Rother from Bendish hall: but bicause it is for the most part drie in
summer I passe it ouer. Yet I will not omit to speake also of the manor
which was the chiefe lordship sometime of a parish or hamlet called
Bendishes, now worne out of knowledge, and vnited partlie to Radwinter,
and partlie to Ashdon. It belonged first to the Bendishes gentlemen of a
verie ancient house yet extant, of which one laieng the said manour to
morgage to the moonks of Feuersham, at such time as K. Edward the third
went to the siege of Calis, thereby to furnish himselfe the better toward
the seruice of his prince, it came to passe that he staied longer beyond
the sea than he supposed. Wherevpon he came before his daie to confer
with his creditors, who commending his care to come out of debt, willed
him in friendlie maner not to suspect anie hard dealing on their
behalfes, considering his businesse in seruice of the king was of it
selfe cause sufficient, to excuse his delaie of paiment vpon the daie
assigned. Herevpon he went ouer againe vnto the siege of Calis. But when
the daie came, the moonks for all this made seisure of the manour, and
held it continuallie without anie further recompense, maugre all the
friendship that the aforesaid Bendish could make. The said gentleman
also tooke this cousening part in such choler, that he wrote a note yet
to be séene among his euidences, whereby he admonisheth his posteritie
to beware how they trust either knaue moonke or knaue frier, as one of
the name and descended from him by lineall descent hath more than once
informed me. Now to resume our springs that méet and ioine with our
Pant.
[Sidenote: Froshwell.]
The next is named Froshwell. And of this spring dooth the whole hundred
beare the name, & after this confluence the riuer it selfe whervnto it
falleth (from by north) so farre as I remember. Certes, all these,
sauing the first and second, are within your lordships towne aforesaid.
The streame therefore running from hence (& now, as I said, called
Froshwell, of Frosh, which signifieth a frog) hasteth immediatlie vnto
old Sandford, then through new Sandford parke, and afterward with full
streame (receiuing by the waie, the Finch brooke that commeth thorough
Finchingfield) to Shalford, Bocking, Stifted, Paswijc, and so to
Blackewater, where the name of Froshwell ceaseth, the water being from
hencefoorth (as I heare) commonlie called Blackwater, vntill it come to
Maldon, where it falleth into the salt arme of the sea that beateth vpon
the towne; and which of some (except I be deceiued) is called also Pant:
and so much the rather I make this conjecture, for that Ithancester
stood somewhere vpon the banks thereof, & in the hundred of Danseie,
whose ruines (as they saie) also are swalowed vp by the said streame,
which can not be verified in our riuer that runneth from Pantwell, which
at the mouth and fall into the great current, excéedeth not (to my
coniecture) aboue one hundred foot. But to returne to our Pant, alias
the Gwin. From Blackwater it goeth to Coxall, Easterford, Braxsted and
[Sidenote: Barus.]
Wickham, where it méeteth with the Barus, and so going togither as one,
they descend to Heiebridge, and finallie into the salt water aboue
Maldon, and at hand as is aforesaid. As for the Barus, it riseth in a
statelie parke of Essex called Bardfield, belonging to sir Thomas Wroth
whilest he liued, who hath it to him and his heires males for euer, from
the crowne. Being risen, it hasteth directlie to old Saling Brainetrée,
crossing a rillet by the waie comming from Raine, blacke Norleie, white
Norleie, Falkeburne, Wittham, and falleth into the Blackewater beneath
Braxsted on the south.
[Sidenote: Chelmer.]
