To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling
to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller
bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the
coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then
force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut will
permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and
rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin
which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place.
_How is the Differential Gear removed from the Shaft?_
_Answer No. 115_
The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear
axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a
ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear
axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft, that
is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two
halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw-driver or chisel,
and force the gear off the end of the shaft.
_What about Lubricating the Rear Axle?_ _Answer No. 116_
Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-l
heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore's
Worm Gear Protective, should be used and carried at a level with
the upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required
amount of lubricant when the truck leaves the factory and the
supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After
running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained
off by removing the lower oil plug, and the differential filled
with fresh lubricant. This operation should be repeated at
approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The
rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope
cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease
and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck
back in service after the rear axle has been taken down, fill the
differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten
minutes to insure proper lubrication of all bearings.
[Illustration: Truck Rear Axle--Longitudinal View. (Cut No. 20)]
[Illustration: Truck Rear Axle--Cross Section showing Worm and
Worm Gear. (Cut No. 21)]
[Illustration: Starter and Generator Units. (Cut No. 22)]
The Ford Starting and Lighting System
_Of what does the Starting and Lighting System consist?_
_Answer No. 117_
The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and
consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery,
ammeter, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and
connections.
_Where is the Starter located?_ _Answer No. 118_
The starting motor is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine
and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion
on the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.
_What if the Engine fails to start?_ _Answer No. 119_
If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the
engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting
system. In this event release the button at once so as not to
unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and
ignition system to determine the trouble.
_What if the Starting Motor fails to act?_ _Answer No. 120_
If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button,
first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two
terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch,
making sure all of the connections are tight; then examine the
wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short
circuit. If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting
motor fails to act, test the battery with a hydrometer. If the
hydrometer reading is less than 1.225 the trouble is no doubt due
to a weak or discharged battery.
_What if the driver steps on Starting Button when engine is
running?_ _Answer No. 121_
Should the driver accidentally step on the starting button while
the engine is running, no harm will result. The pinion merely
touches the revolving flywheel gear once and immediately rotates
with the threaded shaft out of contact with the flywheel, in
the same manner as when it has been disengaged by the engine's
starting.
_How is the Generator operated?_ _Answer No. 122_
The generator is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine
and bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is operated by
the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with the large time
gear. The charging rate of generator is set so as to cut in at
engine speeds corresponding to 10 miles per hour in high speed
and reaches a maximum charging rate at 20 miles per hour. At
higher speeds the charge will taper off, which is a settled
characteristic of a generator. This operation of cutting in and
cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out,
which is mounted on the generator. This cut-out is set properly
at the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered
with.
[Illustration: Wiring Diagram Cars Equipped with Starter. (Cut No.
23)]
_What about Oiling?_ _Answer No. 123_
The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the
same as the engine and transmission. The generator is lubricated
by a splash of oil from the time gears. In addition an oil cup is
located at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil
should be applied occasionally.
_What should be done when repairing the Ignition?_ _Answer No. 124_
The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will
discharge the magnets and whenever working on the ignition system
or wiring do not fail to disconnect the positive wire from the
battery. The end of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent
its coming in contact with the terminal again.
_How does the Ammeter operate?_ _Answer No. 125_
The ammeter is located on the instrument board. This indicator
registers "charge" when the generator is charging the battery and
"discharge" when the lights are burning and the engine not running
above 10 miles per hour. At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour
or more the ammeter should show a reading of from 10 to 12. If
the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the ammeter
does not show a proper reading, first inspect the terminal posts
on the ammeter, making sure that the connections are tight, then
disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator, and with the
engine running at a moderate speed, take a pair of pliers or a
screw-driver and short-circuit the terminal stud on the generator
to the generator housing. If the generator is O. K., a good live
spark will be noted. (Do not run the engine any longer than is
necessary with the terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the
wiring from the generator through the ammeter, to the battery for
a break in the insulation that would result in a short-circuit. If
the trouble is not located, then remove the dust cap from the end
of generator and thoroughly clean the generator commutator, using
for this work a fine grade of sandpaper which has been slightly
oiled. With the motor running hold the sandpaper against the
commutator with the fingers until all dirt has been removed and a
bright surface attained.
_How are the Lights operated?_ _Answer No. 126_
The lighting system consists of two headlights and a tail light
operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on
the instrument board. The headlamp bulbs are of 6-8 volt, double
filament type. The major filament is 18 candle-power, and the
minor filament is 2¾ candle-power. The small bulb used in the tail
light is of 6-8 volt, single contact, two candle-power type. All
of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or
removal of any one of them will not affect the other. Current for
the lamps is supplied by the battery. Do not connect the lights to
the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs and might
discharge the magnets. Cut No. 23 shows the different circuits and
the course of the current.
_What about repairing Starter and Generator_ _Answer No. 127_
If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service,
the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford dealer.
_Owners should not attempt to repair or adjust the mechanism of
the starter and generator._
_How is the Starter removed?_ _Answer No. 128_
When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for
any other reason, first remove the engine pan on the left-hand
side of the engine and with a screw-driver remove the four small
screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover. Upon
removing cover and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around
so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is at the top.
