UP TO THE HEIGHTS OF DAPSANG
Heavy clouds and piercingly cold wind increased the difficulty of our
march on December 14 up the valley. We saw two bales of goods, sewed up
in linen and with the stamp of a Turkestan firm, lying on the ground, as
though they had fallen from a dying horse, the carcase of which we had
passed. Higher up two more. They contained silken materials from Khotan.
So far the caravans come with failing strength after excessive exertions
on the pass. They are like ships which must throw their cargo overboard
when they begin to sink. At Köteklik also we found passable grass and
firewood. Gulam is a capital cook; he prepares me the most delicate
cutlets and rissoles, and for a change gives me chickens and eggs.
On the 15th there is little water in the valley; it runs under rubbish,
but farther up the river is again fresh and clear. We frequently pass
the remains of unfortunate caravans--dead horses, bales of goods, and
pack-saddles from which the hay has been removed to save the life of a
dying horse. We travel west-north-westwards, and therefore ever farther
from our goal. But at length we come to a valley which will lead us in
the right direction. We leave the Sasser valley to the left and enter a
valley portal full of treacherous ice, often as thin as skin. We wait
till our scouts have tried the ice, which they declare to be impassable.
Tubges, however, finds another, longer way, over steep hills, and at
their foot we pitch our camp.
Next morning we went over a steep spur of porphyry to reach a better
place on the frozen river which was to afford us an easterly passage up
to Murgu. We crossed again and again the strip of ice, which was first
strewn with sand that the horses might not break their legs. As usual,
two scouts went in advance. One of them came back and called to us from
a distance that a fallen rock closed up the valley. On reaching the spot
I found that a landslip had lately taken place. The blocks of porphyry
barring the channel were as big as houses, and between them the river
formed deep basins covered with a thin coat of ice. We had therefore to
turn back and retrace our steps all the way down to camp No. 279, over
the terrible rock, which on this side was so steep that each animal had
to be shoved up separately, and the men had to look out for themselves
when a pack got loose and rolled down the acclivity. Then we went some
distance up the Sasser valley. A strong icy wind blew in our faces.
Beside a wall of rock the dogs put up a hare which took refuge in a
hole, but Kunchuk pulled him out again and he was condemned to be eaten.
Our camp this time was in an almost barren place, and after all the
fording of the river during the day icicles clinked on the flanks of our
wearied animals.
It is evening again. The mountain spurs project, dark and rugged, into
the valley like huge sarcophagi, and on them rest moon-lighted
snowfields like shrouds. The Ladakis sing no more; their ditties are
frozen on their lips. It is awfully quiet. The kitchen fire flickers
with yellowish-red tongues in the white moonshine. One can almost hear
the sound of the frost outside.
[Illustration: 299. PANORAMA FROM CAMP 422, BONGBA.]
[Illustration: 300. PANORAMA FROM CAMP 277, SHYOK VALLEY.
Sketches by the Author.]
After Gulam has brought in the last brazier I undress myself, put on my
large woollen dressing-gown, set myself a while right over the fire to
get a little heat into my body before I creep into my lair of fur, and
smile to hear the yellow dog, who is lying outside, and barks and snarls
at the increasing cold in the angriest and most comical tones. No wonder
he is enraged, for the thermometer falls in the night to -12.8°. Then I
hear a singular squeaking in Gulam's tent. We had already anticipated a
happy event, and now I inquired whether there was an addition to the
Puppy family. Four small puppies had again come into the world. They
had waited for the very coldest night we had yet experienced. Gulam had
contrived a cage of frieze rugs in which Puppy lay, licking her young
ones. Two of the tiny animals were of the female, two of the male sex;
the former were drowned, for we thought that the others would grow
stronger if they monopolized all the milk and heat that would otherwise
have been divided among four. I sat by the hutch and studied the
interesting group till I was so stiff with cold that I could hardly walk
back to my tent. Next morning the tiny curs were going on splendidly;
one of them whined in quite the orthodox fashion, and no doubt thought
what a grim cold country fate had launched him into. We determined to
take good care of them, for they would be pleasant companions for me. Up
here they would at any rate be immune from the sickness which had
carried off their elder sisters. Kunchuk had to carry them against his
bare skin to keep them warm. Half-way Mamma Puppy was allowed to occupy
herself for a while with her little ones, though these did not seem
quite to understand the milk business.
