two heads: the northerlie being called Dere, and the southerlie the
Guent: and ioining so well yer long in chanell as in name, they runne on
to Humsterworth, new Biggin, Blankeland, Acton, Aspersheles,
Blackheadlie, Brentfield side, Pansheles, Ebchester, and there taking in
a water from Hedleie in Northumberland, néere to Blacke hall in the
bishoprike, it goeth on to Spen, Hollinside, Wickham, Swalwell, and so
into Tine, which passeth from thence by Elswijc, and méeting with
another water comming from Shildraw, by Rauensworth castell to Redhugh,
it goeth on to Newcastell, Fellin, Netherheworth, Walker, Waswon,
Hedburne, and next to Jerro or Girwie, where Beda dwelled in an abbeie;
now a gentlemans place (although the church be made a parish church,
wherevnto diuerse townes resort, as moonke Eaton where Beda was borne,
which is a mile from thence, Southsheles, Harton, Westhow, Hebburne,
Hedworth, Wardleie, Fellin, Follinsbie, the Heworthes) and from thence
to the south and Northsheles, and so into the sea, fiue miles by
northwest of Weremouth, and (as I gesse) somewhat more.
Beneath the confluence in like sort of both the Tines, standeth
Corbridge, a towne sometime inhabited by the Romans, and about twelue
miles from Newcastell, and hereby dooth the Corue run, that meeteth yer
long with the Tine. Not farre off also is a place called Colchester,
wherby Leland gesseth that the name of the brooke should rather be Cole
[Sidenote: Corue.]
than Corue, and in my iudgement his coniecture is verie likelie; for in
the life of S. Oswijn (otherwise a féeble authoritie) the word Colbridge
is alwaies vsed for Corbridge, whereof I thought good to leaue this
short aduertisement. In this countrie also are the thrée vales or dales,
whereof men haue doubted whether théeues or true men doo most abound in
them, that is to saie, Riddesdale, Tuidale, and Liddesdale: this last
being for the most part Scotish, and without the marches of England.
Neuerthelesse, sithens that by the diligence cheefelie of maister
Gilpin, and finallie of other learned preachers, the grace of God
working with them, they haue béene called to some obedience and zeale
vnto the word, it is found that they haue so well profited by the same,
that at this present their former sauage demeanour is verie much abated,
and their barbarous wildnesse and fiercenesse so qualified, that there
is great hope left of their reduction vnto ciuilitie, and better order
of behauiour than hitherto they haue béene acquainted withall. But to
procéed with the rest.
[Sidenote: Were.]
Ptolomie, writing of the Were, calleth it Vedra, a riuer well knowne
vnto Beda the famous préest, who was brought vp in a monasterie that
stood vpon the bankes thereof. It riseth of thrée heads in Kelloppeslaw
[Sidenote: Burdop.]
hill, whereof the most southerlie is called Burdop, the middlemost
[Sidenote: Wallop.]
[Sidenote: Kellop.]
Wallop, and the northerliest Kellop, which vniting themselues about S.
Iohns chappell, or a little by west thereof, their confluence runneth
through Stanhope parke, by east Yare, and so to Frosterleie. But yer it
come there, it receiueth thrée rilles from the north in Weredale,
whereof one commeth in by Stanhope, another west of Woodcroft hall, and
the third at Frosterleie afore mentioned. And a little beneath these, I
find yet a fourth on the south side, which descendeth from southwest by
Bolliop, Bishopsleie, Milhouses, and Landew, as I haue béene informed.
Being therefore vnited all with the Were, this streame goeth on to
[Sidenote: Wascrop.]
