Search all England and find not the like.
[Sidenote: Lindis, Witham, Rhe.]
Leland calleth it Lindis, diuerse the Rhe, and I haue read all these
names my selfe: and thereto that the Lincolneshire men were called in
old time Coritani, and their head citie Lindus, Lindon, or Linodunum, in
which region also Ptolomie placeth Rage, which some take to be
Notingham, except my memorie doo faile me. It riseth among the Wickhams,
in the edge of Lincolnshire, and (as I take it) in south-Wickham paroch,
from whence it goeth to Colsterworth, Easton, Kirkestoke Paunton, and
Paunton Houghton, and at Grantham taketh in a rill from by southwest, as
I heare. From Grantham it runneth to Man, Thorpe, Bolton, and Barneston,
where crossing a becke from northeast, it procéedeth further southwest
ward by Mereston, toward Faston (there also taking in a brooke that
riseth about Denton, and goeth by Sidbrooke) it hasteth to Dodington,
Clapale, Barmebie, Beckingham, Stapleford, Bassingham, Thursbie, and
beneath Amburgh crosseth a water that commeth from Stogilthorpe by
Somerton castell.
After this confluence also, our Witham goeth still foorth on his waie to
the Hickhams, Boltham, Bracebridge, and Lincolne it selfe, for which the
Normans write Nicholl by transposition of the letters, or (as I may
better saie) corruption of the word. But yer it come there, it maketh
certeine pooles (whereof one is called Swan poole) and soone after
diuiding it selfe into armes, they run both thorough the lower part of
Lincolne, each of them hauing a bridge of stone ouer it, thereby to
passe through the principall stréet: and as the bigger arme is well able
to beare their fisher botes, so the lesser is not without his seuerall
[Sidenote: Fosse dike.]
commodities. At Lincolne also this noble riuer méeteth with the Fosse
dike, whereby in great floods vessels may come from the Trents side to
Lincolne. For betweene Torkseie, where it beginneth, and Lincolne citie,
where it endeth, are not aboue seuen miles, as Leland hath remembred.
Bishop Atwater began to clense this ditch, thinking to bring great
vessels from Trent to Lincolne in his time: but sith he died before it
was performed, there hath no man beene since so well minded as to
prosecute his purpose. The course moreouer of this our streame
following, from Lincolne to Boston is fiftie miles by water: but if you
mind to ferrie, you shall haue but 24. For there are foure common places
where men are ferried ouer; as Short ferrie, fiue miles from Lincolne,
Tatersall ferrie, eight miles from Short ferrie, Dogdike ferrie a mile,
Langreth ferrie fiue miles, and so manie finallie to Boston.
But to go forward with the course of Lindis (whereof the whole prouince
hath béene called Lindeseie) when it is past Lincolne, it goeth by
Shepewash, Wassingburg, Fiskerton, and soone after taketh in sundrie
riuers in one chanell, whereby his greatnesse is verie much increased.
From this confluence it goeth to Bardolfe, and there receíuing a rill
(descending from betweene Sotbie and Randbie, and going by Harton) it
slideth foorth by Tupham to Tatersall castell, taking vp there in like
sort thrée small rills by the waie, whereof I haue small notice as yet:
and therefore I referre them vnto a further consideration to be had of
them hereafter, if it shall please God that I may liue to haue the
filing of these rude pamphlets yet once againe, & somewhat more leasure
to peruse them than at this time is granted. Finallie, being past
Tatersall, and Dogdike ferrie, the Witham goeth toward Boston, & thence
into the sea. Thus haue I brieflie dispatched this noble riuer Witham.
But hauing another note deliuered me thereof from a fréend, I will yéeld
so farre vnto his gratification, that I will remember his trauell here,
and set downe also what he hath written thereof, although the riuer be
sufficientlie described alredie.
[Sidenote: Witham.]
Into Witham therefore from by north, and seuen miles beneath Lincolne,
[Sidenote: Hake.]
there falleth a faire water, the head whereof is at Hakethorne, from
whence it goeth by Hanworth, Snarford, Resbie, Stainton, and at
Bullington méeteth with a water on ech side, whereof one commeth from
Haiton and Turrington, the other from Sudbrooke, and likewise beneath
Birlings with the third comming from Barkeworth by Stansted, and ioining
all in one, soone after it is not long yer it fall into the chanell of
Witham, and so are neuer more heard of. There is also a brooke by
southwest, that commeth from Kirbie to Cateleie, Billingams, and the
[Sidenote: Bane.]
