[Illustration: Ford Logo]
Contents
PAGE
Foreword 2
The Car and Its Operation 3
The Ford Engine 9
The Ford Cooling System 17
The Gasoline System 21
The Ford Ignition System 25
The Ford Transmission 31
The Rear Axle Assembly 37
The Ford Muffler 39
The Running Gear 40
The Ford Lubricating System 46
Care of the Tires 48
Points on Maintenance 50
The Ford Model T One Ton Truck 51
The Ford Starting and Lighting System 55
Summary of Engine Troubles and Their Causes 61
Index 62
[Illustration: Ford The Universal Car]
FORD MANUAL
For Owners and Operators
of Ford Cars and Trucks
Copyrighted 1919
_by_
Ford Motor Company
All rights reserved
_Published by_
FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Detroit, Michigan, U. S. A.
Foreword
It is a significant fact that nearly all Ford cars are driven by
laymen--by owners, who in the great majority of cases have little
or no practical experience with things mechanical.
The simplicity of the Ford car and the ease with which it
is operated renders an intimate knowledge of mechanical
technicalities unnecessary for its operation.
And the further fact that there are more than twenty thousand Ford
service stations distributed throughout the civilized world--where
adjustments and repairs may be had with no annoying delay--gives
to Ford owners a singular freedom from mechanical annoyances
which beset owners of cars having limited service facilities and
distribution.
But while it is not imperative, it is, however, altogether
desirable that every Ford owner should thoroughly understand his
car. With such knowledge at his command he is always master of the
situation--he will maintain his car more economically--prolong its
usefulness--and he will also derive more pleasure from it, for it
is a truism that the more one knows about a thing the more one
enjoys it.
The mastery of a thorough knowledge of Ford construction is by no
means a difficult or time-consuming task. The Ford is the simplest
car made. It is easy to understand, and is not difficult to keep
in proper adjustment and repair.
That the Ford construction may be thoroughly understood--and
that there may be an authoritative guide for the making of Ford
adjustments--this book is published.
Important
_It is most important that owners of Ford cars shall insist upon
getting the genuine Ford-made materials, or "Parts," when having
repairs or replacements made. This will be assured when the car
is taken to the authorized Ford agent. Imitation, or "bogus" or
counterfeit parts of inferior quality are being made and sold as
"Ford Parts." Avoid their use by dealing with the authorised Ford
agent._
The Car and Its Operation
_What must be done before starting the Car?_ _Answer No. 1_
Before trying to start the car, fill the radiator (by removing cap
at top) with clean fresh water. If perfectly clean water cannot
be obtained it is advisable to strain it through muslin or other
similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting in and
obstructing the small tubes of the radiator. The system will hold
approximately three gallons. It is important that the car should
not be run under its own power unless the water circulating system
has been filled. Pour in the water until you are sure that both
radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. The water will run
out of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water
system has been properly filled. During the first few days that a
new car is being driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator
frequently and see that it is kept properly filled. The water
supply should be replenished as often as may be found necessary.
Soft rain water, when it is to be had in a clean state, is
superior to hard water, which may contain alkalies and other salts
which tend to deposit sediment and clog the radiator. (See chapter
on Cooling System.)
_What about Gasoline?_ _Answer No. 2_
The ten-gallon gasoline tank should be filled--nearly full--and
the supply should never be allowed to get low. When filling the
tank be sure that there are no naked flames within several feet,
as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels rapidly. Always
be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been
spilled, as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated
with the highly explosive vapor. The small vent hole in the
gasoline tank cap should not be allowed to get plugged up, as
this would prevent proper flow of the gasoline to the carburetor.
The gasoline tank may be drained by opening the pet cock in the
sediment bulb at the bottom.
_How about the Oiling System?_ _Answer No. 3_
Upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium light,
high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case through
the breather pipe at the front of the engine (a metal cap covers
it). Down under the car in the flywheel casing (the reservoir
which holds this oil) you will find two pet cocks. Pour oil in
slowly until it runs out of the upper cock. Leave the cock open
until it stops running--then close it. After the engine has
become thoroughly limbered up, the best results will be obtained
by carrying the oil at a level midway between the two cocks--but
under no circumstances should it be allowed to get below the lower
cock. All other parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves
the factory. However, it will be well to see that all grease cups
are filled and that oil is supplied to necessary parts. (See Cut
No. 18, also chapter on Lubrication.)
