THE RETREAT
"April 1.--All the vessels are stuck fast for want of water! This is
terrible. I went on in advance with my diahbeeah, accompanied by Mr.
Baker, for about three miles to explore. Throughout this distance the
greatest depth was about four feet, and the average was under three
feet. At length the diahbeeah, which drew only two feet three inches,
was fast aground! This was at a point where two raised mounds, or
dubbas, were on opposite sides of the river. I left the vessel, and with
Mr. Baker, I explored in the rowing boat for about two miles in advance.
After the first mile, the boat grounded in about six inches of water
upon firm sand. The river, after having deepened for a short space, was
suddenly divided into three separate channels, all of which were too
shallow for the passage of the diahbeeah, and two were even too shallow
to admit the small boat. The boatmen jumped out, and we hauled her up
the shallows until we reached the main stream, above the three channels,
which ran from the S.S.E., but having no greater mean depth than about
two feet six inches.
"We continued for some distance up the stream with the same unfortunate
results. The banks, although flooded during the wet season, were now
dry, and a forest was about a mile distant. Having left the boat and
ascended a white ant-hill, about eight feet high, in order to take a
view of the country, I observed a herd of very beautiful antelopes, of a
kind that were quite un known to me.
"By careful stalking on the flat plain from one ant-hill to another, I
obtained a fair shot at about 140 yards, and killed. Both male and
female have horns, therefore I found it difficult to distinguish the sex
at that distance. I was delighted with my prize; it was a female,
weighing, I should estimate, about twenty stone, clean. The hide was a
deep reddish yellow, with black shoulders and legs, also black from the
hind quarters down the hind legs. It belonged to the species
hippotragus, and had horns that curved backwards, something similar to
the hippotragus niger, but much shorter.[*]
[*Footnote: Vide Appendix. This antelope, which I considered to be a
new species, proved to be the Damalis Senegalensis of Western Africa.]
"We soon cut it into quarters, and carried it to the boat. This little
success in sport had cheered me for the moment; but the happy excitement
quickly passed away, and we returned to the diahbeeah quite
disheartened. It is simply impossible to continue the voyage, as there
is no means of floating the vessels.
"To-morrow I shall explore the channel No. 3, which runs from the W.S.W.
"April 2.--I explored the west channel. This is very narrow, and
overgrown with grass. After about a mile we arrived at a shallow place
only two feet deep. The whole river is absolutely impracticable at this
season. During the rains, and even to the end of December, when the
river is full, the vessels could pass, but at no other time. All my
labour has been useless, but it would be utterly absurd to attempt a
further advance. I have therefore determined to return at once to the
Shillook country, and establish a station. Mr. Higginbotham and party
will then unite with us, and I will collect the entire force from
Khartoum, and start with the expedition complete in the end of November.
Although I am grievously disappointed, I am convinced that this is the
wisest course. During the rainy season the troops shall cultivate corn,
and I shall explore the old White Nile in a steamer, and endeavour to
discover a navigable channel via the original route by the Bahr Gazal.
"I was obliged with a heavy heart to give the sad order to turn back; at
3 p.m. we arrived at the assembled fleet.
"I summoned all the officers, and in the presence of Raouf Bey I
explained the necessity. The vessels immediately commenced the return
voyage, all the officers and men being delighted at the idea of a
retreat which they imagined would take them to Khartoum, and terminate
the expedition; thus I had little sympathy.--However, I determined to
make arrangements for the following season that would enable me to cut
through every difficulty. I kept these intentions to myself, or only
shared them with my wife and Lieutenant Baker.
"April 3.--Washed decks early, and sent off three soldiers, thus
reducing the escort on the diahbeeah to seven men.
"The entire fleet was in full retreat with wind and stream in favour. I
would not permit the diahbeeah that had always led the advance to
accompany them in the retreat; therefore I allowed them to push on
ahead.
"A shower of rain fell to-day; also yesterday.