Walsingham, there taking in the Wascropburne, beside another at
Bradleie, the third at Harpleie hall (and these on the north side) and
[Sidenote: Bedburne.]
the fourth betwéene Witton and Witton castell called Bedburne, comming
by Hamsterleie, whereby this riuer dooth now wax verie great. Going
therefore from hence, it hasteth to Bishops Akeland, and beneath it
receiueth the Garondlesse, which (as Leland saith) riseth six miles by
west of Akeland castell, and running south thereof, passeth by west
Akeland, S. Helens Akeland, S. Andrewes Akeland, and bishops Akeland,
and then into the Were which goeth to Newfield, and Willington. Neere
vnto this place also and somewhat beneath Sunderland, the Were, crosseth
one brooke from southest by Het, Croxseie, Cronefurth, Tursdale, and
Cordale, and two other from by northwest in one botome, whereof the
first commeth from aboue Ash by Langleie: the other called Coue, from
aboue Kinchleie by Newbiggin, Lanchester, north Langlie, and through
Beare parke, & so méeting beneath Kelleie or Hedleie with the other,
they fall both as one into the Were, betweene south Sunderland and
Burnall. From hence our riuer goeth on to Howghwell, Shirkeleie, old
[Sidenote: Pidding brooke.]
Duresme (and there taking in the Pidding brooke by northeast) it goeth
to Duresme, Finkeleie, Harbarhouse, Lumleie castell (where it méeteth
[Sidenote: Pilis.]
with the Pilis, whose heads are vnited betweene Pelton and Whitwell (and
after called Hedleie) and from thence to Lampton, Harroton, the Bedikes,
Vfferton, Hilton parke, Bishops Weremouth, and so into the sea, betweene
north Sunderland and north Weremouth towne, which now is called moonke
Weremouth of the monasterie sometime standing there, wherin Beda read &
wrote manie of his bookes, as to the world appeareth. This mouth of Were
is eight miles from Durham, and six from Newcastell. Being thus passed
the Were, & entered into the Bishoprijc, yer we come at the mouth of the
These, almost by two miles, ouer passing a rill that runneth by castell
Eden, and Hardwijc, and likewise Hartlepoole towne, which lieth ouer
into the sea in maner of a byland or peninsula, we meet with a prettie
fall, which groweth by a riuer that is increased with two waters,
whereof one riseth by northwest about Moretons, and goeth by Stotfeld
and Claxton, the other at Dawlton, going by Breerton, Owtham, and
Grettam, finallie ioining within two miles of the sea, they make a
prettie portlet: but I know not of what securitie.
[Sidenote: Thesis.]
The These, a riuer that beareth and féedeth an excellent samon, riseth
in the Blacke lowes, aboue two miles flat west of the southerlie head of
Were called Burdop, and south of the head of west Alen, and thence
runneth through Tildale forrest: and taking in the Langdon water from
northwest it runneth to Durtpit chappell, to Newbiggin, and so to
Middleton, receiuing by west of each of these a rill comming from by
[Sidenote: Hude.]
north (of which the last is called Hude) and likewise the Lune afterward
by southwest that riseth at thrée seuerall places, whereof the first is
in the borders of Westmerland and there called Arnegill becke, the
[Sidenote: Lune.]
second more southerlie, named Lunebecke, and the third by south at
[Sidenote: Arnegill.]
Bandor Skarth hill, and méeting all aboue Arnegill house, they run
togither in one bottome to Lathekirke bridge, and then into the These.
Hauing therefore met with these, it runneth to Mickelton (& there taking
[Sidenote: Skirkewith.]
in the Skirkwith water) it goeth to Rombald kirke (crossing there also
[Sidenote: Bander.]
one rill and the Bander brooke by south west) and then going to Morewood
hag, and Morewood parke, till it come to Bernards castell.
[Sidenote: Rere crosse.]
Here also it receiueth the Thuresgill water, comming east of Rere crosse
in Yorkeshire, from the spittle in Stanmore by Crag almost southwest,
and being vnited with the These, it goeth by Stratford, Eglesdon,
Rokesbie, Thorpe, Wickliffe, Ouington, Winston, and betweene Barfurth
and Gainfurth méeteth with another rill, that commeth from Langleie
forest, betwéene Rabie castell and Standorpe, of whose name I haue no
knowledge. But to procéed. The These being past Ramforth, runneth
betwéene Persore and Cliffe, and in the waie to Crofts bridge taketh in
[Sidenote: Skerne.]
the Skerne a pretie water, which riseth about Trimdon, and goeth by
Fishburne, Bradburie, Preston, Braforton, Skirmingham, the Burdens,
Haughton and Darlington, & there finallie meeting with the Cocke becke
or Dare, it falleth in the These beneath Stapleton, before it come at
Crofts bridge, and (as it should séeme) is the same which Leland calleth
Gretteie or Grettie. From thence it runneth to Sockburne, nether
Dunsleie, Middleton row, Newsham, Yarne (crossing a brooke from Leuen
bridge) called Leuen or Leuinus in Latine, whose crinkling course is
notable, and the streame of some called Thorpe, which I find described
in this maner.
