The Eden, after it hath run a pretie space from his head, méeteth in
time with the Vlse water, which is a great brooke in Westmerland, and
[Sidenote: Loder.]
rising aboue Maredale, a mile west of Loder, it commeth by the late
dissolued house of Shappe priorie, thrée miles from Shappe, and by
Brampton village into Loder or Lodon. Certes this streame within halfe a
mile of the head, becommeth a great lake for two miles course, and
afterward waxing narrow againe, it runneth foorth in a meane and
[Sidenote: Aimote.]
indifferent bottome. The said Eden in like sort receiueth the Aimote
about thrée miles beneath Brougham castell, and into the same Aimote
[Sidenote: Dacor.]
falleth Dacor becke (alreadie touched) which riseth by northwest in
Materdale hils, foure miles aboue Dacor castell, and then going through
Dacor parke, it runneth by east a good mile lower into Eimote, a little
beneath Delamaine, which standeth on the left side of Dacor. In one of
his bookes also he saith, how Carleill standeth betwéene two streames,
[Sidenote: Deua.]
that is to saie the Deua, which commeth thither from by southwest, and
also the Logus that descendeth from the southeast. He addeth moreouer
[Sidenote: Vala.]
how the Deua in times past was named Vala or Bala, and that of the names
of these two, Lugibala for Caerleill hath beene deriued, &c. And thus
much out of Leland. But where he had the cause of this his coniecture as
yet I haue not read. Of this am I certeine, that I vse the names of most
riuers here and else-where described, accordinglie as they are called in
my time, although I omit not to speake here and there of such as are
more ancient, where iust occasion mooueth me to remember them, for the
better vnderstanding of our histories, as they doo come to hand.
[Sidenote: Leuen.]
Blacke Leuen and white Leuen waters, fall into the sea in one chanell,
[Sidenote: Lamford.]
[Sidenote: Eske.]
and with them the Lamford and the Eske, the last confluence being not a
full mile from the maine sea. The white and blacke Leuen ioining
[Sidenote: Tomunt.]
therfore aboue Bucknesse, the confluence goeth to Bracken hill,
Kirkleuenton, and at Tomunt water meeteth with the Eske. In like sort
[Sidenote: Kirsop.]
[Sidenote: Lidde.]
the Kirsop ioining with the Lidde out of Scotland at Kirsop foot,
running by Stangerdike side, Harlow, Hathwater, and taking in the Eske
aboue the Mote, it looseth the former name, and is called Eske, vntill
it come to the sea.
Hauing thus gone thorough the riuers of England, now it resteth that we
procéed with those which are to be found vpon the Scotish shore, in such
order as we best may, vntill we haue fetched a compasse about the same,
and come vnto Barwike, whence afterward it shall be easie for vs to make
repaire vnto the Thames, from which we did set forward in the
beginning of our voiage. The first riuer that I met withall on the
[Sidenote: Eske.]
Scotish coast, is the Eske, after I came past the Solueie, which hath
his head in the Cheuiot hilles, runneth by Kirkinton, and falleth into
the sea at Borow on the sands. This Eske hauing receiued the Ewis
falleth into the Solueie first at Atterith. After this I passed ouer a
little créeke from Kirthell, and so to Anand, whereof the vallie
Anandale dooth séeme to take the name. There is also the Nide, whereof
commeth Nidsdale, the Ken, the Dée, the Crale, and the Bladnecke, and
all these (besides diuerse other small rilles of lesse name) doo lie
vpon the south of Gallowaie.
On the north side also we haue the Ruan, the Arde, the Cassile Dune, the
Burwin, the Cluide (wherevpon sometime stood the famous citie of
Alcluide, and whereinto runneth the Carath) the Hamell, the Dourglesse,
and the Lame. From hence in like maner we came vnto the Leuind mouth,
wherevnto the Blake on the southwest and the Lomund Lake, with his
fléeting Iles and fish without finnes (yet verie holesome) dooth séeme
to make his issue. This lake of Lomund in calme weather ariseth
sometimes so high, and swelleth with such terrible billowes, that it
causeth the best marriners of Scotland to abide the leisure of this
water, before they dare aduenture to hoise vp sailes on hie. The like is
seene in windie weather, but much more perillous. There are certeine
Iles also in the same, which mooue and remooue, oftentimes by force of
the water, but one of them especiallie, which otherwise is verie
fruitfull for pasturage of cattell.