Beside this, the said Pant or Gwin receiueth the Chelme or Chelmer,
which ariseth also in Wimbech aforesaid, where it hath two heads: of
which the one is not farre from Brodockes (where master Thomas Wiseman
esquier dwelleth) the other nigh vnto a farme called Highams in the same
paroch, and ioining yer long in one chanell, they hie them toward
Thacsted vnder Prowds bridge, méeting in the waie with a rill comming
from Boiton end, whereby it is somewhat increased. Being past Thacsted,
it goeth by Tilteie, and soone after receiueth one rill which riseth on
[Sidenote: Lindis.]
the north side of Lindsell, & falleth into the Chelmer by northeast at
Tilteie aforesaid, & another c[=o]ming from southwest, rising southeast
from Lindsell at much Eiston. From thence then holding on still with the
course, it goeth to Candfield the more, Dunmow, litle Dunmow, Falsted,
Lies, both Walthams, Springfield, and so to Chelmeresford. Here vpon the
south side I find the issue of a water that riseth fiue miles (or
thereabouts) south and by west of the said towne, from whence it goeth
to Munasing, Buttesburie (there receiuing a rill from by west, to
Ingatstone, Marget Inge, Widford bridge, Writtle bridge, and so to
Chelmeresford (crossing also the second water that descendeth from
[Sidenote: Roxford.]
Roxford southwest of Writtle by the waie) whereof let this suffice.
From hence the Chelmer goeth directlie toward Maldon by Badow, Owting,
Woodham water, Bilie, and so to Blackwater northwest of Maldon,
receiuing neuerthelesse yer it come fullie thither, a becke also that
[Sidenote: Lée.]
goeth from Lée parke, to little Lées, great Lées, Hatfield, Peuerell,
Owting, and so into Blackwater (whereof I spake before) as Maldon
streame dooth a rill from by south ouer against saint Osithes, and also
another by Bradwell. After which the said streame growing also to be
verie great, passeth by the Tolshunts, Tollesbie, and so foorth into the
maine sea neere vnto Marseie: betwéene which fall and the place where
Salute water entreth into the land, Plautus abode the comming of
Claudius sometime into Britaine, when he being hardlie beeset, did send
vnto him for aid and spéedie succour, who also being come did not onelie
rescue his legat, but in like manner wan Colchester, and put it to the
spoile, if it be Camalodunum.
[Sidenote: Burne.]
The Burne riseth somewhere about Ronwell, and thence goeth to Hull
bridge, south Fambridge, Kirkeshot ferrie, and so to Foulnesse. And as
this is the short course of that riuer, so it brancheth, and the south
arme thereof receiueth a water comming from Haukewell, to great
Stanbridge, and beneath Pakesham dooth méet by south with the said arme,
and so finish vp his course, as we doo our voiage also about the coast
of England.
Thus haue I finished the description of such riuers and streames as fall
into the Ocean, according to my purpose, although not in so precise an
order and manner of handling as I might, if information promised had
been accordinglie performed; or others would, if they had taken the like
in hand. But this will I saie of that which is here done, that from the
Solueie by west, which parteth England & Scotland on that side; to the
Twede, which separateth the said kingdoms on the east: if you go
backeward, contrarie to the course of my description, you shall find it
so exact, as beside a verie few by-riuers, you shall not need to vse
anie further aduise for the finding and falles of the aforesaid streames.
For such hath beene my helpe of maister Sackfords cardes, and conference
with other men about these, that I dare pronounce them to be perfect and
exact. Furthermore, this I haue also to remember, that in the courses of
our streames, I regard not so much to name the verie towne or church, as
the limits of the paroch. And therefore if I saie it goeth by such a
towne, I thinke my dutie discharged, if I hit vpon anie part or parcell
of the paroch. This also hath not a little troubled me, I meane the
euill writing of the names of manie townes and villages: of which I haue
noted some one man, in the description of a riuer, to write one towne
two or thrée manner of waies, whereby I was inforced to choose one (at
aduenture most commonlie) that séemed the likeliest to be sound in mine
opinion and iudgement.
Finallie, whereas I minded to set downe an especiall chapter of ports
and créeks, lieng on ech coast of the English part of this Ile; and had
prouided the same in such wise as I iudged most conuenient: it came to
passe, that the greater part of my labour was taken from me by stealth,
and therefore as discouraged to meddle with that argument, I would haue
giuen ouer to set downe anie thing therefore at all: and so much the
rather, for that I sée it may prooue a spurre vnto further mischéefe, as
things come to passe in these daies. Neuerthelesse, because a little
thereof is passed in the beginning of the booke, I will set downe that
parcell thereof which remaineth, leauing the supplie of the rest either
to my selfe hereafter, (if I may come by it) or to some other that can
better performe the same.
