ENGLISH PARTY.
The success of an expedition depends mainly upon organization. From my
former experience in Central Africa, I knew exactly the requirements of
the natives, and all the material that would be necessary for the
enterprise. I also knew that the old adage of "out of sight out of mind"
might be adopted as the Egyptian motto, therefore it would be
indispensable to supply myself with everything at the outset, so as to
be independent of support hereafter.
The English party consisted of myself and Lady Baker; Lieutenant Julian
Alleyne Baker, R.N.; Mr. Edwin Higginbotham, civil engineer; Mr. Wood,
secretary; Dr. Joseph Gedge, physician; Mr. Marcopolo, chief storekeeper
and interpreter; Mr. McWilliam, chief engineer of steamers; Mr. Jarvis,
chief shipwright; together with Messrs. Whitfield, Samson, Hitchman, and
Ramsall, shipwrights, boiler-makers, &c. In addition to the above were
two servants.
I laid in stores sufficient to last the European party four years.
I provided four galvanized iron magazines, each eighty feet long by
twenty in width, to protect all material.
Before I left England I personally selected every article that was
necessary for the expedition; thus an expenditure of about 9,000 pounds
was sufficient for the purchase of the almost innumerable items that
formed the outfit for the enterprise. This included an admirable
selection of Manchester goods, such as cotton sheeting, grey calico,
cotton and also woollen blankets, white, scarlet, and blue; Indian
scarfs, red and yellow; handkerchiefs of gaudy colours, chintz printed;
scarlet flannel shirts, serge of colours (blue, red), linen trowsers,
&c., &c.
Tools of all sorts--axes, small hatchets, harness bells, brass and
copper rods, combs, zinc mirrors, knives, crockery, tin plates,
fish-hooks, musical boxes, coloured prints, finger-rings, razors, tinned
spoons, cheap watches, &c., &c.
All these things were purchased through Messrs. Silber & Fleming, of
Wood Street, Cheapside.
I thus had sufficient clothing for a considerable body of troops if
necessary, while the magazines could produce anything from a needle to a
crowbar, or from a handkerchief to a boat's sail. It will be seen
hereafter that these careful arrangements assured the success of the
expedition, as the troops, when left without pay, could procure all they
required from the apparently inexhaustible stores of the magazines.
In addition to the merchandise and general supplies, I had several large
musical boxes with bells and drums, an excellent magic lantern, a
magnetic battery, wheels of life, and an assortment of toys. The
greatest wonder to the natives were two large girandoles; also the
silvered balls, about six inches in diameter, that, suspended from the
branch of a tree, reflected the scene beneath.
In every expedition the principal difficulty is the transport.
"Travel light, if possible," is the best advice for all countries; but
in this instance it was simply impossible, as the object of the
expedition was not only to convey steamers to Central Africa, but to
establish legitimate trade in the place of the nefarious system of
pillage hitherto adopted by the so-called White Nile traders. It was
therefore absolutely necessary to possess a large stock of goods of all
kinds, in addition to the machinery and steel sections of steamers.
I arranged that the expedition should start in three divisions.
Six steamers, varying from 40 to 80-horse power, were ordered to leave
Cairo in June, together with fifteen sloops and fifteen diahbeeahs--
total, thirty-six vessels--to ascend the cataracts of the Nile to
Khartoum, a distance by river of about 1,450 miles. These vessels were
to convey the whole of the merchandise.
Twenty-five vessels were ordered to be in readiness at Khartoum,
together with three steamers. The governor-general (Djiaffer Pacha) was
to provide these vessels by a certain date, together with the camels and
horses necessary for the land transport.
Thus when the fleet should arrive at Khartoum from Cairo, the total
force of vessels would be nine steamers and fifty-five sailing vessels,
the latter averaging about fifty tons each.
Mr. Higginbotham had the command of the desert transport from Korosko to
Khartoum, and to that admirable officer I intrusted the charge of the
steamer sections and machinery, together with the command of the English
engineers and mechanics.
I arranged to bring up the rear by another route, via Souakim on the Red
Sea, from which the desert journey to Berber, on the Nile, N. lat. 17
degrees 37 minutes, is 275 statute miles.
My reason for this division of routes was to insure a quick supply of
camels, as much delay would have been occasioned had the great mass of
transport been conveyed by one road.
The military arrangements comprised a force of 1,645 troops, including a
corps of 200 irregular cavalry, and two batteries of artillery. The
infantry were two regiments, supposed to be well selected. The black or
Soudani regiment included many officers and men who had served for some
years in Mexico with the French army under Marshal Bazaine. The Egyptian
regiment turned out to be for the most part convicted felons who had
been transported for various crimes from Egypt to the Soudan.
The artillery were rifled mountain guns of bronze, the barrel weighing
230 lbs., and throwing shells of 8-1/4 lbs. The authorities at Woolwich
had kindly supplied the expedition with 200 Hale's
rockets--three-pounders--and fifty snider rifles, together with 50,000
rounds of snider ammunition. The military force and supplies were to be
massed in Khartoum ready to meet me upon my arrival.
I had taken extra precautions in the packing of ammunition and all
perishable goods. The teak boxes for snider ammunition, also the boxes
of Hale's rockets, were lined and hermetically sealed with soldered tin.
The light Manchester goods and smaller articles were packed in strong,
useful, painted tin boxes, with locks and hinges, &c. Each box was
numbered, and when the lid was opened, a tin plate was soldered over the
open face, so that the lid, when closed, locked above an hermetically
sealed case. Each tin box was packed in a deal case, with a number to
correspond with the box within.
By this arrangement the tin boxes arrived at their destination as good
as new, and were quite invaluable for travelling, as they each formed a
handy load, and were alike proof against the attacks of insects and bad
weather.
I had long waterproof cloaks for the night sentries in rainy climates,
and sou'-wester caps; these proved of great service during active
operations in the wet season, as the rifles were kept dry beneath the
cloaks, and the men were protected from wet and cold when on guard.
All medicines and drugs were procured from Apothecaries' Hall, and were
accordingly of the best quality.
The provisions for the troops were dhurra (sorghum vulgare), wheat,
rice, and lentils. The supplies from England, and in fact the general
arrangements, had been so carefully attended to, that throughout the
expedition I could not feel a want, neither could I either regret or
wish to have changed any plan that I had originally determined.
For the transport of the heavy machinery across the desert I employed
gun carriages drawn by two camels each. The two sections of steamers and
of lifeboats were slung upon long poles of fir from Trieste, arranged
between two camels in the manner of shafts. Many hundred poles served
this purpose, and subsequently, were used at head-quarters as rafters
for magazines and various buildings.
The No. 1 steamer of 250 tons had not arrived from England. I therefore
left instructions that she was to be forwarded across the desert upon
the same principles as adopted for the transport of the other vessels.
