although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules,
with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without
stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the
Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and
handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does
not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is
too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good
deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends:
I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from
the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way
out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been
sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a
little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement
of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for
my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made
a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a
long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife,
but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according
to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six
o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing
the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did
not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some
bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and
gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared,
and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s,
and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah,
where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful
spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present
of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in
the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last,
I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers,
and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was
over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After
crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we
came to a _douar_, where we slept, having received a good monah. The
situation was splendid.
Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd
Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He
received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one
man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and
then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived
at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied
for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins:
they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths,
and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five
walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong
position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening
to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are
a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality,
or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music,
and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought
here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh
Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have
each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco
to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use,
as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The
elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to
make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.
Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer
the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts
about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very
rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews
here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I
was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them
the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true,
and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when
they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found
probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells,
and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of
Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined
in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of
the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to
prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and
went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have
now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I
wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the
names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah,
as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66]
the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is
in reality _tras_ (head), and _ermoot_ (valley). At noon we started,
accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful
olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people,
and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had
been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it:
I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in
high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most
beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We
were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather
than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give
me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into
the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with
wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s
mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted
me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river,
where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot,
who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on
descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at,
and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones
on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by
the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the
level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly
his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it
would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his
gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I
had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then
commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my
face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the
road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain
called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the
mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like
an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had
more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk,
but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some
Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who
escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation
has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some
books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them,
nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the
burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can
manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the
mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco,
where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar,
from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is,
however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place
whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families,
and some of the _douars_[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every
Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain
there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The
annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have
to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name:
they are the most intelligent I have met with.
Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as
we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had
milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some
specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where
there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We
arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with
twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve
miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and
Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The
Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed
some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river,
which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands:
I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite,
generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The
Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more
than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.
Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought
to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque:
the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs,
and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get
off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing
our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted
to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful,
but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass
any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along
the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I
picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river
Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján,
where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers,
and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach
Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed
Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This,
which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any
we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must
remain here the whole of to-morrow.
Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the
night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with
the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and
W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found
here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that
at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country,
which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in
his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents,
and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest,
there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in
the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut
off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which
I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had
finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the
ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the
Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and
they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must,
however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is
dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my
patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The
Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards;
the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was
struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the
quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth
and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was
impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and
good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well
dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.
Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on
the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets,
plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present
a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting,
which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women,
who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was
beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for
two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at
one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a
quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S.,
and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd
Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál,
on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house
than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy
years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing
what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having
heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem,
consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous,
is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with
the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet,
that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own
fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also;
we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now
promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.
Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but
we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride
yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which
forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle
herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75]
Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then
W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several _douars_. The people here have
evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole
family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent
to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has
brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated:
we here met with the _Klágh_ again. At one, P.M., we came to a large
and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take
some refreshment; we then passed three large _douars_. At Auled es
Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for
more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came
to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During
the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there
were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here
for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst
which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint,
the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host,
nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted
to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently,
as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers,
but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I
had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by
some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging
to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.
Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had
fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to
vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many
villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the
argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy,
but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through
a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which
we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the
great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood,
which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most
extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was
visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight
P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was
with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made
myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till
midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.
Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep:
the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and
removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw
the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the
brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that
I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the
Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still,
I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my
chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.
Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and
much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and
in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by
Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco:
there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it
has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.
Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read
prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil:
I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I
could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired
to rest early, not very well.
Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at
ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°.,
the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of
Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I
had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians
have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture);
it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the
auction-mart: the night cold.
Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.;
the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients,
but not being very well, retired early to rest.
Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with
damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father;
the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with
the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary
conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked
round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries
mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in
the empire.
Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board
the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a
considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all
in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their
assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison,
together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the
town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews,
and is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called
at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire
thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better
housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women:
many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak
English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering
from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers,
whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him
Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every
article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army
to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound;
bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs,
three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for
the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just
double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain,
and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will
reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.
Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of
patients. Felt rather poorly.
Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’
town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself,
and had to lie by.
Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill;
the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept
here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.
Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea,
and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part
of the day.
Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in
torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote
to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at
the end of the week.
Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the
people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not
very well: began with my vocabulary.
Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to
Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting
the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to
examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of
(an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they
who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are
destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which
the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less
fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect
are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún;
it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú,
if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my
round of patients.
Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to
the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many
applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no
opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory
to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany
me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters,
and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he
finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get
rid of him entirely.
Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see
Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are
very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.
Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the
prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who
lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the
punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about
me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part
would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several
Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are
at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.
Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to
dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of
the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home,
and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk
about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the
_bocca larga_. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind:
it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to
get off.
Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the
night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú;
Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah;
all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.
Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in
the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving
next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with
my patients, all of whom are doing well.