"A few minutes after starting, both the steamers stuck fast. As I was
walking the poop of the diahbeeah, I noticed with the telescope an
antelope standing on the summit of an ant-hill about a mile and a
quarter distant. There is no change so delightful as a little sport if
you are in low spirits; thus, taking the rifle, I rowed up the river for
about half a mile in the small boat, and then landing, I obtained the
right wind. It was exceedingly difficult to approach game in these
extensive treeless flats, and it would have been quite impossible, had
it not been for the innumerable hills of the white ants; these are the
peculiar features of these swampy countries, and the intelligence of the
insects directs their architecture to a height far above the level of
the highest floods. The earth used in their construction is the subsoil,
brought up from a considerable depth, as the ant-hills are yellow, while
the surface soil is black. The earth is first swallowed by the insect
and thus it becomes mixed with some albuminous matter which converts it
into a cement that resists the action of rain. These hills were
generally about eight feet high in the swampy districts, but I have
frequently seen them above ten feet. The antelopes make use of such
ant-hills as watch towers, from which lofty position they can observe an
enemy at a great distance. It is the custom of several varieties to
place sentries while the herd is grazing, and upon this occasion,
although the sentry was alone visible, I felt sure that the herd was
somewhere in his neighbourhood. I have noticed that the sentries are
generally bulls. On this occasion I resolved, if possible, to stalk the
watchman. I was shooting with a very accurate express rifle, a No. 70
bore of Purdey's, belonging to my friend, Sir Edward Kerrison, who had
kindly lent it to me as a favourite weapon when I left England. The
grass was very low, and quite green, as it had been fired by the
wandering natives some time since; thus, in places there were patches of
the tall withered herbage that had been only partially consumed by the
fire while unripe: these patches were an assistance in stalking.
"It was, of course, necessary to keep several tall ant-hills in a line
with that upon which the antelope was standing, and to stoop so low that
I could only see the horns of the animal upon the sky-line. In some
places it was necessary to crawl upon the ground; this was trying work,
on account of the sharp stumps of the burnt herbage which punished the
hands and knees. The fine charcoal dust from the recent fire was also a
trouble, as the wind blew it into the eyes. The watermark upon the
ant-hills was about eighteen inches above the base, proving the height
of the annual floods; and a vast number of the large water helix, the
size of a man's fist, lay scattered over the ground, destroyed and
partially calcined by the late prairie fire.
"The sun was very hot, and I found crawling so great a distance a
laborious operation; my eyes were nearly blinded with perspiration and
charcoal dust; but every now and then, as I carefully raised my head, I
could distinguish the horns of the antelope in the original position. At
length I arrived at the base of the last ant-hill from which I must take
my shot.
"There were a few tufts of low scrub growing on the summit; to these I
climbed, and digging my toes firmly into an inequality in the side of
the hill, I planted my elbows well on the surface, my cap being
concealed by the small bushes and tufts of withered grass. The antelope
was standing unconsciously about 170 yards, or, as I then considered,
about 180 yards from me, perfectly motionless, and much resembling a
figure fixed upon a pedestal. The broadside was exposed, thus it would
have been impossible to have had a more perfect opportunity after a long
stalk. Having waited in a position for a minute or two, to become cool
and to clear my eyes, I aimed at his shoulder. Almost as I touched the
trigger, the antelope sank suddenly upon its knees, in which position it
remained for some seconds on the summit of the ant-hill, and then rolled
down to the base, dead. I stepped the exact distance, 169 paces. I had
fired rather high, as the bullet had broken the spine a little in front
of the shoulder-blade. It was a very beautiful animal, a fine bull, of
the same kind that I had killed on 1st April. This antelope was about
thirteen hands high at the shoulder, the head long, the face and ears
black, also the top of the head; the body bright bay, with a stripe of
black about fifteen inches in width extending obliquely across the
shoulder, down both the fore and the hind legs, and meeting at the rump.
The tail was long, with a tuft of long black hair at the extremity. The
horns were deeply annulated, and curved backwards towards the shoulders.
"This was a very large animal, that would have weighed quite thirty
stone when gralloched. My boatman, who had been watching the sport,
immediately despatched a man for assistance to the diahbeeah. I enjoyed
the beauty of this animal: the hide glistened like the coat of a
well-groomed horse.
