Leaving our pleasant associations at Nova Fazenda this morning, we came

in company with Dom Queiroz and Captain Feliciana to the residence of

Senor João Franco da Morars. He had a most sumptuous breakfast in

readiness for us, which was enjoyed very much after our ride of six

miles across the country.

Setting out after 10 o’clock, we rode over the land which this gentleman

proposes to sell. The extensive tract of Babylonia is connected at one

point with the land upon which he resides. The former consists of ten

thousand and two hundred (10,200) acres, and the latter of three

thousand (3,000) acres, making together thirteen thousand two hundred

(13,200) acres of land.

The body of land known as Babylonia consists of the possessions of a

number of persons, as follows:

João Franco da Morars, 3,540 acres; José da Lacerda Guimarans, 3,600

acres; Aranjo Lima, 420 acres; José Goncalves, 840 acres; José Estivão,

780 acres; Prudenta, 540 acres; José Ignacio, 252 acres; Bento Ribeiro,

252 acres; and the residence of João Franco da Morars, 3,000 acres.

Price of lands in Babylonia, $4.50 per acre.

Price of residence of Senor João, $5.00 per acre.

Between the last-named and the rest of the land there intervenes

partially a portion of another fazenda, called Quilombo, which it is

thought can be had upon similar terms as the above.

The stream Ribeirão dos Negros forms the boundary for a short distance

upon the north of the first-named tract, and then penetrates the lands

of Babylonia; supplying water convenient to other portions, and having

several considerable falls which might be made available for any extent

of machinery.

The surface of the land is irregular, and in some parts mountainous,

inclining from either side towards the water, which traverses the entire

extent of the lands. Upon the tract enumerated as that of José Goncalves

there is an elevated plateau of perhaps one hundred acres which lies

favorably, and has a stream of water running across it through an

artificial channel. By means of this small stream a monjolo is worked at

two different places; and the soil is of good quality, while the site

for building is very advantageous. Upon a portion of this plateau,

twenty thousand (20,000) coffee plants are growing from the seed, which

are two years old and look thriving, but are still small. When the seed

are planted in the places where the tree is to grow, it is thought to

have some advantages; yet the almost universal custom is to transplant

from a nursery the rundas or young sprouts when they have remained for

one year, and thus the stand is perhaps rendered more certain and

uniform.

If several families should combine in purchasing these lands, a hamlet

or village might be formed upon the plateau spoken of, and each have

sufficient ground in connection with their dwellings to raise vegetables

and necessary supplies. Those employed as laborers could be located upon

their respective tracts of land, and thus be separated from their

dwellings. In this way children might have a common school, and many

arrangements for the common benefit of the families could be made

convenient to this site, while the water could be carried to any point

it might be desired. The soil upon most of the hillsides is of good

quality and free from frost, so as to be suitable for planting coffee.

Tobacco was seen growing upon this place, as a second crop from the

stalks which had been previously cut off, and though the result did not

appear favorable, it would repay the trouble of gathering. This region

produces tobacco very satisfactorily; and the neighboring section of

Belem (a contraction of Bethlehem) is regarded as particularly well

suited for the culture of this plant. The mode of preparing the tobacco

for market, here and elsewhere in the country, is to work it into a kind

of rope, with the hands, that is, coiled round a piece of wood two and a

half or three feet long, so that it may be conveniently shipped upon the

pack-mules. It presents a very dark, oily aspect, as if some foreign

ingredient were used in its preparation, and yet this is said to be

simply the exudation of the juice, which results from the manipulation.

This tobacco is strong, but not regarded as equal in quality to that

manufactured in Virginia; and my friends who used tobacco attributed

this inferiority to the want of proper treatment in this Brazilian

twist.

In other provinces of Brazil, more northward, I am informed that the

leaf-tobacco is packed in bales, and shipped largely to England and

other places, for making segars, or for other processes of manufacture

that enhance its value.

The soil and climate are said to be well adapted to the growth of

tobacco in all parts of the country.

WEDNESDAY, _October 18, 1865_.

We parted from our old friend Captain Feliciana, the courteous and kind

Dom Queiroz, and our host, Senor Franco, at nine o’clock this morning.

Captain Feliciana is a plain, unassuming, genteel person, who has

manifested his regard for us by going the entire round with us since

leaving his own premises, and though over fifty-five years of age, he

manifests considerable activity in exploring the country, and has really

been of much service to us in communicating information of this region.

Dom Queiroz speak a little English, and relieved my embarrassment by the

gentleness and urbanity of his bearing towards me during our sojourn at

his house and our association subsequently. When I bade him good-bye, he

said, in terms that required premeditation, with his limited use of

English, “If I can be of any service to you at any time, call upon me.

You will find me here, ready to serve you; and I am at your orders.”

Under other circumstances, this might have been viewed as a mere passing

remark; but, having found him so unassuming in his hospitality

previously, this kindness manifested at our parting was highly

appreciated.

Our host, Senor Franco, has manifested the greatest generosity in

supplying our wants, and also in providing for our animals and

attendants.

He had a very interesting daughter, who had met us at the outset in the

dining-room, and at each meal subsequently, causing us to take quite an

interest in her dignified management during the indisposition of her

mother. When we were ready to leave the house, Mr. Bennaton asked for

her, and we shook hands with her, and gave her our best wishes at

parting.

Senor Franco said that I would come with my friends to live amongst

them, if I knew how much gratification it would afford the people of the

country.

He kindly sent a negro man with us, to pilot the road, and we reached

the residence of Senor Maj. Joaquim Roberto de Silveira at 4 o’clock P.

M.; we got dinner promptly, but there being no corn on the place for our

stock, he sent off to a neighbor, and after some hours procured only

half a bushel, which affords but half a feed for night and morning.

He has recently settled this place, and has not yet made a crop of corn,

which explains very satisfactorily his deficiency; but it was supposed

that others in the neighborhood would have made a crop of corn, and

could have responded to his call in a larger quantity than he procured.

In asking him to procure the corn, Mr. Bennaton expected to pay for it,

but he would receive nothing for it, and accommodated us, as all have

done, in the true spirit of hospitality.

This section of country presents an admixture of campo and forest lands;

the former being a light, sandy, barren waste; while the latter vary

considerably in quality. Most of the woodland seen to-day was near the

premises of our host, and though it looked as if cotton might be grown

advantageously, there was a large element of sand, which predisposed it

to wash, when there was much irregularity of surface. It had a dark gray

aspect, and corresponded more to the character of soil seen in some

parts of South Carolina than any land yet seen in Brazil, and may

produce equally well.

THURSDAY, _October 19, 1865_.

After an early breakfast, we were supplied with a negro guide by Major

Silveira, and travelling through a region that was almost entirely

campo, we proceeded twelve miles to the residence of Senor Major José

Maria Gavião, at São José.

In his absence, we were kindly received by his family; and upon his

arrival, we had the strongest demonstration of his generous hospitality.

He not only treated us with the best he had to eat and drink, but

supplied us with fine horses to ride over his plantation.

He has only established himself here a few years, and yet his

arrangements are very complete. He has a large tract of land lying

remarkably well for cultivation, and very fair soil, though not of the

best quality. It is free from frost, and thought to be well suited for

coffee culture. He has one hundred and twenty thousand coffee plants of

different ages already planted, and is ready to extend the number when

he has rains to favor transplanting.

He has a good saw-mill, with perpendicular saw, which works very

satisfactorily. He has also a grist-mill that makes beautiful corn-meal;

and really it is refreshing to see the meal instead of farina, which is

the substitute in most of the parts of the country for bread.

We availed ourselves of the fine bathing facilities at the mill to

refresh our persons, and put on clean clothes. The Major sent down large

towels for us, and provided likewise a bottle of Cognac, for us to take

a little after concluding the bath, to prevent any bad effects of the

cold water. Bathing in this climate is not only very grateful to our

bodies but it is regarded essential to health and comfort.