OF SUCH PORTS AND CREEKS AS OUR SEAFARING-MEN DOO NOTE FOR THEIR BENEFIT
UPON THE COASTS OF ENGLAND.
CHAP. XVII.
It maie be that I haue in these former chapters omitted sundrie hauens
to be found vpon the shore of England, and some of them serued with
backe waters, through want of sound and sufficient information from such
as haue written vnto me of the same. In recompense whereof I haue
thought good to adde this chapter of ports and creekes, whereby (so
farre as to me is possible) I shall make satisfaction of mine
ouersights. And albeit I cannot (being too too much abused by some that
haue béereft me of my notes in this behalfe) bring my purpose to passe
for all the whole coast of England round about, from Berwike to the
Solue: yet I will not let to set downe so much as by good hap remaineth,
whereby my countriemen shall not altogither want that benefit, hoping in
time to recouer also the rest, if God grant life and good successe
thereto.
[Sidenote: Northumberland.]
In Northumberland therefore we haue Berwike, Holie Iland, Bamborow,
Bedwell, Donstanborow, Cocket Iland, Warkeworth, Newbiggin, Almow,
Blithes nuke, and Tinmouth hauen.
[Sidenote: Durham.]
In the bishoprijc, Sonderland, Stocketon, Hartlepoole, These.
[Sidenote: Yorkeshire.]
In Yorkeshire, Dapnam sands, Steningreene, Staies, Runswike, Robinhoods
baie, Whitbie, Scarborow, Fileie, Flamborow, Bricklington, Horneseie
becke, Sister kirke, Kelseie, Cliffe, Pattenton, Holmes, Kenningham,
Pall, Hidon, Hulbrige, Beuerlie, Hull, Hasell, Northferebie, Bucke
créeke, Blacke cost, Wrethell, Howden.
[Sidenote: Lincolneshire.]
In Lincolneshire, Selbie, Snepe, Turnebrige, Rodiffe, Catebie,
Stockwith, Torkeseie, Gainsborow, Southferebie, Barton a good point,
Barrow a good hauen, Skatermill a good port, Penningham, Stalingborow a
good hauen, Guimsbie a good port, Clie, March chappell, Saltfléete,
Wilgripe, Mapleford, saint Clements, Wenfléete, Friscon, Toft, Skerbike,
Boston, Frompton, Woluerton, Fossedike a good hauen.
[Sidenote: Northfolke.]
In Northfolke, Linne a good hauen, Snatchham, Hitchham, Desingham good,
Thunstone, Thorneham good, Brankester good, Burnham good, with diuers
townes and villages thereto belonging, Welles good, Strikeie, Marston,
Blakeleie towne, Withon Claie, Blakelie hauen good, Salthouse créeke,
Sheringham hith, Roughton, Cromer, Beston, Trinningham, Mounsleie,
Bromwall, Haseborow, Wakesham, Eckelles, Winterton, Custer, Helmesleie,
Okell, Vpton, Waibridge, Yarmouth, good all the waie to Norwich, with
diuerse villages on the riuer side.
[Sidenote: Suffolke.]
In Suffolke, Becles, Bongeie, Southton, Corton, Gorton, Laistow a good
port, Kirtill, Pakefield, Kasseldon, Bliborow, Coffe hith, Eston,
Walderswijc, Donewich, Swold hauen, Sisewell, Thorpe, Alborow, Orford a
good hauen, Balseie good, Felixstow, Colneie, Sproten, Ypswich,
Downambridge good, Pinnemill, Shoteleie, Cataweie, Barfold.
[Sidenote: Essex.]
