still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange
creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is
convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give
him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her
love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I
gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an
explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some
figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants:
the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little
about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting:
here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all
places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there
are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here
by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house,
which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here
thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and
bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for
my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.
Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has
been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number
of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding
that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning
home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of
this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through
the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd
that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the
morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue,
as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through
the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something
in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I
was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to
stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows,
who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me
that many a hand was on the _kummiyah_.[103] So much for the great
Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The
Sók is considered a poor one.
The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of
its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here,
and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of
Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made
the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with
what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor
return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick
at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this
afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I
wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have
also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait
till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the
thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up,
and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous;
one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of
money from the gazing fools.
Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took
some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river,
where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which
I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading
five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing;
came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were
looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and
five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to
the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun
was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°,
or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should
have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and
bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in
a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and
bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so
bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in
a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make
an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved
myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.
Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of
rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor
Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad
temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system
again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now
crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a
failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the
tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan,
the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came
with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh,
complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to
go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could
alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception
the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without
government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on
matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may,
and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons
not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints:
the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door
against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú
or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and
feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying
matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I
grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and
the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the
desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú
is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they
are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.
Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits,
and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In
consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the
fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked
myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep,
and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that
the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied,
and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from
Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another
begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún:
their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends,
and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would
give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.
Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent
wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which
the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah,
which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank
God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was
brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin,
and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful
pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe
me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had
led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the
King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here,
as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of
the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The
Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has
raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole
days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool,
that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised
that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game
to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair;
and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.
Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is
quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with
the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the
journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he
shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant,
I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first
to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was
killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of
the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took
a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was
gone for the night.
Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards
noon. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer in the sun stood at
120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been
brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look
at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all
my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in
her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They
would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever
seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better,
although there is but little chance of my proceeding, as the people
of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát:
but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope
he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping
me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis
Præstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
This is nearly my case.
Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to
the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the
name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who
accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at
two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this,
there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The
town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which
will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come
here. No account of the káfilah.
Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°. _Dies non_. I was hardly in bed,
when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they
were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed,
when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had
knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee,
too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point
out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not
be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw,
and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of
the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor
little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked
of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine
him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge
from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.
Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at two P.M. when
it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had;
for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near
so great a degree of heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad:
it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast
Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and
displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he
could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and
myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident,
and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b
El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very
well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.
Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards
cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture
to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased
excessively. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer was 95° under the
corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering
much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to
arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk
to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce
to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be
blockaded.
Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this
morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How
I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat
is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is
warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on
whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some
definite arrangement.
Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot
to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived
from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through
the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot
here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground
with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine
voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit
me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As
I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if
I can get some sleep, despite the great noise. These people know
nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they
only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in
one light and one dark, as they call the day.
Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so
baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel
cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter
and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a
change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.
Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the
lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of
the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází,
and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back
of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels,
mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with
a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the
first wants something to make every one love her; the second that
her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken
ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not
yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some
arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.
Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened
by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks,
except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled
far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take
her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the
place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have
done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last
days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when
they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may
get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all
our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some
good news from Senegal.
Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole
day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we
had the moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe
me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last
night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and
that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and
legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations
to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to
Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.
Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished
poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our
cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a
sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves
in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied
up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had
received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped
and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after
hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought
in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand
it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings
of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick
of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At
night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should
be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been
under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food,
when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women
were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor
blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.
Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and
this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered
from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people
have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah,
as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject;
although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which
would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be
nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at Gibraltar has done all
the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah,
which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest
have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have
arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so
complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and
their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue
seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large
quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the
khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But
never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had
seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia
Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in
Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in
appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large
quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth
on each camel ............ looking like small canoes; many loads of
reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed
in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung
like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar[105] dates and
a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have
each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were
unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where
they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú,
and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay
down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves,
and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty
to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer
came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command,
said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a
Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you
offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician;
shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my
glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols,
&c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger,
dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them:
they became alarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them
snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I
had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and
would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí
Mohammed,’[106] and go any where. This was the general wind up,
and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my
rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.