HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL.

Having made a pleasant voyage from New York, it was announced early on

the morning of Tuesday, September 12th, 1865, that our vessel had passed

Cape Frio, and that we were approaching the harbor of Rio de Janeiro.

The rugged shore upon our right hand presented rather a dreary aspect,

relieved now and then by a few scrubby trees, or the green foliage of

vines springing from the crevices of the rocks. This mountainous

rock-bound coast is very irregular in its outline; and the ocean,

dashing against its base, throws the white foam of the waves high upon

its sloping edge, then to break into spray, and fall back into roaring

waters.

The guardians of the entrance consist of two conical islands of solid

rock, known as Pai (father) and Mai, (mother.) Farther south there is

another small island of rock, upon which stands a light-house to guide

vessels approaching at night.

The indications for the mariner are so distinct, and the water so deep

and free from obstructions at all points, that pilots are not required.

The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf

mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must

realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of

a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel

passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly

defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it

simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate

entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right

side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense

pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the

world.

The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was

observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to

70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature

from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°,

but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now,

in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable

temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found

very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast

to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this

region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time

during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and

instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the

equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly

probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly

felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon

every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty

cliffs.

Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea,

we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city

immediately upon the margin of the water.

A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right,

projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive

range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable

distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon

getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to

know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New

York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain

answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our

flag being English,[1] the language corresponded to the supposed

nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required

good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were

made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be

asked at this place.

We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the

appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the

left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had

quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the

large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the

ramparts.

In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there

were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might

serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being

in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of

a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated

positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the

difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually

protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which

flank these works on each side.

Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a

custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get

the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our

passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had

to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going

ashore.

This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in

English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to

elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the

bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the

mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married,

when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a

family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us,

and shook hands with all upon leaving.

The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and

myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly

two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us

with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on

shore.

We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and

immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing

was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a

large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few

by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.

Before leaving the bark, it should be mentioned that several boats came

along side with cards from the respective ship chandlers, which they

were very intent upon delivering to the captain, with an invitation to

take a seat in the boat for a row to the city. One of these was from the

firm of Baldwin & Co., with which he expected to deal, and at which we

stopped a short time after going ashore. Mr. Baldwin had left the city

for a visit to Baltimore, and we were told that his impression was, that

an honest man ought not to continue in this branch of business. The

house however seems to be well supplied with the various articles

usually needed aboard of ships, and it is likely that persons needing to

purchase any thing in this line may do so on as favorable terms here as

elsewhere in the city of Rio.

From this place, which is very near the wharf, we proceeded with the

captain to the house of Phipps Brothers & Co., on Rua Pescadores, who

are the consignees of his cargo. The young men in the office spoke

English, and were very accommodating in giving us information in regard

to various matters outside of their business. We learned that Colonel

Clarey from the city of Baltimore had arrived in this city a few days

previous, and it was supposed that he was still here. But we were

subsequently informed that he had left the city, and proceeded by way of

Santos to the city of São Paulo.

In passing through this business part of the city, several negro men

were seen with little else than a cloth around their loins, carrying

immense burdens; while negro women were seated upon the side-walks with

the body of a chemise as the only covering above their waists. These

women were engaged in traffic of various kinds, and seemed to be as

entirely unconscious of any undue exposure as we would suppose Eve was,

originally, in the garden of Eden.

The captain had some Brazilian money, and made a very satisfactory trade

with one of these women, getting three oranges for a dump, which is

equal to two cents, and bought enough to give us all a good bait of this

delicious fruit. I had a United States twenty-five cent coin, for which

she was only willing to allow me eight dumps or sixteen cents, but I

declined her proposition, and afterwards got ten dumps or twenty cents

for my quarter of a dollar,[2] and invested a portion of it forthwith in

oranges. It is one of my weak points to have an inordinate fondness for

oranges, and this fruit being unusually fine in Rio, and very cheap, I

expect to consume a large number daily. Bananas are also very abundant

and very cheap; but it is not the season for pine-apples, and the few

here are held at high prices, even as much as fifty cents each.

I was struck with the large strings of onions that were seen hanging in

almost every part of the market, and was told that they are shipped to

the port from Portugal in immense numbers, though the soil and climate

of Brazil is said to be well adapted to their production. Those things

which grow here in great abundance, without work, satisfy the wants of

the lower class of people, and they do not care to devote their energies

to tilling the soil.

The streets of Rio de Janeiro, in the business portion of the city,

through which we passed, are for the most part very narrow, and having a

depression in the middle to serve as a drain. It is difficult for two

carts or other vehicles to pass each other, and on one occasion we had

to enter the door of a store to avoid contact with the wheels, when two

carts were passing in one of these narrow defiles leading to the store

of Phipps Brothers & Co. In going to this place, however, we passed

through Rua da Direita, which is at this portion perhaps the broadest

street in the city, and upon this is located the business palace and the

church of the Emperor, Dom Pedro II.

In front of these buildings is an open plaza, with a fountain of water

on the opposite side, at which persons may be seen almost constantly

filling their vessels with the pure and limpid fluid, that is conveyed

by an aqueduct from the hills outside of the city.

This plaza is constantly occupied with carriages and hacks for hire, and

there are also quite a number of two-wheeled tilburys, having

accommodation for but one person beside the driver. Mules are generally

driven in these vehicles, two to the former, and one to the latter, and

while they are used almost exclusively in all public equipages, it is

not uncommon to see a fine pair of mules likewise in an elegant private

carriage.

The mules here present a fine appearance, being of large size and having

good action, with apparently more life and spirit than the mules with us

in the United States. This however is accounted for by the comparatively

light service which is done by them, which came under my observation

during this afternoon.

I observed that horses are also used in private equipages and for the

saddle, but they did not strike me as being of superior quality. There

was a number of fancy-colored horses of rather small size, in single

harness, and they seemed to be compact, hardy animals, with good action,

and fine spirit. They belong doubtless to the stock of wild horses

captured in the plains of Buenos Ayres or in the lower provinces of

Brazil, yet I had no opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to their

origin.

Among the many vehicles seen in the streets of Rio de Janeiro I observed

nothing like the buggy which is in common use in the United States; and

the two-wheeled, one horse tilbury is so much better adapted to narrow

streets and short turns that it is not likely that it will find a rival

soon in the four-wheeled buggy of modern invention.

