motor is warm, and starting with the rod pulled out is apt to
"flood" the engine with an over-rich mixture of gas, which does
not readily explode. This naturally causes difficulty in starting.
If you should accidentally flood the engine, turn the carburetor
adjusting needle down (to the right) until it seats; then turn
the engine over a few times in order to exhaust the rich gas. As
soon as the motor starts, turn back the needle (to the left) and
readjust the carburetor.
[Illustration: Wiring of Ford Ignition System. (Cut No. 8)]
The Ford Ignition System
_What is the purpose of the Ignition System?_ _Answer No. 53_
It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in
the combustion chamber, thus producing the power which runs the
engine. It is important that the charge be correctly ignited
at the proper time, in order to obtain satisfactory results in
running the car. In the Ford car the ignition system is as simple
as it is possible for human invention to make it.
_How does the Magneto generate the current?_ _Answer No. 54_
In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, the magnets
on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools create an
alternating low tension electric current in coils of wire which
are wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of the
magneto, and is carried from these coils to the magneto connection
(wire) leading to the coil box on the dash.
_Should the Coil Vibrator Adjustment be disturbed?_
_Answer No. 55_
The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves
the factory and this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to
install new points or to reduce the gap between the points which
may have increased from wear. When adjustments are necessary they
should, whenever possible, be made by one of our service stations
who have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and
will gladly furnish expert service. If the points are pitted
they should be filed flat with a fine double-faced file and the
adjusting thumb nut turned down so that with the spring held down
the gap between the points will be a trifle less than 1/32″ of
an inch. Then set the lock nut so that the adjustment can not be
disturbed. Do not bend or hammer on the vibrators, as this would
affect the operation of the cushion spring of the vibrator bridge
and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
_How is a Weak Unit detected?_ _Answer No. 56_
With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular cylinder
fails or seems to develop only a weak action, change the position
of the unit to determine if the fault is actually in the unit. The
first symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of the vibrator
with no spark at the plug. Remember that a loose wire connection,
faulty spark plug, or worn commutator may cause irregularity
in the running of the motor. These are points that should be
considered before laying the blame on the coil.
_How may short circuit in Commutator Wiring be detected?_
_Answer No. 57_
Should the insulation of the primary wires (running from coil to
commutator) become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is
exposed--the current will leak out (i. e. short circuit) whenever
contact with the engine pan or other metal parts is made. A steady
buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a "short" in the
wiring. When driving the car the engine will suddenly lag and
pound on account of the premature explosion. Be careful not to
crank the engine downward against compression when the car is in
this condition, as the "short" is apt to cause a vigorous kick
back.
_Does Coil Adjustment affect starting?_ _Answer No. 58_
Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is
required to make and break the contact between the points, and,
as a result, at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between
the spark plug points. Do not allow the contact points to become
"ragged," otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary
difficulty in starting, and when running they are apt to produce
an occasional "miss" in the engine.
_What is the purpose of the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 59_
The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the
spark plugs must fire. It effects the "make and break" in the
primary circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto allows the
current to flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the
commutator. Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving
touches the four commutator contact points, to each of which is
attached a wire connected with a coil unit, an electrical circuit
is passed through the entire system of primary wires. This circuit
is only momentary, however, as the roller passes over the contact
point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the
roller touches the contact point connected with that unit. The
commutator should be kept clean and well oiled at all times.
[Illustration: The Ford Commutator. (Cut No. 9)]
_What about the Spark Plugs?_ _Answer No. 60_
One is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken
out with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the
wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of
the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact
points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a 1/32″ gap,
thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the
cylinders.
The spark plugs should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and
should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There
is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of
plugs. The make of plugs with which Ford engines are equipped
when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements
of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men
to the contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box
and commutator should, of course, at all times be kept in perfect
contact.
_What are the indications of Ignition trouble?_ _Answer No. 61_
The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or
more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that
the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring,
if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and the
entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will
be satisfied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If
anything goes wrong, stop and fix it if possible--don't wait until
you get home.
_How can one tell which Cylinder is missing?_ _Answer No. 62_
This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils.
Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed
and then hold down the two outside vibrators. No. 1 and No. 4,
with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two
corresponding cylinders. No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No. 2 and
No. 3 running. If they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble
is in either No. 1 or No. 4. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2
and No. 3 and also No. 1; if No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it
is evident the misfiring is in No. 1. In this manner all of the
cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located.
Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing
cylinder.
_If the Coil and Plug are right--what?_ _Answer No. 63_
The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn
commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in
the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank
slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong
or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected.
It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing)
becomes leaky--permitting the gas under compression to escape, a
condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil
around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear
or not.
_Does a worn Commutator ever cause misfiring?_ _Answer No. 64_
Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect
the commutator. The surface of the circle around which roller
(see Cut No. 9) travels should be clean and smooth, so that the
roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller fails
to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points,
its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces,
if dirty. In case the fibre, contact points and roller of the
commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory remedy is to
replace them with new parts. The spring should be strong enough to
make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or
dirty.
Misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires.
_How is the Commutator removed?_ _Answer No. 65_
Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from
commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe
on top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which
holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily
removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out
the retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam
shaft.
In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is
replaced so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed
when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing
the valve door and observing the operation of No. 1 valve.
_Does cold weather affect the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 66_
It is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades
of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this
occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from
making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the
fibre. This, of course, makes difficult starting as the roller arm
spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which
naturally forms over the contact points. To overcome this, as
well as any liability of the contact points to rust, we recommend
a mixture of 25% kerosene with commutator lubricating oil, which
will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as
it is commonly called. You have probably noticed in starting your
car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will
fire for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is
in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect
contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.