I here had an opportunity of enjoying for the first time a feast of that

delicious fruit, the jaboticaba. It is a large, dark purple fruit,

resembling very much the appearance and taste of the finest specimens of

muscodine, but the average size is somewhat larger than the largest

muscodine, and the juice is even sweeter and more delicate than that of

the muscodine. It is regarded entirely free from danger, when the juice

alone is eaten, and many swallow the pulp also without experiencing any

inconvenience. This fruit is an anomaly in its location upon the body of

the trees, or upon the larger limbs, by a very short, delicate

attachment, and is not found upon the twigs or ends of the branches as

other fruits. The tree producing it is a tall, smooth, light-yellow

colored forest growth; and in riding out to the woods, a negro ascended

one of them and gathered a quantity of the fruit. It grows also when

transplanted, and makes a beautiful shade-tree for a yard, while bearing

the choicest fruit.

I ate at the house, likewise, the cassia, which is a fruit produced in

the campos, and has a very pleasant acidulous taste, that is found very

good when used as a lemonade with water. This fruit has the peculiarity

of producing the seed at the lower end, exterior to the investment.

Though found upon a small shrub in the campo, it is grown under

cultivation upon a large tree, and of much larger size and finer flavor.

We were shown here a small hand-roller cotton-cleaner, which is the only

reliance thus far for a gin. A small spinning jinney of the old pattern

is also used; and the mortar and pestle are employed for beating big

hominy.

FRIDAY, _October 20, 1865_.

We rode out this morning before breakfast to the location of a small

colony of Brazilians, employed by Major Gavião in cultivating his lands.

Most of them own some slaves, and they are also employed upon the place.

As the sole object in these arrangements seems to be for the coffee

culture, the contract with the proprietor leaves them free to cultivate

the intervening ground for themselves, and the consequence is, that

their cribs are full of corn, while the proprietor has to buy his supply

from the country around. They have hogs, also, in fine order, and every

thing about their little settlement looks to be in a thriving state. In

addition to this, the laborer is paid five cents per year for each

coffee plant that he sets out and gets to growing, thus having a good

cash income, independent of the supply of provisions. This principle

works well for the contractor, but is certainly not favorable for the

landowner, as he certainly should avail himself of some part, at least,

of the productions of the land, during the period it is occupied by the

contractor or colonist, as he is, in this instance.

I observed at the house of Major Gavião a negro man with an indolent

ulcer of the hand, which he was treating with acid nitrate of mercury,

in the absence of any physician. I thought this quite heroic domestic

practice, yet it was evidently a proper application, and I indorsed his

treatment.

The negroes here, as at other places, were observed to labor in ditching

without their shirts; and though this strikes one strangely upon first

seeing it, the negro evidently consults his own comfort, as the shirt is

usually tied round the waist. So far as I have had an opportunity of

examining the clothing of negroes, the men wear a substantial shirt and

pants of coarse cotton, and it is rare that one has been seen with

ragged clothes. The women usually wear lighter material, and it is not

uncommon to see a female servant about a house with an old calico dress,

which has doubtless been cast aside by the white women of the family.

I was particularly impressed here with the freedom which was allowed

some negro children in coming into the room occupied by the family, and

with the attention given them by the Major.

Having no children of his own, he seems to make pets of these little

darkies. He has likewise a number of huge dogs, which are very fond of

lying about the house, and he tolerates them at times, but at others

makes a clearing out of every thing, and closes an open-work door, which

serves as a barrier to their entrance.

After a late breakfast, the dashing Major accompanied us a short

distance, and left us with a guide to show us the route to the fazenda

of Senor Dom Rafael Aguiar Paes de Barros.

He and his fine-looking wife received us most courteously and treated us

very kindly. Upon being informed that I wished to look at any lands in

the neighborhood which might be for sale, the Dom supplied us with

horses, and rode with us to see some lands near his place. The soil

appeared to be of superior quality, and the surface was remarkably

smooth and level for this country, but there is not such a supply of

springs as would be desirable for the use of families, and the only

stream available for machinery is of small capacity.

The lands are bounded upon one side by the Rio Jacaré, the margins of

which are said to be very liable to chill and fever, and have not been

cleared up for cultivation. There is not sufficient fall in any part of

this stream adjacent to the land for establishing any kind of machinery.

There is, however, an immense salto or water-fall upon the river

Chimbarro, which runs near one end of the territory, but belongs to

another party, who manifests no wish to sell. This water-power might be

used for machinery of any magnitude, and the location would be a good

one for a cotton factory, to work up the crude material of the country,

and sell the proceeds to the people within adjoining districts.

The following are the tracts of land in the market:

João Baptista Lacenda 6,000 acres.

José Rodriguez 1,500 acres.

Donna Maria (Mai de Major Joaquim Roberto) 1,200 acres.

The first can be bought for about $5,000.

The second can be bought for about $3,000.

The last can be bought for about $2,500.

These lands lie in juxtaposition to each other, so that they would

together form a fine large plantation, and one good settlement, or

perhaps more could be secured. The average of the whole makes the price

one dollar and twenty cents per acre, and I have seen no body of land

presenting such favorable conditions for a fazenda, though not adapted

to a number of small settlements.

This territory lies eight miles south of Araraquara, and a considerable

proportion of the two last-named tracts have been at one time cleared

and under cultivation. But it is evident that it was not materially

impaired, and it is again covered with a growth of taquara (a species of

cane) and small trees of various kinds, which would be much more readily

cleared off than the original forest.

This land is said to have been planted seven years ago in corn and

beans, for the purpose of fattening hogs to be driven to market; but

this trade being no longer profitable, it was abandoned, and the land

allowed to grow up as stated.

The altitude of this region renders it very pleasant for a residence,

and yet its exemption from frost enables the coffee to be cultivated

successfully.

Dom Barros has already a portion of land adjoining these lands planted

in coffee, which looks to be thriving well, though not old enough to

bear fruit. I saw upon his place corn-stalks, that indicated its

adaptation to this important crop, and pumpkins of good size were also

seen in the field amongst the corn. He cultivates the sugar-cane very

successfully, and has a large mill, in which he is constantly working

it, with a firm yield of sugar and rum. The molasses is very little made

anywhere I have been, and yet when produced is of the very finest

quality. It is not used as we use it, in connection with the

substantials of a meal, but is confined to use with the dessert, and is

a most delicious syrup.

If the water-power upon the Chimbarro can be secured, in connection with

these lands, it then becomes a very desirable investment, and as Dom

Barros brings the water for his machinery from this stream, through a

race two miles long, it may be that a privilege could be had from the

owner, though he may not sell the land.

After an excellent dinner, at which Senorha presided, much after the

style of our southern ladies, we were supplied with a guide by Dom

Barros, and came to the villa of Araraquara. Having a letter to Senor

Manuel Francisco de Oliveira, we were kindly received and well provided

for at his house. I was informed that a letter had been addressed to me

by the municipal authorities of this place, inviting me to visit the

district, and that the people throughout the country were very desirous

that we should select a location amongst them. Several gentlemen called

upon us, and among them the municipal Judge, to whom I had a letter of

introduction—Senor Dom Andre Dias de Aguiar. This gentleman impressed me

very favorably by his courteous manner and his intelligent expression of

countenance, while he manifested quite an interest in the objects of my

visit, and my personal gratification.

The villa of Araraquara is located upon a plateau, which affords ample

scope for extension of the town; and there is a clear bold brook running

on one side of it, which affords fine water for domestic purposes and

for the use of all kinds of stock. The streets are laid off at right

angles, with a church and an open space in front of it in the centre of

the population. I observed that there was a jail opposite the church,

and yet I was informed that it was not much in demand for criminals. The

style of architecture is similar to the mud-built houses seen elsewhere,

being nearly all of a single story, and consequently spread over a large

area, when any considerable house-room is secured. The drinking water

here is superior, and the climate very pleasant.

SATURDAY, _October 21, 1865_.

