After having made this Progress thro' th_The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of the

_Pamphili_ and _Borghese_ Families, which the _Italians_ prefer before all

the Gardens in _Europe_; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The

Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel'd of the

Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens of _France_

outstrip them by far. At the Entrance of the _Borghese_ Vineyard is a

large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very

large Square, encompass'd with a Marble Balustrade, adorn'd with Statues

of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very

large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside

is fac'd with _Basso-Relievo's_ of Marble, amongst which the Statue of

_Quintus Curtius_ on Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph,

is especially to be admir'd.

The _Pamphili_'s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs

of _Rome_. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I

have not observ'd any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are

lin'd alike with _Basso-Relievo_'s of Marble of admirable Workmanship.

There are also noble Statues, but most of 'em a little damag'd, by reason

of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a Prince _Pamphili_,

who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first

hot Fits of his Devotion, caus'd the Nudities of the Statues of this

Garden to be plaister'd over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind

to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not

possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of

a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of

those Statues were considerably damaged.

All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as

the famous _Borghese_ and _Farnese_ Palaces, those of _Colonna_,

_Palavicini_, _Barberini_, and others, the Description of which I omit.

After having thus satisfy'd myself, I thought of being introduced to the

Pope, and for that Purpose apply'd to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, to whom

I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the Cardinals _Gualtieri_ and

_Ottoboni_. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their

three Eminencies. As I was a _German_, I paid my first Visit to the

Cardinal _del Giudice_, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor's

Affairs. After a short Stay in his Antichamber, I was Introduc'd to an

Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that

Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon

as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc'd to receive me; after which he sat

down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the

Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his

Chamber, where I found his Eminency's Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me

to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me

to my Coach.

Cardinal _Gualtieri_ receiv'd me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave

me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in

an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig'd me to be cover'd: I was

very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey'd; and in this

Situation I stay'd an Hour at least. I was charm'd with the Behaviour of

this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The

Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was

very assiduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay'd at

_Rome_. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the Cardinal _Ottoboni_,

Protector of the Affairs of _France_, whom I found in his Closet standing,

and in that Posture he remain'd all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew,

I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the

Cardinal _del Giudice_.

After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinal _del

Giudice_ introduced me to the Pope, who was at that Time _Clement_ XI. of

the _Albani_ Family. The Cardinal had an Audience of his Holiness by

himself first, and then he introduc'd me. I fell on my Knees at the Door,

according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc'd to the Middle of the

Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope

prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to

me _Aventi, Aventi_, i.e. Come forwards. I obey'd till I came to his Feet,

when I fell on my Knees and kiss'd an embroider'd Cross which was on his

Holiness's Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to

rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good

Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask'd me several Questions

relating to my Conversion, and seem'd so overjoy'd at the Grace God had

given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask'd me

News about the Sate of Religion in _Germany_, and highly extoll'd the Zeal

which the Elector _Palatine_ manifested for the Catholic Religion. He

concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been

so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss'd me, he made me a

Present of several _Agnis Dei's_, two little Medals, one of Gold the other

of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.

I stay'd at _Rome_ till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the

Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign

Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on

_Wednesday_ in the Holy Week from _Monte Cavallo_ for the _Vatican_

Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and

Officers of his Holiness's Houshold went first, who were all on Horseback

in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my

Opinion, long Gowns and flapp'd Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage

for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse

richly accouter'd, the same which was for his Holiness's Riding; but on

that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with

Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a

magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the

Pope's Chair march'd two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, and the Light-Horse

clos'd the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the

_Vatican_ Palace.

The next Day, which was Holy _Thursday_, I desir'd Cardinal _Gualtieri_ to

get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his

Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv'd at the Church,

the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the

Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I

observ'd, sat upon Stools. The Constable _Colonna_ stood near the Pope,

with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy

Father descended from his Throne, and plac'd himself in a Chair of State

which was of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope's

Livery rais'd the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry'd it in that

Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of _St. Peter_'s Church.

The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who

walk'd two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred

_Swiss_. All _St. Peter_'s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were

full of People: His Holiness's Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also

there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle,

with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear'd, there

was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly

succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order'd a Cardinal

to read the Bull of Excommunication and _Anathema_, against Heretics,

Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the

Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead

irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper,

or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading

it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry'd him lifted

him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc'd

the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into

the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments

after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition,

nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis'd would repent and do public

Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were

present, and to the whole City of _Rome_ in general, by turning himself

about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the

Cannon of the Castle of _St. Angelo_ were fir'd, and all the Bells of the

City were rung, which was accompany'd with the Sound of the Trumpets,

Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in _St.

Peter_'s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry'd back into his

Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore during the whole Ceremony, was

taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy

Sacrament and carry'd it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre,

which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope

retir'd to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the

Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being

plac'd all in a Row, dress'd in long White Robes, his Holiness wash'd

their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This

Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow'd by those Thirteen Priests, went

into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the

Priests sat down, and were serv'd by the Pope and the Cardinals. The

Chevalier _de St. George_ and his Princess were present at this Ceremony,

with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them,

he said, _I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands_: at

the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen

Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.

When the Pope was retir'd, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where

they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred

College assisted at the _Miserere_, which was sung in the great Chapel

with Instrumental Music.

Upon _Easter-Day_ the Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the

Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress'd in his Pontificalibus and the

Tiara on his Head, was carry'd in the same Manner as upon Holy _Thursday_,

to the Gallery which fronts _St. Peter_'s Square, where the Soldiers were

drawn up in Batallia, and the People on their Knees to receive the Pope's

Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge

of all the Artillery from the Castle of _St. Angelo_: Then the Pope

retir'd to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective

Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I

observ'd, that the Churches were always so throng'd, that the People were

ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the _Italians_ frequent the

Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the

excellent Music that is perform'd in them, than from any Motive of

Religion.

* * * * *

Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from _Rome_ with

several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the

famous City of NAPLES. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of

the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin,

which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises

like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover'd with Vineyards and

delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be

imagin'd. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of _St. Elmo_,

built by _Charles_ V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.

_Naples_ is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is

dedicated to _St. Januarius_; and in this Church is preserv'd the Head of

that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Glass Phyal. We are assur'd,

that every Year, upon that Saint's Festival, the very Instant that they

put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens'd, turns

Liquid. All the People of _Naples_ are Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle, and

seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may

easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout

with Gold, Silver, Marble, _&c._ and 'tis moreover adorn'd with very

beautiful Paintings.

The Viceroy's Palace is one of the noblest Structures in the World: The

Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the

same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy

has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw

any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine

Gardens, the Harbour, the Arsenal, the lofty Hills, the terrible Mount

_Vesuvius_, in short, the whole City of _Naples_, all, _Madame_,

contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy's Palace. The Person who then

enjoy'd that Dignity was the Cardinal _Schrotenbach_, not much belov'd by

the _Neapolitans_, who shew'd a very public Concern for the Loss of the

Count _de Gallas_ his Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore

to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own'd to me

ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His

Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not

please the _Neapolitans_, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom

appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often,

and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a

Nobleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any

other whatsoever; for it must be observ'd, that a _Neapolitan_ thinks

nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty of _Naples_. And to shew what a

grand Idea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That a

_Neapolitan_ Lady, at an Audience she had of the King of _Spain_, wish'd,

in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please God to make him

one Day Viceroy of _Naples_.

