The little Prospect I had of obtaining a_The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

_England_, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc'd me to think of

departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours

about the City of _London_, in order to see what was most worthy of

Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City

I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been

spoil'd by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within

into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no

Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except

a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke

of _Montague_'s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court

before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers

the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the

nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents _Phaeton_ asking Leave of the Sun to

drive his Chariot, and the Fall of _Phaeton_ is describ'd at the Entrance

of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each

Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish'd.

I went afterwards to see my Lord _Marlborough_'s House, which is very

magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof

the greatest Number was by _Vandyke_: After having in like manner taken a

View of several other great Houses, of which I don't undertake to give a

Description, I was shew'd a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass'd the

famous Pillar of _Trajan_: 'Twas the _Monument_, erected in Memory of the

terrible Fire that happen'd at _London_, soon after the Restoration of

_Charles_ II. to the Throne of _England_: 'Tis pity but this Pillar had

more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is

the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There's a _Latin_

Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune:

In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out

in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all

_London_ there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive

Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of _St. Paul_'s.

Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call'd the _Royal

Exchange_, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two

o'clock: 'Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front

is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass'd

with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture:

In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of _Charles_ II. who is represented

standing upright, and dress'd in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over

the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of _England_,

which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish,

rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another

Statue of _Charles_ II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble,

but so ill perform'd, that I believe it would have been better if it had

never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of _Charles_ I. erected betwixt

the _Haymarket_ and _Whitehall_, which is all of Brass, is much better

executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the

boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that

cast the Horse of _Henry_ IV. at _Paris_; but the Statue of the King was

done by another Hand: _Cromwell_, who had no Respect for the Blood of his

Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv'd, but caus'd it to be

pull'd down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist,

purchas'd it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he

had it brought Home, he caus'd it to be bury'd under Ground, where it

remain'd till _Charles_ II. was restor'd to the Throne, and then he made a

Present of it to that Prince, who caus'd it to be erected on that Pedestal

of white Marble which we now see.

A little Distance from the _Exchange_ is the famous Tower of _London_,

which is of the same Use to this City as the _Bastille_ is to _Paris_,

with this Difference however, that 'tis not so easy for a King of

_England_ to store it, as it is for a King of _France_ to fill the

_Bastille_: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form'd of a Number

of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is

the best furnish'd, and kept in the best Condition of any in _Europe_: In

this Tower are also preserv'd the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The

principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of _Edward the Confessor_, with which

the Kings of _England_ are crown'd: 'Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds

and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears

when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a

Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated:

After I had seen this Crown, I was shew'd that which serv'd for the

Coronation of Q. _Mary_, the Daughter of _James_ II. 'Tis cover'd all over

with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the

Prince of _Wales_'s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels;

and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I

don't pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the

Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv'd, to prevent their

being stole; for they are only seen thro' a large Iron Grate, so strong,

that it would be a hard Matter to force it.

After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry'd into another Room, where I

saw all the Statues of the Kings of _England_, from _William the

Conqueror_, Duke of _Normandy_, to _James_ II. They are represented in

Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour'd, which makes

them frightful Objects.

As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I

chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or

two of the Character of the _English_ People: I thought _Englishmen_ were

much the same in their own Country as the _French_ are out of _France_,

that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough;

and in like manner they are when abroad, what the _French_ are in their

own Country, good-natur'd, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the

_Italians_ were most esteem'd in _England_, the _French_ and _Germans_

being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the _Germans_ is of no

older Date than the Reign of the Elector of _Hanover_; for till then the

_English_ look'd upon us as if they neither lov'd nor envy'd us, but now

they have a Notion, that the Money of _England_ goes over to _Germany_;

and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call'd the House of

_Hanover_ to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the _French_, 'tis of

a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine

the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the

Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article

of Dress; when the _French_ wear little Hats, the _English_ wear theirs

with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in

_France_, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too

narrow; and 'tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their

Dress; so that I am persuaded, the _English_ would soon quit any Fashion,

were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the _French_ thought fit to

follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as

well as the _French_, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are

remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short,

there's not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the

_English_ do, and really they had need to be as well-shap'd as they are

for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.

The _English_ Women are also perfectly well-shap'd, and are for most part

pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han't the

Art of Dress; and tho' they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet

they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour'd to

disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put

on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos'd before,

and on each Side there is a Slit, thro' which they put their Arms: They

have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the

Chin with a colour'd Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex,

for 'tis very often us'd by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also

much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their

Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg'd on board certain Wherries,

that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design'd for such Interviews;

the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover'd with

scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us'd to the

Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of _Venice_.

That amiable Freedom which reigns in _England_ gives the People an Air of

Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility,

the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and

whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to

Pleasures, the _English_ Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the

Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when

he has done his Day's Work. The _English_ are very much for Shows; Battles

especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and

of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other

Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly

heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of _England_

are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which

there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and

when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that

one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are

exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten'd to

their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The

_English_, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form

themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants;

and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers;

for, it must be observ'd, there is no Nation in the World so fond of

laying Wagers as the _English_.

The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in _England_,

there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for

pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each

other cruelly: The _English_ delight very much in this sort of

Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds

his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake

Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don't bear one another

any Malice: I can't conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an

Exercise; the rather, because 'tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for

they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the

Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang'd without

Mercy.

There's another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the

Summer in a Square near _St. James_'s, with no other Weapons but

Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another's

Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally

regal'd by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have

been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour'd to throw

one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp'd up his Adversary's

Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these

Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the

Honour to tell you.

After having seen every thing at _London_ worth a Stranger's Curiosity, I

was prevail'd on, before I left _England_, to go and take a View of the

Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw _Hampton Court_ and _Windsor_, which

are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal

Palaces of _France_: _Kensington_ Palace pleas'd me well enough: 'Tis a

House that formerly belong'd to an _English_ Nobleman, of whom King

_William_ bought it, because 'twas so near _London_: They were making some

Alterations at it when I was there: The King's Apartment is very spacious,

but not the most magnificent, and 'tis adorn'd with some Paintings by

_Vandyke_, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents

King _Charles_ I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her

Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than

these Two Pieces are. _Kensington_ Gardens would be very fine for a

private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat

more magnificent.

Having finish'd my Travels in _England_, where I stay'd near a Month, with

a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark'd for _Holland_; but had not a quick

Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz'd us at Sea, so that we could

neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had

left _London_, we arriv'd in the Mouth of the _Maese_, where we bore a

hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the

_Maese_, and by Noon came to _Rotterdam_, from whence I set out the same

Day for the HAGUE.

* * * * *

As soon as I arriv'd there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and

refitting my Equipage. Tho' all this would not come to a great deal, yet

being then very short of Money, I was forc'd to go a borrowing: I

therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity

which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar'd one Third with my

Brother, and _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_. As my Brother and I were Minors

when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ being

the eldest of the Family, qualify'd herself to receive it: She was first

paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us

our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My

Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them,

but, for their greater Security, they desir'd me to make myself sure and

certain that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ would punctually pay them: I wrote

immediately, and desir'd them to write to her likewise; but as my good

Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in

the Expedient I had contriv'd to raise Money: Instead of doing me the

Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them

to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no

Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it

was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and

imagin'd that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them,

and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip:

I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that

_Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ had conceal'd the Truth from them, on Purpose

to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the

Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer'd to pay them out of the

Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify'd nothing;

their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv'd, in order to secure

their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one _Sunday_

Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour'd Companions, who desir'd me to

remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the _Hague_, if I did not like

to be carry'd thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit,

and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time

too, when _Madame Pyll_, a Tradeswoman at the _Hague_, to whom I was

already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay

my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those

impertinent Fellows.

Not many Days after this happen'd, other Creditors being inform'd of it,

imagin'd that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take

the same Course with me, and they also resolv'd to arrest me: Accordingly,

Notice was brought to me at 6 o'Clock in the Morning, that 'twas

apprehended there was a Design form'd against me, and that some Serjeants

were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing

more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing

myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People

stirring at the _Hague_ at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my

Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear _Madame Pyll_: I

could have wish'd this good Woman would have once more pacify'd those

ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and

only desir'd she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she

granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my

Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform'd where I was harbour'd, were

actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help'd me to slip out

at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up,

I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the _Hague_: I put

myself on board the _Delft_ Passage-Boat, and went in quest of _Texera_, a

rich _Portuguese_, who had a House half a League from the _Hague_. We were

such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the

Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he

advanc'd me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to _Honslaerdyk_,

where I stay'd Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen'd to be one that

was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was

capable of, and went and acquainted _Pyll_ where I was; upon which she

came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider'd what I had to

do next: I had a great mind to return to the _Hague_, to treat with the

Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I

had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv'd to go

to _Germany_, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for

the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to

_Berlin_; tho' why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew

not.