Omnibuses or “diligencia” are seen moving to and fro with great

activity, and this progressive feature of a business people is evidently

in successful operation, with the usual advantages accruing to a large

number of customers, over that of carriages and tilburys, which are only

hired by the few for transportation to a special point. The large number

of negroes that are seen upon the streets, both male and female, with

the marks of tattooing upon their cheeks, and in the persons of the

females with fancy figures on their arms, indicates that the African

slave-trade has been carried on with this country very actively at a

comparatively recent period. Most of them appear strong and active,

while many are not exceeding twenty-five years of age. The men were

employed in such business as we might expect slaves to do, but most of

the women were selling fruit or trafficking in other little dainties, as

if they might be free.

I learn that it is a common thing here for a number of slaves to hire

their time, and form a combination together to work out their freedom.

It is decided by lot who is first made free, and the order in which the

others are found, and yet all are bound to remain together and

contribute all that is received into the common treasury, until the last

is liberated.[3] This is among the men, and I don’t know that any such

arrangement has been adopted by the women.

Upon returning to our boat, we had a view of the line of ferry boats,

which has been introduced here, upon the same plan as that adopted at

New York and elsewhere in the United States. A gentleman from North

Carolina named Rainey organized a company here some years ago, and has

brought out two double-enders from New York for this service, which run

from the city proper across to Nitherohi and other points. Their trips

are made with great regularity every half hour, accommodating a large

number of people.

WEDNESDAY, _September 13, 1865_.

After returning from the city last night, my overcoat was found

comfortable, and a blanket was used for covering during the night. The

temperature this morning is very pleasant upon the water, it being 72°

by Fahrenheit’s thermometer.

Having learned from Phipps & Co. that a vessel was expected to leave

to-morrow for Baltimore, I made an addition to a letter written on

yesterday to my wife, and putting a United States postage stamp upon it,

I gave it to these gentlemen to be forwarded by the captain of the

vessel.

Upon inquiry for letters at the post-office this morning, I was handed a

long list of written names with the simple announcement “English” by the

clerk. This implied that these persons had letters in the office, which

had come through English mail, but most of the names were either

Portuguese or Spanish, and very few really English. My own not being on

the list, it was inferred that no letter had arrived for me. As I had

left home upon the 26th of June, and gone by way of New Orleans to New

York, occupying an entire month before leaving the latter port, there

had evidently been sufficient time for any communication that might have

been sent direct, to reach this city in advance of my arrival.

I must encounter many difficulties in my intercourse with the people of

this country, from the ignorance of their language, and my objects in

the line of business will be to some extent embarrassed; but there being

a good many people here who speak both English and Portuguese, it may be

in my power to obtain an interpreter when needed.

Having letters from Colonel A. V. Brumly to Mr. M. Tweedle and Mr.

Robert Habersham, who I expected to find employed in the engineer

department of the Dom Pedro II. Railroad Co., I repaired to their

building, and was pleased to find that Major Ellison, chief engineer,[4]

and his brother, also employed in this office, were both from the United

States. I learned that Mr. Tweedle had left the road and the country

long since, and that Mr. Habersham was in charge of the construction

section sixteen miles above the terminus of the present track. As I wish

to see the country along the line of this road and on its projected

route, I hope at a future day to make a visit to Mr. Habersham.

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions

to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization,

and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his

proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit.

Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr.

Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something

further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who

gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and

tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to

me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city

for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that

business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be

a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him

very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous

manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have

considerable influence among the people and the officials of this

country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some

five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which

he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the

public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among

which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some

water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the

fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as

the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but

it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time,

we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are

employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city,

by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the

margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and

purification.[5] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise,

to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it

or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household

arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various

forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of

the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents

carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and

emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in

the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the

whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate

themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this

city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of

all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most

fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in

passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is

such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public

ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere

more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the

city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the

gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise

and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a

pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the

hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the

private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is

proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located

in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having

a bordering range of mountain cliffs.

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and

here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are

arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It

is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting

display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the

harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the

swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many

fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city

present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed

with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the

firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope

contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a

sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels

striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet

in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither

of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of

this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night;

and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of

business, while for the student comes meditation.

THURSDAY, _September 14, 1865_.

We expected to move into the city to-day; and being advised that my cans

of tomatoes, peaches, and pickles, with some tobacco, which had been

brought from New York, might not pass through the custom-house unless

they were included in my baggage, I put all into my mess-chest. These

articles had been procured with the expectation that they would be

required on the voyage, and finding the vessel well supplied, very

little had been used; yet I wished to retain them for use in exploring

the country, where provisions might be scarce, and hence declined to

accept the offer of the captain to buy them for the bark. Upon entering

the custom-house with these things, and foreseeing the importance of

having these matters understood by the officers in advance of their

examination, I requested Mr. Hagins, who does business with Mr. Davis,

to proceed with me to the custom-house and represent the facts. He gave

them to understand that the articles were not for sale, but for my own

consumption, and, after some difficulty, arranged the matter without any

charge for duty or the imposition of any fine for violation of

regulations.

We moved into the room in the third story above the store of Mr. G. N.

Davis, which is rather contracted in proportions, but has the

recommendation of being well ventilated, and having a water view from

the windows.

The apparent ease with which my heavy mess-chest was carried up three

flights of stairs surprised me. It was a good lift for two of us to get

it from the bark to the small boat, and yet this African negro carried

it upon his head from the custom-house and up the stairs without any

inconvenience; for which service I was told that two dumps, or four

cents, was considered a proper compensation.

It is a peculiarity of this city, that burdens are generally carried by

the negroes upon their heads.[6] A large and heavy piece of furniture

will very often be carried upon the heads of four or six negro men, who

keep the step together by chanting or by tapping a bell. They usually

have upon their heads a piece of cloth rolled up after the turban style,

which prevents the direct contact of the hard substance that is carried.

The ordinary receptacle for a number of articles to be carried is a

large, flat wicker-basket, with a concavo-convex bottom, which fits upon

the head; and they move along with quite a load in these baskets, giving

no assistance whatever with the hands. In some instances they are seen

plaiting straw, or sewing up the material in the form of a hat, while

carrying these loads; which indicates a spirit of industry that was

scarcely to be expected of the negro race. I am informed that the

greater portion of the negroes doing this kind of business are slaves,

who hire their own time, and all is for their personal benefit.