I found in this City the Prince _T----_, whom I knew at _Vienna_. This

Nobleman offer'd to introduce me to several Assemblies, with which he

assur'd me I should not be displeas'd. I was glad to accept of his Offer,

upon his Assurance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than

the Assemblies at _Rome_. I there made an Acquaintance with several

_Neapolitan_ Gentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so

complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most

remarkable. I was charm'd with the noble Walk, form'd by the _Cours_,

along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which

seem'd to me to have more of the _French_ Air than those of _Rome_, bating

only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had

taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was

promis'd good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the

Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The

Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the

Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but,

for Want of understanding _Italian_, I could only talk by Signs, a Method

of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir'd

nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos'd a

Match at Pharao; the Prince _T----_ offer'd to cut the Cards, and had such

a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him lose considerable

Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next

Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit.

While I stay'd at _Naples_, I could not help going to see the famous Mount

_Vesuvius_, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at

the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin'd

I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of

something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I

saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it

would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of

Temptation to it, so that I return'd but little wiser than I went: What I

remark'd in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I

heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that's all I

am able to tell you of Mount _Vesuvius_. As to the Form of this Mountain,

it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every

time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount

than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak'd Clods, calcin'd

Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so

difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued,

that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv'd that the soft Boots I

wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which

the Mountain is intirely compos'd. I was then told, that it had not cast

out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very

soon, because new Holes were discover'd in it, and that the Earth, which

visibly broke away, began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very

bad Neighbour to so considerable a City as _Naples_; yet the _Neapolitans_

don't seem to be much terrify'd at it. Indeed when the Flames actually

break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the

Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to

change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over,

than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which

they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to

set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such

faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism.

Next Day I went to see the great _Carthusian_ Church of _St. Martin_,

which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately

Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are

full of noble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and

adorn'd for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very

convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and

a little Garden to himself.

* * * * *

I went afterwards to POZZUOLI or PUTEOLI, where I saw a Road, or rather a

Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock,

and partly in the Sand: 'Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for

Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no

Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which

reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc'd to grope out the Way in

the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give

Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger

of running foul of one another.

After I had pass'd this Cavern, I found myself near that call'd _la Grotte

du Chien_, or the Dog's Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most

only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I

there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his

Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and

soon after shew'd no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of

the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which

is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover'd

his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted

for by wiser Heads than mine, I went to _Puteoli_, which in Truth has

nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can't imagine why

Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there's nothing now to

be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification.

The Impatience I had to see the famous City of _Venice_ did not permit me

to continue long at _Naples_, so that I stay'd there no longer than was

necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival

there, to the Count _de S----_, in _Sicily_; wherein I pretended, that

Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour

of joining him as soon as I wish'd; but you must know, that this was all

mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much

out of Conceit with going to serve in _Sicily_. And the Letter, which the

Count _de S----_ return'd in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he

wrote in a Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas'd to

give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a

second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of

my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the

Service so soon. From that time I determin'd to continue my Travels, and

to try my Fortune at the _Spanish_ Court, to which I had for a long while

been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as

fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest.

Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to

satisfy my Curiosity, and from _Naples_ I set out for _Venice_. I made the

best of my Way thro' several little Towns of _St. Peter's_ Patrimony, in

which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but

stopp'd at LORETTO, a little Town in the Marquisate of _Ancona_, the

Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty,

and advantagiously situate, being plac'd on a Hill, from whence is a noble

Prospect of the _Adriatic_ Sea, or Gulph of _Venice_. The Inhabitants of

_Loretto_ are all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of

Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then

there's such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the

Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads,

is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly.

You know, _Madame_, that the Business of a Pilgrimage to _Loretto_ is to

visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt,

when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of

the Saviour of the World: 'Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House

in _Italy_, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one

comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently

subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix'd

in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: It was first, they say, remov'd by Angels

from _Nazareth_, which was really its original Country, into _Dalmatia_,

where it stay'd Three Years. When that Term was expir'd, the said Angels

remov'd it a second time, and carry'd it to the Territory of _Recanati_,

in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: But as every Day produc'd some Murder or

Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm'd at such a Neighbourhood,

carry'd away the House a third time, and plac'd it some Distance from the

Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of

Friars, to whom the Ground belong'd on which the House was plac'd at that

time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the

Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth

and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this

House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very

magnificent Church, in the middle of which 'tis inclos'd. The Walls of

this Church are lin'd with white Marble, wrought in _Basso-Relievo_ by the

ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy

Virgin: There are also between double Columns of the _Corinthian_ Order

Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are

the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the

whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, which is

commonly call'd _Santa Casa_, seem'd to me to be built of Brick: 'Tis much

longer than broad: 'Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the

least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a

Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have

each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn'd with precious Stones. The whole Habit

consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider'd with Pearls and

Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a

prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness,

but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent to _Loretto_ by

the Republic of _Venice_, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the

time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State of

_Venice_.

As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform'd at _Loretto_, to

the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than

to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit the

_Santa Casa_. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls

of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin

dress'd her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer,

which, they say, was the very same that serv'd for the Holy Virgin's

Soup-Dish.

As I went out of the Church, I was carry'd to a great Room, where I saw

immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and

Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this

Room I also saw the Virgin's numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has

Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw

any thing like it. After I had well view'd this costly Wardrobe, I went

to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from

the Church. I was shew'd the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine

Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very

considerable.

When I had intirely satisfy'd my Curiosity at _Loretto_, I set out for

_Bologna_, and went by the very Gates of _Ancona_, which is a Sea-Port in

the Pope's Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told

before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din'd at

Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three

Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac'd, and I could find no

body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I

thought very ancient.

* * * * *

From thence I went to PESARO, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very

much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large

Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the

whole Duchy of _Urbino_ were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate

of _Urban_ VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was

erected in Memory of that Event.

* * * * *

From _Pesaro_ I went in a Day to RIMINI, an Episcopal City which stood

formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time,

the Sea being retir'd from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place

that _Cæsar_ took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor

_Augustus_ embellish'd it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here

at this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble

Bridge well preserv'd, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote

it was built by the Emperors _Augustus_ and _Tiberius_. All the way from

_Rimini_ to _Bologna_ I saw nothing remarkable.

* * * * *

[21]BOLOGNA is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical

State: 'Tis commonly call'd _Bologna the Fat_, because of its fruitful

Soil. 'Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very

advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of

having always at _Rome_ an Auditor pf the _Rota_, and an Ambassador; which

is punctually observ'd: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who

is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient,

but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over

the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of

_Gregory_ XIII. which is look'd upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs,

as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of _Boniface_

VIII. which is not a bad one.

As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of _Bologna_, I cannot but speak in

Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that

one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more

Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of _Italy_; and, to say all

that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in _Italy_,

'tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.

After some Stay here, I set out for _Venice_, in a Boat call'd _The

Messenger_, which goes off from _Bologna_ every Morning, or at least

several times in a Week: 'Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman

can be stow'd in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far,

but, when we were still some Miles from _Ferrara_, we found the Water was

too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc'd to go ashore, where

we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach,

almost like the Stage-Coaches of _France_. The Outside of this Vehicle was

so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides,

the Coachman seem'd to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly,

requir'd the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at

that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or

to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all

ventur'd boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me

terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro' the

most difficult Places, and carry'd us safe to _Ferrara_: But we had scarce

enter'd that City, when our Charioteer, 'tis like to shew his Skill, made

his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street;

whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one

of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn'd so

suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill'd on the

Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with

a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell'd Face for Seven or Eight

Days. My _Valet de Chambre_, who sat over-against me, had his Wrist put

out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company,

there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz'd me more than any thing

was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever

met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish'd

to have walk'd about _Ferrara_[22], but my swell'd Face hinder'd me; and

therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which

carry'd me to VENICE[23], where I arriv'd at Midnight.