In Essex we haue Dedham, Maning trée, Thorne, Wrabbesnes, Ramseie,
Harwich, Douercourt, Handford, Okeleie, Kirbie, Thorpe, Brichwill,
Walton mill, Walton hall, Ganfléete, Newhauen good, S. Osithes, Bentleie
good, Bricleseie, Thorlington (where good ships of a hundred tun or more
be made) Alsford, Wiuenhall, Colchester, Cold hith, Rough hedge,
Fingering ho, east Merseie, west Merseie, Salcot, Goldanger, Borow,
Maldon, Stanesgate, Sudmester, S. Peters, Burnham, Crixseie, Aldon,
Clements gréene, Hulbridge, Pacleston, Barling, litle Wakering, much
Wakering, south Sudburie, Wakeringham, Melton, Papper hill, or Lee,
Beamfléete, Pidseie range, Fobbing, Hadleie good, Mucking, Stanford, and
Tilberie ferrie.
[Sidenote: Kent.]
In Kent, Harling, Cliffe, Tanfleete, Stokehow, Snodlond, Melhall,
Maidston, Ailesford, New hith, Rochester, Gelingham, Reinham, Vpchurch,
Halsted, Quinborow, Milton, Feuersham, Whitstaple, Herne, Margate,
Brodestaier, Ramsgate; and manie of these good créekes: also Sandwich,
Douer, Hide, reasonable ports, although none of the best.
[Sidenote: Sussex.]
In Sussex we haue Smalade with the créekes adioining to the same, Ridon,
Appledoure, Rie a good hauen, and Winchelseie nothing at all inferiour
to the same, and so manie shires onelie are left vnto me at this time,
wherefore of force I must abruptlie leaue off to deale anie further with
the rest, whose knowledge I am right sure would haue been profitable:
and for the which I hoped to haue reaped great thankes at the hands of
such sea-faring men, as should haue had vse hereof.
_Desunt cætera._
OF THE AIRE, SOILE, AND COMMODITIES OF THIS ILAND.
CAP. XVIII.
[Sidenote: The aire of Britaine.]
The aire (for the most part) throughout the Iland is such, as by reason
in maner of continuall clouds, is reputed to be grosse, and nothing so
pleasant as that is of the maine. Howbeit, as they which affirme these
things, haue onelie respect to the impediment or hinderance of the sunne
beames, by the interposition of the clouds and oft ingrossed aire: so
experience teacheth vs, that it is no lesse pure, wholesome, and
commodious, than is that of other countries, and (as Cæsar himselfe
hereto addeth) much more temperate in summer than that of the Galles,
from whom he aduentured hither. Neither is there anie thing found in the
aire of our region, that is not vsuallie séene amongst other nations
lieng beyond the seas. Wherefore, we must néeds confesse, that the
situation of our Iland (for benefit of the heauens) is nothing inferiour
to that of anie countrie of the maine, where so euer it lie vnder the
open firmament. And this Plutarch knew full well, who affirmeth a part
of the Elisian fields to be found in Britaine, and the Iles that are
situate about it in the Ocean.
[Sidenote: The soile.]
The soile of Britaine is such, as by the testimonies and reports both of
the old and new writers, and experience also of such as now inhabit the
same, is verie fruitfull; and such in deed as bringeth foorth manie
commodities, whereof other countries haue néed, and yet it selfe (if fond
nicenesse were abolished) néedlesse of those that are dailie brought from
other places. Neuerthelesse it is more inclined to féeding and grasing,
than profitable for tillage, and bearing of corne; by reason whereof the
countrie is wonderfullie replenished with neat, and all kind of cattell:
and such store is there also of the same in euerie place, that the fourth
part of the land is scarselie manured for the prouision and maintenance
of graine. Certes this fruitfulnesse was not vnknowne vnto the Britons
long before Cæsars time, which was the cause wherefore our predecessors
liuing in those daies in maner neglected tillage, and liued by féeding
and grasing onelie. The grasiers themselues also then dwelled in
mooueable villages by companies, whose custome was to diuide the ground
amongst them, and each one not to depart from the place where his lot
[Sidenote: Criacht.]
laie (a thing much like to the Irish Criacht) till by eating vp of the
countrie about him, he was inforced to remooue further, and séeke for
better pasture. And this was the British custome (as I learne) at first.
