off before the Mazazan[42] party and the governor, but failed to do
so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to
see why we were not _en route_. We found him on a hill that overlooks
Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having
gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very
rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road
there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with
people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their
scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys,
with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road;
a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We
reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the
Sheïkh and some of his people from the _dawár_, at which we are to
stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent,
with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with
four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was
dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to
three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the
governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them
off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the
_monnah_ and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself,
and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th
chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from
two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.
Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but
failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three
hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of
great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated
for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here
than in any other part of the empire. At 10 A.M. we saw Jebel Khadr,
rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few
minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring
of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau,
from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with
snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer,
who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great
fear lest the tent should be carried away. The _monnah_ was very
late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the
people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of the
_dawár_. The weather cold.
Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by
patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep
them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be
believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while
I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense
plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went
on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor
came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted,
and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town;
here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.;
thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then the _monnah_. I
was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients;
amongst them the governor, who came early.
Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with
the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two
soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to
learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get
off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To
prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them;
found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I
have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where
I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which
the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We
reached Suwaïníyah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before
us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. We pitched our
tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at
about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain
as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers;
there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt
a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down
my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although
not sleepy.
Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At
half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I
had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste,
and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run
between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Abú came to
me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always
put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold
watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in
whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the
loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I
should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules,
and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people
assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my
káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another
káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my
suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up
came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in
it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked,
with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop,
as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by
bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had
overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I
then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine
mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As
soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his
troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by
el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to
custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím
in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. They
passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad,
who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the
watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point
out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not
the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he
would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person
who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me
to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch,
and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never
saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen
Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under
his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy
likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el
Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced
me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them
let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood
of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared
nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen
other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived
at the gardens of Múláï Músá at four P.M., after making the
circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I
was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came
first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me,
and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh
of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what
I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s
expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to
buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were
empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers,
and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid
down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep,
sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.
Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá,
situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco,
but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large
audience-chamber has two hutches in it, like the _cabouses_ of a
Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however,
taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a
view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It
is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly
ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43] the Moorish arch,
and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied
by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is
about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On
each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds
and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the
sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind of _fanál_,[44]
from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown
with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of
orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank
well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through
the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered
with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates,
strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day
fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with
the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from
a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the
Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling
present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied,
although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to
Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is
to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax,
which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means
of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the
children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients;
among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút,
the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder
in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.
Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the
báshá of the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the
visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a
drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy
to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned
home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This
is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when
free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold
food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and
interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only
Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners,
who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in
the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace,
mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and
my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat
these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about
the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take
some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door,
which he requests may be securely fastened.
Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the
minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory,
with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see
my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was
brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened
to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and,
after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed
to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and,
after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the
minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when,
wrapped up in my _zulham_, I was led through the crowded bázár,
and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way,
came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then
went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed
and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped
out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged,
and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to
whom the horses belonged were then let out, and the minister came
into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben
Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress;
his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me,
he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then
ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed
his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour,
and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on
all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He
referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other
countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked
me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great
care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the
females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away,
and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an
hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that
the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow,
and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I
was to be in readiness for the guard at seven A.M.
Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was
up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine,
when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by
an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me
to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready,
and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through
heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the
horse on which my _hader_[46] rides is the most splendid animal
I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after
court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at
a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the
minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces,
and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which
were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery,
where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages,
whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several
kiosks, very beautifully painted, and afterwards the garden of[47]
[Blank]: from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and
then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route
lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the
ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out
at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then
proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48] extending above half a
mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of
a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the
palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my
patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones,
ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi
(the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old
fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a
quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names
and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me
all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great
deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I
told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however,
that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely
for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened
at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I
am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not
poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon
me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being
duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I
cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the
Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in
the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.
Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually
besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of
the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The
son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all
these I was detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I
find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am
in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The
diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility;
and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I
must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening
there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is
visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home
to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where
I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow
I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.
Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I
am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as
it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the
morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients,
whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad
cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received
presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the
Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one
of its grand market-days.
Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during
the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with
patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden
in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór,
where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the
garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb,
the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï
Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to
take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was
entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I
had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden,
and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I
told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt,
at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would
not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain
the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I
was shewn the ladies of all colours and ages, who were more pleased
with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when
I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of
the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In
the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the
city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when
and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me,
to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the
Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest,
quite done up, and unable to write any letters.
Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid
Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the
matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his
body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of
health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present
of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went
to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return
home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated
I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.
Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but
found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged
to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the
Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had
a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second
person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help
without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a
fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food
for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four
hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there
for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On
my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí,
where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical
points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out
the Moorish doctor, whose _materia medica_ was a certificate,[49]
that Abú, had he been quick, might have copied out; but he has
become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour
to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac
patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away,
if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar)
to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission
to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route;
but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.
Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of
number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively
engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was
obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a
very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán
would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine _gratis_. The
people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited
my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear
I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for
the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home;
but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister,
who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to
the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work
to do to-morrow.
Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients;
kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had
a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law,
and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up
all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.