Ferrie. At Tatersall it méeteth with the Bane, which riseth aboue Burgh,
and néere vnto Ludford goeth downe to Dunnington, Stanigod, Hemmingsbie,
Bamburgh, Fillington, Horne castell, (where it crosseth a rill from
Belchworth) Thornton, Marton, Halton, Kirkebie, Comsbie, Tatersall, and
so to Dogdike ferrie.
Aboue Boston likewise it taketh in a water comming from Lusebie by
Bolingbrooke, Stickeford, Stickneie, Sibbeseie and Hildrike. And to
Boston towne it selfe doo finallie come sundrie brookes in one chanell,
called Hammond becke, which rising at Donesbie, runneth on to
Wrightbold, where it casteth one arme into Holiwell water. Thence it
hasteth toward Dunnington, receiuing four brookes by the waie, whereof
the first commeth from Milthorpe, the second from Fokingham, called
[Sidenote: Bollingborow.]
[Sidenote: Sempringham.]
Bollingborow, or (after some, I wote not vpon what occasion) Sempringham
water, the third from Bridge end, the fourth from Sempringham, and
afterwards the maine streame is found to run by Kirton holme, and so
into the Witham. Into the Wiland likewise falleth the Holiwell, which
riseth of a spring that runneth toward the east from Haliwell to Onebie,
Esonden, Gretford, and so to Catbridge, where it receiueth another
rising at Witham and west of Manthorpe, and the second comming from Laund,
and so run from thence togither to Willesthorpe and Catbridge, and then
into the Haliwell, which after these confluences goeth to Tetford and
Eastcote, where it meeteth with a draine, comming from Bourne, and so
through the fennes to Pinchbecke, Surfleet, and Fosdike, where it
méeteth with the Welland, in the mouth of the Wash, as I haue noted vnto
you.
[Sidenote: Wiland.]
Hauing thus set foorth the riuers that fall into the Witham, now come we
to the Wiland or Welland, wherevnto we repaire after we be past Boston,
as drawing by litle and litle toward the Girwies, which inhabit in the
fennes (for Gir in the old Saxon speach dooth signifie déepe fennes and
marishes) and these beginning at Peterborow eastward, extend themselues
by the space of thrée score miles & more, as Hugh of Peterborow writeth.
This streame riseth about Sibbertoft, and running betwéene Bosworth and
Howthorpe, it goeth to Féedingworth, Merson, Bubberham, Trussell,
[Sidenote: Braie.]
Herborow (receiuing there the Braie, which commeth from Braiebrooke
castell) to Bowton, Weston, Wiland, Ashleie, Medburne, Rokingham, and
Cawcot, where a riueret called little Eie méeteth withall, comming from
east Norton by Alexstone, Stocke, Fasten, and Drie stocke. From Cawcot
it goeth to Gritto, Harringworth, Seton, Wauerlie, Duddington, Collie
[Sidenote: Warke.]
Weston, Eston, and there ioineth with the third called Warke, not far
from Ketton, which commeth from Lie by Preston, Wing, Lindon, Luffenham,
[Sidenote: Brooke water.]
&c. Thence it goeth on by Tinwell, to Stanford (crossing the Brooke
[Sidenote: Whitnell.]
water, and Whitnelbecke, both in one bottome) and from Stanford by
Talington, Mareie, to Mercate Deeping, Crowland (where it almost meeteth
with the Auon) then to Spalding, Whapland, and so into the sea.
Leland writing of this Wiland, addeth these words which I will not omit,
sith in mine opinion they are worthie to be noted, for better
consideration to be had in the said water and his course. The Wiland
(saith he) going by Crowland, at Newdrene diuideth it selfe into two
[Sidenote: Newdrene.]
branches, of which one goeth vp to Spalding called Newdrene, and so into
[Sidenote: South.]
the sea at Fossedike Stow: the other named the South into Wisbech. This
latter also parteth it selfe two miles from Crowland, & sendeth a rill
[Sidenote: Writhlake.]
called Writhlake by Thorneie, where it méeteth with an arme of the Nene,
that commeth from Peterborow, and holdeth course with the broad streame,
till it be come to Murho, six miles from Wisbech, where it falleth into
the South.
[Sidenote: Shéepees eie.]
Out of the South in like sort falleth another arme called Sheepes eie
and at Hopelode (which is fouretéene miles from Lin) did fall into the
sea. But now the course of that streame is ceased, wherevpon the
inhabitants susteine manie grieuous flouds, bicause the mouth is
stanched, by which it had accesse before into the sea. Hitherto Leland.