"I did not reach the diahbeeah until 6 p.m.; we then started without
delay, and reached the fleet at midnight, at the junction of the ditch
through which we had previously arrived at the main river.
"April 4.--The vessels are passing with great difficulty over the
shallow entrance of the ditch.
"April 5.--All the vessels have passed. At 6 p.m. we succeeded, after
much labour, in getting the last of the steamers through. This
accomplished, and having the stream in our favour, we passed along in a
compact line for about a mile and a half, the ditch that we had opened
being clear and in good order.
"April 6.--Another soldier died. This poor man was the companion of him
who, a few days ago, prophesied his own end when he lost his friend.
Curiously enough, he died as he was passing the spot where his friend
was buried, and we had to bury him in the same ant-hill. The Egyptian
troops are very unhealthy. When they first joined the expedition, they
were an exceedingly powerful body of men, whose PHYSIQUE I much admired,
although their MORALE was of the worst type. I think that every man has
lost at least a stone in weight since we commenced this dreadful voyage
in chaos, or the Slough of Despond.
"The boats reached the small lake, and continued their voyage through
the channel, and anchored for the night at the northern extremity of the
five-mile lake. We catch delicious fish daily with the casting-net; the
best are the Nile perch, that runs from a pound to four or five pounds,
and a species of carp. One of my boatmen is a professional fisherman who
understands the casting-net, but he is the only man who can use it.
"April 7.--The channel is again blocked up; all hands clearing into the
next lake. Another soldier died--making a total of nine; with two
sailors and a boy--total twelve.
"April 8.--Passed into lake No. 2, and by the afternoon reached lake No.
3, where we found our old channel blocked up. I set men to work to open
the passage, but there is no chance of its completion until about noon
to-morrow. Since we passed this lake a change has taken place, the
obstruction through which we cut a channel has entirely broken up. Large
rafts of about two acres each have drifted asunder, and have floated to
the end of the lake. It is thus impossible to predict what the future
may effect. There can be no doubt that the whole of this country was at
some former period a lake, which has gradually filled up with
vegetation. The dry land, which is only exposed during the hot season,
is the result of the decay of vegetable matter. The ashes of the grass
that is annually burnt, by degrees form a soil. We are even now
witnessing the operation that has formed, and is still increasing, the
vast tract of alluvial soil through which we have passed. There is not a
stone nor even a small pebble for a distance of two hundred miles; the
country is simple mud.
"April 9.--Passed the old channel at 11.45 a.m., after much labour, and
we found the long five-mile cutting pretty clear, with the exception of
two or three small obstructions. At 5.30 p.m. we reached the Bahr
Giraffe, from which extremely narrow channel we had first commenced our
difficult work of cutting through many miles of country.
"Who could believe the change? Some evil spirit appears to rule in this
horrible region of everlasting swamp. A wave of the demon's wand, and an
incredible change appears! The narrow and choked Bahr Giraffe has
disappeared; instead of which a river of a hundred yards' width of clear
running water meets us at the junction of our cutting. As far as the eye
can reach to the E.S.E., there is a succession of large open sheets of
water where a few days ago we saw nothing but a boundless plain of marsh
grass, without one drop of water visible. These sheets of water mark the
course of a river, but each lake is separated by a dam of floating
vegetation. The volume of water is very important, and a stream is
running at the rate of three miles an hour. Nevertheless, although in
open water, we now find ourselves prisoners in a species of lake, as we
are completely shut in by a serious dam of dense rafts of vegetation
that have been borne forward and tightly compressed by the great force
of this new river. It is simply ridiculous to suppose that this river
can ever be rendered navigable. One or two vessels, if alone, would be
utterly helpless, and might be entirely destroyed with their crews by a
sudden change that would break up the country and inclose them in a trap
from which they could never escape.
"We passed the night at anchor. Many hippopotami are snorting and
splashing in the new lakes.