[Sidenote: Thorpe aliàs Leuand.]
The Thorpe riseth of sundrie heads, whereof one is aboue Pinching
Thorpe, from whence it goeth to Nonnethorpe, and so to Stokesleie. The
second hath two branches, and so placed, that Kildale standeth betweene
them both: finallie, méeting beneath Easbie they go by Eaton, and
likewise vnto Stokesleie. The last hath also two branches, whereof one
commeth from Inglesbie, and méeteth with the second beneath Broughton; &
going from thence to Stokesleie, they méet with the Thorpe aboue the
towne, as the other fall into it somewhat beneath the same. From hence
it goeth to Ridleie, and there taketh in another rill comming
[Sidenote: Crawthorne.]
from Potto, thence to Crawthorne brooke, Leuanton, Milton, Hilton,
Inglesbie, and so into the These, betwéene Yarne and Barwijc, whereof I
made mention before. After this confluence our These hasteth on to
Barwijc, Preston, Thorne abbeie, and Arsham, which standeth on the
southeast side of the riuer almost betweene the falles of two waters,
whereof one descendeth from west Hartburne by long Newton, Elton, &
Stockton; the other from Stillington, or Shillington, by Whitton,
Thorpe, Blackestone, Billingham, and Norton. From Arsham finallie it
goeth to Bellasis, Middleburgh, and so into the sea. Leland describing
this riuer speaketh of the Wiske, which should come thereinto from by
south vnder Wiske bridge, by Danbie, and Northalarton, and should ioine
with a greater streame: but as yet I find no certeine place where to
bestow the same.
Next of all we come vnto the high Cliffe water, which rising aboue
Hutton, goeth by Gisborow, and there receiueth another streame comming
from by southeast, and then continuing on his course, it is not long yer
it fall into the sea. The next is the Scaling water, which descendeth
from Scaling towne, from whence we come to the Molemouth, not farre from
whose head standeth Molgraue castell: then to Sandford creeke, and next
[Sidenote: Eske.]
of all to Eske mouth, which riseth aboue Danbie wood, and so goeth to
Castelton, there méeting by the waie with another rill comming from
about Westerdale by Danbie, and so they go on togither by Armar and
Thwate castell, till they ioine with another water aboue Glasdule
chappell, thence to new Biggin, taking yet another brooke with them,
[Sidenote: Ibur.]
running from Goodland ward, and likewise the Ibur, and so go on without
anie further increase by Busworth, yer long into the sea.
There is also a créeke on each side of Robin Whoodes baie, of whose
names and courses I haue no skill, sauing that Fillingale the towne
dooth stand betwéene them both. There is another not far from Scarborow,
on the north side called the Harwood brooke. It runneth through Harwood
dale by Cloughton, Buniston, and soone after méeting with another rill
on the southwest, they run as one into the ocean sea. From Scarborow to
Bridlington, by Flamborow head, we met with no more falles. This water
therefore that we saw at Bridlington, riseth at Dugglebie, from whence
it goeth to Kirbie, Helperthorpe, Butterwijc, Boithorpe, Foxhole, (where
it falleth into the ground, and riseth vp againe at Rudston) Thorpe,
Cathorpe, Bridlington, and so into the Ocean.
Being come about the Spurne head, I meete yer long with a riuer that
riseth short of Withersie, and goeth by Fodringham and Wisted, from
thence to another that commeth by Rosse, Halsham, Carmingham: then to
the third, which riseth aboue Humbleton, and goeth to Esterwijc, Heddon,
and so into the Humber. The fourth springeth short of Sprotleie, goeth
by Witton, and falleth into the water of Humber at Merflete, as I heare.
