In Travelling from _Pau_ to BAYONNE 'twa_The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

_Languedoc_, the Roads being terrible, and the Inns detestable, for which

Reason I did not halt at all by the Way, but made Haste to _Bayonne_: The

next Day after I arriv'd, I went to pay a Visit to the King's Lieutenant,

who commanded there: He was a Native of _Canada_, and, if I am not

mistaken, had been a Major or Lieutenant-Colonel in the Regiment of

_Normandy_: The Duke Regent had made him a Brigadier, and at the same time

created him a Knight of _St. Lewis_, at that great Promotion of Knights

which he made at the Beginning of the War with _Spain_: He had given him

for his Assistant one _Dadoncourt_, as a Man that he could depend on; and

'twas this Gentleman that receiv'd me, the King's Lieutenant being at that

time absent from _Bayonne_: I lik'd this _Dadoncourt_ at first Sight: He

entertain'd me politely, and when I told him my Intention to go to

_Spain_; he said, I might do as I pleas'd, and that he saw nothing to

hinder it: He came next Day to see me, and invited me to dine with him: I

accepted his Kindness, but afterwards repented it; for the Company was far

from being select, and the Conversation very much disgusted me: In my

first Interview with _Dadoncourt_ I made Mention to him of a Visit that I

had paid to the Count _de S----_ in _Languedoc_: He talk'd of this to me

very much while we were at Dinner, and he declar'd his Astonishment, that

the Duke Regent had restor'd him to his Liberty, instead of cutting off

his Head, as he had deserv'd: _Really_, said he, with some Warmth of

Temper, to which I fancy the Wine had in some measure contributed, _His

Royal Highness was too good-natur'd; all those Rascals, that presum'd to

have a Hand in the Prince of_ Cellamare_'s Affair, ought to have paid for

it with their Heads_: I could not help being amaz'd at the Man's Pertness,

and told him very mildly, that the Regent had behav'd most wisely, and

that it would have been too cruel to put People of the first Quality to

Death, the Spilling of whose Blood would perhaps have rous'd some

Vengeance: _Alas! Sir_, said he, _What could have been done? The Duke of_

Orleans _was sure of the Guards and Garisons; every body in the Country

would certainly have stood up in his Defence, and I myself would have been

the Hangman to have tuck'd up the first Gentleman that had offer'd to make

a Disturbance_: I plainly saw that I had to do with a surly Companion; and

perceiving also that he was fuddled, I let him run on as much as he would,

in magnifying the Attachment he pretended he had to the Duke Regent; but

made a Promise to myself, that it should be the last time I would visit a

Man that was so bloody-minded.

After Dinner was over, I went to have Audience of the Queen of _Spain_,

_Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, the Dowager of _Charles_ II. When I came to the

Palace, or rather to a very pitiful House, where the Queen was lodg'd, I

found one of her Equerries, who carry'd me to an Antichamber, and leaving

me for a few Moments, he came again, and conducted me to the Apartment of

the Duchess of _Liquares_, Lady of Honour to the Queen; who was

prodigiously civil to me, but, as she understood no Language besides the

_Spanish_, it was impossible for us to converse, otherwise than by Signs,

of which she gave me a good Number, and which I answer'd by as many Bows.

As good Luck would have it, we were disengag'd from one another by an

Order that came to her, to carry me to the Queen: I found her Majesty

standing all alone in her Chamber, and dress'd in Black after the

_Spanish_ Mode: I saw in the next Chamber some of the Maids of Honour, who

were also in the _Spanish_ Dress, and peep'd in at the Door, which was

left half open: The Queen receiv'd me very graciously, ask'd my Name and

my Country, and seem'd overjoy'd to find a _German_, who was tolerably

acquainted with a Country for which she had always an Affection: She

inquir'd what News I brought of the Elector and the Princes her Brothers:

I was qualify'd to satisfy her Majesty in all those Questions, because I

had the Honour of paying my Court punctually to the Elector Palatine, and

the Princes her Brothers: In fine, after an Audience of an Hour and more,

the Queen dismiss'd me, when I stoop'd with one Knee to the Ground, and

kiss'd her Hand, according to the Custom that is observ'd in _Spain_.

The next and the following Days I had the Honour to pay my Duty to her;

sometimes in the Capuchins Convent, where she heard Mass very often; and

sometimes in that of the Cordeliers, to which her Majesty went almost

every Afternoon to Prayers: At other times I repair'd to a Garden behind

the House, where her Majesty frequently took a Walk after she had din'd.

This Princess always express'd herself in such a kind familiar manner as

charm'd me, and she was often glad to be disencumber'd from that Ceremony,

which is no less fatiguing to the Princes who grant Audience, than to

those who are admitted to it: She did me the Honour to ask me one Day,

Whether I did not wonder to see her in such mean Lodgings, and with such a

despicable Court? I own'd to her, that at first I was a little surpriz'd

at her Majesty's preferring such a Mansion to the old Castle in the Town,

which really look'd more like a Palace than the House she liv'd in: _But_,

said she, _I am so us'd to my little Habitation, that I can't find in my

Heart to leave it: I retir'd to it during the Contention between the

Houses of_ Austria _and_ Bourbon, _that I might not be so much exposed to

Company, as I must have been unavoidably, if I had resided in the Castle,

where every Passenger, either from_ Spain _or_ France, _would no doubt

have been desirous of seeing me; all which Visits would infallibly have

given Umbrage to one or other of the Two Parties, if not to Both; and I

had good Reasons to keep fair with each._

Another Day, when I had the Honour to discourse with her about _Spain_ and

_Germany_, I took the Freedom to tell her, that I wonder'd why her

Majesty chose rather to stay at _Bayonne_, than to live in one or other of

those Countries where I fancy'd she would have more Authority, and more

People of Quality to attend her. _As for your Persons of Quality_, said

the Queen, _I do not give myself much Trouble about them: All Men are

alike to crown'd Heads, and are great no farther than as we bring them to

our Courts, and honour them with our Confidence. A Man that you now call a

Scrub, perhaps, if I were to give him a Post To-morrow, and admit him to

my Service, he is to me as great a Lord as if his Ancestors had liv'd and

dy'd in the same Employment. And as for residing in_ Spain _or in_

Germany, _I have weighty Reasons against dwelling in either. For in_ Spain

_I should be oblig'd to live in a Convent, which is my utter Aversion. In_

Germany _I should, indeed, have all my Family about me; but the Court of_

Spain _would, perhaps, be uneasy at my living in the Empire, and I should

be teiz'd in respect to my Dowry, which I am very willing to preserve_.

All these Reasons, and what was more than all, a long Acquaintance, made

her loth to quit _Bayonne_; and that Retirement she enjoy'd there, was

more agreeable to her Taste, than the Bustle of a numerous Court, where

very often the Prince and the Courtier tread on one another's Toes. The

Air of Freedom which reign'd at this little Court, and the Queen's

Goodness in conversing with me so often, was the reason that I put off my

Journey to _Spain_ from one Day to another. At last, however, after

various Delays, I prepar'd in good earnest for my Departure. But at the

very Time when I thought I had nothing more to do than to take my Leave of

her Majesty, a very disgraceful Incident happen'd to me, which put me as

much out of Conceit with _Bayonne_ as I was before in Love with it. By

some imprudent Jokes that I had thrown out in Conversation, I had incurr'd

the Displeasure of the King's Lieutenant, who made use of a specious

Pretext in order to be reveng'd of me. I will tell you my Tale in a few

Words as follows:

There was a Woman at the Queen's Court, who, by her Frankness, in which

there was a Mixture of Impertinence, made her Court to the Queen with so

much Art, that her Majesty was kinder to her than any Services she was

capable of performing could deserve at her Hands. This Woman's Name was

_la Borde_: She was a Merchant's Widow, but married afterwards

clandestinely to the Queen's _Major-Domo_, and had the intire Government

of her Majesty's House, where she did not fail to give her daily

Attendance.