_How are Spark and Throttle Levers used?_ _Answer No. 4_
Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The right-hand
(throttle) lever controls the amount of mixture (gasoline and air)
which goes into the engine. When the engine is in operation, the
farther this lever is moved downward toward the driver (referred
to as "opening the throttle") the faster the engine runs and the
greater the power furnished. The left-hand lever controls the
spark, which explodes the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The
advancing of this lever "advances the spark," and it should
be moved down notch by notch until the motor seems to reach its
maximum speed. If the lever is advanced beyond this point a dull
knock will be noticed in the engine. (See chapter on Ignition.)
[Illustration: Steering Wheel, showing reduction gears meshing
with the teeth of the gear case and center pinion. (Cut No. 1)]
_Where should these levers be when starting the Engine?_
_Answer No. 5_
The spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth
notch of the quadrant (the notched half-circle on which the levers
operate). The throttle should usually be opened about five or
six notches. A little experience will soon teach you where these
levers should be placed for proper starting. Care should be taken
not to advance the spark lever too far, as the engine may "back
kick."
_What else is necessary before starting the Engine?_ _Answer No. 6_
First, see that the hand lever, which comes up through the floor
of the car at the left of the driver, is pulled back as far as it
will go. The lever in this position holds the clutch in neutral
and engages the hub brake, thus preventing the car moving forward
when the engine is started. Second, after inserting the switch key
in the switch on the coil box, throw the switch lever as far to
the left as it will go--to the point marked "magneto." This switch
connects the magneto with the engine. The engine can't be started
until it is on--and the throwing off of this switch stops the
engine.
_How is the Engine started?_ _Answer No. 7_
If the car is not equipped with a starter the engine is started
by the lifting of the starting crank at the front of the car.
Take hold of the handle and push firmly toward the car till you
feel the crank ratchet engage, then lift upward with a quick
swing. With a little experience this operation wall become an
easy matter. Don't, as a usual thing, crank downward against the
compression--for then an early explosion may drive the handle
vigorously backward. This does not mean however, that it is not
advisable, when the car is hard to start, to occasionally "spin"
the engine by the use of the starting handle--but be sure the
spark lever is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine
against compression, otherwise a sudden backfire may injure the
arm of the operator. When the engine is cool it is advisable to
prime the carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower
left corner of the radiator while giving the engine two or three
quarter turns with the starting handle.
If the car is equipped with a starter the spark and throttle
levers should be placed in the same position on the quadrant as
when cranking by hand, and the ignition switch turned on. Current
from either battery or magneto may be used for ignition. However,
we recommend that the magneto be used at all times. The magneto
was designed to furnish ignition for the Model T engine and
better results will be obtained by operating in this way. Special
attention must be paid to the position of the spark lever as a
too advanced spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn
will bend or break the shaft in the starter. The starting motor is
operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor of
the car at the driver's feet. With the spark and throttle levers
in the proper position, and the ignition switch turned on, press
on the push button with the foot. This closes the circuit between
the battery and starting motor, causing the pinion of the Bendix
drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel, thus turning
over the crankshaft. When the engine is cold it may be necessary
to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is
located on the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the
engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should
only be held out for a few seconds at a time.
_How is the Engine best started in cold weather?_ _Answer No. 8_
As gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather it is
naturally more difficult to start the motor under such conditions.
The usual method of starting the engine when cold is to turn
the carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left in
order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the
cylinders; then hold out the priming rod, while you turn crank
from six to eight one-quarter turns in quick succession, or turn
the motor over a few times with the starter. Another method of
starting a troublesome cold engine is as follows: Before you throw
on the magneto switch, (1) close throttle lever; (2) hold out
priming rod while you give crank several quick turns, or turn the
motor over a few times with the starter, then let go of priming
rod (being careful that it goes back all the way); (3) place spark
lever in about third notch and advance throttle lever several
notches; (4) throw on switch (being sure to get it on side marked
"Magneto"); (5) give crank one or two turns, or close the starting
switch, and the motor should start. After starting the motor it
is advisable to advance the spark eight or ten notches on the
quadrant and let the motor run until thoroughly heated up. If you
start out with a cold motor you will not have much power and are
liable to "stall." The advantage of turning on the switch last, or
after priming, is that when you throw on the switch and start the
motor, you have plenty of gas in the cylinders, to keep the motor
running, thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting and
stopping. After motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment back
one-quarter turn.
To facilitate starting many drivers make a practice of stopping
their engine by pulling out on the priming rod, which has the
effect of shutting off the air suction and filling the cylinders
full of a very rich gasoline vapor. This should not be done unless
the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off.
If the motor is stopped in this way and then started when hot,
starting is apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline
in the carburetor.
