2 Harbingers of the Court.

All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on

Horseback, who were follow'd at some Distance by the Grand Marshal.

A Regiment of Dragoons, dress'd in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats

of the Officers edg'd with a Gold Lace.

12 Running-Footmen with blue Damask Jackets lac'd with Silver, and Sashes

of yellow Damask, embroider'd with Silver, and encompass'd with a Silver

Fringe; these were follow'd by 24 Heydukes in the _Saxon_ Livery.

The Hundred _Swiss_ Guards, dress'd after the antique manner in the

_Saxon_ Liveries, walking in Two Files, with their Officers in the

_French_ Mode at their Head, in Sky-blue Coats, all of the same Pattern,

with Silver Buttons and Button-holes, and Belts of Silver.

The Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ was in the midst of the Hundred _Swiss_;

he had a Coat on of Cloth of Silver, embroider'd with Gold and Diamonds,

and was mounted on a fine _Spanish_ Horse, the intire Equipage whereof was

of Gold adorn'd with Diamonds. The Count _de Lutzelbourg_, great Steward

of his Houshold, and the Baron _de Galen_, one of the Prince's

Chamberlains, immediately follow'd him.

The Prince was attended by 36 Footmen in the _Saxon_ Livery, and by a

Company of the King's Life-Guards.

Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the _Turkish_

Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was

follow'd by 24 Moors, dress'd also in the _Turkish_ Habit, in scarlet

Cloaths edg'd with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and

upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers.

Immediately after came the Princess's Coach between Two Files of the

Hundred _Swiss_; 'twas adorn'd with crimson Velvet, cover'd all over with

Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn'd with 8 great Plumes of white

Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This

Equipage was drawn by 8 stately _Neapolitan_ Horses, which had Harnesses

of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon

their Heads, with noble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold,

and edg'd with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman,

Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and

they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac'd with blue Velvet,

and adorn'd with a broad Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness's Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold

follow'd on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of

Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

5 Coaches with the _Saxon_ Livery, in which sat the Princess's chief Lady

and her Maids of Honour.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac'd with blue, clos'd the March.

With this pompous Train the Princess arriv'd at the Palace: The Streets

thro' which her Highness pass'd were lin'd with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths:

The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her

into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole

Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred

_Swiss_ were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin'd

with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac'd with blue, and blue Cloth

Waistcoats embroider'd with Gold: The Life-Guards form'd the second Row,

next to the Horse-Guards.

The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess,

when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer'd

to kiss; but her Majesty embrac'd her, and taking her by the Hand, led her

after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay'd there a few

Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the

Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber

of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the

Princess being fatigued retir'd to her Apartment, and the Court broke up

till next Morning, when there was a _Te Deum_ sung, during which there

was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small

Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and

Queen din'd in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais'd Three

Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince

and Princess din'd with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the

Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They

had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties.

At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the

Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of

Music during the Dinner, and at Night an _Italian_ Opera.

The Court did not assemble next Day till the Evening, when there was a

grand Ball, which the King open'd with the Queen: Their Majesties danc'd a

_Polish_ Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance

was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais'd Three Steps

above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc'd with the Princess,

who danc'd afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc'd with the

Prince, who danc'd afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances

were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o'Clock in the

Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were

serv'd up by 24 _Polish_ Pages, as many _Saxon_ Pages, and by the same

Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon

the Day of the Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was

magnificent.

The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of _September_, a Comedy

was perform'd by _French_ Comedians, who play'd _Ariane_, and _l'Ete des

Coquettes_.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the

Purpose.

On the 7th there was a grand _Italian_ Opera, intitul'd _Theophanes_, in

which the famous Musicians _Senesino_ and _Bercelli_ perform'd

surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in

the Pit, supp'd there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at

the same time there were little Tables serv'd in the Boxes for the Ladies.

There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the

10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play'd in

the Garden of the King's Palace. There the King supp'd with the Queen and

their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each,

and serv'd all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper

there was a fine Firework play'd, representing the carrying off of the

Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at,

and I made ready to set out for _Sicily_, where my Employment required my

Presence: Yet, before I leave _Dresden_, I must say a Word or two

concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen,

the Electoral Prince and Princess.

The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; 'tis impossible to

see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility

wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for

a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the

Electorate of _Saxony_; and soon after, upon the Death of _John Sobieski_,

the _Poles_ chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he

commanded the Emperor's Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and

Valour.

The Queen is of the Family of _Brandenbourgh Bareith_, and was espous'd to

the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port,

and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time

when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than

she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities:

She resides commonly at _Torgau_, or at _Pretsch_, and comes but very

seldom to _Dresden_: She has a separate House from the King's, which is

very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King

having given her the old Chapel at _Dresden_ and caus'd another to be

built for Himself and the Catholics.

The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very

well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights

very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to

be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow

fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his

Grandmother, who was a Princess of _Denmark_: When he was able to support

the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to _Italy_, and from thence

to _France_, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the

Prince went to _Vienna_, and 'twas during the Stay he made at the Court

that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the

Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You'll judge by the Account I

have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost

impossible but she must be very much belov'd at the Court of _Saxony_; and

she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People

who conceiv'd some Umbrage at the Prince's Marriage, for Fear of their

Religion, were quickly reconcil'd to it: For indeed what Violence was

there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish'd for her

Moderation and Good-nature?

These, _Madame_, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now 'tis

augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has

had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho' the Royal Family was not numerous

when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and

Courtiers, who were then at _Dresden_, made it very splendid: I had the

Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving

affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don't undertake now

to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be

particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a

little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some

Account of the City of _Dresden_. [11] _Dresden_ is one of the finest

Towns in _Germany_ for its Situation and its Structures; 'tis the Capital

of _Misnia_ in _Upper Saxony_. _Charlemain_ was the first that caus'd it

to be fortify'd; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence

of the Dukes and Electors of _Saxony_, who have caus'd its Fortifications

to be considerably augmented, and 'tis now a very strong Place: 'Tis

divided by the River _Elbe_ into Two Parts, call'd _The New Town_ and _The

Old Town_. In the latter stands the Prince's Palace, which was formerly a

very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being

consum'd by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments,

which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly

furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and

Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by

Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of _Cosel_, who liv'd in

it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest,

but perfectly well dispos'd, and they are adorn'd with fine Paintings, and

very richly furnish'd: Near the King's Palace there's a very fine Garden,

call'd _Zuinger-Garten_, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a

Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there

runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the

middlemost there's a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper

Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac'd with Marble, with gilded

Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass

are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the

Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet

perhaps a little too much incumber'd with carv'd Work.

Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King's

Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large

Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part

there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render _Old Dresden_ a

very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well

pav'd, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.

This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful

Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into _New Dresden_ is

a House that belongs to the King, and is call'd _The Palace of_ Holland,

because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which 'tis adorn'd, came

from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its

Situation most charming by reason of the River _Elbe_, which runs just by

it.

The Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest

of _Saxony_, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for

the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content

to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of

_Saxony_ bears the Title of _Grand Marshal of the Empire_, and is the

Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.

Thus, _Madame_, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the

Electorate of _Saxony_: I own to you, I lik'd the Country very much, and

the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me

wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it,

and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to _Sicily_.

