions were German sailors and both spoke some English, so that
we could communicate with them. After an interruption in our voyage by
some derangement of the rigging, they both got into position for
advancing, and Alberta Deyer, who was on the driver’s seat, called out
to Lewis Thompson, who rode the front mule, “Now take your course south
by half west, and make sail—vamos.” With these two high-pressure
oscillating engines we made about three knots an hour; and for a time
all of us were quite amused at the extraordinary proceedings of these
fellows, but eventually it became a most serious matter, and nothing
could urge our lazy and jaded beasts out of a walk. I remonstrated with
the drivers not to inflict further punishment upon the animals, as the
blood was already to be seen in various parts, not only from the spurs
but from the heavy blows of the poles used by these athletic sons of the
ocean.
At length we reached the point where the road turns from the beach, and
it was questionable whether the mules could go any further; but it
continued to rain, and it was desirable to remain under cover as long as
any progress could be made in the cart.
We had gone however a very short distance when some mismanagement of our
helmsman brought the wheels on one side almost into a very deep ditch,
and the mule next to the ditch, with the instinct of self-preservation,
which is characteristic of that animal, leaped with its fore feet over
the tongue. There was imminent danger of being upset, and all hurried
out, with our baggage in our hands, determined to proceed on foot. A
bottle of rum had been got on the way, to counteract the soaking rain
upon the drivers, and giving them another drink they were left to
exercise their sailors’ ingenuity to avert shipwreck of their craft.
Walking nearly three miles we crossed the Bertioga again in a canoe, and
upon reaching São Vincente[25] hired horses for one dollar and a half
each, to ride eight miles, into Santos. It was very dark, and some of
the road very rough, but all got through safely.
Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether stopped at the hotel, while I assisted Mr.
Jackson in taking the horses to a pasture at Mr. Wright’s; and getting
supper we congratulated ourselves that the trip to Conceicão was ended.
FRIDAY, _December 8, 1865_.
Having spent the night with my friend Wright, I arose early and went to
the Hotel Milan, where my comrades were quartered, finding Senor Street
had returned from São Paulo. My telegram was received by him, but he
stated that it would be impracticable for him to proceed through the
country, and that Mr. N. Bennaton had gone to Rio de Janeiro, with the
expectation of returning on the 11th inst. A letter was found here from
him, proposing that we wait until he could join us, to make the tour
from São Paulo through the country. But in view of all the facts we
concluded to avail ourselves of the boat expected daily to proceed to
Cananea; and after examining the lands adjacent to the Ribeira de
Ignape, to return to this point, and go thence to São Paulo, to make the
trip to the country lying between the Tieté river and the serra to the
eastward.
We made a reconnoissance this morning of a lot of land in the city
belonging to Commendador Ferreira, which he proposes to sell. It extends
from the water at the lime-factory, in a solid oblong body, lying
between two streets.
The measurement made by stepping was five hundred and fifty (550) yards
in length and three hundred and fifteen (315) yards in breadth; with a
portion of irregular shape not measured, extending to the water. For
this it is understood that his price is ten thousand (10,000) dollars.
There is another portion of vacant land belonging to the same gentleman
located between that described and the water street on the front of the
city.
This measures four hundred (400) yards in length, two hundred and thirty
(230) yards wide at one end, and one hundred (100) yards or thereabouts
in width, at the other end. The breadth corresponds very nearly to the
greater measurement through half of the lot, and then slopes to that of
the smaller, making it somewhat irregular in shape. This has a water
front with a street, which is bounded by a rock wall as a barrier to the
tide, and here is afforded very desirable sites for building.
Should he be willing to include this with the sale of the other, it
would make a very valuable property for those who may wish a city
investment.
That Santos will improve greatly in a few years is confidently
anticipated, and lands within the city limits, such as these, must
increase in value.