_What function does the Hand Lever perform?_ _Answer No. 9_
Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. If it
were not for this lever the driver would have to stop the engine
whenever he left the driver's seat. He would also be unable to
crank the engine without the car starting forward with the first
explosion. When pulled back as far as it will go, the hand lever
acts as an emergency brake on the rear wheels, by expanding the
brake shoes in the rear wheel drums. Therefore the hand lever
should be back as far as it will go when cranking the engine or
when the car is at rest. It should be only in a vertical position,
and not far enough backward to act as a brake on the rear wheels,
when the car is to be reversed. When the car is operating in high
or low speed the hand lever should be all the way forward.
_How do the Foot Pedals operate?_ _Answer No. 10_
The first one toward the left operates the clutch. When pressed
forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed. When half-way
forward the clutch is in neutral (i. e., disconnected from the
driving mechanism of the rear wheels), and the releasing of this
pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The center pedal operates the
reverse. The right-hand pedal operates the transmission brake.
_How is the Car started?_ _Answer No. 11_
Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle, press
the clutch pedal half way forward, thereby holding the clutch in
a neutral position while throwing the hand lever forward; then
press the pedal forward into slow speed and when under sufficient
headway (20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop back slowly into
high speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle,
which will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a
little practice, the change of speeds will be easily accomplished,
and without any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the
machine.
_How is the Car stopped?_ _Answer No. 12_
Partially close the throttle; release the high speed by pressing
the clutch pedal forward into neutral; apply the foot brake slowly
but firmly until the car comes to a dead stop. Do not remove foot
from the clutch pedal without first pulling the hand lever back
to neutral position, or the engine will stall. To stop the motor,
open the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw
off the switch. The engine will then stop with the cylinders full
of explosive gas, which will naturally facilitate starting.
Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the
car that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes
practically automatic--the natural thing to do in case of
emergency.
_How is the Car reversed?_ _Answer No. 13_
It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine running,
disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press the reverse
pedal forward with the left foot, the right foot being free to use
on the brake pedal if needed. Do not bring the hand lever back too
far or you will set the brakes on rear wheels. Experienced drivers
ordinarily reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in
neutral with the left foot, and operating the reverse pedal with
the right.
_How is the Spark controlled?_ _Answer No. 14_
By the left-hand lever under the steering wheel. Good operators
drive with the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will
permit. However, advancing the spark too far will cause a dull
knock in the motor, due to the fact that the explosion occurs too
early. The spark should only be retarded when the engine slows
down on a heavy road or steep grade, but care should be exercised
not to retard the spark too far as this will result in late
ignition, which causes loss of power and overheating of the motor
and may also result in warped, burned or cracked valves. Learn to
operate the spark as the occasion demands. The greatest economy
in gasoline consumption is obtained by driving with the spark
advanced sufficiently to obtain the maximum speed.
_How is speed of Car controlled?_ _Answer No. 15_
The different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained
by opening or closing the throttle. Practically all the running
speeds needed for ordinary travel are obtained on high gear, and
it is seldom necessary to use the low gear except to give the car
momentum in starting. The speed of the car may be temporarily
slackened in driving through crowded traffic, turning corners,
etc., by "slipping the clutch," i. e., pressing the clutch pedal
forward into neutral.
_Is it advisable for owners to make their own Adjustments?_
_Answer No. 16_
The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the ordinary
adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for himself. But
we must strongly recommend that when it becomes necessary
to employ the services of a mechanic, the car be taken to a
Ford mechanic--one of our own representatives who thoroughly
understands the car--and who will have no motive for running up
useless repair bills. The entire Ford organization is interested
in keeping every individual Ford car in constant operation, at the
lowest possible cost. We have known of much damage done to many
cars by unskilled repair men.
_What attention does the Car need?_ _Answer No. 17_
Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during
the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have
become thoroughly "worked in." The car which is driven slowly and
carefully when new usually gives the most satisfactory service in
the end. Never start out with your car until you are sure that
is has plenty of oil and water. Frequently inspect the running
gear. See that no unnecessary play exists in either front or rear
wheels, and that all bolts and nuts are tight. Make a practice of
taking care of every repair or adjustment as soon as its necessity
is discovered. This attention requires but little time and may
avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We aim to deliver
the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards it is plainly
the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.
The Ford Engine
_What is the principle of the gasoline-driven Engine?_
_Answer No. 18_
Gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly explosive.
An explosion is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous
combustion of confined gases. In the gasoline engine the mixture
is drawn into a cylinder, where it is compressed by an advancing
piston and then exploded by an electric spark, which sends the
piston downward, and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary
motion to the crankshaft. (See Cut No. 2.)