I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then

took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola,

and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho' very

pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us'd to it, who often think

themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one

Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be

swallow'd up in the Canal; which indeed might very well be the Case with

Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers of _Venice_; but these

are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune.

The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated to _St.

Mark_, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn'd with Five

Portico's, of which the middle one is bigger and more spacious than the

others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Brass, said to have

formerly belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv'd for an Ornament to

the Triumphal Arch which the Senate of _Rome_ caus'd to be erected for

the Emperor _Nero_, after the Victory he gain'd over the _Parthians_. The

Emperor _Constantine_ caus'd them to be remov'd afterwards to

_Constantinople_, but the _Venetians_ brought them back again, after they

had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the

Front of the Church is adorn'd with other Statues. The Roof consists of

several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the

Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin'd throughout with Marble;

the Pavement is also of Marble of perfect _Mosaic_ Workmanship; and the

Roof is lin'd in the same manner.

From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I

took to be very irregular. The Hall where the Nobles meet, is a prodigious

large Room: The Doge's Throne, which is plac'd at one End of it, is higher

than the rest by some Steps: There the Nobles sit upon Benches fronting

the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to

pass easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the Nobles are very

plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are

worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking of _Constantinople_

by the _Venetians_; and on the other Side is the History of Pope

_Alexander_ III. and of the Emperor _Frederic Barbarossa_, with the

Pictures of the several Doges.

There is a large Square call'd _The Broglio_, before the Doge's Palace,

where the Nobles commonly take the Air; and tho' there be no Covering to

it, nor any Verdure, yet 'tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood

of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and most delightful. The

Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out

here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its

Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several

little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have

magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next

to the great Canal, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which

are the Arms of the Republic, _viz._ a Winged Lyon; and on the second is

the Statue of _St. Theodore_, the ancient Patron of the Republic.

I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing

of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no

more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the Lustre he has, is to be

at the Head of the Senate and the Nobles in all the Assemblies and

Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is

extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor,

is that which is perform'd every Year at _Venice_, upon Ascention-Day:

Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the Nobility, goes on

board a stately Vessel call'd the _Bucentaure_; and when he is advanc'd a

little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says,

_We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which

the Republic has over Thee_. And indeed, the _Venetians_ look upon the

_Adriatic Sea_ as their peculiar Property.

The _Venetian_ Nobles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modern

_Romans_ are in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all

Correspondence with any Man that keeps Company with an Ambassador; of

which I myself had Experience. As I had known _M. de Q----_ at the King of

_England_'s Court at _Hanover_, and _M. G----_ at the Court of _Vienna_, I

thought that when I saw them return'd to _Venice_, I could not do better

than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc'd into good Families. I

went to them accordingly, and was receiv'd with all possible Civility by

those Gentlemen, who next Day return'd my Visit, when I observ'd in the

Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been

taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Ambassador; and I,

for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos'd to make

a Sacrifice of the Ambassador's Family in Compliment to them. The Person

who then resided there with that Character was the Count _de Colloredo_,

at whose House there was an Assembly every Night of all the Foreigners of

most Distinction at _Venice_. He had with him the Countess of _Colloredo_,

whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her Brother _M. de

Blaspiel_, when she was the Widow of the Count _de Collonitz_. The

Ambassador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that

came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an

Aquaintance there with the Marchioness _de R----_, Daughter of the

celebrated _Madame de M----_. This Lady had left the Court of _France_ and

her Family, and, after having travell'd thro' several Countries, came and

settled at _Venice_. I confess I was heartily concern'd to see a Lady, who

must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc'd, by a natural Uneasiness

of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a

Life.

While I stay'd at _Venice_, the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_ came and

spent a few Days there. The _Venetians_ made several Entertainments for

him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the _Venetian_ Ladies in all

their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them;

for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within

Doors, so that 'tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the

Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of _Modena_ stay'd

at _Venice_, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of

Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz'd at the magnificent

Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to

the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always

in the Dress of the _Italians_. They were very constant at the Balls which

were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas'd to see how

fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain'd him with a

Diversion call'd the _Regatte_, which is a Contention of small Vessels to

out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided

into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish'd from one another by

little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is

conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn'd with very fine

Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress'd

after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the

Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of

_Modena_ seem'd to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few

Days after it, he set out from _Venice_. I thought also of proceeding in

my Travels thro' _Italy_, and went to _Padua_ with the same Gondoliers

that had serv'd me while I stay'd at _Venice_.

* * * * *

[24]PADUA is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more

ancient, they say, than _Rome_ and _Venice_. 'Tis thought to have been

founded by _Antenor_ the _Trojan_ Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen

there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb,

_Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe_, i. e. _Bologne_ the _Fat_, but

_Padua_ the _Fatter_. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took

such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great

Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The

Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but

I thought the Churches of _St. Anthony_ and _St. Justina_ really

magnificent.

The first, where lies the Body of _St. Anthony_, is fac'd with

_Basso-Relievo's_ of white Marble, representing the principal Miracles

wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn'd, and illuminated with

Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.

_St. Justina_'s Church, tho' far inferior to _St. Anthony_'s in point of

Magnificence, is one of the finest in all _Italy_. The High Altar is, in

all respects, a finish'd Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are

also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of

a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn'd with

_Basso-Relievo's_, representing the Prophecies contain'd in the Old

Testament relating to _Jesus Christ_; and the fulfilling of them in the

New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six

Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I

went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the

largest in _Europe_, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof

is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to

support it; but the Fault of it is 'tis pretty dark, though I know not

what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such

that it might be procur'd for a very small Charge.

From _Padua_ I went to _Modena_, by the Way of _Ferrara_ and _Bologna_.

The Soil of _Padua_ being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had

as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to _Ferrara_, where I took

Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to _Bologna_. The very

Day that I arriv'd at the latter, I set out for _Modena_, to which is a

very plain Road thro' a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted

at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.

* * * * *

MODENA is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in

which _Mark Anthony_ besieg'd _Brutus_, after the Murder of _Cæsar_. The

Dukes of _Modena_ are of the Family of _Est_, and depend on the Empire. I

had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv'd

me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for

the Empress _Leonora_, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv'd me standing: As

soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc'd me to put

on mine, talk'd kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well

satisfy'd with my Audience.

As I had no Design to stay long at _Modena_, I did but glance over the

several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either

sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller's Regard. The Streets of

_Modena_ are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav'd, the Street of the _Course_

being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke's Palace will be grand and

magnificent when finish'd; as much as I saw of it carry'd up, being

sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke's

Apartments are spacious and richly furnish'd: There was one of them

fitting up for _Madamoiselle de Valois_, the Daughter of the Duke of

_Orleans_ the Regent, now the Princess of _Modena_, who they expected

would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a

Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be.

This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life

they live at the Court of _Modena_, to which none can compare for

Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is

enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it

from so gay a Court as that of _France_. In short, the Life of the Court

of _Modena_ is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and

dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the

Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are

in Bed. This, _Madame_, is the common Custom at the Court of _Modena_; at

least they liv'd thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess

perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetition of the same

thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign

Court.

* * * * *

From _Modena_ I went to REGGIO, a City and Bishoprick between _Parma_ and

_Modena_. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some

Resemblance with ours at _Francfort_ and _Leipsic_. I have been told, that

during these Fairs there's always a noble Opera perform'd in this Town.