We had a bad march on December 17. No shouts of encouragement were
heard, but the caravan moved on slowly and apathetically. Within half an
hour our feet were benumbed and lost all feeling. I wound the ends of my
_bashlik_ like a visor several times round my face up to the eyes, but
the breath turned it into a thick crust of ice which froze to my
moustache and beard, which I had allowed to grow since leaving Gartok to
suit my intended Mohammedan disguise. All the men put on their furs.
Dust and soil flew about, and our faces had a singular appearance.
At a place where a Yarkand caravan was encamped, we turned to the right
up a very narrow valley, in which the floor, covered with bright
milky-white ice, looked like a marble pavement between the rocky walls.
Fortunately the Yarkand men had strewn sand over the ice, but still it
did not prevent several of our animals from falling, so that they had to
be loaded again.
When we at length camped in Long the temperature was at zero even at
three o'clock. A second large Yarkand caravan, on the homeward journey,
was halting here. The leaders asked us to travel with them over the
Karakorum, but I refused, with the excuse that we could make only short
day's marches. Observation by any who might tell the Chinese in Yarkand
that I had again passed over into Tibet was exactly what I must avoid
above everything.
Here lay a poor man, both of whose feet had been frost-bitten on the
Karakorum, so that the flesh and toes actually fell off. He crawled up
to our camp and wept over his disastrous fate. He had been engaged with
the Yarkand caravan we had met first, but as he had become incapable of
work owing to his wounds, the barbarous merchant had dismissed him in
the midst of the wilds and left him behind. In such a case it is hard to
know what to do. We could not cure him, and to take him with us or give
up a part of the caravan for him was out of the question. He said
himself that he would crawl to Shyok, but how was he to get across the
river? I let him warm himself at our fire, drink tea and eat, and on the
18th, when we went on after 56½° of frost in the night, I gave him
_tsamba_ for several days, matches, and a sum of money which would
enable him to hire a horse from a caravan travelling to Shyok.
This day's march took us eastwards to a place called Bulak (the spring);
it should properly have been called Guristan (the graveyard), for here
lay at least twenty dead horses. During a ride of two hours I had
counted sixty-three carcases of horses; it is wonderful that trade on
this caravan route, the highest in the world, can be profitable.
From there the route ran up the narrow fissured Murgu valley, at first
up and down over hills, where numbers of dead horses, which had once
been strong and fat, showed us the way. Then we descended a break-neck
path into the deep valley, where spring water at the bottom formed
cracked domes of ice. Then on the slopes of the left flank we climbed
again up a zigzag path; the snow became deeper and was piled up,
especially on the path, so smooth that if the horses had made a false
step we should have been lost beyond recovery. The landscape was
magnificent, but it could not be properly enjoyed when the temperature
about one o'clock was only 0.3°. And then again we went down headlong to
the valley bottom, where we passed over a natural bridge of rock
improved by the hand of man. Our direction had been east, but now we
diverged more and more to the north and north-west.
The snow becomes deeper, the sun sinks, the shadows creep up the
reddish-yellow hills, the wind is stronger, and one thinks: If this
lasts much longer I shall freeze. At last we halt at the foot of a
terrace on the right side of the valley, where the sheep are driven into
a cave to keep them warm in the night. I slip down from the saddle with
all my limbs numbed, and long for a fire. Not a trace of organic life
was to be seen at camp No. 283. The horses and mules were tethered so
that they stood in a close pack.
At this unlucky camp I made the first discovery on this new journey
through Tibet. Abdul Kerim came to me at the fire and said:
"Sahib, we have barley for eight to ten days more; but in that time we
shall reach Shahidulla, where we can get everything."
"Eight to ten days! Are you mad? Did you not obey my orders? Did I not
tell you expressly to take barley for 2½ months?"
"I brought a supply with me which was enough for the journey to Khotan."
"Did I not tell you that I was not going to Khotan by the ordinary
route, but by roundabout ways which would demand at least two months?"
"Yes, Sahib, I have acted wrongly," answered the old man, and began to
sob. Abdul Kerim was an honest man, but he was stupid, and he had not
the great experience of Muhamed Isa.
"You are caravan bashi, and the duty of a caravan leader is to see that
there is sufficient provender for the journey. When the ten days are
over, our animals will starve. What do you mean to do then?"
"Sahib, send me with some animals to Shahidulla. I can be back again in
a fortnight."
"You know that everything that happens in Shahidulla is reported to the
Amban of Khotan. The Chinese must know nothing of our intentions."