"April 10.--After a hard day's labour, a portion of the fleet succeeded
in cutting through the most serious dam, and we descended our old river
to the dubba, or dry mound, where we had first discovered vestiges of
the traders. The No. 10 steamer arrived in the evening. The river is
wider than when we last saw it, but is much obstructed by small islands,
formed of rafts of vegetation that have grounded in their descent. I
fear we may find the river choked in many places below stream. No
dependence can ever be placed upon this accursed river. The fabulous
Styx must be a sweet rippling brook, compared to this horrible creation.
A violent wind acting upon the high waving plain of sugar-cane grass may
suddenly create a change; sometimes islands are detached by the gambols
of a herd of hippopotami, whose rude rambles during the night, break
narrow lanes through the floating plains of water-grass, and separate
large masses from the main body.
"The water being pent up by enormous dams of vegetation, mixed with mud
and half-decayed matter, forms a chain of lakes at slightly-varying
levels. The sudden breaking of one dam would thus cause an impetuous
rush of stream that might tear away miles of country, and entirely
change the equilibrium of the floating masses.
"April 11.--I sent a sailing vessel ahead to examine the river, with
orders that she should dip her ensign in case she met with an
obstruction. Thank God, all is clear. I therefore ordered the steamers
to remount their paddles.
"We started at 10 p.m.
"April 12.--At 11.30 p.m. we met five of Ghatta's [*] boats bound for
the White Nile. These people declared their intention of returning,
when they heard the deplorable account of the river.
[*Footnote: one of the principal Khartoum ivory and slave-traders]
"At 2 a.m. we arrived at our old position, close to our former wood
station in the forest.
"April 13.--Started at 11.30 a.m. The river has fallen three feet since
we were here, and the country is now dry. Mr. Baker and I therefore
walked a portion of the way upon the banks as the diahbeeah slowly
descended the stream. There were great numbers of wild fowl; also
hippopotami, and being provided with both shot guns and heavy rifles we
made a very curious bag during the afternoon, that in England or
Scotland would have been difficult to carry home; we shot and secured
two hippopotami, one crocodile, twenty-two geese, and twenty ducks.
"At 7 p.m. we arrived at the station of Kutchuk Ali. I sent for the
vakeel, or agent, commanding the company, to whom I thoroughly explained
the system and suppression of the slave trade. He seemed very
incredulous that it would actually be enforced; but I recommended him
not to make the experiment of sending cargoes of slaves down to
Khartoum, as he had done in previous years. He appeared to be very
confident that because his employer, Kutchuk Ali, had been promoted to
the rank of sandjak, with the command of a government expedition, no
inquiry would be made concerning the acts of his people. No greater
proof could be given of the insincerity of the Soudan authorities in
professing to suppress the slave trade, than the fact that Djiaffer
Pacha, the governor-general of the Soudan, had given the command of an
expedition to this same Kutchuk Ali, who was known as one of the
principal slave-traders of the White Nile.
"April 14.--One of my black soldiers deserted, but was captured. We also
caught a sailor who had deserted to the slave-hunters during our passage
up the river, but as we returned unexpectedly he was discovered. The
colonel, Raouf Bey, reported this morning that several officers and
soldiers had actually purchased slaves to-day from Kutchuk Ali's
station; thus, the Khedive's troops, who are employed under my command
to suppress the slave trade, would quickly convert the expedition into a
slave market. I at once ordered the slaves to be returned, and issued
stringent instructions to the officers.
"I saw this afternoon a number of newly-captured slave women and girls
fetching water under the guard of a scoundrel with a loaded musket. I
know that the station is full of slaves; but there is much diplomacy
necessary, and at present I do not intend to visit their camp.
"April 15.--To prevent further desertions, it was necessary to offer an
example to the troops. I therefore condemned the deserter who was
captured yesterday to be shot at noon.
"At the bugle call, the troops mustered on parade in full uniform. The
prisoner in irons was brought forward and marched round the hollow
square, accompanied by muffled drums.
"The sentence having been declared, after a short address to the men,
the prisoner was led out, and the firing party advanced. He was a fine
young man of about twenty years of age, a native of Pongo, who had been
taken as a slave, and had become a soldier against his will.
