My personal relations to this gentleman inspired a sort of parental
regard for him, which makes me cherish this kind memento more perhaps
than others of the company, and I have therefore preserved the original,
as a souvenir of his friendship and generosity. We all desired to have a
likeness of our good friend, by which we might be constantly reminded of
that genial expression which springs from his pure heart; but the
photographists in this section are very poorly provided with materials,
and could not take the impression.
The high appreciation which all of us have for the character of Senor
Joaquim Lorenço is only in keeping with the estimate in which he is held
by all with whom we have conversed, in the vicinity of Araraquara; and
he is, with one accord, regarded as the leading spirit of all that
country. His title of Lieutenant-Colonel is by virtue of his position as
commandant of the national guard of the district, and from his admirable
management for our tour, I should expect him to conduct a campaign very
successfully. All was done quietly by him, and in his discipline upon
his premises no loud word or confusion ever occurred, but every thing
progressed with great regularity.
FRIDAY, _November 10, 1865_.
Leaving the house of our kind host, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, we
descended the Serra de Brotas by a most precipitous route, differing
from that of our ascent, which was very steep, in being likewise very
rugged and narrow. It was not desirable to remain upon our mules in
making this passage down a steep, irregular, and rocky road, so that all
but one of the party dismounted, and lead our animals. The father of our
host, Senor José Venancio Carneiro, having spent the night with us, they
both accompanied us this morning, and upon arriving at the villa of
Brotas we found that the elder gentleman had arranged for us to take
refreshments at his house, where we had dined in passing through. The
table was provided with very fine canned peaches and other fruits, while
wine and coffee were also served, thus tempting us to eat, though we had
so recently taken a hearty breakfast where we spent the night.
How we parted finally with our true-hearted friend, Senor Joaquim
Lorenço Correa, which was quite a touching scene, in the manifestation
of deep feeling with him and with all of us.
In company with Senor Domingos we proceeded sixteen miles, for the most
part through a dreary campo, to the fazenda of Senor Francisco Antonio
Macede, who is a son-in-law of Senor José Venancio, and by whom we were
joined at this place in the course of the evening after our arrival.
Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was
pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two
pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had
the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.
Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed
with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of domestic manufacture, which
was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was
made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of
the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were
rendered, as at this place.
The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day,
and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was
slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of
rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes
now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we
find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome,
the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched
than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp
surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the
day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the
Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this
latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to
travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement
of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during
the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and
beast.
A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges,
upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this
place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the
inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock,
and all had to rally their appetites again.
SATURDAY, _November 11, 1865_.
After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the
fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law,
Senor José Venancio.
This old gentleman seems determined to make amends for his absence from
home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of
introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to
aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the
event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of
country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free
of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his
own or other parties.
My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a
large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of,
but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery
of the campo.
We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and
clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto
virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only
relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda
of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.
Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas,
that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having
dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party
concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came
with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable
fall of rain.
We stopped at the house of Dr. J. H. Gattiker, a Swiss physician, and in
his absence were courteously received and entertained by his dignified
and yet affable lady.
SUNDAY, _November 12, 1865_.
With our wants of every kind provided for in the best style, the beds
were especially neat, having damask covers lined with silk, and the
pillow-cases trimmed with fringe of the most tasteful pattern. The
towels were also of fine material, and each end trimmed with fringe.
Before making our toilet, coffee was served at our rooms in those
beautiful china cups which are found generally in the houses of the
better class of people. When I left my room, the Doctor was found in the
parlor waiting to receive us; and, knowing that any thing from the
United States, just now, would interest us, he went out and procured
some copies of the Presbyterian newspaper, from the house of the Rev.
Mr. Snyder, which were particularly appropriate for the day. I called,
subsequently, and saw Mrs. Snyder; but, not finding Mr. Snyder at home,
her tender of hospitality was declined for the present time.
General Wood and the rest of the party arrived in time to join us at a
very late breakfast, and it was really a feast of fat things, in great
variety and much good taste. I was seated at one end of the table, with
the lady of the house upon my left hand, and I made such use of my
limited stock of Portuguese as was necessary in communicating with her.
Some of our companions proposed to go to Ybicaba to-day, while the
General and myself, with Mr. Snell, as interpreter, concluded to remain
quietly here; and I wrote a lengthy communication for my friends, and
also a letter to my wife, as appropriate Sunday-work.
All of us dined together; and the most bountiful supply was arranged in
the greatest elegance upon the extended table, with a huge, fat turkey
dressed in the best style, from the carving of which the General
relieved our hostess.
MONDAY, _November 13, 1865_.
Our kind hostess furnished us with a cup of most excellent chocolate,
before breakfast, this morning, though coffee had already been served
prior to leaving our rooms. The General said that all his needs were
supplied by this nutritious drink, and becoming very impatient at the
delay of breakfast, proposed to go without waiting for it. But Dr.
Gattiker would not hear of our going without breakfast; and, indeed,
after breakfast, we had great difficulty in getting off from him, as he
insisted we must spend the day at his house. I was favored with
photographs of the Doctor and his wife, which will be treasured up in
the collection of my friends in Brazil—she being a native of the
country.
Upon starting, it was found that my mule was suffering from the loss of
a shoe, and it became necessary for me to stop on the road, that he
might have it replaced. General Wood and Mr. Snell, in the mean time,
adopted my suggestion, and proceeded to Ybicaba. As the camaradas were
behind, I awaited their arrival, and, taking one of their mules, he
remained to bring mine when it was shod.
I made a fruitless attempt to advance upon this lazy and perverse mule,
but at length, in despair, stopped upon the roadside, and dismounted to
await the arrival of my own. Here, in the wild forest, it occurred to me
that a tiger or other wild beast might attack me, but I congratulated
myself that I could get out of the way faster on foot than upon this
stupid animal, and it might be that the carnivorous propensity of the
wild occupant of the woods would be satisfied with the tough carcass of
the old mule, which I would leave to his tender mercies.
I thought we had started with some of the most shabby animals that the
province could afford, but some of those which were left at Ybicaba by
General Wood’s party were even worse than the two left by us. These
animals were such as had been in use for the military service, and were
turned out upon such pasturage as the lands around the city of São Paulo
would furnish, which, from notice under a former date, may be inferred
would not have the effect of improving their flesh or strength. Of such
as the President had, gave he unto us; and we were thankful for the
small service they rendered in getting us to places where we were
generously supplied by our friends with better animals.
A few of the public animals were retained for the trip by General Wood’s
party, and we kept two mules in service that were improved by the
regular feeding, with comparatively light work under our pack-saddle.
As we are booked to remain as the guests of Senor Vergueiro to-morrow,
it is expected that some of the camaradas will proceed with this drove
of emaciated horses and mules in advance, so as to allow them to move
leisurely. Some of them are scarcely able to drag their bare bones
along, and they will accordingly go in light-moving order, without
incumbrance of any sort.
The entire number of horses and mules belonging to both parties amounts
to thirty-three, and there are about one-half the number belonging to
parties at different points on the road, who had furnished them for the
expedition, while perhaps there are a half dozen of the public animals
in service, leaving ten of the nondescripts going loose.
TUESDAY, _November 14, 1865_.
The following items are furnished by Senor José Vergueiro as the
standard valuation of articles in this section:
HORSES. PRICES.
Tamed and broken $25.00 to $40.00
Untamed 20.00 to 25.00
Mares 4.00 to 6.00
Stallions same as castrated.
Jacks 50.00 to 100.00
MULES. PRICES.
