Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired

to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the

tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and

vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness

upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of

the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was

rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his

feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress;

and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their

attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not

come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a

certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to

graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra

years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their

pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this

institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an

equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first

class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with

similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that

the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though

the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but

there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a

nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring

forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the

initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these

organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable;

consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But

it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these

stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of

large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with

the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the

business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are

some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the

railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its

general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the

streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of

gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which

should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and

intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many

persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good

climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her

municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with

gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in

the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that

all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been

arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven

hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals,

however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada

has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He

expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our

outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for

pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present

expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night

to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which

may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better

now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it

can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would have been so much

delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the

vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some

interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is

occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the

disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted,

there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land,

constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles

from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I

can’t see them now.

FRIDAY, _September 29, 1865_.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my

personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf

for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to

the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that

we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have

intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our

departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out

at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of

this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that

the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in

their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified

with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private

persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it

might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province

for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have

determined to send him a letter of thanks, expressing my obligations for

the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public

may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore

suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of

introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of

Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the

people.

SATURDAY, _September 30, 1865_.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company

with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed

by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and

presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several

elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the

chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and

the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the

structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the

rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home

to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with

the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more

appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than

in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of

more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated

more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in

most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill,

and a well-constructed furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive

tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The

price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand,

will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to

furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick

and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that

henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick,

instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as

yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to

make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of

Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse,

rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,)

he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was

explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was

gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I

would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common

when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a

distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very

costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in

return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of

equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject

of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third

most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable

difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this

department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was

enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the

recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a

tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit

of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of

finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is

but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens,

where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results

compared with those of good lands.

_October 1, 1865._

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as

practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to

take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was

so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this

morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with

the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point

in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two

days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by

sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave

until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford,

was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not

understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the

hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of

Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession

of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members

of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way,

under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting

regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the

afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the

youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated

considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in

attendance at each service were from the humbler class of society, and

there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people

with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom

of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the

supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature

for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families

where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me

it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment

of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many

who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this

papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy

things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to

exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy

living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends

in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside

the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to

our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we

shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in

our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will

be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the

papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister

of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for

liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to

expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through

his influence with the government.

MONDAY, _October 2, 1865_.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I

started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray

horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious

reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend

Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this

animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr.

Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my

disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use

this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride

alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse

furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our

way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called

here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when

all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the

residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take

dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at

São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a

hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who

was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has

been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country

with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

TUESDAY, _October 3, 1865_.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit

the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from

the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely

through, after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole

extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by

blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary

track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the

outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet

there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of

quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes

overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the

head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large

sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the

drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer

glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be

serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the

surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four

negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by

which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the

roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the

use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the

tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire

extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no

inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi

will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance

of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will

be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of

eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made,

to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas,

a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this line of railroad

to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in

examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly

impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a

railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and

ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who

recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which

he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to

congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the

copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway

in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to

Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at

Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which

our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving

briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi,

before 12 o’clock M.

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and

found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that

presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a

military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the

patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São

Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army

against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these

fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a

mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good

service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not likely to become a

pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any

special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the

fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making

progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial

of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the

arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.

A few small patches of coffee tree were seen near the village which

seemed in a thriving condition, and indicated a yield far beyond what

might have been anticipated from the appearance of the soil. A change,

however, in the land, seems to commence near this place, and it assumes

here very much the aspect of red clay, but in some parts the sandy soil

predominating, and all lying very irregular, except immediately upon the

streams.

I was impressed with the adaptation of the Jundiahi river, a small

stream which runs near our inn, for the location of machinery of limited

water-power; and when the railroad reaches this place a good mill or

cotton ginning establishment would be likely to prove very advantageous

on this river. The fall is not very great, but could be arranged so as

to afford all requisite power for this or some similar purpose.

Our quarters were so infested with fleas that I found it necessary to

rise in the night and denude myself, so as to remove those that might be

in my clothing. After this I returned naked to bed, and wrapping up in

the sheet closely there was no further annoyance. This was an experiment

with me, and it succeeded so well that I commend it to others when they

may be thus unfavorably situated. The dirt floors of this house, and the

swine around the doors, presented this nuisance; while our bedding and

the outfit of the apartments were in very comfortable order, and clean.

At this point we overtook our camarada and pack-mules, which had been

sent ahead of us. Getting a change of clothing from our baggage, the

camarada was again sent in advance, so that his mules would not be

required to travel as fast as we would ride. The train now consists of

eight animals, and the mule upon which I am mounted makes nine, which is

rather more than would be desirable to move together. Our baggage

trains, consisting of four mules, two belonging to the camarada, and two

of the government stock, which are very poor and weak, requires to move

slowly, and can take more time by going forward while we stop, either

for repose, or the examination of places of interest during the

afternoon.

WEDNESDAY, _October 4, 1865_.

Moving off this morning at 8 o’clock, we proceeded about fourteen miles,

and halted at the house of a German for two hours. This man had

originally come into the country as a colonist of the government, and

getting a little means had bought this place, paying fifteen hundred

($1500) dollars, for three hundred acres, with a dwelling and other

improvements. Here the soil is evidently better than that below

Jundiahi, and seems to be well adapted to the growth of corn and cotton.

I saw here a specimen of the lint of the pina tree, which is a

beautiful, silky-looking fibre, as white as cotton, and when mixed with

it makes a beautiful fabric; but it has not strength of fibre when used

alone to give proper texture to cloth. The pod is large and spherical,

growing upon a tree which is very large and tall, and though the yield

is generally abundant, the difficulty of procuring the lint is so great

that very little is gathered. Eventually the pods fall to pieces upon

the trees, and this fine silky cotton is blown broadcast through the

forests. We got at this house a very good meal, consisting of Irish

potatoes, corn bread, beans, farina, spare ribs, fried eggs, with a

dessert of honey and sweet milk. Coffee was also served after dinner, as

is the custom everywhere in the country, but I declined it, as all my

available capacity was preoccupied by other things. After leaving this

place, and proceeding towards Campinas, we began to see the successful

culture of the coffee. The extensive plantations, extending with the

greatest regularity as far as the eye could reach, presented a most

attractive feature after passing the dreary waste for two previous days.

We saw at a point within two miles of Campinas some negroes engaged in

loading a huge oxcart with the crude berries of the coffee, from an

immense pile that had been gathered from the trees growing along the

side of the road. The ground under the trees is raked clean preparatory

to stripping the berries with the hand, and an immense broad flat

receptacle made of the bamboo cane is placed under each tree, but what

fails to fall in this is easily swept up from the smooth earth into a

pile, and then taken up and put into the receptacle. These are emptied

into piles convenient to the road, from which the coffee is hauled to

the drying-yard, where it is spread out and watched carefully to guard

it against rain. When dried it is submitted to a process for taking off

the hull, and then fanned to clean it more thoroughly, or even by some

submitted to cleansing by washing.

Having turned off from the main road to Campinas, we were accommodated

with quarters at the antiquated-looking fazenda of Senor Vicente da

Sonza Queiroz, who resides in São Paulo, and gave us a letter to his

administrator at this place, with the expectation that we would stop

here a few days.

After being shown around the premises, Mr. Bennaton and I walked through

the back yard into the grove of orange trees in the garden, where we

found only bitter sweets that were not desirable to eat. When we

returned the old administrator (another word for overseer) expressed

himself as not being satisfied with our going into the back yard without

notifying him, and there being two single daughters on the premises was

doubtless the cause of his concern about our visit. All these people,

who have not been in contact with the outside world, think it a solemn

duty to keep their females in great seclusion. It may be that this old

fellow was afraid we might get a peep at the girls, while perambulating

his back yard. They have not however been seen as yet, and, unless

affording a remarkable contrast to the appearance of their father, it is

not likely they will afford much attraction to the gaze of the curious.