The Queen having permitted this Woman to sit in her Presence, it made her

so vain, that she forgot her mean Original, and affected the Air of a

Princess; but so ill did it become her, that she was quickly hated for it,

not only by the Queen's Officers, but by the whole City of _Bayonne_. The

only Person who was attach'd to her, was the King's Lieutenant; and that,

for no other Reason, but because this Officer being in a poor Plight when

he came first to _Bayonne_, and having moreover little to depend on, was

oblig'd to solicit the Queen for some Gratifications, in which _Madame la

Borde_ had employ'd her Interest to serve him: And serve him she did

without much Difficulty, because the Queen is so good-natur'd and

generous, that she is never better pleas'd than when she is bestowing

Favours. The Grotesque Figure of the King's Lieutenant, and the queer

Dress of the Lady _la Borde_, were an inexhaustible Fund of Mirth for the

Queen's Houshold. In short, 'twas impossible for a Person of the most

serious Gravity, not to laugh on the one hand at the old shock Pate of the

Lieutenant, who was vulgarly call'd _The Eternal Father_, and on the other

hand to see Dame _la Borde_, who was commonly wrapp'd up in Three or Four

Night-Gowns of different Colours one over another, and one shorter than

the other, whose favourite Head-Geer was Cornets fix'd on, with a careless

Air, by Scarlet Ribbons, and who had a monstrous Nosegay of Flowers ty'd

to one Side of her, with a Straw-colour'd Ribbon, and the Picture of some

unknown Saint fasten'd also to the other, by a Ribbon of the same Colour:

And to all these Gowns, a little Lackey, every whit as ridiculous as the

Mistress, was the Train-Bearer. I profess to you, _Madame_, that I could

not contain myself at the Sight of such ridiculous Figures; and therefore,

being once with some Company at Supper, when I was in a gay Humour, I let

fall some very severe Banters upon this charming Couple; of which the

King's Lieutenant being inform'd, vow'd Revenge; and I was advertis'd by a

_German_ Cordelier, who was the Queen's Confessor, that there was a Design

to apprehend me. But not being conscious of any Crime I had committed to

deserve it, I thought, at first, 'twas only given out to terrify me.

Nevertheless, I went to _Dadoncourt_, and, without mentioning any Name,

acquainted him of the Warning that had been given to me. He swore by his

Honour, and call'd to God to witness it, that he never had a Thought of

arresting me; and that I was free to go when and where I pleas'd. Upon

this I went back to my Quarters, almost persuaded that I had been falsly

alarm'd; but no sooner was I in my Chamber, but the Major of the Place

enter'd, with a subaltern Officer and a couple of Soldiers, with their

Bayonets at the End of their Musquets. He told me, that he was come in the

King's Name to arrest me, and that he had Orders to commit me to the

Citadel, together with my _Valet de Chambre_. He also demanded all my

Papers, and the Keys of my Coffers; and whatever he ask'd for I gave him.

He left my Cloaths, _&c._ to the Care of my Landlord, charging him to be

answerable for them; and then carry'd me to the Citadel, where I was put

into one Room, and my _Valet de Chambre_ into another; and a Centinel was

clapp'd at my Door, who was order'd to let no Person whatsoever come to

speak to me. Towards the Evening, when they brought me Supper, I desir'd

Pen, Ink, and Paper, which was presently granted, and I wrote to the

King's Lieutenant, to be inform'd of the Reason why he had put me under an

Arrest, and at the same Time to know whether I might be permitted to write

into _France_ to the Duke Regent and my Friends. He sent me Answer next

Day, that the only Cause of my being a Prisoner was, that I had discover'd

too much Friendship to the Count _de S----_: That I ought to remember what

I said of the Count before his Face, in Presence of Witnesses, which had

given him a Suspicion that I was but too deeply concern'd in the

Conspiracy he had fomented against the Regent: That in Consequence,

especially as he had not the Honour to know me, he should have thought it

a Failure of his Duty, if he had not secur'd my Person: That, for the

rest, he would write to Court, and that, if it appear'd I was not guilty

of any thing, I should soon be set at Liberty. He concluded his Letter

with Assurances of his Friendship, and a Protestation that he would do

what he could to serve me.

Since I knew not what I could do better, as my Circumstances then were, I

was glad to depend upon the good Offices which the King's Lieutenant

proffer'd to do me; and in order to compose myself a little, I lay a Bed

as long as ever 'twas possible; for the only Remedy that could render my

Imprisonment tolerable was Sleep: But when I awak'd, a thousand different

Thoughts rack'd my Brain: Projects brooded over Projects, and I imagin'd

Schemes without Number for Deliverance out of my Scrape; but they were no

other than so many Castles in the Air, which instantly vanish'd as soon as

I came to serious Reflection.

Having pass'd my Time thus for several Days, I receiv'd a Visit, which at

first did not please me. Who should enter my Room, but an Officer, a

Serjeant, and Four Soldiers, with their Bayonets in their Musquets. The

Officer told me I must go with him to the Major of the Citadel, who was

appointed to examine me. Being in a Situation wherein 'twas my wisest way

to be tractable, I follow'd the Officer. When we came before the Major, we

found him sitting in an Elbow-Chair: He was wonderful civil to me, and

desir'd me to excuse him for not rising up to receive me, because he was

so afflicted with the Gout that he could not stir. Then he pray'd me to

sit down, and ask'd me who and what I was, whence and whither I was bound,

and the like: To all those Questions I return'd very _Laconic_ Answers,

which, together with the Questions, were reduc'd to Writing, and I was

made to sign them; and then I was carry'd back to my Chamber.

Two Days after this my _Valet de Chambre_ was set at Liberty, and had

Leave to attend me. I was also permitted to receive a Visit from one

Father _Thomas_, a _German_ Capuchin. These two Favours, granted both at

once, pleas'd me mightily; and I entertain'd great Hopes that my own

Liberty was approaching: So that every time I heard the Rattle of the

Keys, I imagin'd my Keeper was coming to tell me that I was no longer his

Prisoner. I flatter'd myself that the Duke Regent would give Orders for my

Discharge, and therefore was impatient to hear from him: But when I heard,

the Message was very different from what I expected: For _Dadoncourt_ sent

me a Note, acquainting me, that he had receiv'd Orders from Court to

confine me more closely. He not only executed his Orders, but I really

believe he exceeded them; for, not content with depriving me a second Time

of my _Valet de Chambre_, and forbidding Father _Thomas_ to come near me,

'twas no Thanks to him that I had not been starv'd to Death with Hunger

and Cold. He was afraid that my bare Imprisonment was not Punishment

enough, and therefore he treated me with all the Severity that could be.

My Commons were retrench'd one half; and as to Firing, it was intirely

suppress'd, for fear I should set Fire to the Citadel. I therefore wrote

to him, and made an Offer to purchase it at my own Expence, if he would

give me Leave: But he made me Answer, that a _Prussian_ could not be so

chilly as to be sensible of the Cold in _Guyenne_; and he was so

impertinent as to add, that if I was really cold, he would have me keep

my Bed. Nor was this all: Money was so scarce with me, that I was resolv'd

to discount the Bank Bills I had left, which were almost sunk to nothing.

But _Dadoncourt_ no sooner heard of it, than he sent the Banker an Order

not to discount them, for fear, perhaps, that I should make use of the

Money to corrupt my Keepers. Moreover, he abus'd his Authority to such a

Degree, that he caus'd my Cloaths &_c_. to be sold, to pay for what I had

run up at my Quarters while I stay'd at _Bayonne_. I would fain have

prevented this Sale, but 'twas to no Purpose, for I could not get Leave so

much as to send a Friend thither to take Care that every thing was done

with tolerable Decency; so that _Dadoncourt's Valet de Chambre_ bought the

whole for one Eighth Part of the Value; and I could never get a just

Account what the Profit of the Sale amounted to. 'Tis true, that when I

was restor'd to my Liberty, they did not demand any Money of me.

So many Injuries offer'd to me, one upon the Neck of another, exasperated

me not a little. I wrote several Letters not only to the Duke of

_Orleans_, but _M. le Blanc_, Secretary of War, and sent them to the

Post-House at _Acqs_ by a Soldier, who undertook to deliver them for some

Money, which I handed to him, together with my Letters, thro' a Chink of

my Door: But it all signify'd nothing. I likewise wrote a Letter to the

Queen of _Spain_, but that Princess, who then deem'd me a State Criminal,

did not care to be concern'd for me: Which Denial of her's completed my

Despair, and I took it so much to Heart, that I fell sick, but they would

not allow me a Physician.

At this very Time the Baron _de Montbel_ came to _Bayonne_, and hearing

that I was a Prisoner in the Citadel, he desir'd to see me. This Baron,

who was by Birth a _Frenchman_, went to _Berlin_ at the Time of the

Revocation of the Edict of _Nantes_: He had an Employment given him at

that Court, and had been a Captain in the Regiment which was my late

Father's. He was going at this Time to _Spain_. _Dadoncourt_ refus'd

point-blank to let him come and see me. Then the Baron desir'd Leave to

send me his Compliments by my _Valet de Chambre_, which _Dadoncourt_

granted, but 'twas only to affront me the more grosly; for my _Valet de

Chambre_ was no sooner enter'd into the Citadel, but he was search'd, in

order to know if he had not Letters for me; and none being found upon him,

_Dadoncourt_ said he was sure that the Baron had given him Letters to

deliver to me, and that he must and should produce them. My Man still

denying that he had receiv'd any Letter, was thrown into a Dungeon, where

he was threatened he should lie till he rotted, if he did not confess that

Letters had been given or offer'd to him for me.