Broken for pack-mules $30.00 to $35.00
Riding 40.00 to 50.00
Untamed, by the lot 12.50 to 15.00
Pack-saddles 10.00
Ox-hides, (sun-dried) 1.00 to 2.50
Oxen for work, (pair) 30.00 to 40.00
HOGS. PRICES.
For fattening, (each) $4.00 to $5.00
Fattened (neat) per pound 4½ to 5 cents.
Breeders, (each) $3.00 to $4.00
Pigs, (according to stock) 1.00 to 7.00
Sheep, (not much grown) 75 to 1.00
Goats 1.00 to 1.50
Cows, (milch, by lot) 7.00 to 7.50
Cows, (milking, single) 12.50 to 15.00
Calves 2.50
Bulls, (according to breed) 30.00 to 50.00
Bullocks, (not fattened) 10.00 to 11.00
Bullocks, (fattened) 12.50 to 20.00
NEGROES. PRICES.
Men, women and children together $500.00 to $750.00
Men separately 900.00 to 1000.00
Hire of men and women from Minas 40.00 to 60.00
The above with feed, clothing and medical attention by year.
Corn, (now 50 cents to 75 cents,) average per
bushel 25
Beans, (now $3.00 to $5.00,) average per bush. 75 to 1.00
Rice, (now $4.00 to $5.00,) „ „ „ 75 to 1.25
Cotton in seed, per hundred pounds 3.75 to 4.00
Coffee, (retail in country,) per pound 8 to 12
Leather, per side 1.50 to 2.50
[20]Hats, (home-made,) of fur, $2.00 to $2.50; of wool, $1.00 to
$1.50.
Dom João Guilheoma D’Aguier Whitaker, Juiz de Direita, da Comarca de São
João de Rio Claro, informs us that he has been directed by his family
connection and friends to put at the service of our people, when they
may arrive at Santos, a sufficient number of mules to transport them and
their effects.
Senor Vergueiro has furnished General Wood with thirty-six different
varieties of wood, which are to be found in the district of Lemaire, and
suited to different domestic purposes, of which the names are given
below.
Arindiaba, (very durable.)
Cabrinba, (for building.)
Yssé, (for building.)
Saguaragy, (for building.)
Sucupyra, (for building.)
Tayúba, (for building.)
Assaçafrá, (for building.)
Canella preta, (for building.)
Jacoranda, (rose wood.)
Cavyúna, (for building.)
Gualrynoyra, (for building.)
Jataby, (for building.)
Cajarâna, (for building.)
Araribá, (for fencing.)
Guaranta, (splits well for rails.)
Peroba, (fine canoes.)
Peroba-Merim, (for building.)
Guarabytá, (for building.)
Cedro, (door and window shutters.)
Jiquitiba, (for building.)
Timbo, (for building.)
Gleo, (valuable fruit.)
Guatambu, (for fencing.)
Açoita-Carallos, (for building.)
Caxétas, (for building.)
Vatinga, (for building.)
Alecryser, (for building.)
Chimbé, (for fencing.)
Batáia, (canoes.)
Maria Preta, (for building.)
Figueira, (for building.)
Jugá, (for building.)
Guabiroba, (for building.)
Guarahyúba, (for fencing.)
Pitanga, (for fencing.)
Jaboticaba, (delicious fruit.)
These specimens of wood represent the useful growths of timber in this
district of the province of São Paulo, and there are likewise a great
number of palm trees, different qualities of cane, (bamboo and
taqueira,) with a variety of vines, of which the sipo is especially
valuable for cordage and other uses.
The guaranta is the best material for fencing, as it splits readily and
is very durable. The hardness of most of the wood in this country is the
most serious obstacle to using it in the form of plank.
Specimens of the following-named grasses have likewise been furnished to
General Wood:
Gramminha.
Gramminha fina.
Pé de galinha.
Passuam.
Cassium Gerdura.
Gramma Naturæ.
Gramma larga.
Cassium Milham.*
Cassium Angelinha.*
Cassium de Angola.*
Those marked thus * are suitable for cutting and curing as hay, and we
find this fazendeiro has a considerable amount dried and stored away for
use as may be required.
As there is no frost here to destroy the grass, and animals can run upon
the pastures throughout the year, very few persons think it necessary to
cure hay, yet these high grasses are cut and fed to milch cows, or to
horses that are not put out to graze, and thus they are very useful.
During the cooler months of winter, and when there is a protracted
drought in the warm season, none of the grasses grow so luxuriantly, and
the grazing is of course much impaired, so that it is very convenient to
lay up a supply of hay, as is done at this place during the season of
full development, and retain it to meet emergencies.
This region of country is more particularly adapted to agricultural
operations, and makes a better return under cultivation than to be used
for pasturage, yet grass is produced of the best quality when it is
allowed to grow naturally or the land is planted artificially with
either the seed or the radicals of the different grasses. One of the
varieties of cassium is propagated entirely by transplanting the roots,
from which it extends.
Combining a notice of the habits and customs of the people with a record
of their material resources, it is my privilege to note the
entertainment given us to-day by our host. Quite a number of his friends
were invited to join us at dinner, and the preparations for the feast
were most elaborate. There were twenty-six persons seated at the table,
including the lady of the house, whose quiet dignity gave a grace to the
elegant style in which all was arranged. Our party were seated in
juxtaposition to each other, General Wood being in the middle, and
having Dr. Warne on his left hand and myself on his right. On the
opposite side to us was seated Mr. Henry Whitaker, who was to act as
interpreter. From this portion of the table there extended at right
angles two wings, at which the other guests were seated, Senor Vergueiro
being at the end of one of the wings and Dom Whitaker, Juiz Direita, at
the end of the other. Senhora was seated at one of the angles adjoining
the portion of the table occupied by our party, and thus as will be
perceived entirely separated from her husband.
A description of the numerous dishes, and the many varieties of liquors
and wines, is out of my power, as it was far more extensive than we are
accustomed to see at a dining.
Early in the progress of the substantial part of the dinner, Senor
Vergueiro arose and addressed those present as to his object in thus
assembling his fellow-citizens with us around his table, closing with a
sentiment complimentary to all our party, and mentioning by name General
Wood and myself. To this the General responded at considerable length,
closing with a toast to our host and hostess, when I made some remarks
and toasted the authorities of Brazil, and the counties of Rio Claro and
Lemeire; Dr. Warne responded to a sentiment from Judge Whitaker, and
gave a toast, and, in like manner, Mr. Kernan being called out, made a
few remarks and gave a toast.
All the remarks in either language were interpreted by Mr. Whitaker as
the speakers proceeded, each making a pause between sentences, and thus
all was mutually understood, giving the whole proceedings a fine effect.
A large proportion of the Brazilian guests joined in the expression of
sentiments welcoming our people to this province, and manifesting much
interest in the result.
After spending an hour at the table Mrs. Vergueiro retired, much after
the style with us, and the festivities were kept up for three hours,
amidst the most vociferous cheering and singing. This reminded me very
much of some of the public dinners of our associations or societies, and
we could scarcely realize that it was merely a collection of gentlemen
at a private house.
When the scenes at the table were ended, by a toast to the Emperor, the
company went to the saloon adjoining the dining-room, and engaged during
the evening in various stag dances and comic plays. Even blindman’s buff
was joined in by the parish priest, who was in attendance, and seemed to
enjoy the sports hugely. Some of the recreations consisted in rehearsals
of the pastimes of the lower order of people (called here caipira) when
they have gatherings in the country, such as we would style a frolic or
break-down.