With every thing about the house of plain style, we are very comfortably

fixed, with a large airy room, and two sleeping-apartments.

The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary

construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the

outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is

simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side

of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a

prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a

circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the

operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches,

that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee,

and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over

them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked

and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an

upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling

procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and

afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to

remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is

thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand,

after which another drying process completes the preparations for

market.

I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo,

and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary

exemplification of the mechanical adaptation of means to an end; but I

could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion

which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to

be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam,

which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a

pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end

of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small

channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes

heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the

other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to

escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end

having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the

mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in

it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water

again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping

up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is

propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.

The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more

nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery

with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient

means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the

Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water,

renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other

labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would

beat dough finely.

THURSDAY, _October 5, 1865_.

Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were

quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set

out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our

train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture and

plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding

something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the

large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named.

Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which

assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my

anticipations.

Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his

spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke

with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined,

there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me

to feel easy in his presence.

He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the

servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I

had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with

milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant,

but courtesy demanded that something be taken.

The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully;

but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called

here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor.

These are also neatly furnished.

A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing

furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the

pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single

person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the

best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the

whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or

large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same

material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much

used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from

dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also at

hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across

the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with

water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of

every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the

comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of

the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons

or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more

invigorating.

A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light

from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and,

apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most

tasteful style.

The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country,

is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet

long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room.

Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special

display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was

seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and

myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was

neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our

country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet

there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an

excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all

served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of

vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much.

Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb

make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination

of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine

of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I

relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had

here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any

difficulty.

After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent

saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride

to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted

in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between

each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance

of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the

coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty

years, it is found to be important to their production that the land

should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it

is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed

by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to

enrich it.

There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any

coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting

out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a

partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from

transplanting.

A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the

appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the

height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been

planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to

shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned

out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There

was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon

as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.

This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and

burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet

leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of

this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between

them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full

crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is practicable, and

all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the

culture of this country.

The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in

the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year,

standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this

number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good

with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a

hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.

Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough,

which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was

smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American

plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little

more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties

attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a

barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of

training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him

from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United

States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use

of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this

country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few

years.

The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the

original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon

D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of

good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell

of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large

proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the

property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to

interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it

is to be encountered.

The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality

which has been under cultivation, but is thrown out to rest and

recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in

the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it

has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the

importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it

continues to be productive.

My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to

get information as to the different qualities of soil and their

productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of

disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a

judicious selection of territory for my friends.

At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the

wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in

constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow

and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth.

The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue.

It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The

Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow

color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest

polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative

work by cabinet makers.

The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have

been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which

has just been completed in the most elaborate style.

A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled

cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon

the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the

wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve

together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for

the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the

axle with the other portions of the wagon or cart is not usually

lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the

revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with

a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or

even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought

to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that

have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an

unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts

are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary

accompaniment to their carts.

At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed

that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to

obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But

the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for

fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen

would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was

repealed.

Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred

yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and

coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some

four or five hundred yards off.

Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the

name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the

Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by

this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in

social intercourse.

As the apparatus here embodies all the most recent improvements for

treating the coffee, it will be described with some minuteness. It is

what is styled a “despolpidor,” and receives the coffee directly from

the tree, without any preliminary process of drying, and even while the

berries are yet red, previous to their becoming black. This saves much

trouble which attends other processes, and enables the coffee-grower to

gather his crops earlier than when it is required to dry upon the tree,

or to be dried after gathering, prior to cleaning.

The coffee brought directly from the trees is placed first in a

receptacle built with brick and cement, containing water; which not only

washes the berries, but floats them forward with a current that runs

from this tank by a small trough to another receiver, which constitutes

the despolpidor.

In this there is a revolving cylinder of brass or copper, which has the

surface roughened like a blacksmith’s rasp; and as the coffee passes

into the cavity where this revolves, it comes in contact with this rough

exterior surface, and the outside hull of the berry is detached, and the

investing membrane of each separate grain is more or less torn, but not

entirely separated. This being accomplished, the hulls drop out at a

waste-way, and the grains are carried below with the water into a large

reservoir. Here there are arms or sweeps of wood revolving upon a

central shaft, and constantly stirring and agitating the coffee in the

water, as it passes with the current to the most dependent portion.

There it is subjected to a percolating process of washing by the passage

of the water through it, and out below through a perforated plate. From

this it is dipped up by a system of cups or buckets, such as is used for

elevating flour in our bolting apparatus, and is deposited in a large

cemented reservoir, from which any remaining water is drained off

through perforations in the bottom. The coffee is now taken out to be

subjected to the drying process for the first and only time.

The yard for drying the coffee, called “tereiro,” is a neatly paved,

level space, with a number of divisions for receiving the coffee in the

different stages of drying. This being laid with glazed tile, and

entirely free from dust or other impurity, that can affect the clean

grains of coffee, the drying is accomplished in the most satisfactory

manner.

As a portion of the investment of each grain remains attached to it

after it is completely dry, the process of fanning has still to be

resorted to; and in this unique establishment two fans are connected, so

as to receive the coffee one from the other; and the last so arranged

with a sieve of graduated openings, that the large, fine grains of

coffee are separated from the smaller and imperfect grains. All being

now entirely clean and assorted, it is ready for sacking.

The house in which this entire machinery is arranged is not exceeding

twenty-five feet square; and though there are three different

elevations, in which different stages of the work are conducted, yet but

one floor is required in the building. This compact and nicely-adjusted

apparatus does great credit to the energy and enterprise of the

proprietor; and though he has received many suggestions from other

establishments, there is, perhaps, no single coffee-mill in Brazil that

combines so much efficiency and economy of labor in treating this great

staple. I would therefore urge those who may be entering upon this

business to make a visit to Settequéda, even should it be two hundred

miles distant, so as to get the details of this establishment.

The coffee treated in this way has a value in the market of from five to

ten per cent. above that cleaned by the ordinary process; and when a

fine article is desired for family use, it will command in Brazil a

higher price than any of the coffee shipped to the United States ever

brings in that market. I am informed here, that none of the finest

specimens of coffee are shipped from Brazil to the United States, as the

merchants will not pay the prices at which they sell in Rio de Janeiro.

But these fine lots of coffee find a market in England, and consequently

all the best coffee takes that channel of trade. We are accustomed, in

the United States, to think that it is mere talk as to the superiority

of the living in England; yet, undoubtedly, their progress in

manufactures and arts is not without a proportionate advancement in what

pertains to comfort in their households, and to gratification of taste

at their tables.

FRIDAY, _October 6, 1865_.

We took our leave of Settequéda this morning, and the gentlemanly

proprietor rode with us to an adjoining fazenda belonging to his sister.

Here we had an exemplification of another process for hulling the

coffee, and next in importance to that we have described as being

effected by the despolpidor. It consists in the use of the mortar and

pestle, after the manner adopted in the rice mills of South Carolina.