I had thrown my whole heart into the expedition; but I quickly perceived
the difficulties that I should encounter in the passive resistance of
those whose interests would be affected by the suppression of the slave
trade. The arrangements that I had made would have insured success, if
carried out according to the dates specified. The six steamers and the
sailing flotilla from Cairo should have started on 10th June, in order
to have ascended the cataracts of Wady Halfah at the period of high
water. Instead of this, the vessels were delayed, in the absence of the
Khedive in Europe, until 29th August; thus, by the time they reached the
second cataract, the river had fallen, and it was impossible to drag the
`steamers through the passage until the next season. Thus twelve months
were wasted, and I was at once deprived of the invaluable aid of six
steamers.
In addition to this difficulty was the fact of inevitable delay
necessitated by the festivities attending the opening of the Suez Canal.
The Khedive, with his accustomed hospitality, had made immense
preparations for the reception of visitors, and every available vessel
had been prepared for the occasion.
A train of forty-one railway waggons laden with sections of steamers,
machinery, boiler-plates, &c., &c., arrived at Cairo, and were embarked
on board eleven hired vessels. With the greatest difficulty I procured a
steamer of 140-horse power to tow this flotilla to Korosko, from which
spot the desert journey would commence. I obtained this steamer only by
personal application to the Khedive.
At length I witnessed the start of the entire English party of engineers
and mechanics, together with Mr. Higginbotham and Dr. J. Gedge. The
steamer Minieh, towed the lone line of eleven vessels against the
powerful stream of the Nile. One of the tow-ropes snipped at the
commencement of the voyage, which created some confusion, but when
righted they quickly steamed. out of view. This mass of heavy material,
including two steamers, and two steel lifeboats of ten tons each, was to
be transported for a distance of about 3,000 miles, 400 of which would
be across the scorching Nubian deserts!
The first division of the heavy baggage had started on 29th August,
1869, with the sloops, to ascend the cataracts direct by river to
Khartoum. I dared, not trust any portions of the steamers by this
dangerous route, lest by the loss of one vessel with sections I might
destroy all hope of success.
It was a relief to have started the main branches of the expedition,
after the various delays that had already seriously endangered the
chances of the White Nile voyage. For that river all vessels should
leave Khartoum early in November.
On 5th December, 1869, we brought up the rear, and left Suez on board an
Egyptian sloop of war, the Senaar. In four days and a half we reached
Souakim, after an escape from wreck on the reef of Shadwan, and a close
acquaintance with a large barque, with which we nearly came into
collision.
The captain of our sloop was a most respectable man, apparently about
eighty years of age. The first lieutenant appeared to be somewhat his
senior, and neither could see, even with the assistance of a very greasy
and dirty binocular. The various officers appeared to be vestiges from
Noah's ark in point of antiquity; thus a close shave with a reef and a
near rub with a strange vessel were little incidents that might be
expected in the Red Sea.
We anchored safely in the harbour of Souakim; and landed my twenty-one
horses without accident.
I was met by the governor, my old friend Moomtazz Bey, a highly
intelligent Circassian officer, who had shown me much kindness on my
former expedition.
A week's delay in Souakim was necessary to obtain camels. In fourteen
days we crossed the desert 275 miles to Berber on the Nile, and found a
steamer and diahbeeah in readiness. We arrived at Khartoum, a distance
of 200 miles by river, in three days, having accomplished the voyage
from Suez in the short space of thirty-two days, including stoppages.
Khartoum was not changed externally; but I had observed with dismay a
frightful change in the features of the country between Berber and the
capital since my former visit. The rich soil on the banks of the river,
which had a few years since been highly cultivated, was abandoned. Now
and then a tuft of neglected date-palms might be seen, but the river's
banks, formerly verdant with heavy crops, had become a wilderness.
Villages once crowded had entirely disappeared; the population was gone.
Irrigation had ceased. The night, formerly discordant with the creaking
of countless water-wheels, was now silent as death. There was not a dog
to howl for a lost master. Industry had vanished; oppression had driven
the inhabitants from the soil.
This terrible desolation was caused by the governor general of the
Soudan, who, although himself an honest man, trusted too much to the
honesty of others, who preyed upon the inhabitants. As a good and true
Mohammedan, he left his territory to the care of God, and thus, trusting
in Providence, he simply increased the taxes. In one year he sent to the
Khedive his master 100,000 pounds in hard dollars, wrung from the poor
peasantry, who must have lost an equal amount in the pillage that
accompanies the collection.
The population of the richest province of the Soudan fled from
oppression, and abandoned the country; and the greater portion betook
themselves to the slave trade of the White Nile, where, in their turn,
they might trample upon the rights of others; where, as they had been
plundered, they would be able to plunder; where they could reap the
harvest of another's labour; and where, free from the restrictions of a
government, they might indulge in the exciting and lucrative enterprise
of slave-hunting. Thousands had forsaken their homes, and commenced a
life of brigandage on the White Nile.
This was the state of the country when I arrived at Khartoum. The
population of this town, which was about 30,000 during my former visit,
was now reduced to half the number. The European residents had all
disappeared, with the exception of the Austrian Mission, and Mr. Hansall
the Austrian Consul; also an extremely tough German tailor, who was
proof against the climate that had carried off his companions.
I had given the necessary orders for vessels and supplies six months
previous; thus, I naturally expected to find a fleet ready for
departure, with the troops and stores waiting for instructions. To my
surprise, I discovered that my orders had been so far neglected, that
although the troops were at hand, there were no vessels prepared for
transport. I was coolly informed by the governor-general that "it was
impossible to procure the number of vessels required, therefore he had
purchased a house for me, as he expected that I should remain that year
at Khartoum, and start in the following season."
There literally was not one vessel ready for the voyage, in spite of the
positive instructions that had been given. At the same time I found that
the governor-general had just prepared a squadron of eleven vessels,
with several companies of regular troops, for an expedition to the Bahr
Gazal, where it was intended to form a settlement at the copper-mines on
the frontier of Darfur. This expedition had been placed under the
command of one of the most notorious ruffians and slave-hunters of the
White Nile. This man, Kutchuk Ali, originally of low extraction, had
made a fortune in his abominable traffic, and had accordingly received
promotion from the governor; thus, at the same time that the Khedive of
Egypt had employed me to suppress the slave trade of the Nile, a
government expedition had been intrusted to the command of one of the
most notorious slave-hunters.
I at once perceived that not only was my expedition unpopular, but that
it would be seriously opposed by all parties. The troops had been
quartered for some months at Khartoum; during this time the officers had
been intimate with the principal slave-traders of the country. All were
Mohammedans--thus a coalition would be natural against a Christian who
commanded an expedition avowedly to annihilate the slave trade upon
which Khartoum subsisted.
It was a "house divided against itself;" the Khedive in the north issued
orders that would be neutralized in the distant south by his own
authorities.
As in the United States of America the opinion of the South upon the
question of emancipation was opposed to that of the North,--the
opposition in Soudan was openly avowed to the reform believed to have
been suggested to the Khedive by England.
The season was already far advanced. There is no weapon so fatal as
delay in the hands of Egyptians. I knew the intentions of the
authorities were to procrastinate until the departure of the expedition
would become impossible. It was necessary to insist upon the immediate
purchase of vessels which should have been prepared months before.