Senor Candido Mariano Barba, the government agent at this place, called

upon us early this morning, and manifested a desire to aid me in any way

it might be practicable.[18]

It being arranged that we should go out to the fazenda of Senor Lenente

Coronel Joaquim Lorenço Correa, several of the gentlemen of the villa

rode out with us. Meeting the proprietor on the way, he joined us and

conducted us to his extensive and well-arranged establishment, known as

São Lorenço. On the way, we passed a beautiful cascade of several

hundred feet in height, and then another near his place, which is also a

fall of great elevation, but not containing so much water as the former.

The lands adjacent to these water-falls are comparatively level, but

drop down suddenly in a gorge, whose banks are precipitous for a

considerable distance, as the stream descends. I observed this same

thing on the premises of Dom Barros, and it is rather a striking

peculiarity of the country.

The fazenda of Senor Joaquim is four miles from the villa, and passing

in part through red campo land, the forest is entered within a mile of

the residence, and the soil here is of superior quality. The best

sugar-cane yet seen was observed on the roadside as we approached the

residence, and I learned from the owner that it had been growing several

years from the original roots. He finds that the cane produces here,

satisfactorily, six years; and after that time it is customary to plant

the ground anew.

This establishment belongs to the first class of the country, and the

dwelling is located upon a gentle slope, with a paved terrace, elevated

to correspond to the level of the house. The residence is very

commodious, with a basement story, which adds greatly to convenience,

and the general reception room is supplied with sofas and chairs, having

cane seats, and of very neat workmanship. The usual plan of having the

sleeping apartment opening into the parlor is found here also, and there

is no ventilation excepting by this door. The outbuildings are

well-arranged and of the most substantial construction, and the yard

immediately around the house is inclosed with a fence, while outside of

this there extends for half a mile on one side a most luxuriant

grass-pasture.

At a short distance from the dwelling stands a grist-mill, saw-mill and

sugar-mill, moved by water, which is brought in a race from an adjacent

stream. The sugar-house is supplied with metallic cylinders to express

the juice of the cane, and the quantity extracted gives a favorable idea

of the richness of the growth of cane, while the syrup indicates by its

taste a large proportion of saccharine matter. He has three large

boilers of sheet copper placed in a furnace that is neat and

substantial, while it works most efficiently. There are small troughs

connecting these boilers with the large receiving-troughs, in which the

syrup stands to crystallize, and the process of transforming the syrup

is thus attended with little difficulty. After the sugar has formed, it

is then placed in other receivers with perforations in the bottom, so

that it drips and becomes dry.

The sugar is then submitted to a process of clarifying by covering it

with a compost of clay and cow-dung, which seems to act favorably in

rendering the superficial layers of sugar very fair, and indeed almost

white. This is entirely new to me, and yet may have been resorted to in

the sugarmaking regions of the United States without coming to my

knowledge.

The drippings from the sugar are converted into rum, which is known here

by the name of aqua-ardente, or cachaça, and this branch of the business

is quite profitable, as a market is found in the country near at hand.

The sale, however, of most of the sugar made at this establishment, is

readily effected in this and the adjoining districts, at the prices of

Rio with addition of transportation; so that, though laboring under the

apparent disadvantage of remoteness from any established market, there

is really a very decided benefit in this location. He gets a higher

price at his sugar-house than the manufacturers who ship to Rio or

Santos can possibly get at those points, as his consumers must pay for

the transportation on pack-mules, if they should go there to purchase.

Moreover, I am strongly impressed with the conviction that the cane and

the appliances used in this establishment, with the high-toned character

of the proprietor, will furnish inducements to buyers that may not be

found elsewhere. He produces annually for the market between eighty and

ninety thousand pounds of sugar, for which he gets an average of seven

and a half cents per pound. Let us make a calculation for eighty-five

thousand pounds at seven and a half cents per pound, and it gives

$6,375, from which deduct $1,375 for expenses, and we have five thousand

dollars profit.

He employs only about fifteen hands, and raises besides all the corn,

beans, and other provisions for his family, and also all the hogs which

are required on his place. Every thing which can make life comfortable

seems to be raised in the greatest abundance on this place, and he lives

to a large extent within himself; but yet avails himself likewise of

such importations as are requisite for success in working his fazenda,

or for the comfort of his family. His family consists of seven daughters

and five sons, and when one is married, or arrives at the age of

twenty-one years, he gives this son or daughter three thousand dollars

upon which to commence business. Four of his daughters are married, and

two of his sons, while one of his sons being in the military service at

the seat of war, leaves at home three daughters and two sons. The entire

family excepting the older son at home, present a very robust and

healthy aspect, and the constitutional stamina of the old gentleman and

old lady are not surpassed in any country. The son at home, whose health

suffered in the army, so that he was discharged from service, is now

recovering his vigor, but has not the appearance of a good constitution

like the rest of the family.

The party rode out in the afternoon to visit the coffee field (cafézar)

of his son-in-law, Senor Francisco de Paula Coma e Silva. He has some

twenty thousand trees of various ages, and those most advanced

indicating good development, with a fair prospect for a yield. But he

could give us no definite idea of the past crop.

We here regaled with oranges and bananas of the finest quality, and

coffee was also handed at the house.

SUNDAY, _October 22, 1865_.

During the morning I was requested to prescribe for a little son of

Senor Francisco, and as there was no medicine in the house suited to the

case, we rode to the town to learn if iodine, iodide of potash, and

syrup of sarsaparilla could be found at the apothecary shop.

All the articles fortunately were on hand, and the keeper of the shop

promised to have the medicine ready to-morrow morning. After calling

upon several parties in the villa, we were entertained with music on the

accordeon by a dark-skinned gentleman, while a parrot was paraded upon

the table and supposed to be marching in time to the music, of which,

however, I could not have a full appreciation. As will be perceived,

this was a Sunday exercise, and in the mean time our old friend, Senor

Joaquim, went out to attend mass.

After returning to São Lorenço, the camarada was sent to the villa for

our baggage, which had been left behind the day previous.

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were

going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a

gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my

refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond

of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by

accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by

different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as

large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain

induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment

sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again

lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our

baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who

were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry

clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom

Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio

Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles

distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter

gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good

repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride

of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or

before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before

breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen

came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since

they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family,

there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this

country who are on a basis of equality seems to be accompanied with

great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the

dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper

personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which

may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be

proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of

the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some

cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views

of propriety, as to-day.

MONDAY, _October 23, 1865_.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received

by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of

Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed

to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him,

and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the

purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during

his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his

house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in

any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable

house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish

for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with

provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until

some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me

to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt

truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am

unable to say whether circumstances will permit me to accept the

proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the

expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this

vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered

for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings

in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in

communicating with those around me, and though attended with much

embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my

knowledge of the Portuguese language.

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members

of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward

efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have

been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be

provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was

given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by

E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil,

but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate

a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in

learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the

pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I

purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could

avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and

thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the

rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the

peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of

my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São

Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out,

and sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very

satisfactorily, and all promises well.

TUESDAY, _October 24, 1865_.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on

yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at

the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district,

a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of

all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of

entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And

if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in

agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the

thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter

upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his

ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth,

and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the

presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates

depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree.

His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with

others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and

also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of

the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with

some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this

subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a

small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the

sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he

could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to

prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of

the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead of planting

entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and

of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of

ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard

to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the

article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a

greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but

simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed,

there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market

extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a

stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and

there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the

market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that

place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in

woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for

his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the

profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business.

Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by

combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very

pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond

of stock.

WEDNESDAY, _October 25, 1865_.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in

the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence

to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen

superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to

me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there

was no point caught in his first presentation of the matter, and upon

asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained

to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston

as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go

whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he

indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we

rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de

Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of

oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at

this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the

stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The

native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and

in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good

beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic

purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are

not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some

parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at

starting and arriving.