Mr. Wright accompanied us in visiting the lime-factory already mentioned
as located at the edge of the water at the northern portion of the city;
in which the shells and deposits of a calcareous nature from the island
are worked up into a beautiful white lime. There is a small steam-engine
for working the ventilating apparatus, which acts upon the furnace, and
the fuel being placed beneath the mass of materials a heat is generated
which transforms the shell into the gray crude lime.
After this process is completed, the mass is removed to the open chamber
of the building, and parcel by parcel is sprinkled with water and placed
in a pile, which developes warmth so great that the hand cannot bear it,
thus producing the lime in ordinary use under the name of slacked lime.
It presents a fine aspect, with all the other indications of a good
quality of this article. There is no limestone near this place, and
hence the shell is made available for lime.
We also visited the tannery located in the suburbs of the city near the
margin of the coast on the north. It is by no means so neat as the one
described in Rio de Janeiro, and the want of any systematic disposition
of the refuse parts of the hides leaves them to create a stench about
the place which attracts a number of buzzards.
The articles used chiefly for astringents in the tanning process are the
same as observed in Rio; the leaf and bark of the manque manse and the
manque bravo, which grow promiscuously over the extensive tidewater
lowlands near this city. There is in connection with this tannery a rude
lime-factory, which produces from the burning of shell the lime required
for use at this place.
In examining the specimens of sole leather that were piled up under an
open shed, the process of tanning seemed to be very thorough; and though
there is not that care and attention bestowed which would insure the
best results, yet this business has proved profitable to the proprietor.
He has a small steamboat which is used for bringing in his materials for
tanning, his raw-hides from the city, and in delivering his leather for
shipment, or any other service connected with his operations. This
diminutive craft makes regular trips also to Cubitão, connecting with
the diligence line to São Paulo; and is frequently hired for excursions,
thus making a nice little income, besides serving all the purposes of
transportation for the tannery.
Mr. Wright tried to procure this small steamer for our party to visit
Perique to-morrow, but found that it was engaged, and that it could not
take us until Sunday.
Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether were invited by Mr. Wright to dine at his
house to-day, it being the birthday of his elder son, Billy. His
father-in-law, mother-in-law, and sister-in-law were also present on the
occasion; and we were all favorably impressed and very much pleased with
the performance on the piano by Mrs. Wright and her sister. Most of our
Southern songs are played by Mrs. Wright, but really there are so few of
them in keeping with the result of our struggle, that we feel but little
interest in hearing them now.
In going out upon the street after dark with Mr. Wright, we observed
there were some exercises at the Roman Catholic church; and upon
entering, we found that a number of persons, principally females, were
kneeling for mass; while vocal and instrumental music added interest to
the scene. It was a day of some festival.
As we returned we met on the pavement at the entrance of a house Senor
Manoel Pinto Soares; and soon afterwards his wife Donna Flora came down
prepared for a walk. As they were going in the same direction with us,
Mr. Wright devolved it upon me to escort the lady, and upon going
forward with her, Senor Manoel suggested that she take my arm, whereupon
I tendered her this assistance, which was accepted by her.
Though I could command but a meagre supply of the Portuguese language
for conversation, I arranged my words so as to be understood, and her
remarks were also comprehended, so that there was but little
embarrassment. My observation has now satisfied me that ladies in
refined society receive the same kind of attention from gentlemen as is
customary with us.
SATURDAY, _December 9, 1865_.
Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether spent the night with me at Mr. Wright’s,
and a cup of coffee being served to us very early we set out before 6
o’clock to the canoe of Senor Antonio Franco in company with Senor
Street, for a trip across the water.
Mr. Wright’s double-barrelled fine English gun was taken along by the
Major, and he had an opportunity of shooting at an alligator, (jacaré,)
but it made its escape into the water.
Upon approaching the site of Senor Bastos, the canoe entered a sort of
canal leading up into the land, and we then disembarked and walked a few
hundred yards over a level, low, marshy plain to the house. Rice was
seen upon one side presenting a healthy aspect; while on the other was a
garden-spot that has received more than the usual attention, yet the
vegetables did not look flourishing.
