Grantcester, on the other, it hasteth to Cambridge ward, taking the
Burne with it by the waie, which descendeth from a castell of the same
denomination, wherein the Picotes and Peuerels sometime did inhabit.
Thence it goeth by sundrie colleges in Cambridge, as the queenes
college, the kings college, Clare hall, Trinitie college, S. Johns, &c:
vnto the high bridge of Cambridge, and betwéene the towne and the
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
castell to Chesterton, and receiuing by and by the Stoure, or Sture (at
whose bridge the most famous mart in England is yearlie holden and kept)
from Chesterton it goeth to Ditton, Milton, and yer long méeting with
two rilles (from Bottesham and Wilberham, in one bottome) it runneth to
[Sidenote: Bulbecke.]
Horningseie, & Water Bech: and finallie here ioining with the Bulbecke
water, it goeth by Dennie, and so forth into the Ouze, fiftéene miles
from Cambridge, as Leland hath set downe. And thus much of the third
Isis or Ouze, out of the aforesaid author: wherevnto I haue not onelie
added somewhat of mine owne experience, but also of other mens notes,
whose diligent obseruation of the course of this riuer hath not a little
helped me in the description of the same. Now it resteth that we come
neerer to the coast of Northfolke, and set foorth such waters as we
passe by vpon the same, wherein I will deale so preciselie as I may: and
so farre will I trauell therein, as I hope shall content euen the curious
reader: or if anie fault be made, it shall not be so great, but that
after some trauell in the finding, it shall with ease be corrected.
The first riuer that therefore we come vnto, after we be past the
confluence of Granta, and the Ouze, and within the iurisdiction of
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Northfolke, is called the Burne. This streame riseth not verie farre
from Burne Bradfield, aboue the greater Wheltham, and from thence it
goeth on to Nawnton, Burie, Farneham Martin, Farneham Alhallowes,
Farneham Genouefa, Hengraue, Flemton, Lackeford, Icklingham, and to
[Sidenote: Dale.]
Milden hall: a little beneath which, it meeteth with the Dale water,
that springeth not farre from Catilege, and going by Asheleie, Moulton
(a benefice as the report goeth not verie well prouided for) to Kenford,
Kenet, Bradingham, Frekenham, it falleth at the last not farre from
Iselham into the Burne, from whence they go togither as one into the
Ouze. With the Burne also there ioineth a water comming from about
Lidgate, a little beneath Iselham, and not verie far from Mildenhall.
[Sidenote: Dunus.]
The Dune head, and rising of Wauenheie, are not much in sunder: for as
it is supposed, they are both not farre distant from the bridge betwéene
Loph[=a]m and Ford, wherby the one runneth east and the other west, as I
haue béene informed. The Dune goeth first of all by Feltham, then to
Hopton, & to Kinets hall, where it meeteth with a water c[=o]ming out of
a lake short of Banham (going, by Quiddenham, Herling, Gasthorpe) and so
on, both in one chanell, they run to Ewston. Here they méet in like
sort, with another descending from two heads, wherof the one is néere
vnto Pakenham, the other to Tauestocke, as I heare. Certes these heads
ioine aboue Ilesworth, not farre from Stow Langtoft, from whence they go
to Yxworth, Thorpe, Berdwell, Hunnington, Fakenham, and so into the Dune
at Ewston; as I said. From hence also they hasten to Downeham, which of
this riuer dooth séeme to borow his name. South Rée rill I passe ouer as
not worthie the description, because it is so small.
[Sidenote: Bradunus fortè.]