THURSDAY, _October 26, 1865_.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after

breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a

new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the

stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it

above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over

the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no

longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept

it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence of Dom

Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in

examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to

all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda,

Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed

by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several

points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the

unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited

for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and

there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of

machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore

decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a

distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the

ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

FRIDAY, _October 27, 1865_.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to

the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement

of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had

none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he

then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the

mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum

and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably,

and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the

intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my

condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family

that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed,

each of the three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the

articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from

eating too much.

I rode out to the fields again with the old Colonel, and thus had a

little more latitude for practising my vocabulary of Portuguese; and

after returning my time was devoted industriously to improving my

facility in the use of the language. I read aloud some articles in the

newspaper which had already been learned with the use of the dictionary,

and some difficulties of construction were explained by the Colonel and

his son-in-law. I have also resorted to reading in the Portuguese

Testament, with the English at hand, so as to assist me in a proper

translation, but this does not seem to improve me so much as the reading

of the articles in the newspapers with my dictionary. The effort to

understand the idiom is a good exercise.

SATURDAY, _October 28, 1865_.

Although I retired late last night, my sleep was disturbed by the

deranged state of my system, and farther perhaps by the presence of a

vagalume which had been secured under a glass in the room.

This singular lightning-bug is of the size of an ordinary beetle, and

has two luminous spots of considerable brilliancy, corresponding to the

position of the eyes. It imparts sufficient light to read when held near

the printed page; and the time by a watch is told with great facility

when it is held near the face.

The brother of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, Senor Francisco Correa de

Arruda,[19] spent the night with us, and impressed me very favorably as

a man of substantial worth and good sense.

After breakfast I joined the old Colonel in a ride of six miles to the

farm of Senor Joaquim Correa da Assumpsão, where the best cotton was

seen growing that has been encountered in my tour. It had borne a crop

last season amounting to 2453 pounds in the seed per acre, with a

prospect of an increased yield this year after cutting off the stalks.

The limbs have already sprouted out to some distance, and are spreading

in such form as to make a good stalk; and the squares, blooms, and

forming bolls indicate a most excellent result. This land has not been

ploughed at any time, and would certainly be improved by cultivation

with the plough.

While we were at the house of Senor Assumpsão, a messenger came to

notify the old Colonel of the arrival of General Wood and party at the

villa of Araraquara. We rode into the villa and found them in charge of

some of the citizens. All took breakfast with Dom Andre Dias da Aguinar,

and as it was nearly 12 o’clock, they evidently relished his abundant

supplies after a ride of sixteen miles.

Upon asking General Wood to give me a memoranda of the names of those

constituting his party, the following list was written and handed to me:

General William Wallace W. Wood, lawyer and editor, of Mississippi,

representing seven States.

Dr. James H. Warne, surgeon and physician, from Tennessee.

Robert L. Brown, planter, Alabama.

_Aids._—W. C. Kernan, of Florida, architect and builder; Dr. J. P.

Wesson, Tennessee, dentist and machinist.

_Government Aids._—Major Ernest Street, civil engineer, São Paulo; Henry

Snell, interpreter, Campinas.

Three servants and two mule-tenders; four pack-mules.

Mr. Bennaton failed to meet the General’s party on the road, but

returned and joined them at the villa this morning.

The entire cavalcade, accompanied by a number of gentlemen from the

villa, repaired to São Lorenço, with the proprietor, and enjoyed a most

bountiful and well prepared dinner at 4 o’clock P. M.

I had been introduced to General Wood in New Orleans early in the month

of July, and understood from him then that he was delegated to come to

Brazil as the representative of five hundred families in Mississippi,

but as he was delayed in starting, it seemed to me best that my

movements should not be retarded for the sake of his company, and I left

the city for New York on the 12th of the month. As I sailed prior to his

arrival, there was no further communication between us until our meeting

here, and it is now found that his commission has been extended so as to

include seven States.

One of his party, Mr. Kernan, brought a letter of introduction to me

from Dr. R. P. Daniel, of Florida, in which he remarks: “I was myself,

in connection with another gentleman from Florida, on my way to Brazil

to locate a colony; circumstances have delayed us so much beyond the

time we had proposed that, considering the difference in seasons and

other matters, we have concluded to return home and wait until next

spring before going on. I regret this delay very much; meantime, will

you not let me hear from you at your convenience?”

In the multiplicity of my engagements, it may not be in my power to make

such a communication to Dr. Daniel as would be desirable, and the

publication of this record will give him and others who have desired

information most of the facts in my possession connected with this

country.

SUNDAY, _October 29, 1865_.

The large number of guests were all comfortably provided with bedding at

São Lorenço, and rose this morning refreshed, and responded promptly to

the call for breakfast, doing ample justice to the supplies.

It was intimated to me that Senor Francisco desired me to examine and

prescribe for his wife, a daughter of our host; and Mr. Bennaton rode

over with us and interpreted my questions and her answers, so that a

full history of the case was received. It was a stomatitis of two months

standing; and finding a Portuguese medical formulary at São Lorenço I

was enabled to make out a regular recipe, which was sent to the druggist

in the villa.

Shortly after our return a delegation arrived, representing the villa

and county of Araraquara, who presented addresses in Portuguese to

General Wood and myself. Our replies were, of course, written in

English, but were rendered into Portuguese by Mr. Bennaton, and

presented to the representatives, who were in attendance.

A translation of the address to me, and my answer, will be given here,

in fulfilment of the request contained in their communication:

“DOCTOR GASTON:—It is not only the commission under which you are

acting, and by the fulfilment of which Brazil, developing her immense

resources, hopes to attain in a short time to that degree of importance

which providence has designed, that causes the municipal common council

of this village, interpreting faithfully the sentiments of their

citizens, to come by the delegation which you have before you, and

express the desire that you may find what you seek; and thus, that your

worthy fellow-citizens—our brothers of the American Union—may adopt our

country for their country. It is likewise the sentiment of sympathy,

doctor, which your manners and education have induced on the part of all

who have had intercourse with you.

“Remain then, doctor, amongst us, as also your friends, that you may

succeed in obtaining lands, which will be suitable for your energetic

farmers and mechanics; and rest assured that we will receive you as

brothers receive brothers.

“In this form we ask you to make known to them the sentiments which

animate us.

(Signed) “MANOEL FRANCISCO OLIVEIRO,

“FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA,

“JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.

“ARARAQUARA, _October 29, 1865_.”

“SÃO LORENÇO, _October 29, 1865_.

“GENTLEMEN:—Your address received to-day causes the most grateful

emotions, which are enhanced by my separation from those included in

your expressions of sympathy: and for them allow me to thank you

cordially.

“The regard manifested for myself in this communication, and the

personal kindness of your people toward me, cheers my heart, and I feel

that I am surrounded by true friends in Araraquara.

“My visit to this country inaugurates a new era, which I trust may

conduce to the mutual welfare and enjoyment of our people in after

years, and promote likewise the best interests of Brazil.

“Should a suitable location be found for myself and my friends it will

be sincerely gratifying to make our home amongst you. I am, very

respectfully,

“Your obedient servant,

“J. MCF. GASTON.

“To Messrs. MANOEL FRANCISCO DE OLIVEIRO,

FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA,

JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.”

It will be perceived that this ceremony was on Sunday, and though public

business is generally suspended on the Sabbath as a holiday, there is

nothing which these people may not do on Sunday so far as any religious

scruples are concerned. That we must do in Rome as Rome does, is a bad

maxim in morals or in politics; and yet there are certain relations to

others in life, and to the circumstances by which we are surrounded,

that are next to an impossibility to control. These considerations come

to mind constantly here, and it is proper that they should enter into

the calculations of our people who may think of removing to this

country, as it will be found very difficult to act in such a way as to

overcome the influences at work on all sides to subvert our views of

duty as to the Sabbath. When a number of like faith and practice are

associated together in one community, they may establish their own

customs and observances; and the importance of locating together will

not subserve this end only, but many other useful objects for our future

welfare.