"There was much allowance for desertion under the circumstances, and I
was moved by the manly way in which he prepared for death. He cast his
eye around, but he found neither sympathy nor friends in the hard
features of the officers and men. The slave-trader's people had turned
out in great numbers, dressed in their best clothes, to enjoy the fun of
a military execution. The firing party was ready; the prisoner knelt
down with his back towards them, at about five paces distant. At that
moment he turned his face with a beseeching expression towards me; but
he was ordered immediately to look straight before him.
"The order, 'Present,' was given, and the sharp clicking of the locks,
as the muskets were brought on full cock and presented, left but another
moment . . . . .
"At that instant I ordered the firing party to retire, and I summoned
the prisoner, who was brought up in charge of the guard. In the presence
of all the troops I then explained to him the necessity of strict
discipline, and that the punishment of death must certainly follow
desertion, at the same time I made such allowance for his youth and
ignorance that I determined to reduce the punishment to that of
flogging, which I trusted would be a warning to him and all others. I
assured him, and the troops generally, that although I should never
flinch from administering severe punishment when necessary, I should be
much happier in rewarding those who should do their duty. The prisoner
was flogged and kept in irons. The troops formed into sections of
companies and marched past with band playing; each company cheering as
they passed before me; but the crowd of slave-hunters slunk back to
their station, disappointed that no blood had been spilt for their
amusement.[*]
[Footnote: It was satisfactory to me that this young man, who was
pardoned and punished as described, became one of the best and most
thoroughly trustworthy soldiers of my body-guard; and having at length
been raised to the rank of corporal, he was at the close of the
expedition promoted to that of sergeant. His name was Ferritch Ajoke.]
"No person except Lieutenant Baker and the colonel, Raouf Bey, had been
in the secret that I HAD NEVER INTENDED TO SHOOT THE MAN. I had merely
arranged an impressive scene as a coup de theatre, that I trusted might
benefit the MORALE of the men.
"We were now in the fine clear stream of the Bahr Giraffe, which, having
received numerous affluents from the marsh regions, was united in one
volume. We got up steam and started at 4.30 p.m., and the diahbeeah,
towed by the steamer down stream, travelled at about nine miles an hour
until 8 a.m., making a run of 125 miles.
"We then stopped at a large forest on the west bank to cut wood for the
steamer.
"April 16.--Went out shooting with Mr. Baker, and shot two Ellipsyprymna
antelopes. The country is beautiful, but game is scarce. The forest is
much broken by elephants, which appear to frequent it during the wet
season. These animals are very useful in preparing wood for the
steamers' fires. They break down the green trees, which dry and become
good fuel. Were it not for the elephants, we should only find dead wood,
which is nearly all either hollow or rotten, and of little use as
firewood. Today we met four vessels from Khartoum that had followed me
with a reinforcement of one company of troops, with letters from
Djiaffer Pacha and Mr. Higginbotham.
"April 17.--We steamed about thirty-seven miles and then halted at a
good forest to fill up our supply of wood. The forest on the left bank
is about thirty-seven miles in length, but it is merely a few hundred
yards in width, beyond which the country is prairie. On the east bank,
where there is no forest, we saw giraffes, buffaloes, and antelopes in
considerable numbers during the day.
"April 18.--Filling up wood in the morning. We then travelled three
hours, and halted eleven miles from the White Nile junction. During the
voyage we saw a lion and lioness with five cubs running off alarmed at
the steamer.
"In the afternoon I went out and shot seven geese and two fine black
bucks.
"Lieutenant Baker was unfortunately ill with fever. Here we met four
more vessels with a company of soldiers from Khartoum. They of course
remained with us.
"April 19:--In an hour and a half we arrived at the White Nile, and
twenty minutes later we saw three vessels belonging to the mudir, or
governor, of Fashoda. We heard from the people on these boats that the
governor (Ali Bey, the Koordi) was making a razzia on the Shillook
tribe. The banks of the river were crowded with natives running away in
all directions; women were carrying off all their little household
goods, and children were following their parents, each with a basket on
their heads containing either food or something too valuable to be left
behind. I immediately went off in a rowing boat, and, after much
difficulty, I succeeded in inducing some of the natives who could speak
Arabic to stop and converse with me. They declared that the Turks had
attacked them without provocation, and that the Koordi (as the governor
of Fashoda was called) had stolen many of their women and children, and
had killed their people, as he was generally plundering the country. I
begged the natives not to fly from their district, but to wait until I
should make inquiries on the following day; and I promised to restore
the women and children, should they have been kidnapped.