Immediately under the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed
with lips or extensions opposite each other. One of these is
turned against the collar and the other is turned up against the
side of the screw head. Bend back the lip which has been forced
against the screw and remove the set-screw. As the lock washer
will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter, a new
one must be used when replacing it. Next, pull the Bendix assembly
out of the housing, being careful that the small key is not
misplaced nor lost. Remove the four screws which hold the starter
housing to the transmission cover, and pull out the starter,
taking same down through the chassis--this is why it was necessary
to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be used in removing
the Bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost
and that they are replaced in their former position. In replacing
the starter, be sure that the terminal connection is placed at
the top. If the car is to be operated with the starter removed,
be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position. These
plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer.
_How is the Bendix Drive assembled to the Starting Motor?_
_Answer No. 129_
When assembling the Bendix Drive to the starting motor shaft, care
must be used to see that the stop nut or bearing which enters the
mounting bracket on the starting motor is not too tight; also
that the bearing is in proper alignment with the bracket. The
bearing should be oiled and then fitted so that it can be turned
readily with the fingers. If the bearing is too tight, it should
be dressed down with an oil stone. Too tight a fit will cause the
bearing to freeze to the bracket, resulting in serious damage to
the starter.
_How is the Generator removed?_ _Answer No. 130_
If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take
out the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and
by placing the point of a screw-driver between the generator
and front end cover, the generator may be forced off the engine
assembly. Always start at the top of the generator and force it
backward and downward at the same time. Plates may be obtained
from the nearest dealer to place over the time gear if the car is
to be operated with the generator removed.
_What should be done when replacing the Generator?_
_Answer No. 131_
When installing the generator, the drive pinion must be properly
meshed with the large time gear. The generator bracket, that is,
the section to which the generator is bolted is separate from the
cylinder block and the meshing of the generator driving pinion
with the large time gear can be regulated by the use of one or
more paper gaskets between the bracket and the cylinder block.
The bracket should rest tightly on the crankcase gasket and line
up with the face of the time gear case. If these gears are meshed
too tightly, a humming noise will result, also the generator shaft
will be thrown out of alignment.
_Can the Engine be run with the Generator disconnected from the
battery?_ _Answer No. 132_
If for any reason the engine is run with the generator
disconnected from the battery, as on a block test, or when
battery has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that
the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on
generator to one of the dust cover screws in the yoke. Two strands
of shipping tag wire may be used for this purpose. Be sure that
the connections at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do
this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from
the battery will result in serious injury to the generator. _Never
ground the generator through the cut-out._
_What type of Battery is used?_ _Answer No. 133_
The Ford Starting System uses a six-volt, three-cell battery.
_How are Hydrometer Readings taken?_ _Answer No. 134_
[Illustration: Hydrometer Readings. (Cut No. 24)]
Hydrometer readings should be taken about every two weeks to make
sure that the generator is keeping the battery charged. To take
a hydrometer reading, remove the filling plugs (remove the plug
from only one cell at a time). Next, insert hydrometer syringe
in the filler tube and draw up enough of the solution to float
the glass bulb inside the instrument. The reading of the scale
at the surface of the liquid (see Cut No. 24) gives the strength
of the solution. Be sure to return the electrolyte to the cell
from which it was taken. Following is a list of the readings with
their indications. The readings in parentheses apply to batteries
used in tropical climates where water never freezes. Readings of
1.275 (1.200) or more indicate a fully charged battery. Readings
of less than 1.225 (1.130) but more than 1.150 (1.080) indicate
complete discharge. Hydrometer tests taken immediately after
filling with water and before it has become thoroughly mixed
with the electrolyte will not show the true condition of the
battery. If the hydrometer reading shows the battery less than
one-half charged, it should be taken to the nearest authorized
Battery Service Station for recharging. Continued operation in
a less than half-charged condition is injurious to the battery
somewhat as running on a soft or deflated tire is injurious to the
tire. Before replacing the battery, the cause of the discharged
condition should be removed. It may be due to leaks or grounds
in the car wiring or to the electric system having gotten out
of adjustment so that the battery is not kept supplied with the
proper amount of current from the generator. If the reading in
one cell is more than 50 points different from the others, it
indicates that the cell is not in good order and the battery
should be taken to a skilled service man for attention.
_When should water be added to the Battery?_ _Answer No. 135_
Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to
keep the plates covered at all times. The solution (electrolyte)
should be maintained at a level with the bottom of the filling
tube. Distilled water, melted artificial (but not natural) ice and
rain water, if obtained in the open country from a clean slate or
shingle-covered roof, are generally satisfactory. All water for
battery use should be kept in clean, covered vessels of glass,
china, earthenware, rubber or lead. In cold weather add water only
immediately before running the engine so that the charging will
mix the water and electrolyte, and avoid freezing. If, for any
reason, it is necessary to add acid, the battery should be taken
to an authorized Service Station.