Vegetables do not usually grow well with us in any kind of soil without
some artificial stimulus; and the art of manuring is almost unknown to
these people, so that it is rare to see good vegetables.
The sugar-cane was also growing at a short distance from our path, but
is a small variety with short joints, having a red or purple aspect,
that is cultivated only for cachaça, (rum.) I infer from the specimen
seen that the land has not the requisite fertility to produce the best
cane.
The house upon this place is a large one-story building, having the rice
and sugar apparatus under the same roof, worked by water-power. Most of
the territory is mountainous and of little fertility; but the flat lands
with proper management might be rendered productive and profitable.
SUNDAY, _December 10, 1865_.
I acquiesced in the arrangement for taking a voyage in the steamer
to-day, though it was the Sabbath.
We visited the extensive establishment known here as Perique, in company
with the proprietor, Senor Valencia, some twenty miles distant from the
city of Santos.
The houses and grounds have been recently overhauled and renovated,
presenting an attractive combination of extensive buildings, with a
beautiful beach and delightful sea-breeze. The dwelling has eighteen
rooms, besides a large dining-saloon and ample corridors, presenting an
air of comfort that is rarely met with anywhere. There are also
outhouses suited for the quarters of laborers and for all other purposes
required on a fazenda.
We saw a portion of the land that would be well adapted to the
cultivation of any of the staples, but this was not of large extent; and
a great portion of it is low and marshy, so as not to suit any thing but
rice. The entire territory is represented as containing sixteen square
miles, and I should not think that more than two square miles is
sufficiently fertile to repay for cultivation, a part being unfitted for
use by reason of the serras and a part by the marsh.
This place and its present proprietor have been rendered somewhat famous
by a hostile collision on his part with the English marines under
Captain Croft, in 1850; who landed here under orders to suppress the
slave-trade conducted through this port of entry.
Senor Valencia collected thirty-seven negroes and thirteen whites, with
guns, and after being fired upon, they poured a volley into the ranks of
the marines, which caused them to return to their vessel. He states that
this body of troops had previously gone to another improved place on
this land and burned several houses; and that he supposed it to be their
purpose to burn these large buildings on the beach. He determined to
resist their further destruction of his property, and secreting this
force on the route by which he supposed the marines would approach the
house, an elevated position was taken by him where he could watch their
movements.
It was understood by his men that, upon a signal from him with a
cow-horn, they were to use their weapons against the invaders. As the
marines approached their position, one of the negroes becoming curious
to see what was going on, rose up to look and was immediately shot in
the head by the marines; whereupon, a blast from the horn induced them
to return the fire promptly and with effect. One man was known to have
been killed, and the signs of blood upon the spot and along the line of
retreat gave evidence of the fire of his domestic guard.
Senor Valencia was subsequently demanded by the English government, and
had to leave the country to avoid capture. He has spent most of the time
since in Montevideo, until his interests there being ruined by the
operations of the war with Paraguay, induced him to apply to the Emperor
of Brazil for permission to return. He came back in June of this year,
finding every thing about this place in disorder, and has endeavored to
bring it again in workings condition with a view to dispose of it. It
affords fine facilities for fishing, and might be made profitable in
supplying the Santos market.
MONDAY, _December 11, 1865_.
We visited the factory of brick and tile on the main land beyond the
bay, two miles distant from the city. It is the most complete, in all
appliances, which I have seen anywhere, having a steam-engine to work up
the mortar preparatory to moulding, and having a patent compressing
apparatus that gives a neat smooth surface to the brick while it imparts
solidity and firmness to the entire mass. The furnaces are constructed
of stone and faced with fireproof brick, having a general finish which
is rarely seen in such establishments.
I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of the tile-making. The
mortar was first spread upon a flat board by the hand of a stout negro
fellow, and then another passed a scraper over this, to remove the
superfluous layer, when a third turned it upon the convex mould which
gives it the proper shape, and bears it to a shelf, upon which it
remains until sufficiently dry to be put into the furnace for the action
of the fire.