[Sidenote: Hull.]
The next of all is the Hull water, which I will describe also here, and
then crosse ouer vnto the southerlie shore. The furthest head of Hull
water riseth at Kilham, from whence it goeth to Lewthorpe créeke, and so
to Fodringham, a little beneath which it meeteth with sundrie waters,
whereof one falleth in on the northest side, comming from about Lisset;
the second on the northwest banke from Nafferton; the third from
Emmeswell and Kirkeburne: for it hath two heads which ioined beneth
little Drifield, and the fourth which falleth into the same: so that
these two latter run vnto the maine riuer both in one chanell, as
experience hath confirmed. From hence then our Hull goeth to Ratseie, to
Goodalehouse, and then taking in a water from Hornesie mere, it goeth on
through Beuerleie medowes, by Warron, Stoneferrie, Hull, and finallie
into the Humber. Of the rill that falleth into this water from south
Netherwijc, by Skirlow, and the two rilles that come from Cottingham and
Woluerton, I saie no more, sith it is enough to name them in their
order.
THE DESCRIPTION OF THE HUMBER OR ISIS, AND SUCH WATER-COURSES AS DOO
INCREASE HIR CHANELL.
CHAP. XV.
[Sidenote: Humber.]
There is no riuer called Humber from the hed. Wherfore that which we now
call Humber, Ptolomie Abie, Leland Aber, as he gesseth, hath the same
denomination no higher than the confluence of Trent with the Ouze, as
beside Leland sundrie ancient writers haue noted before vs both. Certes
it is a noble arme of the sea, and although it be properlie to be called
Ouze or Ocellus euen to the Nuke beneath Ancolme, yet are we contented
to call it Humber of Humbrus or Vmar, a king of the Scithians, who
inuaded this Ile in the time of Locrinus, thinking to make himselfe
monarch of the same. But as God hath from time to time singularlie
prouided for the benefit of Britaine, so in this businesse it came to
passe, that Humber was put to flight, his men slaine: and furthermore,
whilest he attempted to saue himselfe by hasting to his ships (such was
the prease of his nobilitie that followed him into his owne vessell, and
the rage of weather which hastened on his fatall daie) that both he and
they were drowned togither in that arme. And this is the onelie cause
wherefore it hath béene called Humber, as our writers saie; and wherof I
find these verses:
Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic,
Déque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquæ.
This riuer in old time parted Lhoegres or England from Albania, which
was the portion of Albanactus, the yongest sonne of Brute. But since
that time the limits of Lhoegres haue béene so inlarged, first by the
prowesse of the Romans, then by the conquests of the English, that at
this present daie, the Twede on the one side, & the Solue on the other,
be taken for the principall bounds betweene vs and those of Scotland. In
describing therefore the Humber, I must néeds begin with the Ouze, whose
water bringeth foorth a verie sweet, fat and delicat samon, as I haue
béene informed, beside sundrie other kinds of fish, which we want here
on the south and southwest coasts & riuers of our land, whereof I may
take occasion to speake more at large heerafter.
[Sidenote: Vre aliàs Ouze, or Isis.]
The Vre therfore riseth in the furthest parts of all Richmondshire,
among the Coterine hilles, in a mosse, toward the west fourtéene miles
beyond Midleham. Being therefore issued out of the ground, it goeth to
Holbecke, Hardraw, Hawshouse, Butterside, Askebridge (which Leland
calleth the Askaran, and saith thereof and the Bainham, that they are
but obscure bridges) then to Askarth, through Wanlesse parke, Wenseleie
bridge (made two hundred yeares since, by Alwin, parson of Winslaw) New
parke, Spennithorne, Danbie, Geruise abbeie, Clifton and Masham. When it
[Sidenote: Burne.]
is come to Masham, it receiueth the Burne, by south west (as it did the
[Sidenote: Wile.]