A number of mortars being excavated from a solid trunk of wood, and thus

placed side by side in a row, constitutes the first element. Next,

pestles for each mortar are arranged, with upright pieces of timber,

having an aperture of about two and a half feet long, and two inches in

width; and these are set in a frame so as to preserve a perpendicular

position. The final appliance is a shaft, with arms extending so as to

catch in these apertures at each revolution, and raising the pestle a

certain distance, the arm slips again from the aperture, and the pestle

falls into the mortar, thus by its weight pounding the coffee. These

arms are so arranged that a portion of the pestles are elevated at each

arc of the circle of revolution; so the work is continuous, under the

operation of the water-power by which the machinery is put in motion. By

this process the hull is very effectually broken and detached from the

grain, but then the use of a ventilator is requisite to separate the

grains and larger portions of the hull, and the sieve is required with

the blowing of the operation, while the coffee is thrown up in the air

time after time, to clean out all foreign matter.

In coming out from the examination of the working of the coffee we were

regaled with some very fine oranges, which were the more prized because

almost out of season in this region. There were also some fine specimens

of the Mamão, a fruit which has its name from the supposed resemblance

to the female breast. It grows upon the tree in clusters near the trunk,

or, in a different species, upon long pendulous branches extending out

some distance from the body of the tree. It is nearly as large as a

small cantelope, and resembles in color and taste the mushmelon.

As we were leaving this place Dom Vaz, of Campinas, was met at the gate,

and introduced to us by Senor Bonifacio. He was coming, as we supposed,

upon a professional visit, and was mounted upon a very fine mule, which

is the most usual and most efficient means of transportation in this

country. I was impressed with his intelligent and sprightly appearance,

with a characteristic energy and activity in his manner, though perhaps

fifty years of age. I learned he formerly resided in Rio de Janeiro, but

not having good health there he removed to the city of Campinas, and

has, in a few years, secured a large and profitable business in his

profession as a physician.

On our way back to our quarters we overtook Senor Joaquim Egydio de

Sonsa Aranha, to whom a letter was delivered from Senor Dom Bernardo

Gaveão. It was read, and then he extended his hand, expressing his

satisfaction at making my acquaintance. His physiognomy is the most

demure, and his manner the least demonstrative, of any gentleman that I

have yet seen.

He was the last President of the House of Deputies of the Provincial

Assembly, and there may be a great deal in this grave exterior, proving

that deep water runs smooth. Upon reaching his house, he offered us

whatever we might choose from his enumerated assortment of drinks. Mr.

Bennaton indicated ale, and this, with porter, was produced upon a

waiter by a negro. I was now particularly struck with an illustration of

the sentiment, that “Actions speak louder than words,” on the part of

our host; who, instead of ordering a cork-screw, made a twisting motion

of the hand, and a look in the direction from which he expected it to be

brought. This was understood, and the article brought accordingly to

open the bottles.

Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our

arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown

down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand

until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules

seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks

off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the

crib.

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us,

and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands

with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio,

in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as

indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was

much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that

introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this

country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each

other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a

system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of

one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing

business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life

require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this

way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of

interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he

intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to

encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne,

the most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely

acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded

to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon

with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and,

for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with

the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair.

This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a

chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even

for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the

most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having

their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled

limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five

berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is

an average yield.

SATURDAY, _October 7, 1865_.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this

morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and

proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but

he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally

from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a

botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement

with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very

much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the

favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of

architectural taste in the cities of the United States. Yet there are a

number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built

manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the

future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently

erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has

been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of

the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars

on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and

rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church.

The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the

unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of

this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there

was nothing to attract within.

But the specimens of exquisite carving in native wood of the country

present the most elegant and delicate workmanship that the world can

produce. It seems as if the genius of some other land had been

transformed to this city to give a fancy sketch which might seem to

elevate the taste of the people. All the work is not yet completed, and

there were several artisans engaged in carving out figures from the

rough pieces of wood. But there seems to be no general movement towards

finishing the work, and the general aspect of the exterior of the

building is that of a ruin, rather than the progressive improvement of a

growing structure.[12]

The common people in all these interior towns look as if they had little

to do, and less to think about, and it evidently afforded considerable

curiosity to men and women as we passed through the city.

Most of the better class of women confine themselves closely to their

houses, or, if seen upon the street, have their heads covered with the

hood of a cloak which envelops their persons. But a more numerous class

of females err on the other extreme; and with bare heads and bare arms,

their natural developments are open to all observers. There is a style

adopted very generally by this class, of having only the chemise on the

body, and a skirt about the waist, thus bringing parts into view which

modesty prompts most females to conceal with great care.

This free and easy apparel is also adopted by the female servants that

are seen about the inns or hospedarias for the accommodation of

travellers; and while it may do for a negro woman employed at washing or

other duties, I am surprised that the white women, who have any

self-respect, should appear in public, thus loosely attired about their

breasts.

It is not uncommon on the route we came through the country, to see the

Portuguese and negroes accompanying the troops of pack-mules without a

shirt. Though they are provided with this garment, it is thrown across

the mule upon which the man is mounted, or tied around his waist, and

thus the sun comes in direct contact with the skin. This kind of

exposure cannot be comfortable, and it cannot be necessary for the free

use of the arms when no labor is performed, yet they seem to have a

partiality for stripping to the buff in this way. Common decency in the

United States would forbid this sort of public denuding of the person,

but here it is a part of the programme of this kind of life, and is not

noticed by those accustomed to the habits of the country, so far as

respects this class of people.

On the contrary of the view here given, it will be found that the

Brazilian gentleman is quite as circumspect in regard to his person as

respects exposure and cleanliness as the most fastidious taste would

exact.

The lands lying along the road after leaving the immediate vicinity of

Campinas were not found under such fine cultivation, and we saw again

signs of the copina, which throws up its mounds of earth in almost every

abandoned field of this country.

We stopped about noon at one of the roadside inns and got our horses

fed, while we waited leisurely for dinner to be prepared for us. Resting

until 4 o’clock P. M., the voyage was resumed, and riding twelve miles,

we stopped for the night at the hospedaria of Ponte Atibaia. Here we had

condiments with our supper and fared well in all respects.[13]

SUNDAY, _October 8, 1865_.

All hands were around this morning at half-past four o’clock, to prepare

for the road, and coffee was ordered while we dressed. Each of the party

seemed to have put on his best outfit in view of the day, and the fact

that Ybicaba was our destination. Even our camarada had put on a neat

white shirt and boots, whereas he had heretofore been barefooted, as is

the custom with this class of men on most occasions.

It presents quite an odd spectacle to see one of these fellows mounted

upon a mule with bare feet, and a huge pair of spurs strapped about his

ankles. His stirrups are purposely small, so as to receive but two or

three toes, and when they have rode a great deal, quite a space is

formed between the toes, by the constant pressure of the stirrup. My

inference in regard to thus having the stirrups so small is, to prevent

the possibility of the entire foot being caught in the stirrups in case

a man is thrown from his mule, as it certainly cannot be for comfort or

convenience, either in mounting or riding with the bare feet.

The negro servants here much more frequently wear shoes than the

Portuguese camaradas or troupeiros, and the boy Joaquim who accompanies

Mr. Bennaton is well-dressed, and keeps himself neat and clean at all

times. He is out this morning with white pants and his hair combed and

braided in the most approved darkey style. He is beginning to understand

my little phrases of the Portuguese language, and seems disposed to

render me any assistance or service required.

When we set out this morning, shortly after five o’clock, it was not yet

clear daylight, and the atmosphere was quite cool, rendering our

overcoats indispensable for comfort. Indeed they have been used every

morning until 9 o’clock, but after that hour it becomes warm, and from

12 o’clock until 3 o’clock in the afternoon the sun is oppressively hot.

The heat here, however, is not greater than is experienced in the United

States during the summer months, and the temperature of this climate at

night is invariably more pleasant than in the Southern States.

All well know that the winter in the United States is during those

months which constitute the summer of Brazil; and vice versa, so that,

now, while it is becoming colder north of the equator, the heat is

increasing in this southern latitude.