WEDNESDAY, _November 15, 1865_.
A large portion of the company having spent the night under the
hospitable roof of our host, they left early this morning for their
homes, and we were served with an early breakfast preparatory to our
renewing our travel. Arriving at the villa of Lemeira, we stopped a
short time at the house of Captain Lonço Franco, who took such a fancy
to his brother larador (farmer) Mr. Brown, that he presented him with a
likeness of his wife. Ale, wine and brandy were produced for the
company, but we found much difficulty here, as elsewhere, in procuring
water to drink, from the fact that no pails or buckets for holding water
are ever kept in their houses. The article ordinarily used is a sort of
earthenware jug or large bottle, but this is frequently not supplied
with water, and it consequently has to be sent off to be filled when
water is desired.
So far as I have observed there are no wells in this country, and upon
inquiring why they were not used, the statement was made that there was
no need for them, as there is an abundance of fresh running water to be
found everywhere. The proximity to a spring seems to be a matter of
little moment, and consequently the water is not often found very cool.
Indeed, ice seems to be in very little demand in the cities, as there
are machines for its manufacture at several points, which are not
employed, and yet this article sells in Rio de Janeiro for ten cents per
pound by retail.
We proceeded to the inn at the bridge of Atibaia for dinner, and
afterwards to another inn at Quilambo, where our party spent the night.
THURSDAY, _November 16, 1865_.
Mr. Snell having gone forward last night to Campinas, where he resides,
was requested to advise Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral, alias
Settequéda, that we would come to his house this morning for breakfast.
Moving accordingly at an early hour, we rode sixteen miles, and upon
entering the city, we met our friend, Senor Joaquim, with a party of
other gentlemen on horseback, who came out to escort us to his house in
Campinas.
It is eminently becoming that honor should be given where it belongs,
and therefore, as a matter of history, I will state that General W. W.
W. Wood was the object and prime cause of these demonstrations made at
different points upon our route. Prior to joining him, I saw nothing of
this kind of display on the part of the people, and pursued a very quiet
business-like course in my associations with the inhabitants of the
different sections visited. As there is nothing else to occupy my
attention in passing again over the road previously travelled, it is
very satisfactory to witness these manifestations in behalf of the
representative of seven States.
We found every thing in complete order upon our arrival, and rooms with
the neatest possible outfit for each of us. After washing and getting a
cup of coffee breakfast was announced, and the ladies of the house were
met in the dining-room, when I advanced and shook hands as with old
friends. Senhora seemed to take quite an interest in my small
acquisitions in Portuguese since my previous visit to the family, and I
was encouraged to use all in my power, talking for myself and a little
likewise for the General and others seated near me.
Dr. Reinhardt and Dr. Vaz, practitioners of the city, were met here, and
the former coming some years ago from the United States, speaks our
language fluently; while the latter uses some words and sentences of
English, but slowly and imperfectly. I attempted to talk Portuguese to
him while he responded in English, and we managed to communicate most
matters that either desired to speak. As there were quite a number of
the gentlemen of the city invited to breakfast with us, I made the
acquaintance of some of the best people in the place, and renewed my
acquaintance with Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa, who is not so demure as
he seemed upon my former meeting with him.
He accompanied Dr. Vaz, Dr. Warne, and myself to his city residence, for
the purpose of eating jaboticabas; and while I enjoyed the fruit, I was
much more favorably impressed with his bearing than previously. We saw
there, also, a specimen of the small stingless bee of this country,
which makes its receptacle for the honey in the hollow of a tree or the
crevice of a wall, and affords the most delicious article that is ever
made by any of the bee class.
There was a variety of fruit trees in the garden of this gentleman, and
among them a specimen of the peach; which was, however, of inferior
quality, as are all seen in any part of the country.
A large company was invited to join us at dinner to-day, and the
entertainment was most sumptuous; with a fine turkey in addition to a
fine old ham, and other meats, and as a compliment to the dessert, a
plum pudding held a conspicuous place. This last delicacy was dressed in
a way that I have not been accustomed to see; loaf sugar being placed
over it, and then Cognac brandy poured upon this, and set on fire by a
strip of paper which accompanied the lighted candle. I confess in this
matter to have shown my greenness, as I really did not understand the
programme until it was explained to me; and this account of the after
dinner scene may enable some other person to avoid showing their
ignorance. This dish is called here by its English name, _plum pudding_;
and in like manner, _roast beef_ is known by this name among the best
families.
I was quite surprised when asked by the lady of the house, “Quere plum
pudding?” and upon inquiry I was informed that when this article was
imported the name was imported with it.
While we were yet engaged with the meats, Dr. Vaz arose, and
representing our host, made a short speech of welcome to us, and closed
with a sentiment embodying all by name. To show his appreciation of the
compliment, the General made rather a lengthy address for a dinner
table, and toasted the Emperor of Brazil and the province of São Paulo.
With a few preliminary remarks, I gave the sentiment that Settequéda and
São Lorenço would long be remembered as the homesteads of our best
friends. Dr. Warne premising some remarks, toasted our host and hostess.
General Wood not being well, begged to be excused, and retired to his
room before the exercises were concluded, when Dr. Vaz went out to
minister to him. Commendador Egydio and Senor Dom Pinto made addresses
complimentary to our people, and calculated to encourage our movement to
this country.
The remarks on this occasion were interpreted by Mr. Bennaton, as each
speaker proceeded, and quite an awkward scene occurred from the deafness
of Dom Pinto, who had not perceived that the remarks were interpreted;
and when he rose to speak, afforded no opportunity for the interpreter
to repeat his words; who consequently had to abandon the undertaking and
leave the Dom to proceed without any prospect of being understood by our
party.
After dinner I went with Dr. Reinhardt to his house and received much
information as to the country and the medical profession of the city. He
tells me that the physicians here realize from $5,000 to $7,000 per
annum, and that the plantations of coffee around the place afford a
considerable share of the business. He thinks of coming to the United
States after a few years for the purpose of educating his children,
having married and raised a family in Brazil.
The most attractive feature of the hospitalities of Senor Joaquim
Bonifacio was the party given in the evening, at which there were
present many of the elite, with several very pretty and sprightly young
ladies. The daughters and wife of Dr. Vaz were introduced to me and
others of our party by himself; and these fine-looking and
elegantly-dressed young ladies were the stars of the evening, though
there were others who were much admired by the gentlemen of our party.
General Wood having recovered from his indisposition, danced with
several of the ladies, and appeared the gayest among the gay. Dr. Warne
also danced several rounds, and even enjoyed the intimate relations of a
waltz with the younger daughter of Dr. Vaz. The older daughter had the
lower part of her fine skirt torn in the dance, and in assisting her to
pin it up, I made a blunder, by saying “sua vestida muito ruim.”
The idea that I wished to convey was, that her dress was in bad
condition from this accident; but I learned afterwards that the true
import of my words was, Your dress is very worthless. It is to be hoped,
however, that she would attribute it to my ignorance, though I observed
at the moment that she had rather a peculiar expression of
dissatisfaction, and made no reply to my remark.
The music on this occasion was very superior; there being one band with
brass instruments at the outer front door where the company were
assembling, and another band which made music for the dancing when it
began about 9 o’clock in the evening. At the close some pieces were
performed upon the piano by a gentleman, and accompanied by a
cornet-a-pistons, which received the undivided attention of the
assemblage.
The refreshments were served upon waiters by the gentlemen in
attendance, and the wants of every one were looked after assiduously.