I went the Road to _Aix la Chapelle_, in Hopes that I should there find

the Count _de L----_, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He

was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur'd that he

was in waiting about _Aix_. The first Day I went to _Dort_, and from

thence to BOIS LE DUC.

This is a pretty considerable Place in _Dutch Brabant_: 'Tis encompass'd

all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several

Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in _Europe_:

'Twas _Henry_ of _Brabant_ that gave it the Name of _Bois le Duc_, or

_Bolduc_, i. e. the _Duke's Wood_, because he directed the Building of it

in 1171, in the same Place where he caus'd a Wood to be cut down.

At _Bois le Duc_ I went into the _Diligence_, which is the Name of the

Stage-Coach that goes to MASTRICHT: I made an Acquaintance in it with an

_English_ Gentleman that was going to _Aix la Chapelle_, to make use of

the Waters: He came directly from _England_, and being, as 'tis probable,

over-burden'd with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against

the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little

Adventure he was engag'd in at _Mastricht_ alter'd his Opinion: He went

out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to

take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very

amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter'd into a

Conversation: After having parley'd with her some time, he offer'd to wait

upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted

of his Proposal: My _Englishman_ thought himself a happy Mortal, and the

Damsel appear'd so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg'd her Permission when

he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had

empty'd some Bottles, and the _Englishman_ was ready to take his Leave, he

threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel

demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it

with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to

discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid

more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call'd the

Landlady, who fell upon the poor _Englishman_ like a mad Woman: These Two

were join'd by a Third Fury, who all together pummell'd the _Englishman_

soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn'd him out of Doors without so much as

giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain'd as hard as

it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way

to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had

forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg'd: At last,

being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it

into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return

but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz'd by the

Patroll, who carry'd him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the

Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur'd Man, for he had the Patience to

hear him give a very confus'd Description of the Inn, of which he had

absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several

other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess'd pretty near

where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given

him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several

Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have

been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the

_Englishman_ had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about

in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the

_Englishman_'s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried

him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very

disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon

as I had supp'd, and the _Englishman_ being to lie in my Chamber, his

Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb'd me sadly; for when he saw

'twas late, and that his Master was not return'd, he came every

now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak'd me to know what he should do; so

that, to get rid of him, I advis'd him at last to turn out, and look for

him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc'd to undergo the

Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a

terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he

propos'd to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the

House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger,

thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones

after so much Fatigue.

* * * * *

We set out next Day for _Aix la Chapelle_; but the Count _de L----_ whom I

thought to have found there, was at that time in the _Palatinate_, and

therefore having nothing to do at _Aix_, I took Leave of my _Englishman_,

and proceeded in my Journey towards _Cologne_: As soon as I came thither,

I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push'd on, and was preparing to go

up the _Rhine_, but when I came to ANDERNACH, a little Town in the

Dominions of _Cologne_, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely

oblig'd to stop: Mean time my Fever prov'd a continual one, and I was in a

Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House

where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from

_Andernach_, upon which I jogg'd on thither as well as I could, and in a

Fortnight's time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos'd going

towards _Mentz_, but when I came to _Coblentz_, I found myself worse than

ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return'd down the

_Rhine_, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur'd

me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my

Mind so much, that I imagin'd I should never be cur'd where I was: I had

withal conceiv'd such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no

longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy'd that a Physician of _Cologne_,

whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was

wonderfully impatient to go to _Cologne_; and notwithstanding all the

Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was

then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark'd in

a Vessel, and went down the _Rhine_: When I arriv'd at _Cologne_, I put

myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such

an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it

was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever

visibly diminish'd, and at last quite left me.

When I was perfectly recover'd, I went up the _Rhine_ again to _Mentz_,

where I hop'd to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at

their Estate in _Franconia_: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex'd me

very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to _Zell_,

where my Brother liv'd, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going

to _Hanover_: From _Hanover_ I went to _Zell_, where I heard that my

Brother was at _Berlin_, and I resolv'd to advance that way; but lest I

might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of _Berlin_, I

repair'd to _Leipsic_, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things

went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me

Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain'd

under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to

obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see

how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless _Madamoiselle de

Pollnitz_, to whom my Estate was entail'd, would consent to it: He

concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out

of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of _Prussia_. I

knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to

bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not

permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to

leave no Stone unturn'd this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho' I

had been deny'd it several times. I resolv'd to implore the Protection of

the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_, who had always given me Proofs of his

Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters.

* * * * *

I went therefore to DESSAU, which is but Six Leagues from _Leipsick_: At

that time none were there but the Princesses, for the Prince had been

absent several Days, and was not expected till the Night following: I

wrote to _Madame_ the Duchess of _Radzivil_, the Eldest of the Princesses,

to desire that she would stand my Friend with the Prince her Brother: This

Princess was so good as to send me one of her Officers to assure me that

she would do every thing in her Power to prevail on the Prince to protect

me; and she even desir'd me to write a Letter to the Prince, which she

promis'd me to deliver to him with her own Hands: I laid hold on the

Princess's kind Offer, sent her the Letter she desired of me, and as soon

as the Prince was return'd, she had the Goodness to deliver it to him: I

hop'd to carry all my Points after such a Recommendation; yet so far was I

from seeing the Effect which I expected, that the Prince desir'd his

Sister to engage me to make the best of my way out of _Dessau_, because if

I staid there any longer, he should be oblig'd to put me under an Arrest:

The Duchess, when she sent me this Message, was so kind as to sweeten it

with one of the civillest Compliments that could be, and made me an Offer

of Money, imagining, to be sure, that in the Condition I was in, I might

have need of it: I most humbly thank'd her for all the Marks of Kindness

with which she was pleas'd to honour me, and desir'd her to be assur'd,

that I would that Instant pray Obedience to the Prince's Orders: And

indeed, as I knew that with this Prince Execution follow'd close at the

Heels of his Menaces, I speedily made an Enquiry for a Coach to carry me

to _Barbi_, which is the Residence of a Duke of _Saxony_ of the Branch of

_Weissenfels_, where I hop'd to meet with a Friend of mine, who was in

that Prince's Service; but 'twas impossible for me to find either Horse or

Coach in all _Dessau_, for nobody would stir by reason of the Sacredness

of the Day, it being the Fourth _Sunday_ in _Advent_: Mean time, as I

still dreaded the Prince's Anger, I resolv'd to set out on Foot: I made a

Man shoulder my Portmanteau, which was then all my Equipage, and went

with him to a little Town in the Duchy of _Magdebourg_, where I took a

Chaise that carry'd me to BARBI.

* * * * *

I there found the Friend that I wanted, who receiv'd me as well as I could

wish: This was the late Baron _de Chalisac_ whom you knew; but he did not

fail to chide me a little, for letting my Affairs run into such Confusion;

and advis'd me to go to my Brother, and concert proper Measures with him

for the Advantage of both of us: He also lent me 40 Crowns for my Journey:

I spent the _Christmas_-Holidays with him, during which he heard, that my

Brother was return'd to ZELL: I was very glad of this News, and next Day

after the Holidays I set out to meet him: I found him in a very good

Humour with me: He convinc'd me, that I had Reason to suspect my Steward,

and advis'd me at the same time to turn him off, and to take his in his

Room, whom he knew to be honest: I gave him full Power to examine my

Steward's Accompts, and he made it out as clear as the Sun at Noon-day,

that I had been bubbled: My Brother, in order to oblige me thoroughly,

help'd me to some Money, and moreover, put my Affairs in such a State,

that my Creditors might not only be satisfy'd in a little time, but I had

something left over-and-above to subsist me.

