was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú
called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my
Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense
curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of
the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to
order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me:
they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth,
and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon
the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many
particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had
been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in
less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for
halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence
to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two
with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a
person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place,
but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days,
and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the
other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days,
where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again;
from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is
sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk
says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I
can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very
different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering
account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses,
and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and that one of his
hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made
great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with
a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like
a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot,
and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not
refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and
are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened:
should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I
feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók
(Sók el Múlíd)[107] commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa
in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently
the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles
E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs
E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing
W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the
sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is
said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this
place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S.,
is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also
that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the
young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about
seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen,
although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh[108]
(drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second
morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short
heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds,
many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed
in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.
Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís
are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were
astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as
the others. Foot very sore.
Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock
upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight
among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief
Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten:
all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox
are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small
piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and
occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109] I have now been here two
months, and there has not been a single death out of a population
of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather
has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost
starved. Mahmúd cut his stick[110] to-day. The sick are increasing,
and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.
Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been
felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose
from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A
strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been
fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer
person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay
the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave
this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again
demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would
to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see,
however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors
call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The
son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that
he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which
I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would
give him some; and after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse
off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar;
which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.
Saturday, June 18.—Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels
scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It
is the glorious anniversary; how will it go off in London after a
peace of twenty-one years. Hámed Damání is quite recovered, and
the Sheïkh’s eyes are better: the latter cannot understand how
some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number,
and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from
Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances,
I cannot expect to get off in less than a month; but only let that
be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England
will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The
house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not
venture to clean it: my things, once out of doors, would all go to
rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of
idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day:
the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer,
ablution and eating: they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts
them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is brought. I
am tired to death.
Sunday, June 19.—Therm. 80°. All are hard at work in packing up
for the Sók Múlíd (Sok Assa), to which they go to-morrow. Another
disgusting scene took place in the court-yard this morning. A fine
woman was pulled about, and exposed amidst the jeers of all these
beasts: as she was handsome, the price asked was 150 mithkáls; but
none would offer more than 130. As the bargain was being concluded
for some Aj and Reïsh, there was a short deficiency to make up;
which, after much cavilling, was settled by throwing in a little
boy. This was, indeed, a sad scene for a Sunday morning. Went to
my den in disgust, where I read the prayers, and kept out of sight
the rest of the day. The place is crowded with strangers. Spoke very
strongly to the Sheïkh about my detention; he assured me that he was
only consulting my safety; that in eight or ten days all arrangements
would be completed, and begs of me to be patient.
Monday, June 20.—Therm. 76°. The house is comparatively quiet: most
of the party are gone to Sók Múlíd. Had a quiet day, throughout
the whole of which there was a cool breeze from the N.W. The sun
set in a heavy bank running along the whole of the horizon.
Tuesday, June 21.—Therm. 68°. Up at one A.M. to take observations,
&c.; the night was very clear, and the bank disappeared in the W.;
the wind was N.W., with heavy clouds in the S.; the mist lowered to
the tops of the houses: a heavy rain in the S.W. by W., but clear
towards the N. At nine A.M. all the place was in commotion, and the
Sheïkh and his people were off on horseback in different directions,
to look for a thief, who got into the yard of the house last night,
and stole the Sheïkh’s favourite white horse. The Sheïkh’s son
has returned, but the Damánís and others are in full chase. The
stolen horse was one of great speed, and the thief had eight hours
start. It will be interesting to know when the Damánís will come
up with him; they have got their Shérb el Ríh; have looked at the
print of the horse’s feet and his dung, and they will be sure to
trace him by either sight or scent: like the B’híls in India,
if they once see the track they never lose it. At ten P.M. one man
returned, who stated that the Damánís said the horse had stopped,
and they would now find him before morning. The man who brought this
intelligence had ridden sixty miles, without intermission, on a mere
bag of bones. The horses from here are not like the Shérb el Ríh;
they are knocked up after five hours’ work: but the animals were
all fresh when this man left them. My horse was to have gone with the
rest; but as the brute of a son of the Sheïkh Mahmúd had thrown him
down, being a very bad rider, and had broken both his knees, I would
not let the poor creature go. The Sheïkh Beïrúk says, he would
have kept up with the best of them; and I know that those of Hámed
Damání, of Hájí Ibráhím, of Sídí ’Alí, of Zeïn, and of
Habíb, can go for three days. I should certainly have liked mine to
be tried. But his state was not such as to warrant the experiment;
although the people said that he would go just as well with broken
knees as sound ones. No post arrived.