None of the steamers from Cairo had passed the cataracts. The fifteen
large sloops upon which I had depended for the transport of camels had
actually given up the attempt and returned to Cairo. Only the smaller
vessels had mounted the cataracts, and they could not arrive at Khartoum
for some months.
The first division, consisting of all merchandise that I had sent from
Cairo, had arrived in Khartoum under the charge of a Syrian to whom I
had given the command. I heard that Mr. Higginbotham, accompanied by Dr.
Gedge and the English party, together with all the Egyptian mechanics,
was on his way across the desert in charge of the steamers and
machinery, carried by some thousand camels. The third division, brought
up by Mr. Marcopolo, arrived from Souakim a few days later than
ourselves, thus every arrangement that had been intrusted to my own
officers was well executed.
After some pressure, the governor began to purchase the vessels. It may
be imagined that a sudden necessity gave a welcome opportunity to
certain officials. Old vessels were purchased at the price of new, and
the government agent received a bribe from the owners to pass the
vessels on survey. We were now fitting out under difficulties, and
working at a task that should have been accomplished months before.
Sailcloth was scarce; hempen ropes were rarities in Khartoum, where the
wretched cordage was usually obtained from the leaves of the date-palm.
The highest prices were paid for everything; thus a prearranged delay
caused an immense expense for the expedition. I studiously avoided any
purchases personally, but simply gave the necessary instructions to be
executed by the governor. It is only fair to admit that he now worked
hard, and took great interest in the outfit of the flotilla. This
governor-general, Djiaffer Pacha, had formerly shown me much kindness on
my arrival at Souakim, during my first journey in Africa. I had
therefore reckoned upon him as a friend; but no personal considerations
could palliate the secret hatred to the object of the expedition.
From morning till night I was occupied in pushing on the work; in this I
was ably assisted by Lieutenant J. A. Baker, R.N., whose professional
experience was of much service. A new spirit seemed to move in Khartoum;
hundreds of men were at work; a row of masts and yards rose up before
the government house; and in a few weeks we had thirty-three vessels of
fifty or sixty tons each, caulked, rigged, and ready for the voyage of
1,450 miles to Gondokoro.
If the same energy had been shown some months ago, I should have found a
fleet of fifty ships awaiting me. I had lost a month at Khartoum at a
season when every day was precious.
I reviewed the troops, about 1,400 infantry, and two batteries of
artillery. The men were in fine condition, but I had no means of
transport for the entire force. I therefore instructed Djiaffer Pacha to
continue his exertions in preparing vessels, so that on Dr.
Higginbotham's arrival he might follow with the remaining detachment.
I reviewed the irregular cavalry, about 250 horse. These were certainly
VERY irregular. Each man was horsed and armed according to his
individual notion of a trooper's requirements. There were lank,
half-starved horses; round short horses; very small ponies; horses that
were all legs; others that were all heads; horses that had been groomed;
horses that had never gone through that operation. The saddles and
bridles were only fit for an old curiosity shop. There were some with
faded strips of gold and silver lace adhering here and there; others
that resembled the horse in skeleton appearance, which had been
strengthened by strips of raw crocodile skin. The unseemly huge
shovel-stirrups were rusty; the bits were filthy. Some of the men had
swords and pistols; others had short blunderbusses with brass barrels;
many had guns of various patterns, from the long old-fashioned Arab to
the commonest double-barrelled French gun that was imported. The
costumes varied in a like manner to the arms and animals.
Having formed in line, they now executed a brilliant charge at a
supposed enemy, and performed many feats of valour in dense clouds of
dust, and having quickly got into inconceivable confusion, they at
length rallied and returned to their original position.
I complimented their officer;--and having asked the governor if these
brave troops represented my cavalry force, and being assured of the
fact, I dismissed them; and requested Djiaffer Pacha to inform them that
"I regretted the want of transport would not permit me the advantage of
their services. `Inshallah!' (Please God!) at some future time," &c.,
&c.
I thus got rid of my cavalry, which I never wished to see again. I had
twenty-one good horses that I had brought from Cairo, and these together
with the horses belonging to the various officers were as much as we
could convey.
The flotilla was ready for the voyage. We had engaged sailors with the
greatest difficulty, as a general stampede of boatmen had taken place.
Every one ran from Khartoum to avoid the expedition.
This was a dodge of the slave-traders, who had incited the people to
escape from any connection with such an enterprise. It was supposed that
without boatmen we should be unable to start.
The police authorities were employed, and by degrees the necessary crews
were secured,--all unwilling, and composed of the worst material.
I had taken the precaution of selecting from the two regiments a
body-guard of forty-six men. Their numbers were equal black and white,
as I considered this arrangement might excite an esprit de corps, and
would in the event of discontent prevent a coalition.
The men having been well chosen were fine examples of physique, and
being armed with the snider rifle and carefully drilled, such a body of
picked troops would form a nucleus for further development, and might
become a dependable support in any emergency. This corps was commanded
by an excellent officer, my aide-de-camp, Lieut.-Colonel Abd-el-Kader,
but owing to the peculiar light-fingered character of the men, I gave it
the name of "The Forty Thieves."
Eventually the corps became a model of morality, and was distinguished
for valour and fidelity throughout the expedition.
Six months' rations were on board for all hands, in addition to the
general stores of corn, and cases, bales, &c., innumerable.
On the 8th February, 1870, the bugles announced the departure. The
troops hurried on board their respective transports according to the
numbers painted on their sides and sails. The official parting was
accomplished. I had had to embrace the governor, then a black pacha, a
rara avis in terris, and a whole host of beys, concluding the affecting
ceremony with a very fat colonel whom my arms could not properly
encircle.
A couple of battalions lined the shore; the guns fired the usual salute
as we started on our voyage; the flotilla, composed of two steamers,
respectively of thirty-two and twenty-four horsepower, and thirty-one
sailing vessels, with a military force of about 800 men, got away in
tolerable order. The powerful current of the Blue Nile quickly swept us
past Khartoum, and having rounded the point, we steamed up the grand
White Nile. The wind blew very strong from the north, thus the entire
fleet kept pace with the steamers, one of which was towing my diahbeeah,
and the other that of the colonel, Raouf Bey. Thank God we were off;
thus all intrigues were left behind, and the future would be under my
own command.
On reference to my journal, I find the following entry upon 8th
February, 1870:--
"Mr. Higginbotham, who has safely arrived at Berber with the steel
steamers in sections for the Albert N'yanza, will, I trust, be provided
with vessels at Khartoum, according to my orders, so as to follow me to
Gondokoro with supplies, and about 350 troops with four guns.
"My original programme--agreed to by his Highness the Khedive, who
ordered the execution of my orders by the authorities--arranged that
six steamers, fifteen sloops, and fifteen diahbeeahs, should leave Cairo
on 10th June, to ascend the cataracts to Khartoum, at which place
Djiaffer Pacha was to prepare three steamers and twenty-five vessels to
convey 1,650 troops, together with transport animals and supplies.
"The usual Egyptian delays have entirely thwarted my plans. No vessels
have arrived from Cairo, as they only started on 29th August. Thus,
rather than turn back, I start with a mutilated expedition, without a
SINGLE TRANSPORT ANIMAL."