MONDAY, _October 30, 1865_.

General Wood and myself, with our party, accompanied by Colonel Joaquim

Lorenço and his son-in-law, Senor Francisco, left São Lorenço this

morning shortly after five o’clock A. M. Our object being the

exploration of the fazendas of Lagrada, Cambuy and Monte Allegre, it was

expected that we would be out several days, and provisions were

accordingly made by the old Colonel for all our prospective wants during

the tour.

We rode first through a portion of the tract of land known as Lagrada,

containing thirty thousand acres of land, and belonging to our host,

which he proposed to sell if it is desired. It consists of campo land in

two-thirds of its extent, and the remaining third of forest land. Our

route this morning was through the campo land, in which the soil was

red, and having quite a variety of small trees and shrubs. Some of those

bore fruits, while others were of a medicinal character. Among the

latter were found the trees from which are procured quinine, manna and

India rubber, with the plants of the jalap, columbo, ipecac, and several

indigenous remedies for syphilitic diseases and the bites of venomous

serpents. Indeed these plains contain quite a variety of fruits and

medicinal agents, and it is evident that collections of the latter,

having much value, might be made by one acquainted with their properties

and general aspects.

We proceeded through a portion of the lands of Cambuy, which is said to

contain twelve square leagues of territory, which makes one hundred and

twenty-two thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land. The

proportion of campo is supposed to be two-thirds to one-third of

woodland. Our route lay through a portion of the woodland, which is of

the terra rocha order, and about two miles across, to the river Jacaré.

Here we found a bridge had been undertaken, but was not completed, nor

did the work seem to be progressing.

To the west of this, some half a mile, there empties the Rio da

Fazendinha, which conveys sufficient water for motive power, and has a

fall of great extent, less than a mile from its mouth. The Rio da

Montada and the Rio João Velho are smaller streams, which empty into the

Jacaré farther westward.

There is a serra running up and down the Jacaré, and nearly parallel

with the general course of the stream, having the crest about two miles

distant and sloping gradually on each side; upon that slope next the

river chill and fever is said to be generated, while near the crest and

upon the opposite slope it is stated to be exempt from all disease.

The lands upon this serra are said to be of the best quality, and if

they correspond throughout to the soil seen near the road, there is

every reason to anticipate a good result from their cultivation. Until

some proper and reliable measurement is made of this fazenda, no idea

can be formed of the extent of this body of woodland, yet it is

certainly the most valuable territory of the entire tract. If it be two

leagues long, and one league wide, as some estimate it to be, it would

form a very valuable acquisition for agricultural operations.

In returning from the Jacaré we entered the woods and proceeded to the

bank of the Rebeira Fazendinha, where we breakfasted upon passorca and

oranges in true traveller’s style. As the components were simple, and

yet readily intermixed so as to give them a peculiar fitness for

travelling, the process should be understood. Boiled beef is cut up into

mincemeat, and then mixed with the farina made of corn so intimately in

a mortar that it becomes a coarse powder, and is called passorca. This,

then, is eaten with a spoon, and, when combined with an orange, as in

our repast, it is really most excellent. In the absence of oranges or a

bottle of claret it is well to have water to drink while it is eaten.

In the mean time Senor Francisco shot a macucu and her young bird, which

were regarded as a great acquisition to assist in making out our

breakfast next morning. This bird of the forest is something larger than

a chicken, and is pronounced one of the best for the table; but, in the

present case, with young birds of the size of a partridge, the hen is

not in the best eating order. A small cobra was also killed.

Our ride, after leaving these woods, was principally through campo

lands, in some of which, large, high grass was seen, but, for the most

part, the growth of grass was small and scattering. In one place I

observed small cane had been growing and was burned off, so that a new

crop was sprouting up over the ground. This would doubtless be good

grazing while it is tender.

We saw several considerable droves of cattle that were in fair

condition, and the calves generally presented a good appearance.

The woodland which was passed in the midst of the campo lands was very

well timbered, and looked as if it might have strength of soil adapted

to the production of cotton. The sand, however, predominated largely in

most of it that was seen; and Senor Joaquim Lorenço told us this was a

fair type of these lands located in other parts of the territory. With

this information, it was not thought advisable to make a tour of fifteen

or twenty miles to see a duplicate of that which we examined; and it was

concluded that we would repair to the situ on the place for the night.

We passed a fine stream of water some mile of two from the houses, and

found a small water-course at the place, adapted to work a monjolo, and

perhaps it would serve for a small grist-mill.

Upon arriving at the situ, we found that our camarada and cook had every

thing in progress for dinner, and we were soon served with a good, warm,

substantial repast, which seemed to be appreciated by all, after the

long and tiresome day’s ride, through campos, in the sun.

After dining, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, at our request, sketched upon the

ground the outline of this extensive collection of lands, and its

relations to other adjoining places, giving a rough map of all the

tracts of land convenient to the villa of Araraquara which it was

supposed would be sold. Upon this, Mr. Street based a plan and sketched

the outlines for a map, which he proposed to fill out in examining the

surrounding country, and it is likely to be very useful.

TUESDAY, _October 31, 1865_.

Getting an extra early breakfast, we set out this morning, and rode

through a wide extent of rather indifferent land, diversified by hill

and dale, as well as broad-extended plains. There were some portions of

woodland, having a light soil, in which the sandy element prevailed to

an extent that must render it of small value. But there were other

portions of woodland, with a reddish-colored soil, which were evidently

of a better quality. Yet none had the dark purple hue which

characterizes the terra rocha soil, and which is regarded the best

quality of land in this country.

In passing through the fazenda of Monte Allegre, immense undulating

plains of red soil were traversed; and different views were entertained

as to the practicability of cultivating these lands successfully with

the plough. There is in many places almost no vegetation, and the dry,

hard, red earth looks as if it scarcely had the requisite elements for

the germination and sustentation of grass or plants of any kind. This

may depend in part upon the long-protracted drought which has existed in

all this region of country; yet it is an inexplicable circumstance that

no planter attempts to raise a crop upon any portion of these campos,

and their cultivation would certainly be attended with less labor than

clearing up matto lands. An experiment with the plough should, however,

be made, with a view to test their productiveness.

When we reached the situ of Senor José Pinto, in charge of this fazenda,

every thing was found ready for our comfort, as he had been notified of

our coming by Senor Joaquim Lorenço. Being in advance, with some others

who did not speak Portuguese, it devolved upon me to use my small stock

in communicating with the proprietor, and I am encouraged to find that

my words are understood, while I comprehend much that is said by others

in this tongue.

Dinner was served in accordance with the most approved style of the

country, the courses being of great variety, and the plates being

frequently changed. We were agreeably surprised with the excellent taste

displayed in connection with the table, and it was no less a matter of

admiration to find beds arranged for all our large party with the

greatest elegance. The pillow-cases were decorated with fine lace, and

some of the spreads were beautifully embroidered. It is an odd fancy

with many families to have towels of very fine material trimmed with

very broad lace, and this was exhibited here in the greatest profusion

upon the towels for our use.

There is a water-course on each side of the houses, which, uniting

below, form a considerable stream. This large creek has a fall upon it,

which affords a very favorable site for machinery, and indeed each of

the smaller streams is also adapted to supply good water-power, while

one of them already has a cotton-gin and grist-mill in operation, but

both on a small scale.

In an enclosure near the mill-house there are two large trees, called

Ximbo, which we were told had been planted there some years ago; and

this would seem to indicate that the land will grow other trees better

than those usually seen in campos. These trees present a luxuriant,

thriving aspect, and afford a very fine shade for stock, while they

would be highly decorative and useful in the immediate vicinity of the

dwelling. It is remarked, however, that shade trees are seldom seen here

about a house, and the climate being very warm during most of the year,

the benefit of the trees ought to be apparent to all.