My Affairs being thus settled, I had nothing to think of now but which way

to steer my Course, to the end it might be said at least, that I had some

sort of Business or other: I could have lik'd the Service well enough, but

there was no War, nor none like to be very soon: Moreover, I had paid my

Court with so little Success to different Sovereigns, that indeed I was

under no Temptation to enter the Lists again: I might indeed have

return'd to _Spain_, where I had obtain'd an Employ, but what signify'd

it, where the Salaries are not paid, and the Establishment obliges one to

spend high? This Fluctuation of different Ideas puzzled me the more,

because which way soever I look'd, I saw nothing but Difficulty, and not

the least Glimpse of any other Condition that I could embrace: One Friend

advis'd me to take Orders in the Church, which was a Proposition that I

thought at first a little extraordinary; yet when I had seriously

consider'd the Matter, I judg'd it would not be so wrong a Step as I

imagin'd; that sooner or later I should not fail of having some

Preferment: In a Word, a Number of temporal Motives gave Birth to a

Project in my Mind, which ought only to have been the Effect of a

Spiritual Call: I was advis'd first of all to make my Court to the

Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was at _Ratisbon_: This Prince, who from a

_Lutheran_ turn'd _Roman-Catholic_, was very fond of new Converts.

I went therefore to find out his Eminency at _Ratisbon_: My Brother

accompany'd me as far as _Brunswick_, where we stay'd some Days, after

which he took Leave of me, and return'd to _Zell_; and I for my Part went

to _Barbi_, to see the Baron _de Chalisac_ to whom I gave an Account of

the Settlement I had made with my Brother, and of my Resolution to think

now of the main Chance: He was overjoy'd to find me in such a Disposition;

and after I had spent a few Days with him, I proceeded to _Zeitz_, by the

way of _Leipsick_.

* * * * *

You know that ZEITZ is a Town which has always been the Appenage of a

Branch of the _Saxon_ Family: The last Duke that was in Possession of it

marry'd a Princess of _Brandenbourg_, Sister of our late King. That Duke

chang'd his Religion twice towards the Close of his Life: The first time

he turn'd _Catholic_, in Imitation of his Brother the Cardinal of _Saxe_;

and the second time he return'd to the _Lutheran_ Religion, in which he

had been educated: As he left but one Daughter, who was marry'd to Prince

_William_ of _Hesse-Cassel_, his Dominions ought to have fallen to the

Cardinal, and to one of his Nephews; but they being both of them

_Catholics_, are disinherited by virtue of an Article of the Treaty of

_Westphalia_: Mean time the King of _Poland_, who is a _Catholic_, seiz'd

them, and continues Master of them, so that those Dominions are govern'd

by a Regency, which receives its Orders from _Dresden_: The King of

_Poland_ made an Accommodation with the Cardinal and the young Prince, by

giving each of them a Sum of Money, and engaging moreover to pay the late

Duke's Debts.

* * * * *

From _Zeitz_ I went to HOFF, the first Town in the Marquisate of

_Brandenbourg-Bareith_, from whence I proceeded to _Bareith_, the Capital

of the Margraviate of that Name, and from thence to _Erlangen_: Of both

these Towns I shall have occasion to make Mention hereafter: From

_Erlangen_ I went to NUREMBERG[33], which passes for the best built City

in all _Germany_: The Houses are all very beautiful, lofty, and perfectly

lightsome, and most of them are painted on the Outside, like those of

_Augsbourg_: The Town-house, in which the Senate assembles, is a Structure

remarkably beautiful, is very large, and completely well built: The

principal Front is adorn'd by Three great Portico's with Marble Pillars:

The Inside is every whit answerable to the Magnificence of the Outside,

there being very fine Rooms in it, adorn'd with noble Paintings.

The Territory of _Nuremberg_ is considerable, there being several Towns

and Villages depending on it: The _Brandenbourg_ Family have had frequent

Disputes with the Republic on account of some Lands, that they claim for

their Appurtenances; upon which Blood has been spilt more than once; nay,

in the Reign of the Emperor _Frederic_ III. there was actually an open War

upon that Occasion: At present _Nuremberg_ is secure against any manner of

Insult; it having good Ramparts, an Arsenal well furnish'd, and a numerous

Garison.

* * * * *

After I had stay'd Two Days at _Nuremberg_, I set out for AICHSTEDT, which

is the See of a Bishop, who is Prince of the Empire: I had the Honour of

waiting on the then Bishop of the See, who was of the Family of the Barons

of _Knebel_ of _Katzenellebogen_, and a Prelate not only of a noble

Extraction, but extraordinary Merit: Having a Letter of Recommendation to

him, I desir'd Audience of him, and he granted it to me with great Marks

of Distinction; for he sent me one of his Coaches, and gave me the most

civil Reception in the World: Being at that time violently afflicted with

the Gout, he was seated, and made me sit down likewise; and after a good

deal of Discourse, he invited me to Supper: The Supper was attended by a

Concert, which his Musicians came to perform in his Chamber: It was a very

numerous Band, and perfectly well adapted: I made my Court to him for the

Five or Six Days that I stay'd at _Aichstedt_, and when I went away, he

made me a Present of a Gold Snuffbox, which weigh'd 25 Ducats: He took it

out of a Cabinet that he shew'd me, in which I observ'd a great many very

valuable Jewels, particularly a Diamond Cross, reckon'd worth between 5

and 600,000 Florins: This Prelate had moreover the Complaisance to defray

my Expences at my Inn, so that when I came to call for the Reckoning, I

was very much surpriz'd to find that I had been beholden to the Prince to

clear it.

* * * * *

At my Departure from _Aichstedt_ I took the direct Road to _Ratisbon_,

which carry'd me thro' INGOLSTADT, a strong Place of _Bavaria_: It serv'd

for the Residence of several Dukes of _Bavaria_, whose Castle is still to

be seen, where lives the Governor, who is always a General Officer of the

Elector's Troops.

From _Ingolstadt_ Half a Day's Journey brought me to RATISBON, an Imperial

City of _Bavaria_, and a Suffragan Bishoprick of _Saltzbourg_: There I

found the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was come thither to preside at the Dyet,

in quality of the Emperor's Commissary: He had for his Adjunct the Baron

_de Kirchner_, who had the Title of Joint Commissioner at the Dyet, and

had the Care of all Affairs: This Post of Commissioner at the Dyet is the

most honourable that the Emperor has in his Nomination; insomuch that a

Commissioner does not yield Precedence to an Elector; and his very

Instructions import, that if a King comes to _Ratisbon_, he must not yield

him the Preference: The Cardinal of _Lamberg_, who was the Cardinal of

_Saxe_'s Predecessor in the Post of Commissioner at the Dyet, had some

Broil with the Electors, and with the Court of _Vienna_, because he gave

way to the Duke of _Lorrain_: This Prince passing thro' _Ratisbon_ to take

Possession of his Dominions, after the Treaty of _Ryswick_, sent Notice to

the Cardinal of his Arrival, upon which he went immediately, and pay'd his

Royal Highness a Visit, invited him to dine at his House, sent his Coaches

for the Duke, and gave him the Right Hand upon all Occasions: Of this the

Electors Envoys complain'd; but the Cardinal, not much intoxicated with

his Dignity, made them Answer, That he thought it was a Deference which he

ow'd to the Duke of _Lorrain_, not as a Sovereign Prince, but as the

Emperor's Nephew: He made Use of the same Argument at the Court of

_Vienna_, where, tho' for that one time only, his Conduct was approv'd.

This is not the only Prerogative enjoy'd by the Commissioner to the Dyet:

He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv'd by Gentlemen: When

an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv'd

as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the

Chamber of Audience; There's a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers,

always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this

Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the

Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two

Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the

Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy's almost over against

him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet,

with the Back turn'd half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over,

the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from

whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the

Princes are only receiv'd by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects

them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which

is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is

enter'd, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy

does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner's,

with its Back turn'd towards the Door, and plac'd in such a manner, that

the Envoy's Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner's Carpet: When the

Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The

Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back,

and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only

one Gentleman receives and reconducts them.

When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation

to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days

before-hand; and the Table must be plac'd under a Canopy, where the

Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his

Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters.

I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Cardinal Commissioner, who

receiv'd me with all the Good-nature possible, and talk'd to me in such a

manner, as gave me Hopes of Success: The Envoys of the Princes spoke to

him also in my Favour, and they thought him well dispos'd to serve me: I

remain'd thus Four Months at _Ratisbon_ in continual Hopes, but still

without seeing my Affairs settled: I was resolv'd to be somewhat urgent

with him, that I might know without Delay what I had to depend upon: The

Cardinal was so good as not to refuse me to my Face, but he sent me Word

by one of the Elector's Envoys, who spoke to me for him, that 'twas in

vain for me to stay at _Ratisbon_; that he could do me no Service; and he

said also, without giving any Reason for it, that even tho' the whole Dyet

was to intercede for me, he would do nothing for me: This Expression,

which I could not think an ambiguous one, made me cease to sollicit him.