When I left _Dresden_, I took the Road to MUNICH, to which I made very

great Haste, because I was so teiz'd with my old Ailment, for which _La

Peronie_ had me under Cure at _Paris_, that I did not care to delay,

putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me,

was no less a Man than the Elector's own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease

for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I

took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy'd from the Surgeon's

Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany'd them in

Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health:

The Count _de Charolois_, who was still at the Court of _Bavaria_, made an

Agreement with the Princes of _Bavaria_, to ride Post to _Saltzbourg_, to

see an _Italian_ Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to

celebrate his Birth-Day: The _Bavarian_ Princes set out first, and lodged

in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be _incog._

The Count _de Charolois_ set out from _Munich_ at 8 o'Clock at Night, with

only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the

Evening arriv'd at SALTZBOURG: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the

_Bavarian_ Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun

before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece

that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure

you, _Madame_, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre,

the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The

Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch'd the Ceiling with

their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most

diverted me were the Interludes, which were _executed_ by the Archbishop's

Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who

were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands,

but Sheep appear'd every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was

of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc'd, some, who

mov'd the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff'd with Straw skip up and

down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry'd Lines, to which

were fasten'd Trouts; others appear'd with Nets full of live Fish, which

made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must

not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance

was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great

Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted

themselves very much with this Piece, and 'twas a long rime before they

could get the Archbishop's Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can

scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on't.

Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be _incog._ they were

known, and the Archbishop, who was inform'd of their Arrival upon the very

Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper,

desiring at the same time to be excus'd for not waiting on them in Person,

which he assur'd them he should have done, if he had not been made

acquainted, that they were willing to be _incog._ The _Bavarian_ Princes

were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop's Supper; and for my own

Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that

pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my

Heart to have been at the Archbishop's Table. But the Count _de Charolois_

would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to

him, the _Bavarian_ Princes refus'd it likewise; however, they paid the

Archbishop a Visit, and the Count _de Charolois_ went along with them by

the Name of the Count _de Dammartin_; I had also the Honour to accompany

them: The Archbishop receiv'd the Princes without any Ceremony, according

to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very

short. The Princes return'd to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv'd up

exactly in the _Gout_ of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing

for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was

Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress'd

enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn'd into a Ragou;

but 'tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous;

for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil'd it to a

Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv'd up: This insipid Dish was

follow'd by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the

Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at

Night, and then the Princes of _Bavaria_ went to Bed, but as for the Count

_de Charolois_, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp'd,

and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return'd to _Munich_, but went

by the way of _Alten-Ottingen_, in order to see the Treasure that is kept

in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which

contain'd very fine Things, was inrich'd with Abundance of noble

Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in _Europe_. From thence we set

out for _Munich_, where we arriv'd after a Ramble of Three Days and as

many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell'd near 40 _German_

Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin'd.

The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at

_Munich_ even refus'd to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis'd me to

make a Tour to _Paris_, where the most able Professors in Arts of all

Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for

'twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid,

that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly

plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv'd to go to _Paris_. But, before I

set out, I wrote to the Count _de S----_, to tell him the Condition I was

in, tho' I assur'd him that I would stay no longer at _Paris_ than was

necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish'd or not I can't

tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv'd no Answer. I was

sorry to leave _Munich_, and no doubt, _Madame_, you are surpriz'd to find

me going for _Paris_, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you,

that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I

always found so many things to charm me, tho' I was fully sensible, that

the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me

heartily weary of staying in it.

* * * * *

This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for _Paris_

with Regret: I went thither by the way of _Strasbourg_, and when I

arriv'd I put myself again into the Hands of _la Peronie_, who in less

than a Month's Time made me sound! During that Space I notify'd my Arrival

to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly

cur'd. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed

by several Letters; but 'twas all so improbable, I never could believe it

to be true. Millions was the Word in every body's Mouth, and he that was

but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. 'Twas sufficient only to be

seen in the famous Street of _Quinquempoix_, and unless you were quite

forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place

with immense Wealth. I was advis'd to do as others did, and to try if

Fortune was still resolv'd to frown upon me: A great many Persons were

nam'd to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street

with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the

Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was

able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the

Rank with those who sacrific'd to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the

World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found

myself possess'd in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am

even asham'd to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would

absolutely pronounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but

in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and

therefore I push'd on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a

gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish'd almost in the

same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my

Purse empty, and was forc'd, whether I would or no, to renounce that Sort

of Negociation.

While the domestic Affairs of the Kingdom were in this Fluctuation, the

Army of _France_ press'd the _Spaniards_ very hard. The Campaign in

_Navarre_ prov'd very successful. I have already had the Honour to

acquaint you of the Taking of _Fontarabia_, which was follow'd soon after

by the Conquest of _St. Sebastian_. The _Germans_ on their Part made

themselves Masters of almost all _Sicily_, so that the King of _Spain_

seem'd almost reduced to a Necessity of demanding Peace, and that very

soon. Cardinal _Alberoni_ was not disturb'd at the Advantages of his

Enemy, and had a very great Dependence on the Uneasiness of the People of

_Bretagne_, where he had a Party actually form'd, that was to declare

openly against _Spain_, upon the first Motion which that Crown should make

towards the Coasts of that Province. The Cardinal caus'd the Duke of

_Ormond_ to sail to that Province, but 'twas to no Purpose; for the Regent

had been appriz'd of all these Schemes, and so well concerted his

Measures, that 'twas impossible for the Duke of _Ormond_ to undertake any

thing on that Side. Nevertheless, some Malecontent _Bretons_, who were

Refugees in _Spain_, assur'd me, that if the Duke had arriv'd sooner, the

Blow would not have fail'd, the whole Province would have revolted, and

caus'd the States General to assemble, and declare the King of _Spain_

Regent. For my Part, who knew all the Leaders of this Party full well, I

did not think the Success of this Affair so very sure. Those Gentlemen

were indeed Persons of a great deal of Sense, but of stronger Passions;

and to say all in a few Words, they play'd at high Game, to think of

surprizing the Regent! His Wisdom prevented all the Calamities which the

Kingdom was threaten'd with: He sent a Sovereign Court to _Bretagne_, of

which _M. de Chateauneuf_ was President, and he supported its Authority by

a Body of Troops under the Command of the Marshal _de Montesquiou_. They

began to make a Search after the Authors of the Rebellion, and 'twas

expected that a great deal of Blood would be spilt, yet there were only a

few Gentlemen, who paid for all with the Loss of their Heads. They say,

that among those Gentlemen One might have escap'd, if he had thought fit;

but when he was going on board, and saw the Waves very swelling, he

remember'd that some body had told him, he should perish _par la Mer_, i.

e. by Sea, and the Fear of Drowning made him turn back, so that he was

apprehended, and had his Head cut off by a Hangman, whose Name was _la

Mer_. A great Matter of Triumph this was to the Fortune-tellers!

Besides these, Warrants were issued against several other Gentlemen, but

they being not afraid of the Sea, made no Scruple to expose themselves to

it: Some fled to _Spain_, and some to _Hanover_, where the King of

_England_ granted them an _Asylum_, without violating the Alliance made

with _France_, which imported, that the Two Kings should give no Shelter

in their Kingdoms to the revolted Subjects of either; for the Duchy of

_Hanover_ being an Electorate, was not included in this Treaty.

'Twas well for a great many People of _Bretagne_, that Warrants were

issued out against them; for most of them had but little to leave behind,

and they were receiv'd in _Spain_ as Persons that had sacrific'd their All

for that Crown. Most of these were made Colonels by the Cardinal, tho' he

knew not whether they had ever been in the Service, while others, that had

really abandoned considerable Estates, were so unfortunate as to have the

least Reward.

