off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago,
which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said
about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had
promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower;
I was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road;
he was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to
hold him on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí
Ibráhím, was seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to
the governor’s, and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him
obtain some rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in
a sad state, nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened,
as they call it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out:
he had been fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its
powers. I gave him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence,
and made him a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it,
than he put the bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling
the crowd, that had now collected to see the holy man, that he had
got at last what his stomach was craving for. I promised to make
him a breakfast on the morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my
treatment of him, I got no little credit; for which I can obtain some
help from him in return. Am heartily sick of this place; although
it has lost all its commerce, it has still a considerable revenue;
it may be considered a frontier town, and is capable of being well
defended; it receives one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass
through it, two ounces for each camel, half a peseta for each mule,
and two blanquillas for each donkey; and as it is in the great road
to Sús and Súdán, these imposts produce a large income.
Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient,
when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the
governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break
of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched
Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday,
which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as
I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking
out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors:
poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there
is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian
church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut
up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look
into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in
the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing
works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules:
took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has
an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his
own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up
every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be
some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped,
as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no
chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start,
if possible, to-morrow.
Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not
get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the
governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party;
in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of
the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after
which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I
said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on,
or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride
of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes
with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed,
in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought
best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a
fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded
S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí
(Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could
bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect
me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream,
although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before
six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man:
he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is
fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that
our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the
party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We
commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then
tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some
account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel
generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose:
the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.
Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at
six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I
had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man
was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting
me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been
discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his
people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah,
a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along
its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and
crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of
’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying
moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten
minutes, the muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí
Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party
took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at
Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the
sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be
very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea
and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him,
and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view
I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen
came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight:
afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night,
prevented me from sleeping.
Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After
eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring;
they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot
where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh
’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that
I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the
residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me
any where through Sús. I bought him for [Blank] dollars. At this
point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely
cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills,
which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are
now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold,
most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not
over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly,
is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great
saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered
up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard
climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk
the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached
the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a
room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My
grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts
laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes
and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey,
and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only
food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The
Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse
kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking
till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint,
I was put into the garden, until one was prepared. This is the
district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.
Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I
had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after
travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to
eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then
taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This,
I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in
proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as
well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these
beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest
of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other
traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will
neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score
of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without
the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I
received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive
to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.
Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin
in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for
two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town
in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and
entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with
arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small
clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese
Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is
distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt
was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the
spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine
line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh
waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past
five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much
pleased with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to
see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for
Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three
double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened
in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of
pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to
Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me,
he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has
a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present,
and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this
is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see
slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item
of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses
forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand
camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine
young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.
Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour
milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with
the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking
and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write
my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very
dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are
beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have
come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them
a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s
family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the
afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s
tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples:
saw likewise several _heïries_, both of dromedaries and horses. As
the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked
like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The
view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and
plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine
wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day,
but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the
sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall
have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad
to shorten the time.
Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding
a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the
kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased,
so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really
ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them
any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away,
and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any
in Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece
by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught,
and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep,
I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the
prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very
well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed
with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man,
who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great
doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty
persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.
Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through
the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients,
some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely
looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went
to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars
are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of
being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the
power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one:
went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They
will not give me a moment’s rest.
Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the
sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from
Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for
one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five
hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire,
to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh
had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised
us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and
would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the
evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties;
that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was
not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was
sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
_Style of Buildings of Wadnoon._]
Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot
talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did
not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little
upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat
aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself,
and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give
him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce
me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d
first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout,
who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms
with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey
will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more
kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should
do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait
to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race;
they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark;
they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and
with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal;
they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in
better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are
fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth
day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal,
the black mountain; Sók Assa is distant only one day’s journey;
Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another
twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to
Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known,
twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans
frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah,
they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen,
&c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines
altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The
weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.
Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the
night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is
perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals
a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise
and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their
walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look
upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the
one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding
inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in
food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the
other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah
is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán
in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture
out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to
two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are
the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments
in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and
do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants,
or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There
are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most
beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting
each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that
time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they
collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascally
by Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for
water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people
conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain,
to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here,
because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be
left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of
what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The
weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have
had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for
at least another month, and must bear it.
Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all
are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but
thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs,
and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his
fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As
soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of
you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly
a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in
managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we
are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all
the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of
large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the
south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible
to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five
or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a
constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which
is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s[94]
communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95]
and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he
would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by
these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole
distance be performed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade
be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in
fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for
the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum,
almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce
of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a
lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.
Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now
thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next
four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left
only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I
told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised
to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party
perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried
up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I
have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched
to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by
the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds
that I am too _canine_ for him to be in the same apartment, and
thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this
beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred,
with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four
hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah,
where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband
is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than
in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20_s._
to 30_s._; heifers, 15_s._; a sheep, 2_s._ to 4_s._; fowls vary:
I paid ½_d._ each; bread, ¼_d._ per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas;
barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars;
a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.
Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the
cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through
Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense
this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkh
is still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that
all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the
trade through Mogadór.
Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming
warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel
the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to
eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful
to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has
broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall
have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away
all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent,
as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate
it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold
felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is
their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.
Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel
the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just
arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war
between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward
for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the
immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.
Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day,
did not go out.