=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
VIEW OF WADNOON.
_From the roof of Sheik Beyrook’s House_]
=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA,=
BY THE LATE
=JOHN DAVIDSON, F.R.S. F.S.A., &c.=
* * * * *
PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY.
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED BY J. L. COX AND SONS, 75, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS.
* * * * *
1839.
ADVERTISEMENT.
* * * * *
To gratify the earnest desire expressed by the Friends of the late
Mr. DAVIDSON to possess some memorial of him, his Brother has been
induced to print, for private distribution merely, the following pages,
drawn up from his MS. Journal.
It will be seen that they are only rough and brief notes penned at
the moment, and under circumstances the most trying to an active mind,
and with a presentiment of failure, which has been too truly realized.
For the generally correct manner in which the names of persons and
places are here given, and which in the MS. were decyphered with
difficulty, Mr. Davidson’s Brother has to offer his best thanks to the
Rev. G. Renouard and Capt. Washington, of the Royal Geographical
Society of London.
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
Page
Mr. Davidson’s Notes, kept in the form of a Journal 1
Loose Memoranda found amongst Mr. Davidson’s Papers 165
Letters from Captain Washington to Mr. Davidson 168
Mr. Davidson’s Replies to Queries 175
Extracts from Mr. Davidson’s Letters 176
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
Extracts from the Correspondence of Mr. Davidson, during
his Residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further
progress in the Desert 181
Account of Mr. Davidson’s Death, extracted from the Journal
of the Royal Geographical Society 202
History of Abou, extracted from the Journal of the Royal
Geographical Society 208
Mr. Hay’s Letter, referred to in the Notes, and
Reply thereto 215
=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=
* * * * *
On Saturday, August 29, 1835, we left London by the mail, and arrived
the morning following at Exeter, where we went to the cathedral,
which Abou called one of the bishops’ churches. We proceeded the
same evening to Falmouth, which we reached on Monday 31st. During the
journey, Abou’s remarks were highly creditable to him; he expressed
himself quite astonished at the rate of travelling, which he had
ascertained by comparing the mile-stones we had passed with the time,
as indicated by a watch; nor was he less struck with the quickness
of changing horses, the punctuality in the arrival of the mail, and
the manner in which one bag is delivered, and another received, while
the coach is going on. In the whole country, he said very prettily,
no place for more than a mile could be seen without a _settlement_;
all is productive: no misery. He wound up his reflections with the
words,—‘Good king! good people!—African people all blind:
not know their own good, else they would ask Englishmen to come and
teach them.’
On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the
officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise,
and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who
was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by
a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.
On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the _Sarah Nigritia_, and
got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell,
which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and
myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during
the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to
rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater
difficulties present themselves on land.
On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the
shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and
on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the
morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at
half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came
off to give us _pratique_ I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good
breakfast at the _Posada Inglaterra_, I proceeded to the Franciscan
convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a
very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best
taste of architecture. I returned to an _omelette_ and a segar,
and water and _rien de plus_; strolled afterwards through the town,
celebrated alike for _mostachas_ and _mantillas_, for playful fans,
bronze faces, and pretty feet.
At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville
there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself
is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous
revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province
not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one
another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.
At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that
a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be
too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after
crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.
Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All
things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some
trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are
all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too,
for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our
party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined
to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a
way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of
Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.
Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller
early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them,
they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit
from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made
the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all
the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had
gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I
hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What
a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his
Majesty’s _hakeem_ (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit:
he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed
during the interview were of an official and confidential nature,
I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect
much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There
is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I
shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from
Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s,
whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.
The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels
of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After
dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue
lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural
grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am
delighted with it.
Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the
psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference
with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution,
of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up,
and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at
Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks,
Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way,
and each in a different one.
Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite
distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the
convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended
my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2]
Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain,
Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.
Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious
and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in
abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I
met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen,
_I calculate_, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most
gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay,
to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see
what the result will be.
Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He
is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be
able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is _too bad_,
and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the
thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay,
which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.
Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are
more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still
disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of
Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes
of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked
at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted
my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of
the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.
Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took
Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a
large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to
be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his
own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited
Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good
selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.
Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and
passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place;
and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I
shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire;
but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with
a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too
dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are
a real plague.
Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard,
as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an
excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.
Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to
the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though
Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was
sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]
Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening
of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill,
for dealing feloniously in slaves.
Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but
at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about
the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa,
for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].
Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came _slick_ through the house,
and the weather was very cold.
Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a
great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced
to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the
question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion,
but which side he took is not told.]
Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house,
and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the
Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.
Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon
the subject of a letter from Morocco.
Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.
Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the
convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine
large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery
magnificent. As we returned by the _Bocca Leonie_, it made our ride
about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.
Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet
no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to
St. Roques’. Was disappointed.
Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met
Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured
afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As
young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters
to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The _Jasseim_ sailed.[3]
Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly
a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.
Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not
confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to
glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought
with him a lot of presents.
Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was
admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.
Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a
letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not
suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare
to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s
clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day,
and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and
the Society on Friday next.
Friday, Oct. 23.—The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.
Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of
congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect,
will prove a bore.
Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to
St. Michael’s cave.
Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for
Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.
Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan
_incog._ with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day
after to-morrow.
Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing
a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I
now mean to go to Tangier.
Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society
took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.
Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes
down here with a vengeance.
Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the _Jasseim_
has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.
Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to
be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered
a lucky day amongst the Turks.
Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve
in the _Jasseim_. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till
twelve P.M.
Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to
Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful
Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was
a very satisfactory one.
Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The
day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town
and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After
lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received
in return _mona_—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs;
we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.
Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.;
but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at
seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village
we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented
nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in
full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger
than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are
splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful
country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley,
and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted
the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates,
and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood
are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we
continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having
something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid
wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to
do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of
our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole
city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length
the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler,
who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer
at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.
Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made
arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name
of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers,
ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled,
were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his
kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had
a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with
tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it,
&c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6]
of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually
poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his
heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies
“_rárá_,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away
much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor
of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went
to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses
and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then
paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty,
and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the
bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a
few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is
well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected
by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty
thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.
Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during
the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present
of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would
have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán
and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east;
inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded
the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded,
through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned
home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler
we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and
Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were,
one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers
who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who
took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day
for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs;
two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to
his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and
one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.
Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of
ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get
out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The
journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M.,
when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.
Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer
has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of
the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met
Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied
by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes
of getting on.
Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very
unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned
man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk
handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that
to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid,
likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous
there was much lightning, which continued through the night.
Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My
fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have
employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked
out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier,
which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been
annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the
fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with
which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums;
a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept,
like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued
through the whole night.
Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to
see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word
_bahkshísh_[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling
they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the
church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation
consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the
Consul-general. Saw the game of _powder_[10] (_la’b-el-báród_)
played, myself on horseback and the Doctor[11] on foot. Fell in
with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf[12] and his long
gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party,
the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat
fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew
up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry
I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their
faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made,
but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive
to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of
continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight,
a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner
that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by
vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall
get a little rest.
Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from
Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the
officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues
here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance,
while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The
báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality,
and all looking equally wretched. As the tide had flowed up while
we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass
through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted
with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however,
very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two
others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the
Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The
strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no
little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were
ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different
countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to
three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied,
according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take
off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque;
they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the
general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins[13] here
are a better class of people than those who perform the same office
in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The
castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a
dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my _háik_
for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for
two dollars. The _zulham_ here answers to the _bornus_ of Egypt;
the _jelábíyah_ are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for
the arms to pass through.
Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with
Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.
Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in
Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old
government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank
Heaven! it was a little further off.
Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The
atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.
Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went
to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or
three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making
inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts
of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is
a tree of refuge.
Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the
market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe
storm. Therm. 66°.
Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and
lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow,
after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet
the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance
him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word;
he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made
their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am
very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.
Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable
weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well,
I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on
again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must
make up for it.
Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to
Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope,
nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.
Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I
find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese
Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were
dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.
Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét;
but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure
till to-morrow.
Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling,
which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah
horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied
by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. _“Poco negro;
cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.”_ Ben Káyed and Susa
were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez
gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title
of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We
fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow
and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village,
where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of
hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country,
but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We
passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are
said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into
stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When
opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the
right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work
of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages
have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few
minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted
for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five
P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various
rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly
ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor,
I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off,
to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest,
as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There
I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past
all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some
doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit,
as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their
confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients;
it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of
Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see
most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I
told the father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I
could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent,
and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.
Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We
found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours
over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16]
or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had
a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground,
where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the
side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people
here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh,
a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne,
to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The
population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never
taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables,
and miserable _kuskusú_.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you
perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called
the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second
circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is
full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter
have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is
fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg
are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance
of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°,
intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and
by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From
this stone a shelving road leads to a well called _’Aïn tayyeb_
(good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the
gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep
upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the
compass going round while we were taking the bearings of the place,
for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman
patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find
the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money
for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they
were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased
two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me,
together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One
account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it
is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried,
and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large
place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say,
it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the
shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn
in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones,
one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have
ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others,
each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned
above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It
appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes,
and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for
the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg
16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15
feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides
are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the
circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of
the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of
money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the
place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us,
and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our
own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with
the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and
mules, together with the miserable population in the background,
would have made an interesting group for a picture.
Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last
night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made
us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk,
a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin,
took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and
a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much
the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier,
and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The
road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw
the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to
Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people
of service to me? The soldier who came from the _dawárét_,[20]
to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off
before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts
of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly
swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather,
however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier,
at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under
the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again,
after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.
Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay
by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins
of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount
Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large
quantity of iron, of an ore-like[21] incrustation. The house and
garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful;
but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with
weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.
Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become
settled again. Therm. 51°.
Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The
Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he
were in heaven, brought a white _zulham_ for six dollars, and a
Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish
burial-ground to see the women. They have a strange custom here of
putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots,
upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present
is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest
class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage;
those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the
lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves
the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family:
she keeps the house for three months.
Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of
rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four
weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very
well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert
in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the
people. At night there was a heavy storm.
Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the
consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied
by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to
send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize
the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with
all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen,
under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the
escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes
were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every
thing was to be done to my satisfaction.
Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance
of clearing up.
Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No
boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.
Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my
pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his
tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy
gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.
Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new
Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite
as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out
and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw
the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters
men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour,
or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to
start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.
Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young
chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join
our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small,
and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense
as possible.
Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the
wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a
good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at
one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It
will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some
service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him,
I have determined to say no.
Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night
than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules
from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church;
perhaps for the last time for some period.
Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is
becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day
unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The
reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This
was the first night of Ramadan.
Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear,
and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from
Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her
eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with
torches and screams to the house of her husband.
Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid
the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and
procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together
with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting
to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave
Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?
Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but
no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten
A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good
Friday.
Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú
by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now,
the mules cannot be got ready. _Nunquam meus_. The weather
very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced
seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on
account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent
sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine
A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.
Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After
much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another,
and declining the honours of the grand _Hajj_[25] _As-sídí_, we
got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I
had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are
to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My _cortège_ consisted
of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European
consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road
as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At
half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We
reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we
encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten
miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment
appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and
the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my
_monnah_ came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls,
three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four _ardebs_[26] of barley,
and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf,
which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear
that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the
Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought
with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his
master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented
the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met
with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one,
just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The
snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.
Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much
quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten,
we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past
nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of
some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27]
From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded
to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the
western limit). Our _monnah_ soon began to make its appearance; it
consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred
eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the
allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their
appetites; for the soldiers have three _monnah_ of kuskasú in
addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The
káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.
Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it
impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight
A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through
several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of
Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the _grinding-river_,
(Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks,
we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has
refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off
early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by
mid-day, and see the town. Our _monnah_ to-day consisted of a cow,
two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers,
barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár
is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We
were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us,
making up six tents.
Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load
of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the
soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during
the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our
road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest
of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are
the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the
wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty
blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh,
which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos
was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived
at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war,
and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got
across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After
bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and,
after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an
hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an
escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the
town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four
thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the
gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected
the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise
the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s;
but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave
him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with
a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that
we could come to-morrow. Our _monnah_ was very poor; and the káïd
sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This
remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax
candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor
fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He
and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and
the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us,
intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by
the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them
to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having
broken down, I was compelled to change her.