* * * * *

These were the Transactions at _Paris_ during the little time I stay'd

there; for as soon as I found myself able to walk, I set out in good

earnest for _Sicily_; but not being quite well enough to ride Post, I made

but short Days journeys. I lay the first Night at _Melun_, and din'd the

next Day at MORET, which is a Village near _Fontainebleau_, with a

Convent, where they say, that the Negro Princess, of whom the Queen _Mary

Theresa_ was deliver'd, is a Nun.

* * * * *

From _Moret_ I went to _Sens_, and from thence to AUXERRE, which City I

found in an Uproar, on account of a very tragical Adventure: A Baker

having been very familiar for some time with the Wife of a Pastry-cook,

was reproach'd for it by his own Wife, who even threaten'd she would make

him smart for it; but the Baker, not at all terrify'd by her Menaces,

proceeded in his Amour as usual; while his Wife being desperate, and

raging with Jealousy to find herself depriv'd of conjugal Duty, was

resolv'd her Rival should not have the Pleasure of his Company any longer;

and therefore, as he was one Night in Bed with her, she took a Razor, and

shav'd him so close, that it was no more in his Power to give her any

Jealousy. The poor Man was in a very bad way when I happen'd to be at

_Auxerre_. I had this Story from my Landlady, where I quarter'd, who told

it me not without great Lamentation.

From _Auxerre_ I went to DIJON[12], the Capital of _Burgundy_, and the

Seat of the Parliament and of the Governor of the Province. In this City

the States of _Burgundy_ hold their Assemblies, and the Duke of

_Burgundy_, who is Governor of the Province, commonly presides there in

the King's Name. The Parliament of the Province was establish'd here by

_Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_, and confirm'd by _Lewis_ XI. Here is also a

Chamber of Accompts, a Mint, and a Presidial Court.

'Tis a very fine Country from _Dijon_ to _Chalons_[13], all along by those

excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of _Burgundy_. At

_Chalons_ I found a Conveniency to go to _Lyons_: The Road is the finest

that can be travell'd, for we go all the Way by the River _Saone_, which

forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects

that can be imagin'd. I pass'd by _Trevoux_, the Capital of the

Principality of _Dombes_, which belongs to the Duke of _Maine_, to whom it

was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late

_Madamoseille_ of _France_, Daughter to the late _Gaston_ Duke of

_Orleans_.

* * * * *

From _Trevoux_ 'tis but a few Days Journey to LYONS: Before we come to

this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of

_Pierre-Encise_, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are

condemned to perpetual Imprisonment.

LYONS[14] is the Capital of the _Lyonnois_, on the Conflux of the _Rhone_

the _Saone_. 'Tis one of the finest and most magnificent Cities in

_France_: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its

Buildings, both sacred and profane, very noble. _St. John_'s which is the

Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of _Gothic_ Architecture,

where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon'd a

Master-piece. The Canons have the Title of _Counts of_ Lyons, and are

oblig'd to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights

of _Malta_.

The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I

know of none but the Stadthouse at _Amsterdam_ that exceeds it. The Square

in which 'tis built is call'd _la Place des Terreaux_: 'Tis a very

beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of

the Ladies of _St. Peter_, now in Possession of a Daughter of the _Marshal

de Villeroy_.

The Square of _Bellecour_ is the finest Part of all the City; 'tis adorn'd

with an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white

Marble, at the Expence of the _Marshal de Villeroy_, Governor of _Lyons_

and the _Lyonnois_, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch's continued Favours

to him and all his Family.

After one is out of the Square of _Bellecour_, we come to the magnificent

Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated

by the _Saone_. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key,

that runs along the River, and is call'd the _Villeroy Key_, because it

was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of _Villeroy_

is mightily belov'd and respected throughout the _Lyonnois_, and while I

was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill'd by one Gentleman

or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor, and the

Reversion of his Post was secur'd to his Son the Duke _de Villeroy_, and

to the Dukes of _Rets_ and _Alincourt_ his Grandsons: The latter of these

is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishoprick was occupy'd by

one of the Marshal's Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of _St. Peter_ was by

one of his Daughters.

The Commerce of _Lyons_ is still very flourishing, tho' it was much more

so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment

to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there's not a Town in _France_

where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very

amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don't mean in

Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by

reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good

Education.

* * * * *

I embark'd on the _Rhone_ at _Lyons_ for _Avignon_: There are considerable

Towns upon this River which yield noble Prospects: Such is the City of

VIENNE, the Capital of the _Viennois_, with the Title of an

Archbishoprick: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the

_Romans_, who spar'd no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are

assur'd, that _Pilate_ was banish'd hither, and they even shew a House,

Half a League or more from the City, where 'tis said he liv'd. But I

should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether 'tis really true that

he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please.

* * * * *

From _Vienne_ I proceeded to _Valence_ and PONT ST. ESPRIT: In this latter

Town I saw that noble Bridge which is the Admiration of all Foreigners;

'tis one of the finest and most stately in _Europe_: It has 23 Arches, the

Pillars of which are very large with Overtures, in the Nature of Doors, to

give a freer Passage to the _Rhone_ when its Waters swell. They say, that

in these Pillars there are Vaults, where they us'd to put the Fanatics of

the _Cevennes_: The Passage of this Bridge is defended by a Citadel.

* * * * *

From _Pont St. Esprit_ 'tis but a little way to AVIGNON, which is a City

of _Provence_ that belongs to the Pope. _Clement_ VI. purchas'd it of

_Joan_ Queen of _Provence_ for a very moderate Sum; since which time it

has ever been subject to the Holy See. The Popes made it the Place of

their Residence for above 70 Years; but _Gregory_ XI. re-establish'd the

Holy See at _Rome_ about the Year 1377. Several Factions arising

afterwards among the Christian Princes on account of the Election of the

Popes, some of the Anti-Popes liv'd here. The Cathedral, which is

magnificent tho' very ancient, is dedicated to our Lady of _Dombes_.

_Avignon_ is in general a very well built City, the Streets being broad,

strait and lightsome. The adjacent Country is charming and very fruitful,

and I thought there was nothing wanting in it but a greater Number of

Inhabitants.

* * * * *

I took Post at _Avignon_, and went to AIX, which is the Capital of

_Provence_, and an Archbishop's See; there are also a Parliament and an

University: This is without Dispute one of the finest Towns in the

Kingdom: I was charm'd with the Beauty of the _Course_, which is the

Rendezvous of People in the Summer Evenings: 'Tis in the middle of a fine

spacious Street, the Houses whereof are truly magnificent, and several

beautiful Rows of Trees adorn'd with Fountains make it a very pleasant

Walk. The middle Row, which is separated from the rest by a Rail, is for

the Foot Passengers. From one End of the Course there's a Prospect of the

Country, and the other is limited by the City. At the End next to the

Country there's a Fountain, and a Balustrade of white Marble Breast-high.

There's another Course without the City, which is bigger than the former,

and every whit as beautiful. The Metropolitan Church of _St. Saviour_ is

remarkable for its Baptismal Font, which is a Piece of admirable

Structure: 'Tis all of white Marble, supported by filetted Columns, that

compass it in Form of a little Dome. This Church has a very high Tower,

which is a _Hexagon_, and much esteem'd by good Judges.

The Palace where the Parliament assembles is a noble Building, in the

Rooms whereof no Cost has been spar'd for Gilding, Painting and Carving.