Of the course of this riuer also from Stanford, I note this furthermore
out of another writing in my time. Being past Stanton (saith he) it
goeth by Burghleie, Vffington, Tallington, Mareie, Déeping, east
Deeping, and comming to Waldram hall, it brancheth into two armes,
whereof that which goeth to Singlesole, receiueth the Nene out of
Cambridgeshire, and then going by Dowesdale, Trekenhole, and winding at
last to Wisbech, it goeth by Liuerington, saint Maries, and so into the
sea. The other arme hasteth to Crowland, Clowthouse, Bretherhouse,
Pikale, Cowbecke and Spalding. Here also it receiueth the Baston dreane,
Longtoft dreane, Déeping dreane, and thence goeth by Wickham into the
sea, taking withall on the right hand sundrie other dreanes. And thus
farre he.
Next of all, when we are past these, we come to another fall of water
into the Wash, which descendeth directlie from Whaplade dreane to
Whaplade towne in Holland: but bicause it is a water of small
importance, I passe from thence, as hasting to the Nene, of both the
more noble riuer: and about the middest thereof in place is a certeine
swallow, so déepe and so cold in the middest of summer, that no man dare
diue to the bottome thereof for coldnesse, and yet for all that in
winter neuer found to haue béene touched with frost, much lesse to be
[Sidenote: Auon.]
couered with ise. The next therefore to be described is the Auon,
[Sidenote: Nene.]
otherwise called Nene, which the said author describeth after this
maner. The Nene beginneth foure miles aboue Northampton in Nene méere,
where it riseth out of two heads, which ioine about Northampton. Of this
riuer the citie and countrie beareth the name, although we now pronounce
Hampton for Auondune, which errour is committed also in south Auondune,
as we may easilie see. In another place Leland describeth the said riuer
after this maner. The Auon riseth in Nene méere field, and going by
Oundale and Peterborow, it diuideth it selfe into thrée armes, whereof
one goeth to Horneie, another to Wisbech, the third to Ramseie: and
afterward being vnited againe, they fall into the sea not verie farre
from Lin. Finallie, the descent of these waters leaue here a great sort
of Ilands, wherof Elie, Crowland, and Mersland, are the chiefe. Hitherto
Leland.
Howbeit, because neither of these descriptions touch the course of this
riuer at the full, I will set downe the third, which shall supplie
whatsoeuer the other doo want. The Auon therefore arising in Nenemere
field, is increased with manie rilles, before it come at Northampton, &
one aboue Kings thorpe, from whence it goeth to Dallington, and so to
Northhampton, where it receiueth the Wedon. And here I will staie, till
[Sidenote: Vedunus.]
I haue described this riuer. The Wedon therefore riseth at Faulesse in
master Knightlies pooles, and in Badbie plashes also are certeine
springs that resort vnto this streame. Faulesse pooles are a mile from
Chareton, where the head of Chare riuer is, that runneth to Banberie.
There is but an hill called Alberie hill betwéene the heads of these two
riuers.
From the said hill therefore the Wedon directeth his course to Badbie,
Newenham, Euerton, Wedon, betwixt which and Floretowne, it receiueth the
[Sidenote: Florus.]
Florus (a pretie water rising of foure heads, whereof the one is at
Dauentrie, another at Watford, the third at long Bucke, the fourth aboue
Whilton) and then passeth on to Heiford, Kislingberie, Vpton, and so to
Northhampton, where it falleth into the Auon, receiuing finallie by the
[Sidenote: Bugius.]
waie the Bugbrooke water at Heiford, Patshall water néere Kislingberie,
and finallie Preston water beneath Vpton, which running from Preston by
Wootton, méeteth at the last with Milton rill, and so fall into Auon.
Now to resume the tractation of our Auon. From Northhampton therefore it
runneth by Houghton, great Billing, Whitstone, Dodington, and
Willingborow, where we must staie a while: for betweene Willingborow and
[Sidenote: Kilis.]
Higham ferries, it receiueth a pretie water comming from about Kilmarsh,
which going by Ardingworth, Daisborow, Rusheton, Newton, Gaddington,
Boughton, Warketon, Kettering, Berton, and Burton, méeteth there with
[Sidenote: Rother.]
Rothwell water, which runneth west of Kettering to Hisham, the greater
Haridon, and then into the Auon.