We dined at a restaurant, and our bill of fare consisted of pork cutlet,

beefsteak, potted beef, fried Irish potatoes, salad, cucumbers, and

coffee, with bread of excellent quality. For dessert, we had marmalade,

oranges, and bananas, making, together, a most substantial dinner. The

cost for both of us was one dollar and seventy-five cents, which, being

eighty-seven and a half cents each, was rather more expensive living

than our pecuniary resources would warrant. I had not spent any thing,

however, in getting ashore, and having done more physical labor than

usual, my appetite called for something extra, and it was enjoyed.

After dining, we found that night was approaching, and the gas-lights

were already emitting their brilliancy upon the streets. We walked down

to the open space provided with seats in front of the Circle de

Commerce, upon Rua da Direita, and seated ourselves, for the purpose of

observing the manners and customs of the people. I was impressed with

the genteel bearing of those who resorted to this rendezvous; and quite

a large number of well-dressed gentlemen were seated here, or walking

about the open pavement between the seats and the buildings, who gave a

favorable indication of the physical characteristics of the better class

of men. A very fine equipage, with a white driver in livery, stopped

near the seat we occupied, and a gentleman and lady, with their

daughter, as we supposed, alighted from it, all dressed with much

neatness and even elegance. They passed through the fancy confectionery

store below, and ascended to the upper story of the building, where

ice-creams, &c., are served in magnificent style to visitors.

It is very seldom that a Brazilian lady is seen upon the streets of Rio

during the day, which is in part to avoid the scrutiny of men, and

perhaps, also, to obviate the embarrassment of seeing those same men

under circumstances not very becoming for observation. The heat of the

sun during the day is likewise doubtless a reason why the women remain

within doors, and they find the temperature of the night air more

pleasant for exercise. The number of ladies from other regions of the

world, that are now residing in Rio, is beginning to make some changes

in the habits of the sex; as English women or French women go out upon

the street whenever business or inclination calls them to take a walk or

a ride in the city. The custom here has been that of great seclusion

among all classes as to their women; but the more intelligent and

refined Brazilians are learning that a different course is the true

policy for the promotion of the true character of woman.

I had no means of knowing whether the party referred to were natives or

foreigners; but their style indicated refinement and good taste. Their

carriage was of the most fashionable make, with accommodations for four

persons within, and a broad front seat for driver and footman. The upper

part of the body was of open cane-work, and the entrance on either side

wide, so as to give a light and airy appearance to the vehicle. The

livery of the driver and footman was of blue cloth, with silver lace

upon the collar, and a high, slick hat of enamelled leather with a band

of silver. The team in this instance, as in most of the fine turnouts of

the fashionables, was a pair of fine mules; and really these slick and

lively animals, being of full size and well proportioned, present here a

better appearance than horses.

This promenade is one of the few places of resort for those who do not

go to the theatre and opera; and though there is a hotel and an

ice-cream saloon here, there is no special entertainment for the

numerous visitors that come and go in the course of an evening.

So far as I have been able to learn from others, balls and parties of a

public character are not frequent in this city; and indeed the whole

constitution of society is opposed to this kind of promiscuous

assemblage of the sexes.

There are several large establishments for theatrical performances, and

also opera houses, suited to the different classes of people. The

Emperor considers it a matter of sufficient interest to sustain and

patronize these places of recreation, and I am informed that he

frequently attends in person accompanied by his family. His object is

doubtless to promote what he esteems the happiness of his people, and

not from any idea that they will be thus diverted, so as to prevent

their minds from being directed into mischievous channels.

The pacific character of this people, and their great proneness to

adhere to an existing state of things in all the departments of life,

with their general admiration for the noble traits of the Emperor,

affords a guarantee for the stability of this empire, independent of its

constitution and laws.

FRIDAY, _September 15, 1865_.

I called this morning, with Mr. Mallory, at the office of Major Pedro

Latão da Cunha, Secretary in the Naval Bureau, to whom he presented his

testimonials of qualification for service in the Ordnance Department.

This gentleman speaks the English language, and seems to take

considerable interest in promoting his wishes. He advised him to draw up

an application to the government, setting forth his former services, and

what duty he desired to enter upon here, and proposed to present it with

his recommendation to the Minister of State.

Upon making an inquiry as to the practicability of being employed in the

Hospital Department as a surgeon, after completing my investigations in

the country, he expressed a favorable opinion; and stated that it would

be desirable that I should draw up a paper indicating the nature of the

public service in which I had been engaged, and the position I would

like to occupy here.

He proposed to take this likewise in his special charge, and to use his

influence to advance my wishes. It had not been my intention to make an

application for any position under the Brazilian government at this

time; but since this gentleman manifests such an accommodating spirit, I

may find it convenient to undertake for a time some duty connected with

military hospitals, near the seat of war, and thus see something more of

the country towards the south.

After closing this interview, I repaired to the store of Mr. G. N.

Davis, and he accompanied me to the office of Senor Don J. C. Galvão,

No. 23 Rua Dos Ciganos. This gentleman also speaks English very well,

and received me with great respect.

He heard my statement of the projected move of myself and my friends to

Brazil with evident interest; and exhibited to me maps of the country,

with records of lands owned by the government, and also descriptions of

improved farms of private parties, which were offered for sale.

The price of public lands ranges from twenty-two cents to eighty-eight

cents per acre, to those making an independent purchase. To those

without the means of buying land, or of supporting themselves

separately, one hundred and fifty acres of land will be provided, under

the regulations of the government, in one of their colonies—to be paid

for at the rate of one dollar and thirty-three cents per acre, one-third

at the end of two years, one-third at the end of four years, and the

last third at the end of six years.

The family are to be furnished with agricultural implements free of

charge, and to be allowed one dollar a day for six months for each

adult, with transportation from Rio to the colony free of cost. As yet

there has been no advance of funds by the government of Brazil to bring

emigrants from the United States to this country; though a small

proportion of the outlay for transportation of emigrants from Europe has

been borne, with a view to assist those who would not otherwise have the

means of getting to Brazil. There is already, in Rio, an establishment

to which those without means are sent to be lodged and boarded free of

expense, until they can be forwarded to a colony. In these government

colonies roads are opened, houses of small size are built, and churches,

schools, priests, and a director are provided; but if it is the desire

of the colonists to furnish their own schools and churches, it is not

here prohibited; yet, if the churches are other than those of the Roman

Catholic religion, they cannot be built with a steeple or other

ostensible indication of a house of worship. Mirabile dictu!