[Illustration: The Ford Magneto. The flywheel with magnets
revolves while magneto coils remain stationary. (Cut No. 10)]
_How is the Magneto removed?_ _Answer No. 67_
It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car (see Answer
No. 32) in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case
and transmission cover--take out the four cap screws that hold
the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access to
the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these
parts--or any parts of the car--the utmost care should be taken to
make sure that the parts are so marked that they may be replaced
properly.
_When the Magneto gets out of order--what?_ _Answer No. 68_
The Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very
little likelihood of their ever losing their strength, unless
acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachment of
a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the
magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to
try to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new
magnets. The new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or
branch house, and will be placed on a board in identically the
same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel.
Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining
up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated
from the surface of the coil spool just 1/32 of an inch. To take
out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw
which holds each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the
trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter
accumulating under the contact spring, which is held in place by
the binding post on top of the crank case cover. Remove the three
screws which hold the binding post in place, remove binding post
and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed.
[Illustration: Transmission showing all gears in mesh. (Cut No.
11)]
The Ford Transmission
_What is the function of the Transmission?_ _Answer No. 69_
It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies
between the crank shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is
enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the
speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high
speeds and by it the car is reversed.
_What is meant by the term "Planetary Transmission?"_
_Answer No. 70_
One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve
around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into
action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the
gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of
the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the
simplest and most direct means of speed control--and is a distinct
advantage of the Ford car.
_What is the purpose of the Clutch?_ _Answer No. 71_
If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight
through to the differential--and through it applied its power
direct to the rear wheels--the car would start forward immediately
upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get it
started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the
shaft is divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft
to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to
take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without
jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred to as the
crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.
_How is the Clutch controlled?_ _Answer No. 72_
By the left pedal at the driver's feet (see Answer No. 10). If
the clutch pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a
tendency to stick and not come back readily into high, tighten
up the slow speed band as directed in Answer No. 74. Should the
machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it
indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch
lever cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch
in neutral position. When the clutch is released by pulling back
the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of 1¾″ in
passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe
and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act
sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. Also
be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being
adjusted too tight. Don't use a too heavy grade of oil in cold
weather as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch
discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.
_How is the Clutch adjusted?_ _Answer No. 73_
Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards
at the driver's feet. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch
finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the
right with a screw-driver. Do the same to the other finger set
screws. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and don't
forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period
of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing
another pair of clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting
screws in too far.
[Illustration: The above drawing of Transmission shows clearly the
operation of Clutch, Reverse and Brake Pedals. (Cut No. 12)]
CAUTION: Let us warn you against placing any small tools or
objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or
cord attached to them. Otherwise if they are dropped into the
transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them without
taking off the transmission cover.
_How are the Bands adjusted?_ _Answer No. 74_
The slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut
at the right side of the transmission cover, and turning the
adjusting screw (see Cut No. 12) to the right. To tighten the
brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover door and
turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right. See that the
bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a
brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. However, the foot
brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the
car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency.
The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take
hold properly, should be relined, so that they will engage
smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining
is inexpensive and may be had at any Ford service station at small
cost.
_How are the Bands removed?_ _Answer No. 75_
Remove the starting motor (see Answer No. 128). Take off the door
on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and
the brake adjustment nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts,
then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts
holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off the
cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first
of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening
is downward. The band can now be removed by lifting upward. The
operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple
gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right
of center at top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It
is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as
at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case
to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward.
By reversing this operation the bands may be installed. After
being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord
around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so
that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will
be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches
in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be placed in the
rear groove of the clutch shift. With the cover in place remove
the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being
installed.
_How is the Transmission assembled?_ _Answer No. 76_
Cut No. 13 shows the transmission parts in their relative
assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of
assembling.
The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as
follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical
position, place the slow speed plate over the hub with gear
uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so
that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two
keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven
gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come
next to the slow speed gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh
them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the
teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly
being downward. After making sure that the triple gears are
properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the
outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it on
the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in a
vertical position; then invert the group which you have assembled
over the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the
triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple
gears. This will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold
the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum
key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over
the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put a
large disc over the clutch drum, then a small disc, alternating
with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in
position, ending up with a large disc on top.
[Illustration: Transmission parts in their relative assembling
positions. (Cut No. 13)]
If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch
drum in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you
would be unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the
clutch push ring over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs
with the three pins projecting upward (see Group No. 4, Cut No.
13). You will note the remaining parts are placed as they will
be assembled. Next bolt the driving plate in position so that
the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the
clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a
good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with
the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled they will
revolve freely. The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving
plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that
the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put
on the clutch spring, placing the clutch support inside so that
the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press
into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through
the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the clutch
spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom
of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring
sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the
clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening
up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a
space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the
clutch slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws
in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all
around.
[Illustration: The Rear Axle System. (Cut No. 14)]
The Rear Axle Assembly
_How is the Rear Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 77_
Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in Answer No. 89.
Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the
transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts
holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame
at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.
_How is the Universal Joint disconnected from the Drive Shaft?_
_Answer No. 78_
Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn
shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint
can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.
_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_
_Answer No. 79_
With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end
of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube
to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves
of differential housing together. If necessary to disassemble
differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to
immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care
must be exercised to get every pin, bolt and keylock back in its
correct position when reassembling.
_How is the Drive Shaft Pinion removed?_ _Answer No. 80_
The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is
tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed
onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter-pinned "castle" nut.
Remove the castle nut, and drive the pinion off.
_How are the Differential Gears Removed?_ _Answer No. 81_
The differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear
axle shaft. They work upon the differential pinions when turning
a corner, so that the axle shafts revolve independently, but when
the car is moving in a straight line the differential pinions and
differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part. If
you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the
gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring which is in two
halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the
differential gears, force them down on the shaft, that is, away
from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves
of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, then
force the gears off the end of the shafts.
_How is the Rear Axle Shaft removed?_ _Answer No. 82_