The great Hall is adorn'd with Hangings of blue Velvet, sprinkled with

_Fleurs de Lys_ of Gold: The King's Throne with the upper and lower Seats

are cover'd with the like Tapistry: The Persons that compose the

Parliament of _Aix_ are almost all Men of Quality, which contributes very

much to make a Man's Residence here agreeable: The Nobility in this Place

live with Distinction. Besides the Parties made for Gaming, and the Walks,

there are Concerts of Music upon certain Days of the Week, to which

Foreigners are admitted _Gratis_, the Musicians being paid by a certain

Number of People of Quality, who hire them for the whole Season.

After Five or Six Days Stay at _Aix_, I set out for MARSEILLES: This is an

Episcopal City of _Provence_, which by being situate on the

_Mediterranean_ is one of the most considerable Cities in _France_ for

Commerce, and engrosses almost the whole Trade of the _Levant_. 'Tis

divided into the upper and lower Towns: The former is the _Old

Marseilles_, the Houses of which are very dark, and the Streets narrow and

very irregular. In this Part stands the Cathedral of our Lady _la Major_.

The Lower Town is very fine, the Streets broad, most of 'em strait, and

the Houses very magnificent, especially those by the Side of the _Course_,

which is one of the finest in the World: 'Tis very much like that at

_Aix_. This Part of _Marseilles_ owes its Embellishment and Aggrandizement

to _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd Works to be erected there worthy of so great a

Prince. _Marseilles_ has a noble Harbour, it being a large Bason, almost

encompass'd with Houses, and defended by Two Castles, of which that on the

Right Hand is very high, and commands a great way at Sea: That on the Left

contains the Arsenal, which is one of the finest that I have seen, and

every thing in it is so regularly dispos'd, that it forms a charming View.

The Harbour of _Marseilles_ is the Station for the King's Galleys, on

board of which there's a great Number of Slaves, who do almost all the

hard Work; they load and unload the Ships: Some of 'em are allow'd to walk

about the Town and to trade, but are obliged to pay something to the Man

that accompanies them, and to lie aboard at Night. Others, who are charg'd

with enormous Crimes, are fasten'd Two, Three and Four together to great

Chains, which does not hinder them however from working for their

Livelihood. The great Trade of _Marseilles_ and the Wealth of its

Inhabitants give this City an Air of Opulence, which is seldom to be found

elsewhere: There is hardly a Place where one meets with better Chear, and

where 'tis easier to be accommodated with every thing that a Gentleman can

desire to pass his Time agreeably. Comedies, Concerts, Gaming, Taking the

Air, in short, Pleasures of all Sorts make this a most charming Place to

live in, even for People that are ever so opposite to one another in

Characters and Temper.

The Suburbs of _Marseilles_ are magnificent: They contain above 20,000

little Houses, call'd by the Country-people _Bastides_, and all

encompass'd with very fine Vineyards and Gardens, which render these

Habitations very charming in the fine Weather. 'Twas to these Houses that

most of the Inhabitants retir'd during the last Plague with which

_Provence_ was afflicted, and which held so long as to carry off a great

Part of the Citizens. This Desolation would have been much greater, and

would perhaps have penetrated into the Heart of _France_, had it not been

for the great Care taken by the Regent, that no Correspondence should be

kept with the People of _Marseilles_.

_Provence_ in general is a fine Country, and a very pleasant Place to live

in at all times, but especially in the Winter. At that time too the Sky is

clearest, and there are then some Days, which naturally ought rather to be

plac'd to the Account of Summer. I remember I was walking on the Harbour

of _Marseilles_ one Day in this Season at 2 or 3 o'Clock in the Afternoon,

and that I was forc'd to withdraw, the Weather was so hot. Yet I observ'd

that not many Days after a Wind arose, (that the People of the Country

call _Mistral_) which was extremely cold, and the more disagreeable to me,

because 'tis not easy to get warm in this Country, here being no Wood but

some Roots or Branches of Olive-trees, which do not make a very good Fire.

Besides, most of the Rooms, especially in the Inns, are without Chimneys,

so that one is oblig'd to make Use of a Pan of Coals, which is very

inconvenient, to such especially as are not us'd to this Method of warming

themselves.

After having for a few Days saunter'd in and about _Marseilles_, I thought

it proper to inquire what Ship was bound to _Sicily_; but with all my

Inquiry, I could not find out any, and was under a Necessity of going

either to _Genoa_ or _Leghorn_. I was assur'd that 'twas but a little way,

and that I should be there in a very few Days, so that I agreed for my

Passage with a Merchant that was bound to _Leghorn_. The contrary Wind

kept us a Fortnight in the Harbour, and then we sail'd; but were forc'd to

put into _La Cienta_, a little Town and Port of _Provence_. There I stayed

Three Days for a fair Wind, to proceed in my Voyage, and at last finding

'twas to no Purpose, I resolv'd to leave my Trunks and Servants aboard the

Ship, and to go by Land.

* * * * *

The first Day I went and lay at TOULON a City of _Provence_, and one of

the best Harbours in _Europe_. In this Harbour lie the King's Ships, and

here is the great Arsenal of the Admiralty of _France_, where _Lewis_ XIV.

caus'd Works to be made worthy of so great a Monarch. The Road of _Toulon_

is as considerable as the Harbour, and Ships ride there perfectly safe.

They say, 'tis large enough to contain all the Ships in the

_Mediterranean_. The City of itself is but small, and were it not for the

Sea-Officers, 'twould be a melancholy Place to live in. These Gentlemen

have caused a House to be erected here, which serves for their Assemblies,

it being composed of several Rooms very well adorn'd. Here are the

Pictures of the Count _de Tholouse_ great Admiral, the Marshals _de Tesse_

and _de Etrees_, and several Generals and naval Officers; together with

noble Sea-Charts. Here one is always sure to find Company enough, and that

which is select. At Night they meet in these Rooms, where is all manner of

Play: The Sea-Officers make the Entertainments, in which they acquit

themselves with all possible Grace and Politeness; and a Foreigner is

always so heartily welcome there, that they strive who shall treat him

with most Civility.

You know, _Madame_, that the Allies attempted to make themselves Masters

of _Toulon_, during the last War. The Duke of _Savoy_ came first before

the Place, but was soon oblig'd to raise the Siege, for Want of being

supported by the _English_ Fleet, which was kept back by contrary Winds.

Others impute the Raising of this Siege to the Menaces of _Charles_ XII.

of _Sweden_, who was at that time in _Saxony_, to declare for _France_, if

the Duke of _Savoy_'s Army stay'd any longer before _Toulon_. Be this as

it will, the Duke's Forces retir'd, after having lost some of their

principal Officers, among others the brave Prince of _Saxe-Gotha_, Brother

to the Reigning Duke, who was kill'd as he went to take a View of the

Place.

From _Toulon_ I went to FREJUS, a Town upon the Sea; 'tis very ancient,

and the Citizens pretend that most of its old Monuments were built by the

_Romans_: Such are the Ruins of a Causey, that reach'd as far as _Arles_,

near the Mouth of the _Rhone_, and the Remains of an ancient _Circus_,

which seems to have been a very spacious one. 'Tis said that a great

Aqueduct in the Neighbourhood brought as much Water to it from the

Distance of 10 Leagues, as was sufficient to support a Naval Combat within

the Circumference of this _Circus_. Going out of _Frejus_ there's a long

Mole or Causey cut by several small Canals, over which there are Bridges,

said to have been made by the _Romans_.