Wile, from verie déepe scarrie rockes, before at Askaran) and diuerse
other wild rilles not worthie to be remembred. From Masham, it hasteth
vnto Tanfield (taking in by the waie a rill by southwest) then to
another Tanfield, to Newton hall, and Northbridge, at the hither end of
Rippon, and so to Huickes bridge. But yer it come there it méeteth with
[Sidenote: Skell.]
the Skell, which being incorporat with the same, they run as one to
Thorpe, then to Alborow, and soone after receiue the Swale.
[Sidenote: Swale.]
Here (saith Leland) I am brought into no little streict, what to
coniecture of the méeting of Isis and Vre, for some saie that the Isis
and the Vre doo méet at Borowbridge, which to me dooth séeme to be verie
vnlikelie, sith Isurium taketh his denomination of Isis and Vro, for it
is often séene that the lesse riuers doo mingle their names with the
greater, as in the Thamesis and other is easie to be found. Neither is
there any more mention of the Vre after his passage vnder Borowbridge,
but onelie of Isis or the Ouze in these daies, although in old time it
held vnto Yorke it selfe, which of the Vre is truelie called Vrewijc (or
Yorke short) or else my persuasion dooth faile me. I haue red also
Ewerwijc and Yorwijc. But to procéed, and leaue this superfluous
discourse.
From Borowbridge, the Ouze goeth to Aldborough, and (receiuing the Swale
by the waie) to Aldworke, taking in Vsburne water, from the southwest,
then to Linton vpon Ouze, to Newton vpon Ouze, and to Munketun, méeting
with the Nid yer long, and so going withall to the Redhouses, to
[Sidenote: Fosse.]
Popleton, Clifton, Yorke (where it crosseth the Fosse) to Foulfoorth,
Middlethorpe, Acaster, & Acaster, Kelfléet, Welehall, Barelebie, Selbie,
Turmonhall, Skurthall, Hokelath, Hoke, Sandhall, Rednesse, Whitegift,
Vslet, Blacketoft, Foxfléet, Brownfléet, and so into Humber.
[Sidenote: Ouze.]
The course of the Ouze being thus described, and as it were simplie
without his influences, now will I touch such riuers as fall into the
same also by themselues, contrarie to my former proceeding, imagining a
voiage from the Rauenspurne, vntill I come néere to the head of These, &
so southwards about againe by the bottome of the hillie soile vntill I
get to Buxston, Sheffeld, Scrobie, & the verie south point of Humber
mouth, whereby I shall crosse them all that are to be found in this
walke, & leaue (I doubt) some especiall notice of their seuerall heads
[Sidenote: Hull or Hulne.]
and courses. The course of the Hull, a streame abounding with sturgeon
and lampreie, as also the riuers which haue their issue into the same,
being (as I say) alreadie described, I thinke it not amisse, as by the
waie to set downe what Leland saith thereof, to the end that his trauell
shall not altogither be lost in this behalfe; and for that it is short,
and hath one or two things worthie to be remembred conteined in the
same.
The Hulne (saith he) riseth of thrée seuerall heads, whereof the
greatest is not far from Driefield, now a small village sixtéene miles
from Hull. Certes it hath beene a goodlie towne, and therein was the
palace of Egbright king of the Northumbers, and place of sepulture of
Alfred the noble king sometime of that nation, who died there 727, the
ninetéene Cal. of Julie, the twentith of his reigne, and whose toombe or
monument dooth yet remaine (for ought that I doo know to the contrarie)
with an inscription vpon the same written in Latine letters. Néere vnto
this towne also is the Danefield, wherein great numbers of Danes were
slaine, and buried in those hils, which yet remaine there to be séene
ouer their bones and carcasses. The second head (saith he) is at
Estburne, and the third at Emmeswell, and méeting all togither not farre
from Drifield, the water there beginneth to be called Hulne, as I haue
said alreadie.