In addition to the above-named articles there are also manufactured here
various household wares, such as water tanks, or jars of very large size
for keeping in public or private houses, earthen bottles shaped like
demijohns, bowls, stew-pans, and which are used in place of metal
vessels very generally.
The material used is a combination of the clay taken from the hillside
with the mud of the low land, and while neither separately would be well
adapted to the purpose, this mixture makes an excellent mortar for
moulding and burning. There is not a large quantity of brick or tile on
hand, but some of all the varieties of style and size, showing the
capacity of the establishment to meet any demand.
Upon inquiring the price of the brick I was told that for the smaller
size, nine inches by three inches, the cost was twenty-five dollars per
thousand; for the larger, twelve inches by four inches, thirty dollars
per thousand; and for flooring brick ten inches square, fifty dollars
per thousand. The last-named is a broad, square, thin tile brick with a
figure impressed upon it, which is decorative in fitting up the basement
of houses or paving fancy walks in a yard or open court. It is not very
likely that the above prices will encourage the builders of houses to
change from their old style of mud walls; and really if some of our
people, who know how to manufacture brick upon an economical scale,
would come here and enter largely into the business, it must prove very
profitable to them, while it would be a great advantage to those
erecting houses in Santos.
The compressing machines are of English make, under the patent of
Clayton & Co., and are worked by hand. The steam-engine for working up
the mortar is from the works of Maler & Co., located at Rio de Janeiro.
There is a canal connecting the factory with the bay which greatly
facilitates transportation. A tank or well in the yard under shelter
affords a supply of water for mixing the mortar, while there is a
fountain of pure and cool water coming from the mountain side through a
pipe into a large marble receiver in the open air.
Captain Buhlaw arrived in the city to-day from Cananea, and represents
the lands of superior quality, while the transportation by water is
available on all sides of the territory. He states that the soil is dark
and the trees are large, without much undergrowth of shrubbery.
TUESDAY, _December 12, 1865_.
Upon the arrival of the Santa Maria from Rio de Janeiro I went aboard
with Captain Balbi, who invited me to take a seat in his boat, and found
Mr. Bennaton there with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture to
accompany us on our tour from São Paulo across the country. He stated
that he could go now, and might not be able to accompany us if we
delayed to make the trip to Cananea by water. I asked him if he thought
it would be practicable to reach the country lying upon the tributaries
of the Ribeira de Ignape and belonging to Cananea by going across from
São Paulo upon mules; when he gave it as his opinion that we could make
the trip, and said that he would advise us to adopt that course.
As this concurred with the view I had when the telegram was sent to
Senor Street at São Paulo, and the boat upon which we expected to
proceed might be still further delayed, I advised Dr. Shaw and Major
Meriwether that it would be better to pursue the course above indicated.
It was accordingly arranged that Mr. Bennaton would go on to São Paulo
to-day and that we should go to-morrow, it being understood with Senor
Street that we would meet him at Xiririca, on the Ribeira de Ignape, so
that he might assist us in the examination of the country. As Senor
Street had already gone to the trouble to arrange for our visit by
steamer, he was not satisfied that we should abandon that plan, but with
the advice of Mr. Bennaton in favor of the other course, it was adopted.
Our baggage was sent by the transportation wagon of the diligence line
forthwith, and we were notified that seats would be provided for us on a
train of cars going out this afternoon to Moije station, where the cars
stop for the night.
Mr. Henderson, the gentlemanly superintendent, gave us a pass over the
road free of charge, and we were informed that the same would be
extended on returning. We found a number of officials connected with the
road on the train with us; also my friend, Mr. D. H. Sampson, and the
Rev. A. G. Simonton, brother-in-law of Rev. A. L. Blackford.
After a ride of twelve miles we stopped at a public house kept by a
German, who gave us an excellent dinner, with all the varieties of
drinks usual in the city hotels.
Beds were spread upon the floor for the accommodation of our party, and
we found every thing very comfortable.