* * * * *

From _Reggio_ I struck into the Road to PARMA, an Episcopal City, and

Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile,

and the Dome is adorn'd with Paintings, which are much admir'd by the best

Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear'd to me to be large and very

well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and

there's a good Number of Nobility here, but they live so much after the

_Italian_ manner, that 'tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with

them.

The Court of _Parma_ is but little, if any thing, gayer than that of

_Modena_: I was perfectly well receiv'd by the then Duke, _viz._ _Francis

Farnese_, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the

Catholic Church, had marry'd his Brother's Widow. This Princess is call'd

_Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by

her first Husband _Elizabeth Farnese_, the present Queen of _Spain_: She

having no Issue by her second, the Duchy of _Parma_, by the Death of Duke

_Francis_ _Feb. 22, 1727_, devolv'd to his Brother _Anthony Farnese_, who

marry'd _Henrietta_ Princess of _Modena_. As there is Reason to believe

that this Marriage too will prove sterile, the famous _Farnese_ Family,

which owes its Advancement to _Paul_ III. will be extinct in this

_Anthony_. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the

Pontificate, gave the Investiture of the Dominions of _Parma_ and

_Placentia_ to _Lewis Farnese_ his Bastard, who marry'd a Bastard Daughter

of the Emperor _Charles_ V. yet this double Bastardy has not been a Bar to

the matching of this with the chief Families in _Europe_.

* * * * *

I stay'd Three Days at _Parma_, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pass'd

thro' PIACENZA or PLACENTIA, so call'd from its pleasant Situation; Nature

having not form'd a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City

and _Parma_: Here is a very fine Castle, and a noble Square, in which is

the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho'

indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so

thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall

walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul.

I stay'd but a Day at _Piacensa_, and went directly to MILAN, the capital

City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: 'Tis one of the most

beautiful Cities in all _Italy_, and the most magnificent in Buildings,

both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next to _St. Peter_'s

at _Rome_, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin'd: 'Tis all

white Marble within and without, and there's a great Number of Statues of

the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are

each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth

visiting, its Situation being so advantagious, that one sees several

Cities from it, and a good Part of _Lombardy_.

There are several other noble Churches, of which I don't propose to give

you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise

richly furnish'd; for the _Milanese_ Gentry love Magnificence: Their

Apartments have a certain grand and noble Air, which the _Italians_ for

most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable:

There's an Assembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all

Places there's great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amusement; some

chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over,

and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive, _Madame_, by what I

have already said of _Milan_, that 'tis a very agreeable Place to live in:

I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of the _Milanese_, which

is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in

the Temper of the _Italians_, that I cannot imagine how they escape it.

You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions than

_Milan_: It has been besieg'd 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never

worse treated than it was by the Emperor _Frederic_ I. surnam'd

_Barbarossa_. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus'd it to be

demolish'd, and sow'd it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar'd. The

Duchy of _Milan_, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many

Sovereigns, has always prov'd a Source of Wars for _Italy_: You have read

no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail'd

upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns of _Charles_

V. and _Francis_ I. King of _France_. The latter having demanded the

_Milanese_ for his second Son the Duke of _Orleans_, the Emperor promis'd

to give him the Investiture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his

Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred

an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended

more than once, but 'twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated

each other as long as they liv'd.

* * * * *

After I had stay'd awhile at _Milan_, I set out for the Court of _Savoy_.

The first City I stopped at was CASAL, formerly one of the strongest and

most important Fortresses in _Italy_: The Citadel especially was by all

good Judges look'd upon as one of the Wonders of the World. _Lewis_ XIV.

who had Possession of it for a long time, caus'd such fortifications to be

made there, as are hardly to be match'd. That Monarch observing the

Bigness of the Buildings, caus'd an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to

be made, which form'd a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now

there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications

both of the City and Citadel having been demolish'd in 1695, according to

a Capitulation made between the _Germans_ and the _French_, when the

former made themselves Masters of the Place.

_Casal_ belong'd heretofore to the Dukes of _Mantua_, but now, by the

Emperor's Grant thereof, it belongs to the King of _Sardinia_.

* * * * *

I went in one Day from _Casal_ to[25]TURIN, the capital City of

_Piedmont_, the See of an Archbishop, and the chief Seat of the Duke of

_Savoy_. 'Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the

Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and

intermingled with noble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the

strongest that can be imagin'd, every Part of it being countermin'd. There

is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho' very deep, is so

contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting

one another: This is perform'd by means of a double Stair-case without

Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy.

The Entrance into _Turin_ thro' the new Gate gives one a grand Idea of the

City: We come first into a great and very long Street, the Houses of which

are all of the same Architecture: About the middle of it is the Square of

_St. Charles_, which is encompass'd with Houses perfectly uniform, which

would make a much more grand Appearance, if the Piazza's, that run round

it, were but higher. After one has pass'd the Square of _St. Charles_, the

same new Street brings us to a second Square, that fronts the King's

Palace, on the Right Hand of which stands the Palace where liv'd _Madame

Royale_, the King's Mother: These Two Palaces have a Communication with

each other by a Gallery.

There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King's Palace, but then

the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish'd, and here's a

great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The

Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a

double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the

Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief; tho' this Chapel be

a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the

Palace, because the King always hears Mass there. I thought it a very

gloomy Place, undoubtedly because 'tis lin'd with black Marble of a

greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Brass nor Gilding to enliven all

this Black. I ask'd, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble

preferably to any other; and was told, that 'twas in Remembrance of the

Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv'd

over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Mass at it

together, without seeing or interrupting one another.

On one Side of the King's Palace stands, as I had the Honour to tell you,

the Palace of _Madame Royale_ the King's Mother. This Building was very

inconsiderable heretofore, the Apartments being very plain, and the only

Stair-case leading to it extremely incommodious: But _Madame Royale_, who

did not value Money, caus'd great Alterations to be made in it: Among

other Embellishments she built one intire Front, for the Sake of having

one of the finest Stair-cases to it in the World; for which Reason they

say now, _That here's a Stair-case without a Palace_, as they said before,

_That 'twas a Palace without a Stair-case_. Indeed the rest of the

Building is by no means answerable to the Magnificence of the Front and

the Stair-case; yet, as mean an Appearance as it makes without, the

Apartments within are magnificent; for look which way soever, one sees

nothing but Marble, noble Gilding, Paintings by the greatest Masters,

Pier-Glasses of a wonderful Size and Beauty, and other very rich

Furniture. This Palace had only one Garden to it, which was encompass'd on

the Three Sides by Streets and very fine Squares: The Back-Part look'd

towards that call'd the Street of the _Po_, which is one of the finest in

_Turin_.

The Royal Family consisted first and foremost of King _Victor Amadeus_,

who marry'd a Granddaughter of _France_, nam'd _Anna-Maria_ of _Orleans_,

Daughter of _Philip_ Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. and to

_Henrietta_ of _England_, by whom he has had Two Princes and Two

Princesses: The first of the Princes was _Philip-Joseph_, who dy'd the 22d

of _March_, 1715, at 15 Years of Age: The second, who is the present King

by the Resignation of the King his Father, is _Charles-Emanuel_, who

marry'd first _Anne-Christina_ of _Sultzbach_, and his second Wife was

_Polyxena_ of _Hesse Rhinfels_.

The Two Princesses were _Mary-Adelaide_ of _Savoy_, (marry'd to the Duke

of _Burgundy_, Dauphin of _France_, Father of _Lewis_ XV.) who dy'd the

12th of _February_, 1712: And _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_, (the first Wife of

_Philip_ V. the present King of _Spain_) who dy'd the 14th of _February_,

1714.