Thus far, less inconvenience has been experienced from the heat than was

anticipated, and but for the protracted drought, which has parched the

earth, and retarded vegetation of every kind in this section, the

atmosphere would now be more agreeable during the middle of the day.

It is no part of my plan to eulogize the climate, or any other feature

of this country, except as the facts may warrant a favorable estimate.

Having an opportunity to judge of the nature of the climate in the

latter part of winter and spring, with the forthcoming summer, I may

determine with some certainty what will be its effects upon people from

our latitude, by my personal experience.

The range of the thermometer as yet has not exceeded 85° Fahrenheit; and

the sensible influence of the sun is not greater than I have experienced

at a corresponding season in South Carolina and Georgia.

Most of the region of country through which we passed to-day consisted

of plateau land rather sparsely timbered with large trees, and some of

it resembled the low lands a short distance from the banks of our

rivers. This was overgrown with shrubbery and bamboo cane, and having a

growth of small trees interspersed with large timber. The general aspect

of the surface was that of an undulating plain, but occasionally we

encountered a ravine of considerable depth, making the descent and

ascent rather difficult for our animals, and almost impracticable for

carts or wagons.

The supply of water was more deficient upon our route to-day than upon

any part of the road travelled heretofore; and however desirable land

might be here, the difficulty of procuring an adequate supply of water,

either for drinking or for machinery, would be a serious objection.

Twelve miles from our starting point we entered the town of Lemeire,

which has sprung up within a few years to a respectable size. Some of

the houses presented a very good appearance, but the usually dull aspect

of these mud-built houses gives a monotony to all these interior towns

which may excuse any detailed notice.

Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of

the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a

gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The

dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this

region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of

the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well

adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise well adapted to the

growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the

cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a

somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red

lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the

culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop

whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in

this crop.

At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador

José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the

English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was

to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In

extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he

had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me,

and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.

I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who

speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of

much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of

Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly

disposed, and very dignified in her manner.

We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after

a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with

nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of

the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every

thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved

by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr.

Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a

variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The

orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A

specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but there was only

a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or

for market.

Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most

sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was

again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much

prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is

used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from

our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr.

Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy,

as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise

the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here

called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the

land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.

In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and

Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and

sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were

thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here

engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each

bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow

a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most

saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live

upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty

outfit.

MONDAY, _October 9, 1865_.

Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to

take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his

reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I

said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)

Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I

trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.

We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive

establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.

The first step is to remove the outer hull of the berries, and for this

purpose he employs four dispolpadores, such as described at Settequéda,

each being capable of hulling five hundred bushels of the crude berries

in a day, making two thousand in a day when all are fully employed. Not

having a supply of water sufficient to move the machinery, or to float

the coffee into the apparatus, it has to be washed before going into the

dispolpadores if it should be dirty, and it may then be put in while

wet. After the hull is removed, the coffee grains having still their

separate investment, are dried in the ample tile-covered yard that is

adjoining the building. The cleaning process is conducted by two large

fans, and if any of the smaller grains slip through the sieve of the fan

without being entirely cleaned, they are submitted to hand sieves. Thus,

all the coffee is prepared for sacking. The specimens seen in the

building were entirely free from dust or any foreign matter, and the

proprietor states will command from two to five cents per pound more

than the rolled or pounded coffee.

The store-room contains an immense amount of uncleaned coffee, and the

crop made on this place this year is reckoned at fifty thousand arrobas,

or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of clean coffee. This is below the

annual average crop, and Senor Vergueiro thinks the blooming trees

indicate a larger yield for the next crop.

This coffee milling establishment is upon a much larger scale than that

of Settequéda, but there are a number of conveniences and improvements

in the latter, which the want of water does not admit here.

There is a saw-mill adjoining the coffee-mill, which is run by a

separate engine of four horse-power, and performs very satisfactorily

with a perpendicular saw.

In addition to these there is a cotton-gin, and packing apparatus under

the same roof.

An American cotton-gin of seventy saws is run by the same engine, of

eight horse-power, which works the coffee machinery. The compress or

packing apparatus is a pattern which has been in use for some years in

the United States, but is made upon a small scale to pack bales of

ninety-six pounds for transportation upon pack-mules.

The gin and compress were brought from Santos upon wagons drawn by oxen.

The ordinary hemp bagging is used here for covering the cotton, and the

sepo vine, which grows in this country abundantly, makes an admirable

substitute for roping. It is very unyielding, and being smooth, with a

facility for knotting, it fulfils all the indications completely and

economically.

The hull of the coffee, and the cotton seed, with the refuse from the

saw-mill, have constituted the fuel for the steam-engine, thus wasting

the cotton seed that might be made very profitable, either by converting

them into oil, or for manure. Upon bringing these matters to the

attention of Senor Vergueiro, he expressed his intention to cease this

destructive policy; and until he may be able to procure an apparatus for

the manufacture of the cotton seed oil, he proposes to accumulate his

seed, when it will be convenient to pour water upon them, if it should

not rain sufficient to wet them, and thus rot them for manure.

A blacksmith shop and a woodshop are in very successful operation,

making his own wagons, and machinery for all the purposes of his

extensive establishment; and all of good quality.

A large and well-arranged brickyard is brought into requisition for the

manufacture of brick, tiles, and earthen pipes, that are demanded about

the place; and his fazenda being within itself a village, the

consumption of these articles is very considerable throughout the year.

The negro quarters are adjoining the residence of the family, and

enclose a large court, in the centre of which is a belfry, and a lock-up

for such as become unruly. There is a hospital department, with an

office, where medicine is dispensed by the physician when his visits are

required.

The stables are large and well-arranged for feeding, and the stalls are

substantially floored with sawed plank, while there is an upper story

for hay.

A spacious and neat fowl-house has recently been constructed, connected

with an open grass lot, having a supply of water for the poultry.

The old coffee-mill and saw-mill, moved by water-power, are still

preserved in good running order on the place.

After dinner to-day we were supplied with fine saddle horses, and

accompanied Senor Vergueiro over his wide domain of a million coffee

trees and fine cotton lands. We rode rapidly over miles of winding roads

through the fields of coffee, stopping here and there to examine some

feature of special interest, either in the mode of management or the

development of the trees. Some had been growing there for twenty-six

years that still presented a vigorous appearance and afforded a good

yield of coffee this season. Others that were thirty-four years old have

been cut off eighteen inches above the ground, two years since, and have

again put forth branches, which present all the aspects of thriving

trees. They have borne a crop of coffee this season, and the blooms

afford a fine prospect for another year. This is a very interesting

feature in the management of the old trunks of the coffee, as the

advantages of a new growth are secured in one-half the time it could be

attained from a new plant. Even should the root require to be dug around

and manured, it would be far preferable to the uncertainty connected

with the growth of a new plant; and in lands of good quality it

certainly presents great advantages.

The stumps of the cotton stalk were also seen during our ride, which had

recently been cut off for the purpose of securing the growth of another

crop. There is a perennial growth of the cotton plant in this latitude,

from the absence of frost; and by simply cutting away the limbs in the

early spring another development ensues, which produces a larger yield

than the first crop; and it is supposed that it may be cut off again at

the end of the second year, and produce for the third time a full crop

of cotton.

Thus the risks attending the sprouting and the early growth of the plant

are avoided here; and as the evidence is conclusive that the yield of

the second year is superior to that of the first, the advantages for the

culture of cotton in this country gives it a preference to the southern

part of the United States. The additional element of slave labor here is

likely to afford results that cannot be secured by hired labor in the

Southern States; and so soon as the negroes have become acquainted with

the proper mode of working the cotton, we may anticipate yields of this

staple exceeding any that have ever been realized in the United States.