I stated to Dom Galvão that there were many people of good standing in

the southern portion of the United States, who were able to provide land

and the means of subsistence for themselves, and yet would find great

inconvenience in affecting the transportation across the ocean, unless

some systematic means of assistance could be devised by the Brazilian

government. There will be also persons, doubtless, desirous of coming to

Brazil, whose means are very much reduced, and yet their former

associations in life would render them desirable companions to those

having more resources; and if those without means could receive the

assistance extended to the colonists by the government, and yet be

allowed to join their friends in a settlement of their own, it would

materially facilitate their location in this country.

If the Brazilian government will render the same aid to our emigrants

who are without means that has been extended to her own colonists, it

would find at the end of six months that all further outlay or

responsibility was unnecessary; and these people would co-operate with

those having resources, to build up and make useful all the industrial

enterprises of the settlement.

To furnish lands at the lowest practicable rate, and construct public

highways, without any duty upon importations, are at present proposed by

the government of Brazil, as encouragement to emigration.

Dom Galvão proposed to represent my views upon the subject of emigration

to the Minister of Agriculture, and expressed his conviction that some

practicable scheme would be devised to effect our object of being

associated together, under regulations that would be satisfactory to all

concerned.

Mr. Davis called with me also to see Mr. Milford, Acting Consul of the

United States, by whom I was courteously treated, and informed that a

large body of land had been intrusted to his charge, located near the

Dom Pedro II. railroad. He stated that papers were in his possession

giving full particulars of its nature and resources, and that they might

be seen by calling at his office, No. 28 Rua Del Alfandega.

I was then presented to Mr. James, No. 15 Rua da Direita, and had a

conversation with him as to the settlement of Dr. Blue and others, near

the Bay of Paranagua. He informed me that Mr. Wells, of St. Louis, had

gone on a visit to that locality, and was expected to return in a few

days, when all available information might be had from him. I had

requested Dom Galvão to make arrangements for me to visit that region,

but no further steps will be taken until I hear the report of Mr. Wells.

There are some private interests involved, which have enlisted parties

as advocates of the lands in the vicinity of the Bay of Paranagua; and I

doubt whether it is desirable to look at a country where those expecting

to speculate in lands have already made investments with a view to sell

again.

SATURDAY, _September 16, 1865_.

Learning from Mr. James that Mr. Wells had returned to the city, I

accepted his offer to give me an introduction to him. He gave me the

particulars of the bay, and the river extending up from it, with an

account of the recent settlements near that place, conveying rather a

favorable idea of the surroundings of the Bay of Paranagua; yet I found

that he was not so favorably impressed as to think of making his home

there.

I concluded accordingly that it would not perhaps suit as a location for

me and my friends; and that the advantages of other localities would be

investigated without visiting this place at present.

Having heard from several disinterested persons that the province of São

Paulo combined fertility of soil and adaptation especially to the

culture of coffee, with a pleasant and healthy climate, I was inclined

to think very favorably of that region. Upon an examination of its

outline on the map it was found that it extended sufficiently towards

the north to afford all the tropical fruits, and that its southern limit

would secure a mitigation of heat, without being exposed to much frost

during the winter, lying between 19° 38′ and 25° 39′ south latitude.

Under these circumstances I withdrew my application for transportation

to the Bay of Paranagua, and asked Dom Galvão to arrange for a visit to

the province of São Paulo.

He had been down to see me, and not finding me in, had left a paper,

embodying modifications of the regulations pertaining to emigrants,

which are intended to carry out my views. Upon having this document,

written in Portuguese, translated by Mr. Hagins, it did not seem very

definite or satisfactory, and I will confer with the author in person,

when we meet again on Monday at his office. Then I will get more precise

information as to the points submitted in this paper, and can determine

whether any practical benefit is likely to accrue from the acceptance of

his propositions.

Mr. Mallory and myself were expected at the office of Major Pedro Latão

da Cunha, at 11 o’clock a. m., but, failing to have the papers in

readiness, we did not reach there until after 12 o’clock, when he had

left, and we were fully conscious of our dereliction. As we returned,

however, he hailed us from the opposite side of the street; and on

speaking with him, we found that he had been to learn the cause of our

failure to meet him. This made us notice the great importance of

promptness and punctuality in keeping our appointments with officials.

He proposed that we should call at his office on Monday at 12 o’clock,

when he would go with us to see the Minister of State, and endeavor to

have our applications acted upon forthwith.

Though there is no special consequence attached to the disposition that

is made of mine, it is of great moment to Mr. Mallory to get a speedy

and favorable response to his application.

My understanding with different parties as to matters of business,

indicates that I may, in a short time, ascertain definitely something as

to the lands that may be available; and learn further my future

relations to this government.

SUNDAY, _September 17, 1865_.

In compliance with a previous understanding, Mr. Mallory and myself went

immediately after breakfast to Captain Buhlaw’s quarters, on one of the

highest hills in the city, whence he and his wife accompanied us to the

museum. This visit was made to-day, as we were informed that it was open

only upon Sundays.

We examined a very extensive collection in the departments of

Ornithology and Herpatology, with a fair assortment of minerals, of

which the specimens of native diamond engaged my special attention.

There was a very interesting variety of coins of different nations, and

also some specimens of paper money, among which I observed a one dollar

($1.00) greenback note, and others of smaller denomination of the United

States currency. These certainly have very little claim to a place among

coins, except as curiosities.

In the collection of fishes, I observed a very badly-prepared specimen

of flying fish, and were it not for the great interest my friends will

take in one preserved by me on the voyage across the water, it might be

presented to this museum, so that the characteristics of this truly

remarkable phenomenon could be appreciated.

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had

precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil

which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with

proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the

climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of

which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great

difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of

this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of

coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to

which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have

Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a

larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know

from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect

is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so

called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the

vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment

of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known

only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite

surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities

of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name

was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee

would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing

the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered

according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of

this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have

met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London,

and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a

tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from

all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies

are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii[7]

and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the

Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the

capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our

examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted

attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other

specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a

present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant

of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is

quite costly.

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an

omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of

four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to

be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the

residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to

the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in

some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements

have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part,

large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental,

in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more

unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and

the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either

side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout

its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the

lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the

Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de

Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its

improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this

route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city.

The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I

observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than

elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the

accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords

most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus

makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this

region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal

church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I

got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of

it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está

Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service

had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox

exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance

of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid

hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman

Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more

associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of

faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house,

with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a

neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar

arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall

of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the

ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of

genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them

to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race.

The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he

remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views

of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic

churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the

Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of

our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their

brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no

inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.