My first notion was to dismiss Abdul Kerim at once and to write to the
Hajji Nazer Shah for more provender, which might be brought up on hired
animals. But what would they think in western Tibet and Ladak if I sent
for more provender from Leh when I was barely eight days' journey from
Shahidulla, which lies on the direct road to Khotan? My whole plan would
be betrayed and must fail. I should be stopped by the first nomads,
perhaps by the English whom I had so happily escaped hitherto. It was
only necessary to forbid the natives to supply me with provisions and
baggage animals. And if I procured all we wanted in Shahidulla, the
Amban of Khotan would send word to Kashgar, whence a telegraph line runs
through Asia to Pekin, where His Excellency Na Tang proved so absolutely
immovable when the Swedish Minister Wallenberg had given himself so much
trouble to obtain for me permission for a new journey through Tibet. Up
here in this desolate valley my position was strong. We had sneaked
quietly and cautiously through British territory without exciting
suspicion. But as soon as we came into contact with the outer world we
should be caught.
I sat in my tent all the evening, considering the matter from all sides,
and measured the distances on my map with compasses. We were about 100
miles from my camp No. 8 of the preceding year, where the grass was so
good. So far we could travel without the least difficulty. But beyond we
had 430 miles more, to the district on the Tong-tso. However, before we
came there we must meet with nomads and grazing land. The horses,
indeed, would be lost, but the Tibetan mules were, so Gulam Razul said,
accustomed to shift for themselves, and they were not given barley. The
first step was to reach the free open Chang-tang and get out of this
frightful mousetrap, the Shyok valley, which was always taking us
further north-north-west. Even if we had to sacrifice everything and
creep on all fours to the nearest tent, I would not give in: I would
not depart a hair's breadth from the original plan.
Night came with a clear sky, twinkling stars and sharp frost; by nine
o'clock the temperature was down to -20.4°. The animals stood quietly
crowded together to keep themselves warm. When I awoke occasionally I
did not hear them, and they might have vanished. The minimum was reached
at -31.2°. When I was awakened, Kutus had been out on the prowl into a
broad valley, coming in from the east, and had found a road which, as
far as he could see, was excellent. We had still two days' journey from
camp No. 283 to the dreaded Karakorum pass, which I wished to avoid. If
we ascended the side valley eastwards, we should soon arrive at the main
crest of the Karakorum range and be spared two days' journey. I resolved
to try it.
So we travelled on December 20 to the east-north-east over crunching
snow. The valley looked very promising, especially as old horse tracks
could be seen in some places. In the middle of the valley was the bed of
a brook covered over with smooth, treacherous ice, but elsewhere there
was nothing but detritus. After we had passed a hill thickly overgrown
with _burtse_ tufts, all vegetation ceased. At one o'clock the
temperature was -5.8°. My beard was white with rime, my face-cloth
turned into a mass of ice, and all the animals were white. For hours we
slowly mounted upwards. In some places the valley was so contracted that
it was only 2 yards broad. The best of the day was over when the caravan
suddenly came to a halt. All was quiet in the front, and I waited with
Kutus for whatever was to happen.
After a time came Abdul Kerim, much cast down, with the news that the
valley was impassable at two places. I went to look. The first barrier
of rocks might be forced, but the second was worse. We could certainly
have dragged the baggage over the ice between and under the blocks, but
there was no passage for the animals. Should we try to make a road along
which the animals could be helped over the blocks by the united strength
of the men? Yes; but first men must be sent up to find out whether
there were more of such barriers to cross. When they came back with the
news that the way was still worse above, I gave orders to pitch the
camp, as the shades of evening were falling.
Good heavens, what a camp! Not a blade of grass, not a drop of water!
Again we sat in a mousetrap between steep mountain walls, where, at any
moment, devastating blocks might be detached from the sides by the
frost. The horses scraped about in the snow looking for grass. During
the night they roamed about, and stumbled over the tent ropes. The
thermometer fell to -30.6°. One puppy lost his way, got outside, and
came of his own accord into my tent; fortunately for him I was awakened
by his whining, and gave him shelter in my bed, where he was warm and
comfortable.
A frosty morning! we must take care not to touch metal, for it burns
like fire. A mule made his way into my tent and looked for something
edible in my washing-basin. To his great astonishment it stuck to his
nose, and he took it a few steps with him. The hungry animals had
consumed two empty sacks and six ropes during the night, and played the
mischief with one another's tails. In winter, life up here is a
desperate struggle with the frost.