_What are the functions of the Pistons?_ _Answer No. 19_
On the downward stroke the suction of the piston draws the fresh
gas from the carburetor, through the inlet pipe and valve, into
the cylinder. The upward movement of the piston compresses the
gas into a very small space, between the top of the piston and
the depression in the cylinder head, known as the "combustion
chamber." (The compressed gases exert a pressure of approximately
60 pounds per square inch.) At this point the electric spark,
generated by the magneto, explodes the gases--driving the piston
downward--thus producing the power which turns the crank shaft.
On the next stroke upward the piston drives the exploded gas out
through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler. (See Cut No. 3.)
_Connecting Rod--how removed?_ _Answer No. 20_
It is a steel rod, connecting piston and crank shaft. Should the
babbitt bearing become worn, or burned out through lack of oil,
a knocking in the engine will result in which case the entire
connecting rod should be replaced. To make this replacement,
(1) drain oil from crank case; (2) take off cylinder head; (3)
remove detachable plate on bottom of crank case; (4) disconnect
connecting rod from crank shaft; (5) take piston and rod out
through top of cylinder.
_What is the Valve Arrangement?_ _Answer No. 21_
One intake and one exhaust valve are located in each cylinder.
The former admits the fresh gas drawn from the carburetor through
the inlet pipe--the latter permits the exploded gas to be driven
out through the exhaust pipe. The valves are alternately opened
and closed (see Cut No. 3) by the cams on the cam shaft striking
against push rods which in turn lift the valves from their seats.
_What about Valve timing?_ _Answer No. 22_
In timing the engine the points of opening and closing of the
valves are, of course, what should be considered. As the valves
are properly timed at the factory when the engine is built the
necessity for retiming would occur only when such parts as the cam
shaft, time gears or valves were removed in overhauling the engine.
[Illustration: Sectional View of the Model T Motor. (Cut No. 2)]
[Illustration: Cylinder Assembly, showing the correct position of
the valves with time gears properly set according to punch marks
on the gears, also the relative position of the pistons in their
strokes as indicated above. The firing order of the cylinders is
1, 2, 4, 3. (Cut No. 3)]
In fitting the large time gear to the cam shaft it is important to
see that the first cam points in a direction opposite to the zero
mark (see Cut No. 3). The time gears must also mesh so that the
tooth marked zero (0) on the small time gear will come between the
two teeth on the large gear at the zero point. The time gears now
being properly set, the exhaust valve on No. 1 cylinder is open and
the intake valve closed, the other valves being in the position
indicated in Cut No. 3. The opening and closing of the valves being
as follows: The exhaust valve opens when the piston reaches 5/16″
of bottom center, the distance from the top of the piston head to
the top of cylinder casting measuring 3⅜″. The exhaust valve will
close on top centre, the piston being 5/16″ above the cylinder
casting. The intake valve opens 1/16″ after top center, and closes
9/16″ after bottom center, the distance from the top of the piston
to the top of the cylinder casting measuring 3⅛″.
[Illustration: How the valve lifting tool should be used. (Cut No. 4)]
The clearance between the push rod and valve stem should never be
greater than 1/32″ nor less than 1/64″. The correct clearance is
naturally half way between these two measurements. The gap should
be measured when the push rod is on the heel of the cam.
_What about the care of the Valves?_ _Answer No. 23_
They seldom get out of order--but they do get dirty, as a result
of carbon collecting on the valve seats. These carbon deposits by
preventing proper closing of the valves, permit the gases under
compression to escape, resulting in loss of power and uneven
running of the motor. If, when turning the engine over slowly,
there is a lack of resistance in one or more cylinders, it is
probable that the valves need re-grinding. As the "life" of the
engine depends largely upon the proper seating of the valves, it
is necessary that they be ground occasionally.
_How are Valves removed for grinding?_ _Answer No. 24_
(1) Drain radiator; (2) remove cylinder head; (3) remove the two
valve covers on the right side of engine; (4) raise the valve
spring with lifting tool (see Cut No. 4) and pull out the little
pin under the valve seat. The valve may then be lifted out by the
head.
_How are Valves ground?_ _Answer No. 25_
For this work use a good grinding paste of ground glass and
oil--procurable from auto supply houses. A convenient way is to
put a small amount in a suitable dish, adding a spoonful or two of
kerosene and a few drops of lubricating oil to make a thin paste.