"I halted at a forest about nine miles from the junction of the Bahr
Giraffe, where a bend of the river concealed the steamers and diahbeeah.
"Late at night, when most people were asleep, I sent orders to the chief
engineer of the No. 10 steamer to have the steam up at five on the
following morning.
"April 20.--We started punctually at the appointed hour; my diahbeeah,
as usual, being towed by the steamer. As we rounded the point and
quickly came in sight of the governor's vessels, I watched them with a
powerful telescope. For some time we appeared to be unobserved. I knew
that the troops were not celebrated for keeping a sharp lookout, and we
arrived within three-quarters of a mile before the sound of our paddles
attracted their attention. The telescope now disclosed some of the
mysteries of the expedition. I perceived a considerable excitement among
the troops on shore. I made out one tent, and I distinguished men
hurrying to and fro apparently busy and excited. During this time we
were rapidly approaching, and as the distance lessened, I could
distinctly see a number of people being driven from the shore on board a
vessel that was lying alongside the bank. I felt convinced that these
were slaves, as I could distinguish the difference in size between the
children and adults. In the mean time we were travelling at full speed
(about eight miles an hour) in the broad but slack current of that
portion of the White Nile.
"At 6.35 we ranged up alongside the bank opposite the tent which
belonged to the Koordi governor of Fashoda. We had passed close to the
three vessels, but no person was visible except their crews. My arrival
was evidently quite unexpected, and not very agreeable.
"The governor shortly appeared, and was invited on the poop deck of my
diahbeeah; this was always furnished with carpets and sofas so as to
form a divan.
"After a pipe and coffee, I commenced the conversation by describing the
impossibility of an advance at this season via the Bahr Giraffe,
therefore I had found it necessary to return. He simply replied, `God is
great! and, please God, you will succeed next year.'
"I now asked him how many troops he had with him, as I noticed two brass
guns, and a number of irregular cavalry, in addition to some companies
of infantry. He replied that he had five companies in addition to the
cavalry and mounted Baggara Arabs; and that he was `collecting the
taxes.'
"I begged him to explain to me his system of taxation; and to inform me
whether he had established a poll, or a house tax, or in what special
form the dues were represented. This seemed to be a great puzzle to the
mind of the governor, and after applying to my colonel, to whom he spoke
in Turkish, he replied that the people were very averse to taxation,
therefore he made one annual tour throughout the country, and collected
what he thought just.
"I asked him whether he captured women and children in the same way in
which he annexed the natives' cattle. To this he replied by a distinct
negative, at the same time assuming an expression of horror at such an
idea.
"I immediately ordered my aide-de-camp, Lieutenant-Colonel Abd-el-Kader,
to visit the vessels that were lying a few yards astern. This was a very
excellent and trustworthy officer, and he immediately started upon an
examination. In the mean while the Koordi governor sat rigidly upon the
sofa, puffing away at his long pipe, but evidently thinking that the
affair would not end in simple smoke.
"In a few minutes I heard the voice of my colonel angrily expostulating
with the crew of the vessel, who had denied that any slaves were on
board. Almost at the same time a crowd of unfortunate captives emerged
from below, where they had been concealed, and walked singly along the
plank to the shore; being counted by the officer according to sex as
they disembarked. The Koordi governor looked uncomfortable, as this
happened before our eyes. I made no remark, but simply expressed a wish
to walk round his encampment.