Being therfore past Burton, our maine streame goeth to Higham Ferries,
Artleborow, Ringsted, Woodford, and (méeting thereby with Cranford rill)
[Sidenote Ocleie.]
to Thraxton, north whereof it ioineth also with the Ocleie water, that
commeth from Sudborow and Lowicke, to old Vmkles, Waden ho, Pilketon,
Toke (where it taketh in the Liueden becke) and so to Oundell,
Cotterstocke, Tansoner, and betweene Tothering and Warmington receiueth
[Sidenote: Corbie.]
the Corbie water, which rising at Corbie, goeth by Weldon, Denethap,
Bulwich, Bletherwijc, Fineshed, Axthorpe, Newton, Tothering, and so into
the Auon. After this, the said Auon goeth to Elton, Massittgton,
Yerwell, Sutton, Castor, Allerton, and so to Peterborow, where it
diuideth it selfe into sundrie armes, and those into seuerall branches
and draines, among the fennes and medowes, not possible almost to be
numbred, before it méet with the sea on the one side of the countrie,
and fall into the Ouze on the other.
[Sidenote: Isis 3.]
The Ouze, which Leland calleth the third Isis, falleth into the sea
betwéene Mersland & Downeham. The chiefe head of this riuer ariseth
néere to Stanes, from whence it commeth to Brackleie (sometime a noble
towne in Northampton shire, but now scarselie a good village) and there
taking in on the left hand one water comming from the parke betwéene
[Sidenote: Sisa.]
Sisam and Astwell (which runneth by Whitfield and Tinweston) and another
[Sidenote: Imelus.]
on the right from Imleie, it goeth on by Westbirie, Fulwell, water
Stretford, Buckingham, and Berton, beneath which towne the Erin falleth
into it, whereof I find this short description to be inserted here. The
[Sidenote: Erin.]
Erin riseth not farre from Hardwijc in Northamptonshire, from hence it
goeth by Heth, Erinford, Godderington, Twiford, Steeple Cladon, & yer it
[Sidenote: Garan.]
come at Padbirie, méeteth with the Garan brooke descending from
Garanburge, and so they go togither by Padbirie, till they fall into the
Ouze, which carieth them after the confluence to Thorneton bridge (where
they crosse another fall of water comming from Whitlewood forrest by
Luffeld, Lecamsted and Foscot) and so to Beachampton, Culuerton, Stonie
Stratford, and Woluerton.
[Sidenote: Verus.]
Here the Ouze méeteth with a water (called, as Leland coniectureth, the
Vere or Were) on the left hand, as you go downewards, that commeth
betwéene Wedon and Wexenham in Northamptonshire, and goeth by Towcester,
and Alderton, and not farre from Woluerton and Hauersham into the
foresaid Ouze, which goeth also from hence to Newportpaganell, where in
like sort I must staie a while till I haue described another water,
[Sidenote: Cle aliàs Claius.]
named the Clée, by whose issue the said streame is not a little
increased. This riuer riseth in the verie confines betwéene Buckingham
and Bedfordshires, not farre from Whippesnade, and going on toward the
northwest, by Eaton and Laiton, it commeth to Linchlade, where it
entreth whollie into Buckinghamshire, and so goeth on by Hammond,
Brickle, Fennie Stratford, Simpson, Walton and Middleton, beneath which
[Sidenote: Saw.]
it receiueth the Saw from aboue Halcot, and so goeth on till it meet
with the Ouze néere vnto Newport, as I haue said. Being vnited
therefore, we set forward from the said towne, and follow this noble
riuer, to Lathbirie, Thuringham, Filgrane, Lawndon, Newington, Bradfield
on the one side, and Turueie on the other, till it come at length to
Bedford after manie windlesses, and then méeteth with another streame,
which is increased with so manie waters, that I was inforced to make an
imagined staie here also, and view their seuerall courses, supposing my
selfe to looke downe from the highest steeple in Bedford, whence (as
best meane to view anie countrie wheresoeuer) I note the same as
followeth.
Certes on the east side, where I began this speculation, I saw one that
came from Potton, and met withall néere Becliswade: another that grew of
two waters, wherof one descended from Baldocke, the other from Hitchin,
which ioined beneth Arleseie, and thence went to Langford and Edworth.
[Sidenote: These rise not far from Michelborow
& one of them in Higham parke.]
The third which I beheld had in like sort two heads, wherof one is not
farre from Wood end, the other from Wooburne (or Howburne), and ioining
about Flitwijc, they go to Flitton (where they receiue Antill brooke)
and so by Chiphill, and Chicksand, they come to Shafford, from whence
taking the aforsaid Langford water with them, they go foorth by
Becliswade, Sandie, Blumham, and neere vnto Themisford are vnited with
the Ouze. And now to our purpose againe.
[Sidenote: Verus or the Were.]