[Sidenote: Leue. Long.]
[Sidenote: Goile. Heke.]
[Sidenote: Robinseie.]
[Sidenote: Forelan. Tarbat.]
[Sidenote: Lean.]
[Sidenote: Abir. Arke.]
[Sidenote: Zefe. Sell.]
[Sidenote: Zord. Owin.]
[Sidenote: Nowisse. Orne.]
[Sidenote: Lang. Drun.]
[Sidenote: Hew. Brun.]
[Sidenote: Kile. Dowr.]
[Sidenote: Faro. Nesse.]
Next vnto this is the Leue, the Rage, the Long, the Goile, & the Heke,
which for the excéeding greatnesse of their heads, are called lakes.
Then haue we the Robinseie, the Foreland, the Tarbat, the Lean, and the
Abir, wherevnto the Spanseie, the Loine, the Louth, the Arke, and the
Zefe doo fall, there is also the Sell, the Zord, the Owin, the Newisse,
the Orne, the Lang, the Drun, the Hew, the Brun, the Kell, the Dowr, the
Faro, the Nesse, the Herre, the Con, the Glasse, the Maur, the Vrdall,
the Fers (that commeth out of the Caldell) the Fairsoke, which two latter
lie a little by west of the Orchades, and are properlie called riuers,
bicause they issue onelie from springs; but most of the other lakes,
bicause they come from linnes and huge pooles, or such low bottomes,
[Sidenote: Herre. Con.]
[Sidenote: Glasse. Maur.]
[Sidenote: Vrdall. Fesse.]
[Sidenote: Calder. Wifle.]
[Sidenote: Browre. Clin.]
[Sidenote: Twin. Shin.]
[Sidenote: Sillan. Carew.]
[Sidenote: Nesse. Narding.]
[Sidenote: Spaie. Downe.]
[Sidenote: Dée. Eske.]
fed with springs, as séeme to haue no accesse, but onelie recesse of
waters, whereof there be manie in Scotland.
But to proceed. Hauing once past Dungisbie head in Cathnesse, we shall
yer long come to the mouth of the Wifle, a prettie streame, comming by
south of the mounteins called the Maidens pappes. Then to the Browre,
the Clin, the Twin (whereinto runneth three riuers, the Shin, the
Sillan, and Carew) the Nesse, which beside the plentie of samon found
therein is neuer frosen, nor suffereth yee to remaine there, that is
cast into the poole. From thence we come vnto the Narding, the Finderne,
the Spaie (which receiues the Vine) the Fitch, the Bulich, the Arrian,
the Leuin, and the Bogh, from whence we saile vntill we come about the
Buquhan head, and so to the Downe, and Dee: which two streames bring
forth the greatest samons that are to be had in Scotland, and most
plentie of the same. Then to the north Eske, whereinto the Esmond
runneth aboue Brechin, the south Eske, then the Louen and the Taw, which
is the finest riuer for water that is in all Scotland, and wherevnto
most riuers and lakes doo run. As Farlake, Yrth, Goure, Loich, Cannach,
Linell, Loion, Irewer, Erne, and diuerse other besides small rillets
which I did neuer looke vpon.
Then is there the lake Londors, vpon whose mouth saint Andrewes dooth
stand, the lake Lewin vnto whose streame two other lakes haue recourse
in Fifland, and then the Firth or Fortha, which some doo call the
Pictish and Scotish sea, whither the kingdome of the Northumbers was
sometime extended, and with the riuer last mentioned (I meane that
commeth from Londors) includeth all Fife, the said Fortha being full of
oisters and all kinds of huge fish that vse to lie in the déepe. How
manie waters run into the Firth, called by Ptolomie Lora, it is not in
my power iustlie to declare: yet are there both riuers, rills, & lakes
[Sidenote: Clacke. Alon.]
