morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for
the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley,
only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose
occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling
the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry
and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual
increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted,
together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers,
and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one
tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety
of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each
person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner
they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents
were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly,
and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any
thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to
blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very
anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here,
I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of
swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to
and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah[120]
taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over
a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose:
but matters are hard to arrange.
Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are
certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing
out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads;
none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik);
some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly
curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle
dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large
wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The
wind is high, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of
a return of the heat. At eleven A.M. it blew a perfect hurricane. The
Simúm[121] felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose
suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat
was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying
about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one
P.M. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh
says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not
having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This
is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper
explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every
thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill
of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making
a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms,
I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two P.M. the
hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that
made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred
and twenty-one degrees, and at three P.M. one hundred and twenty-six
degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one
degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a
thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the
Jew’s to-morrow with the Sheïkh. A great change has taken place:
I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined
to keep the vantage ground.
Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went
to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s,
Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior
kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh
carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his
kummiyah.[122] After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went
home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel,
who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from
the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s
wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is
much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi,
at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then
a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there
were only _Sepher Kodesh_.[123] Returned home, and found a great
change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive:
the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and
sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was
fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.
Friday, Aug. 19.—Therm. 89°. The heat suffocating: went out a
little to accustom myself to it. At two P.M. the thermometer was
at 110° in the shade. This is the second summer here: it lasts for
twenty or thirty days. All nature parched up. Kept to the house the
greater part of the day.
Saturday, Aug. 20.—Therm. 90°. There has been a difference of
twenty degrees between to-day and last Saturday, and of twenty-four
degrees between the 10th and 20th of this month. I am regularly
steaming. Am going to the Jew’s again: it is their Sabbath
feast. Their _olla podrida_ does not agree with me very well. It is
put into the oven on Friday just before sunset, and remains till it
is wanted, stewing from twelve to twenty hours in a river of oil. The
day was, however, a change from my imprisonment. The Rabbi read a
part of Genesis. Walked to the Millah, the heat excessive; returned
home, and had some pleasant talk with the Sheïkh: was right glad
to get away from the smell of the Jews, and from nose-blowing, &c.
Sunday, Aug. 21.—Therm. 88°. Day fine. The hot wind has
ceased. Read the prayers, and passed all day in the house with the
Greek Testament.
Monday, Aug. 22.—Therm. 76°. A great fall in the glass. Felt
very cold in the night; morning cloudy, with appearance of rain
in the west. Mohammed Serren brought one of his sahabi[124] for
me to prescribe something for him; the poor fellow was very ill,
and came with lots of commissions from others; but not being able
to explain himself very well, he mounted his horse, and went to
some tents in the neighbourhood, and brought me a louse, telling me
that the chief of the tribe, a great friend of his, had them all
over his body; and that as his skin bred them, he wished to know
how he was to get rid of them. He then detailed his own domestic
disease. He had the prettiest woman in the tribe for his wife; but
she did not like him. He therefore wanted me to give him a charm to
compel her to love him. Hearing a rattling of chains below, I went
out to inquire the cause of it, and asked if they were intended for
an elephant; but received for answer, that they were for the poor
devils who had stolen the Sheïkh’s horse: they are to be chained
up for God knows how long. The Arab returned for his medicines;
and when I was about to give him some directions about his diet,
he said it was of no use, for they had but two kinds of food, milk
and ’eïsh (barley-bread). There has been a great commotion amongst
the Jews. Poor Eïsh Ben Músa came crying to me, having heard that
the Sheïkh had made me promise to go and eat at Suleïmán’s,
who is a great rascal, and whom I dislike. The beast came, and
wanted to explain away his rascality. I find I cannot go there,
but fighting follows.
Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the
desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jews
are boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it
turned cold.
Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It
appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was
alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of
Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone
out to punish some Harámís[125] in that direction. We went out,
but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider
is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he
were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All
mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a
false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the
parties who started after P.M. are now returning. Weather much cooler.
Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived
at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give
me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have
had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.
Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten
degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing
news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like
a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen
days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with
persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack
intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors,
who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the
day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his
father arrives, we are to start.
Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the
Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a
war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner
at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.
Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night,
that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers,
and kept my room all the day.
Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels,
started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the
desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the
people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again
put off our excursion. Cold to-night.
Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during
the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the
war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same
kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill
note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their
appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.
Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied
by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled
very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In
about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having
passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till
twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that
they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs
were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable
of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and
herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W.,
and rode till four P.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring
of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among
the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was
distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape
Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad,
which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little
and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water
that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain
of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at seven
P.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked
up, and was near falling twice from his horse. After the tent was
pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an
adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver,
and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken
off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted
on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece
at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought,
and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some
camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.
Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal
to rain. Up at five A.M. to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a
part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay
their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly
annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night
was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their
light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances
of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start
till one P.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We
kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W.,
crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity
of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At
six P.M. we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are
here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and
goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and
the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night,
when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller,
who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham,
and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of
the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s
tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one
they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses
complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. He _improvised_
with great fluency.
Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during the
night. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At seven
A.M. we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to
drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people,
however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore
sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some
miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my
milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the
Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard
recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a
firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of
the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what
nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed
with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps,
&c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy
and cold towards the evening. We started at six P.M., and rode an
hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me,
although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch;
while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water
mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.
Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent
was 70° at eight A.M. We did not get off till nine A.M. Impossible
to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit
different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by
N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people
do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it
near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many
flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for
myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to
know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two
wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing,
and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry
bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to
travel without food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes
and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.
Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot
day. Up at five A.M. but did not start till ten, as people were
constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At
half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good
chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches
and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four
balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At
half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not
Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The
tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the
Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great,
and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea,
where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very
bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the
morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish;
the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to
drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing
the boar. The tents were wretched.
Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a
draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard;
then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited
two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on
the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes,
which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they
had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not
having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness
the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went
down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away,
and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to
the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow
water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
THE RIVER DRAHA.
_48 Miles W.S.W. of Wadnoon._]
Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some
of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the
N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at
half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then
due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and
serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My
horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water
since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to
get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself;
for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human
beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west,
crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a
belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.
Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to
return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and
some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and
Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the
most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of
the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas;
the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the
Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings,
the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding
with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some
difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually
brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.
Thursday, Sept. 8.—Therm. 62°. Off at half-past six. Rode very
fast till half-past one, when we halted at the Sheïkh’s garden. We
had crossed the Assaka, and came to the Syod, which is here only a
ditch. We then lighted a fire, and got some good tea made with fresh
water; there was plenty of figs to give a relish to the remainder
of the musty bread. I had now travelled hard for ten days, and had
eaten nothing but a small piece of fish, dry bread and camel’s
milk. I perfectly astonished these people, ............... but was
much benefitted and pleased by the trip. Got home at six P.M. when
I had coffee and a wash.
Here ends Mr. Davidson’s Journal, from which the notes have
been extracted; and the three following letters, addressed to
Mr. Willshire, will tell all that his friends have to communicate
up to the period of his lamented decease.
“Wad Nún, October 7th 1836.