At this same time the Emperor declar'd the Marriage of his Niece the

Archduchess with _Charles-Albert Cajetan_, the Electoral Prince of

_Bavaria_: The Elector of _Bavaria_ had waited for this News a long time,

and he receiv'd it almost at the same Instant when he heard that his Third

Son the Duke _Clement_, the Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, had been

elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_, in spite of the Opposition which several

Powers had secretly fomented against him in the Chapter. The Cardinal of

_Saxe_ had conceiv'd some Hopes of attaining to this Dignity; but he

desisted from his Pretensions for a very considerable Sum of Money in

Hand, and for the Grant of the Provostship of _Alten-Ottingen_ in

_Bavaria_ to the Prince his Nephew. _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of

_Munster_, gave a grand Feast on account of his Master's new Dignity: He

caus'd a great Room and several Tents to be erected at the Gates of

_Ratisbon_, where there was Play under the Tents, and a Supper in the long

Room: The Cardinal of _Saxe_ was present at it, and the Envoys with their

Ladies, and all the Quality there in general were invited to it: After the

Feast there was a Firework, to give time to prepare the long Room for the

Ball, which held till Day-light.

Not long after this Entertainment the Cardinal of _Saxe_ set out for

_Hungary_, where he was to preside in quality of Primate of that Kingdom,

at the Dyet which met there this Year: The Emperor and Empress assisted at

it, to settle the Affairs of the Succession of that Crown, the Right of

which the States of the Country acknowledg'd to belong to the

Archduchesses, Daughters of their Imperial Majesties, and to their

Posterity, in case it should please God not to grant their Majesties a

Son.

After the Cardinal was gone, I stay'd at _Ratisbon_ no longer than was

absolutely necessary to take Leave of the Ministers of the Electors and

the other Envoys, from whom I had receiv'd all manner of Civilities; for

many of them, not content with shewing me the utmost Complaisance,

extended their Regards further, and knowing the State of my Affairs, they

had behav'd with a Generosity to me, which I shall always remember with

Gratitude; and happy should I be, could I one Day or other find an

Opportunity to shew them Proofs of it! The only one I can give them now

is, to mention their Names to you: The Regard you always had for me will

no doubt engage you, _Madame_, to esteem them as such generous Friends

deserve, which will be an Advantage they will prize the more, because as

they have the Honour to be acquainted with you, they know full well that

you never grant your Esteem, where it is not justly merited.

The Count _de Konigsfelt_, the Envoy of _Bavaria_, was one of those who

strove most with the Cardinal to serve me: This Minister liv'd very grand

at _Ratisbon_: Every thing about him was of the utmost Magnificence: His

Table was exquisite, his Music perfectly well compos'd, his Equipages of a

noble Fancy, and he had a great Number of Domestics, all well cloath'd:

All this external Appearance diffus'd an Air of Grandeur throughout this

Minister's Houshold, which gave a sublime Idea of the Prince whom he

represented: The Sollicitations of this Minister for me were warmly

seconded by the other Envoys, who also drew their Purse-strings for me:

These were the Baron _de Kirchner_, the Joint Commissioner; _M. de

Vriesberg_, the Envoy of _Hanover_; _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of

_Munster_; the Baron _de Duremberg_; the Envoy of _Hesse-Cassel_; and _M.

de Hagen_, the Envoy of the Duke of _Saxe-Gotha_.

After having discharg'd what I thought Politeness and Gratitude demanded

of me, I set out from _Ratisbon_, to meet my Brother, who was at

_Dusseldorff_ solliciting a Law-Suit, which we were jointly carrying on

with _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, and which we lost, no doubt because it

was not the Decree of Providence that we should enjoy the good Things of

this World.

* * * * *

When I set out from _Ratisbon_ I took the shortest Road, which was to go

thro' _Nuremberg_, _Wurtzbourg_ and _Francfort_: I stopp'd a few Days at

WURTZBOURG[34], one of the richest and most considerable Bishopricks in

the Empire: The Bishop assumes the Title of Duke of _Franconia_: He, who

then possess'd this See, was of the Family _Schonborn_: This Prelate kept

up a Court and Houshold as considerable as any Prince in _Germany_: I saw

him in all his Glory upon the Festival of the Patron of the Cathedral: He

went from his House to the Church, with a Pomp truly Royal. I saw first

the Bishop's Harbinger, follow'd by all the Domestics and Gentlemen of his

Court: Then came Six Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop's

Arms: Afterwards there follow'd Two of the Prince's Running-Footmen, and

24 of his other Footmen, all dress'd in his Livery, which was Purple, with

Lace of green Velvet, mix'd with Silver Lace, and they had Waistcoats of

green Cloth, lac'd with Silver: After the Footmen march'd 18 Pages with

Cloaks of the Bishop's Livery, lin'd with green Sattin: These were

follow'd by above 50 Gentlemen, who walk'd immediately before a stately

Coach, in which the Prince rode alone: His Master of the Horse, and the

Captain of his Guards walk'd on Foot by the Sides of the Coach, which was

guarded by Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, dress'd in the antique

manner: 50 Life-Guards in Habits of purple Cloth lac'd with Silver, and

with Bandoleers of green Velvet, lac'd also with Silver, follow'd the

Coach: The March was, clos'd by Three fine Coaches, drawn each by Six

Horses, with the Bishop's Arms: Arriving with this Train at his Cathedral,

he was receiv'd at the Gate by all the Chapter in a Body: A _Domicellaire_

carry'd the Banner of _Franconia_, and the Marshal of the Bishop's Court

bore the Sword of State, to denote the Sovereignty of the Duchy of

_Franconia_: The Prelate being conducted to the Vestry, and there array'd

in his Pontificalibus, walk'd into the Choir: His Throne was rais'd Three

Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy, all of

Tapistry, with a Silver Ground: As soon as he was seated the Office

began, by a very fine Piece of Music, perform'd by the Bishop's Musicians:

After a very short Anthem the Prelate took the Holy Sacrament from the

Altar, and carry'd it in Procession out of the Church: He went all round

the Cathedral with it, preceded by the _Domicellaire_, and the Marshal of

his Court, bearing one the Banner of _Franconia_, and the other the Sword:

The Streets thro' which the Procession pass'd were lin'd with 4000 Men of

the Bishop's Troops, which he had order'd into the Town to give the

greater Splendor to the Ceremony: When the Procession was return'd to the

Church, Mass was sung to Music, and the Bishop officiated: The Ceremony

being ended, he return'd to his Palace, with the same Train that attended

him to the Church.

The City of _Wurtzbourg_ resembles the Magnificence of its Bishop, and has

Buildings both sacred and profane, which are very grand: I will give you a

more particular Account of some of them, after I have added a Word or Two

of the City itself: 'Tis an ancient City, and has been subject to many

Revolutions: 'Twas taken in 1526 by the Peasants of _Swabia_ and

_Franconia_, who rebell'd against their Lords upon a Supposition that

_Luther_, who at that time preach'd up Rebellion against the Authority of

the Pope, would likewise approve of their Revolt from their Sovereigns:

_Luther_, however, instead of approving of their Conduct, wrote

strenuously against them, but there was a Necessity of employing other

Methods than Remonstrances to reclaim them: _George Truchses_ of

_Waldbourg_, Colonel of the _Swabian_ League, soon reduc'd them to their

Duty: He fac'd them with a good Number of Soldiers, and the Peasants were

so rash as to make Head against them; for which, however, they suffer'd

dearly, for they were defeated in several Engagements; and I was assur'd,

that it cost the Lives of above 50,000 of them: After this Defeat

_Wurtzbourg_ remain'd quiet till _William of Grumbach_, who had some

Complaint against the Bishop, caus'd him to be assassinated: The Chapter

of _Wurtzbourg_ prepar'd to revenge the Death of their Bishop, but

_Grumbach_ resolv'd to prevent them, and putting himself at the Head of

1200 Men, he surpriz'd the City in 1563, abandon'd it to the Pillage of

his Soldiers, and by that means forc'd the Chapter to come to Terms with

him: The Emperor _Ferdinand_ II. being soon inform'd of _Grumbach_'s

Transactions, put him under the Ban of the Empire; whereupon _Grumbach_

retir'd to _John-Frederic_, Duke of _Saxony_, Son to that _John-Frederic_

whom the Emperor _Charles_ V. had degraded from the Electoral Dignity:

This Misfortune of the Father ought to have been a Warning to the Son not

to grant his Protection to such a Rebel as _Grumbach_: Nevertheless, it

was no Restraint to him: The Emperor, incens'd at such Conduct, put the

Duke also under the Ban of the Empire, and charg'd _Augustus_, Elector of

_Saxony_, to see the Ban put in Execution: This Elector acquitted his

Commission so well, that he secur'd _John-Frederic_, and sent him to the

Emperor, who caus'd him to be committed Prisoner to _Neustad_, where,

after 26 Years Imprisonment, the unhappy Prince dy'd: _Grumbach_, who was

also arrested, was condemn'd to be broke alive, and his Accomplices were

beheaded.