This, _Madame_, was my melancholy Situation at _Bayonne_, having been

arrested on sham Pretences, pining with Hunger and Cold, depriv'd of all

Help, abandon'd by a Princess on whose Protection I had great Dependance,

and having nothing to comfort me: I had a good Conscience indeed, which

did not reproach me with any thing laid to my Charge; but this is a weak

Support, when a Man is to cope with such Enemies as make no more to

destroy the Innocent than the Guilty! A Persecution so unjust plung'd me

sometimes into Melancholy, and at other times made me raving mad; so that

when I came to myself, I was afraid I should lose all my Reason. At last

this Disturbance of my Mind, all these Passions subsided happily in a

Philosophical Calm, which restor'd me to myself. When I was composed, I

reason'd justly enough: I consider'd, that to fret and vex myself to

Death, would be the greatest Folly I could be guilty of; and that there

was no other Remedy but Time and Patience: I resolv'd therefore to

acquiesce like a true Philosopher; and I said to myself, that I had

nothing more to do but to be as easy as I could in the Citadel, till

_Lewis_ XV. was declar'd of Age.

I had just begun to be reconcil'd to my Chamber and to Silence, when News

was brought me of my Liberty: 'Twas on the 31st of _January_ that

_Dadoncourt's Valet de Chambre_ came and told me, that his Master had

received Orders from Court to let me out of the Citadel; but that, as it

was late, he desir'd me to stay there that Night, and that next Day I

might go where I pleas'd: I consented to lye one Night more in the

Citadel; but next Day _Dadoncourt_, without Regard to the Assurance he had

sent me that I should have my full Liberty, and, by Consequence, either

stay or set out that Instant, as I pleas'd; sent to ask me what time I

intended to go for _Spain_; adding, that he had received Orders to send me

thither, and not to suffer me to stay any longer in _Bayonne_: I return'd

him a short Answer, but said enough to him to give him to understand, that

I was not in a Condition to set out, because, as my whole Substance

consisted in Bank Bills, which were at that time worth little or nothing,

I was under a Necessity of staying till I had discounted them, and that in

the mean time I was content to remain in the Citadel, till I could raise

Money, unless he himself would be so kind as to assist me: I added, that

if I must not discount my Bills, I desir'd Leave at least to go to

_Holland_, where I should find Relations or Friends who would serve me:

_Dadoncourt_ return'd me an Answer with all the Sauciness and Impertinence

of a Man of his Kidney: He sent to tell me, that he was neither a

Money-Changer, nor a Banker, to discount my Bills; that I could not stay

in the Citadel, because he had Orders to turn me out of it; and lastly,

that he would not suffer me to go to _Holland_, because he was by the same

Order injoin'd to send me to _Spain_: I thought this a blunt Sort of an

Answer; for, in short, as he knew who I was, he might, and even ought, to

have us'd me more politely; and even supposing that his Orders were as

urgent as he pretended, yet a Gentleman would have known better than to

notify them in that manner: I therefore saw myself under a Necessity of

travelling to _Spain_, with nothing but my Staff to support me; which

would certainly have been the Case, had it not been for Father _Thomas_,

who helped me to 40 Pistoles, upon Two thousand Livres worth of Bank

Bills; which Money I made use of to bear my Travelling-Expences: The

Luggage I had to carry was not very cumbersome; for I have had the Honour

to acquaint you, that _Dadoncourt_ had taken Care of that by selling off

what I had. My Journey to _Spain_ being reckon'd an Affair of the utmost

Importance, I had a Guard put upon me to conduct me to the Frontiers,

where they were so civil, as to shew me the Orders from Court, which were

executed with the utmost Strictness: They were contain'd in a Letter

directed to _Dadoncourt_ from _M. le Blanc_ the Secretary at War, in

Substance as follows: _His Royal Highness is willing, Sir, that you should

release the Baron_ de Pollnitz, _who is a Prisoner in the Citadel of_

Bayonne, _on Condition that he depart the Kingdom; and for this Reason I

desire you to cause him to be conducted to the Frontier of_ Spain.

My Guard took Leave of me on the Frontiers and I continued my Journey to

_Pampeluna_: By the Way I saw the famous _Pyrenean_ Mountains, the Passage

of which is very different from that of the _Alps_, there being not an Inn

to be met with but what looks much more like a Den of Thieves: The

Inhabitants of these Mountains have something mischievous in their very

Physiognomy, which makes Travellers afraid of 'em. I was forc'd to spend

one Night with my _Valet de Chambre_ in a Cabaret, where there being a

Score of these Fellows, we resolv'd to sit up all Night without going to

Bed; and I fancy, that in so doing, we acted very wisely, for those

Mountaineers look'd like a Parcel of Cut-throats: I set out as early as

possible in the Morning from this horrible Place for PAMPELUNA, where I

arriv'd towards the Evening: I alighted at an Inn, which was recommended

to me as the best in Town, but I found it every whit as bad as those that

I had met with in my Passage from _Bayonne_: The Bread, the Wine, their

Meat, Bedding and every thing was detestably bad: However, as I thought I

had a better Chance for my Life there, than in the Houses of Entertainment

among the Mountains; I made myself amends for sitting up all the last

Night, and slept soundly till next Day.

I went and paid a Visit to the Prince of _Castillone_ Viceroy of

_Navarre_, who was prodigiously civil to me: I let him into the true

State of my Affairs, and what I had suffer'd from the King's Lieutenant at

_Bayonne_: This Nobleman seem'd to be concern'd at my present Condition,

and was so kind as to make me an Offer of whatever I wanted; but as to the

Treatment I had met with from the King's Lieutenant, it surpriz'd him not

at all: He told me too, that I was not the first Man who had been so

treated, and that he could not imagine how it happen'd, that the Regent

was not informed of all the Acts of Injustice committed at _Bayonne_: He

advis'd me to write to his Royal Highness, and to give him an exact

Account of all my Treatment: _If this_, said he, _does not procure you

some Amends, I am certain, at least, that 'twill get him a Reprimand_: I

did as _M. de Castillone_ advis'd me; I wrote both to the Regent and to

_M. le Blanc_, but 'twas all to no Purpose; for my Enemies had made such a

Devil of me to the Prince and the Minister, that not content with

returning me no Answer, they wrote to _M. de M----_, who had the Care of

the _French_ Affairs at _Madrid_, to thwart me in every thing he could:

And he, for his Part, punctually observ'd his Instructions, not so much in

pure Obedience to his Prince, as for the Pleasure he took in doing me

Mischief.

_M. de Castillone_ was so good-natur'd as to shew me what was most

remarkable at _Pampeluna_: We took a Walk together without the Town, the

Situation of which I thought very fine: 'Tis encompass'd with Walls, and

fortify'd with Bastions and Half-Moons: Yet all this Fortification would

be of little Defence, were it not for the Citadel, which was repair'd, and

considerably augmented, during the Ministry of the Cardinal _Alberoni_.

All the Road from _Pampeluna_ to _Madrid_ is quite disagreeable, there

being nothing to be seen but rusty Fields, here and there a ragged

Village; and what was still more vexatious, Houses of Entertainment, where

there was scarce any thing to be had: But 'tis much worse when we leave

_Navarre_, and enter _Castile_, there being nothing at all to be had in

their Public-Houses: You are accommodated with a Chamber indeed, and

that's all; for if you want to eat any thing, you must send out your

Domestics to buy it, and dress it yourselves: But, however, the

Necessaries of Life may be easily had any where, and at a moderate Price:

I travell'd thro' the whole Country without meeting with any Disaster,

which is not a little astonishing, Murders and Robberies being very common

in _Spain_.

* * * * *

I arriv'd on a _Sunday_-Night at ALCALA, a City in _New-Castile_, famous

for its University: This City is oblig'd for its Magnificence to the

Cardinal _Ximenes_, who, being Prime Minister under _Ferdinand_ of

_Arragon_, and _Isabel_ of _Castile_, spar'd no Cost to render this City

one of the most beautiful in _Spain_: The first thing that he did was to

build very fine Colleges; and when he became Regent of _Spain_, after the

Death of _Ferdinand_, he founded an University here.

* * * * *

'Tis but Seven Leagues from _Alcala_ to MADRID, but this Capital is not to

be seen till one comes just upon it, because it stands in a Bottom on the

River _Mancanares_: The Entrance into _Madrid_ has a feint Resemblance for

a little way, with the Entrance into _Rome_, thro' the Gate _del Popoli_:

Three Streets, in the Shape of a Goose's Foot, lead to the Centre of the

City: I went into that on the Right Hand, which carry'd me to the Square

of _St. Domingo_, where was a _French_ Inn, to which I had been

recommended: When I alighted out of my Chaise, I was heartily embrac'd by

a Man whom I had formerly seen in the Service of King _Stanislaus_ of

_Poland_, and afterwards at _Paris_, but he was oblig'd to fly from that

City, for Fear of falling into the Hands of Justice.

