day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw
physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the
Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben
Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the
Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty
people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw
much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof
and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw
had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some
bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms;
but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and
hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries
as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could
he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained
to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other
parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a
tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see
him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting
on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.
Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change
of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of
the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him,
and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any
thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán,
to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two
great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I
could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very
finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I
fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who
came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in
the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He
had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and
mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to
go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I
preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make
me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most
useful in my journey. I then offered to have the _Physician’s Vade
Mecum_ translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco,
and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the
Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every
where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to
England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was
to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already
elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then
went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some
clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist,
and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked
much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.
Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients,
all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to
be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to
take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben
Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister;
neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety
on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my
friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of
the Káïd of Mogador.
Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I
have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine
all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula,
Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of
all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and
was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred
of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited
Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in
with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on
my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.
Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah,
and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three
persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message
from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to
the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through
court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was
seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully,
I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making
some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he
then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I
was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified
with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying
dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from
the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the
gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present
to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick
upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace
to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves
were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order
for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that
if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any
one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have
one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.
Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting
better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to
make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left
my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent
home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí:
prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me
mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in
the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same
disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought
in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph
would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading
the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me
honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The
Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and
the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up
a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his
tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my
knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as
this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me,
which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me,
and the noise greater than on any other day.
Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the
Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take
me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on
the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions
about his diet. He would make me accept a _haik_ and a _sulham_,
the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then
went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence
to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen
three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where
I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets,
which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle,
and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse,
who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon
in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and
shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the
palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old
man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second
eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot:
it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [Blank][52] I
have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it;
but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly
dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53] How I contrive to stand all
this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.
Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the
gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made
in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of
offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for
the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple
one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely
in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the
medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such
a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would
have me take a _sulham_ from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of
the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however,
I could do nothing but give him some _pezetas_. Went to the palace,
where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was
sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe
without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at
a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked
to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I
returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have
been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of
the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have
been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.
Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so
well. _Pilula et haustus_.[54] Returned home, and found a greater
crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was
repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier
was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women
is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly
delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband;
it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if
she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies
them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes,
although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to
write my letters, which is the more provoking, as couriers are going
daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find,
is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I
have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic
by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take
an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it _ü_ ϋ 99̂9 [Symbol] oo
8999 ξχρσγ[55] _ta a_; put the egg in the moon and dew; break
it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die;
if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the
ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously,
nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.
Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed,
than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered
with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary
complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions;
returned home, too ill to sleep.
Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj
getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the
Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have
sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.
Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better,
that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being
able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all
that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint,
and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw
two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years
old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.
Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen
brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the
palace. Saw the _Bó-áb_, who will die; had some differences with
the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí,
who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come,
I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired
early to rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring
to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.
Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few
patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received
the two decalogues[56] for the head and arm; three turns above the
elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten
commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes
of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received
letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].
Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley
’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to
the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the
two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding
aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin
lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine
old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a
carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last
remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and
order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On
my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there
was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate
a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags;
but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered
with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was
very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for
some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them
directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said,
“If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as
we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle,
and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup
was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was
the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a
child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of
some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene;
the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had
a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward
you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went
in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the
bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised
chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled
with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels
and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was
beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and
her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about
an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house,
preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting;
all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this
way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed
her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing
a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it;
the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine,
he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom;
he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on
the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a
psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where
she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month;
and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.
Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well;
and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or
Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there
some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who
was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the
palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the
bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were
about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59]
has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a
strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a
dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded
with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations
for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a _coup de
soleil_: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw
the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure,
as I hope to be off next week.
Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven
A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive;
and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned
Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk
to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found
her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness
such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be
soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day
was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the
horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they
can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days;
I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large
jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey,
with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The
groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned
home, and found the Káïd’s _táleb_[61] waiting for me. I am
heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail,
while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief
eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself:
but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I
could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he
has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a
doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be
able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy:
it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he
takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to
see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this
country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me,
under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask
permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the
first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that
medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even
upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.
Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday,
I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it
stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°;
at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose
to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose
again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached
102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to
69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°,
during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that
five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and
one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called
her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put
up his hand, and pronounced the word _kamsa_ (five), which prevents
the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a
hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I
saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me
to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong;
and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and
yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming
home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and
means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his
hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much
worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw
turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home
very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with
the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say
that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these
people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only
a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system
of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But
as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of
presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.
Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M.,
both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°.
91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace
and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí,
and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I
am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take
others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled
him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has
fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells
himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it
him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He
has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I
may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day:
there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is
sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious
specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.
Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so
great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had
been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received
a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the
terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain
range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined
early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing
is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to
Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. _Inshá-llah_.
Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to
60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room:
refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found
it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess,
she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it
was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and
Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they
say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish
patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not;
there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find
that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to
Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived
from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently
rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm
was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.