This is a feature of difference that will strike all as corresponding to
the courtesy alluded to in regard to rendering assistance in mounting,
and more remarkable in a slave country where the houses are supplied
with excellent servants.
Tea, chocolate, and coffee were handed, with quite a variety of cakes
and sweetmeats; while at the close of the evening, or rather the
morning, for it was then 2 o’clock A. M., a concentrated chicken-soup
was served in teacups. This struck me as very proper to meet the
exhaustion incident to the active exercise and loss of sleep at this
late hour, and yet it was new.
Though the want of a common tongue was embarrassing to all parties, the
evening passed very pleasantly.
FRIDAY, _November 17, 1865_.
While there was much elegance and many conveniences connected with the
large establishment in which we were quartered, we were surprised to
learn that there was no privy about the place, and the only alternative
was the use of chamber-pots in the rooms for all the uses of such
places. The repugnance felt with American gentlemen to this proceeding
is not lessened by the necessity of their situation in the midst of a
city, and one of the improvements much needed in the domestic
arrangements of this country is the addition of latrines to their
premises. If a room was set apart for offices of this kind, it would
obviate some of the embarrassments; yet a neat privy kept in good order
is a very genteel appendage to an establishment; and by inviting to the
regular discharge of the functions of the intestinal canal, it exercises
a beneficial influence on health, and the general comfort of a family.
Upon being introduced to a lady in the house as the sister of our host,
I was informed by him that she was the mother of his wife, which of
course makes him the uncle of his wife. Had I not found previously that
this kind of marriage takes place here very frequently, and that among
the best class of people, it would have been regarded as a matter of too
much delicacy to refer to in a record of this kind. In three instances,
of the most intelligent and most refined people met with in this
country, the lady is the niece of her husband, and I must forbear to
express my convictions of the consequences that must be entailed upon
posterity by this course.
It was arranged that we would leave this morning; and, in consideration
of the temporary illness of the General last evening, a carriage was
provided, with four horses, to convey him to Jundiahi, and Mr. Bennaton
takes a seat with him.
The rest of us being ready to go in advance, moved off on horseback,
escorted out to the edge of the town by Senor Joaquim Bonifacio and
several of his friends. He pointed out on the way a number of houses
occupied by Germans who were formerly colonists upon this place, and
also their school-room filled with children, which, taken together,
indicates that they are getting along prosperously in their new homes.
We stopped upon the road to-day at an inn (hospidaria) kept by one of
these German families, who had collected a considerable property in a
few years, and they now have a plantation with several slaves, in
connection with a thriving house of entertainment for travellers. Most
of those who entered business originally with some of the Fazendieros as
colonists, have since attained to a moderate competency, and settled
themselves upon small farms or engaged in mercantile business.
Campinas is surrounded by large and flourishing coffee plantations, and
is the residence of many wealthy planters, yet I understand that there
is not much trade of any kind conducted in the city. Should the
projected railroad be built in a reasonable time, it will enhance the
importance of this city vastly, and it will then become attractive as a
location for business and as a place of residence for families. I await
the result with a feeling of interest.
On our route to-day we found that three out of the number of disabled
public animals had been left at different points, as it was
impracticable for them to travel with the train, while the others
proceeded to our place of stopping, within one mile of Jundiahi.
This inn, kept by Senor José Pinto, is a fair sample of these houses of
entertainment for travellers, and though we were molested with fleas as
we went up, the general provisions for our accommodation were as good as
are usually found at these places. There are two young women about the
house, who are daughters of the proprietor, and don’t seem to have any
fear of strangers, attending promptly to all their wants. The
proprietor, who is generally known as Barão (the Baron), is immensely
corpulent, and locomotes as little as possible, yet he learns every
thing that can be communicated by persons passing in either direction,
and is regarded as the best authority for what is going on in the
country.
One of the small forest hogs, called tité, that are abundant in some
regions we have visited, was seen domesticated at this place. It looks
very much like we might expect a cross between a hog and a goat to
appear, being of a gray color, and without any tail, but with a head
corresponding very much to that of the ordinary swine.
This animal rarely exceeds fifty pounds weight, and is an excellent
article for the table, the flesh being delicate and tender. The woman
who owned this desired to sell it to us, but as our transportation was
not suited for the accommodation of life-stock, it had to be left for
some other purchaser.
A well-assorted and abundant supply of eatables was sent by our hostess
at Campinas to meet our wants for the day, and nothing was required at
the inn.
SATURDAY, _November 18, 1865_.
Being aroused early this morning we were served with a cup of coffee by
Barão, and prepared for the road. The General rode into the villa of
Jundiahi in the four-horse carriage, and there dismissing the driver and
equipage to return to Campinas, he mounted his mule again, feeling much
reinforced for the journey.
One of the camaradas was sent back by Mr. Bennaton with money to pay for
the attention given by parties on the road to the disabled animals, and
with instructions to bring them forward leisurely, so as to return them
to the government authorities at São Paulo.
As I did not care to remain at Jundiahi, while the General was
undergoing the transfer from his four-horse carriage to the mule, I came
on in advance and reached the house of Mr. D. H. Sampson at Cachoeira
about 9 o’clock. My kind friend here expressed his satisfaction at my
return; and when informed that the rest of the party were on the way, he
proceeded to order breakfast for all.
We soon heard the sound of the horn, which General Wood had carried with
him throughout the tour, giving his signals for moving or stopping, and
on various other occasions as his fancy dictated.
The entire party rested at Cachoeira until the afternoon, when the
General and his party proceeded to an inn called Peru, twelve miles
distant; and Mr. Bennaton remained with me for the night, under the
hospitable roof of friend Sampson.
SUNDAY, _November 19, 1865_.
Rising before daylight, the French cook Philipe, who has charge of Mr.
Sampson’s establishment, gave us a cup of coffee with bread and butter,
and we mounted our mules for a direct ride of twenty-eight miles to São
Paulo. The excellent mule which had been furnished me by Mr. Gephardt
for the trip was placed at my service by Mr. Sampson for the ride to the
city; and I feel under the greatest obligations to these gentlemen for
their disinterested kindness to me in this and in other matters.
The spirit of accommodation manifested by Mr. D. H. Sampson, with his
acts of generosity to myself and others who have come from the Southern
States, makes us realize that the interest he has taken in our cause is
extended to us; and for myself, I shall always feel grateful to him for
his substantial favors, and his courteous attentions extended to me.
In following the grade of the railway we passed the termination of the
iron rail twelve miles from the city of São Paulo, and learned from a
man engaged on the road that there would be an interruption of some
months, from a land-slide at the Serra de Santo having stopped the
transportation of iron. This serra is likely to be a very serious
obstacle to the success of the road, as even when in working order the
inclined plane, with four stationary engines to draw up the cars, is an
inconvenient arrangement, and not by any means free from danger. The
effect of these repeated land-slides must be unfavorable to our
prospects of making a settlement in the interior, and it thus becomes
more important to ascertain whether some other locality may not prove
more advantageous.
We reached São Paulo at noon, General Wood and his party having arrived
an hour previously.
After breakfast and a bath, I walked down to give a letter to Mrs.
Blackford from her husband, and to inquire for letters from my wife and
friends. It was a great disappointment to find no letters here, nor at
the post-office; and my only hope now is, that there may be letters for
me at Rio de Janeiro, on my arrival there.
During the afternoon I was called upon at the Hotel da Europa by Senor
João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo, and at the same time General Wood was
visited by Senor Dom Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr.