This Man was accus'd of being One in Three who had robb'd and murder'd an

Abbe: Tho' he was run away, the Trial took its Course, and he was

condemn'd in Outlawry to be broke alive on the Wheel, which Sentence was

executed accordingly in Effigie: After several Tours he came at last to

_Madrid_, where all that come from _France_ are receiv'd with open Arms:

He had chang'd his Name of _Le G----_ for that of the Baron _D----_. I

recollected him perfectly the very Moment that he embraced me, but his

Affair in _France_ was still so fresh in my Memory, that I did not think

fit to make a very affectionate Return for the Civilities of this new

Baron, but ask'd a great many Pardons that I could not call him to Mind:

The Man seem'd still very eager to be known to me, and said, _Pray, are

not you the Baron_ de Pollnitz? _Don't you remember to have seen me at_

Berlin, _then at_ Hanover, _&c._ I still pretended Ignorance; but my

Gentleman proceeded to rub up my Memory, and talk'd a great deal to me of

his Journey to _Paris_, and mention'd several Circumstances: Being at last

fatigued with all this long Detail, I thought it would oblige him to give

him some Glimpse that I knew him; and therefore mention'd the Names of

several People that we had been with together, to make him believe that I

was in Quest of his; and at length seeing him overjoy'd to think that I

was like to find out his Name by beating the Bush, I chose to give him

that Satisfaction, and said to him, tho' with an Air of great Uncertainty,

_Pray, Sir, Was not your Name_Le G----? At the very Mention of this Name

my Friend chang'd Countenance, turn'd from red to pale, and retir'd at

last without giving me an Answer, or, at least, 'twas with such a low

Voice, that I could not understand a Syllable of what he said. For my own

Part, I thought of nothing but calling to my Landlord for a Room; and

after I had rested myself a little, I went down at Night to sup at my

Landlord's Table, where some of the Company happen'd to be the very same

Officers that had seen me talking with _Le G----_. They ask'd me, if I was

acquainted with the Gentleman that accosted me, and what was his Name: I

made no Scruple to satisfy them, and not knowing that he had alter'd his

Name upon his leaving _France_, I said, without thinking any Harm, that

'twas _Le G----_, I had no sooner pronounc'd his Name, but one of the

Company cry'd out, _Ah! Morblieu! the very Man that assassinated the Abbe_

V. _How durst such a Villain come hither to sollicit an Employment!_ I

plainly saw that I had committed an Oversight, in discovering a Name to

those Strangers, which had put the Person who bore it so much out of

Countenance; but I thought at the same time, that _Le G----_ had been

guilty of a much greater, in putting me under that Necessity: I

endeavour'd to set all to Rights again, by saying, that perhaps I was

mistaken, and that the Baron _D----_ was not _Le G----_: but they would

not admit of it; they all exaggerated the Baseness of the Murder that had

forc'd him to fly from _France_; and, in short, the Story was so toss'd

about in an Instant, that the pretended Baron was oblig'd to leave

_Madrid_: I have been told since, that he retir'd to _Portugal_, where

Fortune has been pretty Favourable to him.

I had not been long at _Madrid_ before I met with several of my

Acquaintance: The very Day after my Arrival I receiv'd Visits from above a

Score of Officers, _French_ and _Germans_, whom I had seen at several

Courts: At my Quarters I also found the Baron _de Montbel_, who had taken

so much fruitless Pains to inquire after my Health when I was a Prisoner

in the Citadel of _Bayonne_: To be short, in a very little time, I found

as many, and even more Acquaintance than I wanted, especially at my first

coming to _Madrid_, where I did not aim at keeping any Company more than

was necessary to my obtaining an Employment: I thought immediately how I

should be introduc'd to the King and Queen: The Person who procur'd me

Audience from his Majesty was one _la Roche_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, who

was the King's chief _Valet de Chambre_, Secretary of his Dispatches, and

likewise Introducer of Ambassadors.

'Twas in a private Audience that I had the Honour of waiting on his

Majesty: This is different from a public Audience, in that the latter,

which is generally for common People, is granted with the Doors open, and

in Presence of the Grandees, who are standing on both Sides of the Hall,

and cover'd: The King is then seated in a Chair of State, plac'd under a

Canopy: From the Entrance of the Audience Room to the King's Chair Three

Genuflections are made; and when the Persons, who are honour'd with the

Audience, are advanc'd near his Majesty's Person, they deliver what they

have to say upon their Knees: _Philip_ V. never makes any other Answer,

than _I will see, I will consider it_. After such Audience is ended, the

Person who officiates as Master of the Ceremonies gives Notice with an

audible Voice, when there is to be a private Audience. The Grandees then

retire, and the Doors are shut, and I had my Audience in the manner

following: I found the King alone in his Chamber, made my Three Obeisances

to him, and when I came near to him fell on my Knees: I then said to him,

that having heard his Majesty's Piety and his Zeal for the Catholic

Religion highly extoll'd in all Places where-ever I had been; I thought I

could not do better than to come and prostrate myself at his Feet, and to

offer him my most humble Service; that I had incurr'd the Displeasure of

my Sovereign, and lost all Expectation of ever being able to serve with

Satisfaction in my own Country, because I had embrac'd the _Romish_

Religion, whereof I shew'd his Majesty a Testimonial, sign'd by the

Cardinal _de Noailles_: I also shew'd him a Letter from the King of

_Prussia_, with the Grant of the first Pension annex'd to the Office of

Gentleman of the Bedchamber, which I had still no doubt enjoy'd, had I not

alter'd my Religion: The King took the King of _Prussia_'s Letter, and the

Testimonial of the Cardinal _de Noailles_, look'd upon both of them, and

return'd them to me, saying, _I will consider your Request, and will soon

dispatch you_: I then presented a Memorial to him, which he put in his

Pocket, after which I arose, and went backwards out of the Chamber,

repeating my Three Obeisances.

From the King's Audience I went to that of the Queen, to which I was

introduc'd by her chief _Major-Domo_: This Princess was dress'd in the

_Amazons_ Habit, because she was going a Hunting with the King; her first

Lady of Honour and some of the Ladies of the Bedchamber were present: I

also saw in the Door-way between the Chamber of Audience and the Queen's

own Chamber the Prince of _Asturias_, who dy'd King of _Spain_ in 1724,

the _Infantes_ his Brothers, and the _Infanta Maria-Anna Victoria_. I

deliver'd myself to the Queen in very near the same Words as I had just

before to the King, and she return'd me a gracious Answer, that _She

should be always glad to serve me as far as lay in her Power_: I withdrew,

hugely delighted with so obliging an Answer.

This, _Madame_, was my first setting out at the Court of _Spain_: It was

natural, in the first Place, to look after the Main-Chance; for, as I have

had the Honour to acquaint you, I had but little Cash; and what was worse

Luck than all, no Effects, from which I could hope to raise any, so that

if I had thrown myself ever so little into Company, I should have run the

Risque of being soon a Beggar: The obliging manner in which the King and

Queen had been pleas'd to receive me, was a reviving Cordial to my

drooping Spirits: I began to entertain fresh Hopes, and thinking myself

already in some Share of Favour, I went abroad among my Acquaintance, I

found old Friends, and made new ones, and I had good Success at Play,

which I thought a happy Omen, and enabled me to frequent the Court with

that Ease and Freedom, which Persons seldom discover whose Finances are

out of Order.

I am now to give you a short Account of the Court, and of those who made

the greatest Figure at it; I need not treat of the King, all Mankind

knows, and the late Wars sufficiently prov'd, that _Lewis_, Dauphin of

_France_, Son to _Lewis_ XIV. was his Father: He marry'd to his first Wife

_Maria-Louisa Galeriela_ of _Savoy_, who dy'd at _Madrid_ the 14th of

_February_, 1714, and whose Memory is still dear to the _Spaniards_; they

greatly miss the _Savoyard_, as they call this Princess; The King of

_Spain_ had several Children by her; the Eldest was _Don Lewis_, Prince of

_Asturias_, afterwards King of _Spain_, by the Resignation of the King his

Father in 1724, but this young Prince dy'd the same Year: The Name of the

second was _Don Philip_, who was born at _Madrid_ in 1712, and dy'd in

1721; and the third _Don Ferdinand_, now Prince of _Asturias_.