The demonstrations witnessed to-day in Rio show an utter disregard for

the solemnity of the Sabbath. A large body of volunteers in holiday

uniform, with a band of thirty musicians, were encountered early this

morning upon one of the principal streets. In the next place, quite a

number of soldiers, with their guns, badges, and flags, were seen

assembled in a most gorgeous church, for the celebration of high mass.

This ceremony was conducted with great pomp by the priest, and a large

number of dignitaries held lighted candles of most enormous proportions,

forming a concourse around the altar, which again was lighted up by

hundreds of candles, though it was in open day, with a clear bright sun

shedding its rays on all who would enjoy the light which God has given.

As we went in search of the English church this evening, we found a

large assemblage of persons in a public garden, drinking in groups at

tables arranged for the purpose, while a band was entertaining the party

with music, from a stand erected for their special accommodation.

Immediately adjoining this garden was a building, in which a circus was

performing, and we could hear the applause and laughter, such as might

be expected at a farce or comic exhibition.

The day seems to be regarded rather as a holiday for amusement, and yet

many of the business houses are kept open during the Sabbath, and there

is no law of the country requiring its observance as a day of rest from

labor, or to be kept holy to the Lord.

A great many of the people attend mass in the forenoon of Sunday, and

then join in any recreation that may be presented. It seems that the

theatres and opera houses regard Sunday evening as specially suited to

attract a large number of persons, and usually have their most

attractive pieces on such occasions.

In returning to-night from preaching, a large assemblage of negroes was

observed immediately upon the side of the street, and, upon entering the

building, we found it was a church for the exclusive use of the black

people. Here many were kneeling in front of the altar, while some

service was held by one of their own color; and, at a side stand, there

was another black personage, who furnished applicants with a small

printed paper, upon the payment of two coppers of the value of four

cents. Mr. Mallory said these were no doubt indulgences for some sin

committed, and the trade seemed to be going on prosperously. There were

no seats in this building, and those who did not kneel sat flat upon the

floor, as I have observed to be the case in all the services, when they

did not stand. The churches do not have seats, and perhaps there is no

regular discourse delivered to the congregations in this country.

So far as I am able to infer any thing of the spirit manifested in their

acts, I should regard the religion of the people in Rio as having very

little of the holy unction, and the natural tendency of a State

establishment is that of formality.

MONDAY, _September 18, 1865_.

Immediately after breakfast this morning we called upon Dr. Bosworth,

who had been at our quarters on Saturday without seeing us. He desired

to apprise us of an appointment; that Major Pedro Latão da Cunha would

accompany us to-day at 12 o’clock to visit the Minister of State. Of

this we had already been apprised by the gentleman in person, and at the

hour specified we proceeded with him to the large public buildings where

this minister receives audience.

Captain Buhlaw having also an application for public service,

accompanied Mr. Mallory and myself, and was included with us in the kind

offices of presentation to Conselheiro Saraiva, the Minister of State

for the empire of Brazil. Next to the Emperor, he is the highest

dignitary of the land, and in his absence at the seat of war, this

official takes charge of matters that are intended for the special

consideration of the Emperor. We were received by him with every mark of

attention and consideration; and the interview terminated with an

assurance that each of us would receive the appointments as desired.[8]

He said, farther, that our applications were favorably considered, not

so much from any demand for our services, as that the empire of Brazil

wished to extend this recognition and appreciation of our motives, in

coming to this country as a place of residence.

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed

me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his

courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to

a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to

examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of

land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of

the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars,

which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and

sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with

cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted

to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am

further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very

much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is

not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr.

Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at

the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social

interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed

and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of

the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been

written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the

many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give

them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present.

It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements

presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he

requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business

mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was

given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and

deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for

seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and

refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this

brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable

opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be

seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking

in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows

are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the

outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for

exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not

warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance;

but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and

various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there

has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under

my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste.

There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as

gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that

display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish

people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious

display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even

elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is

vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the

Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by

the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn

by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and,

though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun,

I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In

lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go

out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the

sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the

“vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an

umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to

you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply

yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This

serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the

riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

TUESDAY, _September 19, 1865_.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming

acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area

of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate

limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are

considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to

health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below

is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford

desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water,

around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford

quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares

of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of

these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing

business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a

considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there

permanently in various industrial occupations.

Receiving an invitation from Dr. Raney, the chief of the Ferry Company,

to take a ride with him on one of the boats, we crossed the bay to the

town of Nitherohi; and learned that this was entirely distinct from the

city of Rio, being the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro, and

having its own independent municipal regulations. San Domingos

constitutes an adjunct to this, and is the seat of numerous factories of

cigarettes, while it is a most attractive home for private families.

There are two landings, at which these boats stop, and the number of

persons getting on and off, morning and evening, are almost equal to

that of the New York and Brooklyn ferry boats. There is not, however,

such a continuous passing during the day and night, though a single boat

finds profitable employment until 12 o’clock at night.

The fee for ferriage during the day is six cents. This is doubled from

dark until 9 o’clock, when it is again doubled until 10 o’clock, and

from this until 12 o’clock the last is doubled, making the fare fifty

cents. Thus persons who keep late hours, attending theatres, balls, or

parties in the city, are taxed with extra fare to return to their homes,

and it must have some effect towards inducing men to remain with their

own families during the evenings.

It is an interesting fact that these boats, being similar to the

double-enders of New York, should have been brought across the ocean

from the United States by their own engines; and though they were in a

gale, and got separated on the way, they suffered but little damage, and

reached here in good condition for service. Besides the two that steamed

out, there was a third brought upon the water, by a temporary rigging of

sails. The whole was superintended by Dr. Raney in person, and indicates

much energy and business capacity on his part. There is another boat,

which was purchased in Rio, and has been remodelled so as to suit this

special service, but it is not yet ready to go upon the line of the

ferry company.

The daily receipts on this line of ferry boats are not usually less than

four hundred dollars, which no doubt covers the wear and tear, with

interest on the capital, and leaves a large net income. Yet the payments

required for putting every thing in thorough order has prevented large

dividends to stockholders.

The Corcovado mountain is the highest accessible point around the city,

and having a road to its summit, the visitor finds there seats for his

comfort, and enjoys a view of all the surroundings of the city. Upon the

slope at the foot of this mountain is a country which is resorted to by

the curious, and presents many elaborate works of art, mingled with the

beauties of nature, to grace the last resting-place of man’s frail body.