* * * * *

As I pursued my Journey, I pass'd near ANTIBES, a strong Place on the

Sea-Shore, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was

translated to _Grasse_ in _Upper Provence_. From thence I cross'd the

_Var_, which River separates _France_ from the Dominions of the King of

_Sardinia_; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv'd at _Nice_.

* * * * *

NICE was formerly very well fortify'd, and its Castle especially was

reckon'd impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of

_Francis_ I. and that of _Barbarossa_ the _Turk_ in 1543. But _Lewis_ XIV.

had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the

Castle, which he caus'd to be intirely demolish'd; and having also caus'd

the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy'd, he restor'd it in

this Condition to its Sovereign. At _Nice_ we begin to see Orange-trees in

such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common

Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter.

As 'twas very fine Weather when I arriv'd at _Nice_, I was advis'd to go

on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Passage of the Mountains;

I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by

only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put

off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away,

and 'twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv'd at VILLA-FRANCA, a small

Sea-Port in the County of _Nice_.

This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of

the King of _Sardinia_'s Galleys: 'Twas here that this Prince embark'd

with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of

_Sicily_: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown'd at

_Palermo_, they came and landed at _Villa-Franca_ in their Return to

_Turin_. The Night that I came to this Town there happen'd a terrible

Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam,

that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair

as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same

Danger as I had been expos'd to before. The Winds, or rather all the

Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you,

cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance.

Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told 'em the Danger

was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be

discourag'd. In short, I don't remember every thing that I said to 'em,

and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been upon

_Terra Firma_. Whatever it was, I arriv'd safe at MONACO, a little Town

which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards

the Sea, is built in the _Italian_ Taste, but is a very plain Building.

There is a _French_ Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the

Garison of _Antibes_. The Prince of _Monaco_, who is Sovereign of the

Country, marry'd a Princess of _Lorrain_, by whom he only had Daughters.

He marry'd the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the

Duke _de Valentinois_, Son to _M. de Matignon_.

* * * * *

From _Monaco_ I went to _St. Remo_, the first Town in the Dominions of

_Genoa_, where I took a Boat, which carry'd me to SAVONA, a City in the

State of _Genoa_, with the Title of a Bishoprick. This is one of the best

Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its

Dominions. The _Genoese_ have caus'd a City to be built here with Two

Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great

Importance to the Republic.

I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir'd Mules to carry

me to _Genoa_, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce passable, by

reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing.

The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the

Sea-side, which being cover'd with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect.

After one has travell'd some Leagues from _Genoa_, the Road becomes very

good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many noble

Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the

most stately Amphitheatres that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to

_Genoa_.

* * * * *

GENOA is an Archbishoprick, the Capital of the State of _Genoa_, and the

ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. 'Tis the finest and most

magnificent City in _Italy_; 'tis not very long that this Republic has

enjoy'd its Liberty, it being the famous _Andrew Doria_ who acquir'd it

for his Country during the Reign of _Francis_ I. King of _France_, to whom

_Genoa_ was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas'd: I

enter'd it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the

most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of

_Genoa_. I was amaz'd at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty

of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an

Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the _Annunciade_,

where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and

Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer'd

Pillars, of red vein'd Marble, lin'd with white Marble; the Capitals of

the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also

gilt, and inrich'd with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of

Marble in Compartments. I don't undertake to give a farther Detail of the

Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related

by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repetition of what has been

said a hundred times over.

The Streets of _Genoa_ are, properly speaking, rather Galleries than

Streets, there being nothing but Structures and Palaces of the utmost

Magnificence, look which way one will. That which struck me most of all

was the Palace of _Balbi_; I never saw any so regular, and with Fronts so

conformable to the Rules of Architecture; but then it must be consider'd,

'tis in this grand Outside only that all the Magnificence of the Houses of

_Genoa_ consists; for when you enter into one of the greatest and richest

Palaces, there's not a Mortal to be seen, so that one would think there

are no Domestics, and sometimes 'tis a difficult Matter to find the Master

of the House. In a Word, the great Houses of _Genoa_ are mere Solitudes,

excepting on Assembly Days, of which there are some held here every

Evening at the House of one Nobleman or another. Then the Apartments are

nobly illuminated, and there's all manner of Refreshments serv'd up in

Profusion. Assemblies of this kind, and a sorry _Italian_ Opera, were all

the Pleasures at _Genoa_ while I was there; so that a Stranger does not

know what to do here with his Time. Here are also very few Entertainments

made, and the Envoys, who are generally they that make the most, conform,

when they are at _Genoa_, to the Temper of the People, which is to give

their Guests nothing to eat or drink. In my time there was none here but

the _English_ Envoy, who did not follow that Custom, for 'twas a Pleasure

to him to treat his Friends with good Cheer.

While I was at _Genoa_ the Republic chose a new Doge: I saw him go to the

Cathedral, and take the usual Oath: The Procession was on Foot; 'twas

begun by some of the Doge's Officers, after whom Eight Pages, in Habits of

crimson Velvet lac'd with Gold, went before the Doge, who was dress'd in a

long Robe of crimson Velvet, with a Sort of square Cap of the same: He was

supported by the General of the _Genoese_ Arms on his Right Hand, and by

another Officer of the Republic on his Left Hand, and he walk'd between

Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. The Senators follow'd two and two,

dress'd in long Gowns of black Velvet. The Archbishop met the Doge about

the middle of the Church, where was a Cushion of crimson Velvet for the

Doge, and other Cushions for the Senators, who all kneel'd down as well as

the Doge, and after a short Prayer the Archbishop led the Doge up to the

Altar; then the Prelate took the Book of the Gospels, and presented it to

the Doge, who, falling on his Knees, and laying his Hand on the Book, took

an Oath to maintain the Republic in their Rights and Privileges; this

done, the Doge return'd to his Palace, where he was complimented by all

the Senators, and crown'd Doge of _Genoa_, and King of _Corsica_: Next Day

he gave a great Feast to above 300 Persons.

The Doge of _Genoa_ is a living Example of the Instability of human

Grandeur: His lasts but Two Years, at the Expiration of which Word is

brought to him, that his Time is out, and that he must quit the Ducal

Palace, and retire to his own. A Man to be a Doge must be completely 50

Years of Age: You know how very much his Authority is limited; he can do

neither Good nor Harm; the only Occasion wherein he makes a little Figure

is, when he receives and dispatches Ambassadors in Ceremony.

Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the

Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt,

lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power.

This Republic was formerly very much inclin'd to espouse the Interests of

_Spain_, when that Crown possess'd the _Milanese_, and the Kingdom of

_Naples_, because most of the _Genoese_ Nobles had their Estates in those

Countries; but now that the same are pass'd under the Emperor's Dominion,

the Republic is oblig'd to carry it very fair to his Imperial Majesty, or

else the Doge might be sent for to _Vienna_, as he was once by _Lewis_

XIV. to _Versailles_.

I was at _Genoa_ when the Republic sent a Galley to _Antibes_, to meet the

famous Cardinal _Alberoni_, who, after having experienc'd the Inconstancy

of Fortune in _Spain_, went to _Italy_, with a Design to retire to the

Duchy of _Parma_, his native Country. The Disgrace of this Cardinal

surpriz'd all _Europe_, except the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent of

_France_, who was the Author of it. During the Truce to which the Cardinal

had prevail'd on the King of _Spain_ to give his Consent, the Duke

improv'd that Interval to negociate that Minister's Removal; and that he

might succeed the better in his Design, he engag'd the Duke of _Parma_,

who was the Queen of _Spain_'s Father-in-Law and Uncle, to act in Concert

with him, for inducing the King of _Spain_ to put away his Prime Minister.