The question of an emigration association being presented by General
Wood to Dom Pinto, he said that he would confer with his friends in
regard to such an organization. He made out a list of names that would
probably be favorably disposed in this matter, and that would be
requested to meet here to-morrow at 12 o’clock, in regard to the plan of
proceeding.
It was found this afternoon that one of General Wood’s trunks,
containing specimens of coffee, wood, and grass, was missing; and as it
was supposed that the camarada Manoel, or the servant Fortunatus, should
be held responsible for its return, the police were advised of the facts
and arrested the former, committing him to jail for further
investigation.
This trunk had been taken first to the quarters of Senor Street, under
the impression that it contained articles belonging to him; but on
finding that it was to go to the hotel, the camarada intrusted it to a
negro that was not personally known to him, and nothing has been heard
of it since.
MONDAY, _November 20, 1865_.
With a view to dispose of the matter referred to last in my previous
record, I may state that General Wood had the camarada Manoel released
from confinement this morning. He then set about investigating the
locality of the negro man to whom he had given the trunk, and while we
were at dinner, Manoel came in with the trunk, exciting the sympathy of
all present by his manner, and the known fact of his innocence as to the
miscarriage of the trunk. It seems, according to the statement, that the
negro brought the trunk to the hotel, but not knowing the name of the
person for whom it was intended, he remained for a time, and then, with
a view to secure his fee when it was delivered, took it to his own
quarters.
In compliance with the request of General Wood, I wrote out to-day for
him a report of the recent tour and examination of the lands of
Araraquara and Jahu, with a proposition to adopt this region as a
location, if proper facilities can be afforded by the government of
Brazil. He expects to submit this to the President of the province of
São Paulo during an audience to-morrow, and it is supposed that this
official will recommend measures for accomplishing the object in view to
the Minister of Agriculture at Rio de Janeiro.
I was asked by the General to go to his room for an introduction to the
gentlemen assembled there, for conference as to an association to
promote emigration, and found the following persons present: Senor Dom
Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr., Senor Dom Bernardo d’Avelino Gavião, Senor
Dom Fidelis Nepormecino Prates, Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo,
Commendador Vicente de Sonsa Queiroz, and Senor Dom Martinho da Silva
Prado.
TUESDAY, _November 21, 1865_.
I accompanied General Wood to-day to call upon the President of the
province at 12 o’clock, and the General handed him his report, with the
map of the country traversed, as made out by Mr. Street, the engineer,
who accompanied him throughout the tour. The General made some remark in
regard to my co-operation with him, which being interpreted to the
President, he desired to know if I concurred with General Wood in
considering these lands desirable for my friends, and whether he would
be authorized to state this fact to the Minister of Agriculture. I
replied, that of the lands which had been examined I was most pleased
with those included in the limits indicated; though it might then have
been further stated that I had not seen all that was desirable to enable
me to make a proper selection.
At 4½ o’clock P. M. we met the gentleman who called yesterday at General
Wood’s room, at the palace of the President, where this official was
present, with the following other persons of distinction, viz.: Barão de
Itapetininga, Barão de Ignape, Barão de Rio Claro, Dom Luiz Antonio de
Sonsa Barros, Dom Silveirio Rodriquez Jordão.
After a short period of silent suspense, General W. W. W. Wood rose, and
with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, proceeded to lay before this dignified
and highly respectable assemblage his views in regard to the objects to
be attained by the organization of a society to promote emigration to
Brazil, and especially to this province. But he concluded with referring
any action that might be thought proper to the discretion of those
present who might feel interested in the movement. He subsequently
requested that Dom Gavião would give his views to the meeting, which he
did at some length without rising from his seat; and as Mr. Bennaton
stated subsequently, quite favorably to the object in contemplation.
General Wood then made a few remarks further, touching the subject under
consideration, at the close of which I suggested that we should retire,
and leave our Brazilian friends to deliberate freely upon all points
they might desire to discuss. It was accordingly so announced, and we
took our leave of this select assemblage.
I called early this morning upon Senor Bento Alves, No. 10, Rua do
Commuveio, to make arrangements for visiting a fazenda, called Bananal,
some sixteen miles from the city. Finding he had but one animal at hand,
I had to wait until next day for him to procure one for me, and we
expect to go to-morrow morning at 6 o’clock, without any interpreter.
WEDNESDAY, _November 22, 1865_.
The result of the meeting yesterday was the formation of an association
to promote emigration, with the following appointment of officers:
For President, Barão de Ignape.
For Vice-President, Commendador Queiroz.
To Draft a Constitution, Commendador Queiroz, Dom Bernardo Gavião, and
Dom Pinto, Junr.
Thus we have the initiation of a very important movement for the
interest of those who may come from the Southern States to this
province; and the only feature that strikes me unfavorably is, that the
president is quite an old man, without that energy which a younger
person could bring to the work. If it can be brought into that practical
and efficient operation which the expressions of favor would warrant, we
may confidently rely upon something being effected for the advantage of
emigrants from the Southern States.
I rode with Senor Bento Alvez to-day, to visit the Fazenda Bananal; and
though he understood nothing of English I managed to use enough
Portuguese to make him understand me, and I guessed pretty successfully
at what he said to me on the way.
The first five miles of our route was over a most excellent public
highway, to the Frequezia Penha, which has cost the province a round sum
of money; but there are very few buggies or carriages to enjoy this fine
drive. I was especially struck with the great number and variety of
crosses, made of wood, that stood upon the roadsides after passing this
little village; and my travelling companion never came opposite to one,
without raising his hat, as an act of religious veneration. Some of
these crosses indicate that a death has occurred near, or serve as a
talisman. It is so common to see a cross upon the roadsides, in various
portions of this country, that I have endeavored to get some
intelligible explanation of their design; but no one seems to have any
more satisfactory solution than that these people think that they secure
some immunity from all harm by the presence of a cross. They are seen
very frequently at the forks of roads, at the point where a family path
leads into the main road.
If a murder has occurred at any particular spot, there a cross is
certainly erected; and as murders were very ordinary occurrences
throughout certain portions of this country in former years, it may be
that most of the crosses, remote from dwellings, indicate the site of a
murder. These crosses are frequently covered by a small house, and
garlands of flowers will sometimes be seen, either fresh or decayed,
upon them. There is a basis of superstition connected with all this,
which the intelligent Roman Catholics of Brazil ignore and lament; yet
the mass of the people, in their ignorance, continue to practice these
things with a reverential awe.
In lieu of breakfast we stopped at a wayside inn, and got a cup of
coffee, which was enjoyed with my cold lunch of beef and bread given me
by the landlady at the Hotel da Europa.
Being now in good riding-trim, and being mounted upon an easy-going
horse, I took the lead, so as to hurry up my Brazilian friend. He is of
Spanish extraction; and not much more of the go-ahead in his composition
than pertains to the character of most of these people, who have grown
up under the idea that to-morrow is as good as to-day.
Upon entering the lands of the fazenda we first encountered an extensive
level plain, which is called “campo largo.” This was covered with a
short grass, that seemed to be relished by the cattle and horses which
were grazing upon different parts of it. The cattle seemed in good
order, but the horses and a few mules looked shabby and rather thin, as
if they did not receive the same benefit as the other stock from the
grazing.
The soil was almost black, and with the use of the plough might yield
other grasses; or it might prove productive if planted in corn or peas.
Yet this experiment has yet to be made, and is certainly attended with
much doubt.