From hence also it goeth through Beuerleie medowes, and comming at the
last not farre from an arme led from the Hulne by mans hand (and able to
beare great vessels) almost to Beuerleie towne, which in old time either
hight or stood in Deirwald, vntill John of Beuerleie (whom Leland nameth
out of an old author to be the first doctor or teacher of diuinitie that
euer was in Oxford, and (as it should séeme also by an ancient monument
yet remaining) to be of an hostell where the vniuersitie college now
standeth; & therfore they write him, Somtime fellow of that house) began
to be of fame, of whom it is called Beuerleie (as some affirme) to this
daie. Indéed all the countrie betwéene the Deirwent & the Humber was
sometime called Deira, and the lower part Caua Deira in respect of the
higher soile, but now it is named the east Riding. But what is this to
my purpose? The Hulne therefore being come almost to Beuerleie towne, &
[Sidenote: Cottingham.]
méeting thereabout also with the Cottingham becke comming from Westwood
by the waie, it hasteth to Kingston vpon Hulne or Hull, and so into the
Humber without anie maner impeachment.
[Sidenote: Fowlneie.]
The Fowlneie riseth about Godmanham, from whence it goeth by Wighton,
Hareswell, Seton, Williams bridge, and soone after spreading it selfe,
[Sidenote: Skelfléet.]
one arme called Skelfleet goeth by Cane Cawseie to Brownefléet and so
into the Ouze. The other passeth by Sandholme, Gilberts dike, Scalbie
chappell, Blacketoft, and so into the aforesaid Ouze, leauing a verie
pretie Iland, which is a parcell (as I heare) of Walding fen more,
though otherwise obscure to vs that dwell here in the south.
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
The Darwent riseth in the hilles that lie west of Robin Whoodes baie, or
two miles aboue Aiton bridge, west from Scarborow as Leland saith: and
yer it hath run farre from the head, it receiueth two rilles in one
bottome from by west, which ioine withall about Longdale end. Thence
they go togither to Broxeie, and at Hacknesse take in another water
comming from about Silseie. Afterward it commeth to Aiton, then to
[Sidenote: Kenford.]
Haibridge, and there crosseth the Kenford that descendeth from
Roberteston. After this also it goeth on to Potersbrumton where it
taketh in one rill, as it dooth another beneath running from Shirburne,
and the third yet lower on the further banke, that descendeth from
Brumton. From these confluences it runneth to Fowlbridge, Axbridge,
Yeldingham bridge, & so to Cotehouse, receiuing by the waie manie
waters, & yéelding great plentie of delicate samons to such as fish vpon
the same. Leland reckoning vp the names of the seuerall brookes,
numbreth them confusedlie after his accustomed order. The Darwent (saith
[Sidenote: Shirihutton.]
he) receiueth diuerse streames, as the Shirihutton. The second is the
[Sidenote: Crambecke.]
Crambecke, descending from Hunderskell castell (so called Tanquam à
centum fontibus, or multitude of springs that rise about the same) and
[Sidenote: Rie.]
goeth to Rie, which comming out of the Blackemore, passeth by Riuers
[Sidenote: Ricoll.]
[Sidenote: Seuen.]
abbeie, taking in the Ricoll on the left hand, then the Seuen, the
[Sidenote: Costeie.]
[Sidenote: Pickering.]
Costeie, and Pickering brooke.
The Seuin also (saith he) riseth in the side of Blackemoore, and thence
goeth by Sinnington foure miles from Pickering, and about a mile aboue a
certeine bridge ouer Rie goeth into the streame. The Costeie in like
sort springeth in the verie edge of Pickering towne, at a place called
Keld head, and goeth into the Rie two miles beneath Pickering, about
Kirbie minster. Finallie, Pickering water ariseth in Blackemoore, and
halfe a mile beneath Pickering falleth into Costeie, meeting by the way
[Sidenote: Pocklington.]
with the Pocklington becke, and an other small rill or two, of whose
names I haue no knowledge. Hitherto Leland. But in mine opinion, it had
béene far better to haue described them thus. Of those waters that fall
into the Darwent beneath Cotehouse, the first commeth from Swenton, the
second from Ebberston, the third from Ollerston, the fourth from
Thorneton & Pickering, and the fift on the other side that commeth
thither from Wintringham. For so should he haue dealt in better order,
and rid his hands of them with more expedition, referring the rest also
vnto their proper places.