We found here upon arrival Senor Martino, with a friend connected with
the law school in São Paulo. They had come down with their guns and
dogs, expecting to have a hunt in this vicinity; but it has been raining
so constantly as to prevent the sport. Both of these gentlemen have been
students of law for more than the usual term, but their fondness for the
woods with their dogs and guns has taken more of their attention than
their books. Senor Martino has now, however, graduated, and has
consequently the title of Dom, as every one here has who is permitted to
practise law. He has promised to send me a supply of indigo seed from
Minas, where he resides and this plant is grown extensively.
WEDNESDAY, _December 13, 1865_.
After breakfasting some of our party repaired to the clear, cold stream,
where a dam had been thrown up, and enjoyed a plunge bath, which was
quite bracing and salutary.
We were conveyed from the station to the foot of the serra in a light
open car, by a horse. We went in a rapid trot over the smooth parts of
the road, but suddenly we were notified that the engine was meeting us,
when our trella was stopped, and the horse disengaged so as to run it
back and avoid a collision. The engine, however, stopped before reaching
us, and we proceeded to the workshop on foot.
The entire party were next carried up the steep grade on the serra, of
one foot ascent in every ten feet, for one mile and a quarter, by the
action of a stationary engine of one hundred and sixty horse-power. We
then walked a similar distance, a land-slide having interrupted the
running of the inclined plane. Again we were drawn up the third section,
and walked up the fourth, where the track was torn away by the sliding
of the earth.
Much has been done here to overcome the natural difficulties presented
by this serra, but much more has yet to be done before any reliance can
be placed upon this line for transportation of freight, or as a highway
of travel for passengers. Not only must the earth or stone upon which
the track rests be secured against yielding, but the sides of the cuts
in the serra must not be liable to slide, and thus endanger the passage
of trains, or obstruct the road at various points.
There is a double track for one-half of the distance upon each of the
four inclined planes, and a balance car runs down at one end of the huge
wire cable, while the train is drawn up at the other extremity.
By sundry turns of this cable around the rims of large metal wheels
connected with the stationary engines, the friction and resistance is
such as to obviate slipping of the wire cable. This entire force is
brought to bear upon the freighted train in its ascent, while the
descending balance car keeps the cable tight, and exerts some influence
upon the ascending train of cars.
At each of the four stations one of these immense engines, having five
capacious and strong boilers, exerts its power in bringing up the
trains. But all this seems now very much like the lever of Archimedes,
with which he proposed to move the world if he could but secure a
fulcrum. The basis of efficient operation for the road being the
embankment upon which the track rests, it is indispensable that some
plan shall be adopted to render it secure, or the tremendous power of
the machinery can be of no avail.
At the close of our last walk we reached the level where the locomotive
is sufficient to move the train, and after a lunch of cheese, bread and
beer at a vende, (retail shop,) we took our seats in an open car and
whirled along at a rapid rate over the road to São Paulo.
The use of iron stools of a concavo-convex shape as supports for the
rail, instead of wooden cross-ties, is adopted here, but an accident
from the breaking of one leads to the inference that they are unsafe.
There was one point upon the track at which two cars, loaded with dirt,
discharged their cargo with remarkable despatch, by dropping the sides,
that were attached by hinges, and then the negroes used their shovels to
conclude the work.
We had on the train with us Mr. J. J. Auburtin, the general
superintendent of the road; Mr. Henderson, superintendent of the working
operations; Mr. Fox, president engineer; Mr. Hutchins, secretary to
chief engineer; and Mr. Jesters, traffic agent. All the business offices
are in the city of São Paulo, and the chief work-shops are located there
also. The chief engineer of the company resides in England, and has his
representative here looking after the business.
Upon reaching the Hotel da Europa, we met Mr. Bennaton, who informed us
that arrangements were progressing for our trip; but it is most likely
we may be detained several days, and we must practise that Brazilian
virtue, patience.
Calling upon Mr. Blackford and lady during the evening, I found their
house filled with ministers of the gospel, who are here with a view to
organize a Presbytery, to exercise discipline among those who have
become members of the Presbyterian church in this section, and to ordain
a converted Catholic priest, who has been assisting in missionary work.