This campo largo is separated from the other land, that lies more
irregular in its conformation, by a stream of water, such as we would
style a creek. On the other side of this the land ascends into a range
of mountain elevations, whose sides can only be cultivated with great
difficulty by the hoe. Upon these slopes the land is of a dark gray
aspect, corresponding more to the appearance of some of the up-country
lands in South Carolina than any I have seen here.
The houses composing the site of this fazenda are located at the foot of
this range of elevated land, and in a central position as to the
territory. There is a good dwelling, of moderate size, having a plank
floor, glass windows, and a tile roof. The outhouses are inferior in
quality, yet capacious, and meet the needs of the establishment. A
monjolo is worked by water, brought in a race from the stream spoken of,
and there is an old apparatus formerly used for grinding mandioca, which
is now out of order, but might be turned to practical account.
After a plain, substantial dinner, the examination of the lands was
resumed, and we visited two sites where families were located, but the
positions were not well suited for dwellings. Indeed, there are no good
situations for the residence of families anywhere on the place, as the
chief location is almost inaccessible from the irregularity of the
ground. An abandoned coffee-patch lies near the house.
The quality of most of the land is inferior, and unfavorably located for
cultivation with a plough; and I felt satisfied at sight that this place
was not adapted for our purposes. Being very tired I declined eating any
thing for supper, and retired to my quarters, where I found a very
comfortable bed arranged with musqueto-netting. The single bed,
corresponding very much in proportion to our hospital bunks, is the most
frequent in this country; and it is very rare that a large double bed is
found, except for family use where there are children.
There is one view of this fazenda which might be worthy of attention,
and though evidently unsuited to the location of a number of families,
there is a large extent of territory which is well adapted to grazing,
and a cattle range can be extended to public lands lying adjacent. There
is a considerable portion of elevated campo land, independent of the
level plain described as lowland, which would doubtless suit very well
for sheep and goats, as some of it is quite rugged, and has clumps of
trees, which would serve as places of retreat in the heat of the day.
Any one who would desire to combine stock-raising with a farming
business, might do it here advantageously; and from the proximity to the
market of São Paulo, there would be a ready disposition of all that
could be grown.
THURSDAY, _November 23, 1865_.
A nephew of Senor Bento, who resides upon the Fazenda Bananal, joined me
this morning in riding across the mountain, to take a survey of the
forest land lying upon the slope and crest of this elevation. I saw a
few places in which corn was growing very satisfactorily, and after
reaching the top of the ridge, found a portion of the ground whose
configuration was more favorable for cultivation, though most of it lay
quite irregularly.
There was nothing worthy of further notice save a most beautiful lake,
far above the surrounding country, enclosed by hillocks, and having a
dense forest lying upon one side. It is fed by a number of small rills,
and perhaps also by internal springs, while there is but one outlet,
forming a large stream, which has a most picturesque cascade at a short
distance from the lake. This placid lake, which is known as “tanque
grande,” with the bold stream leading from it into the forest, and then
dashing down a rocky gorge, presents the most attractive feature of this
fazenda. The lake is said to be very deep, and contains a large number
of excellent fish. It might become very profitable as a place for the
culture of fish, to supply the market of São Paulo, as the outlet could
be so guarded by an iron grating, or a network of sipo, as to prevent
the escape of even small fish over the fall, and the fish could be
caught with the hook or other modes of capture on a larger scale.
If the gentlemen and ladies of the city should desire recreation, they
could find no more pleasant resort than this lago bonneto upon the
mountain top, and close the day with a fish-fry in the adjoining grove.
This attractive spot is evidently not appreciated as a specimen of the
beauties of natural scenery, and few, perhaps, excepting those rude and
unlettered inhabitants of this mountain region, know of its existence.
Should a traveller in Switzerland encounter such a rare combination of
beauties as is presented here, it would be sketched with the greatest
interest, and portrayed in the most enthusiastic terms by the lover of
nature. It is a quiet, clear sheet of water, about three hundred yards
in length, and about two hundred yards in width, with the outlet as
stated, running into a dense forest. The lands around it have been
cleared up for cultivation, and run down with a gentle slope on all
sides to the margin. The vandal hand which cut away the primeval growth
around this lovely spot should be held responsible for constructing a
terraced walk around it, and beautifying it with the choicest flowers
and evergreens, so as to compensate for the loss it has sustained in
removing the grove.
Though I could not praise the soil, I expatiated in all the variety of
terms my vocabulary would afford, upon this exquisite water-scene, yet
my matter-of-fact companion met my eulogy by the grave and business-like
interrogation, whether I was sufficiently pleased with my examination to
buy the fazenda, to which I was forced to give a negative reply.
As I returned to the city with Senor Bento, we stopped at the house of
his brother, Senor Bonifacio, at the Fraguezia Conceicão, and there
enjoyed a bait of jaboticabas from the trees that grew in a field near
by. While in the house, a servant was ordered to do something in which
café and laranga (meaning coffee and orange) was heard, and supposing
these articles were being ordered for us, I excused myself from taking
coffee in the best Portuguese available, when lo, it turned out that the
words simply referred to securing our horses in the grove near the trees
of the above name. Thus it is that an imperfect knowledge of language
gets one into difficulties on every hand.
The sun being very hot, I was kindly supplied with an umbrella by a
gentleman who joined us in the ride from this place to the city, and
though he was thus left unprotected, there was no alternative but to
accept it. These people are frequently very self-sacrificing in their
courtesies to others, and though it has been said to me that their
civilities are only the outward show of politeness, I must say to their
credit, that nowhere can there be found more of the reality of
accommodation, and hearty readiness in rendering any required aid, than
among the people of this province.
Upon reaching São Paulo, I found that our baggage had been sent to the
office of the diligence to be forwarded to Santos, and tickets were
secured for us to proceed to-morrow morning.
FRIDAY, _November 24, 1865_.
At a late hour last night, one of General Wood’s party, Mr. W. C.
Kernan, reached the hotel Europa from Ybicaba, where he had been left
sick. He accompanied me this morning to the diligence station, and upon
my statement that Mr. Street would arrange for his passage, a seat was
procured for him.
I found upon entering the diligence that Dom Pinto, Junr., was a
passenger, and he introduced me to Mrs. Burton, the wife of the British
Consul at Santos. She requested me to take charge of her on the trip,
which was done, and upon arrival a servant was engaged to carry her
baggage to the hotel, but my proffer of attendance was declined, as she
said that she desired to give her husband a little surprise, and would
prefer to go up alone.
She remarked that Captain Burton would be happy to see me at any time,
when I replied that it would afford me pleasure to meet him if he should
find it convenient to call upon me.
Our passage in the diligence was made in the shortest possible time,
over the smooth road, to the top of the serra, but a tedious descent was
caused by some derangement of the stop-block attached to the wheel of
the diligence, and we had rather a slow boat from Cubitão to the city of
Santos, where we arrived at 2 o’clock P. M.
After proceeding a short distance from the landing, I met a young man
employed in the store of Mr. W. J. Wright, and accompanied him to the
office, where I found the same cordial greeting and tender of
hospitality which had met me in passing here previously. His intelligent
and dignified lady subsequently received me with much kindness also.
Their two interesting little boys, Billy and Henry, recollected my
former visit, and seemed likewise to welcome my return, so that I really
felt very much at ease in my social relations to this pleasant family.
After dinner we walked out, together with the children, to a cool
fountain a short distance from the residence, and there enjoyed a
sociable conversation, sitting upon the green sward.
I accepted the invitation of Mr. Wright to accompany him and Mrs. Wright
to the theatre at night, to hear the bell-ringers and tumbler melodists.