Wednesday, June 22.—Therm. 70°. Heavy and lowering; got cold
towards the afternoon. Feeling unwell kept the house. No post.
Thursday, June 23.—Therm. 80°. The Damánís returned late
yesterday, and without the horse, which they say is concealed
somewhere. It had not gone beyond the place they reached; they
supposed it had its shoes changed, and was taken to Sók Múlíd,
where a party was dispatched this morning. The lock of the door of the
Sheïkh’s house was picked by means of some hard paste of flour and
water. The locks are all of wood, and the fastening consists of three
or four small pegs of wood, which fall into corresponding holes. By
forcing in the paste, the pegs were thrown up, and the door opened
without any noise, and the horse stolen. The Sheïkh was more vexed at
its happening during my stay here, than at the loss of the animal. I
am out of health, spirits and temper. Kept my room the whole day.
Friday, June 24.—Therm. 80°. In the evening, after an uneasy
day, the post arrived, bringing a letter from Mr. Willshire, which
astonished me. I have been robbed right and left by the villain
Majíbí, who states that he paid 320 ducats for me in Sús, or I
should have been taken and sold; that Sheïkh ’Alí called me his
prize, and he would have 500 for me. This fellow is the prince of
scoundrels. The people from Taghakánth, for whom the Sheïkh had
written, arrived in the course of the day, and I hope to-morrow to
know what they mean to do.
Saturday, June 25.—Therm. 82°. Very hot and close; a melting day
before us. Had a long conference with the Damánís; but nothing
was said on the subject of my going. They made repeated attacks on
the creed of the Christians, and spoke of the impossibility of our
going to heaven without the aid of the prophet. I was strongly urged
to turn Mohammedan: they would give me camels, nákahs, slaves,
&c. I was at length obliged to silence them. After this came the
newspapers, out of which I made some extracts, which Abú read
to them in Arabic, and with which they were highly pleased. They
hoped the Sultán would persist in attacking the French: they said
that these districts could furnish, mount, and arm fifty thousand
men; but though they are fond of exaggeration, I think that twenty
thousand might be raised in this quarter. A man has come this day
to say, that he knows of two Christian slaves in the desert; they
are Spaniards. He wishes to know if I would buy them, or if the
consul at Suweïrah or Tangier would. After this, he asked me for
some medicines. I gave him a settler, by asking how he could come to
me a Christian, and ask for medicines, when he had taken these poor
Christians, and meant to sell them? Upon this, some words ensued;
to which the arrival of the Sheïkh put a stop. I told him to go to
Suweïrah, and asked how could he expect mercy, who shewed so little
to others? The heat very oppressive to-day. The Damánís were right:
the stolen horse did not go beyond the place they pointed out. They
have this day returned, having taken the thief, and his brother,
who had stolen three cows: they had ridden the horse to death. The
two brothers have made a pretty disclosure. They were sent by the
son of Sídí Hasan to murder Billah, a confidential servant of the
Sheïkh, who had left the service of Sídí Hasan, because the son
of the latter had violated the wife of Billah. If they could not
kill Billah, they were to seize and carry away his present wife,
who is a pretty woman; and, failing in that, they were to steal the
Sheïkh’s favourite horse, as a punishment for protecting Billah,
who, with his wife, escaped both the murder and abduction, and
the Sheïkh’s horse fell the sacrifice. For this pretty job the
fellows were to have about three shillings each. I hope the Sheikh
will shoot them. At length the Damánís have been to my rooms,
and told me, that if no káfilah is to go for some time, they will
proceed with me. I like them much; they are fine specimens of wild
men, but not savages. A large party of them came in the evening,
and staid till one A.M., and only left me to go and eat.
Saturday, June 26.—Therm. 82°. Symptoms of heat by the haze over
the mountains; spoke to the Sheïkh, and all appears to be settled,
but the main point is the money. If this is to be exorbitant, I
shall give up the thing at once. This question is to be arranged,
when Hájí Majíbí comes home. I fear I shall have a quarrel with
that fellow before I get off. The Sheïkh recommends the káfilah:
I am aware it would be the safer course, but I could not so well make
notes and observations, and should be bored to death for advice and
medicines during the whole road. If it goes soon, however, I shall
join it; if not, I shall proceed with my five or six people. Read
the prayers; most of the people here come to listen, although they
could not understand a word. The tribe of Ergebát[111] has sent a
deputation to the Sheïkh, and have this day been heard, and have
explained the cause of their attack upon the Taghakánths. The
Sheïkh decided in favour of the Ergebáts, and there is to be a
reconciliation and friendship. I must try to profit by this event, and
get past the Ergebáts before hostilities are renewed, which will be
soon the case. The heat has been oppressive to-day; I am rather glad
of it, as it helps to season me for the desert. Hope my party will
not come this evening. This is one of the great feasts amongst the
Muselmáns; but it is not kept here. The 12th of Safer is Mohammed’s
birth-day. Went to rest early, fearing my party would come.