[Sidenote: Dune. Kerie.]
[Sidenote: Cambell.]
[Sidenote: Cumer. Tere.]
[Sidenote: Man.]
[Sidenote: Torkesan.]
[Sidenote: Rosham.]
[Sidenote: Mushell. Blene.]
[Sidenote: Twede.]
that fall into the same, as Clacke, Alon, Dune, Kerie, Cambell, Cumer,
Tere, Man, Torkeson, Rosham, Mushell, Blene, and diuerse other which I
call by these names, partlie after information, and partlie of such
townes as are neere vnto their heads. Finallie, when we are past the
Haie, then are we come vnto the Twede, whereinto we entred, leauing
Barwike on the right hand and his appurtenances, wherein Halidon hill
standeth, and conteineth a triangle of so much ground beyond the said
riuer, as is well néere foure miles in length, and thrée miles in bredth
in the broad end: except mine information doo faile me.
The Twede (which Ptolomie nameth Toualsis or Toesis, & betwéene which
and the Tine the countie of Northumberland is in maner inclosed, and
watred with sundrie noble riuers) is a noble streame and the limes or
bound betwéene England & Scotland, wherby those two kingdomes are now
diuided in sunder. It riseth about Drimlar in Eusbale (or rather out of
a faire well (as Leland saith) standing in the mosse of an hill called
Airstane, or Harestan in Twede dale ten miles from Pibble) and so
comming by Pibble, Lander, Dribiwgh, Lelse, Warke, Norham and
Hagarstone, it falleth into the sea beneath Barwike, as I heare. Thus
saith Leland. But I not contented with this so short a discourse of so
long a riuer & briefe description of so faire a streame, will ad
somewhat more of the same concerning his race on the English side, and
rehearsall of such riuers as fall into it. Comming therefore to Ridam,
it receiueth betwéene that and Carham a becke, which descendeth from the
hilles that lie by west of Windram. Going also from Ridam by
Longbridgham (on the Scotish side) and to Carham, it hasteth immediatlie
to Warke castell on the English, and by Spilaw on the other side, then
to Cornewall, Cald streame, and Tilmouth, where it receiueth sundrie
waters in one botome which is called the Till, and whose description
insueth here at hand.
[Sidenote: Till.]
Certes there is no head of anie riuer that is named Till, but the issue
of the furthest water that commeth hereinto, riseth not farre from the
head of Vswaie in the Cheuiot hilles, where it is called Brennich,
whereof the kingdome of Brennicia did sometime take the name. From
thence it goeth to Hartside, Ingram, Branton, Crawleie, Hedgeleie,
Beueleie, and Bewijc, beneath which it receiueth one water comming from
Rodham by west, and soone after a second descending from the Middletons,
[Sidenote: Bromis.]
and so they go as one with the Bromish, by Chatton to Fowbreie (where
they crosse the third water falling downe by north from Howborne by
Heselbridge) thence to Woller, there also taking in a rill that riseth
about Middleton hall, and runneth by Hardleie, Whereleie, and the rest
afore remembred, wherby the water of Bromis is not a little increased,
and after this latter confluence beneath Woller, no more called Bromis
but the Till, vntill it come at the Twede. The Till passing therefore by
Weteland and Dedington, méeteth soone after with a faire streame comming
[Sidenote: Bowbent.]
from by southwest, which most men call the Bowbent or Bobent.
It riseth on the west side of the Cocklaw hill, and from thence hasteth
to Hattons, beneath the which it ioineth from by southeast with the
Hellerborne, and then goeth to Pudston, Downeham, Kilham, and a little
by north of Newton Kirke, and betweene it and west Newton, it taketh in
another water called Glin, comming from the Cheuiot hilles by Heth
poole, and from thenseforth runneth on without anie further increase, by
Copland Euart, and so in the Till. The Till for his part in like sort
after this confluence goeth to Broneridge, Fodcastell, Eatall castell,
Heaton, & north of Tilmouth into the Twede, or by west of Wesell, except
my memorie dooth faile me. After this also our aforesaid water of Twede
descendeth to Grotehugh, the Newbiggins, Norham castell, Foord,
[Sidenote: Whitaker.]