Next vnto this riuer on the south side is the Braden, or Bradunus, which
riseth at Bradenham, and goeth by Necton, north Peckenham, south
Peckenham, Kirsingham, Bedneie, Langford, Igbor, Munford, North Old,
Stockebridge, Ferdham, Helgie, and so into the Ouze. The néerest vnto
[Sidenote: Linus.]
this is another which riseth about Lukeham, and from thence commeth to
Lexham, Massingham, Newton, the castell Acre, Acres, Nerboe, Pentneie,
Wrongeie, Rounghton (which at one time might haue béene my liuing if I
would haue giuen sir Thomas Rugband money inough, but now it belongeth
to Gundeuill and Caius college in Cambridge) Westchurch, and so to
Linne. As so dooth also another by north of this, which commeth from the
[Sidenote: Congunus.]
east hilles by Congenham, Grimston, Bawseie, Gaiwood, whereof let this
suffice. And now giue eare to the rest sith I am past the Ouze. Being
[Sidenote: Rising.]
past the mouth or fall of the Ouze, we méet next of all with the Rising
chase water, which Ptolomie (as some thinke) doth call Metaris, and
[Sidenote: Ingell.]
descendeth from two heads, and also the Ingell that commeth from about
Snetsham. From hence we go by the point of saint Edmund, and so hold on
our course till we come vnto the Burne, which falleth into the sea by
south from Waterden, and going betwéene the Crakes to Burnham Thorpe,
and Burnham Norton, it striketh at the last into the sea; east of
Burnham Norton a mile at the least, except my coniecture doo faile me.
[Sidenote: Glouius.]
The Glow or Glowie riseth not far from Baconsthorpe, in the hundred of
Tunsted; & going by and by into Holt hundred, it passeth by Hunworth,
Thornage, Glawnsford, Blackneie, Clare, and so into the sea, receiuing
there at hand also a rill by east, which descendeth from the hilles
lieng betwéene Killing towne and Waiburne.
[Sidenote: Wantsume.]
The Wantsume riseth in Northfolke at Galesend in Holt hundred, from
whence it goeth to Watersend, Townton, Skelthorpe, Farneham, Pensthorpe,
Rieburg, Ellingham, and Billingsford. And here it receiueth two waters
in one bottome, of which the first goeth by Stanfield and Beteleie, the
other by Wandling and Gressonhall, and so run on ech his owne waie, till
they méet at Houndlington, southwest of Billingsford with the Wantsume.
From hence they go all togither to Below, Ieng, Weston, and Moreton; but
[Sidenote: Yocus.]
yer it come to Moreton, it méeteth with the Yowke, which (issuing about
Yexham) goeth by Matteshall and Barrow. After this the said Wantsume
goeth on by Ringland, and so to Norwich the pontificall sée of the bishop,
to whome that iurisdiction apperteineth, which seemeth by this memoriall
yet remaining in the corrupted name of the water, to be called in old
time Venta, or (as Leland addeth) Venta Icenorum. But to procéed.
Beneath Norwich also it receiueth two waters in one chanell, which I
will seuerallie describe, according to their courses, noting their
confluence to be at Bixleie, within two miles of Norwich, except my
annotation deceiue me. The first of these hath two heads wherof one
mounteth vp southwest of Whinborow, goeth by Gerneston, and is the verie
[Sidenote: Hierus.]
[Sidenote: Gerus.]
Hiere or Yare that drowneth the name of Wantsume, so soone as he meeteth
withall. The other head riseth at Wood in Mitford hundred, and after
confluence with the Hiere at Caston, going by Brandon, Bixton, Berford,
Erleham, Cringlefield (not farre from Bixleie as I said) doth méet with
his companion, which is the second to be described as followeth. It hath
two heads also that méet northwest of Therstane; and hereof the one
commeth from Findon hall, by Wrenningham from about Wotton, by Hemnall,
Fretton, Stretton, and Tasborow, till they ioine at Therston, as I gaue
notice aforehand. From Therston therefore they go togither in one to
Newton, Shotesham, Dunston, Castor, Arminghale, Bixleie, Lakenham, and
Trowse, and then fall into the Wantsume beneath Norwich, which hereafter
is named Hiere. The Hiere, Yare, or Gare therefore proceeding in his
voiage, as it were to salute his grandame the Ocean, goeth from thence
by Paswijc, Surlingham, Claxton, and Yardleie; and here it meeteth
againe with another riueret descending from about Shotesham to
Therstane, Shedgraue, Hockingham, and so into Gare or Yare, whereof
Yardleie the towne receiueth denomination. After this it goeth to
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
Frethorpe, and aboue Burgh castell meeteth with the Waueneie, and so
into the sea.