Having minutely described the White Nile in a former work, "The Albert
N'yanza," I shall not repeat the description. In 103 hours and ten
minutes' steaming we reached Fashoda, the government station in the
Shillook country, N. lat. 9 degrees 52 minutes, 618 miles by river
from Khartoum.
This town had been fortified by a wall and flanking towers since I had
last visited the White Nile, and it was garrisoned by a regiment of
Egyptian soldiers. Ali Bey, the governor, was a remarkably handsome old
man, a Kurd. He assured me that the Shillook country was in excellent
order; and that according to the instructions received from the Khedive
he had exerted himself against the slave trade, so that it was
impossible for vessels to pass the station.
Fashoda was well situated for this purpose, as it completely dominated
the river; but I much doubted my friend's veracity.
Having taken on board a month's rations for all hands, we started; and,
with a strong breeze in our favour, we reached the Sobat junction on
16th February, at 12.30 p.m.
There we took in fresh water, as that of the Sobat is superior to the
White Nile. At this season the river was about eight feet below the
level of the bank. The water of the Sobat is yellowish, and it colours
that of the White Nile for a great distance. By dead reckoning I made
the Sobat junction 684 miles by river from Khartoum.
When I saw the Sobat, in the first week of January 1863, it was
bank-full. The current is very powerful, and when I sounded in various
places during my former voyage, I found a depth of twenty-six to
twenty-eight feet. The volume of water brought to the Nile by this river
is immense, and the power of the stream is so superior to that of the
White Nile, that as it arrives at right angles, the waters of the Nile
are banked up. The yellow water of the Sobat forms a distinct line as it
cuts through the clear water of the main river, and the floating rafts
of vegetation brought down by the White Nile, instead of continuing
their voyage, are headed back, and remain helplessly in the backwater.
The sources of the Sobat are still a mystery; but there can be no doubt
that the principal volume must be water of mountain origin, as it is
coloured by earthy matter, and is quite unlike the marsh water of the
White Nile. The expeditions of the slave-hunters have ascended the
river as far as it is navigable. At that point seven different streams
converge into one channel, which forms the great river Sobat. It is my
opinion that some of these streams are torrents from the Galla country,
while others are the continuation of those southern rivers which have
lately been crossed by the slave-hunters between the second and third
degrees of N. latitude.
The White Nile is a grand river between the Sobat junction and Khartoum,
and after passing to the south of the great affluent the difference in
the character is quickly perceived. We now enter upon the region of
immense flats and boundless marshes, through which the river winds in a
labyrinth-like course for about 750 miles to Gondokoro.
Having left the Sobat, we arrived at the junction of the Bahr Giraffe,
thirty-eight miles distant, at 11 a.m. on 17th February. We turned into
the river, and waited for the arrival of the fleet.
The Bahr Giraffe was to be our new passage instead of the original White
Nile. That river, which had become so curiously obstructed by masses of
vegetation that had formed a solid dam, already described by me in "The
Albert N'yanza," had been entirely neglected by the Egyptian
authorities. In consequence of this neglect an extraordinary change had
taken place. The immense number of floating islands which are constantly
passing down the stream of the White Nile had no exit, thus they were
sucked under the original obstruction by the force of the stream, which
passed through some mysterious channel, until the subterranean passage
became choked with a wondrous accumulation of vegetable matter. The
entire river became a marsh, beneath which, by the great pressure of
water, the stream oozed through innumerable small channels. In fact, the
White Nile had disappeared. A vessel arriving from Khartoum in her
passage to Gondokoro would find, after passing through a broad river of
clear water, that her bow would suddenly strike against a bank of solid
compressed vegetation--this was the natural dam that had been formed to
an unknown extent: the river ceased to exist.
It may readily be imagined that a dense spongy mass which completely
closed the river would act as a filter: thus, as the water charged with
muddy particles arrived at the dam where the stream was suddenly
checked, it would deposit all impurities as it oozed and percolated
slowly through the tangled but compressed mass of vegetation. This
deposit quickly created mud-banks and shoals, which effectually blocked
the original bed of the river. The reedy vegetation of the country
immediately took root upon these favourable conditions, and the rapid
growth in a tropical climate may be imagined. That which had been the
river bed was converted into a solid marsh.
This terrible accumulation had been increasing for five or six years,
therefore it is impossible to ascertain or even to speculate upon the
distance to which it might extend. The slave-traders had been obliged to
seek another rout, which they had found via the Bahr Giraffe, which
river had proved to be merely a branch of the White Nile, as I had
suggested in my former work, and not an independent river.
I was rather anxious about this new route, as I had heard conflicting
accounts in Khartoum concerning the possibility of navigating such large
vessels as the steamers of thirty-two horse-power and a hundred feet
length of deck. I was provided with guides who professed to be
thoroughly acquainted with the river; these people were captains of
trading vessels, who had made the voyage frequently.
On 18th February, at 10 A.M., the rear vessels of the fleet arrived, and
at 11.40 A.M., the steamers worked up against the strong current
independently. Towing was difficult, owing to the sharp turns of the
river. The Bahr Giraffe was about seventy yards in width, and at this
season the banks were high and dry. Throughout the voyage on the White
Nile we had had excellent wild-fowl shooting whenever we had halted to
cut fuel for the steamers. One afternoon I killed a hippopotamus, two
crocodiles, and two pelicans, with the rifle. At the mouth of the Bahr
Giraffe I bagged twenty-two ducks at a right and left shot with a No.
10-shot gun.
As the fleet now slowly sailed against the strong, current of the Bahr
Giraffe, I walked along the hank with Lieutenant Baker, and shot ten of
the large francolin partridge, which in this dry season were very
numerous. The country was as usual flat, but bearing due south of the
Bahr Giraffe junction, about twelve miles distant, is a low granite
hill, partially covered with trees; this is the first of four similar
low hills that are the only rising points above the vast prairie of flat
plain.
As we were walking along the bank I perceived an animal ascending from
the river, about two hundred yards distant, where it had evidently been
drinking: we immediately endeavoured to cut off its retreat, when it
suddenly emerged from the grass and discovered a fine lion with large
shaggy mane. The king of beasts, as usual, would not stand to show fight
in the open, but bounded off in the direction of the rocky hills.
It will be necessary to give a few extracts from my journal to convey an
exact idea of the Bahr Giraffe. The river was very deep, averaging about
nineteen feet, and it flowed in a winding course, through a perfectly
flat country of prairie, diversified with forest all of which, although
now dry, had the appearance of being flooded during the rainy season:--
"February 23.--Steamed from 6 A.M. till 7 P.M. Vast treeless marshes in
wet season--now teeming with waterfowl: say fifty miles accomplished
to-day through the ever-winding river. The wood from the last forest is
inferior, and we have only sufficient fuel for five hours left upon the
steamer. The diahbeeah in tow carries about twenty hours' fuel: thus,
should we not arrive at some forest in twenty-five hours, we shall be
helpless.