Ever since this Expedition _Wurtzbourg_ has enjoy'd a profound

Tranquillity; which has render'd it so rich and powerful as it is at this

Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the

Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a

vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of

the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar,

are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy

Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there

are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some

Passages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave

by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble,

which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very

curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are

Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a

Lustre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral,

which, when finish'd, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be

lin'd throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from _Italy_

for the Purpose: He hasten'd it the more, _because_, said he to me upon a

time, _I design to have my Bones laid there_. Perhaps this Prince was

persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few

Months he dy'd: He was succeeded by _Christopher-Francis_ of _Houtten de

Stoltzenberg_, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_.

Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen

here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I

afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks

over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough,

and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon'd it, and

chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle

which he was building was finish'd: I could not help thinking it wrong in

him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign,

in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar'd: 'Tis encompass'd on

all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack:

The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost

nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the

Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in

this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what

peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded

Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a

monstrous Size, and they are all adorn'd with Carving, and full of Wine,

of which they don't fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.

As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the Arsenal,

which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly

well arch'd over, and contain about 160 Brass Guns, the Generality of

which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The

Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd as well as the Walls with all

the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing

belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The

Bases were adorn'd with Boxes full of Musket-Balls: Underneath there are

large fine Cellars stor'd with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for

a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was assur'd there

were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang'd in such Order, that

'tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow Spaces are full of Flints and

Balls: The Court of this Arsenal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are

full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one

would take it for the Temple of _Mars_, rather than for the Palace of a

Minister of Peace.

The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital

stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to _Nuremberg_: 'Twill

be one of the finest in _Europe_, if the Model I have seen of it be

exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish'd, and about a

Fourth Part of the Castle carry'd up to the first Story: But tho' there

was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to

Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five

great Courts: The Bishop's Design was to make the principal Stair-case of

Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the

Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to

be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had

actually demolish'd the Ramparts, and fill'd up the Ditches; but Death

stopp'd him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor

to take care, that the Work be finish'd according to the Plan of it, which

has been admir'd by those who are good Judges.

After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital,

which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos'd of a great

Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The principal Entrance is

thro' the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the

Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as

Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor

Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion

is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the

Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv'd,

painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the

Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first;

there's a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop,

assisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon _Holy-Thursday_,

and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany'd by the

Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room

below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn'd with

Fountains, Grotto's, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which

is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who

was in every thing magnificent, design'd to enlarge this Building with

Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form'd a fine

Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at _Wurtzbourg_ to the

Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow'd, as fully proves the Good-nature

and Wealth of the People of this Country.

After I had stay'd at _Wurtzbourg_, I embark'd on the _Maine_, in which is

most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a

Prospect as agreeably diversify'd as can be wish'd: When I arriv'd at

_Francfort_ I heard of the Death of _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whose

Estate in _Holland_ I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other

Estates went to her Mother, who was still living.

* * * * *

From _Francfort_ I went to _Dusseldorp_, where I found my Brother, who was

still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause:

For my Part, as I was more inur'd to Disappointments, I endeavour'd to

comfort him, and advis'd him to go to _Berlin_, and sell what Estate we

had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to

this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My

Brother set out therefore for _Berlin_, and I went to HAMBOURG, to wait

the Issue of the Sale: I stay'd there from _November_ to _Easter_, and

spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint

you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this

Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had

Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pass the Season, and there

were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of _Lower Saxony_, who

were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was _M. Poussin_, the

Envoy of _France_, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon

Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these

Ministers there were several other Families at _Hambourg_ where Foreigners

of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain'd: The Count _de Nat_,

a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor's Service, and formerly Minister of

State to the Duke of _Holstein_, and General of his Forces, kept a grand

House there, which was noted for one of the best in _Hambourg_, where was

a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there

was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv'd additional Lustre

from the noble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister's

Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more

particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of

her, as a Person of distinguish'd Merit, and who, with a great Share of

Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count _de Guldenstein_ made a

considerable Figure also at _Hambourg_; his Table was delicate, and always

furnish'd with the best of Company; judge, _Madame_, whether I could think

the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a

continual Round of Pleasure: We din'd to Day at one House, To-morrow at

another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes

interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well

pleas'd: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations noble, the

Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress'd, and such as

endeavour'd to play their Parts for the best.

* * * * *

I set out from _Hambourg_ with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of

KIEL, which begins the next Day after _Epiphany_, and holds Three Weeks:

All this time _Hambourg_ is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to

this Fair, because 'tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents,

that Leases are renew'd with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to

Advantage: Tho' I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I

was determin'd not to stay behind so much good Company as went from

_Hambourg_.

The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of

the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke's Castle,

which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish'd: And there's a Garden

to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous

all the Fair-time, that 'tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet

every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there

are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow'd with a Ball:

There is moreover a _German_ Comedy, which, tho' detestable, is well

frequented.

After the Fair was over, I went and pass'd Two Days with a Friend of mine

at an Estate of his Three Leagues from _Kiel_: Then I return'd to

_Hambourg_, where I stay'd till _Easter_, and having receiv'd News from

_Berlin_, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much

Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv'd to go thither, in order to

make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there _incog._ as

well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends

besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from _Berlin_ with

my Brother, in order to go to his House at _Zell_; where I intended to

stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at _Carelsbadt_.

* * * * *

When that time came, I departed from _Zell_: I stay'd some time at

BLANKENBERG, where the Empress's Father and Mother then resided: This is

no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a

very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke's Domestics, who all

live in the Town: 'Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present

Duke has caus'd to be repair'd and fitted up, as well as possible in the

modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very

beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn'd with Pilasters, and

Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke

and Duchess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the

Pictures of the Duke and Duchess themselves at full Length.

To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the Duchess has a

Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows

that she sent for from _Swisserland_, in a Stable which is kept

extraordinary clean.

The Duke and Duchess were so kind to me, that I long'd to be in their

Service: I had no longer any Thoughts of being a Clergyman, and was then

at entire Liberty to make serious Reflections upon all the Projects that

had enter'd into my Head: Having then a Fancy to serve the Duke of

_Blankenberg_, I took my Measures for that End almost as soon as I had

thought of it: The Privy Counsellor undertook to speak for me, and at

first he had a very favourable Answer, but at last it far'd with me in

this Attempt, as it had in all the rest; I receiv'd a great many

Compliments, and yet was deny'd.

After having stay'd awhile at _Blankenberg_, I took Leave of the Duke and

Duchess: The Princess was so good as to accept of a Couple of very pretty

Dogs I had brought with me; and me made me a Present of a Gold Medal worth

25 Ducats, stamp'd with the Effigy of the Duke her Husband, very much like

him.

From _Blankenberg_ I went to BARBI[35], where I had the Honour of waiting

upon the Duke of _Saxony_, who commonly resides there: This Prince was

heretofore in the Service of the late King of _Prussia_, when he was only

Elector: He had left the Service a long time, and retir'd to his Town of

_Barbi_, where he has erected a noble Castle, the Apartments of which are

perfectly well furnish'd: There's a superb Saloon, with a Chamber of

Audience on one Side of it, and a Closet, that are both worth seeing; all

the Furniture being of crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, of admirable

Workmanship.