Orange trees are growing in the garden attached to this house, and

though not bearing at present, they are well developed and will

doubtless yield abundantly in proper season. The oranges in all this

region are said to be very fine, and in some places the trees are found

still with some fruit, which is of the very best quality. It has been a

matter of consideration with me, whether the growing of the orange for

the purpose of making wine and brandy might not become profitable. That

a good article of each can be produced has already been satisfactorily

proved, and there is a modification of the wine, known by the name of

Coracão, which is very much prized. This name implies that it is adapted

to cheer the heart, and it is considered a great delicacy. I have tasted

a specimen of the ordinary wine of the orange, and thought it

corresponded very much to the Sherry wine, which is certainly one of the

best wines that is imported to the United States.

A dog-kennel with seventeen deer-hounds was seen here, and these animals

have sharp ears like the wolf, with greater activity and fleetness than

our hounds.

WEDNESDAY, _November 1, 1865_.

At five o’clock this morning three of the party and myself joined the

proprietor in making a tour of observation in the plantation and

neighboring woodlands of Monte Allegre. The soil was not of a superior

quality, yet it would doubtless produce moderately well. Cotton had been

planted last year, and seemed to have made an average stalk, while that

more recently planted was growing quite as well as the want of

cultivation would warrant. The large proportion of unproductive land

upon this fazenda, and the medium quality of most of the woodland, do

not present encouraging features for a settlement upon it. Yet the fine

location, and the water facilities, have evidently inspired General Wood

with the idea that it would afford a favorable location for a city of

newcomers. It is thought, moreover, that in the event of the extension

of a railroad to this region, it will pass in the immediate vicinity of

this place. That the location is healthy is shown by the residence of a

large family and quite a gang of negroes for many years at this site,

with very slight sickness of any kind. But there are wanting, in my

view, the most essential requisites for building a city, or for

establishing a large number of our people, in the deficient basis for

agricultural pursuits and the absence of means of transportation, while

there is a very scanty supply of timber at any point convenient for use.

We need many things in commencing a settlement for which we must depend

upon the resources of the surrounding country, or upon transportation

from other parts; and in case these supplies are not likely to be found

near at hand, the means of ready communication with some furnishing

point becomes essential.

We left Monte Allegre about 9 o’clock A. M., and came out through a

different portion of the territory from that previously seen, but found

no improvement in the nature of the soil. At one point we were informed

that a field of coffee (cafézar) was near the road, but being of recent

planting, it would have afforded very little idea of the fitness of the

soil to its growth, and hence we did not visit it. The woodlands passed

through to-day belonged to that class known as terra branca, having a

large proportion of sand mixed with the soil, and might perhaps be

appropriate for the cultivation of cotton for a few years.

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim

Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland

belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good

size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a

stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise

throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one

extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray

aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim

thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and

sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra

vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

THURSDAY, _November 2, 1865_.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his

fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of

special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto

Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with

milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up

associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality

of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until

our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) which is of a

gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the

tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal

has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in

search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when

encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in

which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of

killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of

the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and

emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the

dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the

body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a

personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of

this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory,

we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains

about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or

small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one

of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of

corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the

road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There

were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we

had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that

they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas;

and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable

coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two

miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most dreary sand-bed of

nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a

water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of

Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is

not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into

a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill

and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five

inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and

of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into

the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of

water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company

with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand

and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself.

I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any

thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was

simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect,

repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect

knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was

construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I

remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not

on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go

to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I

proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by

the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring

under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his

bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to

follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to

his head, which should be placed near a window.

I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the

treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our

interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as

reported.

FRIDAY, _November 3, 1865_.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon

examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been

productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house

of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock.

We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an

address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco

Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated

the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c.,

&c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the

General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a

pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was

executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor

Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance

that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my

friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles

with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly

appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman

at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either

occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being

notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in the afternoon,

there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented

themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on

the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to

look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town,

through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio

Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several

letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo,

suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General

set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to

the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his

hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the

house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that

all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire

company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in

readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a

very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the

view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the

lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is

excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to

flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

SATURDAY, _November 4, 1865_.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this

morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for

us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of

the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were

preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time

after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave,

and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then

had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed.

This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the

part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this

country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a

negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation.

Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General

and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by

them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green

bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken,

and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place

a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued

the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle

the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks

leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a

tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed

ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply

of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very

acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the

rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had

halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of

Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their

coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be

in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the

Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation

of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the

chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio

Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood

and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been

met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now

as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch

was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the

dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which

none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went

through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the

house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much

cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied

the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have

felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter

than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day,

in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim

Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor

Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo

the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations

that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment.

When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed

that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by

whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the

route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest

quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to

the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel,

and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane.

The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not

apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at

breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was

not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he

returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house

in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole

thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who

preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José

Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were

expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception

room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently

a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the

treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I

readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin.

Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not

understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this

technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be

adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by

physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in

requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown

color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra

masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and

yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such

that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence

the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom

lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best

soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture

of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its

qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal

mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and

cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe,

however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile

lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled

with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is

united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and

attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to

mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have

marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which

those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir

and excitement of the past day.

We commenced this series of thirteen years in the full enjoyment of

mutual affection, yet we did not and could not know each other’s heart

and devotion as we have learned them by many repeated acts of

self-sacrifice on the part of each for the other. No one, without the

experience of that love which exists alone between husband and wife, can

realize how entirely self may be absorbed in the devotion of the soul to

the welfare and enjoyment of one another. If there was a joy or a sweet

allowed me in this life which could not be shared by my wife, it would

detract from the gratification I would have from it; and I know too well

that every happiness which can be extended to me by my true-hearted and

loving wife affords an increase of happiness to her. We have shared many

trials together, and have become the parents of seven children; one of

whom left us for a place among the angels of heaven, at the early age of

eight months, while four interesting daughters and two sons of promising

parts remain to cheer us still.

How pleasant and precious is the thought of again returning to enjoy the

associations of my beloved wife and my darling children. There is no

sentiment of the human heart that is more elevating and refining in its

tendency than the love which a husband feels for his wife, and the

affection he has welling up in his breast for his children.

“In its silence and beauty,

Its passion and power;

Love breathed o’er the land

Like the soul of a flower.”

In the heart of him who has a sincere regard for his family, love is

truly as delicate and sensitive as the aroma of the sweetest flower. It

is the most tender and devoted consecration of the soul to the interests

and enjoyments of those cherished objects. It is the confiding sincerity

and purity of faith which the affectionate husband and father realizes

for those that are bound to him by the most holy and gentle ties of

mutual love. It is not a hope, but a full and complete enjoyment of

reciprocal attachment. The faith and trust are without a shadow of

misgiving as to the return they will meet, and the soul rests in

blissful consciousness of the love of wife and children.

The light beaming forth in the full glare of a noon-day sun may fail to

convince me of the warmth of that brilliant orb; but the glow of delight

which brightens the eye and lights up the features of my wife and my

children when we meet, cannot, must not, and will not, leave the shadow

of a doubt as to their affection for me. We live in the sweet

realization of each other’s love, and it is accompanied by the most

unselfish desire to promote the comfort and enjoyment of each other.

If I seek the good things of this life, it is that my family may share

them with me. If I seek exemption from the cares and vexations of the

world, it is to shield them from annoyance. If I seek preferment among

my fellowmen, it is with the anxious thought that they may thus be

brought into more desirable and honorable associations. If I seek social

enjoyment, the most exquisite gratification is found in the interchange

of cordial sentiments with my own loved ones at home. All in all, it is

with the anticipation of such happiness in future days that I now seek a

place of refuge from the troubles of my native land.

May God in his goodness and infinite mercy protect and sustain my wife

and my children, while I am endeavoring to secure a home for them here,

is the constant prayer of my heart.