After the Death of that Princess the King marry'd _Elizabeth Farnese_,

Niece and Daughter-in-Law to the Duke of _Parma_: By this Princess the

King has also had several Princes and Princesses: The Eldest Prince is

_Don Carlos_, and was destin'd by the Quadruple Alliance to the Succession

of _Tuscany_ and the Duchies of _Parma_ and _Placentia_: The second is

_Don Philip_, who was born the 15th of _March_, 1720.

The Queen is tall and handsome, well-shap'd, but slender, and much pitted

with the Small-Pox. She has a vast and enterprizing Genius, which no

Difficulties can terrify. She made it very plain as soon as she set her

Foot on _Spanish_ Ground, that she would not suffer herself to be led by

the Nose: For before she had even seen the Face of the King, she banish'd

the Princess of _Ursins_, both from the Court and Kingdom, because of the

Ascendant she knew that Princess had over the King. She thought also of

removing the _French_ from about him, and endeavour'd to put his Majesty

out of Conceit with his own Countrymen. The _Spaniards_ were at first well

enough pleas'd with all these Alterations, and hop'd that at length one of

their own Nation would be singled out for Prime Minister; but they had the

Mortification to see themselves govern'd by a Foreigner. The Abbot

(afterwards Cardinal) _Alberoni_, by Birth a _Parmesan_, was advanc'd to

the chief Dignities both in Church and State, and govern'd _Spain_ with

such seeming Success, as made the Subjects entertain great Hopes of him.

He gave the Queen a Glimpse of mighty Fortune that was to befal her Son:

But a more refin'd Set of Politics knock'd all those vain Projects on the

Head; and the Queen was so prejudic'd against him, that she was the first

who persuaded the King to remove the Cardinal; which happen'd in the

Manner that I have already had the Honour to acquaint you. The Credit of

the Queen herself, however, suffer'd some Shock by this Alteration; for

the King was for a while undetermin'd what Measures to take, but at length

he replac'd all his Confidence in the Queen, and 'tis she that still

governs, tho', indeed, she is supported by Ministers who have great

Talents for Government.

The Person who had the Charge of Foreign Affairs when I arriv'd at

_Madrid_, was the Marquis _Grimaldo_, who had the Reputation of a Man of

the strictest Honour and Probity. I had the Favour to see him more than

once, and he always receiv'd me with very great Civility. I have been

told, that he thorowly knows the King's good Pleasure with regard to such

private Men as make their Court to him; and that when he tells a Person

the King has a Respect for him, he need not despair of carrying any Point.

Nevertheless, I question whether such a Compliment could be safely

depended on; for, I observ'd, he paid it to a great many People: And, as

for my own Part, _M. Grimaldo_ said to me, that the King was so gracious

as to esteem me, before I had even the Honour of paying my Duty to his

Majesty.

_M. de Campo Florido_ had the Management of the Finances. He was a very

polite disinterested Minister; and 'tis certain that he made none of those

Purchases which are always the Consequence of a splendid Fortune. But

notwithstanding his being so disinterested, this Minister had the same

Fate as all that have the Management of the Finances, not to be belov'd:

And tho' when he first came to the Direction of the Finances, he found

them in a very bad State, no Allowance was made him upon that Score, but

an Account was demanded from him of the Wealth which others had

squander'd.

_M. de Castelar_ was Secretary at War, and had been just preferr'd to that

Employment as I arriv'd at _Madrid_. He is the civillest Minister I ever

knew: And tho' he had such a Weight of Affairs upon him, he had an easy

Air, which was a Pleasure to all that had any Business with him. He had

another Quality, not very common to Gentlemen in the Ministry, which was

to keep no body in Suspence; for People very soon knew what they had to

trust to: And whether 'twas a Grant or a Refusal, they were equally

satisfy'd with the Minister, who gave with Pleasure, and never refus'd a

Request but when 'twas not in his Power to grant it.

These, _Madame_, were the Ministers then employ'd in the several Offices.

At that time there was no Prime Minister in _Spain_; for, after Cardinal

_Alberoni_'s Disgrace, the King manag'd Affairs himself, or rather the

Queen govern'd as the real Sovereign. But as great as her Sway was, she

had much ado to get the better of the King's Confessor, who had a great

Share in all Affairs. This was the famous Father _Daubanton_, a Jesuit,

who had an Ascendant over the King to such a Degree, that nothing of

Moment was transacted without his Opinion. He was therefore, in Reality,

the Prime Minister of _Spain_; at least he only wanted the Title, for he

perform'd the Functions of such a one, but without the Wit, the Finesse,

and the Policy of the disgrac'd Minister; for he was severe, merciless,

and so hard-hearted, that when he saw Officers reduc'd to the last

Extremity for want of their Pay, it gave him no Disturbance. To him I

apply'd, as every body else did, to beg the Honour of his Protection; and

when I came near him, I found him a haughty proud Man, and one that was

extremely rigid. 'Tis true, that when he had to do with Persons from whom

he expected any Services, all this Stateliness was laid aside; he was then

quite another Man: And was so perfect a Matter of the Art of dissembling,

that Civility, Good-nature, and Humility seem'd painted so strongly in his

Features, as would induce one to think nothing could be more sincere, and

that this external Appearance was the pure Expression of his secret

Thoughts. The _Roman_ Purple was, they say, the Centre of all his Views;

and, being wholly ambitious of this Dignity, he thought every Measure

equally right that had a Tendency to a red Hat. Cardinal _Alberoni_

wheedled him with the Hopes of it one while, just to get some Services of

him that he then stood in need of. The Regent of _France_ also gave him a

Prospect of it, as a Reward that he might infallibly depend on, if he

could prevail on his Catholic Majesty to sign the Treaty of the Quadruple

Alliance. This Jesuit set heartily about it, and succeeded; but the Hat,

so much aspir'd after, was given to another; and all the Thanks that the

Reverend Father had for his Pains, was an Abbey for one pf his Nephews.

Something offer'd before I left _Spain_, which will give me occasion to

speak to you of this Cardinal again.

Cardinal _Borgia_ was also in very high Favour, but a wrong Person to

apply to for Services; which indeed was owing to his Indolence more than

any other Reason; for, as to a friendly Temper, I do not think there ever

was a Man who possess'd that Virtue in a more eminent Degree. He was

withal very devout, but was reckon'd so unlearned, that I have been

assur'd he did not know a word of _Latin_; and upon this Head I heard the

following Story, which I do not retail to you for Gospel. I was told, that

when the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, was preparing

to make this Cardinal a Visit, he was appris'd that his Eminency did not

understand _French_. The Ambassador thought it would do every whit as well

if he convers'd with him in _Latin_, and therefore he greeted him in that

Language; but he found, to his great Surprize, that the Prelate made

Answer to him in _Spanish_, that he did not understand the _French_

Tongue; and somebody, who was present at the Audience, telling the

Cardinal, that the Ambassador spoke to him not in _French_ but in

_Latin_, the Cardinal said, _Aye, but I do not understand Latin-French_:

So that there was a Necessity of carrying on the Conversation by an

Interpreter.

Tho' the Characters of the Ministers and Favourites were so different,

there was a Necessity of my conforming to them all, in Hopes that the

Steps I had taken would not be in vain. I took great Care therefore to see

them all, to desire them to speak in my Favour. Whether they did so, I

know not; nor whether the little Ray of Fortune which began to shine upon

me, but soon vanish'd, was the Effect of their Recommendations, or to an

Impression I had made upon the King's Heart, by the Narrative I had given

him of the State of my Affairs, the Disorder of which had been owing in

the first Place to my changing my Religion, which had forc'd me to quit

the Service of my Sovereign. Be this as it will, I received a very

favourable Answer to the Memorial which I had the Honour of presenting to

the King: He granted me a Lieutenant-Colonel's Commission in the future

Regiment of _Sicily_, together with the _Soldo vivo_, which amounted to

about Sixteen Pistoles a Month. What they call the _Soldo vivo_ in _Spain_

is, when the same Pay is advanc'd as if the Corps was actually on an

Establishment or Footing. I thought this very handsome Pay, and that my

Affairs were already in a promising way. I found that with such a Sum an

Officer might maintain himself very well in his Quarters. I actually

form'd Schemes for a Settlement; and, having paid dear for my Folly, I

began to talk of House-keeping. I computed, that with what would now be my

Income from _Spain_, and what was to revert to me from my own Family, I

should be able to repair my tatter'd Equipage, and to appear in a decent

Manner, till such time as Fortune, which now began to be something kinder

than usual, had put me in a Condition to make the Figure I aspir'd to.