[Illustration: Method of grinding valve. (Cut No. 5)]
Place the mixture sparingly on the bevel face of the valve. Put
the valve in position on the valve seat, and rotate it back and
forth (about a quarter turn) a few times, with a Ford grinding
tool. Then lift slightly from the seat, change the position and
continue the rotation, and keep on repeating this operation until
the bearing surface is smooth and bright. The valve should not
be turned through a complete revolution, as this is apt to cause
scratches running around the entire circumference of the valve and
seat. When the grinding is completed the valve should be removed
from the cylinder, thoroughly washed with kerosene, and the valve
seat wiped out thoroughly. Extreme care should be taken that no
abrasive substance gets into the cylinders or valve guides. This
can be avoided if the grinding paste is applied sparingly to
the bevel face of the valve. If the valve seat is worn badly or
seamed, it is best to have it reseated with a valve seating tool.
This operation requires considerable skill, and perhaps had better
be done by an expert mechanic. Care should be exercised against
making too deep a cut, necessitating the retiming of the valve.
_When the Valves and Push Rods are worn--what?_ _Answer No. 26_
When the valves or push rods become worn, so as to leave too
much play between them, thus reducing the lift of the valves and
diminishing the power of the motor, it is best to replace the push
rods with new ones. The clearance between the push rods and the
valve stem should never be greater than 1/32″ nor less than 1/64″.
If the clearance is greater, the valve will open late and close
early, resulting in uneven running of the motor. If the clearance
is less than 1/64″ there is danger of the valve remaining
partially open all the time. If replacing the push rod does not
give the proper clearance, the valve should also be replaced. We
do not recommend drawing out the valve stem, as the operation
requires experience and the price of the new part does not warrant
the time and expense necessary to properly do the work.
_What about the Valve Springs?_ _Answer No. 27_
When the valves fail to seat themselves properly, there is a
possibility that the springs may be weak or broken. A weak inlet
spring would probably not affect the running of the engine, but
weakness in the exhaust valve spring causes a very uneven action,
which is difficult to locate. The symptoms area lag in the engine
due to the exhaust valve not closing instantaneously, and as
a result a certain percentage of the charge under compression
escapes, greatly diminishing the force of the explosion. Weakness
in a valve spring can usually be detected by the following method:
Remove the plate which encloses them at the side of the cylinder
and insert a screw driver between the coils of the spring while
the engine is running. If the extra tension thus produced causes
the engine to pick up speed, the spring is obviously weak and
should be replaced with a new one.
_What cause "Knocking" in the Engine?_ _Answer No. 28_
There are several causes, which may be enumerated as follows: (1)
carbon knock--which is by far the most common--resulting from
carbonizing of cylinders; (2) knock caused by a too advanced
spark; (3) connecting rod knock; (4) crank shaft main bearing
knock; (5) knock due to loose-fitting piston or broken ring; (6)
knock caused by the piston striking the cylinder head gasket.
When the engine knocks from any cause whatsoever, the matter
should be promptly investigated by an experienced mechanic and the
difficulty corrected.
_How may the different Knocks be distinguished?_ _Answer No. 29_
(1) The carbon knock is a clear, hollow sound, most noticeable in
climbing sharp grades, particularly when the engine is heated.
It is also indicated by a sharp rap immediately on advancing the
throttle. (2) Too advanced spark will be indicated by a dull knock
in the motor. (3) The connecting rod knock sounds like the distant
tapping of steel with a small hammer, and is readily distinguished
when the car is allowed to run idly down grade--or upon speeding
the car to twenty-five miles an hour, then suddenly closing the
throttle, the tapping will be very distinct. (4) The crank shaft
main bearing knock can be distinguished, when the car is going
uphill, as a dull thud. (5) The loose piston knock is heard only
upon suddenly opening the throttle, when the sound produced might
be likened to a rattle. The remedies for these knocks are treated
under their proper division.
_How is carbon removed from Combustion Chamber?_ _Answer No. 30_
First, drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the bottom
of the radiator; then disconnect the wires at the top of the motor
and also the radiator connection attached to the radiator. Remove
the 15 cap screws which hold the cylinder head in place. Take off
the cylinder head and, with a putty knife or screw driver, scrape
the carbonized matter from the cylinder head and top of pistons,
being careful to prevent the specks of carbon from getting into
the cylinders or bolt holes. In replacing the cylinder head gasket
turn the motor over so that No. 1 and No. 4 pistons are at top
center; place the gasket in position over the pistons and then put
the cylinder head in place. Be sure and draw the cylinder head
bolts down evenly (i. e., give each bolt a few turns at a time);
do not tighten them on one end before drawing them up at the other.
_How are Spark Plugs cleaned?_ _Answer No. 31_
After removing the plug from the engine the points may be cleaned
with an old tooth-brush dipped in gasoline. However, in order to
do the work thoroughly, the plug should be taken apart by securing
the large hexagon steel shell in a vise and loosening the pack nut
which holds the porcelain in place. The carbon deposits can then
be easily removed from the porcelain and shell with a small knife.
