by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All
the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of
the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At two
P.M. most of the people returned: the report was only partially
true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was
known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to
get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power
of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During
my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ
greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance,
but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great
many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as
to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two
months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious
for the villain Majíbí and his party to leave me; I cannot bear the
sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in
some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the
last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy
is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I
had only protection here, I would give him the stick.
Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day,
as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on
the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we
did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to
the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of
the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise
a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit
to ripen. At one P.M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert
arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row
with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid
of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave
me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind
as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the
Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative
to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow
is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse
will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy
to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.
Friday, July 8.—Therm. 82°. Felt poorly all day. _Dies non_.
Saturday, July 9.—Therm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing
for the káfilah, which is to start for Suweïrah on Monday. Feel
far from well. Went to the medicine chest: but find that the least
dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Damánís are
anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know
not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a
presentiment that it will be a failure.
Sunday, July 10°.—Therm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy
and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for the
constitution, as the excessive heat has been succeeded by a very cold
wind in the evening, and this followed by a most sultry night. All
the people are fully occupied in preparing for the káfilah, which
is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c.; I find that
the ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador
it brings sixty dollars: the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very
poorly all day, and did not go out.
Monday, July 11.—Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The
káfilah had hardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They
came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring
tribe, as one of the Sheïkh’s friends had been killed by a Marabout
of that people: after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as
the Marabout was _non compos_, there could be no intention of an
insult, and thus instead of a fight we had a feast. The Damánís
are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear
I must give all the money: it is an anxious time for me. There
is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah[114]
people are not over civil. The Sheïkh, poor man, is desirous to
pay me every attention; but he is fearful of enforcing a proper
authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice
personified. The heat is excessive.
Tuesday, July 12.—Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing
to-day; the sun literally scorches: all are gasping. The slaves
are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahrá on such a day,
twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of
the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the
astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat
still tremendous. I have been drinking tea for more than an hour,
and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves:
hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between
the Sheïkh and his son; but matters are, I suppose, now made up,
as the son came to pray in his father’s room. Some ostrich marrow
was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some
eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself
somewhat better than yesterday.
Wednesday, July 13.—Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am looking
most anxiously for the post. The Damánís have all left, except
Mohammed and Hámed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire’s answer. I
gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats: they were highly
pleased, and so was the Sheïkh. At three P.M. the thermometer under
the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun
is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very
bad spirits, and went early to rest: hope to get a little sleep.
Thursday, July 14.—Therm. 84°. To-day all are done up and out
of temper, with the exception of Abú. The heat is excessive; we
are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze,
and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early,
oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat,
have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the
post; it has not arrived to-day; if it does not come to-morrow,
I shall suspect something has gone wrong.
Friday, July 15.—Therm. 84°. _Dies non_. Out of health, spirits
and temper. No post.
Saturday, July 16.—Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly; kept my
bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in
great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is
owing to the villain Majíbí.
Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early
and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post
arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market,
who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I
cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of
grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he
had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all
they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess
by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she
could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot
go to the Leïlá myself, but have been promised something as near
to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at
home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed
up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool;
contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had
for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater
than I had ever felt. At two P.M. the thermometer in the sun was at
141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past three P.M. and did not
sink below 138° till half-past five P.M. I was obliged to cover the
stirrups and _kummiyahs_,[115] and all metal articles, with pieces
of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and
cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W.,
but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the
mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the
hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it;
there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My
fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All
are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nine
P.M. the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as
I have often witnessed here after great heat. At ten P.M. the heat
returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half
destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.
Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was
more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a
hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on
various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended
one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the
distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven,
from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to
115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun;
and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the
thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece
of stick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about
a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Hanging. | Standing. | Lying. | S[116]|
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| At One | 119° | 126° | 143° | |
| Two | 119 | 124 | 139 | 109° |
| Three | 121 | 131 | 139 | 110 |
| Five | 120 | 121 | 126 | 107 |
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this
period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried
a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound,
at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest
interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was
about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always
had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that
I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain
how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell
me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind;
that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I
knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun
was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate
of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each
other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this
came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the
burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was
that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At five P.M. I
received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure,
as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner. It is
now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of
villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued
of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.
Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No
sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has
at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our
starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite
impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north,
in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body
is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the
temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on,
but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.
Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no
rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning
at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at three P.M. Went
out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some
eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I
have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught
of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The
walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is
distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are
preparing to start to-morrow.
Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a
quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the
action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that
passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards
from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to
112°; at three P.M. it was taken away to be used as hot water; this
happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The
heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all
day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.
Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall
of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached
within 15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill,
and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is
now preparing for Suweïrah.
Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this
morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were
parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying
in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly;
and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to
the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me
up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also,
and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.
Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the
house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces,
called here ................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they
came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the
others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe
raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú
went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán
to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the
latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to
purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick,
and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with
fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had
a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore
subject for the Sheïkh,[117] who has had a quarrel with his women,
and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.
Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was
still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.
Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a
large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these sudden
changes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a
little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.
Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an
addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a
new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had
no appetite.
Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the
house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence
of the war still raging.
Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much
better, thank God.
Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very
pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the
day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the
desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly
obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from
one to three P.M. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to
112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service,
being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three
or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint
of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.
Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out
a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon
we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.
Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of
dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle
exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a
sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post,
which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and
will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.
Tuesday, Aug. 2.—Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house.
Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong
breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three
last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been
driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went
out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received
large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to
ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their
appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the
bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself,
and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post,
which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched
to look after the postman.
Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which
nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post,
and all in anxiety.
Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night
cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This
evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh
is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí,
has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make
mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to
keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length
of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his
treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.
Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat
better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food
and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife
is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case
is to be heard to-morrow.
Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El
Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with
tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit
from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written
to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh
said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire,
like this paying before hand. Had a large party at breakfast;
there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the
prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me
an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at
Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent
coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on,
brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write
privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more
than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in
having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah,
unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe:
these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have
complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall
make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through
him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.
Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again,
and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day
in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night;
but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118]
nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some
mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to
Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning
to be myself again.
Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The
post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has
sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be
procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí
’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an
event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all
the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I
have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the
Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and
would not take a credit for the one thousand. My good opinion of the
Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt
done up again by this business.
Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I
had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass
shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more
so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the
Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer,
and found that it stood
At 10 A.M. in the shade 80° in the sun 110°.
— 12 M. 82° 124°.
— 2 P.M. 82° 120°.
— 6 76° 85°.
— 10 in doors 75° out of doors 70°.
I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going
to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money
before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I
am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having
been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to
dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot
allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad
as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.
Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All
the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through
the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign
remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to
go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a
Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor
was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many
Jinns[119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader,
where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor;
that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and
would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant,
who was the father of the boy, to be greatly distressed for the want
of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd
told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep
away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road,
which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the
spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the
condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.
Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who
has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing
fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for
looking at it.
Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind
cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and
threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little,
but made myself ill again.
Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to
clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah,
which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from
the desert, which nearly blinded us: at five P.M. the glare was
so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the
houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the
effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons;
we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were
some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has
been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster,
the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch,
although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me
he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad
got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh
is not yet returned.
Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is
starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I
am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people,
and partly by way of medicine.