As soon as the King had admitted me into his Service, I did not fail to

wait on him with my most humble Acknowledgments: I had also the Honour of

thanking the Queen, to whom I made my Compliment in _High-Dutch_, and that

Princess return'd me her Answer in the same Language. Soon after this I

set out for _Arragon_, where the Regiment in which I was to serve was then

in Quarters. But as I came into _Spain_ with very little Money, I was soon

oblig'd to return to _Madrid_, to desire some small Gratuity, till I

receiv'd my Pay. Some of my Friends advis'd me to ask boldly for a

handsome round Sum, or for a Pension upon Benefices; because if I depended

on my Pay for Subsistance, I should be very much out in my Reckoning; that

in _Spain_, more than elsewhere, they were backward in their Pay, and

always one Year in Arrear, and sometimes two or three, according as they

dun the Minister, or dawb the Treasurer's Fist. This News put me a little

out of Temper, and from that time I began to perceive that Fortune would

jilt me as much in _Spain_ as she had done elsewhere: Nevertheless, my

Courage did not quite fail me, I apply'd to the Secretary at War, who

referred me to Father _Daubanton_, and the latter told me, with all the

Solemnity that could be, that 'twas none of his Business. You see,

_Madame_, that this was a fine Setting out: However, I was not

dishearten'd: And being so much us'd as I was to Rebuffs, I had as lieve

be deny'd twice as once. I rapp'd at various Doors, but they were all

either shut against me, or, if open'd, 'twas to no Purpose. I resolv'd to

address myself immediately to the King, and had the Honour of presenting a

Petition to him, in which I gave him an Account of my present Situation:

1st, By the Disaster of the Bank Bills; and, 2dly, by the strange

Procedure of the King's Lieutenant at _Bayonne_. The King, when he took my

Petition, answer'd, _I will consider it._ It must be observ'd, that the

King was then at _Aranjuez_, for which Reason there was no Minister with

him but _M. de Grimaldo_. This was the Minister to whom the other

Secretaries of War and the Finances, and the President of the Council of

_Castile_, were oblig'd to address their Dispatches, which was some

Hindrance to Business; but, in short, such is the Practice of the

_Spanish_ Court. For the Councils only attend the King at _Buen Retiro_,

and this because 'tis in _Madrid_ itself; for as soon as the King goes

from his Capital City, all Affairs pass thro' the Hands of a single

Minister.

I waited therefore upon _M. de Grimaldo_, to know the Result of my

Petition. This Minister, according to his laudable Custom, told me, that

the King had a very great Esteem for me: This thread-bare Answer was very

little Comfort to me; and even tho' it were true that his Majesty honour'd

me with his Esteem, I saw plainly that mine was a Situation in which the

Esteem of Princes is mere Whip-Cream, if it be not accompany'd with

something solid. I earnestly press'd _M. de Grimaldo_ that he would be so

kind as to procure me something else besides Esteem. At last, after

several Goings backward and forward, the Minister said to me one Day,

with a Smile, that my Affairs went on swimmingly: I immediately thought my

Business done, and wanted nothing but to know the Value of the Gratuity or

Pension that was granted to me: But there was nothing in it; the good Turn

that my Affairs had taken, was only to be referr'd back again to Father

_Daubanton_. I waited, therefore, on the Reverend Father, and, with all

possible Respect, ask'd him, what was the Effect of a Petition that had

been referr'd to him? And to this humble Request I added another, still

more humble, which was to obtain the Honour of his Protection: But my

Compliment and my Respects were not very welcome, and he answer'd me, very

short: _Do you imagine, Sir, that I have nothing else to do, but to think

of your Petition: I have not yet seen it, Sir, nor do I know whether it

has ever been sent to me._ I reply'd, but still with the profoundest

Respect, that _M. de Grimaldo_ had told me that----_Alas!_ said he,

interrupting me, _M. de Grimaldo! M. de Grimaldo!_ And the Words were no

sooner out of his Mouth, but he whipp'd into his Closet, and slapp'd the

Door in my Face. I saw plainly that the Wind did not sit right for his

Reverence, and therefore lay by till next Day: Then I made up to him again

much about the Time that I knew he us'd to go to the King, and planted

myself in a Nook of his Entry, in the humble Posture of a Supplicant: The

Jesuit, his Companion, seeing me there, desir'd me to walk into the

Antichamber; but I could not be prevail'd on to accept of an Honour which

I said did not belong to me; tho' the Truth was, that I chose to stay in

the Entry, as the surest Place of speaking with the Confessor; for I had

observ'd, that the Reverend Father often put the Bite upon People that

waited for him in the Antichamber, by stealing out at a private Door that

open'd into the Entry where I then was. I stay'd there a full Hour, when,

as I had before imagin'd, I saw my Gentleman slipping out at the private

Door: I accosted him in the Passage, and humbly put him in Mind, that I

had the Honour of speaking to him the Day before: I found him in a little

better Humour than he was then, for he promis'd me that he would speak to

the King, and bid me attend him for the Answer next Day. You will imagine

that I did not fail to be there: He told me then, that he had not an

Opportunity as yet of speaking to the King about my Affair, but that he

would infallibly mention it to him in a few Days: Mean time these Days

amounted insensibly to Weeks, and the Weeks to Months, which had like to

have put me out of all manner of Patience. I could not be reproach'd with

Want of Solicitation, for certainly there was not a Morning but I took my

Walk in the Confessor's Antichamber, where he saw me sure enough, and

would sometimes honour me with a Nod, and at other times with a Frown:

And, in fine, after having so often danc'd Attendance, all I could obtain

was a formal Denial.

I own to you, _Madame_, I was a little stunn'd by this Shock: For I had

neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum,

till I receiv'd a Quarter's Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such

Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was

so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr. _Stanhope_, by the means

of one _Holtzendorff_, that Minister's Secretary, who was a Native of

_Berlin_, and has a Brother a _Valet de Chambre_ to the King of

_Prussia_. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my

Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr.

_Stanhope_ was wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour

with the Confessor, and with _M. Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, who

could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr. _Stanhope_ had no better

Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power,

press'd me to accept of his Table, offer'd me also his Equipage, and

advanc'd me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had

could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to

that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him, _all my Days_ in

Spain _would have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief_[28].

While I lost so much Time in solliciting Father _Daubanton_, I did not

omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only at _Madrid_ but the

Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov'd from time to time. _Madrid_ is,

properly speaking, the Capital City of all _Spain_, and the common

Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of

which was built by the Emperor _Charles_ V. The Inside has been alter'd

for the better, and much embellish'd by _Philip_ V. The Castle is at the

End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this

Court are lin'd with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house

for the _Spanish_ and _Walloon_ Guards, who range themselves in Two Rows

in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family passes thro' it.

At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico's. The Front

of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in

the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each

is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the principal, is very darksome,

and leads into a very spacious Area, arch'd over, where several Coaches

may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the

same Size and Structure, encompass'd with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars,

that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the

Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the

King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers.

The King's Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is

neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very

long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other

Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three

Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of _Ursins_: The first of these

is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion'd, inlaid and

wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of

several Kings, Queens and Princes of _Spain_, painted by the ablest

Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv'd in that Form for the

Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this

Apartment is a Passage to the King's Chamber, which is very large, and

intirely furnish'd with crimson Damask, adorn'd with Gold Lace and Fringe,

tho' the Tapistry can scarce be seen, 'tis so much hid by excellent

Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses.

The Queen's Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King's: Her

Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King's: Their Majesties may

walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly

adorn'd: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which

is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None

but the _Infantes_ fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of _Spain_ are

seated upon Forms, that are plac'd on each Side from the Gallery to the

Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow'd a Great Chair and

a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho' his Majesty be present: At least,

I saw, that the Cardinal _Borgia_ had that Privilege.

In this Palace the King us'd to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then

his Majesty went to the Palace of _Retiro_, which stands near the Gate of

_Alcala_: 'Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or

Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside

too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the

Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the _Spaniards_ are so negligent,

that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to

repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same

Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke of _Feria_,

several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters

to enlarge the Entry of the Room.

The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. _Philip_ V. it seems

intended once to have embellish'd them, and had actually caus'd the Works

for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There's

nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Brass, which is plac'd in

the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall'd in: 'Tis a Statue of _Philip_

II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in _Europe_:

The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only

one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great

Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there:

The King's Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of

very uncommon Animals.

The King and the Queen, whether they are at _Madrid_ or at _Retiro_,

always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and

when the Levee was notify'd, their Majesties did not rise for all that

immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then

some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate:

After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, with whom

they talk'd about Business, after which they arose: Then Father

_Daubanton_ came in, and stay'd with the King a full Hour: His Majesty

went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience

to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of _Castile_: Sometimes he

employ'd himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in

private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out

together a Hunting, and return'd somewhat late: As soon as they were come

back, they were serv'd with a Collation, which consisted of cold

Partridge, of the like to which Collations _M. de Grimaldo_ was admitted:

When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign

Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the

King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the

while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was

said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he

sent for the Marquis _de Castelar_ or _Campoflorido_, who stay'd but Half

an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening

with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and

sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which _M. de Scotti_,

the Minister of _Parma_, and a very great Favourite, was generally

present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from

Table they went to Bed.