[Sidenote: Bure.]
Into this riuer also falleth the Bure, which rising at a towne of the
same name, passeth by Milton, Buresdune, Corpesteie, Marington,
Blekeling, Bure, Alesham, Brampton, Buxton, Horsted, Werxham bridge,
[Sidenote: Thurinus.]
Horning, Raneworth; and beneath Bastewijc receiueth the Thurine which
riseth aboue Rolesbie; then to Obie, Clipsbie (there also receiuing
another from Filbie) Rimham, Castor, and by Yarmouth into the Ocean. The
Waueneie afore mentioned, riseth on the south side of Brisingham, and is
a limit betweene Northfolke and Suffolke. Going therefore by Dis,
Starton, not farre from Octe, it méeteth with the Eie, which riseth
néere Ockold, or betwéene it and Braisworth, & goeth on by Brome, Octe,
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
and so into the Waueneie. From thence our Waueneie runneth by Silam,
Brodish, Nedam, Harleston, Rednam, Alborow, Flixton, Bungeie,
Sheepemedow, Barsham, Beckles, Albie, & at Whiteacre (as I heare)
parteth in twaine, or receiuing Milford water (which is most likelie) it
[Sidenote: Einus.]
goeth along by Somerleie, Hormingfléet, S. Olaues, (there receiuing the
[Sidenote: Fritha.]
Frithstane or Fristan brooke, out of low or litle England) Fristan &
Burgh castell, where it méeteth with the Hiere, & from thencefoorth
accompanieth it (as I said) vnto the sea. Willingham water commeth by
Hensted, Einsted, or Enistate, and falleth into the sea by south of
Kesland.
[Sidenote: Cokelus.]
The Cokell riseth south southwest of Cokeleie towne in Blithe hundred,
and neere vnto Hastelworth it meeteth with the rill that commeth from
Wisset, and so going on togither by Wenhaston, and Bliborow, it falleth
into the sea at an hauen betwéene Roidon and Walderswicke. A little rill
runneth also thereinto from Eston by Sowold, and another from Dunwich,
by Walderswijke: and hereby it wanteth little that Eston Nesse is not
cut off and made a pretie Iland.
[Sidenote: Ford.]
The Ford riseth at Yoxford, and going by Forderleie, and Theberton, it
[Sidenote: Orus.]
falleth at last into Mismere créeke. Into the Oreford hauen runneth one
water comming from Aldborow ward, by a narrow passage from the north
[Sidenote: Fromus.]
into the south. By west wherof (when we are past a little Ile) it
receiueth the second, descending from betwéene Talingston and Framingham
in Plomes hundred; which c[=o]ming at last to Marleford, meeteth with a
[Sidenote: Glema.]
rill southwest of Farnham called the Gleme (that commeth by Rendlesham,
the Gleinhams) and so passing foorth, it taketh another at Snapesbridge,
comming from Carleton by Saxmundham, Sternefield & Snape. Then going to
[Sidenote: Iken, or Ike.]
Iken (where it méeteth with the third rill at the west side) it fetcheth
a compasse by Sudburne east of Orford, and so into the hauen. Next vnto
this by west of Orford, there runneth vp another créeke by Butleie,
whereinto the waters comming from Cellesford, and from the Ike, doo run
both in one bottome. And thus much of Orford hauen.
[Sidenote: Deua.]
The Deue riseth in Debenham, in the hundred of Hertesméere, and from
thence goeth to Mickford, Winston, Cretingham, Lethringham, Wickham,
hitherto still creeping toward the south: but then going in maner full
south, it runneth neere vnto Ash, Rendlesham, Vfford, Melton, and
Woodbridge, beneath which it receiueth on the west side, a water comming
of two heads, wherof one is by north from Oteleie, and the other by
south from Henleie, which ioining west of Mertelsham, go vnto the said
towne and so into the Deue, east of Mertelsham abouesaid. From thence
the Deue goeth by Waldringfield and Henleie, and méeting soone after
[Sidenote: Clarus fons.]
with Brightwell brooke, it hasteth into the maine sea, leauing Bawdseie
on the east, where the fall therof is called Bawdseie hauen.