An intelligent young Brazilian gentleman, Dom Augusto T. Coimbra, went
with us from the house, but I soon found that there was another
attraction in the building for him more potent than the skill of the
performers.
After entering the box with Mr. and Mrs. Wright, I bowed to General
Wood, who was in the pit with the rest of the party, and upon his rising
and bowing to me, he was invited by Mr. Wright to come into the box.
He came, accompanied by Mr. De Vi Valdi, United States consul at this
port, who not being in good odor with my friend, Wright, was not
presented to me, and after a short time he requested General Wood to
introduce him. After the first performance, they returned to the seat
with Dom Pinto, Junr., the General and his party being his guests for
the evening.
The success of the bell-ringing was complete, and I was particularly
impressed with the execution of a piece called Orpheus. But I did not
find so much to admire in the musical tones of the friction upon the
different glasses, though great skill and art were displayed by the
operator.
Though there was here a collection of the best people of the city, there
were but few fine-looking young ladies.
SATURDAY, _November 25, 1865_.
We were introduced to Captain Rudolf Julio de Balbi, inspector of the
port (Guerdamor) of Santos, who speaks English, and went round the
different parts of the custom-house with the party. This is a large
building, which was formerly a nunnery, and though rather rude in its
structure, answers all the objects of the government at this port, where
but a small business is done, and yet with the prospect of doing an
extensive trade at a future day. This gentleman took us in his boat to
the arsenal landing, where the commander of the port joined us, and some
of the party getting into his boat with the United States consul, we all
went aboard of the Santa Maria. After paying this mark of respect to
General W. W. W. Wood, these gentlemen took leave of us and returned to
the shore.
Four hundred soldiers destined for the seat of war were embarked upon
the steamer, and yet did not interfere with the cabin passengers. All
were well-dressed, and seemed in fine spirits for the most part. A few,
who looked rather pensive and lachrymose at parting with friends, were
rallied by the others with much glee.
The drummer of the band, who was a mulatto, with spectacles, made a
speech, in which there seemed to be a profusion of patriotism, and
closing with vivas for the cause, and everybody and every thing
associated with this regiment, he drew forth the huzzas of all around
him. Music was next in order, and he belabored his huge bass drum with
as much energy as he had delivered his speech.
One of the officers afterwards rose, and shouting at the top of his
voice gave a series of vivas that were responded to by huzzas from the
troops, and the whites, mulattoes and negroes all seemed alike
exhilarated.
This doubtless changed the current of feeling with many who had left
their homes reluctantly, and especially was it salutary for those who
had been dragged forcibly into the service. Military duty appeals to the
noblest elements of man’s nature, but when the endearments of family and
the comforts of home are contrasted with the love of country and the
trials of the campaign, there are many in every country who are disposed
to shrink from the call to arms; and the scenes which have been
witnessed of men being brought up with chains around their necks, is
only an aggravated exhibition of what occurs in most countries engaged
in war. Those who won’t do their duty voluntarily must be required to do
it under coercion.
When we got upon the sea many of the officers and men became sea-sick,
and with the usual want of sympathy on such occasions I observed one
poor fellow, who was casting his dinner over the rail, had two or three
on each side of him, who were jestingly going through the motions to
taunt him for his weakness of stomach. There were women accompanying
some of the men, but in what capacity is not known, and in some
instances they were sick, with their heads resting against the breasts
of the men, while in others the men were sick, with their heads on the
laps of the women, who sat flat upon the deck. By the way, this is a
very common style of sitting among the common and middle class of women
in Brazil, using simply a piece of thin matting to keep them off the
dirt floor. Upon entering the humbler class of houses you are likely to
see, in a back room, women with only a chemise and petticoat sitting
down in this way at work, who get out of view as soon as possible.
SUNDAY, _November 26, 1865_.
Our steamer entered the harbor of Rio de Janeiro about 7 o’clock this
morning, and at the police station a boat was secured for us and our
baggage, in which we came immediately to the wharf and thence to the
Exchange Hotel. The total expense of boating and porterage for four of
us was but $2.00; which was less than I had to pay for myself in getting
from the steamer to the hotel in New York on my way out. The porterage
allowed negroes in Rio by those who understand the terms upon which they
can be secured, is very small, not usually exceeding five cents for a
trunk or box to be carried several squares. But when these darkies find
a man who does not speak the language, and consequently unacquainted
with the usages of the place, they make up for their shortcomings on
other occasions. When a boat or a porter is wanted, the best plan is to
fix your price, and call out for some one who will serve you at the
proposed rate, when the competition soon secures the service from some
of the number that are present at these places on all occasions.
Our apartments at the Exchange Hotel are very comfortable and even
elegant, with all the usual appliances of a well-furnished room. General
Wood and Doctor Warne are quartered together, while Mr. Brown and myself
are in another apartment. We have a sitting-room, bed-room, and
dressing-room, for which the charge is $2.50 per day; while the more
tasteful accommodations of the General and Doctor Warne are valued at
$4.00 per day. These charges are independent of our fare, which is paid
for according to what is ordered at each meal. We are upon the same
floor with the eating-saloon and quite convenient.
Having a letter of introduction from Mr. Bennaton to Mr. Carlos Nathan,
I accompanied General Wood and Doctor Warne to his establishment, No. 77
Rua São Pedro; when he invited our party to dine with him and his
brother George residing in Botafogo. As he feared there might be some
disappointment in our finding the boat, he despatched a servant to
conduct us at 2 o’clock to the proper place. The trip through the bay
was very pleasant, and our escort being a New York negro he spoke
fluently of the various interesting scenes, but still did not consider
Rio a very desirable residence for free gentlemen of color. Arriving at
Botafogo, it was found a most delightful, retired nook, with neatness
and taste displayed in the houses and grounds, surrounding a small arm
of the sea that extends between the mountain cliffs on either side. This
is, perhaps, the most pleasant portion of the suburbs of the city for a
private residence; and every consideration of economy, health, and
retirement contributes to render this locality desirable.
The wives of these two brothers are sisters, of the family name of
Goodman, from New Orleans, and speak French quite as readily as English.
Their houses are near each other, and Mr. Brown and myself dined with
Mr. Carlos Nathan, while the other two dined with Mr. George Nathan.
Mr. Carlos Nathan is manifesting more interest in the emigration from
the Southern States than any of the former residents of the United
States who live in Rio; and indeed these two brothers are the only men
here who were in the South at the opening of the war, they having left
to avoid the consequences that seemed inevitable from the enemy’s
movements.
MONDAY, _November 27, 1865_.
While at breakfast this morning, I met with Messrs. S. W. Brooks, Major
Robert Meriwether, D. H. A. Shaw, and Dr. Davidson, who arrived
yesterday in the steam packet North American from the United States.
They have come to examine the country in reference to business and as a
location for families. Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether are the regular
agents of a colonization society in Edgefield District, South Carolina,
and bring with them an appointment embodying instructions from the
president of the association.
As the representatives of other parties they have adopted the proper
course in having authenticated credentials, which may be exhibited to
those here who may be called upon to render them assistance in exploring
the country. The matter-of-fact bearing on the part of these gentlemen
will impress the officials of Brazil very favorably, and I trust their
investigations may be conducted in a way to lead to most satisfactory
results.
Dr. Davidson is here to act for some friends in Texas, while Mr. Brooks
represents a company of machinists and operatives who desire to
establish a foundry and machine-shop for working iron in all its various
forms.
All these gentlemen impress me with the earnestness of their purposes
and their business intentions, so that I hope to co-operate with them in
the farther examination of the country; and will render them any
assistance in my power to promote their object. The same facilities will
doubtless be afforded by the government to them that have been extended
to others.