The production of cotton here already is stated to reach two thousand

pounds of seed cotton to the acre; and if this is a uniform yield of

good land with good culture it is a decided success. There is not so

much labor bestowed upon the plant here as in the Southern States, and

the hoe is the only implement employed in the culture of this, or any

thing else. It will appear marvellous to our heroic cotton planters that

no preparatory ploughing is done, and that not even a hoe is used in

planting the seed. The process, as I observed it here, consists in a

negro scratching a place in the ground with his hand, and making three

or four holes with the end of a stick, into which seeds of cotton are

dropped and covered with the hand. This is done at distances of two and

a half feet, and sticks of wood or pieces of cane are stuck into the

ground to mark the place, and by this means to preserve right lines for

the rows. Note this, ye planters of cotton in the Southern States, and

think how painstaking you are to develop the growth of cotton in its

several stages; yet here, in Brazil, it grows and matures well without

culture of any kind. If cotton can be relied upon here to yield an

average crop without labor, what may be expected from proper preparation

of the soil for receiving the seed, and thorough working of the ground

during the early growth of the plant.

Finding that the root of the cotton remained in the ground during the

winter without injury, Senor Vergueiro supposed an advantage might be

gained by planting the cotton seed during the winter, so that it might

sprout up and commence growing in the earliest portion of the spring. He

planted accordingly a considerable piece of ground in the month of May,

which is in this latitude very nearly as November in the State of

Louisiana. The prospect is quite unfavorable from present appearance of

the plants, and he expects to replant the land, with the exception of a

small space, to test fully the experiment. Had he known how much depends

upon the disappearance of all frost, and the warming of the earth under

the genial suns of the spring, as a preliminary to cotton planting, in

the land where experience is the guide to success, this experiment would

not have been necessary to convince him that nothing could be gained by

the planting of the seed in the cold season, though there might be no

frost to kill the plant.

Senor Vergueiro deserves great credit, however, for the boldness and

energy with which he has urged forward his improvements, and others are

now profiting by his enterprise in the domain of agriculture and the

arts.

He produces all the corn requisite to raise hogs for his consumption,

and also for a large number of horses and mules, keeping a pack of the

latter to assist in transporting his coffee to market. He cures a

considerable amount of hay for the use of his animals in winter, when

the grass does not grow so abundantly; and I have heard of no other

person in the country who gives any attention to haymaking.

Thus we find this fazendeiro combines all the various interests that

conduce to the comfort of his family and the welfare of the large number

of colonists and slaves who are dependent upon him for supplies. His

extensive fazenda is emphatically a self-sustaining establishment, and

he lives within himself to a very large extent. He grows his own beef

and mutton, as well as his hogs, and his table is always supplied with

the best that is found anywhere in the country.

Of course, there are many things which must come from other parts, and

he avails himself of all the importations that may render a household

comfortable, or a table desirable. Though hams are not cured here, the

finest was found upon his table; and though flour comes from abroad, the

choice varieties of flour bread, as well as other kinds, showed the

domestic management of the estimable senhora most satisfactorily.

TUESDAY, _October 10, 1865_.

We took our leave this morning of our kind friends at Ybicaba, and with

a guide furnished by Senor José Vergueiro, we set out for the fazenda of

Senor Rafael Paes de Barros, son of the Baron of Rerecicoba.

Our route lay through a region having a very large growth of timber, and

we saw trees of eight feet in diameter, which gives twenty-four feet

around the base of the trunk. The soil in this vicinity is of a dark red

or purple color, and of a loose loamy consistence. It is the richest

land of this country, and produces to great advantage all the crops

usually planted here; yet some planters think this rich purple soil,

that is known here as “terra rocha,” is not so well adapted to the

culture of cotton as the land which has an admixture of sand.

We reached São Antonio, the residence of Senor Barros, about 12 o’clock,

and he met us in the front yard with an open expression of hospitality,

which made me feel that his words of welcome were not a mere empty

sound.

After showing us his cotton house, where he had a large quantity of

cotton in the seed, he took us to his recently-constructed gin-house,

where the machinery is moved by water-power. He has a thirty-saw gin of

American manufacture, and a small screw of his own make, which will meet

his present wants; but so soon as his large force is employed in growing

cotton, the appliances for preparing it for market must be greatly

increased.

His experiment in the culture of cotton has been entirely satisfactory,

and he considers the crop of great importance with the present high

price in Rio.

The article grown here is of better quality than most of the cotton

grown in the Southern States, and the fibre is not only longer and

finer, but it is evidently stronger than our cotton. Some small

specimens of the sea island cotton have been seen, which grew in this

region of country, and they presented a beautiful silky-looking fibre;

yet the size of the bolls, and the general yield of the stalks, does not

afford encouragement to grow it rather than the other qualities of

cotton.

Upon this fazenda there are four hundred thousand coffee trees, of which

two hundred and eighty thousand are bearing fruit, and the others are

young trees recently planted out.

Being invited to remain for dinner, we enjoyed a most abundant supply of

the substantials, as well as the delicacies of the table.

Senhora manifested her respect by meeting us with a bow before going to

her seat at the table, and though she made but few remarks during the

dinner, this was simply in accordance with the recognized rôle of

females in society here. A lady in Brazil is kept secluded to a great

extent, and is rarely seen in a parlor with gentlemen, except they may

be intimate friends of the family. When seen at the table, she is

usually seated by her husband, or if he is at the end of the table her

position is adjacent to the corner upon his right or left hand, and

guests are seated on the opposite side.

In the case of young ladies the restrictions are still greater, and with

the existing regime, I don’t understand how gentlemen become

sufficiently intimate with young ladies to form a basis of marriage. Yet

matrimonial alliances are here formed very early, and perhaps in part

influenced by the desire of the parent to transfer the guardianship of

his daughter to other hands, so that he may be relieved of the sense of

responsibility. I am told that it is not uncommon for girls to be

married as early as they reach the age of thirteen or fourteen years.

The physical development of females in this climate is much in advance

of those in colder latitudes, and they become mothers in Brazil before

females in the United States are considered marriageable. Not only is

their vigor of frame thus impaired, but the cultivation of their minds

is in like manner arrested by the cares which must necessarily devolve

upon them, and really it seems that the evil of secluding females from

the freedom of society brings with it a host of other evils. If the

cause be corrected, the effects will be remedied as a natural

consequence.

Senor Barras very kindly proposed to furnish me letters to parties who

might aid me in the prosecution of my objects, and with the assurance of

his cordial good wishes we proceeded on our line of travel in the

afternoon.

After a pleasant ride of three miles across the country, in which the

Rio Claro was crossed, we reached the town known by the name of São João

de Rio Claro. It is constructed chiefly with one-story houses, after the

style of other interior towns through which we passed, yet there is more

of neatness in their appearance, and in the order of the streets, than

has been noted elsewhere.

We called, with a letter of introduction, upon Tenente Coronel Senor

José Estaninlaus D’Oliveiro, the commandant of the national guard for

this district.

He has recently proposed to give one hundred dollars to every citizen of

his district who would volunteer for the active service of the war.

When my mission was explained to him, he signified his readiness to aid

me, and said his house was open for me or any of my friends whenever it

might suit us to stop with him. He gave us an invitation to spend the

night at his house, but my object being to see as much of the country as

possible, I thanked him for his kind offer, and departed with his best

wishes.

In proceeding from Rio Claro we encountered the first open plains I had

seen, and with a poor sandy soil; there was scarcely grass sufficient to

sustain the cattle that were here and there scattered over these campo

lands.

For several miles the monotony was only broken by a few huge ant-hills,

that seemed to be the result of some considerable excavation of the

earth, and the inquiry was naturally suggested whether the people had

been digging for gold or making a well for water.