"Having passed through the place of bivouac, where the foulest smells
attacked us from all sides, I thoroughly examined the spot, accompanied
by Lieutenant Baker and a few officers of my staff. There was no
military order, but the place was occupied by a crowd of soldiers,
mingled with many native allies, under the command of an extremely
blackguard-looking savage, dressed in a long scarlet cloak made of
woollen cloth. This was belted round his waist, to which was suspended a
crooked Turkish sabre; he wore a large brass medal upon his breast,
which somewhat resembled those ornaments that undertakers use for giving
a lively appearance to coffins. This fellow was introduced to me by the
Koordi as the `king of the Shillooks.'
"In the rear of the party, to which spot I had penetrated while the
Koordi was engaged in giving orders to certain officers, I came suddenly
upon a mass of slaves, who were squatted upon the ground, and surrounded
by dirty clothes, arranged like a fence, by the support of lances,
pieces of stick, camel saddles, &c. These people were guarded by a
number of soldiers, who at first seemed to think that my visit was one
of simple curiosity.
"Many of the women were secured to each other by ropes passed from neck
to neck. A crowd of children, including very young infants, squatted
among the mass, and all kept a profound silence, and regarded me with
great curiosity. Having sent for my notebook, I divided the slaves into
classes, and counted them as follows:--
Concealed in the boat we had discovered, 71 Those on shore guarded by
sentries were 84 ---- 155
including 65 girls and women, 80 children, and 10 men. The governor of
Fashoda, whom I thus had caught in the act of kidnapping slaves, was the
person who, a few weeks before, had assured me that the slave trade was
suppressed, as the traders dared not pass his station of Fashoda. The
real fact was, that this excellent example of the Soudan made a
considerable fortune by levying a toll upon every slave which the
traders' boats brought down the river; this he put into his own pocket.
"I immediately informed him that I should report him to the Khedive, at
the same time I insisted upon the liberation of every slave.
"At first he questioned my authority, saying that he held the rank of
bey, and was governor of the district. I simply told him that `if he
refused to liberate the slaves, he must give me that refusal in
writing.' This was an awkward fix, and he altered his tone by attempting
to explain that they were not slaves, but only held as hostages until
the people should pay their taxes. At the same time he was obliged to
confess that there was no established tax. I heard that he had received
from one native ten cows for the ransom of his child, thus the stolen
child was sold back to the father for ten cows! and this was the Soudan
method of collecting taxes! If the unfortunate father had been shot dead
in the razzia, his unransomed child would have been carried away and
sold as a slave; or should the panic-stricken natives be afraid to
approach with a ransom for fear of being kidnapped themselves, the women
and children would be lost to them for ever.
"I was thoroughly disgusted. I knew that what I had happened to discover
was the rule of the Soudan, and that the protestations of innocence of
governors was simply dust thrown into the eyes. It was true that the
Shillook country was not in my jurisdiction; but I was determined to
interfere in behalf of the slaves, although I should not meddle with the
general affairs of the country. I therefore told the Koordi that I had
the list of the captives, and he must send for some responsible native
to receive them and take them to their homes. In the mean time I should
remain in the neighbourhood. I then returned to the fleet that I had
left at the forest. In the evening we were joined by most of the rear
vessels.
"April 21.--At 9.30 a.m. we sighted eleven vessels in full sail,
approaching from Khartoum, with a strong N.E. wind, and shortly
afterwards we were delighted by the arrival of Mr. Higginbotham, Dr.
Gedge, and the six English engineers, shipwrights, &c., all in good
health.
"April 22.--I paid a visit to the Koordi's camp, accompanied by Mr.
Baker and Mr. Higginbotham, as I wished to have European witnesses to
the fact. Upon arrival, I explained to the governor that he had
compromised the Egyptian Government by his act, and as I had received
general instructions from the Khedive to suppress all slave-hunters, I
could only regard him in that category, as I had actually found him in
the act. I must, therefore, insist upon the immediate and unconditional
release of all the slaves. After an attempt at evasion, he consented,
and I at once determined to liberate them personally, which would
establish confidence among the natives.