Lungridge, & crossing the Whitaker on the other side from Scotland
beneath Cawmill, it runneth to Ordo, to Barwike, and so into the Ocean,
leauing (as I said) so much English ground on the northwest ripe, as
lieth in manner of a triangle betwéene Cawmils, Barwike, and Lammeton,
which (as one noteth) is no more but two miles and an halfe euerie waie,
or not much more; except he be deceiued.
Being past this noble streame, we came by a rill that descendeth from
Bowsden by Barington. Then by the second which ariseth betwéene
Middleton and Detcham or Dereham, and runneth by Eskill and the Rosse,
next of all to Warnemouth, of whose backe water I read as followeth. The
[Sidenote: Warne.]
Warne or Gwerne riseth southwest of Crokelaw, and going by Warneford,
Bradford, Spindlestone, and Budill, it leaueth Newton on the right hand,
and so falleth into the Ocean, after it hath run almost nine miles from
the head within the land, and receiued a rill beneath Yessington, which
commeth downe betweene Newland and Olchester, and hath a bridge beneath
the confluence, which leadeth ouer the same. From Warnemouth we sailed
by Bamborow castell, and came at last to a fall betweene Bedwell and
Newton. The maine water that serueth this issue, riseth aboue Carleton
from the foot of an hill, which séemeth to part the head of this and
that of Warne in sunder. It runneth also by Carleton, Tonleie, Doxford,
Brunton, and Tuggell, and finallie into the sea, as to his course
apperteineth.
[Sidenote: Aile, or Alne,
aliàs Chalne.]
From this water we went by Dunstanbugh castell, vnto the Chalne or
Alnemouth, which is serued with a pretie riueret called Alne, the head
whereof riseth in the hils west of Alnham towne, and called by Ptolomie,
Celnius. From thense also it runneth by Rile, Kile, Eslington, and
Whittingham, where it crosseth a rill comming from by south, and beneath
the same, the second that descendeth from Eirchild at Brone, & likewise
the third that riseth at Newton, and runneth by Edlingham castell and
Lemmaton (all on the southeast side or right hand) and so passeth on
further, till it meet with the fourth, comming from aboue Shipleie from
by north, after which confluence it goeth to Alnewijc, & then to
Dennijc, receiuing there a rillet from by south and a rill from by
north, and thence going on to Bilton, betweene Ailmouth towne and
Wooddon, it sweepeth into the Ocean.
[Sidenote: Cocket.]
The Cocket is a goodlie riuer, the head also thereof is in the roots of
Kemblespeth hils, from whence it goeth to Whiteside, and there meeting
[Sidenote: Vswaie.]
with the Vswaie (which descendeth from the north) it goeth a little
[Sidenote: Ridleie.]
further to Linbridge, and there receiueth the Ridleie by southwest, and
after that with another, called (as I thinke) the Hoc, which commeth
from the Woodland and hillie soile by Allington, & falleth into the
same, west of Parke head. It ioineth also yer long with the Ridland,
which commeth in north by Bilstone, and then hieth to Sharpton, to
[Sidenote: Yardop.]
Harbotle, where it crosseth the Yardop water by south, then to
Woodhouse, and swallowing in a little becke by the waie from southwest,
to Bickerton, to Tossons, Newton, and running apace toward Whitton
towre, it taketh a brooke withall that commeth in northwest of Alnham,
néere Elihaw, and goeth by Skarnewood, ouer nether Trewhet, Snitter, and
Throxton, and soone after vniteth it selfe with the Cocket, from whence
[Sidenote: It may be Leland mistaketh
Tickington water for one of these.]
they go together to Rethburie, or Whitton towre, to Halie, to
Brinkehorne, Welden, taking withall soone after the Tod or burne called
Tod, which falleth in from by south, then to Elihaw, Felton (receiuing
thereabout the Fareslie brooke, that goeth by Wintring by south east,
and Sheldike water, that goeth by Hason, to Brainsaugh by north) and
from thence to Morricke, Warkworth castell, and so into the sea.