The Duke of _Parma_ charged _Scotti_, his Minister at _Madrid_, to

negotiate this Affair, in which he met at first with astonishing

Obstacles; but at last the Advantages he promis'd the Queen, on the Part

of the Regent of _France_, both for herself and her Children, crown'd the

Negociation with Success. The Cardinal was dismiss'd, perhaps, with more

Precipitancy than he ought to have been, considering the Attachment he had

always shewn to the Queen, and the Care he had taken to rouse _Spain_

from the Lethargy into which that Crown was fallen when he was declar'd

Prime Minister. 'Twas on the 5th of _January_ that Cardinal _Alberoni_

found himself all at once abandon'd by every body, and oblig'd to fly from

a Country where he had appear'd with more Authority than the King himself.

The Order was signify'd to him by Don _Miguel Durand_, Secretary of State,

and was in the very Hand-writing of the King, who deliver'd it to the

Secretary as he was going to the _Pardo_ to hunt. His Catholic Majesty

thereby order'd his Minister to concern himself no more with State

Affairs, to leave _Madrid_ in eight Days, and the Kingdom in three Weeks;

and moreover, the Cardinal was forbid coming all that while to any Place

where the King and Queen were.

The Disgrace of this Minister cou'd not but be the more pleasing to the

Duke of _Orleans_, because it happen'd at a Time when the Cardinal was

taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with _England_; whither he

had sent _M. de Seissan_, formerly a Colonel in _France_, afterwards

Lieutenant-General in _Poland_, and now Captain-General in _Spain_, to

treat with my Lord _Stanhope_, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of

that Kingdom. _M. de Seissan_ embark'd at the _Groyne_, after having been

detain'd there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he

met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away;

but at length he arriv'd at _London_. He went immediately to my Lord

_Stanhope_, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who

should he meet coming down booted and spurr'd, but the very Courier from

_France_ that brought my Lord _Stanhope_ Letters from the Abbot,

afterwards the Cardinal, _du Bois_, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal

_Alberoni_'s Disgrace. _M. de Seissan_, who knew nothing of the Change

that had been made at the Court of _Madrid_ while he was buffeted and

toss'd about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord _Stanhope_, and

told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he

came from _Spain_ without a Passport, unless he wou'd receive the _Carte

blanche_ he brought him for Peace, instead of such Passport. At the same

time he produc'd to the _English_ Minister the Full Power which he had

from Cardinal _Alberoni_ to treat of a Peace. My Lord _Stanhope_ did not

interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask'd him if it had been

long since he left _Madrid_: _M. de Seissan_ telling him all the Delays

that had happen'd in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot _Du Bois_'s

Letter to read. The Envoy of _Spain_ was Thunder-struck when he read this

Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all

this, and that he resign'd himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as

he thought fit. My Lord answer'd him very civilly, That he should be sorry

to abuse the Confidence he had repos'd in him, by coming to him without a

Passport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to _Spain:_

which he did accordingly, without Delay.

'Twas said that Cardinal _Alberoni_ was so piqu'd against the King and

Queen of _Spain_, that he study'd Revenge; and that therefore as soon as

he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his

Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him

Shelter at _Paris_, he would let him into the Detail of the most secret

Affairs of the _Spanish_ Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be

given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken

the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History

of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they

say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal's Offers, and contented himself

with sending him a Passport, that he might go to _Italy_. I saw him

actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where his

Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception

he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought

himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to

run him down, was not content with his being disgrac'd by the King of

_Spain_; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the

Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in

less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish'd from

a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag'd upon the Road, and

depriv'd of all his Papers, in danger of being murder'd by the Miquelets,

and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv'd in Confidence

that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require

Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal

_Alberoni_ had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish'd to see with

what Intrepidity he behav'd in his Adversity.

* * * * *

After I had stay'd a while at _Genoa_, I went to _Sarzana_[15], and from

thence to PISA[16], which is a City in the Dominions of _Tuscany_, with a

University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no small

Consequence in the _Mediterranean_, till it was conquered by the Dukes of

_Tuscany_ of the Family of the _Medicis_, who have ever since remain'd

Masters of it. The City of _Pisa_ has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan

Church call'd the _Dome_, is of admirable Beauty: 'Tis built in the

_Gothic_ Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome

and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the _Gothic_ Style. This great

Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn'd with broad Gold Lace:

In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium

of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship.

Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of

cast Iron, with very fine Basso-Relievo's upon them, representing

Historical Passages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the

great Church-yard, which is encompass'd with a Gallery, whose Walls

painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of _Pisa_. At a small

Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built

of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental

Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar

are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher's

Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.

St. _Stephen_'s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious

Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and

particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets

the Chapter of the Knights of St. _Stephen_, which was instituted by the

Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. _Anno_ 1561, after he had obtain'd a Victory. The

Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Descents: They make a Vow of

Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of _Malta_,

which is fasten'd to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross

is also embroider'd upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the

Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. in Brass.

I carefully examin'd the famous Tower that leans to one Side: 'Tis round,

and incompass'd with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that

run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at

first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which

is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this

Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There's an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass,

which is encompass'd with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.

The Country about _Pisa_ is very pleasant: There's a Grove of Cypress at

its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, _Madame_, that

at _Pisa_ was concluded that famous Treaty between _Alexander_ VII. and

_Lewis_ XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father

was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambassador the Duke of _Crequy_

had receiv'd at _Rome_.

* * * * *

From _Pisa_ I went in a Day to FLORENCE[17], the Capital of _Tuscany_, and

the ordinary Residence of the Great Dukes. 'Tis call'd _Florence the

Fair_, and not without Reason; for 'tis one of the largest and finest

Cities in _Europe_.

The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and most spacious Pile: The Outside

is fac'd all over with Marble of various Colours: The Inside contains

immense Treasures, in Pictures, Statues, and other most curious Pieces.

Near the Cathedral is a Church commonly call'd the Chapel of the

Baptistery, which is also intirely fac'd with Marble. The Church of the

_Annunciade_ is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of

which are stately Paintings, Works in Gold, Brass, _&c._ the whole of the

utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it

may be said without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with

the stately Church of St. _Lawrence_. 'Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the

Middle of every Front is a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a Chapiter of

Brass gilt, which supports a Cornice and an Entablature of the same, each

Pilaster representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the six Angles

there are six Tombs of very costly Marble, and over each a Cushion

sprinkled with precious Stones, which supports very rich Crowns plac'd at

the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: These Statues, which are of

Brass gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac'd in Niches of black

Marble. The Pedestals of the six Tombs are overcast with Porphyry and a

sort of Agat call'd Chalcedony, on which are inscrib'd, in Letters of

Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whose Bodies are therein contain'd. All

the rest of the Wall is lin'd with the best Marble, and costly Stones

plac'd in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Brass

gilded: The High Altar is of _Lapis Lazuli_ or Azure-stone inrich'd with

Jewels. The Thing which strikes the Eye most of all is the Tabernacle, the

Magnificence whereof is worthy of the rest. In a Word, I take it to be the

only Building that can compare with the famous Temple of _Solomon_, of

which there is so glorious a Description in the Scriptures.