The Queen was still living while I was at _Turin_: She was one of the most

courteous Princesses in the World, lov'd dearly to converse with her

Courtiers, and was perfectly civil to Foreigners that had the Honour to be

introduc'd to her: She dy'd the 26th of _August_, 1728.

_Madame Royale_ the King's Mother was very ancient; yet 'twas easy to

discover, that she had once her Share of Beauty, and she had still a fine

Shape and a majestic Air, in Spite of her great Age.

The first Prince of the Blood of the _Savoy_ Family is _Victor Amedeus_,

the Prince of _Carignan_: This Prince happen'd not to be at _Turin_ when

I was there, his Affairs having requir'd his Presence for some time in

_France_: I had the Honour of paying my Compliments to the Princess his

Consort, who, you know, is the King's Daughter, by the Countess of

_Verrue_. Before her Marriage she went by the Title of _Madamoseille de

Suza_: This Princess is indeed not very tall, but she is a perfect Beauty,

the Features of her Face, which are regular, being improv'd moreover by a

fair clear Complexion. All these external Perfections are supported

likewise by the best Sense and a generous Soul: She is so good-natur'd, so

civil, and has such a happy manner of expressing herself, as wins the

Hearts at the same time as it procures the Respect of those that hear her:

She has a Vivacity of Temper, which charms, and a Generosity, which is not

confin'd to Words only; and she is never better pleas'd, than when she has

an Opportunity of doing Service: This, _Madame_, is not a feign'd

Character, for I say no more than what I was Eye-Witness of myself, and

what the whole City of _Turin_ said of this Princess: And I saw with what

Regret they parted with her, when she set out to see her Husband at

_Paris_, which she did while I was at _Turin_.

I was a constant Attendant at Court to pay my Duty to the King and all the

Royal Family: The Time that one had the Honour of speaking to his Majesty

was commonly when he went from Mass, for it was very rare to see him the

rest of the Day. After this the Company us'd to go to the Prince of

_Piedmont_'s Apartment, which was over the King's; but one had not the

Pleasure of waiting on that Prince so often or so long as it were to be

wish'd, because he was then very much taken up with his Studies: The best

time to see him was in the Evening, when he came to the Queen's

Drawing-Room, which was open'd about 6 or 7 o'Clock: Then the Ladies came

in their Court Dress, and were admitted into the Queen's Chamber, where a

Chair of State was plac'd between Two Rows of Stools: The Queen came out

of her Closet with the Princesses, and as soon as she was in Reach of her

Chair, she made a Curtesy to the Right and Left, and then sate down: The

Princesses also seated themselves in Folding Chairs; but the Ladies stood

behind the Princesses, and the Gentlemen behind the Ladies: The Queen,

after a Conversation with the Princesses and the Ladies, arose, paid her

Compliments again to the Right and Left, and then retir'd; tho' sometimes

she stopp'd in the same Chamber, to talk to such Ladies or Gentlemen as

she had a Mind to distinguish.

From the Queen's Drawing-Room the Company went to the Apartment of _Madame

Royale_. This Princess had a Drawing-Room in the same manner as the Queen,

only with this Difference, that the Prince of _Piedmont_ was not there,

and that after it was over, her Royal Highness permitted those Persons

that she had a Mind to honour, to follow her into her Bedchamber, where

she talk'd a long time with them, being supported all the while by one of

her Equerries.

After her Drawing-Room was over, there was no other Person of the Royal

Family to be seen more for that Night, and then the Nobility us'd to

repair to the Princess of _Villa-Franca_'s Assembly, where there was

Variety of Gaming: There were always several Tables for Ombre, Pharo,

Lansquenet, _&c._ and I play'd there with Fortune very much on my Side, as

I had done ever since I had been in _Italy_, where Gaming, in short, had

defray'd all my Expences; insomuch that when I got to the other Side of

the Mountains, I found that I was still a Gainer by about 200 Pistoles.

I found a great many Foreigners in the Service of the King of _Sardinia_:

The Commander of his Forces was _M. de Rhebinder_, a _Swede_, who gave

Foreigners a complete Reception, and his House was one of the best in

_Turin_. _M. de Schulembourg_, whose Family you know perfectly well, was a

Lieutenant-General: This Nobleman being a _Lutheran_, had obtain'd Leave

to have a Chaplain of his own Religion. I shall not mention the other

foreign Officers to you, because I had no particular Acquaintance with

them.

Before I leave _Turin_, I fancy you will not be displeas'd with some

Account of the King's Houshold, which tho' not numerous, is very

magnificent. His Majesty has Three Companies of Life-Guards, which are

distinguish'd by the Names of _Sardinia_, _Savoy_, and _Piedmont_, and are

very well cloath'd. The King has a considerable Number of Pages, who are

brought up much more carefully than at our _German_ Courts, where one very

often forgets that the Pages are Gentlemen. Their Livery is Scarlet, with

a blue and white Velvet Lace.

The Prince of _Piedmont_ was serv'd by the King's Officers.

The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a

Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cashier'd, and they

talk'd of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry'd, to

attend the Queen's Person in their room.

_Madame Royale_ had also her Houshold and her Guards. As she was naturally

fond of Splendor, all her Court made a very gay Appearance. She had

likewise in her Service the same Number of Ladies and Maids of Honour as

the Queen had.

There happen'd an Adventure at the Court of her Royal Highness which made

a very great Noise. Among this Princess's Maids of Honour, who were all

very amiable, there was one that so far excell'd the rest, that her Beauty

engag'd her a great many Admirers from all Parts. Among others that

enter'd the Lists, was a young _Piedmontese_, whom I knew full well. He

was a very handsome lively Man, but a mere Rattle; so that after having

set all Engines at work to carry his Point, and sigh'd a long time, he

found himself just as far advanc'd as the first Day that he began.

However, this young Lover was not dishearten'd, but continu'd his

Addresses with a Constancy which really deserv'd some Regard; but whether

'twas owing to Virtue, or perhaps to the Fear of disgusting some favourite

Lover, the Damsel remain'd inflexible. The _Piedmontese_ being thus

rebuff'd, thought he was bound in Honour not to survive such Treatment;

but in so critical an Affair he resolv'd to do nothing rashly. He believ'd

that when the cruel Fair One saw the Despair into which she had cast him,

and the dreadful Extreme to which he was reduc'd, it might engage her to

treat him with less Severity; but it happen'd quite otherwise, insomuch

that the silly young Fellow having declar'd in plain Terms that he would

kill himself if he was to suffer Martyrdom any longer, the Damsel answer'd

him very indifferently, _Kill yourself if you will_, _what's that to me?_

This Expression, indeed, made the young _Piedmontese_ not so desirous to

be his own Executioner as he pretended; but nevertheless he was resolv'd

to frighten his Mistress, and leaving her very abruptly, he went and

fill'd a Bladder with Blood, and putting it very artfully under his Shirt,

he return'd to the Damsel, and threaten'd even to destroy himself in her

Presence, if she persisted in her Refusal of his Addresses. The Answer he

received being much of the same kind with the former, he cry'd out in a

Passion, _What, will you have my Life, Mademoiselle? Well then, so be it_:

At the same Instant he drew his Sword, and having prick'd the Bladder, he

fell down as if he was a dead Man; Upon this the Damsel gave a dreadful

Shriek, and Help came immediately. The great Effusion of Blood was

terrifying at the first Sight; but when the young Spark was set upon his

Legs, 'twas quickly perceiv'd by his Countenance, that the Sacrifice he

had made did not cost him very dear. The worse Luck for him, it happen'd

that _Madame Royale_ was inform'd of it that very Instant; for the

Tragi-Comedy being presently divulg'd in her Antichamber, that Princess,

in order to teach the Puppy not to fail hereafter in the Respect due to

Princes, caus'd him to be committed to a Castle not far from _Turin_,

where he was for about Two Years a Prisoner.