"The river was exceedingly narrow about fifteen miles from our starting
point this morning. The stream was strong but deep, flowing through the
usual tangled grass, but divided into numerous small channels and
backwaters that render the navigation difficult.
"In this spot the river is quite bank-full, and the scattered native
villages in the distance are in swamps. The innumerable high white
ant-hills are the only dry spots.
"February 24.--Started at 6 A.M. Everybody eaten up by mosquitoes. At 9
A.M. the steamer smashed her starboard paddle: the whole day occupied in
repairing. Saw a bull elephant in the marshes at a distance. Horrible
treeless swamps swarming with mosquitoes.
"February 25.--Started at 7 A.M. At 10 A.M. arrived at a very narrow and
shallow portion of this chaotic river completely choked by drift
vegetation. All hands worked hard to clear a passage through this
obstruction until 2.30, when we passed ahead. At 4 P.M. we arrived at a
similar obstacle; the water very shallow; and to-morrow we shall have to
cut a passage through the high grass, beneath which there is deeper
water. I ordered fifty swords to be sharpened for the work. We counted
seventy elephants in the distance, but there is no possibility of
reaching them through the immense area, of floating vegetation.
"February 26.--Hard at work with forty men cutting a canal about 150
yards long through the dense mass of compressed vegetation.
"February 27.--Working hard at canal. The fleet has not arrived; thus we
are short-handed.
"February 28.--The canal progresses, the men having worked well. It is a
curious collection of trash that seriously impedes navigation. The grass
resembles sugar-canes; this grows from twenty to thirty feet in length,
and throws out roots at every joint; thus, when matted together, its
roots still increase, and render the mass a complete tangle. During the
wet season the rush of water tears off large rafts of this floating
water-grass, which accumulate in any favourable locality. The difficulty
of clearing a passage is extreme. After cutting out a large mass with
swords, a rope is made fast, and the raft is towed out by hauling with
thirty or forty men until it is detached and floated down the stream.
Yesterday I cut a narrow channel from above stream in the hope that the
rush of water would loosen the mass of vegetation. After much labour, at
12.30 p.m. the whole obstruction appeared to heave. There was soon no
doubt that it was moving, and suddenly the entire dam broke up. Immense
masses were carried away by the rush of water and floated down the
river; these will, I fear, cause an obstruction lower down the stream.
"We got up steam, served out grog to all the men, and started at 2 P.M.
In half-an-hour's steaming we arrived at another block vegetation. In
one hour and three-quarters we cleared a passage, and almost immediately
afterwards we arrived at the first piece of dry ground that we have seen
for days. This piece of firm land was a few feet higher than the maximum
rise of the river, and afforded about half an acre. We stopped for the
night.
"March 1.--Started at 6.30 A.M., the river narrowing immediately, and
after a run of half a mile we found ourselves caught in a trap. The
river, although fourteen feet deep, had entirely disappeared in a
boundless sea of high grass, which resembled sugar-canes. There was no
possibility of progress. I returned to our halting-place of last night
in a small rowing-boat, and examined it thoroughly. I found marks of
occupation by the slave-traders, about three months old. Among the
vestiges were the remains of fires, a piece of a lucifer-match box, a
number of cartridge cases--they had been fired--and a piece of raw hide
pierced with bullets, that had evidently been used as a target.
"I shot two geese and five plover, and returned to our vessel. My
opinion is that the slave-hunters have made a razzia inland from this
spot, but that our guide, Bedawi, has led us into a wrong channel.
"I attempted to seek a passage ahead, but it was quite impossible for
the smallest rowing boat to penetrate the dense vegetation.
"An advance being impossible, I ordered the steamer and two diahbeeahs
to return down the river about eighty miles to our old wooding-place at
the last forest, as we are nearly out of fuel. We thus lose time and
trouble, but there is no help for it. For some days there has been no
wind, except uncertain breaths from the south. Unless a change shall
take place, I have no idea how the fleet will be able to come up against
the stream.
"March 2.--At 6.30 a.m. we got under way and ran down stream at eight
miles an hour towards our old wooding-place. Saw a few buffaloes. At 1
p.m. we passed on left bank a branch of the river. At 3.30 sighted the
tall yards of the fleet in the distance. At 4.30 we arrived at the
extreme southern limit of the forest, and met Raouf Bey with the steamer
and twenty-five vessels, with a good supply of wood. The troops were in
good health, but one unfortunate man had been carried off by a crocodile
while sitting on the vessel with his legs hanging over the side.
"March 3.--Filling up with wood from the forest.
"March 4.--Sent the steamer back to the station of Kutchuk Ali, the
trader, to procure some cattle for the troops. In this neighbourhood
there is dry land with many villages, but the entire country has been
pillaged by Kutchuk Ali's people--the natives murdered, the women
carried off, &c.
"Raouf Bey counted the bodies of eighteen natives who had been shot near
the trader's camp. Yesterday I went to a native village, and made
friends with the people, some of whom came down to our boats; they
complained bitterly that they were subject to pillage and massacre by
the traders. These so-called traders are the people of Kutchuk Ali, THE
OFFICER EMPLOYED BY THE GOVENOR-GENERAL OF THE SOUDAN to command his
expedition to the Bahr Gazal!
"Filled up with a large supply of wood ready to start tomorrow.
"March 5.--Great good fortune! A fine north wind for the first time
during many days. All the vessels sailing well. We started at 7 a.m. Saw
a Baleniceps Rex[*]; this is the second of these rare birds that I have
seen.
[*Footnote: The whale-headed stork, or Baleniceps Rex, is only met with
in the immense swamps of the White Nile. This bird feeds generally upon
water shellfish, for which nature has provided a most powerful beak
armed with a hook at the extremity.)
"At 1 p.m., as we were steaming easily, I happened to be asleep on the
poop-deck, when I was suddenly awakened by a shock, succeeded almost
immediately by the cry, `The ship's sinking!' A hippopotamus had charged
the steamer from the bottom, and had smashed several floats off her
starboard paddle. A few seconds later he charged our diahbeeah, and
striking her bottom about ten feet from the bow, he cut two holes
through the iron plates with his tusks. There was no time to lose, as
the water was rushing in with great force. Fortunately, in this land of
marsh and floating grass, there were a few feet of tolerably firm ground
rising from the deep water. Running alongside, all hands were hard at
work discharging cargo with great rapidity, and baling out with every
conceivable utensil, until we obtained assistance from the steamer,
whose large hand pump and numerous buckets at length so far overcame the
rush of water, that we could discover the leaks.
"We now found two clean holes punched through the iron as though driven
by a sharp pickaxe. Some hours were occupied in repairing the damage by
plastering white lead upon some thick felt; this was placed over the
holes, and small pieces of plank being laid over the felt, they were
secured by an upright piece of timber tightened with wedges from a
cross-beam. The leaks were thus effectually and permanently stopped.
"By sunset all was completed and the vessel reloaded; but I sent
twenty-eight boxes of snider ammunition on board the tender. This
miserable wood tender has sprung her yard so that she cannot carry sail.
The day was entirely lost together with a fine north wind.