Every one knows that 'twas the famous _Cosmo di Medicis_ who laid the

Foundations of the Principality of _Florence_, and that 'twas Pope _Pius_

IV. who gave it the Title of the Great Duchy. When I came hither, the

Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. was still living, who, tho' very old, had a great

deal of Vigour. He was a Man of the most civil Behaviour in the World,

which, added to his fair Hair, gain'd him the Love and Veneration of all

that approach'd him. I had the Honour to pay my Devoirs to him one

Evening, as I was introduc'd to an Audience of him by his First Minister.

I found him all alone in the Room, standing and leaning against a Table,

upon which were two Wax Candles; After I had made my Obeisance to him, he

cover'd himself, and bad me be cover'd too: I intreated him to humour the

profound Respect I had for his Highness so far as to let me remain

uncover'd; but then he took off his Hat, and press'd me to put on mine,

which I did as soon as he was cover'd, in conformity to this grand Maxim,

That 'tis the Duty of private Men to keep in the Posture which Princes

require of them: But I will own frankly, that it gave me some Uneasiness

to speak with my Hat upon my Head to a Prince of the Great Duke's Age and

Dignity. His Highness, before he enter'd into Conversation with me, ask'd

me whether I spoke _Italian_? I told him that I could talk it a little,

but that I did not think I understood enough of it to undertake to speak

it in the Presence of so great a Prince as he: To this he made Answer,

_And I can speak some broken French_. Nevertheless, he did me the Honour

to talk with me a good while in that Language, with abundance of

Good-nature. Next Day I got myself introduc'd to the Great Prince by Mr.

_Tyrrel_, a Gentleman of his Bedchamber. The Prince receiv'd me very

kindly, said he remember'd that he had seen _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, my

Cousin, attending the late Queen at _Berlin_, and that he was at my

Mother's House while he stay'd in _Germany_; and he offer'd me his

Protection upon all Occasions whenever I wanted it. This Prince was

married to a Princess of _Saxe-Lawenbourg_, Dowager of the Prince

_Palatine_ of _Newbourg_, who was the Elector _Palatine_'s Brother.

The Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. who died in 1723, married _Margaret Louisa_ of

_Orleans_, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother of

_Lewis_ XIII. by whom he had two Sons and a Daughter. The eldest Son,

whose Name was _Ferdinand de Medicis_, died at _Florence_, _October_ 30,

1713. without any Issue by his Wife, who was _Violante Beatrix_ of

_Bavaria_. The second, now the Great Duke, is _John Gaston de

Medicis_[18]. The Princess, his Sister, is _Anna-Maria-Louisa_ of

_Florence_[19], who married the Elector _Palatine, John William_ of

_Newbourg_; and after that Prince's Death retir'd to the Dominions of the

Great Duke, in which she usually resides.

The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can

see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it,

but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The

Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: 'Tis about 400 Feet long, and has

a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into

several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would

wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done

by themselves: The second is adorn'd with Porcellane of all Sorts: There

is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other

Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid

Work: I was particularly surpriz'd at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one

of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not

have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a

Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no

looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with

Admiration and Horror.

There is a Piece that makes Part of the Gallery which is worthy of a nice

Observation: 'Tis an Octagon Saloon pav'd with Marble of various Colours:

The Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet; and the Ceiling of the Dome is

lin'd with Mother of Pearl, which makes a very fine Effect. But among all

the Rarities which this stately Saloon contains, nothing is comparable to

the Great Duke's famous Diamond: I saw the Model of it, which is all that

they now shew of it; the present King of _Denmark_ being the last Person

to whom the late Great Duke shew'd it in 1769, which creates a Suspicion

that this Diamond is not new at _Florence_: Many People assur'd me it was

sold, and that the Grand Signior was the Purchaser of it. Be it where it

will, the Weight of this Diamond was 139 Carats and a half.

* * * * *

After having stay'd some time at _Florence_, I set out for _Rome_, taking

SIENNA in my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part of

_Tuscany_. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble.

From _Sienna_ I went to MONTEFIASCONE, a City and Bishoprick in the

Patrimony of St. _Peter_. My Design was to have gone through this Town

without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig'd me to stay at the

Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was

so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in

the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great

Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen'd to me at the

Post-house. The Master of the House carry'd me up Stairs into a great

Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one an _Italian_, the other a

_German_, who were both come from _Rome_, and obliged, as I was, by the

bad Weather to stay at _Montefiascone_. As we were talking together by the

Fire-side, I observ'd a very odd Motion as if we had been rock'd. As I had

never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but the _Italian_

told me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded

from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc'd that it

was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that

the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir'd our Landlord to put us

in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man

laugh'd to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his

House had totter'd as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any

Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But

this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his

House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen'd to a

House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the

Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but

prudent not to expose myself in Harm's Way; I resolv'd therefore to go

down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our

Landlord carry'd us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse

Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to

have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every

Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that

we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig'd to shift our

Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there;

but 'twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable

Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv'd to stay there, because

there fortunately happen'd to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while

we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer'd

in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing

or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which

alarming the Town, every body flock'd to the Place, and by good Luck the

Fire was soon extinguish'd; nevertheless, the Mob join'd in a Halloo

against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every

Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter'd our Money, and then

our Fears vanish'd; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we

were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc'd to put

up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be.

* * * * *

From _Montefiascone_ I went in a Day and half to ROME[20], to which City

all the Way from _Florence_ is over Hills and Mountains: The Roads

belonging to the Dominions of _Tuscany_ are kept in good Order, and Care

has been taken to render them as passable as the Nature of them will

permit, by levelling Hills, and making noble Causeys; but as soon as one

enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that 'tis a

hard Matter to get through them. I stopp'd my Chaise about a League from

_Rome_ upon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent to _Ponte-Mole_. There I

cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I

should have, when I came to take my Progress thro' its several Quarters.

After having satisfy'd this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I

pass'd the _Tyber_ over the _Ponte-Mole_, and struck into a pav'd Road,

which carry'd me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till

I came to the famous City of _Rome_. I enter'd it thro' the Gate _del

Popoli_, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name,

consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is

somewhat better. Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a

Goose's Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of

equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk

erected by _Sixtus_ V.

From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage

search'd. There's a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a

stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon

as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to the

_Hotel_ of _Monte d'Or_ on the Square of _Spain_, which is but an

indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompass'd with

a Parcel of ill-contriv'd Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves

for a Watering Place.

Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry'd me to visit _St. Peter_'s

Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the

Bridge of _St. Angelo_ upon the _Tyber_, which fronts the Castle of the

same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each

Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful

Workmanship. The Castle of _St. Angelo_ is, as I have said, over-against

the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompass'd with Bastions, which serves

as a Citadel to the City of _Rome_, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in

a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with the

_Vatican_ Palace: As we go off of the Bridge of _St. Angelo_, we pass for

some time on the Banks of the _Tyber_, over a Key that is on the left

Hand. From thence we go thro' several Streets to the famous Square of _St.

Peter_'s Church, which may be term'd the chief Square in the Universe. It

was design'd by the celebrated _Bernini_, and executed in the manner as

it now appears to us by Pope _Alexander_ VII. 'Tis an Oval, encompass'd

with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is

adorn'd with a Balustrade, on which, at proper Spaces, are the Statues of

the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of Pope _Alexander_

VII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais'd by Order

of _Sixtus_ V. in 1586, in the middle between Two noble Fountains. The

Gallery, that runs round _St. Peter_'s Square, leads on both Sides to the

Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be

weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of

the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The

Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It

leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of the _Vatican_, and

there's a cover'd Gallery over it, where the Pope appears upon

_Holy-Thursday_ and _Easter-Day_ to anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and

Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling

in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The principal Entrance

of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of

Brass, and on one Side of it is that call'd _la Porta Santa_, or the Holy

Gate, that is never open'd except on the grand Jubilees, which are only

once in 25 Years.