* * * * *

From _Barbi_ I proceeded to CARELSBADT by the way of _Leipsick_: I was

soon weary of using the Waters, because the Season was so far advanc'd,

that most of the Water-Drinkers were gone: Having therefore nothing to

write to you of any of the Acquaintance which is commonly made at Places

of this nature, I shall only treat of _Carelsbadt_ itself: 'Tis a very

dirty Place, and inhabited only by Artificers, who work in old Iron: The

Waters taken here are of Two Kinds, and they are distinguish'd by the

Names of the _Sproudel_ and the _Muhlbadt_: The _Sproudel_-Water is

extremely hot, and gushes out of the Ground with a most vehement Stream,

as big as a Man about the Waist: Its Waters are not only hot, but scalding

hot, which is the more surprizing, because the Fountain from whence they

flow, is on the Side of a River very rapid, and very cold: Yet, in the

midst of this River, one sees mineral Waters, which smoak as if they were

boiling in a Caldron.

As to the _Muhlbadt_ 'tis but little more than lukewarm: 'Tis not very

long that the Physicians have prescrib'd the Use of this Water, which

formerly serv'd to wash diseased Cattle in with very good Success; but the

Physicians taking the nature of this Water into Consideration, have since

recommended it to those People who find the Waters of the _Sproudel_ too

violent in their Operation: I have made Use of both, and they work'd with

me very well: They have no ill Taste; and 'tis certain, that if it were

ever so little disagreeable, it would be impossible for People to drink so

much of it, as they do every Day: The thing that I dislike them most for,

is, that they must be taken in one's Chamber, which must be also kept

close shut up, because the _Sproudel_ makes one sweat largely, so that

were ever so little Air to be let into the Room, one should be in Danger

of catching Rheumatisms: People scarce ever stir out till Three or Four

Hours after they have done drinking the Waters; and the rest of the Day

there's an absolute Necessity of walking about to prevent sleeping, which

after Dinner is dangerous: The worst on't is, that as necessary as Walking

is, there's not one agreeable Place to walk in, the Walks being all

extremely narrow, and nothing but Rocks to be seen, look which way one

will: The finest Walk of all is in a square Place, which is planted with

Rows of Lime-Trees: Opposite to this Square is a great House, where there

are very fine Rooms, in which the Persons of Quality, who drink the

Waters, assemble at Five o'Clock, and play till Eight, the Hour for

Supper, at which Meal People ought to be very sparing; Regimen being one

of the most necessary things to be observ'd in the Taking of those

Waters.

When I had done taking them I set out Post for PRAGUE, where I knew that

their Imperial Majesties were to be present for their Consecration and

Coronation: I arriv'd there the Day before their Majesties were to make

their Entry, which was perform'd with great Magnificence, but would have

been abundantly more pompous, if the bad Weather had not prevented the

intended Cavalcade, which would have been one of the noblest Sights in the

World: The Emperor propos'd to have enter'd this Capital on Horseback, at

the Head of all the Nobility of _Bohemia_, and they had all laid out

prodigious Sums in Horses and Equipages; but a monstrous Shower of Rain

fell, which frustrated all the Preparations: Their Majesties made their

Entry in a magnificent Coach lin'd with crimson Velvet, richly embroider'd

with Gold: The Emperor, who sate alone in the Back part of it, was dress'd

in a Habit of Silver Brocade embroider'd with Gold, with a Hat on in the

Imperial Fashion, with straw-colour'd Plumes: The Empress, who sate

over-against him, was dress'd in a green silver'd Stuff all cover'd with

Diamonds: The Two young Archduchesses follow'd in another Coach, with the

Princess of _Aversberg_ their Governess in Company.

As soon as it was known in the City that their Majesties were coming, all

the Bells were rung, the Cannon fir'd from the Ramparts, and the Burghers

and Garison made several Salvo's of the Small Arms: The Magistrates of the

Three Towns which compose the City of _Prague_ receiv'd their Majesties at

the City Gates, where the chief Burgomaster of the Quarter call'd the _Old

Town_ gave them the Keys of the Three Towns, and congratulated them on

their Arrival at the City of _Prague_: After he had ended his Speech,

their Majesties were welcom'd a second time by the Cannon of the Ramparts,

and by the Salvo's of the Small Arms from the Burghers and the Garison:

They then continued their March towards the Palace, and in their Passage

met with the Friars and Nuns, who saluted them at the Gates of their

several Convents: The Emperor and the Empress stopp'd their Coach every

now-and-then, on Purpose to be seen by those Friars; but there was no

Convent that was treated with so many Marks of Distinction as that of the

Jesuits: They had the Honour of complimenting their Majesties in a Speech,

with which they seem'd well satisfy'd: When they were arriv'd at the

Palace, their Majesties alighted from the Coach, and went to the

Metropolitan Church, which joins to the Palace: The Archbishop of

_Prague_, at the Head of the Bishops his Suffragans and his Chapter,

receiv'd them as they alighted out of the Coach, and after having

complimented them in the Name of all the Clergy, he conducted them to

their Praying-Desk, which was plac'd over-against the High Altar, and

there their Majesties receiv'd the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament: After

this there was a _Te Deum_, during which there was a triple Discharge of

the Cannon and Small Arms: This done, they retir'd to their Apartments

thro' a cover'd Gallery, which runs from the Church to the Castle: At

Night they supp'd in public with the Two young Archduchesses.

Next Day their Majesties receiv'd the Compliments of the Three Estates of

the Kingdom: On the following Days the Court return'd to their old Custom;

I mean, they liv'd at _Prague_, after the same manner as they did at

_Vienna_, till every thing was ready for the Ceremonies of the

Consecration and Coronation, which were to be perform'd on Two different

Days.

Mean time I amus'd myself in viewing what was most remarkable in the Town,

and had Reason to be very well pleas'd with the Steps, which I was oblig'd

to take to be well acquainted with this Capital[36], which may in my

Opinion be reckon'd among the first Towns in _Europe_: It stands in a

pleasant and fruitful Country, and the Palace and Pleasure-houses round it

form a sort of Amphitheatre, which the River of _Moldaw_ divides into Two

Parts, that are join'd by one of the finest Bridges in the World.

_Prague_ is divided into Three Parts, _viz._ The _Old Town_, which alone

is as big as the other two Thirds of the City, namely, The _Little Town_

and The _New Town_: In the _Little Town_ stands the Metropolitan Church,

and the Castle of the Kings of _Bohemia_, upon a Hill which they call

_Ratschin_: This is the first Quarter of _Prague_ that one comes to from

_Nuremberg_ or _Carelsbadt_.

The Metropolitan would be a great and noble Church, if it was finish'd; or

rather, if it was rebuilt; for 'twas burnt by the _Swedes_ in 1648; what

remains of it is inconsiderable, excepting however some very fine Chapels,

that contain the Relics of certain Saints, for whom _Bohemia_ has a

singular Veneration: Such is the Chapel in which rests the Body of _St.

Wenceslaus_ King of _Bohemia_, by whom the Church was founded: This Saint

is the Patron of _Bohemia_, and the whole Kingdom has a great Confidence

in his Intercession: On one Side of the Choir is a stately Mausoleum,

which contains the Body of _St. John Nepomucene_, who was beatify'd in

1721 with very great Pomp, in Presence of the Empress, who was at the

Charge of the Ceremony: The City of _Prague_, in order to do Honour to the

Memory of this Saint, has caus'd his Statue in Brass, as big as the Life,

to be erected upon the Bridge, from whence the Emperor _Wenceslaus_,

surnam'd the _Nero_ and _Caligula_ of _Germany_, threw him into the

_Moldaw_, because that Friar, who was his Empress's Confessor, refus'd to

reveal her Confession to him.

The Palace of the Kings of _Bohemia_, which joins to the Metropolitan

Church, is a Heap of several Pavilions without any Regularity, and without

much Ornament: The Inside is as ordinary as the Outside, yet for a little

Expence it might easily be made a tolerable Structure: The only thing I

observ'd here that could be call'd magnificent, was the Situation of it,

for from their Majesties Apartments there's the finest View that can be

imagin'd.

As one goes from the Palace upon the same Hill, one sees the great Houses

of _Schwartzenbourg_, _Martinitz_, and _Tschermin_, which are noble

Buildings, and most richly furnish'd: The last especially has more the Air

of a Sovereign's Palace than of the House of a Subject; and he that

inhabits it is one of the richest in the Emperor's Hereditary Dominions: I

heard say, that he lent the Emperor 1500,000 Florins, which makes Three

Millions of _French_ Livres, when the Exchange is at Par.