Having failed yesterday to find any one at No. 92 Rua Direita, I called
upon Mr. G. N. Davis this morning and received a letter from my wife,
which, however, was written in August, and served very little to relieve
the suspense felt in regard to my family, as great anxiety is manifested
in regard to the future conduct of the negroes in the country.
This is the only information from any of my friends since leaving on the
26th of June; and I am quite anxious to know the present disposition of
those who are expected to act with us in the projected move to Brazil.
I delivered a letter of introduction to-day to Mr. Joseph Bennaton, No.
125 Rua Direita, from his nephew, Mr. Newton Bennaton; whereupon he
manifested a cheerful readiness to promote my wishes, and extended an
invitation to sojourn at his house while I remained in the city. I
thanked him for his proffered hospitality, but stated to him that
circumstances made it desirable for me to stay at the hotel, where
persons could be seen on business. His invitation to visit his family
and take dinner to-morrow afternoon was however accepted.
A copy of the handbook for emigrants to Brazil, arranged by Dom Galvão,
was received from him to-day by the hand of his secretary. In this, he
has compiled the laws and public enactments of the empire of Brazil
bearing upon the relations of foreigners in becoming residents of the
country, with the regulations heretofore in force pertaining to
colonization. It is expected that important modifications of the laws of
Brazil will be made in regard to the anticipated emigration of people
from the south of the United States, yet nothing has yet been definitely
determined on by the authorities.
TUESDAY, _November 28, 1865_.
Upon calling this morning at the residence of the Minister of
Agriculture, he was absent, and a note was left for him stating that I
would return at ten o’clock to-morrow morning with other gentlemen from
the Southern States.
Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson and Mr. Brooks called with me to-day upon Dom
Galvão, and had a conference with him in regard to the emigration
movement. He was so kind as to send his secretary, Mr. Mello, with us to
one of the public offices to procure maps of the lower provinces of
Brazil. This latter gentleman speaks English as well as Dom Galvão, and
I accepted his invitation to go out to-morrow afternoon and make the
acquaintance of his mother’s family.
I proceeded with Mr. Bennaton at four o’clock in the little steamer to
his residence in Caju, and found the scenery in that precinct quite
attractive, and his residence very pleasant. His wife is a German lady,
much younger than himself, and they have three interesting little
children. She is a fine performer on the piano and sings admirably, but
as her pieces were mostly Italian I could not fully appreciate her
music.
After dinner I joined them in a visit to Mr. Fox, who resides in an
elegant house upon the hill, which is surrounded by grounds laid out in
fine taste, and having the additional attraction of most excellent
grapes, imported from the United States. He drew my attention to the
fact of his dwelling being much damaged by an insect which destroys the
texture of the wood and leaves the part without support. I supposed it
to be the same that had been seen at the house of Mr. Blackford, where
the interior of the wood was reduced to a mere powder, with a thin
exterior layer.
This injury to the texture of the wood may escape observation unless
there is a special examination of the particular part, as the
perforations by which these insects enter the outer layer are very
small, and all the fine sawdust made by their operations remains within
this outer shell, that is not thicker in the specimen seen than coarse
white paper.
Any iron rod, or even wooden pole, thrust against a piece of timber
affected in this way would cause it to yield and fall into a hole, so
that the damage might become in this way apparent when their presence
was suspected in a house. But most of the heavy timbers being concealed,
this mode of testing is impracticable, and they give way, as the first
sign of the mischief going on within.
Mr. Fox has lived in Brazil for forty years, and conducted a large and
successful mercantile business, by which he has realized a handsome
competency, and has now retired. He is an Englishman, and has retained
his nationality, raising his British flag on important occasions upon a
flag-staff which stands in his yard. His views are expressed unfavorably
to domesticating in Brazil, and yet his example of spending most of his
life here, with a prospect of continuing here for the present, seems
contradictory to his opinion.
He has not married, and yet has a senhora in his house, who stands in
that relation which induces many in this country to dispense with a
wife.
He is now perhaps over sixty years old, and this buxom-looking,
dark-skinned woman is probably something over thirty-five, officiating
at his table and discharging the other duties of housekeeper.
WEDNESDAY, _November 29, 1865_.
Being awakened at daylight, I accompanied Mr. Bennaton in a row-boat to
the city. He had business which required his presence at his store very
early, and as I wished to confer with the other gentlemen at the hotel
in regard to matters for the attention of the Minister of Agriculture,
it was very desirable to both that this early move be made.
Major Meriwether, Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson, and Mr. Brooks went with me at
10 o’clock A. M. to the residence of the minister, and after presenting
these gentlemen I explained through the secretary, acting as
interpreter, the nature of their mission. The papers embodying the
authority under which they acted were submitted to the consideration of
the minister by Major Meriwether and Dr. Shaw.
Upon learning that these latter two gentlemen desired to visit the
province of São Paulo, the minister stated that they would be afforded
the same facilities which had been received by others, and that they
could likewise visit other provinces if they were not satisfied after
examining this.
When it was intimated to the minister that I had not seen all the parts
of the province of São Paulo which I desired to examine, and that it
would be mutually agreeable to visit such sections of country with these
gentlemen, he said this arrangement would be entirely satisfactory.
It was understood that Senor Ernesto D. Street would take charge of the
voyage to Conceicão and Cananea, while arrangements would be made for
Mr. Bennaton to proceed with us to other points in the interior.
Dr. Davidson, wishing to go to the Bay of Paranagua, had similar
facilities afforded for his passage and subsequent examination of the
adjacent country.
Mr. Brooks explained his object in coming here from the United States,
to ascertain certain facts as to the location of iron-works in Rio de
Janeiro; and that this being the centre of trade, it was not thought
advisable to go elsewhere. He stated that all the appliances were in
readiness to be brought here and put into operation should his
information warrant the move, but as yet he had not learned those data
upon which a conclusion could be based.
I adverted to the probable advantages of some location which could make
the ore of Epanema available, and supply not only all the domestic and
agricultural implements for the province of São Paulo and others
adjoining, but eventually make railroad iron for the extension of the
line in progress from Santos. The minister thought a situation might be
secured with this view that would prove very favorable to business. But
Mr. Brooks not being inclined at present to extend his observations and
inquiries beyond the city of Rio, the minister assured him of his desire
to encourage the erection of such works, and that any assistance which
the government could consistently render would be extended to this
enterprise.
The minister stated that there was no tax on capital employed in the
various manufacturing operations, and that no duty is exacted upon such
implements as emigrants may import upon their arrival in the country for
their use.
Professional men, as doctors and lawyers, are required to undergo an
examination upon coming here for the practice of their respective
callings.
Negroes are not admitted into Brazil from other countries unless
free-born, and even should they be citizens of the latter after being in
slavery, it does not authorize them to be received here.
Regarding this a matter of much moment to those whose negroes would be
willing to come with them to this country, I urged the importance of
some modification of the existing regulations so as to permit those
presenting free-papers from the United States government to enter
Brazil. But the minister informed us that it was a provision of the
constitution based upon international laws, that could not be altered
without a reference to the other powers concerned, and, moreover, that
this element would not be a very desirable addition to the population of
the country.
There are certainly some aspects of the matter which make it of
questionable propriety to admit this particular class of free negroes in
a country where slavery exists, and the influence of these freedmen upon
other free negroes and upon slaves in Brazil might tend to bring about
similar scenes to those which have been enacted in the process of
emancipation in the United States.