Care should be exercised not to scrape off the glazed surface of
the porcelain, otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly. The
porcelain and other parts should finally be washed in gasoline and
wiped dry with a cloth.
In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack
nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain, and
the distance between the sparking points should be 1/32″, about
the thickness of a smooth dime.
Dirty plugs usually result from an excess of oil being carried in
the crank case--or from using oil of poor quality.
_How is the Power Plant removed from the Car?_ _Answer No. 32_
(1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the
radiator hose;
(2) disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash;
(3) take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame
and take radiator off;
(4) disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest
on the frame;
(5) loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when
the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly--the
wires first having been disconnected;
(6) take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket
underneath the crank case;
(7) remove the four bolts at the universal joint;
(8) remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off
gasoline, disconnect feed pipe from carburetor;
(9) disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by unscrewing
large brass pack nut;
(10) take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the
front frame;
(11) remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame
at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the two
middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass
a "2x4," or a stout iron pipe about ten feet long, and let a man
hold each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank
handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to
the work bench for adjustment.
_Connecting Rod Bearings--how adjusted?_ _Answer No. 33_
Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the
engine, by the following method: (1) drain off the oil; (2) remove
plate on bottom of crank case--exposing connecting rods; (3) take
off first connecting rod cap, and draw-file the ends--a very
little at a time; (4) replace cap, being careful to see that file
marks correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly;
(5) test tightness of bearing by turning engine over by the
starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually determine when the
bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap
with a hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the
other bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing has been
properly fitted and tested--then tighten the cap bolts and the
work is finished.
Remember, there is a possibility of getting the bearings too
tight, and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out
quickly, unless precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the
start. It is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up
the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours
(keeping it well supplied with water and oil) before taking it out
on the road. Whenever possible these bearings should be fitted by
an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest
dealer or branch house for exchange at a price of $1.00 each
to cover the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable for any
owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting
rods or main bearings, for without a special jig in which to form
the bearings, satisfactory results will not be obtained. The
constant tapping of a loose connecting rod on the crank shaft will
eventually produce crystallization of the steel--result, broken
crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
_Crank Shaft Main Bearings--how adjusted?_ _Answer No. 34_
Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves
become worn (evidenced by a pounding in the motor) and need
replacing or adjusting, proceed as follows:
(1) After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank
case, transmission cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods,
transmission and magneto coils. Take off the three babbitted caps
and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline. Apply Prussian blue
or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, which will enable
you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a perfect bearing
surface is obtained.
(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as
possible without stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has
been properly fitted, the crank shaft can be turned with one hand.
If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one hand, the contact
between the bearing surfaces is evidently too close, and the
cap requires shimming up, one or two brass liners usually being
sufficient. In case the crank shaft moves too easily with one
hand, the shims should be removed and the steel surface of the cap
filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red
"spottings" indicate a full bearing the length of the cap. If
"spottings" do not show a true bearing, the babbitt should be
scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained.
(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center
bearing in the same manner. Repeat the operation with the front
bearing, with the other two bearings laid aside.
(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained,
clean the babbitt surface carefully and place a little lubricating
oil on the bearings, also on the crank shaft; then draw the caps
up as closely as possible--the necessary shims, of course, being
in place. Do not be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight, as
the shim under the cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces
will prevent the metal being drawn into too close contact. If oil
is not put on the bearing surfaces, the babbitt is apt to cut out
when the motor is started up before the oil in the crank case can
get into the bearing. In replacing the crank case and transmission
cover on the motor, it is advisable to use a new set of gaskets to
prevent oil leaks.
The Ford Cooling System
_How is the Engine cooled?_ _Answer No. 35_
The heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine would
soon overheat and ruin the engine, were it not cooled by some
artificial means. The Ford engine is cooled by the circulation
of water in jackets around the cylinders. The heat is extracted
from the water by its passing through the thin metal tubing of the
radiator--to which are attached scientifically worked out fins,
which assist in the rapid radiation of the heat. The fan, just
back of the radiator, sucks the air around the tubing--around
which the air is also driven by the forward movement of the
car. The belt should be inspected frequently and tightened when
necessary--not too tight, however--by means of the adjusting screw
in the fan bracket. Take up the slack till the fan starts to bind
when turned by hand.
_How does the Water circulate?_ _Answer No. 36_
The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the
Thermo-syphon system. It acts on the principle that hot water
seeks a higher level than cold water--consequently when the water
reaches a certain heat, approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit,
circulation commences and the water flows from the lower radiator
outlet pipe up through the water jackets, into the upper radiator
water tank, and down through the tubes to the lower tank, to
repeat the process.