One of the most conspicuous features of the populated portion of the

city is the signal telegraph at the observatory, upon the elevated Morro

do Castillo. Here, a flag pole with arms and cords, for the attachment

of various signals, stands in bold relief above the busy throng of

people; and when a vessel is seen to approach from the ocean, such flags

are raised as indicate to all the initiated what is the character of the

vessel, and from whence she comes, usually two or three hours before her

arrival. Upon this hill is also located the military hospital, which has

the reputation of being a remarkably well-regulated establishment, for

the treatment of those connected with the public service.

The monastery is a very extensive structure located upon the Morro San

Antonio, and, being far above the ordinary haunts of the population,

affords the monks comparative exemption from any of the annoyances of

their fellowmen.

Upon the Morro de São Bento is located the convent, for the

accommodation of the Sisters of Charity, and here, I am informed, quite

a large number of nuns are congregated, as a place of perpetual

seclusion from the snares and temptations that are supposed to beset the

sex in this sinful world.

Among the elevations of celebrity, either for their public occupation or

as the residence of persons of distinction, are the Morro da Gloria,

Morro do Senado, and the Morro do Livramento.

While Rome is known as the city of seven hills, this designation might

also be most appropriately applied to Rio de Janeiro, as her hills are

the greatest attractions of the place, affording a delightful variety of

scenery. Leaving the heights we may descend to the plains, and note some

of the public establishments of most interest.

In the central portion of the broad level plain, upon which the business

population of Rio is located, the Quartel des Municipals Permanentes is

found, with all the structures and conveniences for administering the

affairs of the city.

The public offices of the ministers and officials of government of the

empire are situated upon the western border of an open space, called the

Praca de Acclamacão, or the Campo de Santa Anna. On the south side of

this space is the neat and yet modest-looking Congress Hall of the

deputies of the empire. On the north side, in connection with the

densely populated portion of the city, stands the large museum, of which

mention has already been made at a former date. The street running to

the east of this campo has upon the opposite side a large number of

stores, with several buildings, in which there are apartments for the

public officials of the government.

In the middle of this grand plaza stands a large opera house, which is

the great resort of the common people throughout the city.

This magnificent piece of ground, commonly called the campo, lies quite

unimproved as yet; and the washerwomen of the vicinity congregate here

to use the fountains of water with which it is supplied, and to spread

out their clothes upon the green grass that covers its surface. It will

ere long receive the attention of the authorities, and be laid out in

walks and decorated with flowers and evergreens, and must become a very

attractive resort for the pent-up population of this metropolital

rendezvous of all the nations of earth. It is only recently that much

interest has been manifested in ornamental public grounds, and the

Botanic Gardens, with other more central spots of land, already show the

taste of a progressive administration, in beautifying and adorning the

rural loveliness of nature by the chaste hand of art.

The most elaborate improvement to be seen in the city of Rio is the

exquisitely executed equestrian statue of Dom Pedro Primeira, which

stands in the middle of the Praca da Constituicão. The first Emperor is

represented in full military costume on horseback, and with the scroll

of the constitution raised aloft in one hand, while the other grasps the

reins of the bridle.

The pedestal has upon its four sides, respectively, four pairs of

Indians, with animals and reptiles, representing the regions named upon

the corresponding faces. This portion of the structure has inscribed

upon it, likewise, the principal rivers of the empire, arranged with

relation to the localities indicated; and thus affords a historic

picture of the country, with its geographical features, brought into one

interesting group.

The base is made of neatly-hewn granite, and comports admirably with the

massive elegance of the whole device. There are two small reservoirs of

water, with a “jet d’eau” at some distance from the statue, upon each

side of the square; and the artificial vines and foliage, with colored

flowers, look so true to nature, that persons are very prone to suppose

they have grown in the water. The grounds are laid out with excellent

taste, and enclosed by a neat iron fence, giving an air of completeness

and uniqueness that is eminently becoming to the subject.

Notwithstanding this handsome testimonial to the first Emperor indicates

that he had endeared himself to his people, so as to make them feel

pride in honoring his memory, yet his policy was so contrary afterwards

to the wishes of his subjects, that he was under the necessity of

abdicating his throne, and left the country to end his days in Portugal.

His lineal descendant, the present Emperor, succeeded him, and entered

upon the exercise of his high functions, having a regent to officiate in

the performance of the responsible public duties of the empire at the

outset, and subsequently administering all his business with the most

enlightened regard for the interests of his people.

It must be a source of painful reflection to every Brazilian, in looking

upon this statue, to think that the original could not be sustained by

the people who had placed him in authority, and though, like Washington,

he may live in the hearts of his countrymen, his grave rests not upon

his own soil, as that of the great North American.

WEDNESDAY, _September 20, 1865_.

A communication was received quite unexpectedly, yesterday evening, from

Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, inviting me to meet

him this morning, at ten o’clock, at his house, number nine, Rua da

Joanna.

Taking a hack, I proceeded to his residence at the time specified, and,

upon entering, quite an awkward scene ensued, as neither understood the

language of the other, and there was no interpreter present. Making an

attempt to converse in French did not relieve our embarrassment, as my

stock of the language was too limited to understand or to make myself

understood in that tongue. At length, he wrote, at my suggestion, in

French, that a gentleman who spoke English would arrive shortly to act

as interpreter. Understanding this, I took a seat, and remained quietly

until the interpreter came. Our intercourse being now made easy, he

desired to know my views and wishes in regard to the measures that might

promote the emigration of my friends to Brazil. I told him that the

object of visit was to look for a home for my own family, and to make an

examination of the country, with a view to report the result for the

information of other families, whose unfortunate situation in the South

induced them to desire a change of residence, and, in like manner with

myself, hoped that a desirable location might be found in this country.

He expressed a great desire to encourage the class of people to whom I

referred, and said that he would take the matter at once into

consideration, and devise a plan for assisting those who were desirous

of coming to Brazil from the Southern States.

In the mean time, he proposed to render me all the aid in his power for

a thorough examination of the country; and, as I had already concluded

to visit the province of São Paulo, he informed me that a ticket would

be furnished me to go by the steamer to-morrow to Santos, and that he

would supply me with letters to the President of the province, and to

other influential persons in different parts of the country. He told me

that passage would be furnished likewise to an interpreter, if one could

be secured, and that he would provide in like manner for any friend I

might desire to accompany me on the expedition. He further stated, that

under his direction to the President of the province, all the requisite

facilities would be afforded to me by him, for my exploration of the

lands lying in the interior of the province, and expressed a wish that I

might find there a suitable location for myself and my friends.