I am now separated from all that is held dear in the associations of

life; and no step has ever been taken heretofore which caused me so much

anxiety and apprehension for the welfare of my family as leaving them in

the midst of troubles and irregularities in society, such as the world

has never witnessed before. But having taken all the preliminary steps

which human forecast could suggest for the comfort of those near and

dear to me, and with the attention of a kind friend, who would look

after them and their interests with the care of a brother, I trust in

the providence of a merciful God, that they may be preserved from all

harm, and that we may be soon returned to each other in health, peace,

and happiness.

SUNDAY, _November 5, 1865_.

This being the Sabbath, I announced my intention to make it a day of

rest, and the old Colonel said he would remain with me, while the others

purposed to take a ride of fourteen miles to the Tieté river. A huge bag

of provisions was prepared for the expedition by our host, and a guide

was expected to meet them at the town of Jahu. But notwithstanding all

these preliminary arrangements, the trip was abandoned, and all remained

quietly at the house of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes for the day. He

is a cousin of the Colonel.

Several gentlemen came to visit us from the surrounding country, and

dined with us. Among them was a Catholic priest, Senor Francisco

Ferreira Garcia, the vicar of this district, and Senor Lorenço de Arruda

Prado, another cousin of Colonel Joaquim.

The former had the misfortune to be thrown from his mule after bidding

some of our party good-by upon the road, but was not injured. The latter

appeared to be a very clever gentleman, and is said to be a successful

planter. In being introduced to him by my old friend, the Colonel, I was

informed of his relationship, and on his leaving, I extended the

customary assistance in mounting his mule, which is regarded here as a

simple act of courtesy to a gentleman who visits you. This act of

attention is a part of that general politeness which is observed among

the best class of Brazilians, and struck us, as it must every one not

familiar with the usages of the people, in the light of a menial service

that was not compatible with the relation of one gentleman to another,

yet custom makes it not only proper and becoming, but almost obligatory.

The party assisting usually looses the horse, holds the bridle, and

steadies the stirrups while the other mounts, and the guest is expected

to avail himself of this assistance without regard to the age or rank of

the person tendering it, though in some instances he may demur when he

thinks circumstances should preclude it.

Our host is lively and intelligent, speaking French with fluency, and

having a little knowledge of the English. Shortly after our arrival at

his house, I made some remark to him in Portuguese, which at first was

not understood, and he indicated his wish that it should be repeated, by

the usual word, “Como?” (How?) I used the same expression again and was

fully comprehended, and answered accordingly. Immediately after this,

General Wood’s interpreter, Mr. Snell, who is an Englishman that has

been a number of years in Brazil, spoke to the Dom in Portuguese, and

he, taking this to be another American with a slim stock of the

language, did not comprehend what was said, and replied to him, “Não

entendo,” (I don’t understand.) This gave us a good laugh upon Mr.

Snell. In my use of the language it was simply “Como?” but with him, who

was here as interpreter, the party addressed was compelled to say “Não

entendo,” taking him to be a novice in Portuguese. The fact is, that

while Mr. Snell understands the language well, and speaks it fluently,

he has a habit of cutting off the last syllable of his words, that makes

it somewhat difficult at times to gather the full meaning of his

remarks, and hence this mistake.

The lady of the house has evidently associated more with gentlemen than

most of those occupying a like position, and hence appears more at ease

in company, joining in general conversation with those who speak the

language. She departs greatly from the habit of our ladies by suckling

her child in the presence of gentlemen. Though she was in the

dining-room during our meals, the crowded table was perhaps a sufficient

reason for not being seated with us, and she was looking after the

proper supply of articles by the servants, though the Dom seemed to

assume the chief responsibility in this respect.

The culinary arrangements of this establishment, like most others in

Brazil, are under the same roof with the residence of the family, and

the fire is built upon the earthen floor in the open room, without any

other outlet for the smoke than is afforded by the spaces between the

tiles which cover the house. As it was rather cool during the evenings,

we took a seat in a circle around this fire, and thus had a very

sociable _family circle_, which gives me the key to an explanation of

that term, which has never before been fully understood.

Our host follows the course of his kinsman, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, in

regard to the abundance of supplies upon his table at all three meals,

and supper is quite equal to breakfast in the variety of the articles. I

tell them that they give us three dinners every day, and if we were to

remain stationary, all would be foundered in a short time, or take the

gout, though I do not hear of this affection in the country.

We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the

Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge

fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in

proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale

fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at

breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.

We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of

this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be

better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length.

The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is

almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its

appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This

specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our

inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods

during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous

cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The

large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in

our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have

established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved

from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found

for food.

The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in

the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the

winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of

torpidity after the mode of reptiles.

MONDAY, _November 6, 1865_.

In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with

fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, and set out for

Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about

eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected

us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did

not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of

time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly

pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.

The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located

upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general

conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of

firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting

the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho

are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the

fertility of the soil.

Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and

others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest)

has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in

cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.

The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or

rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various

points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town

of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout

this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather

mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for

proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be

very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are

usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section

are liable to some frost in the cold season.

I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the

distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio

Jahu, and to the distance of two leagues, or eight miles, on the south

side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less

valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the

deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very

advantageously for cultivation.

After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of

Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira

Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the

old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for

accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a

disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.

We rode over a comparatively level region in coming from the house of

Senor Lima to this place, and though not giving evidence of so much

fertility as that near the Rio Jahu, it is generally of good quality,

and is well supplied with water for ordinary domestic purposes. There

was no portion of useless land seen upon this route, and no campos have

been encountered since leaving the town of Brotas. The timber throughout

this plateau is of good size, and much of it very favorable for

splitting to make fences, as the quarenta, which grows especially

abundant near the fazenda at which we are stopped. This tree is very

durable when made into rails, and has its name from the impression that

it lasts during forty years. In entering the premises, I observed the

neatest and most substantial fencing yet seen in Brazil, and was

informed that the rails are of this material. One end of the rails is

embedded in the earth, and they are arranged side by side in a

perpendicular form, with a cross-bar of the palmetto running

horizontally about two feet from the top, which is secured by being

lashed continuously with the sipo vine. This sipo is a long and slender

vine of surprising strength and flexibility, which is used for confining

the rafters of houses, tying timbers together where pegs or nails would

be used with us, baling cotton, and, indeed, for any purpose to which

ropes might be applied. It is called in common parlance the Brazilian

nail, and it is remarkable to what an extent it is made a substitute for

nails.

It is particularly well suited for constructing these stake-fences, and

no better enclosure can be devised for the protection of a crop against

large or small intruders.

General Wood, Doctor Warne, and Mr. Snell parted from the rest of us at

the house of Senor Lima, and went down to the mouth of the Jahu, and

descended the river Tieté in canoes for two miles. They gave a favorable

account of the general outline of the banks on each side, but found the

channel of the river so shallow in several places that the canoes came

in contact with the bottom, and it was requisite for the boatmen to draw

them over by getting out into the water. There was one point at which

there were rapids or falls, and they got out upon the shore, while those

in charge of the canoes carried them over the fall, receiving them again

below into the canoes.

This being a drought of many months continuance, the river is said to be

lower than it has been before for twelve years, and the ordinary level

of the water is stated to be six feet above its present state. It is

thought by persons acquainted with the river, that there is sufficient

water during the rainy months, to afford a passage for flat-bottomed

propellers to Perecicaba, from which point there is a wagon-road to

Campinas, and from thence the railroad will perhaps be available in a

few years.

From the account received, and from my personal inspection of the river,

I think there is but little prospect of navigating it with safety, and

unless there be a practicable route for a railway to this region of

country, its products must depend on transportation by pack-mules.

The elevated serra near Brotas is perhaps the most serious obstacle to a

railroad, and it remains for engineers to determine whether this can be

overcome.

If a line of railroad is extended to Araraquara, and can communicate

with the Rio Jaceré below Cambury, then this section of country lying

between the Tieté and Jaceré might avail itself of the Jaceré for

navigation up to that point, and thus get an outlet for its products.

The Jaceré is represented to have a deep and open channel from its mouth

up to Cambury; and all the rich region lying between it and the Tieté

and extending along the Jahu would be better accommodated by effecting

this result than to attempt to navigate the Tieté upwards.