"March, 6.--Brisk wind from the north. Started at 5.45 a.m., but at 7
a.m. something happened to the engine, and the steamer stopped until
eight. After frequent stoppages, owing to the sharp bends in the narrow
river, we arrived at the spot where we had formerly opened the dam;
there the current ran like a rapid.
"March 7.--Much difficulty in ascending the river, but upon arrival at
the dry ground (called the 'dubba'), we found the No. 8 steamer and the
whole fleet assembled, with the exception of six that are in sight.
"March 8.--The other vessels arrived; I have thus thirty-four sail,
including the two steamers. The entire country is swamp, covered with
immensely high water-grass, beneath which the depth is considerable. The
reputed main channel of the river is supposed to come from S.W., this is
only denoted by a stream three or four feet broad, concealed by high
grass, and in places choked by the Pistia Stratiotes. These surface
plants, which resemble floating cabbages with fine thready roots, like a
human beard of sixteen inches in length, form dense masses which are
very difficult to clear
"Our guides are useless, as we cannot depend upon their contradictory
statements. We are in a deplorable position--the whole fleet in a
cul-de-sac; the river has disappeared; an unknown distance of apparently
boundless marsh lies before us; there is no wood, and there is no
possibility of moving without cutting a channel.
"I have ordered thirty vessels to form in line, single file, and to cut
a canal.
"March. 9.--The men worked famously, but I much fear they will be laid
up with fever if kept at such an unhealthy task. To-day a force of 700
men cut about a mile and a half. They are obliged to slash through with
swords and knives, and then to pull out the greater portion of the grass
and vegetable trash; this is piled like artificial banks on either side
upon the thick floating surface of vegetation. I took a small boat and
pushed on for a mile and a half. I found a very narrow stream, like a
small brook, which gave hopes of lighter labour for to-morrow. I shall
therefore try to force the steamer through. Thirty-two men reported on
the sick list this evening.
"March 10.--A fine north wind for about half an hour, when it suddenly
chopped round to the S.E. We cut on far ahead, so that I was able to
push on the steamers and the whole fleet for a distance of about five
miles. I had a touch of fever.
"March 11.--Frightful stinking morass. All stopped at a black muddy pond
in the swamp. The river is altogether lost. We have to cut a passage
through the morass. Hard work throughout the day. One soldier died of
sunstroke. No ground in which to bury him.
"It is a curious but most painful fact that the entire White Nile has
ceased to be a navigable river. The boundless plains of marsh are formed
of floating rafts of vegetation compressed into firm masses by the
pressure of water during floods. So serious is this obstacle to
navigation, that unless a new channel can be discovered, or the original
Nile be reopened, the centre of Africa will be entirely shut out from
communication, and all my projects for the improvement of the country
will be ruined by this extraordinary impediment.
"March 12.--I think I can trace by telescope the fringe of tall papyrus
rush that should be the border of the White Nile; but this may be a
delusion. The wind is S.W., dead against us. Many men are sick owing to
the daily work of clearing a channel through the poisonous marsh. This
is the Mahommedan festival of the Hadj, therefore there is little work
to-day.
"March 13.--Measured 460 yards of apparently firm marsh, through which
we plumbed the depth by long poles thrust to the bottom.
"Flowing water being found beneath, I ordered the entire force to turn
out and cut a channel, which I myself superintended in the advance boat.
"By 6 p.m. the canal was completed, and the wind having come round to
the north, we sailed through the channel and entered a fine lake about
half a mile wide, followed by the whole fleet with bugles and drums
sounding the advance, the troops vainly hoping that their work was over.
The steamers are about a mile behind, and I have ordered their paddles
to be dismounted to enable them to be towed through the high grass in
the narrow channel.
"March 14.--At 6 a.m. I started and surveyed the lake in a small rowing
boat, and found it entirely shut in and separated from another small
lake by a mass of dense rotten vegetation about eighty yards in width. I
called all hands, and cleared it in fifty-five minutes sufficiently to
allow the fleet to pass through. Upon an examination of the next lake, I
found, to my intense disappointment, that not only was it closed in, but
there was no outlet visible even from the mast-head. Not a drop of water
was to be seen ahead, and the entire country was a perfect chaos, where
the spirit of God apparently had not yet moved upon the waters. There
was neither earth nor clear water, nor any solid resting-place for a
human foot. Now and then a solitary bittern rose from the marsh, but,
beyond a few water-rails, there were no other birds. The grass was
swarming with snakes, and also with poisonous ants that attacked the
men, and greatly interfered with the work.
"It is easier to clear a passage through the green grass than through
the rotten vegetation. The former can be rolled in heaps so as to form
banks, it is then secured by tying it to the strong grass growing behind
it; the rotten stuff has no adherence, and a channel closes up almost as
fast as it is made, thus our labour does no permanent good. I am in
great anxiety about Mr. Higginbotham; it will be impossible for him to
proceed by this route, should he arrive with a comparatively small force
and heavily-laden vessels.
"As the channel closes so rapidly, I must wait until the steamers can
form a compact line with the fleet.
"The black troops have more spirit than the Egyptians, but they are not
so useful in clearing channels, as they are bad swimmers. They
discovered to-day a muddy spot where they had a great hunt for fish, and
succeeded in capturing with their hands about 500 pounds weight of the
Prolypterus, some of which were above four pounds. We caught for
ourselves a number of very delicious boulti (Perca Nilotica) with a
casting-net.
"March 15.--Having probed the marsh with long poles, I found deep water
beneath, which denoted the course of the sub-vegetal stream. All hands
at work, and by the evening we had cut a channel 300 yards in length.
The marsh swarms with snakes, one of which managed to enter the cabin
window of the diahbeeah. The two steamers, now far astern, have become
choked by a general break up and alteration of their portion of the
world. The small lake in which I left them is no longer open water, but
has become a dense maps of compressed vegetable rafts, in which the
steamers are jammed as though frozen in an ice-drift in the Arctic
regions! There is much work required to clear them. The only chance of
progress will be to keep the entire fleet in compact line so as to push
through a new channel as quickly as it is made. I shall send back the
wood tender, if possible, from this spot with a letter to stop Mr.
Higginbotham should he be south of the Sobat, as it will be impossible
for him to proceed until next season. Many of the men are sick with
fever, and if this horrible country should continue, they will all
sicken.
"March 16.--I went back in a rowing boat, accompanied by Lieutenant
Baker, to the two steamers which we found stuck fast in the drift rafts,
that had closed in upon then. Many men are sick--all are dispirited; and
they worked badly. Having worked all day, we returned at 6.30 p.m., to
my diahbeeah, having the good fortune to shoot seven ducks by a family
shot upon a mud bank on the way home.
"I found that the main body under the colonel, Raouf Bey, had completed
the channel about 900 yards long to lake No. 3. I ordered sail to be
made immediately, and after five hours' hard work, as the channel was
already beginning to close, we arrived in the open lake at 11.15 p.m.,
in which we found the fleet at anchor.