There is furthermore a little fall, betwéene Hawkeslaw and Drurith,
which riseth about Stokes wood, goeth by east Cheuington, and
[Sidenote: Lune.]
Whittington castell, and afterward into the Ocean. The Lune is a pretie
brooke rising west of Espleie, from whence it goeth to Tritlington,
[Sidenote: Wansbecke.]
Vgham, Linton, and yer long in the sea. Wansbecke (in old time Diua) is
far greater than the Lune. It issueth vp west and by north of west
Whelpington, thence it runneth to Kirke Whelpington, Wallington,
Middleton, and Angerton. Heere it méeteth with a water running from
about Farnelaw by the grange, and Hartburne on the north, and then going
from Angerton, it runneth by Moseden to Mitforth, and there in like
[Sidenote: Font.]
maner crosseth the Font, which issuing out of the ground about
Newbiggin, goeth by Nonneie Kirke, Witton castell, Stanton, Nunriding,
Newton, and so into the Wansbecke, which runneth in like maner from
Mitford to Morpheth castell (within two miles whereof it ebbeth and
floweth) the new Chappell, Bottle castell, Shepwash, and so into the
sea, thrée miles from the next hauen which is called Blithe.
[Sidenote: Blithe.]
Blithe water riseth about kirke Heaton, and goeth by Belfe, Ogle, and
(receiuing the Port aliàs the Brocket, that springeth east of S.
Oswolds) passeth by Portgate, Whittington, Fennike hall, Madfennes,
Hawkewell, the Grange, & Dissingtons. After it hath taken in the Pont
[Sidenote: Hartleie.]
from the east (whose head is not farre from that of Hartleie streame)
and is past Barwijc on the hill, it runneth by Harford, Bedlington,
Cowpon, and at Blithes nuke, into the deepe Ocean. Hartleie streamelet
riseth in Wéeteslade parioch, goeth by Haliwell, and at Hartleie towne
yeeldeth to the sea.
The Tine or Tinna, a riuer notablie stored with samon, and other good
fish, and in old time called Alan, riseth of two heads, whereof that
[Sidenote: North Tine.]
called north Tine, is the first that followeth to be described. It
springeth vp aboue Belkirke in the hils, & thence goeth to Butterhawgh
[Sidenote: Shele.]
(where it receiueth a confluence of Kirsop and the Shele) thence to
Cragsheles, Leapelish (receiuing on the south a rill out of Tindale)
then to Shilburne, against which it taketh in a becke that commeth out
of Tindale called Shill, also two other on the same side, betweene Yarro
and Fawston hall, and the third at Thorneburne, and so goeth on to
Grenested, and there carrieth withall a fall, from by north also made by
the confluence of one rill comming by Thecam, and another that passeth
by Holinhead, and likewise another on the south comming from Tindale, by
Chuden, Dalacastell, and Brokes: after which our north Tine goeth by
Hellaside, to Billingham, and at Rhedes mouth méeteth with the Ridde, a
verie prettie water, whose description is giuen me after this maner.
[Sidenote: Ridde.]
The Ridde therefore riseth within thrée miles of the Scotish march, as
Leland saith, & commeth through Riddesdale, wherevnto it giueth the
name. Another writeth how it riseth in the roots of the Carter, and
Redsquibe hilles, and yer it hath gone farre from the head, beside a few
[Sidenote: Shelhop.]
little rilles it taketh in the Spelhop or Petop from the north and the
[Sidenote: Cheslop.]
Cheslop on the south, beside sundrie other wild rils nameless and
obscure, as one on the north side next vnto the Petop or Spelhop;
another by south out of Riddesdale, the third west of Burdop, the fourth
runneth by Wullaw to Rochester, then two from southwest, another from by
north which goeth by Durtburne, and is called Durt or Durth, then the
Smalburne from the west. Next to the same is the Otter or Otterburne on
the north side also the Ouereie, and finallie the last which descendeth
from Ellesdon hilles, by Munkrige and ioineth with our Ridde, northwest
of Nudhowgh, after which the said Ridde goeth by Woodburne, Risingham,
Leame, and so into the Tine, a mile lower than Belingham or Bilingham,
which standeth somewhat aloofe from north Tine and is (as I take it) ten
miles at the least aboue the towne of Hexham. After this confluence it
[Sidenote: 3. Burnes.]