TUESDAY, _November 7, 1865_.

Having but a limited number of beds, our host provided some dried

raw-hides which were spread upon the dirt floor, and about one-half of

our party slept upon them, with their overcoats, &c., assisting to fill

out the scanty supply of bedding. There was no particular inconvenience

experienced except from the fleas, which found ready access to our

friends upon the hides and interrupted somewhat the quietness of their

repose. Mr. Snell and myself were perched upon a long high table, and

being thus above the jumping height of a flea we fared very well. I have

carried a blanket and pillow throughout my trip, and found them with my

overcoat very convenient on this occasion. A bed had been assigned to

me, but feeling that our good friend Senor Joaquim Lorenço should of all

others be provided for, I persuaded him to occupy the bed, and I slept

comfortably upon the table during the whole night.

With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied,

and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other

places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.

The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish

to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was

drawn forth on this occasion to give a zest to the fine fish, and the

entire bottle was consumed.

In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset,

four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge,

thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the

necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion

to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.

After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs.

Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our

escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and

the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant,

and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river,

and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different

route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under

cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet

potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this

vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles

farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications

of barrenness.

We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine

and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed

that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts

running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our

escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as

he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the

tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been

brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some

young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and

looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably

from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be

replanted. No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the

coffee trees.

The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of

sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the

soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor

were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the

most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau

was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the

quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.

The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might

be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but

not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing

this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of

our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for

water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the

only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this

territory.

We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a

tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a

serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance

up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to

reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth

surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He

then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the

top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like

manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the

fruit.

We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in

close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In

going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and

some of the party were not apprised that any place claiming a name had

been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels,

and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he

could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through

with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a

corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of

land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He

doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our

object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance

of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.

At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty

cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per

acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per

acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars

an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to

any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be

considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.

We returned to our rendezvous a while before night, and found the rest

of the company had not stirred beyond the premises during the day; and

some of them were perched upon some timber for machinery that lay in the

yard, while others met us, while relaxing their limbs in a short walk

from the house toward the outer gate of the enclosure.

WEDNESDAY, _November 8, 1865_.

We left the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose at 6 o’clock this

morning, after partaking of an early breakfast, and returned to the

house of our old friend Senor Lima. Here he had collected his breeding

stock for our observation; and though the mares were generally of small

size, there were a few very good young horses, and the colts for the

most part looked well. It is a little remarkable to observe how entirely

quiet the stallions are, when allowed to run at large in this way with a

promiscuous drove of animals. There was a jackass also running with the

stock, yet I saw no young mules; and the dull and lifeless aspect of

this animal gave no promise of an increase of his stock. There were

thirty mares, and if even this number were employed in rearing mules, it

would doubtless prove profitable; but this scrubby specimen of horses,

which are propagated, are not likely to give much return for the trouble

of looking after them. These animals subsist entirely upon grass, and

very rarely get salt, as it is too costly at these interior places to be

afforded for stock, except in very small quantities.

Dining with Senor Lima we proceeded afterward upon the same route by

which we had gone up, and reached the residence of Senor Dom Correa

Leite de Moraes at four o’clock in the afternoon. He and his wife

received us again most hospitably, and have extended all the kindness

possible to our whole party.

Our saddle-mules have remained here in his pasture, and been fed with

corn daily from his crib, while our clothing has been washed and ironed

in our absence. The pack-mules have been sent off this afternoon so as

to keep ahead to-morrow.

THURSDAY, _November 9, 1865_.

Our cheerful and hospitable friend, Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, and

his kind lady, received our cordial acknowledgments at leaving them this

morning. Our own mules being fresh, moved off with alacrity, and upon

reaching the Freguezia de Jahu, we were met by Senor José Rebeiro

Camargo, and invited to the house of his son-in-law, where wine and

coffee were served, and his wife and daughter came out to bid us adieu.

It was thought that this demonstration was in part for the purpose of

showing his unmarried daughter to one of the young men, to whom the

father had taken a fancy for a son-in-law. But I doubt if the impression

was well calculated to promote his wishes for incorporating an American

graft into his family. This young man was furnished with a list of the

entire family, and received a very cordial embrace from the father at

parting.

We breakfasted at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozinto, and

found him this time awaiting our arrival, with every thing in readiness

for giving us a substantial entertainment. He had very kindly furnished

mules for some of our party during the recent trip, and had accompanied

us in person until sickness made it necessary for him to return.

The land from Jahu to this fazenda is of superior quality, being of the

dark brown order, and as this is eight miles from the Rio Jahu, it may

be inferred that this fine soil extends to a like distance from the

river elsewhere on this side, which corresponds to the statement made in

regard to the breadth of good land extending along this stream.

The general health of this region of country is very good, yet there are

cases of chill and fever reported upon the Tieté and Jaceré, and

throughout the region lying adjacent to those water-courses. No instance

was brought to my knowledge of malarial disease remote from these

streams; and, from the general aspects of the country, I would not think

it likely to prevail to any considerable extent away from their margins.

I saw but two instances of goitre or bronchocele in this entire region

of country, and the information received from Dom Correa is conclusively

that they were not generated here, but imported from other parts. There

is no serra here, and so far as my observation goes, goitre is confined

to those living in the vicinity of the serras.

This section and the country about Araraquara are the only parts visited

thus far in which this ugly deformity did not prevail amongst the women.

It is not however confined to the women exclusively, as several

instances have been seen among males, and the condition of climate,

water, atmosphere, or diet, which promotes the development of this

condition, cannot be favorable to the constitutional health of those

exposed to its influence. No leprosy found here.

We halted at a small shop upon our route to-day, where oranges were sold

at the rate of four for a cent; and all of us having a relish for this

fruit, concluded we never could satisfy our taste more cheaply, so we

turned to and ate the whole stock in trade. One gentleman was reported

to have eaten fourteen oranges, but I thought that a full complement was

received with half of that number, and it puzzled me to know how any one

eat more than I did in the same length of time.

A large concourse of persons on horseback were met to-day, males and

females, dressed out in their best clothes. Some of them were provided

with musical instruments, and there was a train of pack-mules, upon one

of which there were two immense boxes, and sundry smaller trunks upon

the others. We understood that it was a movement to celebrate the feast

of the Holy Ghost at the Freguezia de Jahu, which is done yearly by the

Catholics here.

Returning by a different route from that of our trip in going up, we

encountered extensive campos, and soil generally of inferior quality,

until we reached the Serra de Brotas, upon which the land, as stated

previously, is very good, and lies favorably.

We reached the residence of Senor Domingos José Carneiro (son-in-law of

the old Colonel) this afternoon at 5 o’clock, when we were kindly

received by him and his wife, and found every thing arranged for the

comfort of the entire party.

A letter was received this afternoon from our faithful friend, Senor

Joaquim Lorenço, responding in the most feeling terms to a communication

made to him by our entire party in leaving his house. As the two letters

may be now inserted together, and may give those who read these pages an

idea of the relations subsisting with this noble-souled Brazilian, I

will give a translation of his in connection with that sent by us.

ARARAQUARA, _November 2, 1865_.

The following-named persons, recently from the United States of America,

and their companions, have received such favors at your house and such

assistance from you in the examination of the lands of Araraquara, that

we desire to leave with you an expression of our great obligations and

our sincere thanks for your kindness.

Having visited this section in search of a future home for our families,

we have found you a friend that makes all of us desire to be your

neighbor, and to become residents of your section of this country.

We go to look at other lands, and to ascertain the resources of other

places, feeling that no people can extend to us a more cordial and

generous hospitality than we have received here from you.

With the most heartfelt gratification for your reception and treatment

during our sojourn with your family, please to accept our best wishes

for the happiness of yourself and those composing your household.

W. W. W. WOOD,

J. MCF. GASTON,

[Names of all others composing the party.]