I went down the Hill _Ratschin_ to go farther into the City: And on the

Descent of it I saw at the Right Hand the Palace of _Kinski_, which

belongs to the Great Chancellor of _Bohemia_; and at the Left Hand the

Palace of the Count _de Collobradt_, surnam'd the _Bulky_, and very

justly so, for I don't think he has his Fellow in the World; and yet it

may be expected, that he will be bigger still, for he is as yet but 24

Years old. These Two Houses are very beautiful, but yet they are somewhat

eclipsed by the Palaces of _Colloredo_, _Wallenstein_, and the Count

_Francis-Charles de Collobradt_: The Palace of this latter excells the

others in Contrivance and Magnificence, and is adorn'd throughout with

very fine Gildings and Paintings, done by the best Masters: The Apartments

are richly furnish'd, and neither Gold has been spar'd, nor Pier-Glasses,

of which there's a great Number, and yet not so many as to confound the

Sight: To this House belongs a very fine Garden, which is kept in good

Order, and at the End of it is a Hill, the Declivity whereof is soften'd

by several Terraces cut out on it, which form very pleasant Walks,

especially when 'tis consider'd, that all this is in the middle of a City.

I went afterwards to see the _Old Town_, to which one must pass over a

noble Stone-Bridge, and the only one at _Prague_: The Piles of this Bridge

are adorn'd with the Statues of several Saints; and some that compose

noble Groupes: Among these Statues is that of _St. John Nepomucene_, at

the Foot of which are People always at Prayers. On the same Side, but

nearer the old City, is a great Crucifix of Copper gilt, which the _Jews_

were compell'd to set up in this Place, as a Punishment for some Crimes

they had committed.

At the End of the Bridge stands the Gate of the _Old Town_: The first

thing one observes there, is the Great Convent and College of the Jesuits:

'Tis a prodigious Building, and worthy of a Society so considerable:

Beyond that I saw a magnificent Palace, which they told me belongs to the

Count _de Gallasch_, Son to the Count of the same Name, who died Viceroy

of _Naples_: 'Tis one of the finest Buildings in _Prague_, setting aside

its Situation, which is not the best: There are many other Palaces and

magnificent Houses, the particular Description of which might be tedious:

All that I shall say to you of this Part of the Town, is, that the Streets

are very narrow, and withal darksome: The _New Town_ is by far superior;

the Streets are spacious and beautiful, and the whole Quarter is much

better built than the other Two.

The City of _Prague_ and the Kingdom of _Bohemia_ in general have formerly

been subject to great Revolutions: The _Hussites_ committed sad Disorders

there, and had like to have ruin'd the whole Country by their Cabals; so

that there was a Necessity of drawing the Sword against them, and when

they were totally extirpated, the Protestants of _Luther_'s Communion

became so powerful there, that they presum'd, under Pretence of Religion,

to revolt from the Emperor _Ferdinand_ their Sovereign: They ran

tumultuously to the Castle, and having made themselves Masters of it, they

threw the Emperor's Commissioners, who then held their Assembly there, out

of the Windows of the Hall: Those on the Spot were the Barons _de Slavata_

and _de Martinitz_; and the Secretary _Fabricius_ had the same Fate; but

happily for all Three, there was not one of them wounded: After this _Coup

d'Eclat_ the Rebels rais'd Troops, solemnly protested against the Election

of _Ferdinand_ II. to the Empire, and offer'd the Crown of _Bohemia_ to

_Frederic_ V. Elector and Count Palatine of the _Rhine_: This Prince

could not easily determine himself to receive a Crown, which he could not

so soon expect to possess in Quiet; but his Wife, who was the Daughter of

_James_ I. King of _England_, did not amuse herself with any such

Reflections and probably upon the Principle, _That to reign is glorious,

tho' it were only for a Moment_: This Princess so wrought upon the

Elector, that the said Prince, for Want of knowing his own Interest

better, consented at length to put himself at the Head of the Rebels, who

had the Assurance to crown him with Solemnity in the Metropolitan Church

of _Prague_: The Emperor, justly provok'd at the Behaviour of his Subject,

sent Troops to reduce them to Reason: _Frederic_, on his Part, put himself

at the Head of a considerable Army; but 'twas impossible for him to stand

before the Emperor's Troops; which being commanded by the famous _Tilly_,

beat him to such a Degree, that he thought himself very happy, that he

could retire with the Queen his Wife, and abandon the Throne to his lawful

Sovereign: This Rebellion involv'd _Germany_ in that unhappy War call'd,

_The War of Thirty Years_; because in Fact it lasted so long, till a

Period was put to it by the Peace of _Westphalia_.

During the Course of this War _Bohemia_ had frequent Cause to repent that

it ever was the Occasion of it: The City of _Prague_, and in particular

the _Little Town_, was almost intirely plunder'd and burnt in 1648 by the

_Swedes_, who were introduced into it by one _Ottowalsky_, then a Captain

of Horse in the Service of the Emperor _Ferdinand_ III. This Officer

having conceiv'd a Disgust at something, made a Trip to _Koningsmark_ the

_Swedish_ General, and offer'd to introduce him to _Prague_, if he would

follow him with his Army: For this Purpose he told him, that the Citizens

were intirely secure against any Apprehension of an Attack from the

_Swedes_; and that they were fully persuaded, they would never venture to

make the least Attempt, considering the Handful of Soldiers which their

Army consisted of. _Koningsmark_ relish'd _Ottowalsky_'s Project, and on

the Day fix'd he follow'd him with his little Army, which did not amount

to above 3000 Men: He found every thing true that his Guide had told him,

and in the Night-time enter'd the Place by a Bridge, that serv'd to carry

over the Materials employ'd in the new Fortifications: _Koningsmark_

push'd on directly to the Castle, which he enter'd with the same Ease as

he had enter'd the Town: But by good Luck the Emperor happen'd at that

time to be gone from thence for awhile to _Lintz_: The _Swedes_ plunder'd

the Castle and the City for Three Days successively; and they took so

considerable a Booty, that _Colloredo_, who commanded in the Place, lost

to his own Share about 1200,000 Crowns: While the _Swedes_ were busy in

plundering that call'd the _Little Town_, the Alarm spread over the River

to the _Old Town_, where the Burghers and Garison ran to their Arms, and

by that means preserv'd their Quarter from the Fate which threaten'd them:

Mean time the _Swedes_ made extraordinary Efforts to get over to them, and

'tis even said, that they would probably have succeeded, had it not been

for the Jesuits, who perceiving that the Garison and Burghers were in

Danger of being overpower'd, arm'd their Scholars, and sent them out to

their Assistance.

The City of _Prague_ is now secure from such Insults, having good Walls

and excellent Ramparts, well furnish'd with Cannon: The Castle is

likewise very well fortify'd: A Citadel has been also built for the

Defence of the _New Town_, and as none but Catholics are suffer'd to live

there, the Protestants, who are absolutely excluded out of it, would find

it a difficult Task to foment another Rebellion there.

* * * * *

After I had spent some time at _Prague_, and found that the Ceremony of

their Majesties Coronation would not be perform'd so soon as expected, I

resolv'd to be gone: Having already laid out a good deal of Money at

_Prague_, I reflected with myself, that if I stay'd there any longer, it

might be out of my Power to answer all my Schemes: For you must know,

_Madame_, that I set out from _Berlin_ with a considerable Sum of Money,

and with a Design, while I was so well able, to pay off all my Creditors:

I began with those in _Holland_, and for this Purpose went to the HAGUE

about the latter End of _August_, and stay'd there till _February_: The

first Visit I paid was to my dear _Madame Pyll_, who had been so generous

a Friend to me, that I could not avoid paying her off first: I then made

several small Payments up and down, by which means the Debts I had

contracted in this Country were quickly discharg'd; and being still pretty

strong in Cash, I pass'd my Time at the _Hague_ as well as I could have

done at the most splendid Court; My Debts in this Country being now

clear'd, and the Ease with which I had satisfy'd other Debts that were

standing out farther off, gave me that Tranquillity of Mind which I had

not enjoy'd for a long time; and tho' I had yet no fix'd Establishment, I

thought what a great Happiness it was for a Man to be even with the

World.

My Brother came to me at the _Hague_, from whence we set out together for

_Zell_, where I stay'd till the Return of the fine Weather, and then

resolv'd to go a second time to CARELSBADT, not so much for the Sake of

the Waters as to see the Company there, which is always numerous, and of

the best Sort, when one goes earlier thither than I did the first time:

There was a prodigious Concourse there this bout, and all Persons of the

greatest Distinction: I had the Honour there of paying my Compliments to

the Elector of _Triers_, and the Margravine of _Anspach_, who came thither

for the Waters.