* * * * *

From _Turin_ I went the same Day to the Foot of Mount _Cenis_. I saw

nothing remarkable all the Way, except the Town of SUSA, in which were

formerly kept the Titles and Charters of the House of _Savoy_; but the

Emperor _Frederic_ I. set Fire to it, and burnt them all.

At a little Distance from _Susa_ is a Fortress call'd LA BRUNETTE, which

is worth the Traveller's Notice: It commands the Passage of the _Alps_,

which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for the _French_ to

pass than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of Mount

_Cenis_, I prepared to pass that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I

dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules;

after which I plac'd myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were

reliev'd every now-and-then by Two others, carry'd me over it in Five

Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp'd, in hopes of discovering

a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine

rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of

Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh

themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being

situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least

Nine Months in the Year, cover'd with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that

no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho' the People upon the

Skirts of it are not to be trusted.

* * * * *

After I had been over Mount _Cenis_, I went to _Lanebourg_, the first

Village in _Savoy_, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon

as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26] CHAMBERY, the Capital of

_Savoy_. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the Rivers

_Laise_ and _Albans_. 'Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of

Fifteen Senators and Four Presidents, which is oblig'd for its

Institution to _Amedeus_ VIII. Duke of _Savoy_.

* * * * *

From _Chambery_ I went to GENEVA, a little Republic, which is an Ally of

the _Swiss_ Cantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the

Sovereignty, as the Republic of _Venice_ does that of the _Adriatic_ Sea.

This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment of _Geneva_, which is

built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it

looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty

Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a noble Plain,

Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form'd by a very long

Mall: On each Side are the Mountains of _Savoy_, the Tops of which being

cover'd with Snow, form a very agreeable View.

'Tis true, that as to the _Genevese_, the Situation of their City would be

much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin'd; or, at

least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a

Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes,

they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic

only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will

not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these

People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable

Expence in fortifying the Place, tho' for what Reason I cannot imagine;

since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attack _Geneva_, and

the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig'd to

surrender, whether fortify'd or not. I should have thought it better to

have employ'd the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in

embellishing their City, and to have contented themselves with the old

Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time

for receiving Succours in case of an Attack.

I went to see the Arsenal, which appear'd to me to be well furnish'd, and

they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all

Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may

demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet

notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it

should be.

The _Genevese_ have the Reputation of being rich, and not without

Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is

either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of

Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are

not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff

and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which

forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for

fear, 'tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov'd the Ruin of the

_Roman_ Republic, should be equally destructive to their petty State.

The Senate of _Geneva_ commonly assembles in their Town-House, opposite to

which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the

Senators go in or out of the Assembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon

these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on

the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left.

The Town-House has nothing very remarkable, every thing being very plain.

In the great Hall I observ'd the Figures of Queen _Anne_ of _England_,

_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, _Frederic William_ the Great Elector of

_Brandenbourg_, and the Landgrave of _Hesse-Cassel_; which are all so many

Proofs of those Princes Communion with the _Genevese_. You know that they

are all of the _Calvinist_ Religion, and very careful not to suffer any

other Sect to herd with them. The _Lutherans_ have a little Chamber there,

which serves for their Church, they being expresly forbid to build one. As

for the _Roman Catholics_, they are look'd upon at _Geneva_ to be all

Idolaters; insomuch that the late King of _France_ had much ado to get

Leave for Mass to be said at his Resident's House: The _Genevese_

Ministers at the Time that _Lewis_ XIV. caus'd this Demand to be made of

the Republic, employ'd all their Engines to hinder its being granted; but

all their Measures were in vain: and they were given to understand, that

it would be imprudent to disoblige so great a Prince.

The Reverend Gentlemen their Ministers make so considerable a Figure in

the State, that I must just mention them. They are reverenc'd as so many

Bishops; every one of them in his respective Pulpit issues his Mandate,

and decides Matters of Faith in the Dernier Resort: But tho' they are all

of the same Religion, they are some times very different from one another

in Opinion. Nevertheless, be they ever so divided one among another, they

join hand in hand when they have a Mind to inveigh against the Pope, the

Court of _Rome_, the Bishops, and especially the Jesuits; for they can't

endure the latter: And 'tis rare for a Minister to be so much Master of

his Temper, as to keep strictly to his Text, without rambling from it to

lash those Fryars.

As to the Gentlemen of the Government, it must be confess'd they are very

charitable. They have caus'd a magnificent Hospital to be built, on which

they have settled great Revenues, and where the Poor are very well

maintain'd. Here poor Passengers are admitted for one Day, and, after

having been entertain'd with Lodging and Food, are dismiss'd the next Day,

with some Money in their Pockets to proceed in their journey. This same

Hospital serves also for a House of Correction for loose young Fellows and

Women, over whom the Police at _Geneva_ carries a very strict Hand. I wish

I could say as much of the Trading Part of this City, who it may be are

very civil People; but the Dispute I had with one of the most eminent of

them, makes me very much suspect their Honesty; and this was what gave me

an Opportunity to know a little of the Character of the Tradesmen of

_Geneva_. 'Tis true, that I had nothing to do but with one of them; but as

I was recommended to him alone, as a Man of the greatest Integrity in

_Geneva_, I think I do not judge rashly of all the rest, by laying no more

Dishonesty to their Charge than what I met with in this so much applauded

Banker.

When I was preparing to quit _Geneva_, I had about the Value of 400

Pistoles, Part old Species and Part _Spanish_ Pistoles; but I heard at the

same time, that such Pieces were prohibited to pass in _France_, and

therefore I was advis'd to get rid of them, and to take Bills of Exchange

for them upon _Lyons_. I made no Hesitation to comply with this Advice,

and went to find out the Man that was recommended to me for the honestest

Banker in all _Geneva_. As Bills began at that time to sink very much in

Credit, I bargain'd with him, that I should not be put off at _Lyons_,

upon any Pretence whatever, with any thing less than ready Money. As all

this was only verbal, the Banker made me the most solemn Promise, and

back'd it with an Oath, that it should be as I would have it. Relying on

Promises, which were in Appearance so authentic, I told down my Money, and

when he took it, he added, That if the Banker at _Lyons_ should happen to

refuse me Specie, I need only send him back his Bill of Exchange, and I

might depend on being paid in ready Money. Not doubting of this honest

Man's Sincerity, I set out from _Geneva_ with his Bill of Exchange, and a

small matter of Money that I had reserv'd, just to bear my Expences on the

Road. As soon as I came to _Lyons_, I went to the Banker to whom the

_Genevese_ directed me, and presented my Bill of Exchange, for which I saw

he was going to give me Paper; but I immediately refus'd to be paid in

that sort of Coin, and told him the Agreement I had made at _Geneva_. He

said to me, that he was not oblig'd to stand to an Agreement which he was

no ways privy to, and advis'd me to send back my Bill to _Geneva_. I took

his Advice, and wrote to my Banker, that what we had agreed upon would not

be comply'd with; but he was so tedious in returning me an Answer, that I

thought once I should have had neither Money nor Bills, and that by

consequence my Case would have been very melancholy, the little Sum I had

reserv'd for my Journey to _Lyons_ being soon spent. However, at Three

Weeks End the _Genevese_ Banker sent back my Bill of Exchange, and

stiffly deny'd that he had made any other Bargain with me, than that I

should be paid in the Current Money, which was Bills. I plainly perceiv'd

that there was no Remedy but Submission, therefore I took the Bills and

set out Post from _Lyons_ for _Paris_.

