drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the
differential. Disconnect the radius rods and brake rods at the
outer ends of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two
halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove
the housing. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the
axle shaft out.
After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are
firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key
in proper position. When the car has been driven thirty days or
so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut
to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely
important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the
constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time
cause serious trouble.
[Illustration: The Ford Emergency Brake. (Cut No. 15)]
If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb,
or other accident, it is false economy to drive the car without
correcting the trouble, as tires, gears and all other parts will
suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities,
be straightened, but it is best to replace it.
The Ford Muffler
_Why is the Muffler necessary?_ _Answer No. 83_
The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe
would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for
the muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is
liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force
of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the
muffler with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction
is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping
gases, consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a
cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.
_How is the Muffler disconnected?_ _Answer No. 84_
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack
nut and remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame.
After the muffler has been disconnected it can be disassembled by
removing the nut at the rear end.
The Running Gear
_What care should the Running Gear have?_ _Answer No. 85_
In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication
(see chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front
and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every
moving part, such as the bushings in spring connections, spring
hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly
lubricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with
cotter pins in place. The spring clips, which attach the front
spring to the frame, should be inspected frequently to see that
everything is in perfect order.
_How is the Front Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 86_
Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed (see Answer No. 89),
disconnect steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod,
disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin
bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front spring.
To disconnect radius rod from axle, remove cotter-pinned nuts. To
remove radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball
joint and remove lower half of cap.
_In case of accident, how is the Front Axle straightened?_
_Answer No. 87_
Should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used
to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings,
as this will untemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If
convenient it would be better to return such parts to the dealer,
where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that
purpose. It is very essential that the wheels line up properly
(see Answer No. 90).
[Illustration: The Ford Spindle and Front Hub Assembly. (Cut No.
16)]
The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the
parts have been properly straightened, and excessive wear of the
front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.
_What about the Wheels?_ _Answer No. 88_
The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not
only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If
in spinning a front wheel a sharp click occurs now and then and
the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is
a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed,
otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A
wheel in perfect adjustment should, after spinning, come to rest
with the tire valve directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub
bearings is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive
friction, due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too tight. It
is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub
well filled with grease.
_How are the Wheels removed?_ _Answer No. 89_
Front wheels: Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew
castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can
then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to
see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle
from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of
stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right
on the opposite as you stand facing the car. Rear wheels: They
should not be removed unless absolutely necessary--in which case
proceed as above, then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from
the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing
rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible
and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should
be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in
place tightened up. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the
resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle
shaft.
_How does the setting of the Front Wheels differ from that of the
Rear Wheels?_ _Answer No. 90_
It will be observed that the front wheels are "dished;" that is,
the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet
side stresses with less rigid resistance--while the spokes of the
rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an
angle--that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front
wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms.
This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the
tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however,
"toe-in" at the front--at least not more than a quarter of an
inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter
are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels
should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will
be difficult and tire wear greatly increased. Adjustment can be
made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting
rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.
_What about installing Roller Bearing Cups?_ _Answer No. 91_
Whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups, either
in changing over from ball bearings to roller bearings or in
replacing worn cups, the work should be done by a Dealer or Garage
which has the necessary equipment for this work. In order to avoid
excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups be
fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without
the use of special equipment.
[Illustration: Sectional view of Hub showing Roller Bearings. (Cut
No. 17)]
_How are the Roller Bearings installed?_ _Answer No. 92_
First, pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease. Take
the inner cone with its rollers and pack it with grease, filling
all of the space around and between the rollers. Then place the
inner cone in the larger cup. Next, drive the dust ring with felt
washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the
end of the hub.
Place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the
spindle. The inner cone is a one-thousandth fit, or, in other
words, a slip fit on the spindle. (See Cut No. 17.) It is never
necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the cups are
forced into the hub. Pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers
with cup grease, filling all the space between the rollers, as
was done with the inner cone. The cones are made up in right-and
left-hand threads to correspond to the threads on the spindles.
Care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not forced
onto a left-hand threaded spindle. The right-hand thread is on the
left-hand side of the car, while the left-hand thread is on the
right-hand side of the car. Place the cone on the spindle, running
it up tight enough so that the wheel seems to bind; give the wheel
a few turns to be sure that all the working parts are in perfect
contact; then back off the cone ¼ to ½ a turn which will be
sufficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play.