While the people here profess to be tolerant of other religions, some of
the former enactments in regard to seats in the councils of state, and
in regard to marriage, are calculated to discourage emigration, but it
is expected that these things may be changed ere long.
THURSDAY, _December 14, 1865_.
The indications of delay here are evident, from all that can be learned
to-day, and we feel that suspense which is natural to those earnestly
desiring to accomplish an object.
I accompanied Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether to purchase an outfit of
water-proof overcoats and leggins, which cost each of them twenty-two
dollars and fifty cents, but they are now well provided against the
rainy season.
This period of almost constant rain is now upon us, and lasts usually
two or three months in this latitude. During the other nine months of
the year, rain falls but seldom in any considerable quantity, and during
June, July, and August, is regarded the dry season of the year. These
being the coolest months, the relations of the wet and dry season to
temperature differs from what is observed in the United States. The
winter with us is usually the period of most rain; but there is not so
marked a difference, as is remarked in Brazil, between the rainy and dry
seasons of the year. I anticipate less inconvenience in travelling from
the rain than would be experienced from the continuous hot sun during
the day; and learning that the mornings are for the most part free from
rain, we can do most of our riding early in the day.
A most important item to the traveller is to have along with him, at all
times, a change of under-clothing, and for this object, a water-proof
valise or satchel is very convenient. In this, his comb, tooth-brush,
and a pair of slippers can also be kept at hand, though he may be
temporarily separated from his baggage.
FRIDAY, _December 15, 1865_.
Mr. Bennaton now thinks that matters will be arranged so that we can
leave day after to-morrow, but while we do not wish to retard any of the
preparations, it is not expected that we will leave until Monday. None
of us approve of travelling on the Sabbath, when it can be avoided.
Mr. Blackford called to see us this evening, and remonstrated warmly
against Sunday travelling, but more especially against setting out on a
business tour upon the Sabbath, when we could so easily wait for another
day. He insisted that no good would come of business done on the
Sabbath, and said if we did not expect to observe the sanctity of the
Sabbath in this country, we had better return at once to our families,
as he felt assured they would not prosper here, without keeping the
Sabbath day holy to the Lord, and observing it as a day of rest from
labor.
Meeting Dom Prates upon the street this afternoon, he informed me that
he has a body of land on the Ribeira de Ignape, of which every alternate
lot will be given to families who will locate on them.
SATURDAY, _December 16, 1865_.
Having arranged to meet Dom Bernardo Gavião this morning, we proceeded
to his office, with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter. Upon inquiring the
terms upon which he would dispose of the whole, or a part of the
extensive territory of Cambuy, he stated that he would take one hundred
and twenty-five thousand ($125,000) dollars for the entire property.
Estimating it at twelve square leagues, the cost will be something over
one ($1) dollar per acre, and believing that there is not over four
square leagues which is well adapted to cultivation, it puts the price
over three dollars an acre for the productive land. He couples the
proposition with an offer to hire two hundred and forty negroes for a
series of years, at the annual rate of twelve thousand five hundred
($12,500) dollars; the first payment to be made at the end of the second
year, and without interest, but subsequent payments at the close of each
year. He informs us that there are one hundred and twenty men, ninety
women, and thirty children. It will be noted that the proportion of men
is large to that of the women, and the proportion of children very
small, which is to be observed in most gangs of negroes in Brazil; the
former owing to larger importations of males from Africa, and the latter
from want of proper care of women and their offspring. These negroes are
to be fed, clothed, and receive medical treatment, at the expense of the
party employing them; while the owner loses the time of disability for
labor, by running away, or, in the event of death, a pro rata reduction
being made.
SUNDAY, _December 17, 1865_.
Desiring some definite information in regard to the missionary
operations of the Presbyterian church in Brazil, the following was
handed to me, for such use as I might think proper.
SÃO PAULO, _16 December, 1865_.