The orders for the day were to encamp in a place where there were stalks
of _yapchan_ and _burtse_, and remain there all the next day. I set out
at a temperature of -23.8° and found the camp all ready on the right
side of the valley. The animals were immediately sent up the slopes, and
there grazed with a good appetite on the dry frozen stalks. During the
day of rest, pieces of ice were hewn out of the brook and melted in the
two large kettles of the men. Horses and mules were then able to drink
their fill.
In the night a most welcome change took place in the weather, the whole
sky was overcast, and the thermometer fell only to 1°; it felt quite
warm in the morning. Some mules had stampeded, but Lobsang found them
after a diligent search. I set out with Kutus soon after the caravan. We
had not gone far when we saw Muhamed Isa's white Shigatse horse lying
frozen stiff in the snow. He had been in a wretched state for some
days, and the last hardships had been too much for him. Worn-out and
emaciated he really needed a long, long rest.
After a while we passed the valley junction and the unlucky camp No.
283, and were again on the great caravan route, the road of dead horses.
Four lay in a ravine quite close together, as though they did not wish
to part even in death. A large dapple-grey showed no change, but another
horse looked as if it were stuffed, and a third, with its outstretched
legs, resembled an overturned gymnasium horse. Some were nearly covered
with snow, and others had fallen in a curious cramped position, but most
of them lay as though death had surprised them when they were composing
themselves to rest after violent exertion. Nearly all were hollow: the
hide was stretched over the backbone and ribs, and they looked intact
from the back, but on the other side it could be seen that they were
only empty, dry skeletons, hard as iron, which rattled when the yellow
dog, who had nothing else to eat on the way, pulled them about. The dogs
barked at the first carcases, but soon they became familiar with the
sight of them. What sufferings and what desperate struggles for life
these dreary mountains must have witnessed in the course of time! Lying
awake at night one fancies one hears the sighs of worn-out pack animals
and their laboured breathing as they patiently go towards their end, and
sees an endless parade of veterans condemned to die who can endure no
more in the service of cruel man. When the dogs bark outside in the
silent night they seem to bark at ghosts and apparitions who try with
hesitating steps to make their way out of the snowfields that hold them
fast, and intervene between them and the juicy meadows of Ladak. If any
road in the world deserves the name "Via dolorosa," it is the caravan
road over the Karakorum pass connecting Eastern Turkestan with India.
Like an enormous bridge of sighs it spans with its airy arches the
highest mountain-land of Asia and of the world.
Higher and higher our slow train ascends the fissured valley where here
and there small glacier tongues peep out between the steep crags.
Frequently old camping-places are seen with ripped-up pack-saddles.
Hurricanes from the south prevail here; fine red dust from weathered
sandstone flies like clouds of blood through the valley and colours the
snowfields red. The valley shrinks to a hollow way where a somewhat more
sheltered spot bears the name "Daulet Bek ulldi" (where Daulet Bek
died). Who was he? No one knows; but the name has remained. Probably an
ordinary trader from Khotan or Yarkand, or a pilgrim who died on his
wanderings, and therefore found the doors of paradise wide open. For
over the Karakorum pass runs the main pilgrim route from Eastern
Turkestan to Mecca.
The valley becomes ever smaller--a mere corridor between walls of red
conglomerate. This is the Kizil-unkur, or the Red Hole, an appropriate
name. Here the caravan has pitched its camp. Not a sign of organic life.
The animals stand in a group, and the mules gnaw at the frozen dung of
former visitors. From this hole the way rises up to the Dapsang plateau,
where a snowstorm is now raging, and even in the valley flakes of snow
dance and whirl in the air. In the twilight Tundup Sonam comes up with
only twelve sheep; the others have been frozen to death on the way.
Night falls threatening and awful on the everlasting snow. Everything up
here is so dreary and cold (16,824 feet); there is nothing living far
and wide, and yet the yellow dog fills the ravine with his barking.
The men set up the tents near together, and a very scanty fire burned
among them, for we had to be economical with the firewood from Köteklik.
The Mohammedans started a low charming song in rising and falling tones,
and now and then a strong voice intoned a hollow "Allahu ekber." When
Gulam came with the brazier I asked him what it meant, and he said that
it was a _namas_ or hymn of prayer to Allah, that the Most High might
protect us in the morning from the snowstorm. For if a caravan is caught
in a snowstorm on the heights of Dapsang it is lost.
I often heard this melodious hymn again in days of hardship, and it
always affected me painfully. Not as the reproachful warning clang of
church bells ringing for service, when I pass a church door without
going in, but because the men sang the hymn only when they were out of
spirits and considered our position desperate. It seemed as though they
would remind me that defeat awaited me, and that this time I had aimed
too high.