The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing,

more gay than those at _Madrid_: I saw the Court more than once at

_Aranjuez_, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either

in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these

Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill

at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King.

While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of

_Asturias_, accompany'd by the _Infante_ his Brother and his Governors,

hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.

The King spent the _Easter_-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of

_Retiro_: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the

Holy Week, which were made upon every _Good-Friday_, to the Palace of

_Retiro_, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of _Asturias_ and the

Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw

any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions:

It seem'd as if they had been resolv'd to turn the most sacred thing in

the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than

the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in

so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz'd, why a Court of

Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary

Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such

Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as

big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited

on Mount _Calvary_, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his

Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach'd forth to him by a

little Angel, that was fasten'd only by a Wire, that it might look as if

it hover'd in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our

Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a

Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder'd, and adorn'd

with a Knot of colour'd Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the

Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in

such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was

guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm'd _cap-a-pie_, and bearing Halberds in

their Hands: Between every Image march'd the Clergy, and the several

Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk'd Men who were

cover'd all over with black Cloth, so that 'twas not possible to see so

much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment

for them to see and breathe thro', tho' they also made Use of it to blow

a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon

their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was

follow'd by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to

the Waist, whose Bodies were twin'd about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms

tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig'd them to hold them extended, as if

they had been fasten'd to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant

Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and

therefore they stay'd and join'd in the Procession, as it came back from

_Buen Retiro_.

There were Processions also in the same Taste during the _Easter_ Week,

when the Holy Sacrament was carry'd to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies

were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry'd

under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who

had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and

a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing

Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they

danc'd before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church,

till such time as the Benediction was pronounc'd.

I speak to you of these Ceremonies, _Madame_, as one that saw them with my

own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty

much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny,

invented to run down the Worship which the Church of _Rome_ pays to the

greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the

Account of it, were _Calvinists_: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness

myself of every thing which I had been assur'd was observ'd in the

Ceremonial of the _Spanish_ Church: For this Reason I attended all these

Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really

scandaliz'd to see that verify'd which I had only imagin'd to be the

Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of _Rome_.

'Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of _Madrid_, that I question

whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those

Superstitions: For this, tho' a very fine City, and adorn'd with Squares,

in which there are noble Fountains, and tho' it has Streets moreover which

are very spacious, strait and lightsome, 'tis nevertheless so very nasty,

that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern'd: From

all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend,

wastes away in one Night's Time, the Air of _Madrid_ is so corrosive: Yet

I experienc'd the contrary, and was terribly annoy'd with the Stench of

it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of _Madrid_ is

nothing in comparison of what one is forc'd to suffer upon the Days of

Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean'd, and then

all the Soil being put in Motion, 'tis hardly possible to bear it,

especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc'd into fine Dust,

the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing

that one eats: I heard an _Italian_ Physician say, he was sure that 'twas

scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir'd, to

spend Three or Four Years at _Madrid_ without being attack'd with a

Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the _Spaniards_ are not at

all frighten'd at it, for they say, that in many Families 'tis hereditary.

The Doctor said, that every thing they breath'd, eat or drank, was

poison'd by the Nastiness of _Madrid_.

What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can't

imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep

the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the

_Spaniards_, for I don't know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love

with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so

fruitful as their's is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter

they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they

sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks

for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur'd to

Labour, are as idle in _Spain_ as the Town's-People: They can hardly be

said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and

then scatter their Seed: Yet 'tis surprizing, that every thing comes up

here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.

The _Spaniards_ being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour,

delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where

they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at _Madrid_: Yet I

can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the _Spanish_

Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: 'Tis

very dark, and over the Benches which are plac'd in Form of an

Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro' Grates. The

Theatre is made after the manner of _Rome_, being a Row of Portico's, that

are screen'd by Curtains, thro' which the Comedians enter upon the Stage:

The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more

than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I

enter'd the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want

of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of

it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress'd, and for the Generality

very ill favour'd, or ill shap'd: The Actresses are more tolerable, but

not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the

_Spaniards_ say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me

was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to

meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances

are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a

Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament

administer'd at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can't

imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can

tolerate such Abuses.

Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity

of this Tribunal while I was in _Spain_: For not many Days after my

Arrival at _Madrid_, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of

Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18

or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in _Spain_: She went to

her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy'd with the

Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this

Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over _Spain_: Above 40

Persons were taken up in one Night at _Madrid_, and among the rest one

_Peralte_, a famous Physician, who seem'd to have been fated by his Star

to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she

was deliver'd of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young _Peralte_

was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was

accus'd, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only

Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time,

and after I left _Madrid_, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in

which the Prayers of his Mother were answer'd, for I was assur'd, that

when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray'd that her Son might

one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at

_Madrid_ at the time of this _Peralte_'s Execution, for I had some

Knowledge of him, and tho' he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him

one of the civillest Men in the World.

I did not set out from _Madrid_ to join my Regiment, but went a quite

different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to

come at in _Spain_: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I

don't believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity

as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father

Confessor's Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if

he would but have honour'd me with it: I was therefore every Day either in

the King's Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father's, if not in both; and I

follow'd the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about _Madrid_: I saw the

Escurial, a stately Building, which _Philip_ II. caus'd to be erected in

Memory of the Victory he gain'd over the _French_ near _St. Quentin_: 'Tis

impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. _Philip_ II. intended at

first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he

thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of

the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of _Spain_ are bury'd:

The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of

Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones.

_Philip_ V. was at this time building a Palace, now call'd _St.

Ildephonso_, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of

it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish'd with noble Gardens.

The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in _Spain_ is

_Aranjuez_, situate Seven Leagues from _Madrid_, on the Banks of the

_Tagus_, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very

magnificent: _Charles_ V. caus'd Avenues to be made to it, which are now

in their full Beauty: 'Twas at _Aranjuez_ that I determin'd at last to

take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of

getting any thing, I resolv'd to go to _Holland_, and from thence to

_Germany_, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I

should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable

to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should

change my Religion, till Father _Daubanton_, who was not so delicate in

things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he

consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv'd from

that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order'd me to

return as soon as possible, which I promis'd, and really design'd; but

Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite

contrary Course. Mr. _Stanhope_, who was always as generous to me as

possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me

40 Pistoles for my Journey.

I set out from _Madrid_ in Company with a Nephew of _M. de Seissan_, who

was going to see his Uncle at _Bilbao_: The Name of this young Gentleman

was the Baron _D'V----_: It was not long before I had cause to repent of

having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young

Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the

least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid,

that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he

very often imagin'd, that he was insulted when People had been at the

Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, _Madame_, is a Part of the

Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so

apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that

it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for

as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I

perceiv'd at a Distance Four Men well arm'd, advancing towards us in the

main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis'd my

Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well

prepar'd, let us pass, but as we both took them for _Frenchmen_, the Baron

_D'V----_ would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them,

and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were _French_

Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked

in their Turn what News from _Madrid_; during which I observ'd that they

were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the

Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste

possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers

doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we

discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several

Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner

perceiv'd them, but they turn'd about their Horses, and rode off with such

Speed, as confirm'd me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking

with Highwaymen; which soon after appear'd to be past all Doubt by our

meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the

Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description

they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil'd

with.

Upon the second Day's Journey my Companion and I had some Words together

about paying our Quota's: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time

never car'd to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal

enough, and refus'd at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply'd at

last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one

kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own

Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent

as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere

I awak'd we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open'd his Lips

till we came to _Burgos_.

* * * * *

BURGOS is the Capital of _Old Castile_, and was formerly the Seat of the

Kings of _Spain_: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square,

surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which

form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent

Structure, but intirely in the _Gothic_ Taste.

Near _Burgos_ is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as

all the Convents of _Spain_ have considerable Revenues: The Country from

_Burgos_ to _Vittoria_ is finer and better cultivated than in _New

Castile_, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so

active to what the _Spaniards_ generally are, that I thought myself in

another World.

* * * * *

VITTORIA is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages:

The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber,

project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may

almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the

Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen _Mary-Louisa_

of _Savoy_ retir'd with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when

the Archduke _Charles_ the present Emperor, after the Battle of

_Saragossa_ advanc'd towards _Madrid_, and thereby oblig'd King _Philip_

to quit _Spain_.