[Sidenote: Vrus.]
Vre riseth not farre from Bacton, in Hertesmeere hundred, and thense
descendeth into Stow hundred by Gipping Newton, Dagworth, Stow (beneath
which it méeteth with a water comming from Rattlesden, by one house) and
so going on to Nedeham (through Bosméere and Claidon hundreds) to
Blakenham, Bramford, Ypswich, receiuing beneath Stoke, which lieth ouer
against Ypswich, the Chatsham water, that goeth by Belsted, and so into
the Vre, at the mouth whereof is a maruellous deepe and large pit,
whereof some marriners saie that they could neuer find the bottome, and
therefore calling it a well, and ioining the name of the riuer withall,
it commeth to passe that the hauen there is called Vrewell, for which in
these daies we doo pronounce it Orwell. Into this hauen also the Sture
or Stoure hath readie passage, which remaineth in this treatise next of
all to be described.
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
The Sture or Stoure parteth Essex from Suffolke, as Houeden saith, and
experience confirmeth. It ariseth in Suffolke, out of a lake neere vnto
a towne called Stourméere. For although there come two rilles vnto the
same, whereof the one descendeth from Thirlo, the Wratings and Ketton,
the other from Horshed parke, by Hauerill, &c: yet in summer time they
are often drie, so that they cannot be said to be perpetuall heads vnto
the aforesaid riuer. The Stoure therefore (being, as I take it, called
by Ptolomie, Edomania, for thereon toward the mouth standeth a prettie
towne named Manitrée, which carieth some shadow of that ancient name
thereof vnto this daie, if my coniecture be any thing) ariseth at
Stouremeere, which is a poole conteining twentie acres of ground at the
least, the one side whereof is full of alders, the other of réeds,
wherin the great store of fish there bred, is not a little succoured.
From this méere also it goeth to Bathorne bridge, to Stocke clare,
Cawndish, Pentlo, Paules Beauchampe, Milford, Foxerth, Buresleie,
Sudburie, Bures, Boxsted, Stoke, Nailand, Lanham, Dedham, Strotford,
east Barfold, Brampton, Manitree, Catwade bridge, and so into the sea,
where in the verie fall also it ioineth with Orwell hauen, so néere that
of manie they are reputed as one, and parted but by a shingle that dooth
run along betwéene them: neither dooth it passe cléere in this voiage,
but as it were often occupied by the waie, in receiuing sundrie brookes
and rilles not héere to be omitted.
For on Essex side it hath one from Hemsted, which goeth by Bumsted, and
Birdbrooke: another rising short of Foxerth, that runneth by water
Beauchampe, Brundon, and falleth into the same at Badlington, west of
Sudburie: and the third that glideth by Horkesleie, and méeteth withall
west of Boxsted. On the north, or vpon Suffolke side, it receiueth one
descending from Catiledge, by Bradleie, Thurlow, Wratting, Kiddington,
and at Hauerell falleth into this Sture. The second descendeth northward
from Posling field, and ioineth therewith east of Clare. It was in old
time called Cicux or Ceuxis, and it méeteth with the Stoure in such wise
that they séeme to make a right angle, in the point almost wherof
standeth a ruinous castell. Howbeit as sithence which time this water
(in some mens iudgement) hath béene named Clarus (not so much for the
greatnesse as clearnesse of the streame) even so the Stoure it selfe was
also called Ens as they say, and after their confluence the whole
Clarens, which giueth denomination to a duchie of this Iland of no small
fame and honour. But these are but méere fables, sith the word Clare is
deriued from the towne, wherein was an house of religion erected to one
Clara, and Clarens brought from the same, because of an honour the
prince had in those parties: which may suffice to know from whence the
name proceedeth. The third ariseth of two heads, whereof one commeth
from Wickham brooke, the other from Chedbar in Risbie hundred, and
ioining about Stanfield, it goeth by Hawton, Somerton, Boxsted,
Stansted, and north of Foxerth falleth into Stoure. The fourth issueth
from betwéene the Waldingfields, and goeth by Edwardstone, Boxsted,
Alington, Polsted, Stoke, and so at south Boxsted falleth into the same.