This striking contrast of barren plains, in close proximity to the

richest forest lands, is a very remarkable characteristic of this

section.

After passing a large area of this waste land, we reached another

fazenda of Senor José Vergueiro, called Angelica, where he awaited our

arrival, and repeated the kindly reception which had been extended to us

at Ybicaba. This place is ten miles from Rio Claro, and consists of

twenty-six thousand acres of land. Much of this large domain is campo

land, of little value; and yet there is an immense body of very valuable

land, a part being under cultivation in coffee, sugar-cane, cotton,

corn, rice, beans, &c., while there is yet a large portion of original

forest that is favorably located and of good quality.

The buildings on this place are of huge proportions, and the machinery

adapted to all the practical operations of the various departments of

industry. Water-power is used for a saw-mill, a grist-mill and a

coffee-mill, while oxen are employed in running a wooden mill for the

sugar-cane.

The facilities here for conducting the various kinds of business are not

equal to those at Ybicaba, yet the basis is here for indefinite

additions and improvements in the appliances, and the energy of the

proprietor is likely to render all its resources available for efficient

operation.

This place was formerly the family residence of the father and mother of

Senor Vergueiro, and the name, Angelica, is that of his mother.

His father was a man of considerable note, and was for a time regent of

the empire during the minority of the present Emperor. He has been dead

several years, and this property is held jointly by the heirs, but under

the control of the gentleman above-named, who expects to make it the

counterpart of Ybicaba.

Upon this place there is a mill-race, four miles long, but even then the

water reaches only midway the immense wheel, making it a breast-wheel,

however, of immense power, by the large column of water.

All the negroes came into the house to salute their master, with the

customary placing of hands together, and saying “Santa Christ,”[14]

which is an abbreviation for “Louvado seja nosso senhor Jesus Christ,”

that is said by almost every negro in meeting a white person.

WEDNESDAY, _October 11, 1865_.

Having enjoyed a comfortable bed for the night, we had a cup of coffee

upon rising this morning, and afterwards joined Senor Vergueiro in

making an examination of a very substantial and neat residence of

sandstone, which has been recently erected on this place. The sandstone

is procured from a quarry located upon the lands of the fazenda, and

when dressed makes a very excellent wall. The general plan of the house

was made by Senor Vergueiro, but the services of an engineer named Shelb

have been called into requisition for the embellishments, and the result

is very creditable to both. Although the building is not large, it has

the lower story arranged for machinery, with a large water-wheel on the

side of the house, but so covered as not to attract the attention of one

taking an outside view of the building. This structure is an ornament to

the place, and indicates progress in the architectural designs of the

country.

We were shown here a plan of the lands belonging to this fazenda, which

had been executed by the above-named engineer. It displays all the

different kinds of soil, with the distinction of growth upon each; the

campo lands having a very scanty and scrubby growth, the matto virgem

being covered with the large original forest trees, and the capoeira

with small trees that have sprung up on land which was formerly under

cultivation. It is a large colored map, evidently made with great care,

after a regular survey of the premises, made by contract with the

proprietor.

After breakfast we rode out to take an extended view of the lands under

cultivation, and the woodlands that lay convenient for observation. On

the way, we passed the houses occupied by the colonists employed on this

place, and I counted twenty-four double houses, making forty-eight

tenements, for the separate families. Each family has a piece of ground

attached to the house, or located at a convenient distance, so that corn

and vegetables may be grown for their own use.

The contract with the proprietor only requires their services in

gathering coffee from the trees, and for this labor they are paid what

is considered to be one-half the value of the crude berries that are

gathered. The estimate placed upon an alqueric—corresponding to our

bushel—of the crude coffee berries, is seventy-five cents; and unless

the crop is good, ordinary hands do not gather more than two bushels per

day. Yet when the trees are very full, and the person is industrious and

skilful, from five to eight bushels may be gathered in one day.

The lands planted in coffee at this place are not of the best quality,

and yet the crop seems to have been fair, judging from those trees which

have not yet been gathered.

The corn and beans being but little above the ground, no estimate can be

formed as to what the crop may be; and the same in regard to rice which

has been planted. But the general impression received from riding

through the plantation was not particularly favorable to its fertility,

nor does the ground lie favorably for cultivation.

We rode through a large body of woodland, which gave indications of a

fair quality of soil, and lay very advantageously for cultivation. Yet

it is not of that purple aspect which characterizes the best soil; and I

do not see upon this place any of the terra rocha which abounds at

Ybicaba. I was led to infer that this was perhaps the most favorable

view which could be taken of the premises, as my proposition to traverse

the territory in another direction, in the afternoon, did not meet the

acquiescence of Senor Vergueiro, and yet he proposes to sell a part or

the whole of this extensive tract of land. He does not make known his

terms, and I don’t think that any portion of the vast area of this

fazenda fulfils the conditions for a desirable settlement.

Captain Carvalho, an old gentleman of sixty-five years of age, is the

administrator at Angelica; and seems to be treated with much respect by

the proprietor. He is regarded as the best authority respecting persons

or places within twenty miles of this fazenda, and has rendered us

important service in these respects. His wife is a young, hale, buxom

woman, who looks as if she might welcome another husband at the demise

of this frail old man. She did not take a seat at the table with us, nor

did she make her appearance often in the room. The women of this medium

class of people have not usually presented themselves when we have

visited their houses, nor are they ever seen at the table during meals.

I wrote a long communication from this place for the information of my

friends, which was sent to my wife, along with a private letter to her.

THURSDAY, _October 12, 1865_.

Having secured a guide for the various parts of the country which we

expected to visit, we left Angelica this morning, and came a distance of

twelve miles to the fazenda of Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo. A

letter from him was given to his administrator, Senor Antonio, who

seemed at the outset to be at a loss what disposition to make of us and

our rather large retinue. Ere long, however, we got into the house, and

our baggage being brought in, he gave directions for the care of the

stock. We soon found, also, that arrangements were in a state of

progress for giving us dinner, which proved to be a good substantial

meal.

In the afternoon he conducted us to a portion of woodland, also to a

field planted recently with coffee trees, and having a crop of corn and

beans interspersed with it.

I was surprised to find this soil very superior to that about the

location of the building, and was impressed with the importance of

making a thorough investigation of the adjacent territory. We went in a

southeasterly direction to the foot of the serra, through a virgin

forest of three miles in extent, and most of the growth indicated

fruitfulness of the soil. At this point, the land under cultivation

presented a good appearance, and the old corn-stalks showed a good

result for the past year. There was also between this and the woods some

open pasture, which had a fine crop of grass, and we suggested that our

animals be sent here to graze, while we should be furnished from the

fazenda for to-morrow’s ride.

FRIDAY, _October 13, 1865_.

Mounted upon the plantation-mules, we rode at an early hour with Senor

Antonio to visit the plantation, which runs along the foot of the serra,

in an easterly direction from the site of the houses. The coffee trees

were the chief objects of interest, and presented the aspect of vigorous

development. Most of them had been stripped entirely or partially, and

no correct opinion could be formed as to their yield from the statements

of the man in charge.

A small piece of land had been planted last year in cotton, and the

stalks, which had been cut off preparatory to another crop, indicated

only a moderate development. There was a considerable extent of ground

open for pasture that lay favorably for cultivation, and from the size

of the old, deadened trees still standing upon it, the prospect would be

good for a yield of cotton.

Within a half-mile from the foot of the serra, for more than a mile in

length, the soil was of a reddish aspect, with a considerable proportion

of sand, and as it receded beyond this distance from the serra, the

increase of sand was such as to render the soil unproductive.

In all directions around the houses of this fazenda a barren campo

extends to a considerable distance, and the land is not even suitable

for pasture, as the grass which grows upon it is not eaten by the horses

or cows to any extent, nor does it prove nutritious.

