Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me
about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode
to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however,
determined to enforce my right. This little _fracas_ has done some
good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine
country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped
at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through
which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe
of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are
principally black. Our _monnah_ came late, and by driblets. Six
black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the _bishnah_,
which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was
covered with large quantities of _el kelakh_, a plant resembling
fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came
upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with
immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving
character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time,
we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley,
and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.
Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to
freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice
has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but
did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was
very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we
came to four fine _kubbahs_, buried almost in the sand. They are
called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side
is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are
two more _kubbahs_. We got well across the ford; but our baggage
mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and
we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses
to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head:
on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn
the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down,
and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our
black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our
_monnah_, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point
being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There
then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the
mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe,
Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.
Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most
beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten
ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year
well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a
remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our _monnah_ had been small;
but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at
half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way
to Mehedíyah. We bought some _shibbel_, which we saw caught. It is
a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We
likewise saw here the _bishnah_ seed, of which the bread of the
country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a
tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We
were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah,
who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful
view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The
place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its
former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The
káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton
and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as
the other refused the _monnah_ for the soldiers and muleteers, I
would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear
that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this
I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The
káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no
little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand
made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited
the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all
this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31]
There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without
food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.
Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd
still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot
soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was
most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On
a circular hill there was a _kubbah_; and on each side the sloping
hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very
picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard
of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the
Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from
the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage
to come up. We passed outside the walls of Sallee, a fine large place,
once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are
still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river
which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M.,
with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here
again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We
found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us,
and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.
Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our
window beautiful. We went to the _sók_,[33] where we saw the
finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two
_improvisatori_ from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the
subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were
purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They
began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the
sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed
his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of
expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good
and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three
or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a
powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the
feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and
after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians,
the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the
mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our
purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we
found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people
better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were
many fine mosques, and numerous _kubbah_. We proceeded then to the
governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We
told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was
at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would
not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday;
as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be
pleased with the city; that he would then collect from four to five
hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked
to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We
then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon
and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We
now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier
on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the
house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain
the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to
see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful
women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the
walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read
the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious
questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a
small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients
with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay
to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats,
paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man,
a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.
Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to
Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place,
although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced
inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of
the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long
consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I
went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal
prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and
to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements
for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their
behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better
served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who
are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé
Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal
lots of fun. The _monnah_ was sent as usual; sheep, fowls, beef,
eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired
of this, as I find that the _monnah_ is an inducement to spin out
the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room
is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all
my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is
suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some
disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my
hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s
countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The
people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow;
but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a
saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.
Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the
arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not
get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay,
Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the
káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s;
one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty
face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We
met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the
grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where
about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through
which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish
dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye
of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line,
the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which
we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the
wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct,
till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed
the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of
a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends
took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds,
one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and
the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this
portion of my journey under the most favourable circumstances. The
whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to
attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops
of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow,
is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive
position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a
signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion
we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort
necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner
was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been
seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of
his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from
the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns
for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene,
and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the
midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I
should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel,
to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback,
followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even
I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in
company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was
now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A
little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of
which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan
going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to
the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying,
and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by
saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort,
as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private
directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off,
when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present,
just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave them two dollars;
but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his
troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then
crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and
beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed,
who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the
Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a
toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here
a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the
troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay
along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar,
of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty
picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the
káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s
black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with
the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan
were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a
leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It
was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the
feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A _monnah_ was brought,
with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating
that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day
in which I felt somewhat lonely.
Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many
traces of the wild boar. The road was covered with _durú_, which has
replaced the _kelakh_, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We
were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain,
which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and
through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through
the ruins of Mansoríyah[38] and the town of Feḍáh, where a road
turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá
(the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the
recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up,
than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike
the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing
to the unsafe state of the country. He pointed out a spot opposite
the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39] the son of the Emperor of Morocco,
is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard
was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and our _monnah_
was extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for
the wetting.
Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this
ruin of a town, and part of our _monnah_, which the soldiers had
sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven
A.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of
ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest of
_durú_; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water,
full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood,
but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our
quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As
we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep
Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some
soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious
lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a
peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to
the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another
tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell
where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and
mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard
all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment
was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families
are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.
Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and
the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at
two A.M. found its way through the tents. My misery commenced
at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my
_zulham_ and carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark
to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that
of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricane came on from the sea,
which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under
the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven
A.M. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and
a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There
were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At
half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived
at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was
running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It
was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds with _shibbel_. After
some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed
on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the
governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode
round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the
dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the
immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are
driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean
stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out
of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated
that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I
expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp
outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called
for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor,
to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to
the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a
great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his
cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense _monnah_
of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The
surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done
for Abú exceeds all conception.[40] The governor wishes me to remain
here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to
Morocco. We are all knocked up, and I must therefore consent. The tent
is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.
Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a
wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every
sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the
governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the
city. Here is the _kubbah_ or záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï
Abú Shu’eïb.[41] The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four
Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are
not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off
their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss
the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us
in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat,
I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did
so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and
leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very
ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine,
but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him,
and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing
[for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens
are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended
on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two
hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had
prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a
visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with
one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun
stood at 70°, and at one P.M. touched upon 80°. The governor has
sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the
four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the
governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman
on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the
Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small
sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the
country: this he sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán
Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No
sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman
governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a
great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór,
possessing the sacred _fauxbourg_ with the tombs of Múléï Bú
Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs,
&c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he
came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates;
but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm
of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I
would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those
who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards:
to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients
then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next
besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest
of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose
music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór,
I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days;
but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one
can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be
added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together,
exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of
Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside
the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd
of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar,
and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and
soldiers said would be deducted from their _monnah_. Upon this there
arose a good deal of contention. As the _monnah_ was for myself alone,
I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim
the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a
great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning,
which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about
the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the
dogs, that are more fierce and numerous here than in any other place,
I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not
like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.