_What are the causes of Overheating?_ _Answer No. 37_
(1) Carbonized cylinders; (2) too much driving on low speed; (3)
spark retarded too far; (4) poor ignition; (5) not enough or poor
grade oil; (6) racing motor; (7) clogged muffler; (8) improper
carburetor adjustment; (9) fan not working properly on account of
broken or slipping belt; (10) improper circulation of water due to
clogged or jammed radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.
_What should be done when the Radiator overheats?_ _Answer No. 38_
Keep the radiator full. Don't get alarmed if it boils
occasionally--especially in driving through mud and deep sand or
up long hills in extremely warm weather. Remember that the engine
develops the greatest efficiency when the water is heated nearly
to the boiling point. But if there is persistent overheating when
the motor is working under ordinary conditions--find the cause of
the trouble and remedy it. The chances are that the difficulty
lies in improper driving or carbonized cylinders. Perhaps twisting
the fan blades at a greater angle to produce more suction may
bring desired results. By reference to the proper division of this
book each of the causes which contribute to an overheated radiator
is treated and remedies suggested. No trouble can result from the
filling of a heated radiator with cold water--providing the water
system is not entirely empty--in which case the motor should be
allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced.
_How about cleaning the Radiator?_ _Answer No. 39_
The entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out
occasionally. To do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet
hose should be disconnected, and the radiator flushed out by
allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary pressure,
from whence it will flow down through the tubes and out at the
drain cock and hose. The water jackets can be flushed out in the
same manner. Simply allow the water to enter into the cylinder
head connection and to flow through the water jackets and out at
the side inlet connection.
[Illustration: The Thermo-Syphon Cooling System, showing course
of water through water passages. (Cut No. 6)]
_Will the Radiator freeze in winter?_ _Answer No. 40_
Yes, unless an anti-freezing solution is used in the circulating
system you are bound to experience trouble. As the circulation
does not commence until the water becomes heated, it is apt to
freeze at low temperature before it commences to circulate. In
case any of the radiator tubes happen to be plugged or jammed they
are bound to freeze and burst open if the driver undertakes to get
along without using a non-freezing solution. Wood or denatured
alcohol can be used to good advantage. The following table gives
the freezing points of solutions containing different percentages
of alcohol:
20% solution freezes at 15 degrees above zero.
30% solution freezes at 8 degrees below zero,
50% solution freezes at 34 degrees below zero.
A solution composed of 60% water, 10% glycerine and 30% alcohol is
commonly used, its freezing point being about 8 degrees below zero.
On account of evaporation fresh alcohol must be added frequently
in order to maintain the proper solution.
_How are leaks and jams in the Radiator repaired?_ _Answer No. 41_
A small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying brown soap or
white lead--but the repair should be made permanent with solder as
soon as possible. A jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair.
While the stopping of one tube does not seriously interfere
with the circulation, it is bound to cause trouble sooner or
later--and the tube will freeze in cold weather. Cut the tube an
inch above and below the jam and insert a new piece, soldering the
connections. If the entire radiator is badly jammed or broken it
would probably be advisable to install a new one.
[Illustration: This cut illustrates the principle of Ford
Carburetion. (Cut No. 7)]
The Gasoline System
_The Carburetor--how does it work?_ _Answer No. 42_
The carburetor is of the automatic float feed type, having but
one adjustment--the gasoline needle valve. The cross-section
diagram of carburetor on page 20 shows how the gasoline enters the
carburetor, is vaporized by a current of air and passes through
the inlet pipe to the engine in the form of an explosive mixture.
The gasoline, entering the bowl of the carburetor, gradually
raises the float to a point where the inlet needle is forced
upwards into its seat, thus cutting off the flow of gasoline. As
the gasoline in the bowl recedes, the float lowers, allowing the
needle to drop from its seat and the flow of gasoline is resumed.
It is plain to see that a constant level of gasoline is maintained
in the carburetor by the automatic action of float and needle.
The quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture is governed by
the needle valve (see Answer No. 45). The volume of gas mixture
entering the intake pipe is controlled by opening and closing the
throttle, according to the speed desired by the driver.
_Why is Carburetor adjustment placed on the dash?_ _Answer No. 43_
For the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor.