After returning from this visit to the coffee field, we were joined by

Major Manuel Reginaldo de Morars Salles, who breakfasted with us, and

then showed us another extensive portion of the lands. Taking the main

road towards the southeast, upon which we started yesterday evening, we

continued upon it, as the boundary of the land, for two miles.

Though the trees growing along this line, for more than a mile from the

point of divergence yesterday evening, were large and numerous, yet the

sand predominated in an increasing ratio, rendering the soil of little

value. We then travelled for three miles through a barren campo,

constituting the border of the tract, when a virgin forest was entered,

through which we rode about half a mile into the better quality of land

near the serra. Here the land was productive, but was very irregular,

and liable to wash under cultivation, as there was more or less sand

mixed with it. We did not find here, as at the northern portion of the

serra, that dark red soil which always has more solidity than the sandy

soil, and, hence, less liability to wash away by the rains.

From this point we emerged, on a different line from that by which we

entered, and soon encountered a sterile region following round the

border of the tract for a mile, through a complete waste of sandy campo

land.

We at length came to a considerable stream, upon which there is an

advantageous site for machinery, and were the better quality of lands

near this point, the facility for securing this fine water-power would

constitute quite a recommendation to the place. But the desirable lands

are all at some miles distance, and a very bad route for the

construction of roads from them to this point. We encountered at a house

here a grove of delicious oranges, upon which we all feasted to our

utmost capacity.

Reviewing the impressions of yesterday evening and to-day, I would

conjecture that this body of land extends about six miles in length from

northwest to southeast, and that its average width from the serra was

two and a half miles, making nine thousand and six hundred acres of

land. Of this, I would consider one-third as utterly worthless, and

another third as only suited for pasturage, while the remaining three

thousand and two hundred acres is good land, and lies advantageously for

cultivation.

The administrator stated that there were seventy thousand (70,000)

coffee trees bearing fruit, and twenty thousand (20,000) trees which

have been planted at different times within the past two years, while

there are ten thousand (10,000) plants recently set out. Of course, the

value of the property is increased by the growth of these coffee trees,

as every tree bearing fruit makes an annual income, and the estimated

value of each plant when it commences to yield is twenty cents.

The territory over which we have passed has many small streams of water

convenient to the different sections of the land, and the water was

clear and pleasant to drink.

The land under cultivation lies in two separate localities, and yet both

near the serra. The most elevated grounds in this country seem to be the

most fertile, having, in the best localities, a dark red loamy soil;

while the level lands, either in low flats or in plateaus, are composed

largely of sand, and have little adaptation to agricultural purposes.

The chief growth upon the campos are a harsh grass and a wild fern, with

here and there a few scrubby trees of small size.[15]

SATURDAY, _October 14, 1865_.

We arose at daylight this morning and getting a cup of coffee rode five

miles through campo lands, to the Rio Roque, (River Rock.) At the point

visited another small stream, with a five-mile site, runs into this

river; and should any one locate near this place it would be available

for machinery requiring but little water-power.

Senor Antonio Rodriguez Foone, the administrator, who was specially

charged with the duty of showing us these lands, referred to an old

woman living in a house near by, and was told by her that the lands

beyond the Rio Roque belonged to the property; and as he supposed the

property extended up the western side, we preferred to explore this

without crossing the river. We rode up for nearly a mile, and found that

the nature of the soil and the configuration of the surface were very

well adapted for cultivation. The timber upon it is large, and much of

it having a long, straight trunk, which would adapt it admirably for

building. The soil near the road is of that dark red loamy order which

is considered the most productive in the country. This taken in

connection with the more elevated woodlands lying on the opposite side

of the stream, would form a good settlement for several families, and

the general aspects are favorable for health.

After returning from this visit we passed through a body of land lying

in a southwest course from the buildings, and about one mile distant. It

lies very favorably, and is evidently superior to most of the lands on

this place. The soil is that dark red loam which constitutes terra

rocha, and the timber is much the same as that of the land described

upon the Roque. If there is any considerable extent of these lands they

would form an offset to the larger proportion of worthless land

belonging to this fazenda. On this point, as on others connected with

dimensions, our guide could give me no information, so that I am left to

the broad domain of surmise.

In forming an approximate estimate of the lands traversed this morning,

I am without any other criterion than the probabilities based upon what

I saw and what Senor Antonio supposed to be the outline of the fazenda.

The figures used in my calculation for the other portion of the land

will correspond very well to my ideas of the extent of territory here,

and we may say it is six miles long by two and a half miles wide, making

nine thousand six hundred acres. The land previously spoken of lies

westward and northward from the houses, and making a line from the

southern end of the serra across by the buildings to the boundary,

leaves all the land south and east to be included in the observation of

this morning.

This entire area does not perhaps contain over two thousand acres of

productive land,[16] and the rest is of a quality that cannot be made

available for any practical object, save it might be for a glass

factory, from the immense beds of sand accumulated on this barren waste.

We left Morro Grande, the fazenda of Senor João, and went twenty miles

northwest to the house of Captain Feliciana.

SUNDAY, _October 15, 1865_.

Having enjoyed the plain and substantial hospitality of our old friend

the Capitão, as men who are hungry and tired always do, we saw no reason

for detention during the day, and set out at an early hour, accompanied

by our host, to the fazenda of Senor Dom Francisco Antonio de Sonza

Queiroz.

A dignified and yet courteous reception was soon followed by the

assignment to very comfortable quarters, and the furnishing of a most

excellent breakfast.

His own wife, and the wife of Senor Dom Francisco Aguiar de Barros,

graced the table with their presence; and the style of every thing

indicated the refinement and elegance of the families. The gentlemen

were so situated at the table as to separate their wives from the

guests, which seems to be one of the relics of the olden times that

clings to the people of the best class.

These two gentlemen own lands adjoining each other, and both having

recently opened up their fazendas, Dom Barros has not yet got his

buildings arranged for his residence; and his wife being a sister of Dom

Queiroz the families are living together.

Every thing about the establishment is conducted with much neatness and

good taste; and the dinner table, with its rich service of silver and

variety of dishes, had an air of completeness that would do credit to

any society. Our tea-table, also, was a type of the best order of

things; and, though the ladies left before the retiring of the

gentlemen, it must have been a great relief to get away when not

partaking in the conversation. With this class of people tea is not

served until half-past eight o’clock; and after the table is cleared the

party sit around and chat until the hour of retiring for the night. When

a social group are thrown with one another at tea, this is doubtless

very pleasant; but not understanding much that was said on the part of

others, and disliking to call upon Mr. Bennaton to interpret commonplace

remarks either from myself or others, I found this tarrying around the

tea-table quite a patience-trying ordeal.

I observe here, as elsewhere, that there is a long, slim pole erected in

the front yard, with an emblem of some saint on a piece of cloth in a

frame, attached to the top of the pole. They are called saint-poles, and

the figure is changed in commemoration of each particular saint’s day.

At every house that has been passed or visited, without distinction of

the class of people, where Roman Catholics reside, this emblem of their

faith is to be seen. Though the figures are usually of the most uncouth

aspect and clumsy execution, it is supposed that holy associations cling

around them, and they are retained even when tattered and defaced by the

elements.

In connection with this it is particularly becoming to refer to the

habit among the negroes, which has attracted my attention at several of

the fazendas, and which was observed here this evening. After the

forming of all in a line, for the purpose of counting them at night,

they repaired to the rear apartment of the building, occupied by the

family, and all kneeling down they rehearsed a religious service, in

which they were lead by one of their number. After this all retired to

their respective lodgings for the night.