I learned in the course of the conversation that the minister comes from

the province of São Paulo; and, therefore, perhaps he feels more

interest in giving encouragement to an investigation of that region,

than if my examination was directed to some other quarter. My

predilection for this locality being entirely independent of any

partiality on the part of the minister, I will yet gladly avail myself

of the advantages which may accrue from this fact, and with the offer of

assistance in making a thorough exploration, I will, for the present,

suspend all further action in regard to an appointment in the Hospital

Department, and devote myself to this examination of the lands and

resources of this fertile province.

The gentleman who acted as interpreter is the secretary of the Minister

of Agriculture, and it was understood that he would bring to-morrow

morning, to my quarters, the letters and other papers with which I am to

be provided for making this tour of examination.

The ticket for passage upon the steamer was given to me to-day; and all

the necessary indorsements and stamps put upon my passport at the

treasury and police offices. I can now proceed with my personal

preparations for getting off to-morrow, and will notify Major da Cunha

of my leaving, so that he may take such steps as he may think proper, in

regard to the paper which was to be prepared for the other mission. No

calculation can be made as to the length of time I may be engaged in the

examination of these lands, and my intention is to make a full report of

all my observations, as a guide to my friends and others who may be

interested in the resources of this country.

The residence of Senor Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture,

is in the precinct of São Christovão, and near the palace of the

Emperor, where his family reside. But my pressing duties did not admit

of any delay to visit the royal abode, and I must reserve the privilege

of paying my respects to his majesty for a future occasion. I feel,

however, no special inclination to wait upon the Emperor, unless

business should require me to see him, and his time and patience are

doubtless sufficiently taxed here with visits of mere formality. As he

is absent at the seat of war just now, all the matters of business that

would have taken me to see him will probably be disposed of by his

ministers, and there will be no need to see him.[9]

On the way to São Christovão, I passed the grand butcher pen of the

city, which monopolizes the slaughtering of the cattle for the market.

It is a large establishment, with spacious grounds, and a high cast-iron

fence, having a gate of huge proportions with portals of hewn stone.

There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering

establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately

into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e

Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of

appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of

tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of

ooze, by which the leather is tanned.

Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed

opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the

driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the

city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.

The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for

departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were

expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there

was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this

place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these

omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with

their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at

one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various

points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the

improvements on the plain below.

THURSDAY, _September 21, 1865_.

Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning

to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my

papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of

postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could

be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I

took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon

aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.

We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed

for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of

papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr.

Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of

Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to

charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I

paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me

on arrival at the city of São Paulo.

My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me,

whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to

Santos.

The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and

having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to

make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is

large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious

state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation

is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four

berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my

passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of

this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as

well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in

the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I

am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in

Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but

finished in all her parts with good taste.

The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the

cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in

excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well

prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet

there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and

especially the change of plates for each different article that is

eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time,

indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with

me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the

Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as

at dinner.

The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at

their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach,

or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted

by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is

expected to supply himself as far as practicable.

Persons who concluded their meals, and did not care to wait for those

seated on the bench upon either side of them, crept under the table, and

made their way out at the opposite side, where there was no wall to be

encountered.

Wine is an invariable accompaniment of dinner, and after all is

concluded, it is the custom to serve coffee without milk.

The custom of this country recognizes but two meals a day—breakfast

being from eight to nine o’clock A. M., and dinner from four to five

o’clock P. M. But it is usual to have a cup of coffee upon rising in the

morning, and a cup of tea, with crackers or fancy cakes, is taken at

night.

Tea is generally taken for breakfast by the Brazilians, and when I made

inquiry at the breakfast table for a cup of coffee, it had to be made

before it could be furnished. The cups here are exceedingly small,

holding but little more than an ordinary wine-glass; and the coffee or

tea is made strong in an increase ratio to the size of the receptacle,

which suits my taste very well, as I have no fancy for long coffee, by

which term the Brazilians style it when very weak.

My isolated position among strangers, whose language was unknown to me,

was relieved by meeting aboard Senor Antonio de Barros, to whom I had

been introduced at the house of the Minister of Agriculture. He speaks

English, so as to carry on conversation very well, though he seems to be

impressed with a sense of his deficiency in the use of the language. I

found him quite kindly disposed, and in all respects a gentleman. He

assisted me in making known my wants at the table, and on other

occasions, giving me also a correct pronunciation of the few Portuguese

words which I had acquired for necessary purposes. He proved to be a

very genial and intelligent associate during the voyage, and gave me

important items of information in regard to the province of São Paulo,

in which he resides. He is a brother-in-law of Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa,

the Minister of Agriculture, and his father is Baron of Rerecicoba, so

that his associations are the best of the land. Having received his

education as an engineer in Germany, he speaks that language and French

as well as his native tongue, the Portuguese. His knowledge of English

has been obtained from teachers and reading, without any opportunity of

associating with people speaking the language. Under these

circumstances, I was surprised that he should have so good a

pronunciation and conception of the English language.

There was a young Portuguese aboard of the steamer who also spoke some

English, and manifested a disposition to assist me in getting a

vocabulary of Portuguese words. His pronunciation of English, however,

was very defective, and frequently I could not understand what he

attempted to say to me, which made our intercourse rather embarrassing.

There was a sleight-of-hand operator on the vessel, who afforded

considerable entertainment by his tricks, with a small ivory ball and a

cup or stand with a cover, in which this and other articles would be

placed and removed at will, without any one being able to detect the

process.

Our steamer kept in sight of land throughout the entire route, and

occasionally passed between an island of rock and the shore, giving a

fine view on each side.

FRIDAY, _September 22, 1865_.

After a late breakfast, most of the passengers repaired to the deck,

where comfortable seats were arranged for their accommodation. The

atmosphere was quite cool, and with a brisk wind, I felt as if my

overcoat would be acceptable, but being interested in the scenery I did

not care to go below for the purpose of getting it, and I walked to and

fro upon the deck, so as to keep my blood in active circulation. I was,

perhaps, the only man who did not smoke, and most of them were using the

cigarettes made of the corn husk, containing tobacco, which are very

much in use here by all classes of people. In the Portuguese language

this is called cigar, while our article of that name is called cherotte.

The snuff is ordinarily called tobacco here, and the article for chewing

fumo, thus changing all our terms in the Portuguese language.

