busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the
history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his
fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún:
employed in preparations for starting.
Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards
mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten
dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for
mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation
about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where
it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned
merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries
are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that
purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A
human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the
whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could
cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me
to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for
the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I
made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the
three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They
are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from
the _M’hor_, which is a kind of antelope, and are called _selsí_
in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases
of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the
three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of
fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application:
it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.
Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about
to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not
rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.
Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great
day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north;
the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope
to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day,
but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to
two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals,
one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to
fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The
rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is
brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.
Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could
without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering
too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got
every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel
has arrived from Gibraltar.
Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and
took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from
Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the
Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients;
glad to get off.
Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements
for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and
was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other
friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road
was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted
at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country
now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan:
the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay;
my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the
following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys
came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate
نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين
nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from
God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful
in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people;
the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a
mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past
six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and
liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a
draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.
Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till
eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has
already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s
distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited
one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly
impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand
in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to
bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks
have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each
other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground
was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole
day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock:
the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt;
for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only
person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood
at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The
place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer
day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben,
(sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.
Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has
done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of
Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in
vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside
of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The
whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the
almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high,
and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it
reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk
mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to
get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of
our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode
his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at
Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak,
where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take
care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.
Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s
sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the
road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea,
following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we
rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata
here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone
of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous
caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing
station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish
were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered
with the _euphorbium_, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great
quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise
with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about
two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet
deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a
large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In
the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving
coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to
about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some
of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few
specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met
with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the
sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of
Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however,
we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent:
and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to
sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.
Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed
the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning
service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride
of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength,
and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted
to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive:
we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and
washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely
a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the
wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews
and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls
are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below
it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very
fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was
particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two
hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was
fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.
Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the
grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the
end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves,
that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing
each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon
as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor
do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside
of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83]
or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately
before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive,
the year will be an abundant one, and _vice versa_. Walked out to
Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought
letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and
one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go
to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me
to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three
bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins,
which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have
sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go
or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for
which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely
acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with
the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of
Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested
me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my
friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me
to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle
of Agadír, Mashallah!
Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din
of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others
placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the
reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who
were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me
to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance
of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night,
however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started
for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four
soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On
our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those
we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take
a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are
cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At
Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted
to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant,
to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere:
formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay
here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be
had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the
road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight
for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil,
almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could
take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c.,
for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my
soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to
hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He
then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began
tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account
in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some
benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time,
but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold
of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to
destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits
of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí
Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been
firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to
say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself,
although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after
which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins,
and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives
work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly
disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor
upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.
Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of
rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second
courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg,
his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence
(Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of
Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me,
six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part
of the people of Agadír.
Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered
the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till
midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were
covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this
morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s
face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the
one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade,
out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze,
(from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side
of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached
133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold
coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young
pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while
he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found
three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones,
and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do
find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of
uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86]
I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been
so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú. At
nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards
the river. Went to rest early.
Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read
the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the
place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the
sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which
contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and
sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind
E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is
said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and
his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.
Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day
I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained
so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the
house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to
start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of
the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and
beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot
so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly
oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are
repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force,
and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend,
with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a _dies non_.
Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery
during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and
there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely
broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between
the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10
within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning
to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought
no news.
Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to
rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the
water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed
this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.
Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite
darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all
our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the
feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a
deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by
the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black
woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise
of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.
Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A
_dies non_.
Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news:
my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were very
bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a
market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired
of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on
or not.
Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so
chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived;
all is right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour,
dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready
to start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes
to-day: it has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.
Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale
from the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The
mountains can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.
Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the
service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very
visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind,
accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.
Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E. Disappointed
again, as Hájí Majíibí[89] will not start for some days. Our
horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may be
fresh for the start (‘_Inshállah_’) on Saturday next.
Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N. with
weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides,
I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated
about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell
to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave
Mogadór to-day.
Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A _dies non_. Felt very poorly:
had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.
Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the
horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are
rather too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came,
but brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I
am very uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The
Hájí is thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for
one moment what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here,
he would hurry on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot
bite, and therefore I had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round
to the E. The thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went
to my carpet rather sulky.
Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the
Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my present
to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh
Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for
me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very
desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any
real grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one
of the severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the
very fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from
the N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of
weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great
suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who
has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him
on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however,
do me some good. The people of his tribe offered to bring him here,
but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their
good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy:
no appetite, and out of spirits.