"March 17.--The lake is about 2 1/2 miles long, and varies from 150 to
300 yards in width, with a mean depth of ten feet. I sent men ahead in
the boat to explore the exit; they now report it to be closed by a small
dam, after which we shall enter another lake. Thunder and clouds
threatening in the southeast.
"About half-an-hour before sunset I observed the head of a hippopotamus
emerge from the bank of high grass that fringed the lake. My troops had
no meat--thus I would not lose the opportunity of procuring, if
possible, a supply of hippopotamus beef. I took a Reilly No. 8
breechloader, and started in the little dingy belonging to the
diahbeeah. Having paddled quietly along the edge of the grass for a
couple of hundred yards, I arrived near the spot from which the
hippopotamus had emerged.
"It is the general habit of the hippopotami in these marsh districts to
lie in the high grass swamps during the day, and to swim or amuse
themselves in the open water at sunset.
"I had not waited long before I heard a snort, and I perceived the
hippopotamus had risen to the surface about fifty yards from me. This
distance was a little too great for the accurate firing necessary to
reach the brain, especially when the shot must be taken from a boat, in
which there is always some movement. I therefore allowed the animal to
disappear, after which I immediately ordered the boat forward, to remain
exactly over the spot where he had sunk. A few minutes elapsed, when the
great ugly head of the hippopotamus appeared about thirty paces from the
boat, and having blown the water from his nostrils, and snorted loudly,
he turned round and seemed astonished to find the solitary little boat
so near him. Telling the two boatmen to sit perfectly quiet, so as to
allow a good sight, I aimed just below the eye, and fired a heavy shell,
which contained a bursting charge of three drachms of fine-grained
powder. The head disappeared. A little smoke hung over the water, and I
could not observe other effects. The lake was deep, and after vain
sounding for the body with a boathook, I returned to the diahbeeah just
as it became dark.
"March 18.--A heavy shower of rain fell, which lasted for an hour and a
half. When the rain ceased, the day continued cloudy with variable wind.
The body of the hippopotamus was discovered at daybreak floating near
us, therefore all hands turned out to cut him up, delighted at the idea
of fresh meat. There was about an acre of high and dry ground that
bordered the marsh in one spot; to this the carcase of the hippopotamus
was towed. I was anxious to observe the effects of the explosive shell,
as it was an invention of my own that had been manufactured by Mr.
Reilly, [*] the gunmaker, of London. This shell was composed of
iron, covered with lead. The interior was a cast-iron bottle (similar in
shape to a stoneware Seltzer water bottle); the neck formed a nipple to
receive a percussion-cap. The entire bottle was concealed by a leaden
coating, which was cast in a mould to fit a No. 8, or two-ounce rifle.
The iron bottle contained three drachms of the strongest gunpowder, and
a simple cap pressed down upon the nipple prepared the shell for
service.
[*Footnote: Mr. Reilly, of 502 New Oxford Street, has been most
successful in heavy rifles, with which he has supplied me in
both my African expeditions.]
"On an examination of the head of the hippopotamus, I found that the
shell had struck exactly beneath the eye, where the bone plate is thin.
It had traversed the skull, and had apparently exploded in the brain, as
it had entirely carried away the massive bone that formed the back of
the skull. The velocity of the projectile had carried the fragments of
the shell onwards after the explosion, and had formed a sort of tunnel
which was blackened with burnt powder for a considerable distance along
the flesh of the neck. I was quite satisfied with my explosive shell.
"The hippopotamus having been divided among the men, I sent Raouf Bey
with a large force to assist the steamers, which still remain fixed in
the same spot.
"At 2 p.m. it poured with rain until 9 p.m. Everything is soaking; and I
have great anxiety about our large stores of corn.
"March 19.--Fine day, but all cargo, stores, &c., are wet. The miserable
vessels of the Soudan are without decks, thus one heavy shower creates
much damage. The men are busy drying their clothes, &c. Two soldiers
died. Steamers far astern in the sudd, regularly fixed.
"March 20.--A boy died. I sent fresh men to the assistance of the
steamers, which have to be literally dug out.
"March 21.--Yesterday as the men were digging out the steamers, which
had become blocked by the floating rafts, they felt something struggling
beneath their feet. They immediately scrambled away in time to avoid the
large head of a crocodile that broke its way through the tangled mass in
which it had been jammed and held prisoner by the rafts. The black
soldiers, armed with swords and bill-hooks, immediately attacked the
crocodile, who, although freed from imprisonment, had not exactly fallen
into the hands of the Royal Humane Society. He was quickly despatched,
and that evening his flesh gladdened the cooking pots of the Soudani
regiment.
"I was amused with the account of this adventure given by various
officers who were eye-witnesses. One stated in reply to my question as
to the length of the animal, `Well, sir, I should not like to
exaggerate, but I should say it was forty-five feet long from snout to
tail!' Another witness declared it to be at least twenty feet; but by
rigid cross-examination I came to the conclusion that it did not exceed
ten.
"The steamers and tender, having been released, arrived this morning. At
1 p.m. we started with a light air from the northeast, and travelled
till 3.30 p.m. along the lake, which narrowed to the dimensions of a
moderate river. We at length arrived at a sudd which the advance boats
had cleared for about sixty yards. Having emerged, we were introduced to
a deep but extremely narrow channel flowing through the usual enormous
grass.
"The whole fleet ranged in single line to widen the passage. We are now
about twelve miles from the dubba, or raised dry ground, near to which
we first commenced clearing. We have actually cut away about six miles
of vegetation. No dependence whatever can be placed upon the guides: no
place answers to their descriptions. We have now been hard at work for
thirteen days with a thousand men, during which time we have travelled
only twelve miles!
"March 22.--Wind S.W.--foul. The people are all lazy and despairing.
Cleared a sudd. I explored ahead in a small boat. As usual, the country
is a succession of sudds and small open patches of water. The work is
frightful, and great numbers of my men are laid down with fever; thus my
force is physically diminished daily, while morally the men are
heart-broken. Another soldier died; but there is no dry spot to bury
him. We live in a world of swamp and slush. Lieutenant Baker shot a
Baleniceps Rex. This day we opened about 600 yards.
"March 23.--We have been throughout the day employed in tugging the
vessels through the channel. The Egyptians have quite lost heart. The
Soudanis are far more valuable as soldiers; none of them are ill, and
they work with a good will. I serve them out a glass of grog in the
evening. The fanatical fellahs will not touch spirits, thus they succumb
to fever and nervousness when exhausted by the chill occasioned by
working throughout the day in mud and water.
"March 24.--Wind fresh from the S.W. All the vessels assembled last
evening in a small lake. Before us there is as usual simply a narrow
stream closed in by vegetation. I observed marks of the traders' parties
having broken through a few months ago. These people travel without
merchandise, but with a large force of men: thus their vessels are of
light draught of water. My steamers and many of the boats require four
feet six inches. Every vessel is heavily laden, thus they are difficult
to manage unless in open and deep water.
"There is to-day a forest on the east, about two miles distant, beyond
the swamp. After a hard day's work we made about 1,400 yards.