It hath béene commonlie reported, that the ground of Wales is neither so
fruitfull as that of England, neither the soile of Scotland so
bountifull as that of Wales: which is true, for corne and for the most
part: otherwise, there is so good ground in some parts of Wales, as is
in England, albeit the best of Scotland be scarselie comparable to the
meane of either of both. Howbeit, as the bountie of the Scotish dooth
faile in some respect, so dooth it surmount in other; God and nature
hauing not appointed all countries to yéeld foorth like commodities.
But where our ground is not so good as we would wish, we haue (if néed
be) sufficient help to cherish our ground withall, and to make it more
fruitfull. For beside the compest that is carried out of the husbandmens
yards, ditches, ponds, doouehouses, or cities and great townes: we haue
with vs a kind of white marle, which is of so great force, that if it be
cast ouer a péece of land but once in thrée score years, it shall not
need of anie further compesting. Hereof also dooth Plinie speake, lib.
[Sidenote: Marle.]
17, cap. 6, 7, 8, where he affirmeth that our marle indureth vpon the
earth by the space of fourescore yeares: insomuch that it is laid vpon
the same but once in a mans life, whereby the owner shall not need to
trauell twise in procuring to commend and better his soile. He calleth
it Marga, and making diuerse kinds thereof, he finallie commendeth ours,
and that of France, aboue all other, which lieth sometime a hundred foot
déepe, and farre better than the scattering of chalke vpon the same, as
the Hedni and Pictones did in his time, or as some of our daies also doo
practise: albeit diuerse doo like better to cast on lime, but it will
not so long indure, as I haue heard reported.
[Sidenote: Plentie of riuers.]
There are also in this Iland great plentie of fresh riuers and streams,
as you haue heard alreadie, and these throughlie fraught with all kinds
of delicate fish accustomed to be found in riuers. The whole Ile
[Sidenote: Hilles.]
likewise is verie full of hilles, of which some (though not verie manie)
are of exceeding heigth, and diuerse extending themselues verie far from
the beginning; as we may see by Shooters hill, which rising east of
London, and not farre from the Thames, runneth along the south side of
the Iland westward, vntill it come to Cornewall. Like vnto these also
are the Crowdon hils, which though vnder diuers names (as also the other
from the Peke) doo run into the borders of Scotland. What should I
speake of the Cheuiot hilles, which reach twentie miles in length? of
[Sidenote: (*) Here lacks.]
the blacke mounteines in Wales, which go from (*) to (*) miles at the
least in length? of the Cle hilles in Shropshire, which come within
foure miles of Ludlow, and are diuided from some part of Worcester by
the Teme? of the Grames in Scotland, and of our Chiltren, which are
eightéene miles at the least from one end of them, which reach from
Henlie in Oxfordshire to Dunstable in Bedfordshire, and are verie well
replenished with wood and corne? notwithstanding that the most part
yéeld a sweet short grasse, profitable for shéepe. Wherein albeit they
of Scotland doo somewhat come behind vs, yet their outward defect is
inwardlie recompensed, not onelie with plentie of quarries (and those of
sundrie kinds of marble, hard stone, and fine alabaster) but also rich
mines of mettall, as shall be shewed hereafter.
[Sidenote: Winds.]
In this Iland likewise the winds are commonlie more strong and fierce,
than in anie other places of the maine, which Cardane also espied: and
that is often séene vpon the naked hilles, not garded with trées to
beare and kéepe it off. That grieuous inconuenience also inforceth our
[Sidenote: Building.]
nobilitie, gentrie, and communaltie, to build their houses in the
vallies, leauing the high grounds vnto their corne and cattell, least
the cold and stormie blasts of winter should bréed them greater
annoiance: whereas in other regions each one desireth to set his house
aloft on the hill, not onlie to be seene a farre off, and cast forth his
beames of statelie and curious workemanship into euerie quarter of the
countrie; but also (in hot habitations) for coldnesse sake of the aire,
sith the heat is neuer so vehement on the hill top as in the vallie,
because the reuerberation of the sunne beames either reacheth not so
farre as the highest, or else becommeth not so strong as when it is
reflected upon the lower soile.