The fift riseth northwest of Cockefield, and goeth to Cockefield,
[Sidenote: Kettle baston.]
Laneham, Brimsleie, Midling, and receiuing Kettle Baston water southwest
of Chelsworth (and likewise the Breton that commeth from Bretenham, by
Hitcheham, and Bisseton stréet on the south east of the same towne) it
goeth in by Nedging, Aldham, Hadleie, Lainham, Shellie, Higham, and so
into the Stoure. The sixt is a little rill descending southwest from
Chappell. The seuenth riseth betweene Chappell and Bentleie, and going
betwéene Tatingston, and Whetsted, Holbrooke, and Sutton, it falleth at
length into Stoure, and from thence is neuer heard of.
[Sidenote: Ocleie.]
As for Ocleie Drill, that riseth betweene Ocleie, and Wikes parkes, and
so goeth into the Stoure, on Essex side, west of Harwich, and east of
Rée Ile; I passe it ouer, because it is of it selfe but a rill, and not
of anie greatnesse, till it come to the mill aboue Ramseie bridge, where
I was once almost drowned (by reason of the ruinous bridge which leadeth
ouer the streame being there verie great) as an arme of the sea that
continuallie ebbeth & floweth. Next vnto this, we came to another that
[Sidenote: Mosa.]
runneth south of Beaumont by Mosse, and falleth into the sea about the
middest of the Baie, betwixt Harwich and the Naze. Betwixt the Naze also
and the mouth of Colne, is another rill, which riseth at little Bentleie,
[Sidenote: Claco.]
and thence goeth to Tendring thorpe, through Clacton parke by great
Holland, and east of little Holland, into the déepe sea.
[Sidenote: Colunus.]
The Colne hath three heads, whereof one is at Ouington that goeth by
Tilberie, and east of Yeldam falleth into the chiefe head which riseth
about Redgewell in Essex, from whence also it goeth to Yeldam and
Hedingham, otherwise called Yngham: also Hedningham or Heuedingham, [*]
[Sidenote: * Sic.]
or Heuedingham of the superioritie which accrued therevnto, because the
chiefe lords of the same from time to time kept residence in the towne.
For Heued or Hed signifieth The chiefe, in the old English language,
which in the name of this and manie other townes and villages yet
standing in England cannot easilie be forgotten. The third falleth in
south of Yeldam, and being once met all in one chanell, and called the
Colne, it goeth (as I said) to Hedningham, Hawsted, Erles Colne, Wakes
Colne, Fordon, Bardfold, Colchester, in old time Camalodunum, and so
into the sea at Brickleseie. Some thinke that Colchester and Camalodunum
are sundrie cities and situat in diuerse places, whereby Maldon (or
Ithancester out of whose ruines the said towne of Maldon was erected)
should rather be Camalodunum than Colchester, but hereof I cannot iudge.
Indeed if (as Leland saith) Maldon should be written Malodunum, it were
a likelihood that there assertions should be probable. Some reason also
may be gathered for the same out of Dion, and such as make the Thames
mouth to take his beginning at Colchester water. But I dare not presume
to conclude any thing hereof, least I should séeme rashlie to take hold
of euerie coniecture. This I relie vpon rather as a more certeintie,
that in the first edition of this treatise I was persuaded, that the sea
entring by the Colne made thrée seuerall passages fr[=o] thence into the
land: but now I vnderstand that these are seuerall entrances and
streames, of which the Colne is one, another is the Salcote water, which
commeth in beneath the Stroud (a causeie that leadeth vnto Merseie Ile,
ouer which the sea méeteth with a contrarie course) and the third the
faire arme that floweth vnto Maldon, and all these thrée haue their
falles either ouer against or néere vnto the aforesaid Ile, which at a
low water is not halfe a mile from the shore. Into the Colne or Colunus
also (whereof Leland thinketh Colchester to take his name, and not A
colonia Romanorum, although I may not consent to him herein) doo run
manie salt creekes beneath Fingering ho, of whose names sith I doo not
know, nor whether they be serued with anie backewaters or not, I giue
ouer to intreat anie further & likewise of their positions. Into that of
Maldon runneth manie faire waters, whereof I will saie so much as I know
to be true in maner by experience.