I found great Alterations in this City since I was here last. The Peace

with _Spain_ was establish'd: Most of the Prisoners that had been

concern'd in the Prince of _Cellamare_'s Affair, were then at Liberty:

Some, indeed, that were the most guilty, or the most useless to the State,

had been banish'd the Kingdom; and the greatest Part were retir'd to

_Spain_, where I saw some of them in such a poor Plight, that they wish'd

themselves again in the _Bastille_, where they were at least well fed.

The Duke Regent, for his Part, after having thus pacify'd some Persons to

whom his Authority gave Umbrage, had made Provision also for the

Establishment of some of his Daughters. For the One he had provided the

Abbey of _Chelles_, upon the Resignation of _Madame de Villars_, who was

the Abbess. The Second, who was call'd _Madamoiselle de Valois_, had been

just marry'd to the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_, and set out with a

Paraphernalia more grand than what is given to the Daughters of _France_.

The same Honours were paid to her upon the Road, as are commonly paid to

the Daughters of the King; and that there might be Substance answerable

to all this Splendor, the Duke of _Modena_ had bargain'd for a very

considerable Portion, payable in the Species of _Italy_, rather than be

expos'd to all the Revolutions of the _French_ Coin; in which that Prince

made a wise Bargain, for every Day was remarkable for one _Arret_ or

other relating to the Species. Nevertheless, those _Arrets_ did not look

as if they would be long in Force; at least, the Thing which they had

principally in View, absolutely came to nothing. There being therefore no

Gold nor Silver of which they could lower the Value, it was thought

expedient to touch the only Species left, I mean the Bank Bills, which in

their Turn were subject to various Revolutions, that were of the worse

Consequence to those wretched Effect; because, as they had no intrinsic

Value, they might very easily relapse into their original Nothing. They

say, that the Disaster which befel these Bills, was owing to Mr. _Law_'s

Enemies, who envy'd the Credit which they saw this Foreigner had with the

Regent; and of this nothing was a greater Demonstration than the

Difficulty they had to succeed in their Undertaking. But at length they

brought their Designs to bear; and after having remonstrated several

times, but always to no Purpose, that the Bills did a considerable Injury

to Trade; that several Merchants were oblig'd to shut up their Shops,

because 'twas impossible to trade without Money; that private People,

whose Substance lay intirely in Annuities, being paid off in Bills, could

not subsist long, since Tradesmen would not accept of those Bills for more

than the Value express'd upon them: In fine, the Regent being quite

wearied out with the continual Solicitations of these Remonstrants,

yielded to their Importunity, and consented to the suppressing of the

Bills. But as it was very evident that it would be impossible to annul

them all at once, it was resolv'd to do it by Degrees: Therefore, on the

21st of _May_, there came out an _Arret_, which lower'd the Bills from

_10 per Cent. per Month_, to one half of their Value. This _Arret_

occasion'd some Tumult; all _Paris_ was ready to rise in Arms, and so

great was the Throng of People one pay to the Bank, that several were

stifled in the Crowd, whose Bodies were carry'd by the mutinous Mob to the

Court of the Royal Palace. Mr. _Law_, to whom they ow'd a Grudge for

having given the Hint of so pernicious a Project, did not dare to shew his

Head. In short, the Ferment seem'd to work so strong, that the Regent

plainly perceiv'd 'twas impossible, at that Juncture, to inforce the

_Arret_ that had been newly issued; and chose to have it revok'd, in hopes

of regaining the Confidence of the Public. But it was intirely lost, every

one deserted the Bank; and notwithstanding the Menaces given out, that the

Species would be lower'd, People rather chose to keep their Money, which

would be always worth something, than to incumber themselves with Bills,

which, whenever the Prince took the Whim, would only be attended with the

melancholy Reflection by the Possessors, that they were once well to pass.

In Fact, notwithstanding the Revocation of the _Arret_, the Bills sunk

considerably every Day. Then it was that the Term of _Realising_ became

the favourite Word of the Time, that is to say, when the Generality of

private Men, who had any Bills, endeavour'd to exchange them, not for

Money, which at that Time seem'd to be bury'd again in the Earth, from

whence its Original was dug, but for real Effects: Some bought Diamonds,

others Plate, some Merchandize: In short, every wise Man got rid of his

Paper; and even the Nobility turn'd Merchants: Particularly one of them,

who was of the first Rank[27], had a considerable Warehouse stor'd with

Coffee, Wax-Candles, Grocery-Wares, and the like Goods, to sell again. The

Parliament took Cognisance of these Acquisitions, but his only Punishment

was the Mortification he receiv'd from those Gentlemen; and he was left in

Possession of the Grocery-Wares, Coffee, _&c._

At this very critical Time, when the Bills were reduc'd, did I arrive at

_Paris_; which City was then like a Wood for harbouring Robbers and

Murderers; and, in Fact, the Ease of carrying the Fortunes of a great many

People in a Pocket-Book was a great Temptation to Thieves: Moreover,

notwithstanding the Scarcity of Money, Luxury, Debauchery and Gaming were

arriv'd at the highest Pitch, and young Deboshees were guilty of the most

shocking Enormities to satisfy their Extravagance: To this Purpose I was

told a Story, that about the End of _Lent_ 1721, the Count _de Horn_, a

young Nobleman, related to the chief Families in _Europe_, was one of

Three that basely murder'd a poor Wretch, who got his Livelihood by

negociating Shares and Bills for other People: As this Man's Letter-Case

seem'd to be full of Effects, that must amount to a considerable Sum, the

Count appointed him to come to a Tavern in _St. Martin_'s Street, on

Pretence of buying some Shares of him; when he came, he took him into a

Back-Room, which he had bespoke for the Purpose; and just as he was

opening his Letter-Case upon the Table, the Count and Two Comrades threw a

Cloth over his Head, and then cruelly stabb'd him with Daggers: The

unhappy Man made such a Noise while they were in the Act of murdering him,

that it brought some body up Stairs, but they had taken Care to fasten

the Chamber-Door in the Inside, so that 'twas impossible to enter it, and

the Count and his Accomplices made their Escape out of a Window, that

look'd into a little Street on one Side of the Tavern, from whence, tho'

they were in the second Story, they got down very easily, by the Favour of

some Beams, which were laid across the Street to support the Two Houses:

The Count's Comrades thought of nothing less than flying their Country,

but there was only one of them that was so fortunate as to get into

foreign Parts, the other was apprehended about the Fish-Market, and

carry'd before a Commissary. The Count, on his Part, instead of

endeavouring to make his Escape, went and complain'd to a Commissary, of

an Attempt that had been made to assassinate him: His wild Stare and his

bloody Hand and Ruffles made the Commissary suspect there was something

more than ordinary in this Complaint, and he desir'd that he would carry

him to the Place where he said that he ran such a Risque of his Life;

which he scrupling to do, the Commissary sent for the Archers to carry him

thither by Force. The Count, before he set out, desir'd Leave to step

aside, to ease himself from the Impression, which he pretended the Danger

had made upon him; but, as it came out afterwards, it was only to drop the

Letter-Case, of which he had robb'd the Stockjobber, into the Privy: This

done, he set out with the Commissary, and the Truth of the Fact was soon

discover'd; for the Vintner having caus'd the Room to be broke open, the

Sight of the Corpse and the bloody Daggers were so many Evidences of the

Count's Guilt, who was thereupon committed Prisoner to the _Chatelet_,

try'd the following Week, and condemn'd, together with his Accomplice, to

be broke alive upon the Wheel in the Place _de Greve_; which Sentence was

executed accordingly on the _Tuesday_ in the Holy Week. While he was yet a

Prisoner, all the foreign Nobility at _Paris_ labour'd hard to obtain his

Pardon, or at least that he might only be beheaded; to the end that the

Infamy of his Punishment on the Wheel might not be cast as a Reproach upon

his Family: But the Duke Regent made no other Answer, than that the Count

was as near akin to him as he was to them, but that 'twas the Crime, and

not the Punishment, that brought a Stain upon Families: The Count _de

Horn_ made a truly Christian Exit; for the religious Principles, which he

had once imbib'd from an Education suitable to his Birth, but which he had

the Misfortune to stifle, reviv'd at this dreadful Crisis; and made him

submit to dye with a Resignation which we seldom see in Persons that come

to such a violent Death.

The Fall of the Bills was not the only Misfortune that _France_ labour'd

under; for it was visited at the same time by a Pestilence: I was one Day

at the Duke Regent's Levee, when he himself declar'd the melancholy News,

that at _Marseilles_ there was a Plague: This at first struck a sensible

Damp upon People, but 'twas quickly forgot, and they abandon'd themselves

more than ever to Pleasures, Feasting, Gallantry, _&c._ Gaming indeed was

not carry'd to that Height as usual, because it could not be done without

ready Money, the Bills having no Credit then, except what was forc'd; but

as to Trade, it decay'd every Day more and more; and the Merchants, who

had so long stiffly refus'd the Bank Bills, were nevertheless soon oblig'd

to accept them, being sensible, that if they rejected them any longer,

they should be under a Necessity, either to make no more Sales, or to sell

upon Credit; which was an Alternative equally destructive of Trade, which

is only to be supported by the Circulation of Species, or at least by

something equivalent.

Humanity, and the Concern I had for the Fate of my Friends, made me a

Sharer in the public Calamities; but for the rest, I pass'd my Time well

enough: I went to an Estate of a Friend of mine near _Orleans_, where I

spent about Six Weeks, and then return'd to _Paris_, where I stay'd no

longer than just to make due Preparation for my Tour to _Spain_: I

travell'd by the way of _Lyons_ and _Languedoc_, purely for the Pleasure

of seeing several of my Friends, who had Estates in those Places, and from

_Lyons_ I proceeded to _Vienne_ in _Dauphine_: From thence I repass'd the

_Rhosne_, and travelling thro' the _Vivarese_, I went to an Estate near

_Nismes_, that belong'd to a Friend of mine, with whom I stay'd a Month:

At _Nismes_ I went to take a View of the famous Amphitheatres, which are

the precious Remains of the _Roman_ Antiquities.

* * * * *

From _Nismes_ I went to MONTPELIER, which in my Opinion is one of the most

agreeable Cities in the World; and where, next to _Paris_, there's the

most good Company: The Situation of it is charming, it being not far from

the Sea, and encompass'd with very fertile Fields, that form a very

charming Prospect. The Houses are not well built, but are all very neat

within, and well furnish'd: The Streets are so narrow, that 'tis difficult

to pass them with an Equipage, so that Gentlemen commonly make Use of

Sedans: The Out-parts of the Town are very pleasant, especially towards

the Sea. In this Part is a great Square, in Form of a Terrace, surrounded

with Trees, in the middle of which is a magnificent Equestrian Statue of

_Lewis_ XIV. on a great Pedestal of white Marble: The Connoisseurs say,

'tis a complete Piece in all its Parts.

* * * * *

After having spent some Days at _Montpelier_, I proceeded towards

_Toulouse_: I went first thro' BEZIERS, an Episcopal City, the Situation

of which is so pleasant, that 'tis become a common Proverb, _If God were

to chuse his Residence upon Earth, he would certainly chuse_ Beziers. 'Tis

even said, that the Inhabitants of the Country, the Gentry especially,

have more Sense and Conduct than they have elsewhere: Yet, at different

Courts, I have seen several Persons, Natives of this City, who were really

so stupid, that the Notion I have of the Inhabitants of _Beziers_ is the

very contrary of what they would fain make me believe.

* * * * *

From _Beziers_ I travell'd to CASTELNAUDARI, in the Neighbourhood of which

City was fought the Battle wherein the famous Constable _Montmorency_ was

taken in Arms against his King. _Lewis_ XIII. having, at the Solicitation

of Cardinal _Richelieu_, order'd his Head to be cut off, he receiv'd the

Stroke of Death with a Constancy worthy of his Name, and of a better

Cause.

* * * * *

From this City I went in a very little time to Toulouse, the Capital of

_Languedoc_, and the Seat of a Parliament, which is the second in the

Kingdom: The Cathedral, dedicated to _St. Stephen_, is a magnificent Pile

of Building, in a large Square, adorn'd with a fine Fountain, in which

rises an Obelisk, that is a complete Piece of Work: The Archbishop's

Palace, which joins to the Cathedral, is an entire new Building, wherein

no Cost has been spar'd: As to the Houses of _Toulouse_, in common they

are well enough built, but without any Ornament: The Streets are pretty

broad, but very nasty; so that I inferr'd, the Civil Government here was

not very strict: As to the People of _Toulouse_, I own to you, _Madame_,

that I could like their Way of Living well enough: They have all a great

Share of Wit, but the worst on't is, they are conceited, which does them a

Prejudice: But they are very civil, especially to Foreigners, whom they

entertain perfectly well: I don't think that I ever fed better, and liv'd

more merrily than I did with these People, who are all of 'em good Jokers:

The Accent of this Country too, especially of the Women, sets off whatever

they say to such an Advantage, as seems to give a witty Turn to even the

most common Thoughts: Little Songs or Ballads are, as it were, the Fruits

of the Soil: Every one is a Sonneteer, and if their Verses are not equally

good, yet they are all relish'd alike, they have such a happy way of

setting them off.

To the Honour of the _Languedocians_ be it spoken, there is not a Province

in _France_, nor even in _Europe_, where 'tis pleasanter Travelling: The

Roads are magnificent, the Inns well provided with every thing that a

Traveller, were he hard to please, can desire; and all at a reasonable

Price.

* * * * *

From _Toulouse_ I travell'd to PAU, a City and Parliament of _Bearn_,

famous for the Birth of _Henry_ IV. on the 1st of _December, Anno 1557_,

for which Reason _Catherine de Medicis_ his Mother-in-Law, who did not

love him, call'd him the _Bearnois_: In the Castle is still to be seen the

Chamber where this Prince was born: This City consists but of one great

Street, at the End whereof stands the Castle, which is very ancient. The

Houses in general seem'd very inconsiderable, they being all low, small,

and without Ornament; but the Suburbs are very pleasant: As one goes out

of the Gate, towards the _Pyrenees_, there's a very thick Wood, with

several Alleys cut out in it, that form a noble Walk: From this Wood,

which stands upon very high Ground to the _Pyrenees_, one sees an

extensive Valley, in which runs a very fine River, on the Banks whereof

are several scattering Villages and little Hamlets, that form one of the

most agreeable Prospects.

* * * * *

The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts. · 第 20 / 68 题

After having made this Progress thro' the Inside of the City, I had a Mind