"March 25.--Wind fair and fresh from the N.E. This helped us to make
about a mile through the narrow channel, hemmed in by thick and high
grass. Another soldier died. As usual, this poor fellow was an
artilleryman. These men came direct from Cairo with their guns, and not
being acclimatized, they cannot resist the fever. The Egyptian troops
give in and lose all heart; but there is much allowance to be made for
them, as it is a fearful country, and far beyond my worst experience.
There is no apparent break to the boundless marsh before and behind us,
this is about fifteen miles wide, as forest trees and the tall dolape
palms can sometimes be distinguished upon the horizon.
"What the unfortunate Higginbotham will do I cannot conceive, as there
is no possibility of communicating with him, and he will get into the
rainy season.
"Another soldier died this evening; he was an excellent man, who had
been employed at the arsenal at Cairo. His friend and bosom companion
was a fellow workman, and he was so grieved at the loss that he declared
he should not live beyond a few days. There was no dry ground in which
to dig a grave; it was therefore necessary to cut a hole in the base of
a white ant-hill, as these Babel-like towers were the only dry spots
that rose above the flood.
"This death is the sixth within the last few days, exclusive of one boy.
I think our black doctor assists them in departing from this life, as
they die very suddenly when he attends them. Like Dr. Sangrado, he is
very fond of the lancet, which is usually fatal in this climate. We made
about half a mile today.
"March 26.--Wind fresh from the S.E. The ditch is completely blocked up
with vegetation: thus we made only 250 yards. Before us, as usual, is
the hopeless sea of high grass, along which is a dark streak which marks
the course of the ditch through which we slowly clear a passage. How
many days or months we may require to reach the White Nile is a problem.
One hundred and fifty men are on the sick list; nearly all of them are
fellahs. Upon my own diahbeeah six soldiers out of ten are down with
fever, in addition to two of the sailors. I gave them all a shock with
the magnetic battery, which appeared to have a wonderful effect; one
fellow, who had been groaning with severe pains in his back and limbs,
declared that he was instantly relieved. I made a good shot with the
Dutchman at a Baleniceps Rex, at a distance of upwards of 200 yards.
"There is no rest by night or day for our people, who are preyed upon by
clouds of mosquitoes, which attack like bulldogs.
"March 27.--All hands hard at work clearing the ditch. Wind S.E.--fresh.
The diahbeeah, as usual, leads the way, followed by No. 10 steamer, and
the whole fleet in close line. Most of the men suffer from headache;
this is owing to the absurd covering, the fez, or tarboosh, which is no
protection against the sun.
"In the evening I took a small boat, and in forty-one minutes' poling
and tugging through the narrow channel, I succeeded in reaching a long
narrow lake resembling a river, about 110 yards wide. The mouth of our
effluent was, for a wonder, clear from obstruction; I returned with the
joyful news to the fleet after sunset.
"March 28.--At 7.30 a.m. all hands turned out to clear the channel to
the lake; this was about 500 yards long, and the diahbeeah, leading the
way, entered the lake at 11.30 a.m. Unfortunately a shallow channel near
the entrance prevented the steamers from entering, thus a passage had to
be dug in the tough clay beneath them. The wind strong from the south. I
am afraid the north wind has deserted us for the season.
"Having entered the lake, I went about a mile and a half ahead in my
diahbeeah, and anchored for the night in a broad and shallow portion of
the water, a forest being about a mile distant on the east bank: this
was a good sign of terra firma, but there was no dry spot upon which we
could land.
"The river winds to the S.E., and apparently then turns to the west. The
effluent through which we joined this lake or river meets it at right
angles, and the river continues its course to the N.N.W., as though it
were the main channel of a far more important stream than the horrible
ditch by which we arrived. The guide, however, assures me that it is
blocked up, and loses itself in boundless grass and reeds.
"In the evening I spied a hippopotamus which had just come out of the
high grass into the open river. It snorted loudly at the strange sight
of the handsomely-painted diahbeeah. I took the boat, and upon my near
approach it was foolish enough to swim towards us angrily. A shot from
the Reilly No. 8, with one of my explosive shells, created a lively
dance, as the hippopotamus received the message under the eye. Rolling
over and over, with the legs frequently in the air, it raised waves that
rocked my little boat and made shooting difficult; but upon a close
approach, taking good care to keep out of the reach of its struggles, I
gave it a quietus with a hardened spherical ball from the same rifle,
which passed right through the head. By sounding with the long
boat-hook, I found the body at the bottom in about ten feet of water. My
excellent captain of the diahbeeah, Faddul-Moolah, dived to the bottom,
and secured the leg of the hippopotamus by a rope. We towed it to the
diahbeeah, from the deck of which my wife had had a capital view of the
sport. This is a fine feast for the people. My explosive shell is
frightful in its effects.
"March 29.--Wind strong from the south; the steamer is not yet out of
difficulty. My men are busy cutting up the hippopotamus. I sent off the
iron boat with three quarters of the animal to the troops astern. During
the night a crocodile took away all the offal from the stern of the
diahbeeah. The weather is much cooler, owing to the south wind and the
clear space in which we are now anchored.
"March 30.-The river is now clear and unmistakable. We travelled about
ten miles by poling; this is the best day's work that we have made since
we entered this chaotic region. Lieutenant Baker came on board my
diahbeeah, having brought up the steamers.
"The country began to look more hopeful. A forest at a few miles'
distance on both the right and left bank of the river betokened dry
land. The river flowed between actual honest banks, which although only
a few inches above the water were positive boundaries. The flat plain
was covered with large white ant-hills, and the ground was evidently
firm in the distance, as we could distinguish a herd of antelopes.
"As we were quietly poling the diahbeeah against the sluggish stream, we
observed wild buffaloes that, at a distance of about 400 yards, appeared
to be close to the bank of the river. I accordingly stopped the
diahbeeah, and, accompanied by Lieutenant Baker, I approached them in
the small boat, rowed by two men. A fortunate bend of the river, and
several clumps of high rushes, concealed the boat until by a sudden turn
we came within sixty yards of two bull buffaloes. Having told Mr. Baker
to take the first shot, he sent a spherical No. 8 through the shoulder
of the nearest bull, which, after a few plunges, fell dead. The other,
startled at the shot, dashed off; at the same time he received a shell
from my rifle in the flank, and a shot from the left-hand barrel in the
rear. With these shots he went off about three hundred paces, and lay
down, as we thought, to die. I intended to stalk him from behind the
white ant-hills, but my sailors, in intense excitement, rushed forward,
supposing that his beef was their own, and although badly hit, he again
rose and cantered off till lost in high rushes.
"March 31.-As we proceeded, the banks became drier. The two steamers had
arrived during the night, and the whole fleet is coming up astern. The
river is now about fifty yards wide, but I am getting nervous about the
depth; the water is very shallow in some of the bends, and I fear there
will be great difficulty in getting through with the steamers and heavy
vessels. My diahbeeah, which is of iron, although roomy, is exceedingly
light, and only requires two feet three inches of water. We have been
fifty-one days from Khartoum. Never have I known so miserable a voyage.
Wind fresh from the south."