After this the Ouze goeth by Berkeford, to Winteringham (méeting there
with the Wareslie becke) and so runneth to S. Neotes (or saint Nedes, in
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
old time Goluesburg, as Capgraue saith In vita Neoti) to Paxston,
Offordes, and so to Godmanchester, in old time called Gumicester, which
(as it should séeme) hath béene a towne of farre greater countenance
than at this present it is; for out of the ruines thereof much Romane
coine is found, and sometimes with the image of C. Antius which hath
long haire, as the Romans had before they receiued barbars into their
citie, and therevnto the bones of diuerse men of farre greater stature
than is credible to be spoken of in these daies. But what stand I vpon
these things? From hence therfore our water goeth on to Huntingdon,
Wilton, saint Iues, Holiwell, and Erith, receiueth in the meane time the
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
[Sidenote: Helenus.]
[Sidenote: Elmerus.]
Stow (néere vnto little Paxton) and likewise the Ellen, and the Emmer,
in one chanell a little by west of Huntingdon.
Finallie, the maine streame spreading abroad into the Fennes, I cannot
tell into how manie branches, neither how manie Ilets are inforced by
the same; although of Iles, Marshland, Ancarig or Ancarie be the chiefe,
and of which this later is called Crowland (as Crowland also hight
thornie A cruda terra, or store of bushes saith Hugo le Blanc) sometime
growing in the same, and Ancarijc because sundrie Ancres haue liued &
borne great swaie therein. But howsoeuer this case standeth, this is
certeine, that after it hath thus delited it selfe with ranging a while
about the pleasant bottoms & lower grounds, it méeteth with the Granta,
from whence it goeth with a swift course vnto Downeham. Betwéene it also
and the Auon, are sundrie large meeres or plashes, by southwest of
Peterborow full of powts and carpes, whereof Whittleseie méere, and
[Sidenote: Riuelus.]
Ramseie méere (whereinto the Riuall falleth), that commeth from aboue
Broughton, Wiston, and great Riuelleie) are said to be greatest. Of all
[Sidenote: Granta.]
the riuers that run into this streame, that called Granta (whereof the
whole countie in old time was called Grantabrycshire, as appéereth by
the register of Henrie prior of Canturburie) is the most noble and
excellent, which I will describe euen in this place, notwithstanding
that I had earst appointed it vnto my second booke. But for somuch as a
description of Ouze and Granta were deliuered me togither, I will for
his sake that gaue them me, not separate them now in sunder.
The verie furthest head and originall of this riuer is in Henham, a
large parke belonging to the earle of Sussex, wherein (as the townesmen
saie) are foure springs that run foure sundrie waies into the maine sea.
Leland sought not the course of this water aboue Newport pond, and
therefore in his commentaries vpon the song of the swan, he writeth
thereof after this maner insuing. Although doctor Iohn Caius the learned
physician, and some other are of the opinion, that this riuer comming
from Newport, is properlie to be called the Rhée: but I may not so
easilie dissent from Leland, whose iudgement in my mind is by a great
deale the more likelie. Harken therefore what he saith.
The head of Grantha or Granta, is in the pond at Newport, a towne of the
east Saxons, which going in a bottome beside the same, receiueth a
pretie rill, which in the middest thereof dooth driue a mill, and
descendeth from Wickin Bonhant, that standeth not farre from thence.
Being past Newport, it goeth alongst in the lower ground, vntill it come
to Broke Walden, west of Chipping Walden (now Saffron Walden) hard by
the lord Awdleis place, where the right honorable Thomas Howard with his
houshold doo soiourne, and sometime stood an abbeie of Benedictine
moonks, before their generall suppression. From Awdleie end it goeth to
Littleburie, the lesse and greater Chesterfords, Yealdune, Hincstone,
[Sidenote: Babren.]
Seoston or Sawson, and néere vnto Shaleford receiueth the Babren that
commeth by Linton, Abbington, Babrenham, and Stapleford: and so going
forward it commeth at the last to Trompington, which is a mile from
Cambridge. But yer it come altogither to Trompington, it méeteth with
[Sidenote: Rhée.]
the Barrington water, as Leland calleth it, but some other the Rhee (a
common name to all waters in the Saxon speech) whereof I find this
description, to be touched by the waie. The Rhée riseth short of Ashwell
in Hertfordshire, and passing under the bridge betweene Gilden Mordon
and Downton, and leauing Tadlow on the west side (as I remember) it
goeth toward Crawden, Malton, Barrington, Haselingfield, and so into
Granta, taking sundrie rills with him from south and southwest, as
Wendie water southwest of Crawden, Whaddon brooke southwest of Orwell,
Mildred becke southwest of Malton, and finallie the Orme which commeth
out of Armington or Ormendum well, and goeth by Fulmere and Foxton, and
falleth into the same betweene Barrington and Harleston, or Harston; as
they call it.