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and

the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon

which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills

upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon

the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of

small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would

not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to

move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently

constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made

in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be

relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown

much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a

vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in

the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed

vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of

operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to

be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon

bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects

the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large

supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those

of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and

all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish

whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite

an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early

settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near

this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the

first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become

obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of

Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with

respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I

informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning,

and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de

Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take

dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he

despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety

from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of

affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during

the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind

consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends.

His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and

has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of

Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and

sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and

had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite

jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing

berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the

trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The

berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior

capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The

tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are

arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are

stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across

the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground

is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of

being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island

cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than

in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into

successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only

afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles

might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other

articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with

gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect

of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw

also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a

neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance.

These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good

sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in

extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of

indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs.

Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and

though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her

as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned

nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and

had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen

was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had

an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city;

but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr.

Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house.

Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all

parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of

appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were

more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who

resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the

largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated

that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands

of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see

different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that

business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several

days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and

should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going,

so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others

in that section.

I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife;

Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He

has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others

having large estates that may be for sale.

Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose

hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his

house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his

invitation, I of course accepted it.

Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and

water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which

makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit

it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see

this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement

elsewhere, until I examine that locality.

Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of

any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of

indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of

excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are

presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The

railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo,

and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate

very much the transportation of products to this point; which will

afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro.

Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of

São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the

centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.

After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my

attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city,

which cannot be noticed now.

In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is

styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the

tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province

of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the

_Anglo-Brazilian Times_ as voyaging through the country.

SATURDAY, _September 23, 1865_.

Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke

at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain

and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as

had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in

readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some

promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having

charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat

to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be

provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered

breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in

advance of the regular hour.

All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the

diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of

the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his

brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses,

the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the

shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his

legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over

the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M.,

and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a

diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of

us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for

the bandboxes also.

At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver

on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the

four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and

the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot;

yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease

until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles.

He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in

front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the

four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.

The steep ascent of this mountain side is made by a zigzag road, which

is cut from the slopes of the cliffs, and paved with stones. At some

places there are precipices descending suddenly from the edge of the

road to great depths, so as to make the traveller feel serious

apprehensions for his passage along the rather narrow track of the road.

I was told that mules have been sometimes forced over these abrupt edges

into the awful gorge beneath, from the crowding of a large number into

these narrow places, and their utter destruction is of course

inevitable. There has been no instance, however, of any accident to the

diligencia, which run this route from day to day; and hence a sort of

guarantee of safety is afforded by this mode of conveyance, which is not

felt upon the newly-constructed railroad line, which ascends the serra

by inclined planes and stationary engines.

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water

running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there

is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff

covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing

downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to

another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge,

to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my

utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense

water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated

at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most

enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city

of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position

more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain,

which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the

serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath,

with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is

a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand

panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were

encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the

interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those

which were passed after getting into the diligence, it is a fair

estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus

we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred

and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way

to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal

number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with

various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the

interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the

improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was

carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to

tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will

ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos

to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon

the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has

perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of

the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of

construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is

the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a

considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the

diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I

was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas,

($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas

($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of

three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making

together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with

the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of

cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more

expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad

seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way from Santos to

São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I

am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like

an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature

in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the

resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should

take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various

size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in

burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant

called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing

previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these

insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a

considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica,

which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They

burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as

to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with

sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown

with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is

said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this

province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of

the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are

particularly destructive.[10]

Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through

which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our

dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of

the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans

somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had

not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her

return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite

interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these

beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is

still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts

at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden.

With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body,

and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is

made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and

children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the

country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our

people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation

which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot

travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia,

and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own

language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr.

Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them was

found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until

after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the

house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of

others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for

two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment,

and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late

hours to suit my taste.

SUNDAY, _September 24, 1865_.

The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return

of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some

shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets

that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was

violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day

of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and

English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried

in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my

letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his

satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to

aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more

pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more

persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce

me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da

Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to

that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton

Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several years at school in

Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and

French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit,

and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.[11]

MONDAY, _September 25, 1865_.

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in

consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton

to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I

bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to

my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of

land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or

lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be

willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per

acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from this source, and

accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave

of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar,

who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language

fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the

President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão

da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way

was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat

and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was

delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by

the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President

indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring

the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the

understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven

o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any

previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to

be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to

accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very

much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and

several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was

intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man

of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with

me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business

on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with

the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that

might render me service until my baggage should arrive by the cart of

the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of

another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this

evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s

trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving,

Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke

Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and

should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that

I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped

for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in

communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for

the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of

Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department,

and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São

Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for

examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of

proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him

that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of

assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction

and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently

designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as

yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may

without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party

at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together by kindred feelings,

as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open

rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and

their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to

these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the

actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not

understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very

different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the

harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening

attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece

of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of

recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way

that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow

movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is

spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and

it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to

do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is

customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of

articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords,

and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a

Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of

Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal

welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a

like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to

his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation

of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house

was open to me at all times.

TUESDAY, _September 26, 1865_.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that

it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the

proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his

readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the

President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to

Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the

propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter,

as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals

which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was

propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton;

when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which

he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought

he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when

I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration

with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept

whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience,

that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit;

and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with

the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard

to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed;

and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom

Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference

to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this

expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the

matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to

make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was

entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr.

Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were

reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better

to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my

meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons.

Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the

accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of

victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I

found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and

myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the

stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation

suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my

associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from

Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political

prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of

either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent

struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by

the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a

recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which

is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of

sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them

impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in

the evening, I proceeded with them to the lower apartment of the house,

where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in

the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English

and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the

reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he

closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises

to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part

to the comprehension of the others present.

WEDNESDAY, _September 27, 1865_.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the

President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he

will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be

satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to

meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably

advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed

estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this

would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no

misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter,

as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province

which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of

our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the

minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be

necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to

pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of

the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more

apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the

interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the

authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just

expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public

bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is

now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas

(fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat

apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no

doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of

many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore

likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a

frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid,

(half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a

naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of

waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of

considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to

the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those

who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night;

and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an

hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his

readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman

from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions

of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most

eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our

means.

THURSDAY, _September 28, 1865_.