We lodg'd at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than

we had yet met with any where in _Spain_: But when we came to pay, behold

another new Scene! for my Part, I pay'd my Share without grumbling,

because I always observ'd, that make never so many Words it must come to

that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part

of the Reckoning, I stay'd but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I

had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in

the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much

astonish'd to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or

Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down

Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches

of those Termagants, and 'twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch'd

up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I

parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify'd: What gave

Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron's Refusal to pay what was demanded

of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The

Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz'd him by the Collar, and

he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the

Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had

receiv'd; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.

At _Vittoria_ we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad

Roads we were to go thro' to _Bilbao_, in a Country abounding with Hills

and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret,

which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly

surrounded by 7 or 8 arm'd Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians:

They ask'd us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company:

I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of

Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret,

and accordingly I order'd the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for

the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten'd them; however, they

soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our

Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we

came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As

it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough

for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming

Valley, which, after having travell'd Three or Four Leagues in it, carry'd

us to _Bilbao_: This Valley is water'd by a River, the Banks of which are

lin'd with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is

extremely populous, so that one can't go 200 Paces without coming to a

House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their

Iron for the best in all _Spain_.

* * * * *

BILBAO is the Capital of _Biscay_, and the prettiest Town that I saw in

_Spain_: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a

great Trade in Wool with _Holland_, _England_ and _France_, and there are

commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was

formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its

Trade; but _Philip_ V. suppress'd that Franchise, and establish'd a

Custom-house, which occasion'd a very great Disturbance. The

Country-People, who were those that signaliz'd themselves most for the

Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag'd several of the

Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill'd

several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had

any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the

Insurrection was quickly suppress'd, the Authors of the Tumult were

seiz'd, and several of the most mutinous were hang'd, which Examples of

Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with

very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have

depriv'd them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too,

as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For

Instance, A Native of _Biscay_ cannot be sentenc'd to Death for any Crime

whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how

enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys.

_Catalonia_ formerly enjoy'd the same Privileges, till it was depriv'd of

them by _Philip_ V. when he reduc'd that Province.

Near _Bilbao_ on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has

been mightily inrich'd by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to

it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing

struck me more than the High Altar: 'Tis only of Wood indeed, without

Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may

be look'd upon as Art's Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made

this curious Piece of Work, was accus'd of Judaism, and burnt for it, some

time after he had finish'd it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought

to have pardon'd him, purely for his Ingenuity.

I stay'd longer at _Bilbao_ than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of

finding some Vessel that was going to _Holland_; but at last being tir'd

with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of _Bilbao_ that was bound

for _London_, by which means I had a Sight of _England_ sooner than I

expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Passage, that the Sixth

Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in LONDON[29].

* * * * *

All the Places we pass'd by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect

beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene

in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and

down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of the _Thames_, cover'd

with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the

Riches of _England_: I was pleas'd to see the noble Foundery of Cannon,

Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King's Ships, whereof I saw

several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so

wealthy a Nation as the _English_. I was above all surpriz'd at the Bulk

of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes

on board of when _England_ sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the

_Thames_ also, before one comes to _London_, we see a magnificent Building

for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King's Yatchs,

which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to _Holland_, when he

repairs to his _German_ Dominions: The King's Yatch is very large, and

richly carv'd and gilt: From this Place to _London-Bridge_ is nothing to

be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides

of the River are lin'd with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent

Shew: I fancy that 'tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual

Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of

_London_, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and

Ebb, to which it is expos'd, ought really to be reckon'd one of the

principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means

answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the

Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a

bad Prospect.

I went ashore near _Whitehall_, which was formerly a magnificent Palace,

and the Residence of the Kings of _England_, but had the Misfortune to be

consum'd by Fire in the Reign of _William_ III. and _Mary_: What remains

of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture,

which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. 'Twas at

_Whitehall_ that the unfortunate _Charles_ I. was beheaded, and in the

Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro' which that

Prince pass'd to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.

The Palace of _Whitehall_ faces _St. James_'s Park, which is the same to

_London_ as the _Thuilleries_ are to _Paris_, tho' the former is much more

frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the

Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company,

Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer'd to walk here as well as

Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble

Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good

Order, and especially that call'd the _Mall_, which is the longest of all:

On the Right Hand of this Walk going from _Whitehall_ stands _St. James_'s

Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of _England_:

'Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still

very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards

about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a

Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on _St. James_'s

Side, and the other towards _Whitehall_, and at each there attends a

Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are

Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of _Great

Britain_'s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper

Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those

who are admitted being oblig'd to bring Certificates of their Service:

They are distinguish'd by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards,

the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth

lac'd with Gold at all the Seams, and fac'd with blue: They are always

booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots

till they are reliev'd. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of

the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the

Order of the Garter embroider'd on the Front with Gold and Silver. The

Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress'd after the

antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King's Livery, which is of

blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of

black Velvet, adorn'd with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red

Cloaths with blue Facings: This, _Madame_, was what I observ'd when I made

my Entrance into _London_.

I steer'd my Course to _St. Anne_'s Quarter, where I had a Direction to

some honest _French_ Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some

Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and

his _German_ Court had been so prejudic'd against me by _Madamoiselle de

Pollnitz_, that 'twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his

Majesty. The Princess of _Wales_ was concern'd at my Situation, and so

good as to make me a Present, but the _Germans_ who were at Court were,

like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with

keeping no Company but the _English_, of whom I met with several that I

had seen in _France_, and with whom I renew'd my Acquaintance: They us'd

me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the

several Quarters of _London_, where there was any thing worth seeing: They

first shew'd me _St. Paul_'s Cathedral, which, next to _St. Peter_'s at

_Rome_, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in _Europe_: It was

begun after the great Fire of _London_, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. and

not finish'd till the Reign of Queen _Anne_: The Outside of the Structure

is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is

the Statue of Queen _Anne_ on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which

is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life,

dress'd in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the

other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac'd are of

Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have

been expected from a Nation so famous as the _English_ for their elegant

Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some

other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of _St. Paul_'s Church, which did

not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much

too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated

from the Body of the Church by a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate,

over which the Organs are plac'd to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I

take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir

is the Communion-table, fenc'd round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon

the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the

Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is rais'd some Steps above the Ground;

and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round

the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and

there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body:

The Preacher's Pulpit, which is plac'd in the middle of the Choir, is a

plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so

contriv'd, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up

to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat

like to that of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is for the Bishop of

_London_.

From _St. Paul_'s I went to see _Westminster_-Abbey, which being in a Part

of the Town at a good Distance from _St. Paul_'s, oblig'd me to take a

Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at _London_; but being made

without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent

Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses,

which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon

being the worst in _Europe_, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make

Use of this Equipage, as I experienc'd in my Jaunt to the Abbey of

_Westminster_. This is the Church in which the Kings of _England_ are

consecrated and interr'd: 'Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other

Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which

are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but

of these there are few worthy of Remark: 'Twas in this Church I saw that

call'd _St. Edward_'s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and

they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are

seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is

a Press, wherein is preserv'd in Waxwork the Effigy of General _Monk_,

who, after the Death of _Cromwell_, restor'd _Charles_ II. to the Throne

of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in

Waxwork, which represents _Charles_ II. himself as big as the Life,

dress'd in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also

saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess of _Richmond_, in her Habit as

Duchess.

In this Church I met With an _English_ Gentleman, an old Friend of mine,

who carry'd me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that

very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long

there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon

his Head: As I was inform'd his Stay there would be short, I went out, and

plac'd myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go

into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and

preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the

Crown: The King of _England_ never rides with this Attendance, but when he

goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry'd in a Sedan, with

Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard,

by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting

commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses:

The Prince and Princess of _Wales_ are attended, when they go out, much in

the same manner: I observ'd a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King

and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, _viz_. That

when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black

Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.

After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din'd with my Lord ----,

whose Brother I had seen in _Spain_: There I spent the Afternoon, and at

Night he carry'd me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas'd, not only

with the Performers, who were the best Voices in _Europe_, but with the

Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill'd; yet, for all that,

I don't think it comes up to the Opera at _Paris_; for this at _London_ is

quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill

executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The

Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the _French_ Actors;

but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the _French_ alone may

boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The _English_ Stage has another

Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing

of Chorus's, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue,

'tis generally compos'd of People that they pick up where they can get

them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus'd: The Place

where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: 'Tis small, but very lofty, and

I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even

those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre,

which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every

body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that

it dazzles one's Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of

the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a

Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers'd

all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.

Some Days after this I went to the _English_ Comedy: I shall say nothing

of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the

Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it:

The Actors seem'd to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their

Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any

that appear to better Advantage.

The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts. · 第 21 / 68 题

In Travelling from _Pau_ to BAYONNE 'twas plain that we were got out of