[Sidenote: Shitlington.]
passeth to Léehall, to Carehouse (crossing Shitlington becke by west
which also receiueth the Yare on the south side of Shitlington) another
also beneath this on the same side, made by the confluence of
Workesburne, and Middleburne, at Roseburne, beside the third called
Morleis or Morelée aboue, and Simons burne beneath Shepechase, and
likewise the Swine from by north that runneth by Swinburne castell, next
of all the Riall from the northeast, which commeth by Erington, & so
holding his course directlie southwards, it goeth by S. Oswolds through
the Pictishwall, to Wall, and so into south Tine, beneath Accam, and
northwest (as I doo wéene) of Hexham.
[Sidenote: Tine. S.]
The south Tine ariseth in the Cheuiot hils, and yer it hath gone farre
[Sidenote: Esgill.]
from the head, it méeteth with Esgill on the east, and another rill on
the west, and so going by the houses toward Awsten moore, it ioineth
[Sidenote: Vent.]
with Schud from by west, and soone after with the Vent from by east
aboue Lowbier. From Lowbier it goeth to Whitehalton, to Kirke Haugh
[Sidenote: Gilders beck.]
(crossing the Gilders becke on the one side, and the Alne on the other)
to Thornehope, where it is inlarged with a water on each side, to
[Sidenote: Knare.]
Williamstone, and almost at Knaresdale, taketh in the Knare, and then
runneth withall to Fetherstone angle. At Fetherstone angle likewise it
méeteth with Hartleie water, by southwest comming from Sibins or
Sibbenes, another a little beneath from southeast, and thence when it
commeth to Billester castell, it carieth another withall from by west,
Thirlewall called Rippall which riseth in the forrest of Lowes, and
goeth by the Waltowne, Blinkinsop, & Widon, and after which confluence
it taketh in another from by north rising west of Swinsheld, which goeth
by Grenelegh to Haltwestell: thence going by Vnthanke, it crosseth
another rill from by south, descending from the hilles that lie north of
Todlewood, and then proceeding vnto Wilmotteswijc, it admitteth the
Wilmots becke from the south, and another running by Bradleie hall on
the north side of Beltingham; after which it méeteth with the Alen a
proper water, and described after this maner.
[Sidenote: East Alen.]
The Alen or Alon hath two heads, whereof one is called east Alen, the
other west Alen. The first of them riseth southeast of Sibton Sheles, &
going by Sundorp, it taketh in a rill withall from by est; after which
confluence it runneth to Newshele, Allington, Caddon, Old towne, & in
[Sidenote: West Alen.]
the course to Stauertpele, méeteth with the west Alen. The west Alen
riseth in Killop low hilles aboue Wheteleie sheles, from whence it goeth
to Spartwell, Hawcopole, Owston, and taking in a rill thereabouts, it
procéedeth on to Permandbie, and crossing there another rill in like
maner from by west, it goeth by Whitefield, and ioining soone after with
the est Alen, they run as one to Stauert poole, Plankford, and so into
the Tine betweene Beltingham and Lées, from whence the Tine runneth on
by Lees Haddon, Woodhall, Owmers, Whernebie, Costleie, & so by Warden,
till it crosse the north Tine, and come to Hexham, from whence it goeth
to Dilstan, crossing two waters by the waie, whereof one commeth from by
south, and is called the Wolsh, which holdeth his course by Stelehall,
and Newbiggin receiueth another comming from Grimbridge: the other
called Dill somewhat lower descending from Hedleie, and running by
Rising, till it fall into the south side of our streame from Dilstan, it
goeth to Bywell castell, ouer against which it receiueth a rill that
runneth by Hindleie, thence it hasteth to Eltingham, Pruddo, Willam,
(and there it meeteth with another becke) then to Reton, Blaidon, and
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
next of all ioineth with the Darwent, from by south.