I observed that a similar proceeding was conducted in the yard where the

negroes were mustered or formed into line, at the fazenda of Senor João

Robiero de Santos Carmargo, and it is doubtless a part of the routine

whenever any considerable number of negroes are collected.

Were it really a service of the heart, and not a mere outward ceremony,

there would be an appropriateness and impressive solemnity in thus

looking to God for his blessing at the close of the day’s labor.

But while a few of the number may have some sense of reverence for God

associated with this daily observance, it is evident that the greater

part join in it as a mere matter of routine.

The mustering and counting of the negroes at night is usually done in

front of the residence of the owner, and he thus has the assurance that

all are present. I learn that the habit of running away is not uncommon

here, and at some places the sound of the shackles has been heard when

the negroes were assembled, though nothing of the kind was brought to my

attention in this establishment.

In some instances the shackles are put on their ankles only at night to

keep them in their quarters, while in others they are kept on while at

work as a matter of punishment, and I saw at one fazenda a very old

woman with shackles on her ankles while she was employed in stirring the

coffee that was drying. She had been guilty of poisoning other negroes,

and was regarded as a very dangerous person to go at large.

My observation of slavery in this country leads me to the conclusion

that the exactions from the negro are greater, and the provision for his

subsistence and comfort less than was experienced formerly in the United

States.

MONDAY, _October 16, 1865_.

After a pleasant rest for the night, we were regaled this morning before

rising with a most excellent cup of coffee, which, it will be observed,

is a part of the hospitality in every well-regulated household.

In due course of time our breakfast came, and, along with other

articles, we enjoyed “Café corn leite” and excellent corn bread, made of

fine meal.

This “Café corn leite” is prepared by boiling the milk with the coffee,

and is so great an improvement upon the simple mixture of milk or cream

with coffee that it ought to be resorted to generally by our people who

are fond of this combination for breakfast.

Being supplied with horses by our host, we rode out with him to see his

newly-opened plantation, called Fazenda Nova, passing in our route the

site he has selected for building upon, whenever time is allowed for

erecting a family residence. His brickyard and saw-mill are in

successful operation, and the latter is a well-arranged perpendicular

saw, that performs admirably, even in the hard material of the timber in

all this country.

I have as yet seen no instance of a circular saw in operation here, and

it certainly would be better adapted to the compact and hard wood which

has to be encountered in sawing.

The coffee trees on this place have all been set out within the past two

years, and some of them have been planted very recently. In all there

are one hundred and forty thousand, and the number is still to be

extended.

The lands under cultivation are, for the most part, elevated, and of the

dark red terra rocha, being of very superior quality for the coffee.

We visited also the newly-opened fazenda[17] of Senor Dom Barros, and I

there had the opportunity of witnessing the burning of a “roça,” or new

ground, of twelve acres, upon which the timber had been simply felled

and partially dried. The land being scraped around to prevent extension

of the fire, all the negroes were posted at regular intervals to guard

the progress of the conflagration, and the fallen timber was then fired

in various places.

It was an interesting sight, as illustrating the custom of all the

planters in Brazil for preparing their lands to receive the seed for the

first time; and, with the heat of a boiling sun, in addition to the heat

of the fire, I found that “distance lends enchantment to the view.”

In riding through the sun to-day I was more affected by its heat than at

any time previously, and though it may look something like adopting the

doctrine of “Similia similibus curantur,” I resorted to the use of

strong coffee, with decidedly good result. At the new structure of Senor

Barros we found excellent coffee prepared for us, and with a sense of

depression from my exposure to the hot sun, I drank two cups of the

ordinary size in the United States, which relieved me greatly; and, upon

going out again, I did not experience so much inconvenience from the

heat, though the sun was beaming down its rays with even greater

intensity than before. This stimulant evidently lessened the influence

of the sun.

The thermometer stands to-night at 80° Fahrenheit, and was doubtless 90°

at two o’clock P. M., as it is very sensibly cooler since the sun

disappeared, while a pleasant breeze always fans the earth at night.

Some valuable information was received from Dom Queiroz to-day, in

regard to the employment by contract, of men having negroes under their

control, from the province of Minas. These negroes have been heretofore

employed upon coffee estates which have ceased to be profitable in that

section, and the owners are sending them to this comparatively new

region, under responsible overseers, to contract with the landowners for

their labor. They go into the virgin forest, clear it up after the style

of the country, and plant young coffee trees furnished by the landowner,

which are to be cared for, and the intervening space of land cultivated

on their own account during four years; at the end of which time, the

field is turned over to the owner, with the coffee trees yielding fruit.

In consideration of this service, the landowner pays to the contractor

twenty cents for each coffee tree which is growing and ready to yield;

and if any cash is advanced to him prior to the end of the fourth year,

he gives guarantees for the fulfilment of his stipulation, and pays

twelve per cent. per annum interest upon the money thus received. The

contractor supplies himself with tools, and his hands with provisions,

or other articles needed, so that the landowner is not responsible in

any way for them.

During the first two years, the contractor may plant whatever crop he

chooses between the rows of the coffee trees, but the owner has the

right to dictate what shall be planted in the subsequent two years; and

as the growth of the plants may be impaired by the presence of high corn

or other things calculated to shade them, these may be forbidden.

Should the coffee commence yielding before the expiration of the four

years, the contractor obligates himself to gather the crop, and turn

over one-half of it to the owner of the land.

The advantage to the contractor consists in having the use of land for

four years, in consideration of clearing it, and the twenty cents per

tree is very full pay for the labor and attention bestowed upon the

coffee plants.

On the other hand, the owner, having a large amount of land without

sufficient force to do all this heavy work, gets his land put in good

order for cultivation, and has the coffee trees upon it bearing fruit.

Considering that four hundred and sixteen (416) trees grow upon one acre

of ground, his improved land costs him eighty-three dollars ($83) per

acre; and the question arises, could not day-laborers have been employed

throughout this period for the same outlay of money, who would have

given the owner the annual return from the cultivation of the lands, in

addition to the final growth of the coffee trees?

I learn that one man can clear and plant in the course of a year ten

acres of land, and the same man can of course cultivate it in a crop of

provisions during subsequent years. This man can be hired to work, and

find himself, certainly at one dollar a day for the working days of the

year, which may be put down at three hundred dollars, which for four

years will be twelve hundred dollars.

For this amount, I have had my annual provisions from the land, and my

coffee trees are now ready to yield me an annual crop. If this sum now

is reduced by subtracting the value of the crop for each of the three

last years, at the rate of thirty dollars per acre for each year, making

nine hundred dollars, it leaves but three hundred dollars of outlay for

my coffee trees; or thirty dollars per acre, instead of the eighty-three

dollars per acre paid out by the system of contract.

In this point of view, it is evident that our friend Dom Queiroz and

others who make this arrangement with the negro contractors are paying

very exorbitant rates of hire. I have purposely placed the rate of

day-labor far above the rate usually paid in this country; and it is not

usual to pay a caipira or Portuguese more than five dollars a month, and

furnish him lodging and provisions, which in cash outlay will not exceed

one-half of the sum specified in my calculations.

It behooves our people to consider all these things in making their

arrangements, and not fall into any plan of operations because others

are doing it.

In estimating the increased value of lands, with a full stand of coffee

trees bearing fruit, the calculation may with more propriety be based

upon the estimate of twenty cents per tree, because you receive an

immediate return for the investment, of from three to six pounds of

coffee per tree, annually, which will be worth, free of all expense,

twenty cents the first year for each tree, and thus repay the entire

outlay.

One of the incidents of travel in this country has been encountered

to-night, by finding a bicho or chigre embedded in one of my toes. A

little darkey was called to identify the parasite; and a “tropeiro”

extracted it, with the nidus complete, making a very nice operation.

TUESDAY, _October 17, 1865_.