[Sidenote: Gwin or Pant.]
There is a pretie water that beginneth néere vnto Gwinbach or Winbeche
church in Essex, a towne of old, and yet belonging to the Fitzwaters,
taking name of Gwin, which is beautifull or faire, & Bache that
signifieth a wood: and not without cause, sith not onelie the hilles on
ech side of the said rillet, but all the whole paroch hath sometime
abounded in woods; but now in manner they are vtterlie decaied, as the
like commoditie is euerie where, not onelie thorough excessiue building
for pleasure more than profit, which is contrarie to the ancient end of
building; but also for more increase of pasture & commoditie to the
lords of the soile, through their sales of that emolument, whereby the
poore tenants are inforced to buie their fewell, and yet haue their
rents in triple maner inhanced.) This said brooke runneth directlie from
thence vnto Radwinter, now a parcell of your lordships possessions in
those parts, descended from the Chamberleins, who were sometime chéefe
owners of the same. By the waie also it is increased with sundrie pretie
springs, of which Pantwell is the chéefe (whereof some thinke the whole
brooke to be named Pant) and which (to saie the truth) hath manie a
leasing fathered on the same. Certes by the report of common fame it
hath béene a pretie water, and of such quantitie, that botes haue come
in time past from Bilie abbeie beside Maldon vnto the moores in
Radwinter for corne. I haue heard also that an anchor was found there
neere to a red willow, when the water-courses by act of parlement were
surueied and reformed throughout England, which maketh not a little with
the aforesaid relation. But this is strangest of all, that a lord
sometime of Winbech (surnamed the great eater, because he would breake
his fast with a whole calfe, and find no bones therein as the fable
goeth) falling at contention with the lord Iohn of Radwinter, could
worke him none other iniurie, but by stopping vp the head of Pantwell,
to put by the vse of a mill which stood by the church of Radwinter, and
was serued by that brooke abundantlie. Certes I know the place where the
mill stood, and some posts thereof doo yet remaine. But sée the malice
of mankind, whereby one becommeth a woolfe vnto the other in their
mischeeuous moodes. For when the lord saw his mill to be so spoiled, he
in reuenge of his losse, brake the necke of his aduersarie, when he was
going to horsebacke, as the constant report affirmeth. For the lord of
Radwinter holding a parcell of his manour of Radwinter hall of the
Fitzwaters, his sonne was to hold his stirrop at certeine times when he
should demand the same. Shewing himselfe therefore prest on a time to
doo his said seruice, as the Fitzwater was readie to lift his leg ouer
the saddle, he by putting backe his foot, gaue him such a thrust that he
fell backward, and brake his necke: wherevpon insued great trouble, till
the matter was taken vp by publike authoritie; and that seruile office
conuerted into a pound of pepper, which is trulie paid to this daie. But
to leaue these impertinent discourses, and returne againe to the springs
whereby our Pant or Gwin is increased. There is likewise another in a
pasture belonging to the Grange, now in possession of William Bird
esquier, who holdeth the same in the right of his wife, but in time past
belonging to Tilteie abbeie. The third commeth out of the yard of one of
your lordships manors there called Radwinter hall. The fourth from Iohn
Cockswets house, named the Rotherwell, which running vnder Rothers
bridge, méeteth with the Gwin or Pant on the northwest end of Ferrants
meade, southeast of Radwinter church, whereof I haue the charge by your
honours fauourable preferment.