After the new car has become thoroughly worked in, the driver
should observe the angle of the carburetor adjusting rod at
which the engine runs most satisfactorily. In cold weather it
will probably be found necessary to turn the dash adjustment
one-quarter turn to the left, particularly in starting a cold
engine. As gasoline vaporizes readily in warm weather, the driver
will find it economical to reduce the quantity of gasoline in the
mixture by turning the carburetor adjustment to the right as far
as possible without reducing speed. This is particularly true when
taking long drives where conditions permit a fair rate of speed
being maintained, and accounts for the excellent gasoline mileage
obtained by good drivers.
_What is meant by a "lean" and a "rich" Mixture?_ _Answer No. 44_
A lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline. A rich
mixture has too much gasoline and not enough air. A rich mixture
will not only quickly cover the cylinders, pistons and valves with
carbon, but will tend to overheat the cylinders, and is likewise
wasteful of the fuel. It will often choke the engine and cause
misfiring at slow speeds, although at high speeds the machine will
run perfectly. The mixture should be kept as lean as possible
without the sacrifice of any of the power of the motor. A lean
mixture will often result in backfiring through the carburetor,
for the reason that the gas burns slowly in the cylinder, and is
still burning when the inlet valve opens again, which causes the
gas in the intake to ignite. A rich mixture is shown by heavy,
black exhaust smoke with a disagreeable smell. Proper mixture will
cause very little smoke or odor.
_How is the Carburetor adjusted?_ _Answer No. 45_
The usual method of regulating the carburetor is to start the
motor, advancing the throttle lever to about the sixth notch,
with the spark retarded to about the fourth notch. The flow of
gasoline should now be cut off by screwing the needle valve down
to the right until the engine begins to misfire, then gradually
increase the gasoline feed by opening the needle valve until the
motor picks up and reaches its highest speed and no trace of black
smoke comes from the exhaust. Whenever it is necessary to turn the
adjusting needle down more than a quarter turn below its normal
position, the lock nut on top of the carburetor at the point
through which needle passes should first be loosened, as otherwise
it is impossible to tell when the needle is turned down in its
seat too far. Turning the needle down too tightly will result
in its becoming grooved and the seat enlarged. When these parts
are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of the
carburetor. Having determined the point where the motor runs at
its maximum speed, the needle valve lock nut should be tightened
to prevent the adjustment being disturbed. For average running, a
lean mixture will give better results than a rich one.
_Why does water clog the Carburetor?_ _Answer No. 46_
The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank, even
in small amounts, will prevent easy starting and the motor will
misfire and stop. As water is heavier than gasoline it settles
to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment bulb along with
other foreign matter. As it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline
absolutely free from impurities, especially water, it is advisable
to frequently drain the sediment bulb under the gasoline tank.
During cold weather the water which accumulates in the sediment
bulb is likely to freeze and prevent the flow of gasoline through
the pipe leading to the carburetor. Should anything of this kind
happen it is possible to open the gasoline line by wrapping a
cloth around the sediment bulb and keeping it saturated with hot
water for a short time. Then the water should be drained off. In
event the water gets down into the carburetor and freezes, the
same treatment may be applied.
_What makes the Carburetor leak?_ _Answer No. 47_
The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed
pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle raising and
lowering in its seat. Should any particle of dirt become lodged
in the seat, which prevents the needle from closing, the gasoline
will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the
ground.
_When there is dirt in the Carburetor--what?_ _Answer No. 48_
The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening,
a minute particle of grit or other foreign matter will clog up the
orifice, and result: motor will begin to misfire and slow down as
soon as it has attained any considerable speed. This is accounted
for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction will
draw the particles of dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening
the valve needle half a turn and giving the throttle lever two
or three quick pulls the dirt or sediment will often be drawn
through, when the needle may be turned back to its original place.
If this does not accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be
drained.
_If Engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded--what?_
_Answer No. 49_
If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded unscrew
the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine
idles at suitable speed. If the motor chokes and stops when
throttle is fully retarded the adjusting screw should be screwed
in until it strikes the boss, preventing the throttle from closing
too far. When proper adjustment has been made, tighten lock-screw
so that adjustment will not be disturbed.
_What is the purpose of the Hot Air Pipe?_ _Answer No. 50_
It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts it
to the carburetor--where the heat facilitates the vaporizing of
the gasoline. It is usually advisable to remove this pipe in the
hot season--but it is an absolutely necessary feature during cold
weather.
_What is the purpose of the Cork Float?_ _Answer No. 51_
It automatically controls the flow of the gasoline into the
carburetor. If it floats too low, starting will be difficult; if
too high, the carburetor will flood and leak. A cork float which
has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a new one
or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of coats of liquid
shellac to make it waterproof.
_Should Priming Rod be used in starting when Motor is warm?_
_Answer No. 52_