To determine if there is end play, grasp the spokes and shake the
wheel. Do not mistake loose spindle bushings for loose bearings.
Insert a cold chisel between axle and spindle to take up any play
while testing the bearings. Next, put on the spindle washer and
nut, drawing the nut to a firm bearing. Make sure that the cone
has not been forced out of adjustment. This can be determined by
giving the wheel a few turns. Insert the cotter pin which locks
the nut on the spindle, fill the hub cap with grease and screw it
in place on the hub.
_How often should the Bearings be lubricated?_ _Answer No. 93_
Every three or four months the wheels should be removed, the old
grease taken out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed
with kerosene. Then repack the hub and bearings with clean grease
and readjust the bearings.
_What care do the Springs need?_ _Answer No. 94_
The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite.
To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the
lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general
overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves
polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite
when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the
springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black
paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will
not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the
life of the parts as well.
_Should Spring Clips be kept tight?_ _Answer No. 95_
Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire
strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the centre of
the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow
the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. It is a good
plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the
frame and see that they are kept tight.
_What about the Steering Apparatus?_ _Answer No. 96_
It is exceedingly simple and will need little care--except, of
course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in
the "sun and planet" form are located at the top of the post just
below the hub of the wheel (see Cut No. 1). By loosening the set
screw and unscrewing the cap--after having removed the steering
wheel--they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease.
To remove the steering wheel, unscrew the nut on top of the post
and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.
_How is Steering Gear tightened?_ _Answer No. 97_
Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight
movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may
be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves
of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end
of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit
snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to
replace it with a new one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other
end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner. If
the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose, the
brass bushings should be replaced with new ones (see Cut No. 16).
Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one
of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back
and forth. After the car has been in service two or three years
excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal
of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just
underneath the steering wheel spider.
It is also advisable to inspect the front spring and front spring
perches occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are
necessary to overcome any excessive vibration.
[Illustration: Lubrication Chart. (Cut No. 18)]
The Ford Lubricating System
_How does the Ford Lubricating System differ from others?_
_Answer No. 98_
It is simplified--and there are fewer places to oil. Practically
all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the
Ford splash system, from the one big oil reservoir in the crank
case. Cut No. 18 shows the principal points of lubrication, and
specifies when replenishment should be made, according to mileage.
This chart should be studied carefully and often. It is a good
plan to frequently supply all oil cups with the same oil used in
the engine (any good light grade lubricating oil will answer) and
the dope cups with good grease. Be sure to see that the commutator
is kept freely supplied with oil at all times.
_Which is the best way to fill the "Dope" Cups?_ _Answer No. 99_
When it is advisable to fill dope cup covers screw them down,
refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times.
Always open oil cups by turning to right, as this keeps tightening
rather than loosening them. Occasionally remove front wheels and
supply dope to wearing surface. A drop of oil now and then in
crank-handle bearing is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and
shaft. The axles drive shaft and universal joint are well supplied
with lubricant when the car leaves the factory, but it is well to
examine and oil them frequently.
_What kind of Oil should be used?_ _Answer No. 100_
We recommend only medium light high-grade gas engine oil for use
in the Model T motor. A medium light grade of oil is preferred
as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and
consequently less heat will develop on account of friction. The
oil should, however, have sufficient body so that the pressure
between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out and
allow the metal to come in actual contact. Heavy and inferior oils
have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also "gum up" the piston
rings, valve stems and bearings. In cold weather a light grade of
oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper
lubrication of the car. Graphite should not be used as a lubricant
in the engine or the transmission as it will have a tendency to
short-circuit the magneto.
_How often should Oil be drained from Crank Case?_ _Answer No. 101_
It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining off the
dirty oil when the new car has been driven three hundred and
fifty miles; thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this
operation about every seven hundred and fifty miles. Remove the
plug underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil. Replace
the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the breather
pipe. Turn the engine over fifteen or twenty times so that the
splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly cleanse the engine.
Remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil. It is of vital
importance that all the kerosene be removed from the depressions
in the crank case. To do this put about a quart of lubricating oil
into the motor and turn engine over several times, then remove the
crank case plug and drain off the flushing oil; then replace plug
and refill with fresh oil. (See Answer No. 3.)
_How often should Commutator be oiled?_ _Answer No. 102_
Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater
importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary in order to
have a smooth operating engine. Don't be afraid to put a little
oil into the commutator every other day--at least every 200 miles.
Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly, and
without sufficient lubrication the parts soon become badly worn.
When in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the
four contact points is impossible, as a result the engine is apt
to misfire when running at a good rate of speed.
[Illustration: Oiling the Ford Commutator. (Cut No. 19)]
_What about Lubricating the Differential?_ _Answer No. 103_
Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the
differential housing. The housing should not be more than
one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required
amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil
plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more grease
added if necessary. If a fluid grease is used the level should be
approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole.
Care of the Tires
_How are Ford Tires removed?_ _Answer No. 104_
First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should
be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into
the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen
up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and
pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or
levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just
enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not
so far as to "pinch" the inner tube between the rim and the tool.
A second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or
eight inches from the first, and the third tool the same distance
from the second. As a clincher tire must be pried over the clinch,
three levers will come in handy in a case of a "one-man job," and
the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down
one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the
shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length of the bead from
the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily
detached with the hands, and the damaged inner tube removed and
"patched" or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone
in replacing an inner tube.
_How are Casings repaired?_ _Answer No. 105_
Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube
being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by
cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before
applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be
cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both
casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency repair--but the
casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.
To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the
tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially
prepared "plastic" sold by the tire companies.
_How may Tire Expense be reduced?_ _Answer No. 106_
Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the
running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the
least expense, the tires should be inspected frequently and all
small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired--thus preventing
dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric,
causing blisters or sand boils.
Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls
are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stresses which cause
what is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a puncture
will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated,
as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft
tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft
tire.
Running a tire flat, even for a short distance, is sure to be
costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather
than on a flat tire.
Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the
tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes--no tire will
stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this
fashion.
Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the sides
of the tire against the curbing.
The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from
rust. When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it
should be jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the car is
laid up for many months it is best to remove the tires, and wrap
up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, and store them
in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperatures. Remove oil or
grease from the tires with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and
oil are three natural enemies of rubber.
_How is a puncture in the Inner Tube repaired?_ _Answer No. 107_
After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around
the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then roughen the surface with
sandpaper to give a hold for the cement. Apply the cement to
both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for about five minutes,
repeating the application twice with like intervals between for
drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against
the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath
it and insure proper adherence to the surface--then spread some
soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the
tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube is put back into the
casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter.
A cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be
vulcanized as soon as possible. In replacing the tire on the rim
be very careful not to pinch the tube.
Points on Maintenance
_What is the proper way to wash the Car?_ _Answer No. 108_
Always use cold or lukewarm water--never hot water. If a hose is
used, don't turn on the water at full force, as this drives the
dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus
mud and grime have been washed off take a sponge and clean the
body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and Ivory
or linseed oil soap. Rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and
polish the body with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of
good quality may be used to add lustre to the car. Grease on the
running gear may be removed with a gasoline-soaked sponge or rag.
The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish.
_What care does Top need?_ _Answer No. 109_
When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the
fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe
a hole through the top very quickly. Applying a good top dressing
will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.
_What should be done when the Car is stored?_ _Answer No. 110_
Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart
of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may
possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon
deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain
the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with
kerosene as directed in Answer No. 101. Refill the crank case with
fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different
parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash up the
car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to
protect the finish.
_What attention do the Electric Head Lights require?_
_Answer No. 111_
Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are
properly focused and unless the bulb burns out there should be no
occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of
order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be
exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb
with anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus
the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of lamp in either
direction until the desired focus is attained.
The Ford Model T One Ton Truck
_Do the Instructions relative to the Car apply to the Truck?_
_Answer No. 112_
The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck,
with the exception of Nos. 79, 80 and 81.
_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_
_Answer No. 113_
With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front
end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive
shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle
housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the
differential housing together. With the differential exposed to
view, the manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must
be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when
reassembling, being sure to use new paper liners.