But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will,

'tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver,

Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest

Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the

most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so

little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.

The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome

in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in _Mosaic_.

Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel'd for

its Magnificence: 'Tis rais'd some Steps from the Ground, and stands by

itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the

sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass,

with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion,

which is intirely of Brass: 'Tis adorn'd with _Basso-Relievo_'s, and

especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope _Urban_ VIII. of the

_Barberini_ Family, who caus'd this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over

each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the

Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under

the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles _St. Peter_ and _St. Paul_, to which

is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The

whole is adorn'd with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the

Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These

Steps are encompass'd with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of

Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on _Good Friday_.

_St. Peter_'s Chair is over-against the great Altar; 'tis all of Brass,

and very high; 'tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose

Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass,

which reaches to the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the

Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.

I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not

propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of

the _Italian_ Cities, and especially _Rome_, offer to the Eyes of the

curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred

Travellers have already describ'd at large; I therefore silently pass over

several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading

of several Travels to _Italy_: I will only tell you by the way, that I was

astonish'd at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous _Christina_ Queen of

_Sweden_, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and

turn'd Catholic, at last fix'd her Residence at _Rome_, where she dy'd.

This Princess was interr'd in _St. Peter_'s Church, where a magnificent

Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there's her Picture in a

Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess's Tomb, is

that of the famous Countess _Matilda_, whose Memory ought to be very dear

to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which

the Church ever had.

Besides the Inside and Outside of _St. Peter_'s Church, there are Places

under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there

lin'd with Marble, whose Altars are adorn'd with _Mosaic_ Paintings, to

fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth

seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually

without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so

commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome, which supports its Cross:

From hence there's a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.

I went from _St. Peter_'s Church to see the _Vatican_ Palace, which joins

to it: This was formerly the Pope's common Residence, but for some time

past they have given the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_ the Preference to it,

that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The _Vatican_ is a very

irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which

compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must

be a great Number of Apartments. 'Tis accompany'd with a Garden, at the

End of which is a House call'd _Belvedere_, because of the fine Prospect

there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one

would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope's Apartments are

very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn'd with a broad

Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter'd into a great Apartment, which was

heretofore richly furnish'd for the Reception of _Philip_ V. King of

Spain, at the time when he was in _Italy_, and expected at _Rome_.

The famous _Vatican_ Library is also worth the Traveller's View, being

full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much

augmented by the _Heidelberg_ Library, and that of the Duke of _Urbino_.

After having satisfy'd my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I

thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis _C----_, and to the

Duke _S----_, for whom I had Letters given me at _Florence_. Those

Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer'd to shew me the Curiosities

at _Rome_, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the Marquis

_C----_ carry'd me the very same Day to _Madame de B----_, where I found

a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially _Abbes_,

smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest

_Petit-Maitres_ in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress'd,

and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not

the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to

engross them so, that there seem'd to be no Possibility of coming near

them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went

into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play.

There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me

to be _Monsieur l' Abbe_. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found

Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me

the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that

introduc'd me, with whom I talk'd now-and-then, I should have made a very

queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and

was very glad when I got out.

Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me

the greatest Curiosities at _Rome_: He carry'd me first to the most

considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the _Trajan_

Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous _Trajan_ Pillar, so call'd

from the Emperor _Trajan_, who began it, tho' 'twas not finish'd till

after his Death: 'Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads

to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of

Marble, and represents _Trajan_'s principal Actions in _Basso-Relievo_.

This Column was rais'd higher by Pope _Sixtus_ V. who had _St. Peter_'s

Statue plac'd on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say

contain'd the Ashes of the Emperor _Trajan_.

My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place _Navona_, which forms

a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular

nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient

for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town

under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of

Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.

We went to see the Church of _St. John de Lateran_, which may be deem'd

the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in _Christendom_: It owes its

Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus'd it to be built with

extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt

down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: 'Tis not

indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as _St. Peter_'s Church,

but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof

supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height

and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome,

which, 'tis said, was _Constantine_'s Baptistery, but this last Article is

not absolutely certain.

From this Church I went to the _Scala-Santa_, which is a Building of

Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico's form the

principal Front; that in the middle leads to the _Scala-Santa_, or Holy

Stair-case; so call'd because 'tis said the Steps of it are the same that

form'd the Stair-case of _Pilate_'s Palace, by which our Lord descended,

after he was scourg'd. Every body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it

leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a

Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels.

'Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call'd the

_Sancta-Sanctorum_. On one Side of this _Scala-Santa_ there are Two little

Stair-cases, for those that don't care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon

their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform'd this Act of

Devotion.

When I had seen the _Scala-Santa_, my Guide conducted me to the

_Coliseum_, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that

_Vespasian_ began this superb Structure, and that his Son _Titus_ finish'd

it, and entertain'd the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of

which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the _Coliseum_ is an

Oval, encompass'd with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to

the Opinion of some Authors, contain'd above 85,000 Spectators: 'Tis great

Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv'd. _Urban_ VIII. of the

_Barberini_ Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the

_Coliseum_, and to build therewith the _Barberini_ Palace. The little that

remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that 'tis very probable, the next

Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the

Prints that we have of it.

The _Pantheon_, or our Lady _de la Rotonda_, is the only ancient Edifice

that has been preserv'd: 'Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to

the Top of the Dome 'tis 144 Feet: _Agrippa_, the Favourite and Son-in-Law

of the Emperor _Augustus_, caus'd this Temple to be built in Honour of all

the Heathen Gods; and 'tis now a Church, dedicated to _All the Saints_.

The only Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof,

which, tho' somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was

formerly cover'd with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. caus'd it to be taken off,

and employ'd in the building of the High Altar of _St. Peter_'s Church;

which occasion'd his Enemies to say, _That the_ Barberini _had done, what

the_ Barbarians _durst not attempt_.

At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Duke _de S----_,

who came to carry me to the Assembly at _Madame de S----_. The Company

there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than

that to which I was introduc'd before: There were few Ladies, and scarce

any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv'd,

that the Assemblies at _Rome_ were not the most entertaining to a

Foreigner, and therefore I resolv'd, which I think was much better, to

employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to

the Capitol, being every where accompany'd by my trusty Antiquarian: 'Tis

a Building compos'd of Three distinct Apartments, detach'd from one

another; Two of which form the advanc'd Wings, and all Three are built of

Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great

Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a spacious Oval, to

which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the

Equestrian Statue of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius_, a noble Remnant of

Antiquity.

From the Capitol I went to the Pope's Palace, call'd _Monte-Cavallo_, from

the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces of _Rome_

is one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by

Order of Pope _Paul_ V. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not

so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After

having sufficiently view'd it, I return'd to my Quarters, where I had

appointed the Marquis _de A----_ to come and go along with me to the

Cardinal _Corsini_. His Eminency, who had an Assembly at is House every

Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company

there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two Assemblies I

had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly

well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or

in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be

at his Assembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I

spent in rambling thro' the several Quarters of _Rome_, to see what was

most remarkable.