From _Carelsbadt_ I cross'd the _Rhine_, to that Side of it where I had

been offer'd a Settlement; but, upon mature Consideration, I resolv'd to

preserve my Liberty, and lest my Philosophy should flag in the Sentiments

of that Independency which it inspir'd me with, I set out immediately, for

fear of being engag'd in a sort of Combat, wherein there's no gaining the

Victory but by Flight.

* * * * *

I pass'd thro' BAREITH[37], where I had the Honour of paying my Respects

to the Margrave and the Margravine, who receiv'd me with all the

Complaisance possible: The Margrave is a tall handsome Man, and serv'd in

the last Wars with very great Distinction: This Prince is fond of Pleasure

and Magnificence, for which Reason his Court is one of the most numerous

and splendid in _Germany_; and it has an Air of Grandeur throughout, from

which all manner of Constraint is intirely banish'd: The Margravine has

all the Qualities that a great Princess can possibly desire; she is one

of the finest Ladies in _Germany_, is tall, perfectly handsome, and has a

Presence, which at first Sight denotes her Dignity: 'Tis pity this

Princess had not given a Male Heir to her Dominions; for she has yet but

one Child, a Daughter, and if there are no Princes, the Prince of

_Culmbach_ will be Heir of the Margrave's Dominions: The deceased King of

_Prussia_ had bought the Reversion, by which he cut off the Margraves of

_Culmbach_; but after his Majesty's Death those Princes entring their

Protest against a Bargain that had been struck to their Prejudice, the

present King has compounded the Matter with them; and by virtue of the

Accommodation the Princes of _Culmbach_ are engag'd to pay a considerable

Sum to the King at different Terms, one of which elaps'd at the Death of

the Margrave of _Bareith_, as the other will do when the young Prince of

_Anspach_ also dies, because then his Dominions revert in like manner to

the Princes of _Culmbach_.

I follow'd the Margrave's Court to _Himmelscron_, which is one of his

Hunting-Seats: 'Twas formerly a Convent, and since turn'd into a Castle,

which is charmingly situated on a little Hill, inviron'd with Meadows,

where the Margrave had a Camp of 2000 Men of his own Troops, which were

all in good Condition, and they appear'd to me to be nicely disciplin'd:

His Officers are all Men of Merit, and a good Mien: On the Side of the

Meadow where the Camp was, is a Mall, planted with Four Rows of Elms, the

finest that are to be seen: At the End of this Mall, which is one of the

longest in _Europe_, is a Play-house, and about the middle of this Mall a

very large Pavilion, with a Room where the Prince and Princess play'd

every Night with the Nobility of their Court.

The Margrave's Table, which was always magnificently serv'd, especially at

Dinner, is made in Form of a Horse-shoe: The Princess always sate in the

middle, having on her Left Hand the Princess her Daughter and the young

Princess of _Culmbach_, and on her Right the Ladies of her Court and the

Gentlemen: The Margrave sate over-against her in the Inside of the

Horse-shoe, with several Gentlemen on his Right and Left Hand: Besides the

Margrave's Table, there were Two others for Sixteen Guests each in another

Room, for such Gentlemen as could not be admitted to the Table of the

Margrave: After the Fruit was serv'd, a great Salver was set upon the

Table with a Coffee-pot and Cups, all of Silver, and every one there drank

Coffee without rising from the Table.

Immediately after Dinner was over, the Margravine and the Princesses

retired, but the Margrave stay'd in the Room to talk with the Courtiers:

This Prince commonly stood, leaning only against a Table, and the

Conversation was spirited every now-and-then by the Circulation of

Bumpers: The Margrave was a good Toper, but he left every Person that

attended him to his free Liberty.

About Six o'Clock, when the Princess was near upon going out, the Margrave

went to the Mall where there was Play at Ombre or Picquet till

Supper-time, after which they return'd to the Castle. The Prince had

another very fine House just without _Bareith_, which is call'd

_Brandebourg_: It stands on the Side of a great Lake, where are several

Galleys, Yachts and Gondola's, which he often engages in Combats with one

another; and of this he gave us a very noble Representation, from a

Theatre built on the Side of the Lake, so that when the Bottom of it was

laid open, the Theatre appears level with the Lake, and has a Prospect of

it for half a League.

In the middle of the Lake is an Island with a Fortification, which the

Margrave orders his Troops every now-and-then to attack and defend, on

Purpose to refresh their Memories with the military Evolutions.

About half a League from this House is another, call'd the _Hermitage_,

because no Persons can go to it, but such as are appointed; and likewise,

because all the time that the Margrave stays there, the Prince, Princess

and all their Retinue are dress'd like Hermits: An Avenue leads to this

House, at the End of which is a large Grotto representing Mount

_Parnassus_, with _Apollo_, the _Nine Muses_, and _Pegasus_, forming so

many Fountains: This Mount is open on the Four Sides, and gives Passage

into a Court, or rather a Square, where there are several Rows of Trees:

The middle Walk leads to the Castle, the Architecture whereof is perfectly

rustic, and it seems to have been built out of the very Rock: At the

Entrance of it one meets with a very fine Work, adorn'd with Shell-work

and several Statues representing the Rivers and Nymphs: As we go out of

the Grotto we enter into a little square Garden-Plot, which is encompass'd

with a rustic Building, and at the End of the Garden is the main Pavilion,

with Two Wings, which communicate with another by means of a magnificent

Saloon, fac'd all over with Marble: The Right Wing of the Saloon contains

an Apartment consisting of several Chambers, which belongs to the

Margrave, who is Father-Superior of the Hermits; and on the same Side are

a Dozen Cells for as many Hermits: On the opposite Side is the same Number

of Apartments for the Margravine and the Hermit-Ladies: The great Saloon

serves for the Refectory, where the Hermits of both Sexes have their

Meals.

The Garden is large, and kept in very good Order: At the End of it is a

Cascade, that falling from the Top of a Hill, has a charming Effect: On

the Sides of the Cascade are Terraces, and very commodious Slopings,

furnish'd on both Sides with a Palisade of Yoke-Elms that is breast-high;

and on each Side are Fir-trees, with Paths between them, each of which

leads to a Pavilion, whereof every Hermit has one: These Pavilions are

built and furnish'd after the manner of a Hermitage: The Hermits were

oblig'd to retire thither after Dinner, in order to observe a profound

Silence; but this Custom is mitigated in some measure, and they are now at

Liberty to visit one another: The Superior and the Superioress commonly

pay them a Visit: Towards the time of Recreation the Superioress tinkles

her Bell, to which the Prioress answers by her's, and the Hermits of both

Sexes tinkle their's also, as a Token that they have heard their Summons

to their Superior. When they are arriv'd there, they go out together, and

repair to the Place of Recreation, where they amuse themselves with all

manner of Play, and at the Hour of Supper they repair to the Refectory:

Sometimes the Hermit-Ladies regale the Prior with Dishes of their own

preparing in the Superioress's Kitchen: The Hermits for their own Part may

take the Pleasure of Hunting: You perceive, _Madame_, that 'tis pleasant

Living enough in such a Solitude, and that there's nothing too severe in

its Statutes. When the Court have spent their appointed Time at the

_Hermitage_, they all return to _Bareith_.

After I had been thus an Eye-Witness of the free and easy Life that People

lead at the Court of the Margrave, I took Leave of the Prince and

Princess, with a Design to proceed in my Journey, not so much to seek an

Employment, as to satisfy the Debts, which I had been oblig'd to contract

at a time, when they allowed me no more out of my Estate than barely what

they could not possibly take away from me: Here, _Madame_, I conclude the

Account of my Rambles. How tedious soever a Narrative of so little Concern

may appear to you, be so good as not to take it amiss of me, and to

consider, that I wrote it only in Obedience to Orders often repeated: Some

Person more self-interested might have scrupled such Obedience; nor did I

want Reasons to alledge for my Excuse; only I was afraid lest such

obstinate Silence on my Part should be deem'd unworthy of that profound

Respect, with which I am, and ever shall be,

MADAME,

_Your Most Humble_,

_And Most Obedient Servant_,

DE POLLNITZ.

[Illustration: Decoration.]

The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts. · 第 22 / 68 题

The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of