Monday, June 27.—Therm. 86°. The heat has become very
oppressive. An express has arrived from Taghakánth, with a report
that the place has been attacked by the Ergebáts, who mustered nine
hundred men; while the Taghakánths, who were taken by surprise,
could bring together only three hundred to meet the enemy: these,
however, were sufficient to defeat their assailants, after killing
ninety of them, with a very trifling loss on their own part. This
is bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing
the district of the Ergebáts. The Damánís have set off in haste
for their place. Hájí Majíbí has returned; he is brought down
considerably, and came in a very humble manner to pay his respects:
he is a consummate scoundrel. Had a visit from Mas’úd, who
wished to give me a Tumbuktú quilt; but I can take no presents,
and he left me in dudgeon at my refusal. I dislike this man more
and more. Things are at last in a train; but I had a threatener this
morning, having nearly fallen two or three times, in consequence of
the great heat and excitement, and the immoderate use of tobacco. I
shall try to leave off the pipe, and begin reducing the quantity
of fluid. Very weak tea and water have been my only drink for more
than three months; and I must now leave off the tea. Attended the
unpacking of the ivory: some of the teeth are immense. Abú tells me,
that I shall see some as large rotting on dunghills; that the people
about Kong live entirely upon elephants, and are constantly employed
in hunting them. The small tusks are used for music; but from the
want of means of transport, the large ones are thrown away. Hámed
has just been here to take leave: he is a most grateful creature,
and promises that wherever I meet any people of his tribe, they will
respect Ján and Yaghá. He then said he had one more favour to ask:
I had cured him, and had given him too many things; but as he knew
I could do any thing, “I love,” said he, “the daughter of the
brother of my father; she is the prettiest woman in our tribe; I am
dying for her; but she does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh’s
son, and shall be the Sheïkh myself; give me such a charm, as shall
force her to love me.” It was in vain that I told him, I had no
love-charm. He said that I had given one to the son of the Sheïkh
of Dar’ah, and that his wife had come back to him. I had then to
make up a story that I must see the lady, and, as she is unmarried,
fold the charm, while she looked on. This he is convinced will prove
effectual; and when I get to Taghakánth I am to make him happy. I
don’t know what he has promised to do for me. My two guides remain
here to make the necessary arrangements about our start. I have been
asked, if I will fight, should we be attacked, and have had to give
a specimen of my ability to use a sword and pistols. My powder and
ball, and every thing else was approved of, and I am promised that
all will be well; but that I must make up my mind to some suffering;
that they will carry extra water for me, but one Samúm[112] may
drink it all up. The die is cast, and I must run the hazard.
Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first death
since I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had
he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was
astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two
sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am
sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During
the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.
Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills,
&c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming
in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try
what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day:
took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours;
went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.
Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning
another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has
likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the
attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the
Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these
fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned
by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh
dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought
most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire,
&c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s
letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till two A.M. writing.
Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and
now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was
intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They
want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much
wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant
sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give,
without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know
how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed
me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over
them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has
got abroad of my being one of the royal family of England; that I
have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me
pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much
on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.
Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have
in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity
of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills
to complete the number, where one would require three, and another
only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I
have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I
sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the
desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request,
and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having
to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.
Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as
I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under
an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large
sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He
said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars
to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that
he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not
expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from
the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back
again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent
for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to
Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the
prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.
Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received
a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and
the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very
acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots;
I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are
very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him,
he will make an oath AHAD .................. that he will conduct me
in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me
whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been
so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing
my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of
his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had
great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations
of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and
happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would
not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the
desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.
Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to
make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power
for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I
had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie
intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who
have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior,
is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An
Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking
wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing:
I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab
was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great
Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I
told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a
fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he
had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing,
where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the
story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man,
and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I
told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had
already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated,
that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night,
and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied
in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after counting
my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot:
he then examined the knee-pan and cried out _Wáhed aëdá_, ‘only
one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this,
as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes,
&c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked
for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again
to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good
deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen
mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two
hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that
has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries
people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of
Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also
that Lamdo Lillahi[113] stands on the river, whereas the map makes
it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen
years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he
knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His
mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up
with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.