"Accompanied by Lieutenant Baker and Mr. Higginbotham, and the various
officers of the staff, I ordered the ropes, irons, and other
accompaniments of slavery to be detached; and I explained through an
interpreter to the astonished crowd of captives, that the Khedive had
abolished slavery, therefore they were at liberty to return to their own
homes. At first, they appeared astounded, and evidently could not
realize the fact; but upon my asking them where their homes were, they
pointed to the boundless rows of villages in the distance, and said,
`Those are our homes, but many of our men are killed, and all our cattle
and corn are carried off.' I could only advise them to pack off as
quickly as possible, now that they had the chance of freedom.
"The women immediately took up their little infants (one had been born
during the night), others led the very small children by the hand, and
with a general concert, they burst into the long, quavering, and shrill
yell that denotes rejoicing. I watched them as they retreated over the
plain to their deserted homes, and I took a coldly polite farewell of
the Koordi. The looks of astonishment of the Koordi's troops as I passed
through their camp were almost comic. I shall report this affair to the
Khedive direct; but I feel sure that the exposure of the governor of
Fashoda will not add to the popularity of the expedition among the lower
officials.
"April 23.--I started with two steamers and two diahbeeahs to explore a
favourable spot for a permanent station. We reached the Sobat junction
in three hours and a quarter, about twenty-five miles. From the Sobat,
down stream, we steamed for forty minutes, arriving at a forest, on a
high bank to the east, where some extraordinary high dome palms (palma
Thebaica), together with dolape palms (Borassus Ethiopicus), gave an air
of tropical beauty to a desolate and otherwise uninviting spot.
"I fixed upon this place for a station as the ground was hard, the
position far above the level of high floods, and the forest afforded a
supply of wood for building purposes and fuel.
"April 24.--We steamed for half-an-hour down stream to a large village
on the west bank, named Wat-a-jook. Thence I went down stream for one
hour to the grove of dolape palms and gigantic India rubber trees. This
was formerly a large village, known as Hillet-el-dolape, but it has been
entirely destroyed by the governor of Fashoda. After much difficulty, I
induced some natives to come to me, with whom I at length made friends:
they all joined in accusing the Koordi governor of wanton atrocities.
"In the afternoon, not having discovered a spot superior to that I had
already selected for a station, we returned; but we had not travelled
more than an hour and a half when the engine of the No. 10 steamer broke
down. On examination, it appeared that the air pump was broken.
Fortunately the accident occurred close to the spot selected for a
station.
"April 25.--At 12.30 p.m. I sent back the No. 8 steamer to call the
fleet to the station. I soon made friends with the natives, great
numbers of whom congregated on the west bank of the river. All these
people had heard that I had liberated the women and children.
"April 26.--The steamer and entire fleet arrived in the afternoon.
"The natives brought a bullock and a Pongo slave as a present from the
chief. I freed the slave, and sent a piece of cloth as an introduction
to the chief.
"April 27.--This was a busy day passed in measuring out the camp. I set
several companies at work to fell the forest and to prepare timber for
building.
"April 28.--Pouring rain. No work possible.
"April 29.--The Englishmen set up their forge and anvil; and we
commenced unloading corrugated iron sheets to form our magazines.
Fortunately, I had a number of wall-plates, rafters, &c., that I had
brought from Egypt for this purpose, as there is no straight wood in the
country.
"The sheik or head of the Shillook tribe sent envoys with a present of
four bullocks and two small tusks, with a message that he wished to see
me, but he was afraid to come. I accordingly sent the messengers back in
the No. 8 steamer with ten soldiers as an escort to bring him to my
station.
"April 30.--We commenced erecting the iron magazines. Lieutenant Baker,
Mr. Higginbotham, and the Englishmen all actively employed, while Raouf
Bey and his officers, instead of attending to the pressing work of
forming the permanent camp, sit under a tree and smoke and drink coffee
throughout the day.
"The artillerymen are nearly all ill; likewise many of the Egyptian
regiment, while the black troops are well and in excellent spirits.
There is no doubt that for this service the blacks are very superior to
the Egyptians: these are full of religious prejudices combined with
extreme ignorance, and they fall sick when deprived of the vegetable
diet to which they are accustomed in Egypt.
"In the evening the steamer returned with the true Shillook king,
accompanied by two of his wives, four daughters, and a retinue of about
seventy people."