[Sidenote: Husbandrie amended.]
But to leaue our buildings vnto the purposed place (which
notwithstanding haue verie much increased, I meane for curiositie and
cost, in England, Wales, and Scotland, within these few yeares) and to
returne to the soile againe. Certeinelie it is euen now in these our
daies growne to be much more fruitfull, than it hath béene in times
past. The cause is for that our countriemen are growne to be more
painefull, skilfull, and carefull through recompense of gaine, than
heretofore they haue béene: insomuch that my Synchroni or time fellows
can reape at this present great commoditie in a little roome; whereas of
late yeares, a great compasse hath yéelded but small profit, and this
onelie through the idle and negligent occupation of such, as dailie
manured and had the same in occupieng. I might set downe examples of
these things out of all the parts of this Iland, that is to saie, manie
of England, more out of Scotland, but most of all out of Wales: in which
two last rehearsed, verie little other food and liuelihood was wont to
be looked for (beside flesh) more than the soile of it selfe, and the
cow gaue; the people in the meane time liuing idelie, dissolutelie, and
by picking and stealing one from another. All which vices are now (for
the most part) relinquished, so that each nation manureth hir owne with
triple commoditie, to that it was before time.
[Sidenote: Pasture.]
The pasture of this Iland is according to the nature and bountie of the
soile, whereby in most places it is plentifull, verie fine, batable, and
such as either fatteth our cattell with speed, or yéeldeth great
abundance of milke and creame: whereof the yellowest butter and finest
chéese are made. But where the blue claie aboundeth (which hardlie
drinketh vp the winters water in long season) there the grasse is
spearie, rough, and verie apt for brushes: by which occasion it commeth
nothing so profitable vnto the owner as the other. The best pasture
ground of all England is in Wales, & of all the pasture in Wales that of
Cardigan is the cheefe. I speake of the same which is to be found in the
mounteines there, where the hundred part of the grasse growing is not
eaten, but suffered to rot on the ground, whereby the soile becommeth
matted, and diuerse bogges and quicke moores made withall in long
continuance: because all the cattell in the countrie are not able to eat
it downe. If it be to be accompted good soile, on which a man may laie a
wand ouer night, and on the morrow find it hidden and ouergrowen with
grasse: it is not hard to find plentie thereof in manie places of this
land. Neuertheless, such is the fruitfulnes of the aforsaid countie that
it farre surmounteth this proportion, whereby it may be compared for
batablenesse with Italie, which in my time is called the paradise of the
world, although by reason of the wickednesse of such as dwell therein it
may be called the sinke and draine of hell: so that whereas they were
woont to saie of vs that our land is good but our people euill, they did
but onlie speake it; whereas we know by experience that the soile of
Italie is a noble soile, but the dwellers therein farre off from anie
vertue or goodnesse.
[Sidenote: Medowes.]
Our medowes, are either bottomes (whereof we haue great store, and those
verie large, bicause our soile is hillie) or else such as we call land
meads, and borowed from the best & fattest pasturages. The first of them
are yearelie & often ouerflowen by the rising of such streames as passe
through the same, or violent falles of land-waters, that descend from
the hils about them. The other are seldome or neuer ouerflowen, and that
is the cause wherefore their grasse is shorter than that of the
bottomes, and yet is it farre more fine, wholesome, and batable, sith
the haie of our low medowes is not onelie full of sandie cinder, which
breedeth sundrie diseases in our cattell, but also more rowtie, foggie,
and full of flags, and therefore not so profitable for stouer and
forrage as the higher meads be. The difference furthermore in their
commodities is great, for whereas in our land meadowes we haue not often
aboue one good load of haie, or peraduenture a little more in an acre of
ground (I vse the word Carrucata or Carruca which is a waine load, and,
as I remember, vsed by Plinie lib. 33. cap. 11.) in low meadowes we haue
sometimes thrée, but commonlie two or vpward, as experience hath oft
confirmed.