_What care should be given the Filling Plugs and Connections?_
_Answer No. 136_
Keep the filling plugs and connections tight and the top of the
battery clean. Wiping the battery with a rag moistened with
ammonia will counteract the effect of any of the solution which
may be on the outside of the battery. A coating of heavy oil or
vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion. Keep the
battery firmly secured in position. If clamps are loose, the
battery will shift about in the compartment and result in loose
connections, broken cells and other trouble. If repairs are
necessary or if the car is to be laid up for the winter, take the
battery to a skilled service man for proper attention and storage.
Do not entrust the battery to inexperienced or unskilled hands.
Summary of Engine Troubles and Their Causes
ENGINE FAILS TO START
1. Gas mixture too lean.
2. Water in gasoline.
3. Vibrators adjusted too close.
4. Water or congealed oil in commutator.
5. Magneto contact point (in trans. cover) obstructed with foreign
matter.
6. Gasoline supply shut off.
7. Carburetor frozen (in zero weather).
8. Water frozen in gasoline tank sediment bulb.
9. Coil switch off.
ENGINE LACKS POWER--RUNS IRREGULARLY
At Low Speeds.
1. Poor compression--account leaky valves.
2. Gas mixture too rich or too lean.
3. Spark plugs dirty.
4. Coil vibrator improperly adjusted.
5. Air leak in intake manifold.
6. Weak exhaust valve spring.
7. Too great clearance between valve stem and push rod.
8. Too close gap between spark plug points.
At High Speeds.
1. Commutator contact imperfect.
2. Weak valve spring.
3. Too much gap in spark plug.
4. Imperfect gas mixture.
5. Vibrator points dirty or burned.
ENGINE STOPS SUDDENLY
1. Gasoline tank empty.
2. Water in gasoline.
3. Flooded carburetor.
4. Dirt in carburetor or feed pipe.
5. Magneto wire loose at either terminal.
6. Magneto contact point obstructed.
7. Overheated--account lack of oil or water.
8. Gas mixture too lean.
ENGINE OVERHEATS
1. Lack of water.
2. Lack of oil.
3. Fan belt torn, loose or slipping.
4. Carbon deposit in combustion chamber.
5. Spark retarded too far.
6. Gas mixture too rich.
7. Water circulation retarded by sediment in radiator.
8. Dirty spark plugs.
ENGINE KNOCKS
1. Carbon deposit on piston heads.
2. Loose connecting rod bearing.
3. Loose crank shaft bearing.
4. Spark advanced too far.
5. Engine overheated.
Index
CARE OF TIRES Page
Care of Inner Tubes 48
Casings--How Repaired 48
How to Remove Tires 48
Repair Puncture 49
COOLING SYSTEM
Causes of Overheating 17
Purpose 17
Radiator Care in Winter 19
Repairing Radiator 19
What to Do When Overheated 17
ENGINE
Carbon--How Removed 14
Connecting Rod and Bearings 15
Engine Fails to Start 61
Engine Lacks Power--Runs Irregularly 61
Engine Stops Suddenly 61
Engine Overheats 61
Engine Knocks 61
Knocking--Causes 14
Main Bearing--How Adjusted 16
Piston 9
Power Plant--How Removed 15
Valves 9
GASOLINE SYSTEM
Carburetor--How to Adjust 21
Carburetor--How Controlled 21
Carburetor--Trouble 22
Carburetor--How it Works 21
IGNITION SYSTEM
Coils 25
Commutator--Its Purpose 26
Magneto 25
Magneto Trouble 29
Spark Plugs 20
Where to Look for Trouble 27
LUBRICATING SYSTEM
How it Differs from Others 45
Kind of Oil to Use 45
To Fill "Dope" Cups 45
MAINTENANCE
Care of Top 50
Storing Cars 50
To Keep Car Clean 50
MUFFLER
What It Is For 39
How to Disconnect 39
OPERATION
Adjustments--What to Do 5
Gasoline 3
Getting Ready to Start 3
Hand Lever 6
Oiling 3
Slow Speed, Brake and Reverse 6
Spark--How Controlled 7
Speed--How Controlled 7
Starting 5
Starting in Cold Weather 6
REAR AXLE
Differential Gear--How Removed 37
Rear Axle--How to Remove Parts 37
Universal Joint--To Disconnect 37
RUNNING GEAR
About Wheels 41
Care of Springs 43
Cups--How Installed 41
Its Care 40
Lubricating the Bearings 43
Remove Front Axle 40
Roller Bearings--How Installed 43
Steering Apparatus 44
Wheels 41
TRANSMISSION
Bands 33
Clutch 31
Planetary Transmission--What Is It 31
Transmission--How Assembled 33
Model T Truck
Worm, How Removed 51
Lubricating the Differential 51
The Ford Starting and Lighting System
Type of System 55
The Starting Motor--What if it Fails to Act 55
Oiling the Starter and Generator 57
The Starter--How Removed 58
The Bendix Drive--How Assembled to Starting Motor 58
The Generator--How Removed 58
The Battery--Repairing and Recharging 59
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE
-Obvious print and punctuation errors fixed.
-A Table of Contents was not in the original work; one has been
produced and added by Transcriber.
End of Project Gutenberg's Ford Manual (1919), by Ford Motor Company